This CHEAP MOD fixes the MX-5 Miata's biggest problem

[@vfrbore1728]

Jack you're a natural in front of the camera. Really nice video and good to see a nice increase in performance on the MX-5.

[@SilverDomUK]

Was never meant to be a boy racer's car. It does not need masses of power as it handles so well you can throw it around and have loads of fun with the standard car. The 2L is fine, 0-60 doesnt mean much when you can throw it round country lanes and still scare yourself silly if you want! The biggest and best mod is the nut behind the wheel!

[@GTFour]

Yup, can confirm, I got a titanium steering wheel nut and it transformed steering weight

[@vapid8421]

whats this? i am interested

[@AK_0000]

I think tbf modifying it isn’t for ‘boy racers’ the mx5 has always been a fantastic base to build your sports car from

[@FermentedGrumpyGrapeSqueezit]

Who cares you pretentious ppl always telling other ppl what they should do with their stuff

[@yeetusdeletus9]

Sure 167hp is good enough for this car, but an exhaust manifold and a tune gives it a bit more pep in its step and its a lot happier pulling to higher rpm's

[@piotrmalewski8178]

167 HP is decent for a car this weight. What makes relatively 'low' power Miata great is that on track or rally stage you can relatively easily learn effective rwd driving techniques that require respecting speed and keeping as much pendulum while entering the corner as possible, because the power will not overwhelm you too much when you hit the throttle again. In old school rallying even weaker cars were going through corners with slight drift that was not a result of power, but a result of going a 'too' fast into the corner and then throwing the car in, to use grip of all 4 wheels to the maximum and preserve as much pendulum as possible.

[@feastmode7931]

I grew up around steep, winding mountain roads and watched young drivers in overpowered cars either struggle or flat-out crash. Meanwhile, I'm ripping my Miata at the limit and enjoying every second. It's more fun this way, imo.

[@timrodierides]

Love it! Can’t believe the difference. Mooooore

[@NicholasLettevanOostvoorne]

Fab video mate! Car sounds like a great little package. Can't wait to see what's next (cough, ITBs, cough).

[@cdebutler]

Great results! Wish I knew that when I had mine…

[@nolahahnshouse3389]

Only makes 160 hp😂😂😂 better than 116hp if the na even makes that!

[@tjscotton]

😂 at least the NA has pop-ups

[@becauseiwasinverted7971]

Hmmm. Did you get it dyno'd at same place when stock to see if it was a just sympathetic dyno (e.g. Stock it might have also read high ~170). Don't think I've ever seen one quoted at 194hp with just the manifold. BBR super 200 nets you about 205hp on their dyno but I think in reality it's a bit lower possibly not even breaking 200

[@tjscotton]

No I didn’t actually, that’s a good point. If the opportunity presents itself to dyno the car elsewhere to see what number it makes I will report back 😃

[@1061shrink1061]

I think in 90% of the cases the 200 kit isn't worth it, because the Cams lose you power at the bottom. I'd only do the cams, if i was they going to fit the full ITB kit, as that helps bring back the torque that the cams lose out on. The full 220/225 kit is the dog bollocks, but very expensive to throw onto an NC. Value for money, just fitting the manifold, even without a tune is hard to beat!

[@1061shrink1061]

I really need to hurry up and do this on mine. on track the exhaust restriction feels hugely noticeable and you can feel the car struggling to make decent power. There's so much strength and potential in the NC2/NC3 engine, it just needs a helping hand to do so.

[@PyroPlays]

Nice little video, subscribed to see what's next for your NC

[@Mx5modified]

Great video and nice comparison 👌🏻 definitely the best performance mod without spending thousands

[@lwv52]

Woah those are really nice numbers! Good job

BBR 200 is definitely worth it. And the 225 kit is worth it even more.

[@WalkinSalmon]

Alex and Co at performance link are quality. Built my mx5 from the ground up full restoration.

[@matiascastro7856]

Hey man, Curious about your suspension and rims. Could you pkease share what modifications have you done to it and what wheels are those? Really like the look and height of your NC :)

[@demon1954]

Decatted manifolds are available elsewhere too. And those vendors might provide some after sales service.

[@1061shrink1061]

yeah, BBR aren't doing themselves many favours these days, plenty other good support out there.

[@jacksonbermingham2168]

get the lightest flywheel u can get.. its easy best the performance upgrade

[@SkateEverythingProject]

*IF* you don't drive on hills...

[@jacksonbermingham2168]

@@SkateEverythingProject lighter is faster. always will be .. u should change your diff ratio if ur worried about lack of acceleration

[@SkateEverythingProject]

@@jacksonbermingham2168 Well said. I'm learning that if your gearing is correct that it would be an overall better option. The issue that I have and I would wager many people have is that aside from changing your final drive it's really hard / expensive to "correct" your gearing for performance. Most street cars are built for efficiency because they are using the base model transmission geared for target mpg dictated by Gov. requirements of efficiency. I live in NC mountains and my gearing in my 500 Abarth is so long that a lightened flywheel would make actually the engine work harder on long sweeping uphills. My plan is to change out my final drive eventually but I'm gonna throw in an LSD while I'm in there and I have to save quite a bit more for that mod. If you can afford it them I agree rotating mass should *always* have "lightness added" ;)

[@loweeer88]

Thanks for this video! How do you solved both O2 sensors pls? Grettings from Czech Republic. :-)

[@Andy-xs3ld]

I'm curious, when you do a cat delete, what happens at MOT?

[@jamie7025]

Have you got a mate that does mot’s or will you change it back at mot time?

[@1061shrink1061]

the NC has a secondary cat, and as long as the MOT station don't go looking for the first cat (it's normally behind engine covers and heat shields anyway), the car will pass emissions just fine on the single CAT.

[@daz19956]

Wondering if this catt-less version causes MOT failure for emissions? Considering this upgrade too, but from the BBR site, mentions that it will cause emissions MOT failure and recommends the catted version for £250 more

[@tjscotton]

For me, my car passed. I got it quite hot before going which may have helped but as BBRs site suggests - there’s no guarantee it will pass. There is still a centre cat so it isn’t a total decat

[@MattMeredith1999]

Mine failed at MOT for this reason

[@Masonp83]

Why didn't you do one pre manifold

[@metartalo]

Nice video. Is it the bbr remap? With this information i am thinking on buying a NC miata instead of an ND. I like both, but the ND is lot more expensive. Thanks for sharing.

[@tjscotton]

It isn’t a BBR remap, it was done by a company called Performance link. I’d recommend the NC over the ND personally, I’ve had both and I have found the NC to be bigger inside, less issues (despite being older) and just generally being the better car overall. I was actually planning to do a video about this exact topic, so keep your eyes out for that 😃

[@metartalo]

Thanks. 5 months later i have sold my Bmw m135i and looking for an NC miata. 😂.

[@cgarmstrongTV]

@@tjscottonI’ve getting an NC soon and am very excited. Currently have a BMW E88 convertible and can’t wait to get some proper handling! Any wheel / tyre recommendations? Will be my daily and only car year round.

[@tjscotton]

@@cgarmstrongTV nice. id suggest doing suspension before wheels, ideally. As youll notice the biggest improvement in handling with that over a wheel/tyre package. (assuming the one you buy isnt on linglong ditchfinders)

[@performancelink]

Performance link woohoo 🥳

[@luiscamino]

May I ask what's the size of the RPF1s and tyres?

[@mystikmeg]

This is really inspiring video. I have an NC2 in the same colour. No mods (yet). I want some cheapish lightweight alloys first as my wheels are shot. Any ideas for good value lighter alloys?

[@tjscotton]

To be honest, lightweight and also cheap are not often two things you can achieve at the same time. But perhaps if you look for some used Enkei RPF1’s you might get what you are looking for!

[@AnnaScotton]

Love this! Maybe I could do this!

[@uofmemphis11]

The only time I’ve ever lamented being 6’2” is when I have to get into/a situation concerns a Miata. I understand it’s a perfectly built sports car with adequate power and they’re perfectly balanced (as all things should be 🔪). But I just don’t fit into them. Every time I pull one into our install bay, I have to cram myself into the driver’s seat and it’s an act of congress to get my right knee tucked under the steering wheel. Once I’m in, it’s… “ok” but not quite comfortable. And I know if I ever tried to track one, my helmet would be taller than the convertible top. Which is a no go. It’s honestly the only reason I’m considering a GR86 (with a rear seat delete) as my next purchase as opposed to an MX-5. First world problems, I guess?! 🤷‍♂️ 😭

[@tjscotton]

Haha yea I know the struggle. When I had my ND the space issue was far worse. I have been able to get comfy in the NC and especially with an aftermarket seat - I am able to wear a helmet with the roof up. So I wouldn’t write off the NC for long bois

[@jamieknight7366]

i’m 6’4” and fit well in my NC2 even WITH a helmet because i have put seat lowering brackets in to my driver seat

[@turboman6680]

​@@jamieknight7366 JASS performance lowering brackets? I'm 6'4" and could do with lowering the seat

[@elmonty6500]

Good vid thanks, what size rims u got on that & the et pls mate ?

[@davidlowen6131]

Hi Jack love the videos! Where did you get that excellent additional speedo please? Cheers

[@MahatmaGhandi-qh4nt]

Nice video, man 👌

[@ddehaan53]

Removing the cat sets one up for problems with the Federal Govt here in USA

[@neilbenton1152]

Nice buddy ive always liked these but my mate said he'll never speak to me again if I purchase one ! Currently driving a gr yaris cp and desperate to modify it ! What coilovers do you have on the mx5 ? Just subbed 😊

[@AK_0000]

What bucket seats are they?

[@energeticpencil2645]

Will this pass an MOT

[@1061shrink1061]

yes, if they don't go looking for the second cat. The car can pass emissions with a single catalyst, it just depends how "thorough" your garage are.

[@dumbestoyster]

A tri-Y longtube works better with the smaller displacement engine.

[@SaxophoneSunday]

Stock Miata nc does 0-60 in 7 seconds not 7.9. That’s us market car with the 4.10 rear diff

[@frostiethetoolbag]

It's a cheap upgrade but needing a new ecu plus dyno cost makes it cost 10x more

[@nolahahnshouse3389]

Thought you were going to say 2.5 engine swap for a second there.😅

[@macartworks2228]

Is that measuring GPS speed or wheel speed ?

[@gish85]

Dude what the hell you kept saying how cheap it was without saying the cost

[@tjscotton]

Roughly a grand all in for the manifold and the remap

[@gavinkitto4774]

​@@tjscotton to remap did you have to get an aftermarket ECU or a piggyback ECU? I assume they don't remap the stock ECU do they?

[@tjscotton]

@@gavinkitto4774 Yeah just a remap of the stock ECU. I got mine done at Performance link, but BBR also offer the remap for this mod

[@MrCaterhamr500]

The std 0-60 time is wrong the earlier NC did 7.9, the facelift that revs higher has a std book time of 7.6. Yours looks like a facelift. Now get a lightweight flywheel and a shorter rear diff in there, that’s the biggest difference after what you’ve done to your car you could do.

[@1061shrink1061]

Yeah The short rear diff is on my shopping list for sure. It's not even that hard a job in the bigger scheme of things, but it does mean taking lots of things apart, as the NC has that (good but annoying) brace that connects the gearbox to the diff, so you need to get that out of the way to be able to get the diff out, which means exhaust out, brace out etc. i'm contemplating a whole rear end refresh with new subframe, all new arms etc, and this would be a good time to fit a 5 speed pinion onto my 6 speed LSD.

[@AK_0000]

How much did all this cost? I thought the standard car had 158 bhp your getting 194 with just a header and a remap ?

[@1972mercurycougar]

In USA Standard car has 158hp net with Automatic transmission.167hp net with manual transmission. True.

[@AK_0000]

@@1972mercurycougar is that same as uk ?

[@theCARguy-]

How tall are you? Do you fit the car relatively well?

[@tjscotton]

6ft 1 ish

[@Aris_MpCh]

great video!!

[@gz617]

cobalt dual-tip muffler from MossMiata!!

[@earl8590]

How does this hold up with british car legislation? And insurance 😅

[@megajohntopunishenslave427]

Ps I appreciate putting out the cheaper alternatives than BBR. As not every one has spare cash and we all know they do add a decent mark up. But I do need to point out a few things 1 de catting never a good idea. Because the way things are going one day apart of the MOT test will be check all CAts are in place. Buy a catted one. Also the extra £1000 as you put it gets you the little sticker and race rom oh and selectable maps. Not worth it by any measure but flat floor shit blip down have been very useful on track. Not used the launch control but it’s not like your off the line starting.

[@megajohntopunishenslave427]

Ps if you haven’t done it yet I I recently changed to the competition fly wheel 5.8kg if my memory serves. Also there 8 ceramic puck clutch. If anyone is worried about it being too grabby it’s not. It’s still progressive enough to slip yes stalling is a pain till you retrain your footwork. But boy it’s a different car also if you have plans for GCFab hoop get Phil to fit it. His work is amazing looks so oem. I got his info from petrolpoodle review.

[@tjscotton]

A lightened flywheel is certainly on the menu when the clutch eventually needs replacing

[@megajohntopunishenslave427]

@@tjscotton yea I agree best time for it I got Phill Brough to do mine and my gear box when he was installing my GCFab hoop. But honestly it’s a worth wile upgrade and isn’t ON/off set up still manageable in slow moving traffic of London.

[@NyxOne81]

lol, dont be fooled, its still slow. I have a turbo 2.5l with 300 WHP ( ~350 BHP) and still find myself wanting more.

[@tjscotton]

Haha yea for sure - it isn’t fast. But it goes some way to fix the cars biggest issue. I’m considering a K20 turbo in the future - it’s much cheaper to get 300-400 with that set up

[@ochayethegnu2915]

Shame about the upcoming MOT failure.

[@tjscotton]

Passed with no issues. Suggest getting the car warm before the test, though. Remember this only removes the pre-cat in the manifold, the middle catalyst is still in place

[@lassydogpie5390]

Nope

[@peterludlow9847]

Did the manifold make the car much louder, mine is my daily and looking to change the manifold but dont won't it to be too loud. What was the xost of the remap, looked at racing beat one but have to move bottom manifold sensor into middle pipe after after cat. Cheers

[@tjscotton]

Only a tiny bit louder, it was more a tonal change for the better. I’ve done about 1500 miles since fitting the manifold and there are no drone issues and the car sounds noticeably more fruity

[@jmarthecorkes]

Geat video Jack... Have a stock NC3.75 and have been thinking about a Super 200 upgrade - might just do the exhaust manifold but likely catted as don't want to risk MOT issues and the car actually belongs to my other half 🙂

[@1061shrink1061]

I'll paste a comment I made above as it may be of interest to you also: I think in 90% of the cases the 200 kit isn't worth it, because the Cams lose you power at the bottom. I'd only do the cams, if i was they going to fit the full ITB kit, as that helps bring back the torque that the cams lose out on. The full 220/225 kit is the dog bollocks, but very expensive to throw onto an NC. Value for money, just fitting the manifold, even without a tune is hard to beat!

[@jmarthecorkes]

Really interesting, thank you

[@jacques_ev4712]

WAIT IS A THOUSAND DOLLARS CHEAP? 😭😭

[@truthwarrior2149]

All the people that are saying 167 hp is enough are either senior citizens with 1 foot in the grave and the other on the banana peel or they are men in the midst of transition and have already gone through the castration phase. 167 hp is anemic. Yes, it’s not how fast your car is. It’s how fast you can drive it. I get that. But for the rest of us with balanced hormones, these cars need 250 hp to be fun. Not more than that. Just 250. How do I know? Because that’s what I got and that’s the minimum amount of power for you to drive a car and not feel emasculated.

[@toshibavoodoo]

great

[@ianbradley2153]

I had the bbr 200 package on my 25th Anni, really happy with it it puts out 205 at the fly which is circa 177 at the wheels, btw, in assuming your 194 is at the fly?

[@DepakoteMeister]

It's all guestimated at the fly, because they are measured on a chassis dynos. If you want an acurate flywheel figure, take the engine out and take it to a proper dyno.