Theyyam: The spiritual dance of Kerala India

During the early part of year, Theyyams are one of the most exciting, enthralling and absorbing spectacles to see in Kerala.
In a pleasing (to my Western mind) turnabout, the lowest caste members literally become the embodiment of God on earth. During this time they are free to dispense wisdom, advice, and blessings (for a fee) to all those who attend.
The role is inherited, passed down from father to son, with young boys practicing for hours and years until they have gained the physical, emotional and psychological strength to take on the role.
Performances last for several hours, usually beginning in the early hours of the morning, with public rituals of make up, and dressing, before the dancing begins. Costumes weigh approx 50 kilos, and this head dress running to around 6 metres tall. Once the costumes are aflame, the God dances around the temple, calling out advice, and shouting comments on the behaviour of the community and individuals.
During this appearance, the performer brushed past me on his way over to bless an old lady, and the energy was stunning. It literally knocked me to one side, and left me gasping for breath.
This appearance began at around 4am, and continued through the darkness of very early morning, the performer sometimes running, sometimes dancing, hurling himself around the inside of the temple grounds. The audience is moved to ecstatic raptures, getting as close to the burning flames as possible.
And then, quite suddenly, as the sun comes up, the people melt away, and it's over. Like waking from a dream, I was left wondering how much was real, and how much some kind of crowd-induced spell.
Catherine Annis
Scaravelli Inspired Yoga Teacher
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