I invented a better quick clamp?

[@dirk-janfaber]

At 2:43 the headphones already hanging before the print was done. Amazing. :)

[@martijnvdijk]

I saw the same, was about to type it but one is faster! Other than that, a great video as always!!

[@misan2006]

A glitch in the matrix!

[@JeremyDWilliamsOfficial]

Continuity gets you every time lol. Doesn't take away from a really well put together video.

[@Stubones999]

it's a glitch in the matrix

[@AakeTraak]

How about a nail?

[@JorgTheElder]

In Fusion you can enter your dimensions as SideHeight=12mm and they will automatically be added as parameters, and you modify them from Modify -> Change Parameters without even opening the sketch. And they can reference other parameters, so you could use: Lenth=SideHeight*2. You can also pre-create the parameters the same way you modify them.

[@Chris-oj7ro]

Solid tip! I love the little time saving features in F30!

[@AmirKhan-qx2lr]

thanks for sharing this absolutely amazing tip

[@BenNawrath]

That’s a great tip. Inventor has similar functions.

[@kylek29]

There used to be a technical difference between inline and parameter box derived user params, but that verbiage isn't present on the Fusion site anymore. So I'm guessing it was all rolled into one at some point in the last few years. For those unaware, the parametrics also have access to math functions and if/else and/or.

[@dylandreisbach1986]

You can also do this in Onshape. Select parameters in the same menu you select extrude and other options that aren’t in the sketch options. You add the name and dimension, make sure the parameter is high in the layer list because it won’t apply if it’s after your sketch. Then just name the dimensions whatever you names them with a “#” before the name.

[@JonathanTrevatt]

For the angled clamp attachment, if you print it as two parts that click together with a ball joint, then it can rotated to any angle, and you won't need additional fixtures like nuts and bolts to act as a hinge.

[@Otto_Irving]

Really well done video explaining 3D printing for woodworkers. Might be the first I've ever seen someone *explain it well* rather than just doing it and moving on with the "woodworking" part. The stuff that's out there, at the cheap $1-2 cost in filament only, is mind boggling. I've got a router sled for my trim router that rides along my track saw's guide rails. Would easily run me $25-200 online for a Festool or similar guide, and 3D printing just made that entirely feasible. In about an hour of printing time. I'm researching 3D printers now instead of always asking a friend with one to print for me. Whole new world of creativity, that'll help my real passion - woodworking. Thanks for the great intro to 3D printing for woodworkers!

[@jimrosson6702]

You should check out Bamboo lab printers. They are on sale right now for their anniversary.

[@technicallyreal]

When you are adding the pause in the slicer, I believe you actually want to choose the layer where you see the hole being covered, as the pause happens at the beginning of that layer.

[@mikecrane2782]

You are correct, as I found out using this in Orca slicer... it's obviously the same as Bambu Studio and the vertical slider shows the end of the layer not the beginning as you say, but if you move the horizontal slider to the left you will see the start of the fill over layer, so confirms your understanding. .

[@burnbabybyrne1]

Pausing at layer 19 works well for me.

[@JesperMakes]

I had to watch this video twice because the VO was really good, but then there were all sorts of stuff going on in the background too 😀

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Haha I had to hide a certain old sponsor of mine :)

[@CrudelyMade]

for the clamp swivel, the hinge seems like a weak point that is taking all the pressure from the clamping force. you might consider having a crescent shape nested in a crescent shape. this should handle much more clamping pressure, and still swivel to the required position. it might even be more stable, as you shift the pivot point from the outside to inside the pivot radius. it would function similar to the individual pieces of the fractal vice.

[@michaelrobinson9643]

I printed wedges to use with my clamps for the angles I needed. Your design is a nice revision of the idea making it integral to the clamp - nicely done and so much more versatile!

[@nicolaslab1814]

at 6:32, 3x + 1, The Collatz conjecture is a well-known unsolved problem in mathematics that involves sequences of integers. Starting with any positive integer, the next term is determined as follows: if the current term is even, divide it by two; if it is odd, multiply it by three and add one. The conjecture proposes that this process will always eventually reach the number 1, regardless of the starting integer. While it has been verified for all integers up to 2.95 * 10^20, a general proof remains elusive.

[@gfixler]

Another trick for the magnets is to put a Sharpie (or whatever permanent marker you have) dot on one face, then pop it off and do the next, so you mark the same side of every magnet. In the end, you'll have marked all of one pole, and you can just alternate which magnets show the dot, without having to drop them on and separate them over and over on the print.

[@samwoodrow4871]

"It works!"... Had to laugh at how excited you were to get it to work first time 🤣

[@TheSwedishMaker]

😍

[@HerrNagel13]

You can also print a magnet seperator. Your hands will be thankful.

[@davidmeyer9204]

Thank you for sharing. I just got my 3D printer, not even out of the box yet. You have given me some inspiration to make some thing for the shop that I had not thought of Thanks Again Sir!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Hey! Thank you! Appreciate it

[@davidmeyer9204]

@@TheSwedishMaker Drew at Wittworks turned me onto your channel awhile back. It is also his fault that I got a 3D printer. I always like your videos but will be paying more attention now.

[@BobMuir100]

Brilliant! Amazing! Wonderful! You are my favourite creator for more reasons than I can articulate! Thank you Bob England

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks a lot Bob! I truly appreciate it.

[@stumcconnel]

That insert system for the corner rounding jigs is smart, gonna have to borrow that one! For the fiddly magnets in the dust collector connector thingy, just use the whole stack of magnets to push each one in, then slide / shear the stack off, makes them much easier to handle! Do 4 'corners' first, then flip the stack of magnets over and do the remaining 4 'corners' in the gaps :)

[@bridevalley]

I've had my 3D printer for a few years and also enjoy the design process as you seem to do. We subsequently bought an old house so I'm exploring the applications I can use 3D printed parts for. I think the most useful thing I've produced so far is a bunch of pipe supports for hot and cold water supply to the bathroom and bigger ones to secure the 100mm soil pipes for a new WC. This has saved us a lot of euros. The most complicated thing I've come up with so far is a jig or tool that measures the position of the metal bars that are fixed across the window apertures on the outside of the house on which we want to hang flower boxes. I designed the box in Fusion having measured one window only to find that the bar is positioned slightly differently at each window. So the jig measures the position of the bar relative to the window cill, the slope of the cill and how far the edge of the cill projects away from the house (all these dimensions vary from window to window) and I redesigned the flower box parametrically so that I can feed the dimensions in to the design for a perfect fit each time. Designing in Fusion is one of my favourite hobbies! Thanks for making this video. It really resonated with me!

[@ehRalph]

Have never used a 3D printer, but I can see how useful and functional they are. What a game changer. I expect the software side of this is pretty intuitive once you get familiar with it.

[@greenthumbnz]

The right click on layer height for pausing. Game changer thank you!!

[@funfreq9282]

Nice idea and well made and executed! The only downside I can see is if your using the hose for multiple machines at different locations in the shop you run the risk of pulling the coupler apart, a twist lock solution would be much more secure.

[@paulroussell]

Excellent stuff! Small suggestion: In the Print Instructions RTF file that you supply with the STL file for the magnetic hose adapter it says "Pause after 19th layer": That depends on your choice of layer height. it is fie if you are printing at 0.2mm layer height.

[@JesperMakes]

So many gold nuggets in this video Pierre. I'll get my printer going!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks! Yes, get it printing :)

[@802Garage]

Yep all of this is exactly why I have a 3D printer, hahaha. One of the first fully custom prints I did was a headphones hanger. Also customized a car phone holder and upcoming I have vise jaws, tool storage, and various other similar projects.

[@christyler1647]

The magnetic coupler for your dust collector is awesome!

[@jojailic]

3D printing is great. I got makita makpac box with one clamp broken, quick search, slice and 45min later I got new clamp from my ender 3 v3 se.

[@michaelrobinson9643]

An issue with magnets is the non linear loss on hold power with distance. I use them for most of my coffee accessories and have been hamstrung a few times by magnets not strong enough. I ended up finding a place to buy thin magnets cheaper than equivalent thick ones so I stack them in all of my builds now.

[@utahwaxwing]

I recommend the cross-hatch infill in Bambu slicer because it doesn't make the head drag across cooled hard plastic. Don't use grid.

[@JasonGrissom]

🙀 Great video Pierre! 3D printing in the workshop is a game changer.

[@MichaelTavel]

Secret message!🐈 Love the clamp attachments! I'll try printing the clamping face out of 100% infill TPU and see how that turns out.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Good call! And thanks!

[@andreasrothmann2634]

I already have two 3D printers and you are absolutely right: They are great tools.

[@LeeroyReading]

Thanks for the dust connecter file, works great. Now i just need to convince you to make a 6" version available as well, i can guarantee at least one sale!

[@brandb16]

You should pause the print ON the layer it covers the hole, especially if the height of the hole has a tight tolerance to the magnet. Whenever you add a special action to a layer like "Pause" or "Change Filament", it performs that action right before it begins printing that layer.

[@Zimbob2424]

I know the feeling, takes less time to design somethings then to find them on printables or where ever. 3d printing is not that difficult, I know running a cnc machine is a lot more difficult since you are removing material. but I love both. Love the clamp addon, technically you could use those for regular clamping since they swivel, they should just conform to a square object. I've been wanting to print a new "foot" for one of my clamps since it's missing one, perhaps I'll try one of those. Thanks for the video

[@Andreas.Pfisterer]

Hello, nice video. With your vacuum cleaner adapter you said that if it breaks, just print it again. We all know the problem with printed pipes or rods that break because the layers are the weak point. Since I need 90% of my printed parts as functional parts, mainly in technical model making, I started gluing in steel or brass rods with a diameter of 1mm or less a long time ago. To do this, in the case of an adapter like this, I create a hole across the layers and rotate it as a pattern so that there are 3 or 4 holes. I then glue the steel wires in there and have a composite material, similar to reinforced concrete. But be careful, if your wire is 1mm, the hole must be about 1.2mm, depending on the printer, as these holes generally print smaller. It's been working for me for years and in Germany you can get 1m long steel or brass wires from 0.5mm to 5mm, and there are also brass and aluminum tubes from 3mm so you can make almost anything.

[@krissebesta]

This is an excellent idea as I was pondering how to make the layer adhesion better and came across your comment a minute later. This could be a video just on this one idea. Thanks for sharing your idea. I'll be using it on many of my 3D projects. Cheers!

[@jimrosson6702]

Great video I’ve been really thinking about getting a 3D printer and with Bamboo labs having their printers on sale right now makes it very tempting I’m just a little scared because I have absolutely no experience in 3D printing at all. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge

[@NakedGeep]

For the magnets, go through the stack and put a dot of sharpie/permanent marker on the north side. Then you’ll have a visual indicator when you’re putting them in the print (dot vs no dot). As the magnets are fully covered by the print, the dots won’t be visible in the final product

[@richardhanck972]

One fairly cheap item that isn't really necessary, but can help in a pinch is a magnetic polarity detector. Sure, you can just put a magnet on the piece, but if you need to _record_ the polarity for whatever reason, having one is great. This allows you to set a standard for a piece, determine the correct orientation, and place the magnet without having to dig out an exemplar or have a jig.

[@burnbabybyrne1]

Love these ideas and designs. I bought your Fusion and print files for the magnetic hose connectors. They print brilliantly and very quickly on the X1C. I’ll modify the fitting for attachment to 100mm and 63mm tool connectors (without the need for a short piece of flexi ducting). Thanks for the design.

[@burnbabybyrne1]

kzbin.infofW8NirjnqSM?si=TJiH8aPkSJq0yuLL

[@tereg5]

I'm sold! I bought the bambu lab mini because I've tried to use Fushion 360 before for designing builds and it was HARD!!! So I took the leap with the mini and was mind blown. I guess that's how my parents felt with computers became mainstream. Somehow this is easier than that learning curve if you stick to other people's prints. As a maker this is saving me hundreds of $$. Thanks!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

That is a really good printer indeed!

[@timerwin1565]

I like how you said it's going to be about 48 minutes of printing and you'll wait it out but you already had to print a piece on the wall with your headphones on it :)

[@MrBigMalT]

I’m so with you on this! I’m pretty new to 3D printing, and for me the joy is in using Fusion 360 to design something I need, then seeing it come to life! Like you I designed a headphone holder, in my case so I could hang them on the side of my Yamaha keyboard 😃😃

[@RexAnothership]

Nice tips. Thanks! Workshop without 3D printer is handicapped. Love the dust collector magnetic couplings. Going to use that idea.

[@DIYTechRepairs]

I 3d print alot. mostly stuff for helping my life and for storage. I mostly do PLA but also other. PLA you can get from 8-9USD/kilo actually with good quality today!. And the Bambu printers rock. I mainly run the x1 series

[@peterszutu555]

You’ve inspired me to try 3D printing. I borrowed a 3D printer from my brother-in-law to experiment. It’s a cheap printer and the print platform is quite dirty. Will try propyl alcohol to clean it up.

[@3s-Woodworking]

Clamp improvements is great. Also could alter it for round shapes.

[@anb2456]

thank you very much for sharing your passion for 3D printing. the sky's the limit for individual makers! it has started a revolution of home innovation. Dyson started his billion dollar company from his home workshop; why can't all makers do the same?

[@fredgollatz3429]

Won me as a subscriber! Love that you use a 3D printer the way it should be used!

[@ziocrielo6148]

btw petg is actually pretty strong (similar to abs) if printed at higher temps, up to 260c. 240 and 250 work pretty well too.

[@schoktra]

Here's an idea for that quick clamp part, why not make the swiveling part match the opening the orange part slides onto, so then you can actually take the rubber feet from the quick clamp and slide onto that for extra grip just in case. It should still be possible in most if not all CAD software to tie the two together so once you make the adjustments for the opening it would resize the actual swiveling foot as well.

[@McCraeMoto1]

Grate show. I will be buying the Bambu labs P1S. I admire your life values.

[@SteveBellCreates]

Great use of the 3D printer in the workshop. I love the angled clamp head you designed “I wonder where you got that idea from”!!! And the message board with the secret message pure genius

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks Steve! Haha glad you caught it :)

[@trailbuilding]

@@TheSwedishMaker but no cat.... tut tut steve

[@hankhasemeier6887]

I had a similar struggle separating magnets a while back. Couldndo it by hand but when youre doing big batches it gets very tiring so i printed a tool to separate magnets. Its really simple, basically just two plastic bars that are loosley pinned togetger at the end to for a type of scissors almost. Then half way through each bar is a hole thats big enough for the magnets to fit through. Line up the magnets so the seam between the two of them is aligned with the seam between the two bars and then just like scissors you can cut the magnets apart. Not my idea originally, i had seen a reddit post a long time ago about someone doing the same thing with 2×4's to separate really bug magnets and i just adapted that idea for a smaller 3d print to separate smaller magnets since almost all my projects use them somewhere.

[@fearlyenrage]

😊 Well information You could print a thinggy that separats the magnet fom the stack. Just a rod with a 8mm cutout and a depth of 3mm then you can share them of the pack. Like a coin separater does in a vendingmachine. Nice stuff you designed.

[@Sembazuru]

My thought for your angled clamp thingies, I wonder if you made the clamping surface the same size as on the clamp if you could just use the original rubber pads for grip. I may not have explained that well...

[@austinsmith1293]

The Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro can be had for a lot cheaper since they go on sale all the time. I got mine for about $140 from their official site about a year ago. The tag price was still $250 at the time, for reference.

[@Zigge]

You could make the clamp thingy with trunnions. That would save the screws and make it a lot stronger because you get a plastic to plastic support under the flippy part directly to the clippy part.

[@corbinwhan5955]

Try making the clamp a ball and socket joint so you have more range of motion, you then wouldn't need more than one type and can get some more strange angles.

[@Marcus_Caius]

Thanks for showing how things can be accomplished. Bought the 100mm Hose Adapter file. In Bambu Studio I change the orientation X @ 270Deg. Not sure it was mentionned in the instruction (I nerver look at instructiuon xD) pause @ layer 19

[@Lord_dreklord]

something to note about using these magnetic dustports: If you have a mixed shop where you also do metal work, I highly recommend not getting magnetic ones... the metal shavings get stuck on them and it's a pain to keep the dustport clean.

[@SauronsEye]

Or get magnetic ones and just not throw them in your metal swarf when you're finished for the day.

[@norm_olsen]

You just convinced me to jump into 3d printing! Awesome video man! The opportunities are endless!

[@DeveloperChris]

3d print a magnet separator. it looks a bit like a small paper guillotine, you put your block or roll of magnets in and then "slice" off an individual magnet. It will save your fingers.

[@Kolvert]

Hi, in order to encrease layer adhesion and both compression and tenssion resiliance, try printing at 45°, you won't believe the strength

[@vladaslitvinas5392]

"It actually works!" could be the slogan for this channel. ☺

[@bmgeyer]

Loved the secret messages going on! Super fun.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

thanks!

[@Berlin-Woodworker]

This is just awesome! I am intrigued to get a printer after this 😅😊 very impressive solutions and innovations you have come up with so far! Looking forward to the next ones!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks man! It's a really handy tool to have

[@turcmic]

Nicely done 🐱! Just got the laser working and now you almost convinced me I needed a 3D printer lol

[@andrewbostock1577]

Hi, why not design and print a magnet dispenser, say a screw feed on the bottom and a scissor action at the top to separate them? Similar to the round over guide you could have it in two main parts. The magnets could be in cartridges with a standard O.D. and bespoke I.D.s

[@BloodyMobile]

12:00 if you design the bottom part like the part of the clamp it goes onto, it could just take the removed rubber feet.

[@alexkt3400]

11:35 a feeling all too familiar to all of us. For me it is directly correlated with how certain I am about my measurements and paper design before I make the digital part. The more I'm sure I've got the perfect idea, the higher the chance it ends up being a full fail all around.

[@im.empimp]

@TheSwedishMaker - What do you do with your prototypes and damaged prints? Do you just throw them away? Do you try to recycle them?

[@JohnVanderbeck]

I have a whole series of 3d printed mounts that hang on my french cleat wall. Printed custom for various things, with the cleat built in. So simple :) I am a very bad woodworker, so making things as 3d prints allows me to create things that I never would have the skill for. I mean it isn't that it's no skill, but it is different skill. Instead of being reliant on your ability in woodworking, it is reliant on the engineering and design.

[@danielfinch9437]

You can also print a secret message if you needed to. Great to have in the shop

[@SoFalsey-ff4tt]

I could not find mounts anywhere to attach small solar lights to my round dock pilings on my boat dock. They literally do not sell them. I simply 3D printed my own and three years later...they are still holding up flawlessly in the Florida heat.

[@Fusion_Woodworking]

Dust collection adapters/couplers are the best thing to 3D print at home. Commercial ones are more durable and slicker looking, but they are not exactly what you want them to be. 3d printed ones are the way to go.

[@keithleslie]

Do you have a list or maybe a video that talks about all the screws, magnets, nuts, washers, etc. that you find most useful in 3D printing?

[@GlennBrockett]

🐈‍⬛I felt compelled to write a secret message. There were some great ideas for the shop there.

[@ardemus]

Good stuff, and well delivered! Side note, you probably already know this, but the trick to pulling magnets apart is not pulling them apart. Instead, slide them sideways and they come apart easily. Sliding them off onto a table makes it a little easier since the magnets can't snap back together. You could also make a tool. On the simple end a short tube with a small internal chamfer and a shelf can replace the table top so it's easy to feed them through and slide the next one off wherever you need them. Upgrade by adding a bit of metal inside the shelf to catch the magnet. You can even use the tool to press the magnet in place at that point (in your case do every other one, then flip the stack over and do the others). If the force is still too high or your fingertips get sore, then add an arm on a pivot to "slice" the magnet off with mechanical advantage. Upgrade that by ditching the shelf and instead feeding the magnets against a removable wheel, with ribs to push the magnets, metal to hold them after removal, and a handle so you get your mechanical advantage and can spin the wheel to quickly slice off and separate a dozen magnets at a time. Etc.

[@helipilotuh1]

You should make the rotating part of the clamp sized to fit the rubber feet that originally came with the clamp.

[@simnick]

I see you use the sys-org bins in your drawers. I've done the same. Looking forward to seeing your full design there. I've built a few custom bits for them myself.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Hey! Yes - the ones I use are 3d printed - I made them for this project: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ2pd3uplJtrpJY I love the way they work.

[@bako252]

Love your energy and the creative ideas you show us!

[@P8ntbaLLA56]

Make sure both sides of your connectors are grounded. Other than that, it looks great.

[@jakeaustin901]

I have a secret message for you: You just got a new subscriber. Love your stuff, and thank you for all your effort!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

hey! thanks a lot! Appreciate it

[@floatypiet]

Nice and inspiring video mate! I have a Bambu Lab A1 and now a bunch more ideas! ❤

[@AndrewMcQuillen]

Great inspirational video Pierre, I'm now sat at my desk redesigning some shampoo holders for our bathroom. Printing now 😀

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks Andrew. That's something I have on my honey-do-list as well :)

[@AndrewMcQuillen]

@@TheSwedishMaker No problem, mine is super simple, I'll send it to you if you like.

[@marsgizmo]

love the practical designs! 👏😎

[@TheSwedishMaker]

thanks man! Appreciate it!

[@P.T.S.E.]

...Why don't you make a magnet separator? It's just a tube with an end that can swivel. Basically something similar as your sanding paper holder, just smaller. Size the inner diameter bigger than the magnet and add a small lip for the swiveling part, that would help separate the last part. Also add lip on the outer side, so the rest of the magnet don't fall off. Then just twist the last part and one magnet falls into your hand. Or if you want something more complicated, you can just copy a Pez dispenser.

[@conorstewart2214]

11:17 when measuring something like that it is generally better to measure the solid plastic piece that your printed part with attach to rather than the flexible covering piece.

[@tomfull6637]

If you want the extra work and thinking to achieve an adequate play all around. With possible need of v.2, v3 etc until satisfactory results. Instead of wasting your resources (time, production costs) measure the loose covers as he did if their play are satisfactory. Kind regards Anders Seasoned mechanical engineer

[@przemyslawgawronski8410]

I really think, that this is good idea, to print/make yourself a magnet splitter for yours magnetic projects. 🐈

[@AlexanderEresov]

Mate, I don't see in video how you do your CAD work, but in case you use regular mouse - get yourself SpaceMouse, even the cheapest one does the trick. Your CAD will never be the same.

[@ClintonCaraway-CNC]

Wow that's nice. PwnCNC has been selling the same physical part and files for makers for years.

[@Denis_]

Great video ! Would love to know the source where you got your 3x10 magnets

[@Advcrazy]

So say I record a some tracks. Can I then have them displayed on the map “permanently” so the next time I’m in the area I can see where they are without having to remember exactly where there are tracks to ride? This is a feature I love in Gaia GPS

[@EdTannenbaum]

Export a STEP file from Fusion and bring that into Orca Slicer. Perfect curves!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

good advice! thanks

[@luke_fabis]

Could a ball and socket joint make sense for the quick clamp attachment? It would allow for planar misalignment along both axes, wheras a hinge joint only allows for one axis.

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

Great tips, thanks. What filament did you use for the dust extractor connectors?

[@HawkXe]

Great video! I’m a huge fan of 3D printed jigs. They helped me justify buying an X1C over a year ago 😂. Thanks to those jigs, I saved so much time and money when I built my own MFT work bench. Now I gotta print that 90 degree festool sander jig!

[@LeighWoodIT]

This may be a silly question with a simple answer. Why do you put the next magnet down the opposite way? Did you do them alternatively all around?

[@FrugalShave]

Lots of great stuff here. Qidi printers are more capable and a lot cheaper than the Bambu. Plus they have great customer service.

[@SharkyMoto]

friends of mine bought the a1 mini because i got an x1c and rubbed it under their nose for long enough - 199$ currently, if you think about getting a 3d printer, get this one, it will make everything shown in this video with ease.

[@piyush3549]

You can design the magnet dispenser, bit like staple gun where your thumb act as a magnet releaser. Magnet holding tray with slot at the end which will drop the magnet and a bow type catch on the top which act as a thumb push to release the magnet.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

its a good idea! thank you

[@guybrushthreepwood1090]

PETG easy to print you say... You must have better luck than me. It absorbs moisture like paper towel and is about as reliable in extruding. For reference, I use a P1P and can report it's excellent.