This mod dropped his temps a TON!

[@bucksbuilds]

Dripping temps all over the build

[@Tony_Chalmers]

This build just drips so much.

[@35manning]

Well, when I get really hot I tend to drip too.

[@wittedgiant5602]

to much drip

[@accelement3499]

legend has it that this pc is still dripping even now

[@ganjagremlin]

Came here for this

[@drfeelgood12]

Dripped my temps today as well! Noctua fans are hideously awesome

[@kasper_429]

With the Chromax line, they don't have to be hideous, lol.

[@ToughLuckK-gu2gs]

I bought the black ChromaMax fans and they actually look p good. just use fan splitters and extensions

[@wellhungfish]

I use the industrial ones still have some brown but mostly black

[@TheFree33333]

​@@wellhungfishyou can buy chromax anti-vibration pads

[@blender8056]

Its not the fans its the heat that gets ya

[@IVIenac3]

Jay, the case top fan mounts were for the previous iteration of the case, where there were 2 exhaust fans attached there (no room for a radiator). They were mounted by push pins into rubber grommets. They just re-used the case top injection mold they already had for the new version, since injection molds are very expensive tooling.

[@DownandOutNYC]

Looked to me like some rubber mounts is what would be used in that location as well. But those mounting holes look too big for any push -in rubber fan mounts I've used or seen.

[@patrickweaver1105]

@@DownandOutNYC There's a .STL file on Thingiverse names Be Quiet - Fan Pin that shows what they look like. They push into rubber grommets Cooler Master supplies.

[@JankieHands]

Im pretty sure that jay said that in other words in the video about being an old iteration. I still think that is a valid critizism, plastic mold are costly, but for a company is not usually that high of a cost overall. I worked for a small company that does plastic products and small changes are normal if it makes the product better (usually for added strenght)

[@Deathcultify]

​@@DownandOutNYC I have the case, the rubber and pins aren't standard. You use the rubber grommets and pins to attach ssd/hdd drives as well. I really don't like them, they aren't secure, I went itx so I can travel with my pc but it's a hassle to keep opening the case attaching the fallen fan and detached drives after long hours of traveling instead of that time to just rest (jetlagged). I should have gone for a smaller sandwich case sacrifice bit of temps but much secure compact.

[@AlekeVideos]

You can literally see the temps dripping 💦

[@SaraMorgan-ym6ue]

yes you can🤣🤣

[@mattyt9999]

Don't ever change Jay, your light hearted, slightly goofy nature is perfect the way it is.

[@ErickWhite-Gronok]

You know Jay, I went to college in the late nineties to early two thousands for computers, network engineering, etc. Back in the day when they didn't want to hire anyone that hadn't been to college. By the time I got out the same people who wouldn't hire high schoolers who knew, and only would hire collegiates, were only hiring high schoolers. Anyway I digress. Watching you do a build where the small things or whatnot tend to get to you, and you working with them more than I do these days, and having to do mods etc even after knowing what you need to do, to get things fixed after RESEARCH EVEN! Actually makes me feel better. These days I work in things not my field, but that still bring me joy if not much money do to the job market around me, but I watch stupid situations happen all the time. New builds I've been super careful with taking me extra time when I have to help out another business, or the local library with volunteered time, or etc... And everytime their's something weird, like a top tier duel fan not sticking over the top of low profile memory if both fans are on, or the air flow not going through the top like it needed too, or the radiator and fan from the AIO I got doesn't want to mount to an area obviously made to mount fans that large, too, I got extra fans for this other case of mine to increase air flow and now I have to try to modify someplace for it to attach too when their is plenty of room for... Well, you get the idea. And I think... "Maybe I didn't do enough research when I looked at all of these. Maybe I missed a spec where it won't hold the HUGE FAN UP HERE that it says it will cause their mounts are in a weird place, to.... Well.. again you get the idea. When I see you and Phil go through this stuff, I am like ... "Okay, it's not just me and I am NOT out of the loop as much as I thought I was."

[@mr.velocitystack4133]

That is a great improvement, but what I don't understand from the beginning of this build is why you wouldn't trim the bottom grate so the fans would not have to blow through the slits to the rad, hence less blockage, noise turbulence and quite possibly lower fan speeds. Anyway, carry on.

[@XeroOmega]

I had the exact same thought.

[@Crunkmaster]

it allows for more temp drippage. dripulation if you will

[@mr.velocitystack4133]

@@Crunkmaster That's not a term I'm familiar with, but I've never water cooled before.

[@tek_soup]

that would require thought and work.

[@matthewprince6157]

Man I love videos that help me drip my temps!

[@Jest7869]

I just wanted to say a big thankyou to the JaysTwoCents team, i just built my first pc, and wouldn't have been able to do it if it wasnt for your videos , u helped me with everything from watercooling to bios/setup, love u guys 👊

[@Upracefan]

The top was designed for fans, they come with the case , at least the NR200P does, and it includes rubber dampener inserts that the fans attach to.

[@_sekr]

real

[@ThomasFarmer21]

The temps pulling up with the drip

[@terryjohnson3100]

I love when my temps drip...

[@mattwright6249]

I picked up a jakeface custom NZXT H510 Acrylic Vented side panel to replace the tempered glass on my case. The vents are literally lined up almost perfect with my air cooled 4090. The cromax black cooler on my 5950x is also breathing a little better. The inlet vents on my case were making my push pull setup choked out. I should probably reconfigure my fans to better suit the vented side panel, but this side panel alone took my temps way down. Keep in mind, everything I have is overclocked, core optimized up the wazoo for being on air. Temps under load in long gaming sessions went from mid 80's on my cpu to low 70s. GPU went from 70's to mid 60's Sometimes the most awesome cooling solutions just need a little more ventilation to get the air moving like it should. I love these types of videos. Some people wake up and watch the news. This is my CNN.... Thanks Jay... keep the content coming.

[@hugepackage3]

Damn temps dripping over time.

[@jeeBisOkay]

TARGET VERIFIED, COMMENCING HOSTILITIES

[@Moonwalk07388]

You're on the right path! You will get better soon! Keep being you!

[@TheSkewedReality]

Im currently saving up for my first open loop build. I cant wait to drip all over my temps

[@klubhead7070]

Techtober has been awesome. Great videos guys 👍🏽

[@FastBowtie388]

Techtober? What's next Noobvember? 😂

[@NineEyeRon]

Techtober is the best thing ever! Big thanks for making my day better from the UK!

[@petert3355]

Blacked out fans, max air flow on them but the stand riser.... say 30-40 mm, add an RGB strip around the inside surface and that would be your downglow. Nice build Jay/Phil.

[@wowdogeful]

These fan mounts on the top panel are populated on the NR200P model which is designed with an air cooled configuration in mind. The fans, mounting hardware and fan grills are included with the case on the NR200P model, it uses some weird rubber bushings to mount the fans in these holes. I have the NR200P model, that fan mounting is kind of a nonstandard thing, but it works really well. The regular NR200 and NR200P don't have that top rail the NR200 Max has, because the motherboard sits a bit higher up in the case. This was done to allow mounting triple slot graphics cards without using a PCIe riser cable, which is not an option on the NR200 Max anymore.

[@SourBogBubble]

Love modding uploads, thanks for the efforts!

[@TheNPCShow]

I did something similar to this with the O11 Dynamic except I sealed all outlets of the case to force all incoming air out the 360mm rad and top vent. No fans on the top rad/vent.

[@DaboInk84]

4:15 The top cover is the same for regular NR200P, which does mount fans to it directly with little nubs at the end of the fan grills.

[@Majorox]

Lmao the thumbnail says dripped 😂 dont dripp all over my temps!!

[@circuitjc]

My N200P does mount fans to those holes in the top. There are push in pins with protector grills that go there. I replaced my stock fans with Noctua ones for more air flow. I have a 240 AIO in the side instead of the glass with the same Noctua fans on it pulling in from the side cooling my 5800X. My GPU is a MSI Suprim X 3080Ti in the bottom. No bottom fans and my system runs CPU: 45C / GPU: 75C. Admittedly the mesh grills on the sides allows for more airflow than the glass for mine. I love this case. I have no ambition to do what you did for custom water cooling but this was great to watch!

[@LISSoundtrack]

Dripped temps?

[@TW-yj2rs]

beat me to it

[@valkyrie1689]

Yeah they so cool they melt the ice from the bling

[@PychStudios]

I have this case! Mine is about 5 years old now and it has the mounting hardware for case fans on the top panel!

[@ishepard2]

@4:34 - I have 2 of the regular NR200P's and just helped a friend do a build in his. The top has case fan mounts with rubber stoppers that normally sit up there. They work great on the regular NR200P to vent the air and I've not had a problem with that. I put 2 Noctua A12x15's in the bottom right next to my GPU to pull more air in and the GPU fans rarely have to turn on unless it's a hard core game. That said, all of us run a side-vent 280 AIO. I run an old ThermalTake 280 AIO in my NR200P, my friend is running an MSI 280 AIO in his, but my wife's has the NZXT 280 Kraken AIO and we've had nothing but trouble with it. We keep having it sit at 65C at idle (Ryzen 7 5800x), despite repasting it repeatedly and it seems alright for a bit but then it craps out again. I'm ordering an EK AIO next week because I'm done with this. My Ryzen 9 5900x doesn't have these problems at all.

[@Excale]

As someone who has a 13900k and 3090 in a loop in the NR200p, using lian li al120 v2 fans for top and bottom, i have noticed that the case temperature rises sufficiently that the nvme heatsink just absorbs the ambient temperature and raises the nvme temp high enough to thermal shutdown during hot days. Isn't an issue if you have AC blasting

[@OptimousePrime]

I had the same thing but different case with the Phanteks Shift (pre revision) so Glass side panels only and holy crap did those drives just sponge the heat 😂 had to swap it out in the end

[@AnticipatedHedgehog]

I love the ingenuity for squeezing better performance out of these SFF cases. I'll stick to small mid/mid tower cases, though.

[@Seizuqi]

dripping temps all in it

[@grahamb6359]

Jay, Just want to say thanks for always putting out interesting content. I have never actually built a customer computer and I am still super interested in your content. Eventually I will get around to saving the money to do my own build. You have a great team and y’all keep up the work!

[@nioxic77]

i like how Jay on the little "omg new merch" pop up in the corner, at 1:22, doesnt wear jaystwocents merch

[@rubyvolt]

I have a LanCool II mesh. Its loaded with 9 120s and 2 140s. All HALO RGB from Cooler Master. 3 of the 120s are on a Deep Cool twin tower six pipe. 3 others in front, 2 down, 1 out back. The 140's on top out. Front revved up with fan control. 9900KF on Cinebench gets to 74C.

[@coreykirkpatrick4392]

@JayzTwoCents On the Nr200 top cover, the regular non max uses the same top cover, and it comes with rubber grommets with pull pins to mount fans to the top cover, you do not need to remove the mesh, the grommets actually push into the holes. You can also get 3dPrint top covers that have an open design on thingiverse, no need to dremel. Coolermaster even provides their own STL of the top cover so you can design your own.

[@AyoItsAntony]

Love your videos, can tell you really enjoy them, it shows!

[@whasian1487]

Welcome to SFF. I love SFF builds because it's more challenging to get good temps in the smallest amount of case liters of space possible.

[@helium5912]

Not really that hard. Just block everything and use a mora.

[@whasian1487]

@@helium5912 I'm not too fond of using a mora. I rather custom design a case.

[@namegoeshere197]

yo jay. Just letting you know i love your October fest. Thank you for doing it every year

[@jimmyhuang7481]

You can flip the top to intake cold air for a further drop in temp. Although I used the mesh side panel, I dont think the glass side will restrict airflow enough to overcome the temp drop of additional cold air through the top rad. It may affect air flow through the bottom rad but I dont think enough to overcome the benefits of additional cold air through the top rad.

[@leakypipe86]

This type of content is some of my favorite on the channel.

[@johnhutchinson2395]

Air in air out... I smile... "Luft rein, Luft raus" was almost my mantra in the mid (?) 80s. The intel 386 CPU was new. Passive cooling CPUs with no heatsink was out. It was common to see a 4mm (or so) heatsink stuck to the 386 with a 30x10mm fan on that (5000 rpm or so)... Obnoxious beyond belief. The only other fan in the case was usually in the PSU. Fan adapters were available from 30 to 40 or 50 or 60mm. But airflow in a case was not a design consideration back then. So out came the dremel... Friends often asked why my PC was so quiet and why theirs were not. Since l lived in Germany then, the answer was in German. Then I usually ended up modifying or helping them modify theirs. This is where you say "Been there, done that !" LOL Since ITX became a standard the Silverstone Sg05 and Sg13 have been my favorite case (same frame)... hand luggage on the plane. They are now airflow challenged and the couple I picked up when they still cost a little over $40 may be the last for me. A little dremel action can help. I have 2 sons, 11 and 13, who will be going to school here in the US next year. They want to learn how to assemble and modify computers. The Sg13 will be a good start. A Lian Li 011 mini, water cooled is next... All the best, John

[@Theorica]

@4:13 There should have been rubber pins for the fans included in the accessory box. The top fans are installed via a toolless design. It is the same for all the NR200 variants. Plenty of YT vids on how to DIY your own system for mounting if you've lost them or don't want to order more from Coolermaster.

[@jamestaylor3805]

Such professionals dripped the ball on this one.

[@mathieubouchard5117]

Actually Jay solving all these problems is part of the fun. At least I find totally turns my Brain on while I'm brainstorming. Its only after its all done and everything works that I notice how fun it all was. I do use lots of curse words and insults to engineers and their ancestors though.

[@candycornpeeps]

You can mount fans in the top. Its in the manual. It uses a tool less design. The case comes with little pins and grommets that hold them in there. I just got my case so I know they are still coming with them.

[@CHR0N1KS]

I removed the upper fine mesh and just put the top panel back on without the mesh. It still looks ok and fits the look of the sidepanel with the big mesh. It dropped my nr200p loop temps by 4°C😊

[@dalstonterry3058]

“Now you can overclock it” is a vibe

[@GregoryShtevensh]

Nearly dripped my phone watching this perfectly edited video

[@OGTribeq]

I have this case and I’m using a 3d printed top hat to fit a bigger top radiator and 140mm fans. It helps a lot. I also stole your idea of cutting out all that plastic crap from the top of the case and it definitely helped with airflow as you said.

[@anosegal]

the thumbnail typo is wonderful, I think it makes the temperatures drip from the ceiling

[@ckojiro]

This dripped temps a ton!

[@dixonmak]

I really enjoyed this 3-part series on Phil's computer. Would love to see more Jay to work on SFF cases, instead of the usual humongous cases!😁

[@iikatinggangsengii2471]

very expensive but make sense

[@nunya73]

8:12 had me in stitches lol

[@_sekr]

the holes for fans at the top are meant to be used to mount fans with their tooless solution where there is a grill that hold the fans, thats why there's holes but they're not meant for screws

[@Gaffler111]

Get a thin strip of brass, or some other metal and cut it to shape to cover the seam on the 3d printed base, or even pla plate and paint it to color.

[@stancartmankenny]

wouldn't the air bubble in the loop have something to do with temps?

[@fredbecker607]

Definitely messes up cooling on a car.

[@Scott-x5s]

JB Weld the seem . Or epoxy it. Then paint it with plastic self etching primmer and paint it black or gun metal. Or any color of Phil's choice. Good job Jay and Phil. Looking to do my next build in that same case. Coming from a 9600KF and a 1070FE from EVGA with 32gb of ram. Looking at going to the 5800X3D and possibly either a 6800xt or 7800xt. I play a lot of Assetto Corsa with mods. I play with a controller for now. One day i plan on getting a wheel. You guys are my inspiration. Especially you Jay. I went from 375 Lbs to 160Lbs in less than 4 years by riding my bike and eating better. Thank you for helping me be better. And keep a passion and hobby of mine that I learned from my dad alive. May he rest in peace. Thank you Jay and Phil all of you for the work you guys do. It means a lot. Too little people and gamers that don't have a voice and platform. Take care of yourselfs. Remember that every day is a gift and a good day. Love you my brothers . Thank you.😊😊 3:23

[@lukecze6129]

Or print in again with seam at the back so you won't see it whet positioned against wall or any other object

[@crawfordbrown75]

Im an engineer and not really understanding? The higher the exhaust temp the more heat you have ejected out of the system. The increased flow is probably the reason for the perception of the exhaust temp drop. More efficient cooling likely came from the air bubble being removed as well

[@runerasmussen8704]

"... So I had to pull air in through the crack" -Quote, JayzTwoCents, 2023. Hehehehe.

[@democracy0808]

It's funny how Phil's pc is just so tiny, and Jay's building skunkworks in that monster of a case. Coincident?

[@fredbecker607]

Compensating

[@Viralbutnotyet]

shwew! Its almost winter! Temps are dripping!!

[@Megaman-Zero-626]

4:30 It's leftover from the orignal design for the toolless fan mounting - NR200 (base model) owner here

[@dkprotek]

Love the 'DRIPPED' thumbnail.... 😂

[@marcossanches7921]

Temps high? I ain't tripping, I'm dripping

[@H4rd5tyl3]

I was dripping from excitement when I saw this video being released

[@craigtpat]

4:30 the holes for the fan mounts use the non screw type plugs. I believe they are made out of silicon.

[@cjmc17]

4:55 jay: cooler master includes some snap in screws to mount fans on top of the case. I own that case for my living room pc

[@markrtoffeeman]

Phil has his own tech support in Jay2Cents

[@CminionX32]

I wish i could do builds like you. I love building pcs and always wanted to build a water cooling pc. I have been building since i was 14 years old and 40 now. The thing that stopped me is in my late teens very early 20s my back went out and my mental issues got extremely severe. I am disabled now and can't afford it but I love watching your videos to see all these cool water builds and etc. Ty for what you do and great entertainment for someone who always wanted to do this stuff but never could

[@greenprotag]

Correct me if I am wrong, but if the PC internals are within acceptable margins, you will not decrease the heat of the exhaust "per say" What I mean by that is, increasing airflow may decrease the average surface temp, but you are still displacing the same amount of load/wattage transformed into "heat" INTO the environment. So you may decrease the heat localized to the system, but you will still have the same amount displaced INTO the room. Now if your central cooling is VERY good and you are in a LARGE room then it will make the maximum amount of difference. But if you are in a small enclosed room with poor cooling, you will just be more efficiently dumping the hot air into the environment and not magically making it disappear.

[@greenprotag]

Follow up after finishing the video: Ah so we had a sharp increase in intake, a full 10c drop (on average). We are still displacing the same amount of wattage INTO the environment because we have not yet OC-d or anything. There is one way we CAN see a general temperature improvement even with the same load and that's if the efficiency of the system increases. If the system becomes MORE efficient in it's process of converting energy into performance, we CAN see a drop in overall heat dump into the environment. However, I do not think we gained MUCH efficiency with the system dropping 10c WITHIN 50-70c range. I suspect the system was already operating in it's peek "stock" efficiency under normal settings anywhere between 50-70c. Now if we were to UNDERVOLT... we might even be able to have similar performance to stock while getting cooler and pushing less heat into the environment.

[@evernote1568]

Dripping hell, these are some great results.

[@75keg75]

9:15 use the carrot chopping deltas!!

[@evlkenevl2721]

Drippin' Temps by J-Flow ft. PH1L & N1CK Love these performance case mod vids! So many cases have a wtf factor in the design somewhere, and most times can see godly performance gains with even a jank mod.

[@tano99999]

The timing on this video is perfect for me. I just made a fresh air intake for my cpu rad to reduce temps, and someone on Reddit told me in crazy (and he said the laws of thermal dynamics don’t apply to him)

[@d90lrover1]

the fan mounts are for the non max nrp200. the standard nrp200 uses push pins to retain the top fans. im using two of the nrp200's for my kids

[@jodysin7]

Drip those temps in that thumbnail

[@TheGumpyGump]

The more I watch Jay, the less desire I have to watercool anything. lol My kids give me enough headaches.

[@brnmcc01]

For the noise, just ramp down those bottom BeQuiet fans until you achieve neutral case pressure, then speed back up just a tad to where you just barely have case positive pressure. Excessive internal case pressure is just a waste of noise, better to have more balanced intake/exhaust.

[@cryptagion]

Next time you print something like that, you should check out what settings your slicers has for hiding Z-seams. Cura, for example, let's you pick where the seam is, so you could have moved it to a corner or one of the small sides to hide it on the backside of the build.

[@CimInc]

Top panel is the same as the Regular Nr200p (non max) and that has the ability to mount TWO 120mm fans in the top. Which is what I've got and it keeps my temps under 75 in hotspots when looping Port Royal. And that's with Air only.

[@patriksmondrk4835]

If you seal the space on the new stand and paint it with a grey color similar to the PC color, I think noone will question, whether the case came with it or it was 3D-printed. I love ITX builds and seeing how much power you can pack into a tiny form factor, simply amazing :) Greetings to you Jay, Phil and Nick ;)

[@Sile]

This channel dripping bombs every week

[@marxmaiale9981]

Get a 3d pen (not the cheap ones that barely get hot enough to do the job). The good ones are great for adding a bit more material to join different print jobs together. It's not as good as a single big print but the joints can be made decent.

[@AxR558]

I'm doing a similar mod for my standard NR200P to hold a 5.25" BluRay drive and have planned to use car body filler to smooth out the joints and then spraying the base to give it a decent finish.

[@yspegel]

I would dremel out that bottom plate as well, those details can make a big difference, especially in noise.

[@Nelsonasdf]

The drip on this PC is awesome!

[@nosliwec]

I have a build planned using this case (NR200, not the Max). I have dual XSPC thin radiators coupled with Noctua thin fans; one on the bottom and one on the side with open ventilation side panel. On the top, be quiet Silent Wings exhausting. Currently, I am debating about using Barrow's CPU/reservoir/pump combo or a separate CPU block and pump/reservoir combo.

[@BEERNBBQBYLARRY]

Dripping hard, bro!

[@kartdodger]

Jay Makes Phil's PC Drip While Phil Watches!

[@RoseKindred]

If your PC drips, you may need a technician, or a plumber.

[@brookeblackburn2306]

Oh, you want some Dripped Temperatures!?!? I'll show you some Dripped Temperatures!!

[@darkimp1254]

Cleaned my filters. Been so long and they weren't too bad

[@limpanskok]

7:38 exactly that is noted

[@TeckieWeckie]

Jay is dripping in temps

[@Riidher]

It takes 3 fans sucking to equal one fan blowing, if all things are equal, size, speed, etc. It's always easier to pressurize instead of vacuum.

[@BookkeepersHusband]

Came here for the drips, stayed for the drops! Lol

[@kingluuie7879]

Drippp those temps dudeee!!

[@Del_UK]

Phil or Jay, the fine mesh case manufacturers use is better than a solid panel for air flow. What I have found is using diamond mesh grille is better replacement and the bonus is you can use the old mesh panel as a template. (Also looks better. I tried the standard square/chicken wire mesh, worked fine, yet did not look right.)🌡

[@jestah7251]

Now Phil has the drip@!

[@Techspin]

Dripping that heat like the 2X and Zeeee

[@NekoTheLover]

10/10 for the sick drip