This is a MUST-HAVE for a Healthy Home | Broan ERV Installation

[@MasonDixonAcres]

What did you think of the install?

[@bojangles_bonjangles8000]

Very nice!

[@cornbreadreturns296]

Awesome work - one question, what kind of insulation wrap did you use for the 6 inch ducts?

[@MasonDixonAcres]

It’s a double layer poly reflective bubble, R4.2 I believe.

[@cnettrouer]

I enjoy the content. The only suggestion I would make is to use a work bench/ table instead of working on the floor so much. You both do outstanding work and your attention to detail is 2nd to none. Keep up the good work!

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Much appreciated! You're very right about that. Most of the time there's so much stuff in the garage the floor is the only open space 😆 We will definitely work to change that habit on builds going forward though!

[@Jaker788]

Nice. I installed their side mount 200cfm version not too long ago. I only run it around 70 CFM to meet recommend ventilation, the 200cfm model is just more efficient with the larger heat exchanger. All fairly short runs, some had to turn immediately 180 and then 90 into the duct, so i adapted the 6" duct to 8" and made sure the flex duct was stretched tight and well supported to minimize restriction.

[@matthewdigiacomo8764]

What would this cost regular folk

[@MasonDixonAcres]

This unit is around 1000. Ductwork will vary depending on location and if you do it yourself but we probably spent 100-200 between the pipe and elbows

[@laurieclarkson9180]

Thank you Broan for supporting my favorite channel! And now I know who to go to when I need one or someone I know does!

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Thanks so much Laurie! Much appreciated 🙂

[@billvojtech5686]

Use a trim router to enlarge your 6" duct holes. You can cut a template a little bigger than 6" and tack it to the wall, then run the router around it.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Good idea. On the outside it might have been hard with that frame there

[@MikeRev-w3h]

I'm wondering if you can use one of these and in floor radiant heat only, no traditional HVAC? Single story.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Depends on climate, the ERV won't add or remove any heat but if your summers never get hot enough for A/C then theoretically an ERV and maybe some ceiling fans would be fine.

[@michaelm3255]

Great video! When you get to the main house, would you consider wall stack rather than oval in the walls? It is 3 1/4 deep and will not fight you with the drywall in the way that oval does.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

The hard part is finding the right boot, especially end boots (some call them cone boots). I could only find 8" round-to-oval boots in both configurations from my supply house. I think the ovals are technically 3-1/4 also, but they have to be dead centered and plumb with the wall not to contact drywall which can be tough. I think in the main house we will plan a few staggered stud walls on 2x6 bottom plates for both sound deadening and more room for wall stacks.

[@2ndmileproductions]

One shot… one opportunity! I beat you saying it by half a second! 😂

[@MasonDixonAcres]

😂😂

[@deusvult9083]

I contacted Broan and they stated they will not sell except to certified HVAC technicians. Do you have someone in the company I can contact that would sell directly to home owners?

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Most manufacturers don't sell direct to consumer, even to technicians. Product goes through distributors and Supply houses. Just google the model # you want and you'll find many places to buy it, no license needed

[@MasonDixonAcres]

If you're still having trouble though after looking into local distributors, email us and we will do our best to get you in contact with someone who can help!

[@backwardsrun]

I live in South Carolina it was cheaper for me to order from a company in Florida that would sell to anyone and get it shipped than buy locally which is crazy.

[@Jaker788]

I bought this unit off Amazon, there are sellers out there, just gotta look up the model and find that place. Like Mason said, supply houses likely also sell it and sell to consumers.

[@annettehough2792]

Wow! You have some impressive connections! As usual, I’m very impressed.

[@brookec4637]

A course wood file might have been easier.

[@nolanbillings8426]

How did you air seal the ducts to your zip?

[@MasonDixonAcres]

The preference would have been liquid flash like I did for the water heater vent, but I couldn't seal the pipe directly to zip if I wanted to tape & seal the duct to the exterior hood. The compromise was air sealing at the inside. The exhaust is sealed at the inside of the rimboard, the intake at the plywood wall surface, both with Big Stretch. If I had the headspace put the pipes and boots in prior to rain screen / siding, I would have liquid flashed at the Zip surface, but due to sequencing I just made the pre-flashed blocks to side around.

[@nolanbillings8426]

@@MasonDixonAcres there is so much to think about! It really looks nice though and will work great! Thanks for the reply!

[@JL-hn6hi]

Perhaps you should invent some DIY scales to share in hindsight once a project is done- availability of component equip to DIYers?, specialty tools required?, degree of knowledge acquisition required before project?, skill required for execution?, total novice time required?, etc. . You have a DIY/learner’s mindset (“Build your own house? Well, sure! How hard can it be?” LOL), but people who are not into immersive research and detailed performance may not realize that they’re built differently.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Haha that might not be a bad idea. Ductwork is a pain in my opinion, I'd give it a 7/10 for something a novice DIYer should take on. Actual install isn't that hard, basic carpentry skills - visualize, measure, cut, place, fasten. BUT, sizing, design, and layout is critical to system performance, and there are time-intensive additional steps for air sealing and insulating that very few take the care to get right (even professionals). This is what makes it tough compared to other trades like plumbing or electrical, which of course also have their nuances. Even if you are hiring it out, I would always recommend learning the basics so you can check the work.

[@MattSapp]

For expanding those holes that aren't quite big enough,,,, I recommend one of the "hackzall" type one-handed recip saws. You can get the foot of the tool in there against the sheathing so it's less likely to jump out than doing it with the large base jigsaw like you were here. Metabo HPT's tool in this category can even take T-shank jigsaw blades so you can use a short blade, or you can just use a regular recip saw blade - a 4" one would keep it from hitting the outside sheathing on your 2x6 walls.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

That's neat there are mini recips that can take a jigsaw blade, never heard of that! Thanks Matt

[@billybike57]

I actually had to do a double take, a full episode, must have been filmed months ago but still…..👍🏼

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Haha yeah it was a long project, longest video to date!

[@TheBhavCast]

💪🏾💪🏾

[@dc4nc]

Why put drywall on ceiling of mechanical room?

[@MasonDixonAcres]

There's living space above, so it's fire code. Technically I could've got around it because of the sprinkler system, but it looks way cleaner

[@GSchrades]

I'd probably recommend the M12 rotary tool to widen the hole.

[@MasonDixonAcres]

Borrowed one of those from my old job once to cut hydraulic hoses, those little guys are super handy when you need it

[@GSchrades]

@@MasonDixonAcres yes they are and they came out with an updated one earlier this year

[@kayaker4fun]

I would suggest you consider making your videos shorter in duration. 20-30 minute segments are more conducive than an hour long video.