This Could Keep Your Family Warm During An Emergency Power Outage.

[@John-dp3ln]

Note: if your furnace will not run off of your generator with this mod and you get a missing ground error displayed, you will need to put a temporary ground from the furnace ground to the white neutral wire. This can be fused at 1/2 amp if you want but the two wires are normally connected together back at your circuit breaker main panel. The flame detection circuit may need this ground. I have run into this twice. Just an fyi.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks for the tip! I’ll pin this in case anyone else runs into that.

[@timgerk3262]

The better alternative is to bond the generator to the building's ground rod. There should be a threaded stud and nut on the generator for this. The furnace cabinet remains bonded to ground through the surface mounted box and ground screw on the device--in all cases that's an iffy connection, if say the mounting screws are loose. Better to have a ground wire from the box to the device.

[@eldoradoboy]

@@diyhvacguy my trane furnace had issues with flame detection.. I used to be in the field so I knew it was a ground issue from years of errors on various furnaces.. in my case I connected a ground wire from the generator frame ground to the house ground.. I had zero ground potential but it was a wierd flame sense.. I didnt have a bad ground flash on the board.. but would not sense flame.. my furnace has ground from my box.. so figured if i grounded the Genny to the box id be good.. and it works great.. in some areas there is code that a furnace has to be permanently wired into electricity.. the plug and whip may be looked at like an extension cord even though its permanently attached... its something to think about even if you never plan to sell your house as an insurance company could use it as a way to not payout.. nevertheless its worth checking local codes... a transfer switch would most likely be code FYI

[@JohnT.4321]

I already figured that out 4 months ago and I am all set for any power outage. 200 watts of solar power, 1500-watt inverter and 165ah of batteries which is to say 55ah each.

[@eldoradoboy]

@@JohnT.4321 165ah at what voltage? my furnace pulls about 700 watts running full blast. at 12 volts that equates to about 60 amps.. 165ah would be what 2 and a half hours runtime.. I cant use solar in my area (ohio) winter the sun angle is dismal and its almsot always cloudy , days are short too at only 9 and a half hours daylight.. probably little less than 9 useable daylight for solar.. I have 800ah @ 12 volts batteries.. of course the furnace doesnt run all the time.. but i can make it through the night with the generator off and secured...

[@offsideundo]

Good idea. Please note that the opening in the back of the attached metallic box through the furnace side wall requires a plastic grommet to protect the wire from eventually being cut through the jacket to potentially a short or a hot chassis, both of which are very very dangerous. The vibration of the working furnace can, over time, cut through the wire jacket. A plastic grommet prevents that from happening.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thank you, some others have said the same. I’ll make sure and correct that.

[@offsideundo]

@@diyhvacguy I come from the automotive world and it's the constant subtle vibration (such as produced by the furnace blower) that sneaks up on you to slowly eat through unprotected insulation. 3 or 5 or 10 years later.... ZZAAPPPPP!!!!!

[@CanadianCuttingEdge]

@@offsideundo One big safety step also missed is grounding the box. Sure, a short will still be a problem for functionality, but at least it would keep the switch box from becoming live and deadly.

[@genericdude6551]

There are some plastic grommets that fit the knockout hole (3/8 in. - 1/2 in. Knockout Non-Metallic Push-In Connector). They have these fingers that you put the cable through and it insulates the cable from the metal and does an adequate job of holding the cable in place. Places like Home Depot will have them and probably Amazon.

[@melmartinez7002]

@@CanadianCuttingEdge actually, he has a bare ground wire connected to the box through a screw from inside the furnace, the he connected to ground. So it is grounded, though I agree it might be better to have used a grounding screw inside the box so that would be apparent upon visual inspection without having to look inside the furnace.

[@picsbyjlm8557]

I just rigged my furnace as the man instructed. Very easy. Cost me around $15.00 for the plug/switch and plug in cord. Only had to deal with hot/neutral/ground and the whole job took me 15 minutes. This guy is awesome.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks brotha

[@Its.just.Mike319]

I understand some people might not agree with this solution, but seriously dude THANK YOU! We had extreme winds come through yesterday and knocked out power across the city. Today is 32°, but thanks to this video, my family and I are are sitting at a warm 72° inside! Again THANK YOU!

[@winstonsmith8898]

You won't be so happy when your house burns down because the guys hack is dangerous. Make sure your smoke detectors are working because you are going to need them some night while you are sleeping and the furnace wiring shorts out.

[@mustangcody]

@@winstonsmith8898 Forreal, If this was safe, it would already be installed on most furnaces already. Power transfer systems w/ generator interlock switch exist for this reason, much safer having it connect directly to the main panel through a sub panel and not having your main breaker and generator run at the same time.

[@troy3456789]

@@winstonsmith8898 This is a bit of an overreaction in my opinion; needless fear mongering for no good reason. If you do it exactly as he says, it will be fine. The draw of the igniter and squirrel cage fan really isn't that much at all.

[@chublez]

The most dangerous part of this is the wiring running through the sheet metal with no strain relief just begging to be shorted on that sharp edge. Crazy cause he knows the issue and does it correctly on the exterior of the box.

[@dmcook333]

So much criticism and pearl clutching 🙄

[@bobmartin4780]

Keep doing what you are doing. I'm 71 on a fixed income. Rebuilt Industrial machinery 44yr. Able to follow you very well. Never got into CNC or electrical all mechanical. May God bless you in what you are doing for people like me. 😎

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks Bob. I appreciate your support too! Cheers!

[@lukula2934]

Couple of points; NEVER, EVER run any wire through an unprotected metal hole. It may take years, but there is vibration from the motor(s) and the sharp edge will cut through the insulation. Another connector or grommet is required. Secondly, a plaque with instructions should be mounted near the switch since you never know who will be doing this down the road. Transfer switches are generally safer because all this happens automatically. But they are more complicated and costly to install. The advantage is no extension cords running through partially opened doors/windows which could let CO inside from the generator.

[@re2248]

Calm down sparky. I fail to see how someone could be that inept as to plus something into that outlet. Instructions? 🤣It's the same thing if you plugged it into a wall outlet. The cord is already protected by the jacket on the cord but ok, install a grommet so you sleep better at night. CO2 let inside? Most smart people have detectors and keep gas powered machines away from their home. Not everyone is a complete moron 🤣

[@lukula2934]

@@re2248 Here's a scenario...10yrs. from now hubby is away or sick or just gone. Single digit winter night, power goes out. Wifey goes down to transfer the power feed, no instructions, just a flashlight and crying kids upstairs. (But hubby did tell her how to do it...10 years ago).Would she be a moron for not understanding/remembering the process? And Damn! could only find a 50 ft. cord for the generator, since the neighbor borrowed that heavy duty 100 footer last year, which only leaves 10 ft. beyond the last door/window.....But...calm down sparky...what could possibly go wrong? Forgot to mention that a modified heavy duty cord or modified pigtail would be required since you'd need male to male connections...Which anyone would know without thinking, right?

[@re2248]

@@lukula2934 You should tell stories for a living. You are good in the make believe world 🤣

[@BillyBobDingledorf]

@@lukula2934 Seems you misunderstood what he was doing. There's no male to male connection. Have your husband explain it to you.

[@lukula2934]

Ok Bill. How does an extension cord plug into your generator? And you can see the switched outlet in the pics right? But you go ahead with your piss-ant, snarky, insulting comments. After all, it makes good you tube entertainment....@@BillyBobDingledorf

[@EazyT8439]

Thank u, u just saved me hundreds getting a transfer switch installed by an electrician, this was a simple diy

[@ricks1611]

The electrical box should be grounded from the source (green or bare wire) at the bottom of the box with a green hex head grounding screw. If somebody disconnects the furnace wires the box and furnace enclosure will be ungrounded. The plug wire should be the same size (#12 or #14 most likely). as the incoming circuit so if there is a short the pigtail won't be overloaded and get hot before the breaker trips. The hole at the bottom of the box should have a connector in it to prevent wires from chafing on the sharp bare hole. All code

[@BryanTorok]

I would suggest that you make sure the pig tail is either 14 or 12 gauge wire to be able to carry 15 or 20 amps safely depending on the size of the breaker for that circuit. I have one circuit that feeds the sump pump and the furnace, which are right next to each other. I'm going to use this idea to be able to power those two things. Eventually I'm going to redo the breaker panel to have a manual breaker interlock/transfer switch so I can power anything in the house, but that is a much bigger and more involved project for another time.

[@diverbob8]

It's not worth the trouble and expense......A DPDT switch big enough for you whole house costs several hundred bucks and you have to get your main service shut down to rewire the main to the switch. In many locations, they are beginning to follow to the 2020 code which requires updates to include installing your main breakers OUTSIDE next to the meter. Then a licensed inspector must audit your whole system for 2020 compliance, prior to the electric utility reconnecting your service. Lastly, a manual transfer switch is very hard to operate and so only husky people can flip it.

[@BryanTorok]

@@diverbob8 I've not heard of anyone in northern Ohio being forced to relocated the breakers outdoors and have not seen it even in new construction. The manual breaker interlock/transfer switch I was referring to is an add on to a standard breaker panel, UL and NEC approved, and available on eBay for about $60 to $70. One uses the top breaker closest to the main breaker to back feed the panel from the generator. The interlock is a sliding piece of metal that prevents both the main breaker and back feed breaker from being turned on at the same time.

[@rcc3music]

Had a buddy install that 30amp connector on the house for about a hundred bucks and I bought all the parts and it's come in handy a time or two being able to run my whole house. Just need a quieter generator. LOL ​@@BryanTorok

[@BryanTorok]

@@rcc3music Honda makes great inverter generators, but they are expensive. I'm a big fan of Harbor Freight. They have a whole line of the inverter generators for about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the Honda.

[@jackl9922]

I did that years ago so I could plug into Honda inverter generator when power fails. It’s been used many times. In 2020, had a full system changed. The installers saved my parts, and asked me to wait until after inspection before modifying again. I used two boxes since I have a condensate pump, and used a surge suppressor outlet. I have a modulating system, so want power line protected. Also, added 50A240v suppressor to outdoor inverter unit. Great idea, easy to keep warm when power fails.

[@jeevespreston]

Cannot thank you enough for this video. We just endured the ice storm in Central Texas, trees and lines down everywhere. Power out for 4 days. Courtesy of your video and my screwdriver we had heat for 3 of those days. Well done sir!!!

[@diyhvacguy]

Amazing! Glad it was helpful for you

[@shellybelle6781]

@@diyhvacguymy unit compressor went out. It’s only 7 year old . Gould I get another unit. Or replace the compressor.if so, do you have a video on how to replace the compressor non a 2.5 ton Goodman unit? Please I hope you respond, as time is winding down. It’s about to get hot in Atlanta

[@vigilantobserver8389]

That was Feb. 2021, right? It caught me woefully unprepared. Last winter, near Austin, our power was out for one day. After the 2021 winter storm, I got a Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU natural gas heater. It wasn't convenient, but has heated the home nicely for two years.

[@luvugod3872]

Thank you doing this video! Thanks to you, we now have a switch to the furnace and ready to install an inverter and battery, so we don't have to worry about power outages in winter. We are also going to get the Firman generator you recommended. I really appreciate your professional demonstrations. You have been a big help to us.

[@randycarter2001]

A friend of mine did that exact same thing over 10 - 15 years ago. His wife thought he was nuts spending all of that money on a generator. Until the next power failure, 15 minutes later they had lights, TV, refrigerator and heat. She was happy.

[@rusosure7]

I too invested ~$700 into a generator, transfer switch & ...10/3 wire in a rural home in Maine back in 2010. We got divorced 3 year later (not related) and in 2015 I was in Tampa Bay area, and saw they had a huge blizzard that cut power to the house for about 2-3 days. With hydronic heating & 240v well pump AND a powered exhaust vent, you needed multiple circuits & a 240v generator. I wonder how she made out during that storm. Sucks to have to learn everything in a crisis when you could simply not have been a beach.

[@diyhvacguy]

Happy wife happy life haha that’s one thing I’ve learned after 10 years of marriage! :)

[@davef.2329]

The usual story. They always think you're some sort of a nut, or such until it benefits them directly...

[@mfgc2610]

@@diyhvacguy I believe that, or did. At 46 years in, nothing makes a happy wife! Only kidding. They do get crankier though...

[@Billybob-go8hn]

@@mfgc2610can’t live with em or without em

[@BrooklynWalker]

About that “secondary measure” to test for power: I like to test for power BEFORE I shut off a breaker, so I can detect power, then shut off the breaker, then re-test. This is a great tip, I’m going to do it (any day now….)

[@scottlowe5590]

One further measure to verify there is no power is to short your hot wire to a grounded appliance surface or to a neutral wire. This s more trustworthy than the inductive tester imo.

[@DeusExMachina87]

Just had a 48 hour outage over the weekend with the temps dipping to -10*F... This video really saved our butt. Thank you!

[@johnspruit7296]

Been meaning to do this to be able to use a Generator to run my furnace. Your video makes the wiring process INCREDIBLY EASY to understand. in Northern Ontario Canada it is imperative to have one ( or more ) backup plans. i will be sharing this with many people. Thank you for sharing .

[@diyhvacguy]

Of course!

[@sifilmaker]

I did this years ago, and have had to use it 2 times with am Onan Generator when we lost power for 2 days in the winter. It works very well. Only thing I did different was I used a red outlet for the furnace switch/outlet. This was much cheaper than getting a dedicated generator and transfer switch. I also installed an on demand water heater propane fueled to provide hot water if needed, that has only been used to test once a year. I bought an Onan rolling Generator for $1100 that is 3000 watts, and can run the heating system, a Honda 2000 generator for the refrigerator and emergency LED lighting in the house. so for about $2200 I can run my heating, refrigerator, lighting, TV and computer with a hotspot. That is much cheaper than dedicated external systems that cost between $10-20,000, 1 or 2 times I have actually used it in the past 12yrs. well worth it. Great video though.. I'm not a professional electrician but I do believe in hooks at the end of wiring and tightened in the direction of the hook. lol

[@diyhvacguy]

A lot of people have mentioned this. I can only assume they were referring to the old switch, which I didn’t wire 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’m like the new one has the clamp connectors so I don’t know what y’all are squalling about haha thanks for the comment. Cheers

[@bigredjohnson6921]

So simple but effective!! Great video. Anyone making comments about sending power down the main obviously don't understand electricity.

[@dperreno]

I made that exact modification to my furnace 30 years ago when we were having frequent power outages. Did it in my next house also. Saved my bacon on numerous occasions, especially in 2017 when a windstorm took out power for almost a week! I was able to borrow a generator from a friend and I had heat (and refrigerator and internet!) My current neighborhood has below ground electrical service which has been very reliable, so no need to do it to this one yet.

[@danstein8305]

Hay Dave, For safety sake I always wrap my connections with electrical tape, especially when they are in close quarters like a steel box.I just like to insulate them so that they don't possibly short out at some point and possibly cause a fire.

[@cyumadbrosummit3534]

@@danstein8305 A short to ground trips a breaker.

[@duckhunter8387]

Wow! Wish my internet was somehow connected to my furnace.

[@dperreno]

@@duckhunter8387 I still had cable, just not electricity.

[@duckhunter8387]

@@dperreno Just a little sarcasm! Peace Brother

[@edh6096]

I have always resorted to my 2 wood stoves in the house for winter time heat. So far we have only used our gas powered generator for the fridge/freezer/some lights. The tactic presented by this video allows another way to get oil furnance heat to the house without fire wood. Your alternative back-up tactic is much appreciated. Now I am thinking that something similar for the water well pump would be great, albeit my pump is 220V single phase so the devices/plug/receptacle has to be different per our US electrical code / NEC. Great video: THANKS!

[@markmccrindle1322]

BRILLIANT!!!!! Just did this as we are expecting 60 mph winds and 12 degree temp. THANKS for the advice!

[@CMLFactman]

Mike, I have done a similar modification that may work a little better for you using both ends of an extension cord. Take the hot feed coming into the existing switch and make connection to a 1 foot stub of the extension cord with the female end feed through a knock out similar to your solution. Take the other end of the extension cord with a 1 foot extension and feed it through another knock out on the electrical box and make the connections to the existing switch. When finished, you plug the ends of the extension cord into each other for power from the power panel. When the power goes out, unplug the extension cord and plug another cord in and run to your inverter. I used an extension cord that has the lock button and cut off both ends with about a foot of wire on each end . the end result is you have a spliced extension cord outside of your furnace switch box that can be easily unplugged and connected to the inverter. No need for a new switch with an outlet. You can even use an old extension cord you have lying around. Hurray!

[@rhtservicesllc]

One thing I would suggest is that the plug and appliance cord that you use is rated for the amperage that your furnace is on. Meaning a furnace on 15 Amp circuit should have a minimum of 14 AWG plug and receptacle connected to it. 20 Amp circuit should have minimum 12 AWG

[@DiffEQ]

Incorrect. The appliance cord only needs to be rated for the appliance load. Does every thing you own that plugs into a 15 Amp receptacle have a 14 AWG cord???? No. Stop giving advice when you know little more than nothing about it.

[@rhtservicesllc]

@@DiffEQ As mentioned it is a suggestion, not a requirement. He didn't cover that in the video, so I made mention of it

[@diyhvacguy]

Thank you for this 🙏🏻

[@catgirl_works]

I'm mildly concerned that he used a 15A receptacle and plug on a 20A circuit. While it's certainly possible his furnace doesn't pull more than 15 amps, other people's furnaces might, and this will lead to people using under-rated extension cords during an emergency.

[@robbievermillion5101]

@@DiffEQa furnace that is hooked directly to a 20 amp breaker should be 12 awg all the way to it. Doesn’t matter what the load is. If the manufacturer says a 20 amp circuit minimum of 12awg.

[@Honestandtruth007]

He is very Smart to do this 😅❤👍👍. But I Already did it like 8-10 years ago and Never thought it's Now on KZbin

[@brizzle8797]

First I will say thank you for this video! I will say that what I did on my furnace seems a whole lot more simple and was actually recommended by my furnace manufacturer! I just installed a heavy duty so cable from my furnace and then the line coming from my breaker box was terminated at a 15 amp wall outlet. Normal operation my furnace is just plugged into the outlet and it's a done deal and then when I need backup power I just unplug it and plug it into the extension cord from the generator. No switches no extra nonsense just literally unplug it from the wall as I would any other Appliance, in the event of a power outage.

[@binnsbrian]

That makes a lot of sense. KISS Method

[@MavicAir1]

Yes.

[@rael5469]

"I will say that what I did on my furnace seems a whole lot more simple" Uh, that's what he did in the video. He just installed an outlet at the furnace switch box. By the way, what is a "so cable" ? Also, see Neil Brookins comment above. What about that ground situation if you change over to the generator during an outage? Like Mr Brookins said you will then only be bonded to the generator, not the house ground. Also....what about code? Is the furnace required to be on a switched power supply? ....in which case your 15 amp outlet might not be technically to code. In the scenario in this video it is still on a switched supply.

[@brizzle8797]

@rael5469 Well since you brought it up. no it's not the same I literally added a cord to my furnace... done, so yeah. So is just one designation for portable power cord that is flexible. There are multiple letters that get added in there like w's and j's and they all stand for something. Basically it's just like heavy duty extension cord cable mine being 10 gauge that I used for my application. You tube makes it very difficult to look at your comment and then reply to mine at the same time so I may have missed something and if I did by all means let me know and I will circle back around. As far as being grounded no it's not grounded to my power panel,which is good news for me because I'm not connected to it when running off the generator. But then again neither is my refrigerator my freezer my lights Myspace heater or any other thing I plug into my generator during a power outage so it's really no different. my furnace is really just one big fan, as the heat source is not from electricity. But I would imagine everybody already figured that out as it's only connected to A120 Volt 15 amp power receptacle! As far as being up to code I really don't care. And it literally is recommended by my furnace manufacturer as a way to run the furnace during power outages so it must meet code in Minnesota lol As I say I'm not concerned by it because my Furnace is literally a fan and a controller module as far as electricity powered items go so I'm trying not to overcomplicate things. And as every other appliance in my house other than my water heater is connected to the wall via a plug receptacle I don't see this as any different but that's just for me. everyone's free to Take and use all or just one piece or none at all. I just presented it as an extremely simple and foolproof solution to providing heat to my house in the event of a power outage. As far as being switched again I don't know and I'm not concerned but that is silly as can be because it is controlled by a breaker that is dedicated to the furnace so Besides the point I used to have an All electric furnace and there was no switch on the side it was just a big breaker. I think the switch only comes into play if it's permanently wired in because there would be no easy way to disconnect it but mine is plugged into receptacle so just like any other device I can just pull the plug if I have to.

[@rael5469]

@@brizzle8797 "Well since you brought it up. no it's not the same I literally added a cord to my furnace" That's exactly what was done in THIS video. Did you watch the video?

[@hornetd]

I love this overall idea and I think its a great contribution to family readiness, an issue I have worked on all my life. I do have a couple of small concerns about the execution that if addressed would enhance the longevity and the utility of the installation. I am a retired electrician after 45 years in the craft. I worked on alternative power on large and small scale projects. I just want to offer a couple of small alterations to this project. The clamp used to hold the cord is the wrong type. You can buy a cord connector at the same place you would buy the cable clamp use here, They are just as straight forward to use so the difference in the work is almost nil. The difference in a cord connector is that it squeezes the cord over its enter outside to hold it in place were the cable clamp clamps down on the cord distorting its shape and putting needless strain on the individual conductors. The compression of the individual conductors can cause the insulation on the wire that ends up under the cable holding ridge in the cable clamp. It seems a small thing but over the long haul it can lead to a fault which would open the overcurrent protection on your inverter and force you to locate the problem and repair it before you could get the furnace back on. Second thing is also rather small when compared to to the overall idea which is very good. The knock out between the switch box and the inside of the furnace has a rough and possibly sharp edge. By placing a chase nipple through the hole from the switch box side, tightening its locknut on the inside of the furnace to hold it in place, and screwing a plastic bushing on to its threaded end inside the furnace you can eliminate the possibility that the edge of that opening will cut into the cord because of the vibration of the blower motor over a period of years. It's a small change. the alternate parts will come to less than $5 additional cost and insure a longer and safer life for this modification. Tom Horne This is my last and final will. Good luck to all of you. Joe Hill Why yes, I am a red diaper baby. I was born into a union household and have been a union worker all my life.

[@rael5469]

"I was born into a union household and have been a union worker all my life." Please dear God tell me you don't vote republican.

[@DoDgeSwaG]

@@rael5469 republicans keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. You’re welcome

[@rael5469]

@@DoDgeSwaG OK, put down the beer and tell me what that mean.

[@9856CB]

@@rael5469 Unions may have had their place years ago. Today, they’ve ruined our schools, automobile and building industries. With all the “go bots” we have today, it takes YEARS and $$$$$ money to do what was gone in the past. Greed and soft life have destroyed this country. Not to mention “turning our backs to the Creator and 1 God, Jesus Christ”.

[@rael5469]

@@9856CB You're drunk. I can see that from behind a computer screen on the other side of the country.

[@Julie-5861]

Had a new furnace installed in may. My guy set this up on my furnace. Had a code pop up on my smart thermostat. Easy fix to turn off for five minutes. Flipped switch back on problem fixed. I recommend this for every furnace.

[@Krankie_V]

I wired up a generator Inlet to my panel so I could power the entire home, specifically to make sure I could heat my home during a power outage. This option is great for people who are unable to connect a generator to the entire home. It's an excellent, easy to implement solution to make it simple to power the furnace from an alternate source. Nice job.

[@williamevans6522]

WITH an interlock to make it impossible to have the main breaker on with the generator input active, I hope. Don't backfeed the grid!

[@Krankie_V]

@@williamevans6522 yes I added an interlock kit and a manual safety switch.

[@chuck_howard]

Same here. Mounted an inlet box and changed the on-off furnace switch to an interlock switch so a back feed is impossible. I chose a switch that was rated for double the amps and HP rating of my furnace motor for extra safety. Now I have generator-center off- line power.

[@bills6946]

There are municipalities around the country that do not permit a manual interlock kit. You would need a transfer switch. Just because it works doesn’t mean it’s legal. Check with your building department to do it safely and correct the first time.

[@Krankie_V]

@bills6946 bold of you to assume any of us care whether or not it's legal

[@samuell4775]

Excellent video as always. I would add a note in a plastic baggie hung from the switch box. A simple diagram and explanation of what to do with switch and plug and how to plug into backup power supply.

[@claytonchar9232]

Thank you for the DIY video. I just completed an installation at my daughter's house using the described materials and instructions. The installation was a complete success thanks to your video.

[@scottfranco1962]

Thanks, this mod makes sense for me since I have both battery backup and a generator that does not connect to the power panel. The battery backup is for the on demand water heater that I installed some years ago, and allows me to have hot water during PG&E enforced outages. The generator is for when those outages go on for days, which has happened here several times..

[@qanononabong8491]

In which blue state are you interned?

[@scottfranco1962]

@@qanononabong8491 Oh, I think you can guess.

[@olegk455]

Is your battery back up for on demand water heater runs through the inverter and a deep cycle 12V battery? Curious to know exactly how you did that set up.

[@scottfranco1962]

@@olegk455 No, actually an off the shelf APC UPS unit. The power draw for the gas on demand heater is minimal, just the fan and the operator panel. I did a test and it lasted more than a day on the UPS. I have a couple of those APC units around the house, and they give me time to put the generator into operation, which is fairly low tech. I run an extension cord into the house to power essential lighting and the refrigerator. I am planning to do the heater power cord conversion to operate that on the APC as well.

[@olegk455]

@@scottfranco1962 brilliantly done sir. Never even thought about APC solution for water heater to be honest. We have an older Navien CR-210A water heater but you are right it probably doesn't need much to power electronics and the fan. Will do some research how big of a unit I would need and installation set up. Thanks a lot for the tip!

[@Kevin_Lessons]

Not sure if anyone mentioned this below but the wire should wrap around the switch / outlet screws clockwise, kinda like the way you did the ground. Thanks for the video!

[@diyhvacguy]

Yes thank you for this. Every little detail matters. Cheers

[@Sembazuru]

Only if he was using j-hook wiring to the switch/outlet. He instead used back wiring where the screw clamps a plate down onto the wire. (This is different from back-stab wiring.) Back wiring like this is common on commercial grade outlets. See this video from "Everyday Home Repairs" for the details of back wiring: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYTJga2ro6qEb8k (I'm sure there are other good videos, I just happened to know about this one.)

[@Discovery123.]

Nope, depends on the receptacle. He did exactly per the manual come with the receptacle. You can use the J hook method but that not the only method here.

[@MikeCnolan]

No, this one has metal clamp plates, which are better still, and allow two wires to fit neatly.

[@jwayne777]

Yet Another great video👍 ! I Remember some years back listening to an old timer from back east telling me to save the propane optional fittings that came with the unit and to have the furnace installed with a a cord plugged into a disconnect switch outlet. He told me stories of outages for weeks in freezing weather. 🥶 Thanks for spreading the knowledge.

[@neilbrookins8428]

I think you should run a wire that connects the equipment ground from inside the furnace to the supply ground which you have connected to the outlet ground. This way even when the pigtail is unplugged from the outlet the furnace is still grounded. Also when the pigtail is plugged into the inverter you will still be grounded. The way it’s shown in the video, when the pigtail connects to an extension cord which goes to the inverter in the car the furnace is not grounded because the car is on rubber tires and is electrically isolated from the ground. This is unsafe! The furnace should still be grounded to the same earth ground that the main house electrical panel is grounded to - even when the power from the street is out and not supplying power the ground will still work.

[@mathewcurtis9401]

The furnace would still be grounded via the gas line, and the grounded metal outlet/housing. I agree, a separate ground is best practice regardless, but in this case he should be fine.

[@brianczuhai8909]

His furnace is always remains grounded to the service panel. The switch only switches the AC line. Ground and Neutral remain connected to the service panel.

[@BinaryHackerMan]

@@brianczuhai8909 floating generator ground is "safer" than a dead man cord

[@brianczuhai8909]

@@BinaryHackerMan I've retracted my comment about trying to commonized the Neutrals on the generator with the House AC. Let 'er float is what they apparently say.

[@fristlsat4663]

The ground wire is there to provide an alternative path back to the supply, there is no magic about being hooked to the actual ground. In the case of a generator if there was a short to normal house ground every grounded surface in the house would be "hot" relative to the generator neutral. most portable generators are not used with a ground rod, most sit on wheels or rubber pads. In this case you want your ground to connect to the generator, not to the ground rod driven by your electrical supply. In reality because appliances have multiple unintentional ground connections you are actually tying house ground back to the ground connection on the generator, but the intentional ground connection needs to be as short and direct as possible, which it is in the installation in the video. In the case of a poor ground, or when the service isn't properly bonded, a short to ground may not trip the breaker, potentially leaving grounded surfaces energized, which will definitely get your attention, at least briefly.

[@kevinyancey958]

You will need an inverter capable of 15 amps continuous. The furnace blower motor can draw 6-7 amps on it's own, plus the draft inducer, gas valve, and transformer. If you have frequent power outages, invest in a standby generator and you can run lights, heat, and your refrigerator at minimum. And it will do all that automatically, like if you're away from home and the power goes out.

[@diverbob8]

This is a very effective solution for locations with occasional outages. I did this in 1986 and it has been used about 6 times in 37 years. My only concern with your approach is that your breaker is 20 amp rated and that means that it can protect 20 amp wiring (AWG 12 or larger). Your pigtail appeared to me to be smaller than that. If it is, I would recommend a larger one (AWG 12) or a 15 Amp Breaker. This would depend on the motor HP and it's related starting current. (if it's AWG 16, I recommend that you change it). Remember that the feed wire is sized for the load and the breakers job is to protect that feed wire.

[@TxHornyToad]

Good idea. Saves the trouble of figuring out the wiring in the dark when the power goes out. When I put a bedroom addition on my house I had them put in a separate panel with a manual transfer to chose utility power or some lugs in box on the exterior of the house. That way I can connect my potable generator to the lugs outside, and turn on those circuit breakers I want powered. Furnace, lights, refrigerator, etc depending on the size of generator I have.

[@richardprice5978]

but does this on a federal 🇺🇸 government's code enforcement pass? as i wouldn't mine doing this or paying for it done but my local county's inspectors have to come and look and my in progress upgrading aka main panel was a 100A now a 400A

[@jeffscott1543]

A similar approach can if it’s done right, but transfer switches are expensive, and transfer panels limit what you can power from the generator. The most flexible and cost effective way to do this is to add an interlocked breaker to your main panel, and run a 30A or 50A feed to an inlet box outside.

[@richardprice5978]

@@jeffscott1543 got it so not code compliant on a federal law level so indererlocked breaker's for the furnaces down there if i really whated it and or the plugin in method and of course check with local authorities to see if it passes or not all ready have and or working on a 400A 240V sp ATS/UPS this idea was in the video feed so i click on it and it sounded like a less hassle was to replace the heating units later on and another layer of power properness if the power gird and my backup planning fail's 20kw solar/1-5kwind/400A PTO-tractors/surpluses generation head off my 60's dodge or 80's chevy v8 vehicle and $$/time allowing later a F150 V to G

[@MrBen527]

@@jeffscott1543 That's how I do it. Just back feed the panel

[@allaboutroofing2]

​@@MrBen527 that's highly illegal and for good reason. Seems simple enough until you forget to shut of the main and backfeed power back into the grid and kill a utility worker actively trying to restore the outage. Not smart and not something to be advocating for.

[@daves7775]

Slight thought: Better to remove the Switch Cover of the Furnace, and use the Hot Pen - (knowing the Furnace still has power); and than switch the Breaker OFF; and now verify with Hot Pen. This avoids any possibility that the Hot Pen is not correctly working for whatever reason.

[@tracykey9227]

Exactly; the rule is to test first on a "known" hot source, and then test intended circuit. Excellent point sir.

[@MrLandslide84]

Never thought of this, I am commercial refrigeration, so it's all power panels. You automatically verify a source since most of the stuff you work on is hot at some point. But here, verify, agreed.

[@darkfur18]

@@tracykey9227 if you want to go the extra mile, you can test it again afterwards on the known hot source, to ensure the pen didn't stop working between the time you verified it was working and the time you tested the circuit in question

[@theothoughts]

Or just rub it on your forearm or your pants to make sure it’s working

[@xsaber101]

The best way to verify the pen tester is functioning properly is to rub the tester up and down on your shirt. This causes friction and assuming you bought a automatic ranging pen tester(which can detect low voltage) you are creating a known live power source for your pen tester

[@paulgorman6346]

I just got done doing this and your video made it so easy! There was a small transformer that I needed to also wire up but everything seems to be working fine.

[@paparoysworkshop]

I do it differently. I install a high quality female plug on the end of the armored cable and then a male plug going into the furnace (similar to what you did but also using armored cable). Normally the two are pugged into one another but you can unplug the furnace and use an extension cord to your inverter or generator. Very simple. No extra switches or boxes or anything else.

[@donziperk]

And safer for the linesmen trying to get your power up and running.

[@christrouten9606]

@@donziperk this mod can in no way create an unsafe condition for the linemen.

[@johnbugden2222]

Having a switch near the furnace is a code requirement in many places. I think that might be based on the assumption that the furnace is hardwired. Some jurisdictions only require the switch if it's hardwired, but other places (like where I live) have a blanket requirement for all furnaces. Of course, many places also require all furnaces to be hardwired anyways.

[@paparoysworkshop]

@@johnbugden2222 Yes, this is true. There is a red colored plate that identifies the switch too. That switch should not be removed or altered in anyway. And of course, licensed electricians must follow code or risk losing their license. But what a home owner does after the fact, is up to that person. And must take all responsibility for the modification. Videos like this one can be a great source of information for many people, but there are those who really don't know what they are doing and should never attempt such things. That's the scary part.

[@TerrellWSmith]

@@johnbugden2222 In our city, a switch is required. But the code changes. Our old furnace had the switch up high, so a child couldn't reach it. Now the code requires the switch to be low, so that anyone can reach it.

[@morticus7650]

When stripping stranded wire, leave that little nib of insulation on the wires. Use the nib of insulation, to twist your wires. You will have uniformed and tight twisted wires, no straggler little wires strands.

[@patrickstewart6358]

Recently bought a generator. I followed the instructions found in this video and easily rigged my furnace for power from the generator with an extension cord. Ready for this Winter's annual outage. We'll stay warm this time. Thanks for this very helpful video. 👍

[@10Flat]

I’m thinking that should be a double pole single throw switch. That way your isolating “both” the house line & house neutral from the temporary power source. You wouldn’t want any transient voltages traveling through the neutral and back to your main panel.

[@defjamsgreen]

THIS IS A WELL CLEVER IDEA OF STAYING PROACTIVE INCASE OF A GRID OUTAGE ESPECIALLY DURING THE WINTER COLD SEASON . 🤗🤗

[@mabbaticchio]

I had my electrician do this years ago. Never had the opportunity to take advantage of it though which is a good thing. But feels good knowing we will have heat if the power goes out.

[@larryware1]

Thank you, HVAC Guy (Greg)! I watched your video yesterday and have been meaning to get this done so we could run our 30 year old gas furnace off our 3800 watt gas generator. I called a local electrical company. The electrician was able to come over today. I had him watch part of your video (this one), and he installed the outlet and switch for us just as you show here. Peoria, IL is getting a strong winter storm tomorrow with 50+ mph winds, 4-5 inches of snow, and temperatures plummeting well below zero. The storm is suppose to last two days . The chances of a power outage are pretty good. We're so happy to have this measure taken so we can stay warm and stay home safely during the storm this week. Thank you so much for you excellent video work and thorough explanation.

[@diyhvacguy]

Awesome! Glad they were able to take care of that for you 👍🏽 glad you are one step more prepared :) cheers

[@larryware1]

@@diyhvacguy - thank you. This is one of the best measures we've taken so for in our winter preparedness. Keep up the good work on your KZbin channel.

[@mikewelling3618]

Larry how much did the electrician charge you for the service?

[@larryware1]

@@mikewelling3618 - about $225

[@peterwachter7753]

Setting aside all the pros/cons/comments your concept and video story telling was excellent. PS: Wago Lever Locks are the best for stranded (and tiny volume pancake boxes found in old structures).

[@duckhunter8387]

Exactly.

[@dennisjoiner3717]

Great video! I'm so going to do this modification. I have our camping deep cycle battery and 600 watt inverter in the next room on a battery maintainer. We don't lose power often, but this is an easy backup to have at the ready.

[@davidrooney5223]

Did you mention that in the event of a power failure, homeowners should shut off the breaker in the panel before adding a generator source? This is important so as to not accidentally send power back through the main panel.

[@Idahoser11]

adding the external power source involves UNPLUGGING the furnace from the mains, no connection to shut off. This switch is completely unnecessary, you don't need to shut off the outlet if you're unplugging it anyway.

[@dominikusheinzeller1446]

This is such an easy and great way to prevent freezing at home. Thanks!

[@Mmagz6]

Thanks a ton for doing this video! Very much appreciate your help with sooo many things. Lost power last winter and family didn't enjoy that too much so now we're golden.

[@sdtarheels]

Hey Dave - Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time for posting this video and the one about running the furnace off a car battery. We've got a blizzard coming here in NY and generators are sold out everywhere. Thankfully I was able to get my hands on an inverter at Harbor Freight. I followed both videos and was able to get everything hooked up this evening. It's a great feeling knowing my 18 month old baby girl and wife won't be cold if we end up losing power. Thanks again and looking forward to more of your videos!

[@DNorseMan95]

Wow.. you should be proud of yourself dude. You may very well have saved your family's life considering what just went down in Buffalo.

[@scottschmittmusic]

Amen to that

[@toriless]

Smart people buy ahead of storms like I do. I bet you run out to get an AC or fan only when it is hot.

[@DNorseMan95]

@@toriless Pretty bold assumption thinking that I don't think ahead. I was just giving this man his props that I felt he deserved.

[@smokeysmith1282]

@@toriless sooo smart, be proud 😂

[@mattdudamusic]

My installation is similar, except that I did not install an outlet. I removed the original switch (single pole, single throw) and installed a 3-way switch (single pole, double throw), connecting the black hot wire of the male 14ga extension cord to the extra terminal of the switch. This way when my furnace switch is turned “off”, it is connecting the extension cord directly to the furnace. When the furnace is powered normally, the extension cord is not energized.

[@diyhvacguy]

Nice. Thanks for sharing

[@Mytube5202]

That’s not as safe as a break before make approved transfer switch.

[@bbest8]

Excellent Demo and wiring instructions. In case of Emergency is now (almost completely) avoided during freezing temps or sweltering heat. Thanks!

[@shtfengineering7472]

I think it is a great idea to have an alternative power connection. It is great to see people getting things together like this. That being said, I would like for folks watching this to understand using a pigtail cord and outlet setup like this is NOT for every furnace. DO NOT attempt to do anything that resembles this on an electric furnace. This video is strictly for gas furnaces. Even though they make 50A plugs and outlets for 220V connections to ovens and clothes dryers, it is a violation of National Electric Code for furnaces and hot water heaters. Those appliances are considered "permanent" installations, and as such, it is required to be hard wired to the screw terminals provided. Technically, it should work fine, unless something goes wrong, you will be stuck paying for rebuilding your house out of pocket. 110V appliances have no such requirement mainly because they are lower wattage. Many electric furnaces pull 5000 watts of power! Running that kind of wattage through a plug and outlet connection is very risky, long-term. If there develops the least bit of corrosion on those brass parts inside the outlet or the plug, the connection surface area is reduced, thereby, creating resistance. As resistance builds up over time, the metal parts of the connection get hotter and hotter, eventually leading to an electrical fire. The attic space is ventilated with outside air containing a percentage of moisture. The moisture is what starts the corrosion. If anything, I would recommend installing a transfer switch next to your breaker box and an appropriate generator connection with weathertight housing, if you don't have LNG or propane heating in your home. Solar is not really an option with the power hungry electric heating.

[@deanmartin1966]

I thought I was the only one that knew that trick. I just did this with my daughter’s new furnace I installed last month. Just in case they need to hook it up to a generator.

[@user-fy7ru4ii1i]

I've got basic electrical knowledge. I know how to do outlets and lightbulbs. I was following this well, but didn't understand the flow of electricity until about 14:15, then it all made sense. power coming IN can be disconnected via the light switch and plug. Then plug into the generator. Smart. Well done.

[@lesw8798]

If you have a high efficiency furnace-95% you better make sure your generator has a bonded neutral for that setup or the computer on the furnace will fault out. That’s the opposite of if your going through a transfer switch to your electric panel, than you need a floating neutral or the furnace computer will fault out. There can only be 1 point of bonding and that’s usually in your main panel. But since you’re bypassing you’re panel your generator must be bonded.

[@jackkirk5463]

I have a 1992 bryant and mine is running at 96.4% efficiency and 11 for the exhaust gases. Hvac guy was very impressed. Older stuff built well when maintained.

[@gadasavideos8564]

By bonded neutral is that same as bonded to frame?

[@lesw8798]

@@gadasavideos8564 No that’s a wire or other contact that attaches the ground plug to the neutral line. My Honda Generator had a 2inch wire that I had to remove so I could hook it up to my transfer switch on a power failure, because your main breaker panel is bonded and you can only bond in 1 place. Computers in high efficiency furnace’s usually check ground conditions as 1 of there pre ignition checks. I made a plug that has a ground to neutral short that I plug in when I use it as a stand-alone generator outside otherwise the voltage could float and you could get zapped .

[@gadasavideos8564]

@Les W thanks. But my setup doesn't go through my main or sub panel. It's like my furnace is connected to generator just like a work light would be.

[@Greasyfingers60]

This is a great idea. I have done this at my last 2 houses. It came in handy during an extended winter power outage. The inverter was connected to a running vehicle’s battery terminals long enough to heat the house up to 50 degrees, saving the pipes from freezing. My neighbors were not so clever, and ended up with massive water damage from burst pipes. Cool that you used the combo switch/outlet to fit into the existing box. It crossed my mind what electrical codes might say with the non-armored cable. I stuck with 14/2 AWG Romex cable and attached a male plug to it, but it would be even better to find a male plug that can attach to metallic sheathed BX cable.

[@papatom9009]

I just bought a generator to do just this. I've talked to three electricians and none of them will install this type of hook up. They all want you to install a very expensive generator box next to the breaker box to switch. But now I know how to do this myself. Thanks for the step-by-step instructions.

[@diyhvacguy]

You got it!

[@davidgiesfeldt6650]

Add a short segment to the video showing current meter in line to determine if the the Inverter (battery) will support the furnace. The motor draw may be shown in the manual or on a sticker but you need to know the starting amperage for the WHOLE furnace (control, ancillaries such ERV, HRV, Humidifier etc). Interesting application.

[@VA7BC]

Thank you for a first class explanation of this switch. Makes total sense to me now. The details and manner you described this is excellent. Greg

[@kenwittlief255]

after watching this I realized you added the outlet to the switch and there was already a switch there... but... with the outlet and the plug, you dont really need a switch If you replaced the switch with a standard power outlet, and put a plug on the furnace wires, all you need to do is unplug the furnace to turn it off or to plug it into the extension cord that runs to your DC to AC power inverter.

[@TomCee53]

@@kenwittlief255 functionally it would work, but I’m pretty sure that the NEC stipulates a switch. Of course, I’m not sure that the cord/plug would pass inspection when the house was sold, so you’d probably have to take it out.

[@Isaacson4]

We are installing a 220v electric heat pump system - today! It will take 60 amps to run, so . . .

[@TomCee53]

@@Isaacson4 You could probably run that off a generator. I have an electric boiler that’s 100A at 220v. I’d have to bring in a truck.

[@Barracuda48082]

Gfci usually but homeowner can make this change for what it is, power source choice. Great idea and video. 57☆

[@kentkirkpatrick7953]

I did this five years ago and installed a standby gen set.. have let to loose power since. Worked out great!

[@WJCTechyman]

For the switched receptacle there, you really didn't need to remove the common tab, you put your line in on the brass screw next to your black screws, leave the tab in place and wire up your neutral to the silver screws and your ground to the box and the ground screw on the outlet. I've made power bars like this for my soldering iron and glue gun using these switched outlet combos, similar in functionality to how British outlets work.

[@jasonmackey6741]

Thank you. I was only a few minutes into this and was getting a little anxious. Line to brass, neutral to silver.

[@DiffEQ]

Correct, but this guy used a lighted switch for some reason and that will be affected by being on all the time. The lighted switch is unnecessary and a needless expense so it doesn't matter, really. But, yes... you got it right!

[@DiffEQ]

@@jasonmackey6741 That's not what he's saying. Line can also go to the black screws if you want the switch to control something else and the outlet to be always hot (on). He's saying the OP didn't need to alter the device only to add a jumper later.

[@cherylmockotr]

@@DiffEQ I was wondering why he broke the tab, then added a jumper. The tab is the jumper, isn't it? If he'd left it in place, the switch would still control the outlet receptacle, which is what he was after? I'd like to connect my boiler this way, which is also on just a switch.

[@jfowler702910]

No your wrong. If he didn't break the tab the outlet would be hot all of the time regardless of whether the switch was On or Off.

[@Teh_Random_Canadian]

Depending in your jurisdiction that switch is not required. A plug counts as a disconnecting means. So you could just fasten a power cord to your furnace and change out the switch to a plug.

[@tcbtcb]

The switch is probably code as mine also has one. I’d add an outlet between the switch and furnace. Flip breaker, flip the switch as additional safety and plug the generator into the outlet with male male adapter.

[@Carskinify]

I'm glad I watched this video. I have never hooked up a furnace to a generator but this is exactly what I need to do for future emergencies.

[@loueber]

Great video. Well done explanation, well done camera work. Every system should be wired up as such when the unit was first installed. Wish they made such a design a code requirement. Thank you

[@zam200864]

This video should be in every person's library, thank you for taking the time to explain in simple layman's terms what people can do to protect themselves in an emergency situation.... subbed

[@diyhvacguy]

Of course! Thanks for watching :) cheers

[@jimthomas7594]

Ive watched this video a few times and always say, “I need to do this”. Well the other day it went from 75 to tornado to 20 within 12hrs and my furnace wasnt working. I live in Michigan. I installed this today and it was a breeze and worked great. Great tutorial!

[@williamtell2496]

Great job! I have a gas powered generator and was already thinking about coming up with some way to tie it into my furnace in case of a power outage. I will be doing it the way you have! Much safer and no chance of shorting anything out. Thanks!!

[@berettaboi]

another trick, albeit a little bit more thought put in (and danger, involving the dreaded male to male extension cable...), is to shut the main breaker off, and backfeed your outdoor plug (or nearest plug through a window), backfeeding the panel, then shutting off all non-essential breakers (leaving the circuit on that you've now plugged the generator into) in the panel. there's obviously a larger voltage drop to be considered across the length of all that cable, which makes a more direct feed cable ideal, but the furnace isn't typically far from the breaker panel in many installations really. keep in mind this would limit the capability of the complete circuit to be the 15 amps (most usually), that the circuit is that you have backfed into. meanwhile, it may be a 20 amp output plug from your generator, feeding the rest of the board backwards through the 15 amp breaker.

[@dkat1108]

Could you elaberate on this please "you will need to put a temporary ground from the furnace ground to the white neutral wire" I was led to believe if you have a inverter generator there is no need for grounding the generator ?

[@mikeh3175]

My wife will think I am so (smrt) 🤣🤣🤣 when I show her what I am going to do! You're pretty awesome brother for sharing this, thanks!

[@diyhvacguy]

Haha you can take the credit 👊🏼

[@sellC1964]

Great video!!! Only concern I have is the 18 gauge wire jumper on a circuit with a 20 amp breaker. Easy to overload if someone uses heavy load, up to 20 amps, on that outlet. I’m sure it would never happen, but just an FYI.

[@cali-electro-dad]

Why do you think the jumper was 18 AWG?

[@pixels303at-odysee9]

Perfect video. I could have done one easier, by simply using a plug before the existing switch to a plug and the supply to a additional outlet box, but yours looks fine. Every device in a home like this should use a electrical outlet box and plug. Just like your fridge, freezer, dryer, washing machine and oven. Leaves me to wonder why they don't do this for furnaces.

[@sneakeyzeke66]

Greg this is a great video and idea. Please keep in mind that the 1/2" ko in the back of the box and the wall of the furnace by code needs to be bushed. You can do this by either using a chase nipple and lockout or a snap in plastic bushing.

[@toriless]

His furnace should have had a plastic bushing before like mine but it was removed, than again that is the single worst connection to a screw I have ever seen and not where near the 60% required by code.

[@publicmail2]

We used to call them red dogs...

[@ScottDLR]

One thing people should note is that modern furnaces will look for a connection between the neutral and ground, which is present at your main panel but not in generators or inverters. If it's missing the furnace will not run. If this happens you need to take an ordinary male hospital plug and install a jumper between the Neutral and Ground, then plug it into your generator or inv.

[@snicks50]

HAHA

[@HobbyOrganist]

I think my setup would avoid that, since my generator is able to plug into an outdoor 3 prong outlet connected to a breaker, ground and neutral in the panel with an interlock kit on the panel as opposed to just running an extension cord from the generator to the plug on the furnace which is what I think your caution is about?

[@bruceeverett5372]

@Scott---absolutely right! I learned this the hard way on a cold night! I made a little bonded box on a pigtail to run my furnace.

[@ScottDLR]

@@HobbyOrganist Right, the problem pops up if just plugging the furnace straight into a gen/inv and bypassing the panel.

[@ScottDLR]

@@bruceeverett5372 LOL, that's how I learned it too!

[@americanpatriot3638]

I did something similar years ago. I have welding cord running from my generator to a box with 4 outlets on a long cord. I can plug the furnace into one and i have 3 more for fridge, lights, ect. The reason I had to do it that way is because i have an old style fuse box. Not a breaker box. In the area i live it can get -30 in the winter. The furnace is really the only thing that is really necessary. Everything else is secondary.

[@Cris01121]

I plan to do similar but instead I ordered a single circuit ez transfer switch. This would also simplify things for a future furnace replacement. Also I think a newer furnace sometimes requires a bonded neutral plug to work. Great video. Fridge lights and other items are simple enough to plug in and power as needed vs having a large transfer switch.

[@scott9676]

Yes, an EZ Transfer switch is only about $100, is up to code, and can be set up for bonded or floating neutrals. It's also completely outside of the furnace so you don't have to touch the internal wiring.

[@jameskoehler4939]

EXACTLY. That would be the correct, safe, and up to code way.

[@intensifier1346]

Is there a video on how to do this?

[@Cris01121]

@@intensifier1346 kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqbKZ4uZoLuWbqc

[@dontmesswiththeman]

Using a single circuit transfer switch is the “right” way to do it, and what I plan to do to power my boiler pump in emergency situations.

[@gregthoms5232]

Better idea is a sub panel with a manual transfer switch. You can put a couple of circuits on it for your furnace, refrigerator and internet router.

[@gravelydon7072]

TV and lights also. Our home was built in 1978. At the time of construction it had a 50Amp transfer switch installed just for emergency circuits sub-panel. Along came Hurricane Andrew in Aug of 1992. The whole power grid became non-existent. A larger transfer switch was installed so that the whole house could be run on a generator. It is fused for 200Amps ( slow blow ) and is rated at 600Amps and with addition of another set of contacts, could be used for 3 Phase power. Needless to say it was needed as we were without commercial power for 5 weeks. A 10KW or a 7.5KW running either/both circuit(s). Now I just have the 7.5s or a 6KW inverter that can run off solar or charge the batteries if the generator is running. As I am moving to our house in Ohio, first thing to be done there will be another whole house transfer switch installed. Along with a proper sub-panel fed off of the inverter when power goes out. This will also allow me to get rid of some of the Romex wiring ( I hate Romex ) and install proper conduit and wire runs.

[@mattwaters6987]

Great video. I did this years ago for my mobile home. Got a genny for power. My very last step was to do a full test run during the warmer months so i knew what to do. Thanks and subbed too. 😊

[@JSATI]

Great video and I plan to put this into action. Just a thought but when using the voltage stick a live dead live test is the way I was taught and would teach anyone watching.

[@percyfaith11]

Need a strain relief fitting on the wires from the furnace into the switch box to prevent cutting the insulation on the wires.

[@JeremyStyninger]

You bet. Those unprotected wires passing through the metal holes give me pause. A combined plastic bushing with strain relief may do the job nicely. That along with anti-short bushing inside the sharp ends of the bx cable would really smarten up the whole thing.

[@csimet]

Especially so on a housing that vibrates from the motor. That is a short just waiting to happen.

[@Relic67]

I've been putting this off for a while. Figured I'd do it by flashlight when the time comes. I'm gonna do it right away now. Thank you very much.

[@diyhvacguy]

Awesome thanks for watching! Cheers

[@tommyc9237]

Overall good video and explanation of steps. Would not recommend using stranded wire for the jumper and would like to see wires wrapped clockwise around terminal screws rather than just clamped down. This was done with the ground wire, should have been the same on the hot and neutral. As someone else commented, there should be grommet on the furnace housing so wire casing does not wear through over time.

[@genetownsend8847]

What’s wrong with stranded wire? Commercial electricians use it all the time

[@MAGAMAN]

@@genetownsend8847 Not in my house. Everything is solid wire.

[@genetownsend8847]

@@MAGAMAN house =residential wiring, not commercial. Stranded wire is used extensively in commercial/institutional and industrial wiring.

[@gravelydon7072]

@@MAGAMAN Stranded or solid depending on the circuits here.

[@gravelydon7072]

I thought the same until he got to the Neutral wire. Then I saw that this combo is designed with a clamp under the head of the screw. So it will work with either stranded or solid wire.

[@tgriebe]

Nice video, I love the way you showed the WAGO connectors which are the best way to attach stranded and solid wires together. I wired a similar plug on my old furnace and when I had it replaced, the HVAC installers took it off saying it would not pass code in my area (SE Michigan). I'm not sure why this would be against code, because it is such a useful idea, but I mention it as a heads up to anyone potentially dealing with code enforcement.

[@munsters2]

RE:Tom Griebe. I was wondering about that. I'm not an electrician but my guess is that the National Electric Code maybe requires a direct wire connection; not a pigtail. Any electricians here know?

[@DieselRamcharger]

lmao NO!

[@binfordtoolman5674]

My guess is that your local code requires a hardwired connection for this application. Most code requirements are good but there are a few that make you scratch your head. Hardwired connections are beneficial for high-draw 240-volt (or more) appliances since heat can build up at the plug/socket and is the weak spot in a connection. Gas furnaces, OTOH, use comparatively little electricity. You have the draft inducer fan (not the blower) that uses between 50-100 watts, the hot surface igniter (about 600 watts), and the blower motor (about 370 watts for a 1/2 HP motor. the most common size). All three do not run at the same time. When the T-stat calls for heat, the inducer motor kicks on and the hot surface igniter lights up for a total of about 700 watts (5.8 amps @ 120 V). The hot surface igniter runs for only 30-60 seconds. Once the gas burners ignite, the hot surface igniter shuts down while the draft inducer motor continues running. After about 30 seconds the blower motor kicks on - now you have about 470 watts (about 4 amps @ 120V) for both the inducer and blower motors. For comparison, the typical electric dryer runs at 5,000-6,000 watts (~23 amps @240 V) and yet code allows a plug connection for the dryer. The plug-in technique in this vid is no different than plugging in any other corded appliance (vacuum cleaner, coffee maker, TV, hair dryer, etc.). If amp-draw is the driver for a hardwired connection on a gas furnace, then virtually every appliance would need to be hardwired.

[@munsters2]

@@binfordtoolman5674 Good explanation. Say hello to Tim & Al.

[@fristlsat4663]

@@binfordtoolman5674 I guess you haven't figured out yet, neither the code, nor the code enforcement officer are driven by any connection to reality. And of course the code doesn't really matter, just the enforcement officers definition matters. Someday for fun try telling the enforcement officer what the code really says.

[@realitypoet]

Thanks! I recently had my furnace replaced and found out when the power went out that I no longer had any way to plug it into my inverter/battery backup like I always could with my old one! I didn’t realize that having a plug wasn’t just standard so didn’t request this when they installed the new furnace.

[@bradlucas8843]

It’s a decent idea for the money and it solves the problem of isolating the neutral in order to proper protect the linesman working on the damaged power lines from power backfeeding through the neutral . What works better though is to have a stove receptacle installed that powers a small pony panel by means of a stove cord end . Secondly you install another stove receptacle that’s powered by your generator so that when you lose power you just plug the pony panel supply into the generator fed stove plug .

[@dk138nyc]

Kudos for identifying that this concept eliminates back feeding.

[@troyf1]

Can you explain how this prevents back-feeding through the neutral. It's difficult to understand without a wiring diagram, but I see one neutral coming from the switch/outlet to the furnace. How is that one neutral not shared by the outlet and the switch (in any position)?

[@GeraldWilhelmBradenComposer]

GREAT VIDEO! This is exactly what I needed to use my generator! I'm going to do this with both of my furnaces! ...Peace! 🎼❤☮

[@Once_in_a_Lifetime]

I extended my gas line from the stove thru to the middle of the house and bought a Mr. Heater. If power goes out i have brackets ready to attach to the wall to hold the heater and then a quick gas line attachment to the heater. No electricity needed. Once i use it then I’ll leave it attached for the rest of the winter. I have a alarm to make sure carbon monoxide levels are not high. I have some outside airflow but want extra assurance. I prefer to use any battery backup for lights ect. I have a generator but last time the city was out of power, so was the gas stations. Rarely happens that were out of power for any length of time and does not justify the cost to simulate how I normally would live, in a emergency situation. I don’t need to be in the back room away from heat.

[@jessenester1760]

The 1/2 ko going into the furnace needs to have: rubber grommet, bushing, plastic or metal strain relief, or a chase nipple. You should have left your pigtail much longer, my opinion, 6-10 feet. And lastly, even though it isn't a biggie, I'd use solid #14 as a jumper inside the switch. Not that any of these things will be inspected.These are cleaner neater tricks to be a little more pro and to code. ✌.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks man! I appreciate those tips. I’m always looking for ways to improve. Cheers

[@jessenester1760]

@Michael Dupre About me .had an innate attitude towards electrical since age 5. Literally could wire phones, speakers, fix Christmas lights. Make phones and doorbell ring at age 6. Fixed high school teachers bedroom short age 15, wired his 240 dryer outlet age 16, installed a generator into parents cabin age 18. Electrician to the Magic Castle in Hollywood 13 years. After that mouthful, why would you wire a 3 way switch? That means a second switch working in conjunction with the first one would have equal control from some other location to open or close that circuit.why? And what was the specific thing you felt a little uncomfortable about. I love helping.

[@jessenester1760]

@Michael Dupre your reasoning is correct. A volume control essentially is a potentiometer, it is a variable resistor, or POT for short. It is inside all old knob rotary dimmers , most all new slide dimmers like LUTRON MAESTRO. However it merely tells the triac inside which is riveted to its aluminum housing as a heat sink, it tells the triac how often to chop the SINE WAVE. In normal 120 volts a.c. the wave is 60 cycles. Actually it is 30 nanoseconds of a positive wave. Flatlines at what is called the zero crossing ( like a dead human heartbeat, flatlined) for .4 of a second. Then becomes a negative wave for 30 nanoseconds, then flatlines again for .4 of a second. Thus a complete revolution takes place in 1.8 seconds. Think of it as alternating current is d.c. flashing on and off 60 times in one second. So a modern day dimmer like your timing belt on a car that you hold a zenon flashing strobe to see the white stripe pattern as the fan belt rotates in front of your eyes. You adjust the timing belt so the cylinders fire in sync. Except a wall dimmer refuses the on time to a light bulb, less time on , less time for filament to heat up, to human eye incandescent lights appear to be dimming.thus why unless an LED DRIVER ( fancy way they refer to the electronics providing led its d.c. current) was designed for chopped waves slower than 60 cycles, you are starving and or confusing its switching power supply. Almost all modern chargers, power supplies, screw in LED'S will operate from 90-250 volts switching automatically. Because its guts were made to operate on the low end, anything above that 90 volts it just trims back. It can do this by using the same trick like dimmers, changing the phase harmonics of a sine wave thus giving it less on time, like a water pressure regulator that allows only so much pressure through. Since the driver already is chopping your 120 , down to 90 to make itself work, you go and dim or chop its input wave down( it has no clean 50/ 60 cycles) it can't keep up and compensate for so many quick transitions.

[@beauknowz]

Great video! Our caretaker in the Northwoods of Wisconsin made this mandatory if you kept the heat on during the winter. He also made sure you had a bank of batteries to power the furnace for 48 hours until power could be restored or a backup generator arrived. He also made sure you had the ability to hook a (several) propane tanks to the furnace if your main tank ran dry. Oh- and if your furnace ran on natural gas from the township he made sure it could run on propane via switching regulators. A video you could do if your furnace has the capability to run on propane & natural gas. This caretaker absolutely hated newer digitally controlled furnaces. Stick with good old analog controls. In a pinch you can manually operate a furnace and it will always make heat and hot water if you have a forced water heating system, and water tank.

[@matthewtilley3089]

Beau respectfully disagree with your switching between natural gas and propane there is much more involved to safely modifying a furnace to run one fuel to the other gas pressure springs in the gas valve burner offices pilot offices all must be changed with attention to altitude above sea level and shouldn't be done by an untrained person

[@cmk616182]

Neat trick, especially when big below freezing storm. We have fireplace but having this as emergency backup is awesome. I would probably disconnect from battery during daytime hours, tend to fireplace often, the hook that up at night and hope power came back on. As long as I could keep house and more importantly pipes from freezing we be ok.

[@MeltingToast]

Just so everyone is clear, the way he installed this you did not need a switch as a disconnect. The moment he put the furnace on a cord and plug that was all he need. And if you up plug is from the utility power and plug it into an external power source that is it, there is no need to switch the receptacle off before. He could have just put in a single receptacle and then did the cord and plug connection and been the same. That said I think it is a neat idea and make it easier to power your furnace when the power goes out, I only think he went to more work than what was need. One more thing the hole from the handy box into the furnace you should put a chase nippel and a plastic bushing to protect the wires from rubbing on the metal and removing the installation off the wires overtime

[@karldegroot3131]

...read a lot of comments. Wondered the same thing. You're the first to say this. I'm not an electrician. Just a millwright/general machinist. Didn't understand the neutral/ground bonding thing. Guess if I pull the cover off my panel, I'll see the grounds and neutrals on the same rail. Can't remember everything. Just try to approach with logic. Can't see electricity. Must be careful. Thanks for your comment!

[@jimtownsend7899]

The reason you need the switch is to have a local cutoff for the furnace. Otherwise, someone would have to go to the circuit breaker panel every time the furnace needs to be turned off, as in for routine maintenance. It's code everywhere that I know of, because if the breaker was the only way to kill power, some yahoo would be too lazy to go all the way to the panel, and would try to work on a live unit.

[@munsters2]

Pretty clever setup. Thanks. I wonder if the National Electric Code requires insulating bushings where the pigtail enters and exits the receptacle? Also, make sure the gauge of the pigtail wire is sufficient for the circuit.

[@TimYorty]

I believe it does require a bushing or NM clamp.

[@hotpuppy1]

Doesn't matter as this setup is not to code anyway.

[@MakoXL]

@@hotpuppy1 can something similar be done to code?

[@itstheweirdguy]

This video is monetization, not information. Of course you would want real licensed work done ;) It's for the views.

[@3rdplanetimmigrant203]

i have a direct vent fireplace. this is a sealed unit. it has a standing pilot. it also has a very nice blower. though the blower obviously would not operate without power. the fireplace works great with or without power. i ran a cable from the milli-volt gas valve to the hallway and installed a programable thermostat. i can heat my home without power. the main breakers for my HVAC are turned off. i don't use the furnace. i would recommend using rubber grommets on those knock-out holes to protect the wires from wear due to vibrations.

[@BurninBogey7]

You should also mention when selecting an inverter to power a 110 furnace, always make sure the inverter exceeds the power rating of the furnace.

[@seanshomeshop325]

and note that the generators advertise in peak watts not running watts, in other words they're kinda full of garbage and you have to oversize

[@brnmcc01]

No such thing as a "110 furnace". They're either natural gas, or LP (propane).

[@seanshomeshop325]

@@brnmcc01 yes but he's refering to the power required to run the blower motor and control circuits

[@brnmcc01]

@@seanshomeshop325 I know I was just bugging him. People need to stop using "110" though, that is so out of date it goes back to the days of Edison and DC voltage.... It's 120/208/240 now. Since the 1930's. Or 230v single, 415 3 phase in Europe.

[@BurninBogey7]

@@brnmcc01 smh, some ng furnaces run on 110.

[@stevecaple8192]

I am not a big DIYer but this video gives me a lot of confidence that I can do this. Great video with simple easy to understand instructions. 12/24/22

[@tallll70]

In south most of furnaces are plugged in attic's outlet, so little one 120V outlet lawn more size generator will easily plug and power the 10 Amp blower in furnace.... But if that's the case and power interruptions are the thing, setup some wall mounted or portable furnace in one or few rooms and you'll have heat without any electricity from generators/inverters in case of power down emergency

[@sandwichtube]

I would use a normal outlet. Plug the furnace into the outlet or generator. The electrical utility would freak out if you connected to their neutral. There’s a chance that one of their workers could get electrocuted on a line that they thought was dead. DIY people could connect the wrong wires. Also it has to be a pure sine wave generator for the furnace circuit boards.

[@donziperk]

You are absolutely correct about the neutral. Your idea is exactly what I did. In my area it is very illegal to hook a generator up to your house in any way with out an approved and inspected shunting switch.

[@winklerchr]

I totally thought that's what he was going to do.

[@patcollins1779]

How sensitive are furnace circuit boards to the purity of sine wave? Is it a matter of how long the furnace is on backup power? My neighbor has a generator which does not claim "pure" sine wave and has powered his furnace three times the past two winters with no issues.

[@scottscott4067]

He's not hooked up to the grid at all doing it this way thats why he used the plug it's completely isolated when you unplug from the furnace and plug it into an extention cord. It's still against my code because it needs to be hardwired but it is completely safe for the homeowner and the utility personnel

[@JasonEDragon]

The method shown in the video does have the neutrals separate. Nevertheless, I don't think that it is a big deal as the neutral gets bonded to ground in the main breaker panel. The danger to lineman occurs if you backfeed on the hot wires. I have a whole house generator with an automatic transfer switch and the only wires that get switched are the 2 hot wires. There are separate neutral and ground bars where the respective wires for the service, generator, and home are connected together - and stay that way whether I'm on utility or generator power. Likewise, you can connect your portable generator to your main panel if you have an interlock installed on the breaker panel that only allows either utility power or the generator breakers to be active at 1 time - but not both at the same time. In this case the neutrals are all connected together on the neutral bar.

[@lightitrun5209]

With so many comments on these 3 related videos, forgive me if someone has already mentioned this VERY IMPORTANT safety concern. You should warn about putting a standard lead acid car battery next to an ignition source. Flooded lead acid (vehicle) batteries produce highly flammable hydrogen gas. I know you say this is for emergency situations, but I would suggest using a sealed lead acid (SLA) or a lithium (LifePo4) battery.

[@jrb_sland]

Just for completeness : lead-acid batteries only produce & vent hydrogen gas when they are being charged, not when being discharged. While the furnace is running from the battery-powered inverter there is no explosion risk. Once grid power is restored, take the battery elsewhere, well away from any ignition source, to charge it...