They Made Us Pour This Shed Slab 8" Thick (Wasting Money)

#EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
Eight inch thick concrete shed slab.
In this video we're pouring a concrete slab for a shed. The code enforcement in the town we're working said it had to be 8" thick.
We're not sure why a slab for a shed needs to be that thick but that's what we ended up doing.
A 4" concrete slab is plenty thick enough to support a shed as long as you have a good compacted gravel base.
There's no reason to make it thicker, it's really a waste of good money in my opinion.
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[@1776Angry]

Had friend that was putting a CNC lathe in hi shed. Told the contractor he needed 12". Contractor laughed and did his customary 6". Guess who was out there with jackhammers and a dump bucket. If the customer wants overkill, give them what they ask for.

[@jbtechcon7434]

I hope your friend had everything documented so this cost the contractor a lot.

[@1776Angry]

Yep. Everything was in writing.

[@etimesoyyosemite6673]

Dumb ass know it all contractors, they do it nice because they do it twice, once their lame way and after they jack hammer and remove it, pour the slab the customer ordered.

[@damo8754]

Now I see why your angry 😂

[@randybobandy9828]

So did he get charged and told he would do 12in and did 6 instead?

[@sammencia7945]

Over engineering results in builds that last hundreds of years. Pantheon still has a stable concrete arch roof.

[@uSS-kc7fx]

In many cases an 8" slab is needed for machinery, that may be the whole reason for building a separate building.

[@fredtaylor9792]

It wasn't the customer, it was "code enforcement".

[@Rick-the-Swift]

@@fredtaylor9792 That was all just hearsay. He never specified who "the guy" was who said it, whether it was the customer or an inspector. If I had to guess it was probably the customer who just said it was a code issue so he didn't have to argue with the contractor. Most contractors will bitch and moan if you try to get them to do more than they are accustomed to doing, and all or nearly all 4" slabs I've seen form cracks. 8" inches is for peace of mind and also takes care of most future strength requirements for machinery etc. Putting in an 8" slab just makes good sense. What doesn't make sense is arguing with your customer about it like this guy obviously would have had he thought it was just the customer's desire and not a code issue. I'm guessing the customer is just like me and he doesn't want to have to haggle or kick himself in the butt because he let his contractor try to talk him into getting away with doing a half-ass job, lol.

[@fredtaylor9792]

@@Rick-the-Swift Well this whole thing is heresay so you can pick and choose what you want to go by if you want.

[@Rick-the-Swift]

@@fredtaylor9792 Exactly, I've seen this situation plenty. A contractor only wants to do this, but the customer or zoning wants that. Sometimes customers and site managers play "good cop, bad cop" with the contractor who's dragging their heels on the idea of a little more work than usual. They wait till the last minute and someone springs it on the contractor "Oh btw, we got a last minute call from upstairs and now we need to do this". Don't give the contractor any time to put up a fuss lol. At the end of the day everyone is paid and the building owner/zoning inspector is satisfied.

[@mytech6779]

@@Rick-the-Swift Hell some concrete guy just told my neighbor that using a vibrator/compactor on the crushed rock under a slab "is a waste of time". This is fresh rock, not settled for months. It's a slab for a simple garage, only 4" and they are talking about skipping any reinforcement. I just told my neighbor that I have never heard anyone say that consolidating the subgrade is a waste of time and I would at least add some light steel (maybe like 9guage mesh) just to keep any cracks from shifting and avoid lips or ledges.

[@craig_ramjet990]

Just pour the concrete. If he wants a bomb proof slab let him have it.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

It wasn't the customers decision according to the description....

[@keyworksales6241]

@@peterfitzpatrick7032 there isn't enough information in the description to make that assumption. Even in the comments, the uploader refers to being unsure what the customer is doing with the slab.

[@tristanspahr6164]

@@keyworksales6241 at 1:15, he says the building manager increased it to 8" per the code enforcer. Doesn't sound like a customer decision to me.

[@noobFPV]

Yea, the fuk is he commenting what a customer wants. Do the fin job you are payed for.

[@keyworksales6241]

@@tristanspahr6164 ok Tristan, read the comments. We are talking about the description here

[@waterfallhunter634]

You never know what people are going to do with their shed. My buddy has a CNC mill in his outbuilding.

[@nolongeramused8135]

I was thinking pretty much the same thing. What if he's going to put a small power hammer in the shed? A 3" slab is just going to crack all to hell.

[@renaissanceman5847]

exactly ... a large CNC or even a heavy manual lathe or mill benefits from a solid floor by absorbing the vibration... even a vehicle lift needs thicker floors... add the stress of perhaps a brick veneer...

[@NirtieDigger]

@@nolongeramused8135 well 1st off no one does 3" slabs

[@nolongeramused8135]

@@NirtieDigger I am relieved to hear that.

[@davidhumeston5292]

I mean what if they want to launch rockets of course they need 8 in...🤔😂

[@gerry343]

The customer is always right- as long as you got paid for the extra concrete, then its all good.

[@N942UW]

But it’s not the customers decision. It’s Government bureaucrats creating yet more red tape for completing projects.

[@inthedarkwoods2022]

@@N942UW Someone always blaming the government.

[@rickyracoon3151]

Waste of money... What kind of contractor says that? Clearly he knows the difference between 4 and 8 inches. Does your wife? Because apparently thinking 4 inches is good enough this entire time, just aint your game; and neither is concrete.

[@A6Legit]

@@rickyracoon3151 he said 6 is standard for garages in that area.

[@inthedarkwoods2022]

@blurble923 what a stupid comment

[@alphaviews4639]

I never heard anyone ever complain about how hard & durable their shed slab was.

[@thecoolclips1]

Additionally, a site manager for a shed?

[@stevena3333]

@@thecoolclips1 everyone’s gotta get paid! Lol

[@mytech6779]

I have. Its about 25ft square. This was was the result of a drunken a-hole prior owner and has the added advantage of being out of flat by 2" in 5 feet (not out of level, overall it is level) in every direction from every point.(and this is after he added a layer of patching mortar in the really deep valleys) Actually it is quite a feat to get it that uniformly bad, like a wavy ocean. Also when drilling for shelving anchor bolts I found wide variation in hardness, even within a single hole, though it was mostly very soft/weak no way I could anchor something like a small hoist.

[@Platinum1812]

I have heard people complain how much a new shed will cost them.

[@rivahkillah]

Then you've never had to remove one

[@odbo_One]

My neighbors initially joked me for having thick concert, then they saw what went into my workshop. I love my machine and wood working shop.

[@littlehuey5679]

We did a few slabs like this over the years , found out the they were installing machine the required 8 and 10 inch concrete anchor system!

[@jasenhutchens]

Auto lifts for example

[@kellcomnet]

Vehicle lifts for raising a truck requires a minimum of 6in but recommends 8in

[@Thumbsdwn]

smithing tools (power hammer)

[@mrgreengenes04]

@@kellcomnet a lot of people (if they can afford it) see a 6 inch recommendation, and figure that 8 inches must be better, so why not.

[@rickyracoon3151]

Waste of money... What kind of contractor says that? Clearly he knows the difference between 4 and 8 inches. Does your wife? Because apparently thinking 4 inches is good enough this entire time, just aint your game; and neither is concrete.

[@nittefils2465]

Not only will a 8" slab be capable of supporting heavy machinery (to a degree) but will also be capable of withstanding soft fundation better. I would rather have the slab a little better in situations like this (no ring wall) but if that means 6 or 8" depends on use.

[@jk988]

An extra 2.5 CY, that's less than $300 around here. 10 CY load as opposed to 7.5 CY so it's still one truck as shown. Not the end of the world and the extra material cost is "peanuts" compared with the costs of other materials nowadays... and they get a more robust slab. Not a big deal and not something to shine a negative light on, IMHO.

[@marktrued9497]

Exactly. Why would anyone criticize a customer for overspeccing a job when that customer is willing to pay the differences?

[@grantwilliamstein4180]

@@marktrued9497 Why not 12" then? It's because it's not necessary and only shitty contractors would say that.

[@marktrued9497]

@@grantwilliamstein4180 First, that's not the same thing. That would be a shitty contractor to suggest more when he knows 8 would be adequate. What you're forgetting is that people are really tired of the minimum specs that leave them with cracked driveways and foundations. I cannot fault them for hedging their bets since they are paying both ways.

[@JoeBrinkman66]

@@marktrued9497 He didn’t criticize the customer. He criticized the inspector who made them over spec the slab beyond what was requested by the customer and what was needed for that specific use.

[@marktrued9497]

​@@JoeBrinkman66Yes, and I'm not talking about the inspector.

[@rogfromthegarage8158]

"You can never tell if something is too strong but you can always tell if it's not strong enough." Maybe they want to put in a car lift.

[@wurkanimal]

Sometimes just going thicker with concrete is quicker and easier to raise the elevation than having to bring in more dirt and compact it, especially if you're only talking about several inches. I have used that fiberglass rebar before in a slab for a medical building where an MRI machine was going to sit.

[@thornil2231]

thank you. And formimg around anchoring and such.

[@ttolmbrftttwtbopat]

Absotively.

[@ShaunHensley]

Often when setting equipment we hit rebar, what happens when you need to cut fiberglass rebar?

[@Number1FanProductions]

@@ShaunHensley pulmonary fibrosis

[@kfl611]

hum, rebar adn a mri machine withe super pulling magnetic force........wouldn't it be funny if the mri machine pulled the rebar out of the ground? No, I guess not.

[@damo5219]

Great video. Vapour barrier is there to reduce water seepage up through cracks, which result in salt stains across concrete floor, delaminating of any surface layer on concrete, and mould on any floor coverings. 8" slab is required when the shed will store heavy loads. My 6" reinforced slab cracked after a loaded trailer crossed over it. Those regulations ensure the concrete slab remains fully functional for years to come 👍

[@titzmageex]

Love this channel mike. Been watching by for a few years. Im a dirtboy in the Air Force so I get a lot of good knowledge from your videos.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Awesome, thanks

[@aarongallaty9546]

Man Mike you explain it so well. And your prep is spot on

[@jessiehodges1513]

When the concrete turns black from power toweling here in Western New York we call that "burning the floor" because of the chemical reaction with steel trowel paddles and cement

[@Alamyst2011]

Not to mention the longer winters and ground shift in WNY

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

Why should the customer have justify what he wants to you, as long as he pays for it? Don't expect repeat business, if you criticize the customer, his engineer and the City

[@rivahkillah]

The contractor in these cases is trying to save his customer money. Any contractor that doesn't is a jerk tbh.

[@MartinFinn]

If you watched the video, the customer contracted for a six inch slab then someone (not the customer) attempted to change the plan. If the contractor wasn't questioning this he's not doing his job. What was fairly irrelevant was his opinion on it being overkill as he didn't know the intended use. I would've appreciated his input and opinion.

[@williamfleckenstein7316]

Someone didn't watch the video...

[@SexyJazz]

You guys make it look so simple, excellent work gentlemen!!

[@diannemaegonzales3326]

sir, these time lapses lowkey satisfy me istg...!! thank you for the knowledge, SIR!!

[@danf6975]

You should never go as thin as 4 inches 5 inches gives you over 89% more strength for only 20% more material

[@rekostarr7149]

good to know!

[@ickster23]

Depends what it's for. My patio, which won't have a car or anything heavy on it, is 5 inches sloping to 4 over 15' for drainage. Remember, minimizing concrete also reduces environmental impact.

[@chichidouglas5078]

90% of the slab isn't load bearing.

[@dust7962]

@@ickster23 remember degradation due to erosion require more maintenance.

[@MrStaybrown]

My neighbor has 4 inch concrete runners for a double wide foundation 😳. They went cheap, now the double wide is settled uneven, compromised walls and roof.

[@trevordavis2760]

Mike Day , you might want to come visit Germany if you think that was an over kill. Flooring over here is no less then 6 mostly 8. Plus two layer of rebar. Most of their homes are all concrete, which is reallly nice! (Once heated they stay heated (Certainly easier to keep warm) once cooled stays cool) They have build shows, you might want to come see a few, it will only improve your knowledge.

[@RobertLinthicum]

Most USA structures would blow away in a storm, and many do. The construction standards are very low relative Germany.

[@normanbackzkiewicz4786]

Wow city wAnts to overcile? Words not spelled on purpose Karen

[@robertwhesterjr1142]

NO OVERKILL. IT WAS PERFECTLY WORKED. GREAT JOB FELLAS.RESPECT FROM BALTIMORE,MD CONCRETE BOB!!!

[@mojavegold-]

Thanks for the post - informative, as always! We are getting ready to pour an 8 inch slab - a 50 foot octagonal. But it's set up as a helipad to accomodate E-VeToLs and larger helicopters, only for occasional use.

[@richardthomas1566]

In texas we use 4# but almost always use #4 bars 12” O.C and at least 24” deep x12” wide beam at the perimeter and every 12 feet

[@lonestardiyboyz6610]

8 inch thick concrete is perfect for a two post lift.

[@muddman4193]

Bullshit!! 4in is plenty!!

[@farfrumugen]

Most loft manufacturers give a minimum recommended thickness of 4.25 inches. 8 is unnecessary

[@lonestardiyboyz6610]

@@muddman4193 by all means stand under a 5000 pound truck supported by a lift anchored to just 4 inches of concrete.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Maybe that's what they're doing and they didn't tell me, haha

[@justinshields4216]

@@lonestardiyboyz6610 I'd cut that out for a 24-30" deep footing

[@frisc45]

knowing your shed can house some good heavy machinery in the future is a relaxing thought. maybe a little hobby workshop or something. Great video thanks for sharing

[@eshskis1]

Great video ! Fantastic job with the narration !

[@grumpyaustralian6631]

Depends on the use for the shed in the long term, I had an old farrier anvil drop about 8 foot from an engine hoist once, admittedly because i was dumb and didn't secure it properly. It went straight through the concrete into a foam box inside the slab, unique case? Almost certainly, but it goes to show that not everything always goes to plan in a work space, better safe than sorry and digging an anvil out of a concrete hole with a jackhammer... That said, this is not a very large shed and i doubt it will be under that much stress, but you never know when an idiot like me will come along and do somthing real dumb.

[@asamitchell7948]

Some shop machinery requires a thick enough pad to resist vibrations. I know if you operating a black smiths shop some power hammers the bugger ones require 10inch thick

[@blazingtrees4204]

also thanks for helping me get better at finshing concrete and all the little tips you give out

[@petem6291]

mike you do really nice work and have the correct tools to do a very professional job

[@DavesShed]

I had this in New Zealand once, years ago. I got the engineering for free from a family member. Which was lucky because he pointed out the slab would have to be thicker than normal due to what was right next to it. I didn't even realise there was anything particularly unusal about my site. So I did the calculations and ordered the quanity of concrete for that deisgn. The guy turned up and then tried to talk me about of using his whole truck load, telling me it was over engineered. It was pretty obvious he had another small job he was trying to get to the same day and so was trying to use less on my job. I was young and he was trying to bully me out of using the full amount. I got close to losing my cool to be honest. I was about to ask him where he got his engineering PhD degree from, that he could overrule my engineered plan. Instead I just kept repeating; that is what the engineer specified, that is the form I made, that is what is going to be installed and that is what we are going to show the engineer - until he got the bloody message. Normally, it all depends on the potential soil movement but as in my case there can be other factors. Plus you don't know what they intend to put in there. That slab in the video has no piers - like most shed slabs - so perhaps the engineer thought it would just be easiler for a small area to make it thicker and not have to worry about it. Sometimes it is just cheaper to use more material and over engineer something than to precisely engineer it.

[@BillJBrasky]

What did the guy want you to do? Rework your forms while the concrete sat in the truck?

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

“ Sometimes it is just cheaper to use more material and over engineer something than to precisely engineer it.” I learned something new today!

[@DavesShed]

@@BillJBrasky Yeah I know! He wanted me to somehow level it inside the form. It made no sence. He just thought he could bully a young customer. It was never said - but pretty obvious, even to me, he wanted to use part of my order to go off and do another small job.

[@klk1900]

They never mentioned an engineer. He’s saying code enforcement. Code enforcement is a random guy with little to no training. All the ones I’ve worked with. They are mostly ex cops that became code enforcers for more money. I’m a mechanical engineer but tilted towards structural my brother is a petroleum engineer. For the last 10yrs I use synthetic or steel fibers Also other fillers. I don’t pour anything under 10,000psi. I just experimented with 25,000 psi and I’ve got test blocks as high as 37,000psi. For reference normal concrete like in this video it’s most likely 4,000psi. Now the main thing 8” would be completely crazy if you pour a 12’x10’x8” @ 12,000psi and all you store in the shed is a mower, weed eater, shovels, & tank of gas. But 12’x10’x8” @4,000psi. It’s definitely over kill in the real world 99% of the time. But it’s also 4,000psi. I refuse to pour 4,000psi when it’s so simple to make high strength concrete.

[@klk1900]

Load factors im speaking of. You will have certain codes depending on location and political climate that calls for a lot of stuff that literally has zero to do with load factors. Because of the requirement in this video asking for a vliner. It looks more like this is a requirement for environmental freaks. Apparently the state has a lot of irresponsible adults that dump toxic fluids and chemicals all over the place. It’s like one guy shits himself so everyone has to wear diapers type of deal.

[@fishsticks850]

Sounds like they might be enforcing a code relating to the water table if it has to be the same height as the main structure.

[@johnnaughton2364]

Thanks for showing us, I didn't know how this was done.

[@NutmegThumper]

Nice video. Thinking they are planning to make that a garage down the road.

[@charisseglen9639]

Ca code is 8” above grade for siding so foundation needs to be at least 8” so that might be what they were thinking. You could probably do a 12”w x 8” thick at the form and then build the middle with gravel to 4or 5 “ you could save some mud.

[@markmyers4573]

Technically the base at perimeter is supposed to be 12" below grade as well.

[@rivahkillah]

I don't think this is in CA though

[@markmyers4573]

@@rivahkillah IBC & IRC codes have minimum frost depth of 12", which is supposed to be the minimum level for the bottom of a structural footing. Every state uses the IRC & IBC as the basis for their own building codes. Maybe some Southern states allow shallower footings if they never experience any substantial winter freeze.

[@homesteadhaven2010]

@@markmyers4573 in Southern Mississippi it's 6 inches... I made my footings 24"x 24"....

[@kenweis2291]

Well they wanted 6" so they said 8" and they probably got 7" lol

[@randymarko486]

GREAT video... Manly Man work with no attitude. Well done...... A pleasure to watch.

[@wellingtonmonteiro9661]

Love your videos, from one labour to another 💪🏼 🇨🇦

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks 👍

[@adammacer]

Plastic under a slab isn't a 'vapour barrier' - it's a 'damp-proof membrane'. It's not there to prevent vapour from internal occupants/activity passing thru into the ground, but to prevent damp in the ground from rising into the slab.

[@bpdp379]

Did you know Band-aids have never once in recorded history ever helped out a band….true story!

[@obviousness8113]

I'm not disagreeing with you, but I've heard "vapor barrier" hundreds of times and I have never once heard of "damp-proof membrane." Maybe it depends on your location.

[@adammacer]

​@@obviousness8113 Yup, it's a British term.. I guess it's probably because they often use the same poly for a DPM as they do for a VB - at least that's what I've seen in Canada. In the UK it's a heavier material. But this kinda thing is rife in the industry where part-knowledge, and lack of interest in learning, means that things get given the wrong name by one person, another picks up on it, etc. I had one crew trying to tell me that the 1/2" strapping/battens they were applying to a wall were called 'rainscreen', oblivious to the fact that that term applies to a system not a component.

[@willybrubaker3589]

Also things like Radon gas, here in North America anyway.

[@obviousness8113]

@@adammacer Goodness, don't get me started on proper terminology. I work in Compliance and my organization has so many similar-sounding terms! No one takes the time for proper nomenclature and it drives me crazy!

[@jaredcardenas813]

Number 3 fiberglass is as strong as number 4 steel, wow. Pretty incredible stuff that fiber glass is.

[@mvs3246]

This is a dangerous marketing claim. Fiberglass has higher tensile strenght, but it has also much higher strain (elongation) at load. The last makes a fiberglass rebar inferior to a steel rebar for a normal (not prestressed) reinforced concrete. A steel rebar should not be blindly replaced with a fiberglass rebar (even with the same gauge)!

[@stephenbrickwood1602]

Excellent insights. Now people can understand what they are paying for. And appreciate good value. This keeps the corner cutting 'shonks' out of the bussiness. It also stops under pricing and the stealing of work from genuine contractors.

[@dsm9785]

Looks great! I did residential work in Massachusetts for about 8 years, footings,walls, slabs etc. don’t miss it, but appreciate the knowledge gained. Yes, 8” does seem a bit much. I could see if he wanted the edge 8”or 12” for support, but the inside area could be the same as a garage floor. That’s a nice size shed

[@joer9276]

Wish I could find someone this good in my area!

[@Thumbsdwn]

wya?

[@tkramar6372]

Be careful using it with PEX for floor heat. It isn't heavy enough to hold down PEX full of air. My shop floor PEX started to float right out of the concrete with plastic chairs as we poured. I'll use the brick type chairs next time.

[@dr.pineapple8495]

I never expected to be watching people pour concrete. This is nice.

[@glennfelpel9785]

Very nice work!!! Thank you for the video too.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You're welcome Glenn!

[@kellyinfanger9192]

I tell my customers that drying is different than curing. In fact, I tell them if it dries too quick; it prematurely stops the curing process. That is why I have become convinced of the value of cure & seal on outside work to lock in the moisture for the curing process to mature. Rapidly drying surfaces are one of the major causes of spalling. Inside a building where the wind and the sun are controlled; the need for cure & seal isn't as essential.

[@cyclingboss469]

Slowly curing makes for stronger concrete with higher compressive strength. Anything that can be done to make that process a little longer is generally a good thing.

[@bones6554]

I sprayed my concrete 14'x 40' driveway to my building with water two or three times a day for a week. It's been 15yrs and all it has is a couple of hair line cracks.

[@glasshalffull8625]

In Virginia back in the ‘60s, the concrete guys would put straw down and wet it and then cover with plastic. Then you would spray it a couple times a day for a week.

[@royhorn2782]

Curing compound is really only needed for windy days or hot dry days. You don't want the surface to dry/cure any faster than what's underneath it. Also don't use poly sheeting as a barrier between the fill said and the concrete. It will retain excess water and can cause cracking. You should always prehydrate your base before pouring. That is sufficient to prevent over absorption of water from the concrete.

[@kevinjustice5102]

Been using fiberglass rebar for last year it’s really nice and light can load a lot on the trucks. Been watching your channel for awhile improving myself thanks keep up the good work mike and crew

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks 👍

[@aaronsoto4622]

damn...absolutely professionally done. !

[@ernestogonzalez17]

that looks smooth bro

[@daily_word6437]

This is the standard in NZ any pour with structural elements requires a minimum of 250mm thick slab 12 mm mesh 75 mm cover either side of mesh Great work guys good to see someone that knows how to use a rake makes it easy for whoever is screeding

[@Fekillix]

"All concrete cracks eventually" is something I always hear in these US videos. If a concrete contractor said that here I'd find another one. If it cracks you didn't do your ground works right.

[@joer8854]

@@Fekillix The earth shifts constantly. Cement is good in compression, terrible in tension. Some places are more stable than others, and it depends on how big the slab is. I had a guy ask me to pour a slab 12" thick for his shed. I did warn him it was way overkill for a tin shed but it was no problem. I wouldn't say "all concrete cracks eventually" I would say, "the bigger the slab and the more unstable the ground the more the slab will crack."

[@ignusa749]

biz 101 here! the customer is always right when they want extra heavy duty! as long as the customer is willing to pay the extra.... go for it! looks kinda skimpy on the rebar! plastic or not i would to have had more in there.

[@feanedhell]

Seeing you flatten it is very satisfying

[@jbstepchild]

Great job good team work that's how's it's done interesting underlay never used it before

[@dannyboy2180]

Odell complete concreting has been using fiberglass reo for a while, with fiberglass micro mesh poured into the mix when the truck turns up. What was the price for the extra 3 yards? What mpa/psi strength was the concrete?

[@thornil2231]

fiberglass micromesh doesn't trowel too well does it?

[@dannyboy2180]

@@thornil2231 Not sure mate.

[@jimglass5892]

Living in New Zealand and it's earthquake and steep terrain we put vastly more steel into a pad like that. Steel mesh 4" X 4" 1/8 to 1/4" rod two layers with rebar at strategic points. Even a pedestrian footpath around the house needs to be 4" with steel 4x4 mesh to last the years I assume anywhere. Given the overall investment extra reinforcement is cheap insurance.

[@winstonsmithsoul]

I haven’t seen this fiberglass reinforcement used in NZ. I wonder if we will get to use it, much easier than rebar.

[@chrisretired5379]

Great video, thank you ! Is that rebar fiberglass, or possibly that basalt rebar ?

[@StocksFarm]

8 inch is quite a bit for a shed. I used to drive a mixer truck. It was a decent gig and was fun to learn about concrete but the contractors we worked with were always very high strung and tried to keep every scenario as stressful as possible. I eventually had enough of it and quit but it taught me alot for my own projects later on.

[@empirestate8791]

Never even knew there's code enforcement for a simple backyard shed!

[@loknloll]

I think any shed bigger than 8'x10' needs a permit, and therefore an inspection.

[@fryloc359]

Where i live if its more than 200square feet its subject to building codes.

[@ricklee9473]

Permit revenue adds up . They'd make a permit for a mailbox post if they could get away with it. Im waiting for it

[@byb-bangforyourbuck2353]

what type of concrete bolts did you insert? and WHEN in the process did you push them into the uncured concrete?

[@wesleypayne1846]

Just standard anchor bolts usually in an L shape. As for when, you insert them when the concrete is just getting hard enough to support them so they stay upright and straight. But not so late that you can't jiggle them and get cream to fill the hole around it

[@brentbarnett9224]

Anchor bolt/ J bolt

[@e.l.robbins5614]

Thanks for the fine work.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks.

[@garageworker]

That slab would be a dream for a small machine shop.

[@UmerKhan-gw7ud]

Man that shed slab is meant to stay forever.. 😀

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You're right, yes.

[@thegang3551]

Code enforcement? 8”? I put down slabs for this kind of shed pretty often and the code is 4” slab with 1’x1’ footers. Edit: Good job on the flat work. Looks like a nice even plane.

[@Eric-xh9ee]

Yeah the code probably is only talking about the footings and this guy probably doesn't know how to read the code properly. I see this often

[@markmark7342]

looks good mike ....question if this was going to be a heated slab and you were going to used 2"ridged around the perimeter what would be the best way to attach the insulation? if you happen to have a vid of this please direct me to it....thanks in advance (subscribed) mark

[@JoeR203]

I plan on getting out of Connecticut and moving to South Carolina. I know it may be cheaper down there, but what is the cost of a standard thickness slab for a shed that is around the size you're doing in this video?

[@pubzman69]

I don’t understand that extra 3 yards of concrete is minimal for the life of the pad, it’s cheap on my opinion % maybe some day they will decide to park something there , as a landscape contractor I go to a lot of homes I see all these 4 inch slabs look like shit in 10 years - or less , I would want my slab extra thick .

[@strongholds12]

You do what you're told, buddy. You do what you're fking told!

[@joshlayne2178]

I've used the fiberglass rebar in some countertops. It definitely keeps the weight down

[@Grendelbc]

What height was that rebar at? Looks like about 2" and your guys and stepping on it as they pour.

[@JDseller1]

I guess I am the oddball. LOL I have NEVER stated after I poured a slab or footing " I sure wish it was thinner". Here on the farm I do not care if it is just a cattle yard it is going to be 8 inch minimum. My shop floor is 12 inches thick and it does not have a single crack in the 19 years it has been there.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Like in the video, if it has a proper sub-base and compaction, 8" is overkill and a waste money for this application.

[@ChipsPlace1952]

Mike, Is 28 days the correct amount of time share for s full cure? Thanks Chip Great vids.....Chicago area

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Full cure is 28 days yes.

[@mikejohnson9118]

there is a curve to it. I think in 7 days it's about 70%. Depending the pour/weather/sun. 14 days gives you ~80%.

[@mumblesbadly7708]

Mike, looks like your crew does good work.

[@dokmanian]

great explanation

[@MattNis1]

A foot of gravel? That’s very good.

[@kalebunruh6893]

We used fiber rebar 1 time but never after that! Maybe we’ll start using it more in the future idk

[@MikeDayConcrete]

I'm really liking it.

[@performancedownunder5773]

Finally get to see someone who knows what they're doing. I did think the slump was a bit wet to begin with but it came back fairly quickly. The plastic membrane may help to bring moisture to the surface working the concrete but that helps to remove air bubbles too though I'd prefer to see a vibrator used. Pulling off the formwork asap I think is great because it offers the opportunity to finish the side of the slab. Should be able to take some weight when it's cured a slab that thick won't be blowing a way in a hurry. If it's in the tornado belt area I'd be digging a small shelter underneath it. Thanks for that.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You're welcome!

[@stonemoonjoseph1407]

The best part was the guy in the very beginning with the 7 shirt! Thinking, he was going to man the chute. Go get your rake man

[@warrenlucier5796]

I can see 8" around the perimeter for a monolithic slab and 6" for the rest of the slab as an option. I'm going to build a home in New Hampshire using basalt rock rebar for superior strength and no corrosion which causes the concrete to crack. I will have to use steel in the areas where bends are required, as the fibers lose there strength when used in this manner. My plan is an insulated monolithic slab (garage/basement) and the walls will be 10" Perfect Block. The roof is going to be a gambrel and will be the living area in this build.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Sounds good!

[@kipcarroll5644]

You may have addressed this, but after you added to the depth, was it a problem that it now is not matching the height of the house ?

[@dollarbielsyall]

I was wondering about that too

[@sethwatson8952]

The way I took it, they had to add the 2" specifically to match the height of the other building. I'm wondering why, though?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You're right, it's just what the building manager wanted. He thought he needed the extra height to slope the driveway away. But he already had enough in my opinion.

[@pu5epx]

Greetings from Brazil. Fiberglass rebar is starting to show up here as well. Really curious to see whether they will take over steel.

[@francoisvanderberg6482]

Please show the people how you do your on site testing of your product. Etc, slump test, mix design and test cube making!

[@statementleaver8095]

A Concrete layer shouldn't be concerned about depth of customers requests. Time,Payment and a Job well done should be the only concerns 👍

[@icarusamerica3436]

Needs more rebar, the cost is minimal but well worth it.

[@deepblue8442]

nice walk in the park for the boys on a hot day!

[@BrandonTran]

Who knows the use cases he may have. Vapor barrier could help with ground moisture seepage in case he ever wants to put an hvac in to park his WW2 tank in to protect it from humidity. Nicely done with the added 2”. I thought you were going to say you ripped it out and rebuilt. Nicely done as always!

[@cdawg9149]

Can you do a video on how rebar works in a slab. My argument is it is just for tensile strength and not compressive strength. Also my experience shows a well compacted base is the best prevention for minimal cracking.

[@WraithlingRavenchild]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYusf5iXec-cqbs

[@cyclingboss469]

Your steel is for tension where concrete has no strength. It also controls cracks so that cracks do not open up and are contained.

[@cyclingboss469]

Also yes the base is absolutely critical. Compacted crushed rock that is angular (no round rock, no pea gravel) is what is needed on top of well compacted soils. Your structure is only good on top of a good foundation and your foundation is only good on top of stable subgrade and base.

[@roseanneroseannadanna9651]

Concrete is a science. It is the most used construction medium as it is the most fluid to form with.

[@royhorn2782]

Don't pour on rebar late in the day especially during summer. It will crack the pour and you will be able to see where every stick of rebar is because, the cracks will follow the rebar underneath. The fiberglass rebar would probably alleviate that problem however since it would not absorb the sun's heat like iron rebar does.

[@danielkarcher9574]

I don't believe it's overkill. My 20x30 is 18x16 haunch and 7 inch center. With double rebar- top- bottom haunch with wire mesh and fibre mesh. Over due it..why redo it? Nice

[@MikeDayConcrete]

If you've got the money, spend it!

[@Onlinesully]

very organised, nicely done. lovely base

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks

[@Onlinesully]

@@MikeDayConcrete ah sure you’re welcome

[@hafetysazard]

Mike what kind of slab would you need in a garage for large heavy machine tools, lathe, milling machine, hoist, anything super heavy

[@whommee]

Just starting to use Fiber re-bar here,, all code officials haven't bought into it yet,, I love the stuff .

[@uomoman8775]

If it’s stamped approved by an engineer what can they say?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

I agree!

[@user990077]

Fiberglass rebar cannot be separated with a magnet when the concrete is getting processed in a crusher for recycling into road base.

[@gregorysampson8759]

Um, ok..

[@MikeDayConcrete]

I only worry about installs, recycling is someone else's business.

[@triztimedrks7896]

@@MikeDayConcrete exactly lol

[@adammacer]

Prolly makes no difference if a bit of fibreglass ends up in road base

[@TRENDewyZ]

Don’t you pay extra for fiberglass added to concrete?

[@350zee1]

Does that fiberglass rebar eliminate all the issues metal rebar causes? I have a 10x10, 20 inches tall concrete block to build infront of my door, and also back step footings ect, curbing

[@buckbuck9225]

I build pools down in the keys and we never heard of fiber rebar.sounds great.i imagine you cant bend it tho.?

[@donaldhollingsworth3875]

I know when the concrete slab was poured the concrete contractor's power troweled the 4 " slab of my house the next day. I have no idea what type of concrete they used. I would have liked a 6" - 8" slab looking back. There is a lot of weight of the house transferred to the slab, well over 2-3 tons. My garage floor slab has several cracks in it since it is only 4" thick. Since in south east North Carolina you have to have J bolts in every cavity plus hurricane braces every where from the the slab to the studs or bottom plate & the studs to the roof trusses. Are they fiberglass rebar stronger than normal coated steel rebar or wire mesh? Do you recommend cutting expansion slots in the slab if it is 6" - 8" thick?

[@matthamilton5902]

I build commercial buildings so the thought of putting a house on a 4" slab is insane to me. The only thing we ever pour 4" thick is sidewalks. But your garage cracking can be caused by a thin slab, not enough rebar, poor subgrade (which is really scary), or a bad mix.

[@donaldhollingsworth3875]

@@matthamilton5902 Thank you for the information. The subgarde is just dirt using wire mesh.

[@matthamilton5902]

@@donaldhollingsworth3875 Dirt is fine as long as it's the right kind. Was it a light brown or red? Or was it dark brown to black? Light brown indicates lime and red indicates clay. Either are fine if mechanically stabilized properly. The darker the soil, the more organic material there is. Organic material will break down and change the shape and compaction of the soil. Sometimes you can chemically stabilize with lime, cement kiln dust, fly ash, etc. But black soil, it's great to grow plants, but I wouldn't put my house on it. If you have a really good subgrade and strong concrete mix, wire mesh can be an option but I wouldn't do it. Rebar or post tension cables are a much better option.

[@donaldhollingsworth3875]

@@matthamilton5902 The soil is black. When it rains the soil is super wet and does it smeel but when the soil is dry it is like digging through concrete. I think this has to do that the subdivision was built on drained wetlands.

[@chichidouglas5078]

The slots you asked about aren't for expansion. Those are control joints and they're used to hide the cracks by controlling where it's going to crack from shrinkage. It cracks underneath the joints because that's the point least resistance. If you don't have any joints in your floor that's why you see cracks. You get better results when you cut them in when it's wet and it looks better imo but saw cuts are easier and some times the only way possible. Concrete is going to crack no matter how thick it is but unless you're a finisher or another trade in the industry there's no reason to know that so most people think the cracks are structural. But it's usually just from sloppy work and inexperience. Structural cracks usually spread apart or sink and become uneven and some times they stop but they usually get bigger

[@mytech6779]

#3 glass is equivalent to #4 steel? Sounds like some pretty stretched marketing wank to me. I'm not a phD but I do have a fair background in material science and the basics simply do not add up. Especially since the tensile stiffness, thermal expansion, and energy absorption(in failure) are more important in passive concrete reinforcement then yield or ultimate strengths; the energy absorption of mild steel in a controlled failure is far superior, but only comes into play when the concrete has already failed in a major way and you just want to prevent a complete catastrophic brittle failure.(This mainly applies to above grade columns and beams in earthquake areas.) As for basic normal load strengths, to get the same tensile stiffness for minimizing cracks, assuming 100% glass packing (not remotely plausible to manufacture, but a best case.) you would need 2.5x the cross sectional area of glass(1.6x diameter) compared to steel. On a specific modulus basis(stiffness to weight) the glass could be about 20% lighter than steel. In reality the 20-40% resin in the glass rod will eliminate the specific modulous advantage and the cross sectional area of glass fiber rod would be closer to 3.6x with a total weight equal to steel rebar. For thermal expansion portland cement concrete (PCC) ranges from about 8 to 12 microstrains/°C and steel 11-12 making a very good match, glass is only 3-5 so temperature change will create stresses between the glass fiber rods and concrete. Glass fiber has some advantages in certain applications for sure, but I'm not convinced it is a "stronger" reinforcing rod. It may be very suitable for post tension applications as the modulus is less of a factor and it won't rust if exposed. But while strong bases(Ca hydroxide formed in concrete) passivate steel, they attack glass. Though GF rod inherently has a polymer binder-coating likely making the basic pH issue insignificant, assuming the maker didn't mistakenly select an incompatible polymer. I don't know much about the bond or grip of concrete on glass fiber rods as compared to normally textured steel rebar, I imagine is can be textured to be similar.

[@unknown3313]

that's how they sell it. 7x the tensile strength of steel. D.O.T. approved so I'm all in with the stuff

[@joelhuber6407]

@@unknown3313 The FRP bars are significantly stronger, but the material's properties and behavior are very different. The FRP bars strain significantly more than steel under stress. (In technical terms, the Young's Modulus is significantly lower in FRP bars). That means a FRP slab will exhibit much more cracking for the same loading condition as a slab with regular rebar. Usually to get the same cracking performance out of the FRP bars, you have to put twice as many of them in. The DOT's that use FRP bars usually are doing for corrosion resistance and not strength.

[@robertschulke1596]

Have you ever used basalt rebar/remesh? I hear it’s better around salt water.

[@martyncotton5740]

Good job 😎👍