Homage Watch Brands Ranked Best To Worst: Pagani, San Martin, Islander, WMT, Seiko, Steinhart & More

[@batchwatches]

Great video educational right from the start! I had no idea about the UG and the PP Ellipse. Really entertaining and a fun topic 🙌

[@theurbangentry]

Thank you so much, that means a lot to me to hear that. If you want to find out more about the UG White Shadow and in case you missed it, here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5W2hnRmf8eeesk Onwards, upwards and best regards! TGV

[@batchwatches]

Thank you 🙌 I will check it out I confess I have already been on Chrono 24 after this 😅

[@skistrycharski6999]

Y’all R so funnel & informational, that coming from budget watch collector ‼️🥴😎

[@dadandvideogames]

I enjoy Pagani and Steeldive for being able to enjoy designs I'd never be able to access or, yes, afford. As a newer watch collector who initially fell in love with Casio, they've been awesome for me. Such terrific value, and a great opportunity to learn history. My Steeldive Captain Willard homage is one of my absolute favorite watches.

[@borislavblagoev14]

Same here. I have Steeldive SD1953 and absolutely love it. I'll never own the Rolex Submariner because it cost more than mine and my girlfriend cars. But to get just the touch of experience for a 100€ is enough for me. It doesn't says Rolex on the dial, and Rolex never lost me as client because of it, because I never was in the first place, and the only people that can see what you wearing is other enthusiasts like us. It gives me nice feeling because it well made and it has mechanical Seiko nh35 movement.

[@mema4922]

Stick with casios

[@PocketUau]

I've tried two Pagani watches and I'm satisfied. It's mostly a good way of trying on the look of a more costly watch over time. When you try on a Speedy at the boutique you don't get to explore every nuance and light play of the case design. If you can find a decent homage watch, you'll be able to experiment for as long as you wish.

[@codrupaun8070]

Same here with my Tuna and Willard Steeldive homages. Absolutely amazing, for 80-90 USD and NOT only.

[@jankay8569]

Fake

[@jtsnowman66]

San Martin and Steeldive are excellent quality watches and both have original designs available as well.

[@codrupaun8070]

Quite right. I own 2 Steeldives (Tuna and Willard homages). Quality is outstanding: 316L steel, saphire, NH35 movement, perfect alignments, screw down crown, excellent straps or bracelet - everything for around 87 USD!! No doubt that Steinhart offers very good quality as well, but the price difference...................

[@jb678901]

@@codrupaun8070 I'd add Cronos, Borman, Thorn, and Seestern/Sugess to the list. As well, Addiesdive seems a close sister brand to Steeldive and is often priced just below SD.

[@securitybase3430]

Don't forget the Loreo Submarino Diver.

[@mattys1467]

I ended up having to watch this over a few sittings. It was fascinating to see how you broke a complex and controversial issue into constitute parts. No-one has really tried to do that. For me, I think the moonlighting category actually encompasses a majority of the brands discussed. Look at San Martin as an example, they have moved into original design in a similar path as Longislandwatch. I think it is a relatively easily understood route. Start off with homages, build a baseline of quality and reliability. Build and establish your business and then move into more original designs.

[@DavidDatura]

Interesting point, that didn’t occur to me 🤔

[@akastenas]

Great comment that is true.

[@brianmsahin]

Excellent video gents! I began my watch journey as a bit of a snob. Not only would I not buy digital, I wouldn't buy quartz analogue. No longer. My first watches were Seiko classics, Orient, Tissot, Longines and my most expensive, my Omega Seamaster. Now, I have Casio, G-Shock, microbrands AND I got some Ali Express watches including a Heimdallr Monster NH36, with a red dial and sapphire crystal, I have the original but Seiko never made red. Same with Tuna, as well as the original I have yellow dial Steeldive Tuna as Seiko never made the colour either. Both suitable for diving, I tried both. Also a Pagani. I bought the plastic Mission to Uranus Moonswatch as a summer watch, I got a blue wrist, a lost pusher, scratched glass, frayed strap. Ended up getting my money back only because of the blue wrist. They would have blamed me for the other things. I felt a bit foolish having bought it, like an adult wearing a child's watch. So...I got the stainless steel Pagani version with sapphire crystal, solid link bracelet, milled clasp, Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement, for around $100 including import tax etc. It's 100 times better for less than half the price and you don't feel like an idiot wearing it. It's not a clone, because it's on a much higher level of quality than the plastic original. I have gone from watch snob to real watch enthusiast who never turns his nose up to quality commensurate with price. The two divers are different because Seiko never made the colours, or put sapphire on them come to think of it. Lol. Plus as Seiko have no problem selling their movements to these firms it gives them more acceptability.

[@AvgJoeWatchReviews]

TGV and Marc… really enjoyed the video chaps. The transparency and the good humor with Marc and his brand was refreshing. Marc is such a humble and real guy. TGV, your deep dive scoring system was the most comprehensive way of looking at homages. I never even considered some of your points. Learned a bunch. Thanks guys.

[@theurbangentry]

🙌🙌🙌 Thank you so much Joe, you are kind and considerate as always. Have a great rest of your week. Best regards, TGV

[@mpmcd81]

I own an Islanderjust and it’s essentially all I wear. It is where I draw the line. It looks like the DJ but not really. The case is similar but REALLY not quite. Similar personality, no doubt. But some definite qualities all of its own. Pagani’s new speedmaster homage is well done. Like an Omega in DNA but gone off in a totally different direction. Quartz movement (which I prefer), better water resistance, domed sapphire crystal, no easily identifiable parts of the Omega’s markings except for the case layout and lugs. This is an entirely different offering like a Bulova Lunar Pilot. This is the direction I would like to see them take their brand.

[@johnholkham2420]

I’ve brought several San Martins which could be classed as Tudor homages of the BB, they actually are better to wear as slimmer than the original. The finish and bracket much better than Seiko at £500 - £750 mark. The movement fitter are the ETA clone called the PT5000 which have all been under + or - 5 sec . Obviously no match for an original Tudor but if you want the look without the outlay.

[@RubbelisPro]

I actually opt for the San Martin's utilizing Seiko movements as it makes them that much easier to service and enjoy long-term. Yeah, you're not getting the accuracy of the swiss movement clones, but much cheaper to fix should any issues occur out of warranty. GREAT watches all around.

[@akastenas]

Could not agree more. At this point they are offering good value. Don't know how long this would last however.

[@paulvon2378]

buy a Tudor mate

[@verynormalman]

Every time you check the time, it chips away at your internal worth. As the shampoo says "you're not worth it"!

[@that_which_is_not]

Have a Steeldive and a San Martin, both incredible. Have lots of other non homage watches, my Steeldive and San Martin however are better made than some of my non homage watches!

[@brandonlanois1734]

I just bought a Skmei Casioak homage lol.

[@Horizontalvertigo]

@@brandonlanois1734 Ironically I suppose?

[@brandonlanois1734]

@@Horizontalvertigo yep

[@Boblw56]

I have an Addiesdive bronze Willard that’s better than the original for $145

[@tonymassagli1475]

I am undoubtedly against blatant copies and fakes. But the clear homage companies like Pagani or even San Martin and Invicta provide amazing value for the money to people who may never be able to afford the real deal. AND more importantly, they may be the spark that ignites someone’s interest into this wonderful world of watches and horology. My love was sparked from James Bond, my first watch was a blue faced fossil that 6-7 year old me thought looked just like Bonds at the time.

[@Rippeee]

I would not put invicta and Pagani on a same category. Invicta have some homage models, but it's Not a homage company, it has Roots from 1837.

[@marcustulliuscicero9140]

Invicta is worse, because its pretending to have heritage when it doesn't@@Rippeee . Someone brought the name of a Swiss heritage brand and is slapping it on Chinese swiss homage watches.

[@akastenas]

​@@RippeeeInvicta is similar to Thomas Earnshaw watches. Someone buys a derelict brand and starts producing cheap watches.

[@jb678901]

I own more than a few luxury watches (e.g., Rolex, Glashutte, Breitling) and I also enjoy collecting and wearing watches from the likes of Steeldive, Cronos, San Martin, Thorn, Seestern. I find that expensive luxury brands are not always convenient to wear in certain environments and less suitable for everyday tool-watch activities. I can wear a Steeldive anywhere...and am less likely to "lose an arm" over it (both figuratively AND physically).

[@ceebee-j5x]

fake is no protection unfortunately @@jb678901

[@davisantos3431]

Hey TGV, constructive criticism if you're gonna read it: I find it contradictory that you always talk about how you can't judge a watch you've never experienced, but here you're doing exactly that. Some PD watches go for around $60. What's the worst that could happen if you bought one of them to try out? If you actually look into it, you're gonna realize that most people don't have any issues with them, and the ones who do are covered by buyer protection anyway. I also find it rather strange that you have a video called "why the invicta pro diver is the best watch under $100", but rates chinese brands so low even when they're substantially better in every way aside from brand history. Plus, there are a lot of original designs from Chinese brands as well. I think you're missing out on a lot of great stuff!

[@laurencehogg6010]

Agreed. I'm not sure what the problem is with these watches but you're right - it's starting to look like ignorance (which is something I never thought I'd say about this channel).

[@davidrosenblum2178]

Always a treat when you guys chat! And as someone who has more than a few of the watches from brands you describe in my collection it was educational. Thanks and look forward to the next time!

[@ryanthailand]

Pagani are awesome for the price and use Seiko movements. Got 3 and never had an issue with reliability, quality control, alignment etc. Yet more expensive brands I've had problems with.

[@theurbangentry]

Great to hear that. You are very lucky! Enjoy and thank you for sharing, Best regards, TGV

[@Greysprunkiyay]

Anecdotal.

[@karlsenula9495]

I've got 6-7 Pagani's as part of my 60 watch collection that also includes luxury Swiss pieces(Tag, JLC, Hamilton), plus Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Casio, Timex, Vostok, 2 San Martins, Steeldives, Seesterns etc. And I still love the Pagani's and have had no issues with any of them - they still get A LOT of wear without worrying if something happens to them. I know Pagani's are not great, and for those who hate homages I get the dislike, but they are VERY good value for money with specs, decent movement and can give someone unattainable designs for a fraction of the price. I see them as good entry level watches .. as all of our collections evolve so does the quality and prices of the pieces we collect.

[@juniorjohnson5961]

What Vostok ?

[@MrBacchus18]

I’ve only had 1 Pagani and it actually felt low quality

[@AP-op4rc]

TGV, you really are an artist. I remember hearing about people going to the old James Bond movies just to see the intros because of how beautiful and creative they are. Your old intro was excellent, as is this new one. It suits you and and the general tone of the channel beautifully.

[@robshipinski5545]

I love my Steinhart GMT. It has an ETA movement and it is bullet proof. I've abused this thing so much and it is a tank. I've owned the Rolex 16710 Pepsi and the Tudor GMT and it's hard to believe how well the Steinhart holds up. Both Rolex brands had issues and had to be serviced within two years of owning. I've had the Steinhart now going on 5 years with ZERO issues...

[@ej_sykes]

Love my Steinhart. Incredible piece for the price, the dimensions of their 39mm models are perfect for me, they're so accurate out of the box, and the bezel action is the best I've ever felt.

[@sfstoltenberg]

I have the Ocean Thirty-nine Adventure (explorer homage) and I think it is great. I have it running about -3s/d. It is comfortable, looks great, and is easy to read. I appreciate that it is a Rolex design and that they should get some credit for that, but I will not pay $8,000 for a watch. The Steinhart was $450. I'm not trying to fool anyone into thinking that I have a Rolex. Most people that I know wouldn't even recognize that an Explorer is a Rolex because it isn't very blingy.

[@jankay8569]

Fake

[@deanwaller8283]

​@@sfstoltenberg I've got the same one,it's so good it's insane that it's only £450

[@deanwaller8283]

​@@jankay8569 so's your face

[@CyberBeep_kenshi]

i have an ocean one 39mm as well, the premium blue/black version. it is my favourite watch, easily :-) so much value for the price😊

[@halfgreekleo]

Nice to see a genuine and adult discussion about this stuff, great topic and I'm glad you and Mark took the time to discuss it long form as it deserves

[@mrmagoo.3678]

Adult?.. Like?.. "Adult" ..I haven't watched it Yet, but I thought they were just great Friends, Good Buddies and all that Malarkey?.. As long as it sticks to the conversation and not the Visual I could probably still stick around, thanks for the Warning though! :D

[@msaylorBTC100M]

Top 3 for me have always been Cronos, San Martin & Steinhart... great value watches

[@Ott0vonBismarck]

What do you think about the Cronos l6005 or alternatively the l6015?

[@heikowallauer]

Good evening TGV! Looking forward for this video! It's always a treat for us viewers when you and Marc are having a conversation on watch topics. Best regards!

[@theurbangentry]

Evening Heiko! Enjoy and chin chin 🥂😎 Thank you as always. Best regards to you too! T.

[@niksoncutts]

I never thought I'd hear TGV say the words "Pagani Design", "San Martin", and "Steeldive"! The Steeldive SD1970 is really good, I have it and it's awesome value for money. I have a Seiko King Turtle and I'd say it holds up pretty well against it. Not as good, of course, but it's close, and at around $75-90 it's not even in the same ballpark price wise.

[@Unwoken_European]

San Martin is probably the king of Ali Express.

[@thetruebatman4632]

Mark’s headphone/microphone combo KILLED me 😂 that’s just an awesome engineer making awesome engineer decisions.

[@watchreviews4k]

Interesting content. Keep up the good work on your channel. Regards, WR4K.

[@martinmoore1821]

TGV and Marc. I’ve unloaded the luxury brands in my collection in favor of the San Martins and Orient Stars because they make excellent watches. Even Proxima are very acceptable. And I’m happy with performance and looks of all of them. Great video. You guys need your own show. So much fun!!

[@laurencehogg6010]

Great comment. I've also relatively recently discovered Baltany - beautiful and very well made watches.

[@jazzman5598]

I began collecting in 1969 when I took an entire 2 week paycheck ($75.00…..yep, when $75.00 bucks would buy you something. At 15 my options were limited but Zales sold a bi-compax non, hacking, manual wind, BAYLOR chronograph. I only had the $75.00 bucks. If I had an extra $20.00 I could have owned a tri-compax with a 12 hour totalizer…same “Baylor” watch. It was literally made on the same line, same assemblers, exact same parts……made by Heuer. It was called the poor man’s Heuer. So yes, the “ made by the same assembly line” has been a thing for awhile. I wore that watch last week. Full Service in 2017. Super fine concept for the show TGV! Thanks Marc!

[@007Chancellor]

Happy that Steinhart showed well on your ranking. I absolutely love the style (copied or not), quality and affordability of their line.

[@permabear6025]

I have two, think they’re terrific value overall but misalignment seems to be quite common. Not that anyone else notices…

[@staceygram5555]

Seem to hold their value relatively well, too, surpricingly. Sold both of mine after 5 or so years of ownership. Lost about $70-$80 on the diver, but gained about the same on the (discontinued) pilot. So basically rented two watches for 5 years for free. Not bad for such cheap watches.

[@CyberBeep_kenshi]

Got one as well, no issues whatsoever. my favourite watch

[@poulwinther]

Well, the various San Martin's of the world also do homages of vintage watches that we couldn't possibly buy (and only absolute watch geeks would recognize anyway) so I'd have to place those higher than 2 but otherwise I more or less agree.

[@goldfools5445]

I will stick with SanMartin. Some of their designs are nominally original. Their vintage inspired watches are well done and their homage watches always have a SanMartin spin, smaller, thinner, brushed vs polishing etc. All while keeping quality that is way beyond expectations. If you want to pay extra for Swiss movements, they are an option as well.

[@KalElinabox]

I'd also recommend the brand "proxima". They're a bit cheaper than San Martin. They're mostly Seiko designs but they have stellar lume ,they're regulated and they also usually have the option of a Swiss movement.

[@juniorjohnson5961]

Can you get them without the Unicorn 🦄

[@KalElinabox]

@juniorjohnson5961 Depends on the watch. Some of them just say Proxima.

[@patrickhartmann1540]

Appreciate the candid conversation on this topic. Own Rolex and Tudor clomages by San Martin and Pagani. All are fun to wear and well done. For me, they aren’t special in the way my other watches are, but they do make fun beaters.

[@ianaguiarsouza]

Great conversation! I have a pagani (paul newman homage), it absolutely rocks. I use daily to time my swim workouts

[@christopherjohnson4276]

I have the PD1701 Mission to Alaska. For $80, amazing. Today, my Steeldive SD1970 arrived. Stunning for $74. Value for FUN. (Edit: The lume on the SD1970 is ridiculous. Ridiculously good.)

[@RJ-cq8dd]

What i especially like are homage brands who do a better job than the original brand. Like my Heimdallr Monster (milled clasp and sapphire crystal) or Tactical frog VS75 v2 (Speedtimer/Daytonal) with a ceramic bezel and no ugly date cutout. All at 1/3 the price of a Seiko.

[@andromedagodit2492]

N at what fraction of a Daytona, eh? 😊

[@NotThatOneThisOne]

I think there's a difference between homage brands referencing mass produced brands and referencing hand built/finished luxury watches. One's using modern tools to reduce margins, the other is taking the proverbial urine. Certainly makes me feel better about my Steeldive 1970, which is better than pretty much any Seiko at five times the price.

[@alexm2113]

So excited for another episode of watch talk with Marc! 🥂 TGV!

[@theurbangentry]

Thank you Alex! 😎🙏🥂 Best regards, TGV

[@stevehenrytagami4709]

Little difference between Steinhart and San Martin , except price . San Martin put their own touches , construct and finish superbly and even do original designs or homages of deleted vintage watches. They are miles ahead of Pagani with quality and finish . You should check them out as most of us would never afford the original

[@arthurott4561]

Steinhart is a Swiss-made watch with some cachet, San Martin has none.

[@jayjayhooksch1]

I own a Steinhart but Ive heard similar good things about San Martin. I'll have to get my hands on one because their bracelets look better than my Steinhart's bracelet.

[@travis3430]

​​@@jayjayhooksch1I've got a San Martin BB54 homage & it's really well made, great quality! The San Martins, Proxima's & Seesterns £200 or so watches blow the heritage brands in the £400 pound range away on specs & build quality imho. I've a Davosa quartz pepsi GMT with poor specs which I paid £360 for & since getting into the Chinese brands I feel I've been robbed blind to be honest. I believed all the negative don't get a Chinese watch blah blah but I've got 4 & waiting on a 5th & they've all been great with fast delivery so far. Chinese homages can sometimes offer watches in a preferable size to the watch they're homaging too. I've a orange dial Cadisen SKX for £55 as a daily beater / summer watch (ceramic bezel, Sapphire crystal, nh35 movement with a screw down crown...Seiko would want £270 for those specs probably. it means I can buy more watches with the £ saved 😁

[@THEMADWATCHCOLLECTOR]

Great show fellas . It’s a murky mucky sea out there when we try to explain Homages!!! It was great to watch!!

[@karlsenula9495]

With regard to homages I would say 1) we should all appreciate watch enthusiasts no matter what watch they wear and 2) just because we own an homage (and please remember an homage is different than a fake i.e. not trying pass itself off as the original no matter how close it looks) it doesn't mean that we can't appreciate other more expensive, and or harder to obtain originals or don't aspire/ are working towards owning them. We are all at different income levels and different stages in our watch collecting journeys.

[@frankdux5693]

They're not really homages though. They're 1for1 fake copies with a different logo.

[@rimas.kalpokas]

@@frankdux5693no. They are homages. Faithful homages.

[@mvhdsk1122]

This does go a bit past reality, bro. See, since we all got different income levels, I have to live with not being able to buy a Ferrari car, or a Lange & Söhne watch. I simply can't afford it. Now, what do I gain when buying a Fiat car with Ferrari emblem on it??? Not a true Ferrari anyway. It's just about being true, last not least to yourself. I recently heard a watch talk about a used car trader that advertised a car so the talk host, but wore a watch that was obviously not genuine. He said he could not take the seller serious from the moment he noticed. I see his point... Often enough, yearning for brands like Rolex is waste of time anyway. Imagine having 10-15k cash at hand and walking into a Rolex store, and not being able to pass them your heaps of money that you want to part with because they can't give you what you want. I can't take such a brand serious, especially when what they deliver for their price is so much bread-and-butter. Look at what you get for that kind of money at Glashütte Original, for example... If you apreciate watches for their craft, your view on this topic will never be the same. In addition, there are brands that I can afford and that are good brands, they work to create or maintain their heritage and their own designs. Look at Longines, for example, or get into microbrands. There is much to be apreciated, and earns to be bought more than a simple copy of a watch that is not even truly outstanding if it wasn't for the hype...

[@JamieChorley]

I think the thing that people tend to miss with the Pagani's and similar price range watches, is that they're not necessarily produced primarily for western markets. They obviously sell decent units in to it, but in massive markets like India where average buying power is low, often the option to just save up to the next tier isnt there, and in their price bracket, there are very few competitive main stream options in terms of spec-for-spec alternatives

[@davidcrandall4958]

Great information!

[@davidcrandall4958]

Great Information!

[@marcustulliuscicero9140]

They are all aimed at the Chinese market tbh. That's why its almost always 90% rolex clones. I'd buy a San Martin but not a Pagani tbh. For a Pagani, you can get nicer Orients around the same price point which are probably better made. San Martin's ETA clone watches are more interesting than the NH-35 type stuff imho.

[@theax40]

​@@marcustulliuscicero9140An Orient for the same price as a Pagani that's better made? Nonsense. I have a Mako 2 which was about $200. The bracelet is shit. Hollow endlinks, folded metal clasp, push pins for bracelet adjustment. The case itself is good, except for the shit plastic bezel insert that gets scratched easily. I have a Pagani GMT which is very similar in style. Ceramic bezel, no scratches. But more importantly, the bracelet puts Orient to shame. Solid endlinks, milled clasp that's MILES AHEAD of Orient's clap. Screw in pins for bracelet adjustment. I'll never buy another Orient again. Don't get me wrong, I like it. But at that price point, I'll just buy another Pagani. It's so much better.

[@Twenty-fifthofMay1967]

@@marcustulliuscicero9140 Absolute nonsense. San Martin are shite; read any blog on Chinese watches, and see the complaints about them. For vfm, Pagani are miles ahead of the crap you listed. Jeezo...

[@SantiagoAyoso]

I try different china brands but for me definitely Steeldive and Cadisen are the best. I 100% recommend

[@syahrulk9294]

do you think steeldive and addiesdive are related? because I don't have enough money, so I plan to buy a submarine model addiesdive

[@akastenas]

​@@syahrulk9294Yes they have same suppliers in some cases offices located in same city.

[@teenoso4069]

Like or loathe the advantage of Pagani is their watches are worn. Snobbery aside, Pagani produce a decent worth for the price for those on a budget. Get the look and feel of a Rolex today for 1/100th of the price. Clothes, shoes, fragrances, bags, watches - these issues have been there for a long time.

[@thesilverpittie9632]

I have a Steinhart Premium vintage GMT and a Sugess Platona Homage and would reccommend the Steinhart as a great watch and Sugess as the cheap homages.

[@Kittyland123]

Thank you so much TGV for another wonderful discussion with Mark! I really enjoyed your perspectives and logic behind your watch rating discussion! I also really enjoyed your openminded perspective and willness to explore any brand and evaluate it deeply no matter the price or class! Stay healthy and wonderful as always! (Nick L) 🦖🦖🦖🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@dannyg6592]

Good episode. I have a Pagani Daytona homage and a Pagani Speedmaster homage in my collection. They are both flawless and a pleasure to own and wear. I also have a San Martin 1016 Explorer homage that cost three times the price of either Pagani. The San Martin has problems with the movement, lume, caseback and clasp that have all detracted from my ownership experience.

[@CyberBeep_kenshi]

I own a Steinhart Ocean one 39mm watch, one of their premium versions. it is easily my favorite watch. Impeccably build.

[@jayjayhooksch1]

How's the bracelet and cyclops? The bracelet on my Steinhart Ocean 1 ceramic 42mm feels antiquated compared to what these Chinese companies are pumping out with options like polished center links, glidelock systems, better tapering. I like that a lot of them offer sapphire casebacks too. Don't get me wrong, my Steinhart bracelet and case is ok and doesn't feel cheap, but I feel like it gets left in the dust by watches a quarter to a third of their price. My cyclops was so bad I had to pop it off. The Chinese brands' cyclops look nicer, though I won't have had one in hand for a few more weeks to actually compare to my Rolex cyclops.

[@wngimageanddesign9546]

There is nothing wrong with Pagani Design. Their value, build quality, and design are brilliant. Never been scammed, had excellent customer service, and now able to enjoy iconic watch styles that I can no longer afford since my entire Swiss watch collection was stolen by my ex-wife. The huge asset loss and trauma caused me to not wear a watch for a decade. Thank heavens for discovering Pagani Design to rekindle my passion for watches this year. I may have lost my Omegas and Rolexes, and numerous boutique marques, but now able to wear an Omega homage today, and be impressed for what it is. My PD-1685 Omega Seamaster 300M homage looks and feels amazing.

[@shrkys4]

Proper banter, chaps! Enjoyed it very much and helped me discover some new brands, Lorier, San Martin, Steeldive, etc. Well done!

[@jeroennishikigoi1164]

I love my PD’s! Also mine citizen, casio, seiko’s and so on. First i didnt tought id like that and that they are bad. But i fell in love after a explorer hommage. My speedy hommages are amazing!

[@Zeratsu]

this video feels so wholesome and warm, we call this kinda stuff "lampovo" from the word lamp. Like incandescent lamp with warm yellow light that gives you comfort and you talking with your friends this whole thing is really wholesome, that's what it is!

[@jazzman5598]

Question: Other than Christopher Ward & Doxa, what other brands used an offset at the 9:00 for the name placement on the dial? Great vid! Thanks

[@johnbonanni1731]

Its always great seeing the great collaboration of you... TGV, Marc, and Hugo. As a watch collector I personally would buy a watch that is widely recognized. Cheers!

[@Trapvision3D]

Thanks for dropping this video. This is extremely educational and gives a different perspective. Amazing stuff💯

[@jarrettbullivant5522]

The watches I like are the 'clomages' (collage) rather than the homage. I think this could have been another category 😉I would define it in three different ways with three San Martin watches. Firstly, putting together different features from a range of watches to form a new variant (Rolex 39mm Explorer but with submariner dial and boxed sapphire SN20G). Second, sympathetically modernise a vintage watch with new materials ( Rolex 5517, boxed sapphire and ceramic bezel insert, SN006G). Thirdly, fix what watch enthusiasts don't like about a particular model, (Tudor Pepsi GMT which is too big 41 x 15, SN0109 40 x 13) or (Tudor 42mm Pelagos which is too big, 42 x 15, SN0121G 39 x 13, no helium escape valve). Respectable watch companies do this a lot. For instance, the Omega pre-bond was a Rolex Submariner in an intergrated bracelet case. You also mentioned the moonwatch as an original design. Try googling Rodania Geometer than appears to have first been introduced in 1954. Uncanny I would say.

[@VMIyanks04]

Nothing like a great bond-like music intro! Love that! Harkens back to a better time! Thanks for the discussion! Mark mentioned Zelos and NTH as “better microbrands” but according to the final scoring, that would put them with Pagani in category 5. I would think they should rank a little higher since they are original designs but influenced by heritage styling, vs just straight copies, no? Especially since they’re not even moonlighting like category.

[@vktravellog1242]

Just in time for another marc video! Man I watched all the old episodes twice already so it was great to see this!

[@ajmarion]

anyone know who that podcast they were talking about was? Mark you're the man!

[@steven631764]

So much good info on watches at the macro level from 2 guys who really know their stuff ❤

[@Okido24]

I really like Dan Henry because you can collect horological history. I like Steinhart because you can own a dream watch that are worth their salt but not unreachable. This works well with one big gun that is in the Rolex/ Breitling/Omega realm. In the end 99,9% of people couldn’t care less if it’s not an Apple Watch. So do it for yourself. It’s a hobby.

[@bigdavedave9865]

I have to say, the way Mark dealt with the situation with the podcast you mentioned was very dignified. There is a man who doesn’t put the opinions of others above his own 👌😎

[@tiemenstaal]

Appreciate you both. I've seen some watch reviewers with an inexplicable dislike for homages, something I don't understand. They have a place in my collection to represent pieces that I will never own either due to cost or sheer availability. San Martin and Steinhart are the quality sweet spot for me personally, I couldn't get passed the Pagani and Steeldive quality. The bracelet is what gives a cheap watch away. That said, San Martin has been impressing lately. Never heard of WMT before but I appreciate learning about them!

[@TheFlyrodder68]

I appreciate the transparency and honesty of both of you guys.

[@amankozha9778]

Great Intro, As Always! Amazing to see the team back in the Game!

[@davidbellamy1403]

This was definitely a fascinating video by two of my favorite YTIs. I very seldom watch 15 minute videos. I just don’t have the time, but this one intrigued me and I’m glad I watched it. I’ll start by saying that I watched many of both of your videos in the early days of my collecting and you both helped educate me and to influence my tastes in this hobby, so thanks to both of you for helping me to get started. I’ve also heard from many other people with similar experience with each of you. You’ve done a great deal to encourage people in this hobby and you should be proud. I really liked the way you broke this down into the various categories and rated them. Obviously well thought out Tristano. As for my own choices, I’m pretty much in line with with both of you, I draw the line at fakes and have softened by stance on homage is over the years And have come to the same conclusion that Mark mentioned, “Let’s face, it all watches are homages to some extent.” I’ve been tempted a few times to buy complete homages to more expensive watches beyond my budget limits, but I’ve come to realize that every time I look at that watch, I’ll be thinking, “I wish it were…“. Thanks again to both of you for a very interesting well thought out and well produced piece.

[@SpaceG95]

I just bought my first automatic watch, an Aragon Dive Master 4 EVO. And it's amazing. I would really love to hear either one of your opinions on "affordable" brands like Aragon and Deep Blue. I understand that they make "big" watches, but I would like to hear what you guys think of the quality. Hopefully you guys get to read and respond.

[@PheasantPluckersMate]

You guys are the best - love these episodes. I’m not a collector at the expensive end of the spectrum, but I’m a bit weird about when and where I wear certain watches. For example, I’ll happily wear my Pagani Speedy at home all day long and I really love it; exceptional value and well executed. However, if I’m going out with friends or for dinner etc, I grab an original brand/design watch (anything from GShock to Tissot or a micro brand), to avoid having to explain that I’m not wearing an Omega, to anyone who happens to notice my wrist and says ‘nice watch’. Maybe Pagani is my guilty pleasure 😊

[@FELIX4764]

A very informative and interesting video. Yourself and Mark gave me some food for thought on your scores regarding different watch 'types' Thanks.

[@FFFFelix]

The Steeldive 1970 is pretty amazing for the money. I'm off on honeymoon to near Mombassa at the end of the month and the Steeldive will be on my wrist. Great to be able to appreciate a classic design without having to have a years wages of the guy serving you a beer sitting on your wrist

[@garynico9872]

it's too big

[@e28forever30]

@@garynico9872 Your wrist is too small.

[@davidcrandall4958]

​@@e28forever30Now Now Children! Go sit in the corner!

[@Copilot1204]

What do you do for a living?

[@turbyoulance]

Great fun video. I wonder if for charity there will ever be a competition to make the most accurate Frankenstein homage collaboration. Is there a link to your friend in Blues' U Tube channel and his invention's at all ?

[@markusbe.musicfromtheunder2497]

ALWAYS AWESOME. Love you guys together. Thank you!

[@alyandjake9090]

Love the videos you make with mark. Amazing job!

[@GPatrolUte]

Hey boys, it’s too easy to chuck the Chinese (did I say that) into the homage basket yet bang on about how tuff it is the start a watch brand, movement restrictions, materials, QC dadadada It’s becoming an old chestnut but We alllllllll have to live within our means and we all love watches. I’m sure you know what I mean. BTW I like Pagani and Seiko equally at the sub $1K USD. Here’s a question… why do Seiko put mineral (hardilex) into sub $1500 watches and Pagani installs Saphire crystals? You may see why on some models I’m torn. Love your work. Cheers Mickpw.

[@multipl3]

Never had a any issues with Aliexpress. I actually find them much better to deal with than Amazon or Ebay where I have been stung in the past and left in the lurch.

[@thewaywelive2775]

It actually hurts a bit, hearing you dogging on Pagani and San Martin like that. Especially when you have so little experience with them. San Martin actually tries to make their own models and Pagani have done so too to a lesser extent, though. Getting into watches they are a great way to try different styles for not that much money before you buy the real thing. This is how I found out that I'm just not into watches above 40mm. That would have been an expensive endeavor had those brands not existed. It's also hard to hear you talk about QC issues (which are actually quite rare), when I know you've both seen misalignment from Seiko on watches far more expensive than any of the offerings from Pagani and San Martin.

[@laurencehogg6010]

I agree with this strongly. I left a similar comment but this one is tighter than mine and you've also very respectfully said how the vid made you feel. I'm not sure how much longer TUG can go on ignoring a set of brands so many of us appreciate before the channel's credibility is called into question. Case in point is the recent 'best affordable divers' video absent of any Chinese brands - which in 2023 is not credible as an advisory video imo. Take care.

[@lastofgenex]

I’m glad you mentioned Bamford, I’m a big admire of theirs and wondered what your opinion was and where you see them positioned.

[@withRUfUS]

Funny I literally was just having the same debate over the new Steinhart Architect release and with all these new Genta influenced releases, you always have your finger on the watch communities pulse. This was Awesomely timed so glad you covered this subject.

[@donquxiote7653]

Love my Pagani. Can't wait to get another!

[@jb678901]

There is a really terrific watch from Seestern (aka Sugess) with model No. S435 that has been called a "homage" of the Glashutte SeaQ. The SeaQ being a "reboot" of a vintage GUB/Glashutte diver watch from the late 1960's, when that company was under the boot of the GDR (East Germany). However, that vintage diver seems to resemble another French Navy dive watch from Le Forban Sécurité Mer, introduced in 1966. Therefore, one might conclude the SeaQ is a homage of a East German "replica" or a homage of Le Forban Sécurité Mer...and that the Seestern S435 is either a homage or a homage of a homage. In any event, I have enjoyed my Glashutte Senator (39-44-03-11-04) since 2008...a fantastic dress watch in my humble view. I also purchased the Seestern S435 (with SeaGull ST2130) from the Sugess Official Store on Aliexpress, for US$200. Excellent specs/fit/finish, and an absolute steal at this price point. Wearing it right now and frankly, I cannot understand how this company can produce such a fine watch at this price point.

[@travis3430]

I have the same Seestern S435 watch, it's really high quality for the money no doubt. I wonder how the hell they can do that quality for that price.

[@lonniesharp9109]

I dig these discussions. Also, my Pagani GMT Master II is one of my favorite watches 💪

[@jeepnicc]

So, by what I can gather from this video, is that the milsub homage that I built, from parts sourced on e Bay, installed in a modified Invicta 8926ob case, worn on an admiralty gray NATO strap, ranks higher than my drop-dead-gorgeous Pagani design pd1676 Daytona homage with the Seiko vk63 mechaquartz movement? Sapphire Crystal, ceramic bezel, screw down crown and pushers... ? Not mad or offended, just think maybe you've made an assumption without ever having your hands on the piece.... Hmmmmm... Bad form.... Bad form! P. S. Please read this in Hugo's voice!

[@Avigazed]

Thank you Gentlemen. That was immensely interesting. I wasn't even interested in watch collecting, when I came across The Urban Gentry. I was looking for information about a Seiko SKX, and why they were so well known. And now I just love listening to these guys talk about watches. The knowledge and history is so fascinating. Thanks TGV I always learn something from these. 👍

[@chrisp.5272]

I love Casio, but I certainly will be adding a Speedy and Sub homage to the collection from Pagani as an everyday durable work watch. I have my sights set on a Bulova Lunar Pilot this year and love “space” watches. I love the Citizen Group, Casio’s with Miyota movements, Citizen Eco-Drive’s, Bulova, and hopefully a cheap Alpina Startimer Quartz.

[@driller7714]

I have the Pagani Speedy homage that I wear at work. It’s a very good watch and has held up perfectly. I work on a drill rig so it gets plenty of abuse. I also have the genuine Omega Speedmaster. The Pagani looks similar at first glance but it is in no way a 1 to 1 homage. The Pagani is thicker, is bigger in general, wears bigger, the dial is very different, the bezel sits higher, the genuine Speedy has no rehaut where the Pagani does, the crystal has a completely different profile, and of course, the sub dials sit in different locations due to the use of a different movement. There really isn’t a 1 to 1 homage of the Speedmaster like there is for watches like the Sub, Daytona, Seamaster, ect. With that said, I really enjoy my Paganis (I have the Daytona homage as well) If you’re looking for a nice Sub homage, check out Sugess. They make a good one.

[@adamant262]

San Martin obviously is heavily inspired, but they will change the case size a lot or mix match different models together.

[@555tc555]

Great video guys. Years back I bought a Helson Sharkmaster 600 Ploprof. The real vintage one would so be my cup of tea but just can‘t afford it. And omega just released the modern ploprof around that time which doesn’t look as good as the vintage one. I asked myself the sane questions back then. Is it just a blunt copy? Is it worth it? I really enjoy the Helson with its saphire glas and great lume. Last year I bought a titanium Heimdallr Sea ghost NTTD dive watch. For the price a great watch with enough small differences to the omega NTTD Seamaster to have its own vibe. It definitely scratches the itch for me for the real NTTD which is way to expensive for what the watch has to offer. So as a watch collector with quite some vintage watches like Omega’s,Zenith’s, Mido or Stowa’s (yes we need a antidote 😂), this way I can have more different watches ann enjoy these, compared to selling all my watches to buy one or two new A brand watches.

[@S-Ltd1000]

My experience of Pagani is not great but some people swear by them. I dabbled in homages for a while but always ended up selling them on with the exception of two San Martins I own. One is a sub homage and the other is their interpretation of the vintage Bond Rolex. Both are very well made and at under £200 each they are worth hanging on to.

[@violinmke]

Pagani has been getting better. Their version 3 of the Speedy I bought and is nice.

[@edteach3r]

Excellent video, as always, gentlemen. I have come close to buying Pagani, San Martin, Steeldive and Seestern on a few occasions, but have never been able to pull the trigger. Nonetheless, I love homage watches, most notably my Tudor Heritage Ranger and Heuer Autavia. In terms of affordable watches, Squale and Islander are at the top of my list as both offer something different and punch far above their price. Islander #3 is making its way to me right now! 😊

[@kerrybayton2954]

I have a Gnomon limited edt 39mm Military Submariner & i love it, i could'nt possibly own a real one as i'm not military & Rolex only made 1250 for the MOD in the 70's Steinhart make some great watches, just wear what you like.. I really enjoyed this one thanks..

[@glennharris3862]

The Boyz are back. My absolutely favorite show!!! ⌚

[@dozierstadium]

great video. The yin and yang of tgv against marks pragmatic, engineering, business side is gold. kudos to mark for doing this vid. it takes balls to participate when you have your own lines of watches. of my seiko's casio's Fortis, alpina, citizens, and squale.... the ice blue waffle dial islander samurai is still my fave. 👍 The islander monster sea foam is 2nd.

[@kenrankin5814]

I've bought my share of watches off AliExpress, and I wear my San Martin SN020 (the 39mm first gen "Explorer" homage with the printed dial and vintage lume) almost daily and love it. I also have the Steeldive 1970 and its a great watch for the money, hands down but the next watch I am saving for is the Seiko SNJ025, God knows I have watched a few reviews of that one lol Ali can be a great place to pick a watch up but when I add up the money spent I would have had that Arnie and more. I also own two Islanders that I really love and I recommend LIW to anyone who ask me about buying watches. Great video and glad to see the discussion!

[@nixtr3sharma]

Anyone know what the podcast mentioned at 18:10 is?

[@pilotjpbiv7600]

I am wonder the same thing. Wondering if its Theo and....some other kid?

[@ivermec-tin666]

I must say that Lorier in hand at the recent show in San Francisco really impressed me. So did Nevada Grenchen and FEARS watches. And, VAER never ceases to impress me. My favorite homage that I own is the v1 of the dirty dozen by VAER with the hand wound movement. It faithfully expresses the design language of the original MOD contracted watch in modern materials and with 100m WR. The only niggle is that it doesn't have hacking. That is not really an issue. Back hacking is not brain surgery.

[@RJ-cq8dd]

TGV you always say don't judge what you haven't held in your hands. I have handled many Aliexpress watches and none had debris on the dial and almost none had QC issues.

[@theurbangentry]

Trust me, I only speak from personal experience, unless stated in the video of course. You obviously had better luck than me. Thank you RJ, onwards and upwards! Best regards, TGV

[@laurencehogg6010]

I think time may be a factor here? Just 5 short years ago, ali express watches generally were much poorer than they are now. In fact the progress they've made in the last 5 years is really very surprising and now for some - Baltany and San Martin are the obvious ones - you'll struggle to find a better watch anywhere under 1k.

[@adrianmclure9548]

Very good video and spot in for where “types” of watches and not necessarily brands ranked. A message/request for Marc…I have notification turned on for Islander watches and am waiting for ISL-155 to be in stock again…please make it soon 🙏❤

[@dmt191105]

I have Pagani,Seestern, Chronos, Squale (2014) with a 2824-2 running +3sec/day. I have Rolex,Tudor, Seiko and other micro brands. I still believe that buy what you like period doesn’t matter homage, replica or real thing.

[@TheShane209]

I just was rewatching a older watch talk. I’m very excited for this! Thankyou guys again, now I don’t have to listen to talk radio haha.

[@twstrchasr]

At 24:38 the term you are looking for is a "limiting factor" with off the shelf movements.

[@fossilimprint2954]

Interesting discussion, thank you gentlemen.

[@billsiviter9272]

I have a Bliger Explorer GMT with a SEIKO nh34 movement. it has a great sliding micro adjuster on the bracelet and for £80 it's a bargain. I also have a Steinhart rolex GMT homage with a swiss ETA movement for £250 second hand. Both are great watches keep good time and a fraction of the cost of a Rolex which I never could afford.

[@onemorewatchplease]

I also agree with Marc's point around consistent QA, following Agile methodologies is so much important whilst developing a product for optimal output

[@laurencehogg6010]

Some coverage of Chinese watches on this channel is very welcome - thank you both. A few thoughts: 1 Marc did really well in this video considering the topic was a surprise. 2 I liked the scale of 'homageness' but, to illustrate the axiom that there's nothing new under the sun, your example 10 (a modern Speedmaster) may not be a 10. The original Speedmaster itself could be viewed as a homage to the Rodania Geometer circa 1950. 3 San Martin make many original pieces now. They followed the same path Marc did - learn by copying then do your own. SM clearly want to be a stand alone brand but they're struggling with identity and they need a really good designer. Right now they're morphing into a moonlight brand like Steinhart - except they're better quality and 1/4 the price. 4 SM, Baltany etc shouldn't be grouped with Pagani - especially in terms of QC as they're miles apart. On the flip side, SM et al cant do a ss sports watch with a Seiko movement for 50 quid. I would love you and Marc to cover this because I think it could be disruptive. If you're a 'normal person', why save up and spend more for a warranty etc - at 50 quid, is it essentially disposable? 5 Riesling?????? 😁 Now you're half in this tent, reviews would be a good next step. Try San Martin's very loosely Submersible-ish SN049 or a Baltany - they specialise in small, vintage or military-inspired watches I think you would appreciate. Buy direct from them rather than AE. Take care both.

[@davidmichienzi101]

Really loving the intro TGV, your grandfather looked like a real Gentleman. Still inspiring you and the Gentry to this day 😊

[@CarlosAguila]

I own Pagani's (and Rolexes and Omegas) -- after December of 2020 Pagani Design's over-all quality dramatically improved, bezel, bracelets etc. I keep some and give some away to show off VALUE and get people hooked on watches.