This motherboard recap didn't achieve anything - LFC

[@stanburton6224]

In the future, before recapping, check all the voltage rails as close to the chips as possible and look for noise on the power rails. If theres no noise, the caps arent the problem.

[@MasterJediSean]

I wanted to point out that it may be worth checking to see if the bios reset jumper is not on as this will sometimes result in a blank screen at boot (no bios screen output).

[@flibble666]

Aluminium electrolytics are "formed" - the forming current grows an oxide layer on one of the plates which is actually the dielectric. Forming thicker oxide gives you a higher breakdown voltage rating, but decreases capacitance. If the capacitor is left a long time with no voltage applied, the caustic electrolyte etches the oxide layer - capacitance increases, but you lose voltage rating.

[@Wingedmechanic]

Something new I learned today.

[@Shmbler]

I've seen exactly that on a socket A board that wasn't turned on for 15+ years before I took out the caps and tested them. They were Nichicon 5V 3300uF ones and looked fine, but they measured ~10000-12000 uF each (good ESR). I thought "thats strange" and put them back into the board. When I turned the board on for the first time, all the caps swell and vented before the POST was even done, live and right in front of my eyes in a matter of seconds. I thought of degradation and increased suface area myself, but nobody wanted to believe me ("no, its excessive voltage loss that simple testers detect as increased capacitance"). But as you see in the vid, that cap had only 2% voltage loss.

[@paul-alexander]

I have the same motherboard in my file server ( and I did a partial recap last year ), the peculiar thing about this motherboard is that it only supports older low density ddr3 memory , with more "modern" high density ddr3 ram it doesn't post, so Adam might have actually fixed the board but he used the "wrong" memory sticks to test it.

[@marcellipovsky8222]

Not Adam ;-) Graham

[@bitelaserkhalif]

yup, same with dualcore 1156 cpu's, doesn't like 4 Gigabyte singlesided RAM. The 4GB must be doublesided. I have 2 out of 4 775 mainboard that works till this day. 3 of them are G41 chipset, one has both ddr2 and ddr3 (combo m/b)

[@atatopatato]

plus the primary channel on these older motherboards is the one closest to the cpu

[@smada36]

I was recently given an old socket 478 PC that I made into a retro Windows 98 machine. It had blown caps so I swapped them out. Yours certainly came out easier than mine. My board had a huge ground plane that was sucking the heat away. Also managed to get a short somewhere by connecting both legs to said ground plane, but reflowing and removing excess sorted that. Got it working, but you are right it is not worth the repair. I just did it for pleasure. I did an old graphics card not so long back and I would suggest that you can't always rely on the silkscreen to be accurate with the polarity. I hadn't taken a picture and just put them in the way the board suggested. You quickly know when you've done it wrong. All three caps violently turned themselves inside out. What fun.

[@EvilTurkeySlices]

I have a socket a board with bloated caps, it worked ok at first, it then stopped working. I am going to replace the bad ones. And while it may not be financially worth it to recap boards like these, I think it’s still worth doing.

[@arthurmann578]

Definitely glad you decided to show this video! It was fun to watch and failure IS a learning experience just like success! Be well! 👍👍

[@hugosimoes5119]

Years ago, I had to fix a LGA775 motherboard ASRock 775i65G R2.0 with some bloated caps. It was not booting up. The top caps near cpu seem fine but not the ones around agp slot. It was painful to replace the 3 caps because of the limited space. I unsoldered the legs and put some used ones from dead boards and the board started to work fine again.

[@feieralarm]

Glad you've released the video anyway. You can't always win. It was still entertaining and maybe it'll teach someone who wants to get into board repair to not be discouraged, if something doesn't work out.

[@jasonsphar2]

Thanks for this video. I'm very new to doing my own repairs and have not had much luck with most board repairs. It makes me feel better knowing it's not just me that wastes time and money on attempting a repair.

[@louisjones7769]

I repaired my old gaming board by replacing a few Capacitors. It worked. Until a few days later, I decided to hook up a harddrive and set up windows 7. The PC refuses to post. I believe something bad had happened to the bios. I cleared the cmos through the jumper, removed the battery, re-seated everything. There are no beep codes, and the button when you press once doesn't turn off the machine. It turns on but doesn't display anything. One thing I noticed which was very strange before it got confused... Was that during booting from the DVD-ROM, the display would go blank, the power button would do nothing even if you held it down, LEDs will still be lit and the CPU fan will still be spinning. Now i need to find a programmer tool that supports that specific bios chip.

[@louisjones7769]

The chip is by PMC.

[@louisjones7769]

Pm49Fl00T-33JC

[@louisjones7769]

Another thing that I think is the cause is that it was saving settings to the bios and the same thing happened whilst it was saving those settings to the bios

[@louisjones7769]

I recon the bios has got corrupted

[@jbear40]

i work at a repair shop, we dont do motherboard repairs but i want to so i do it as a hobby (or so im learning about it). I really hope what im doing is fine by just finding a confusing question and going down a rabbit hole until one thing can make sense, and then i guess meander my way back up... but I find it much better to watch more mirror-like, or unsuccessful attempts at something that would more closely relate to my own thoughts. Bc usually what they do works and you do the same and it doesnt. Im running on a tangent here, i gotta watch all your vids to hopefully understand somethin in the future. if anyone has good insight of how to get started and gradually get into MO repairs id be glad

[@edwardekiert4790]

Nice video, one detail though: that symbol you drew is a battery. Polarized capacitors have one bar thicker or curved.

[@wthornton7346]

yes, bugged me that did!

[@warenmann1042]

I was needing to test a few capacitors and totally forgot I had a tester similar to that, thanks for reminding me. VLOSS = Initial capacitor voltage loss immediately after a load pulse due to the energy required to complete the switchover. It's an arbitrary figure. As far as the cap with the exceedingly high capacitance (1200 uf), In a capacitive circuit, when capacitance increases, the capacitive reactance XC decreases which leads to an increase in circuit current. So if you knew where you pulled that one from you may find you have a short or faulty component. Always test all components purchased from ebay prior to use, Thank You for the video...

[@len9518]

Great video. This was not a failure. I learned more about caps, than I already knew, especially, ESR.

[@johnbos4637]

26:07 Why isn't your tester calibrated? Short the 3 test points together and follow the on-screen instructions. Takes about 30 seconds to do it then you will get more accurate readings. Bear in mind it will ask for a small value non-polarised ceramic capacitor at one point and you need to clamp that in then press the button to continue. Use a common 104 cap (0.1uF). This tester is based on a German open-source design using an Atmel ATMEGA328 microcontroller and it actually a pretty nice piece of test gear for the price.

[@chris_hertford]

These sort of board repair vids are very interesting, well to me anyway! We can all 'fix' stuff by exchanging a dead part, but to actually repair the dead part is the skill!

[@blackartista]

Vloss is related to ability of that capacitor to retain voltage level according to it's rated voltage, sometimes you measure capacitance and is right on point but cap won't be able to hold its voltage and that's shown by vloss BUT the way those Chinese testers find that I usually have doubts because caps have wide range of voltage ratings ie. vloss of 10% on 250V cap and on 6.3V cap will have very different implication considering the way those testers work (not sure but at least I believe they treat all caps the same and not test accordingly to theirs range of voltage ratings), although you can use to compare 2 or more caps of the same ratings to predicts which one has bad vloss and so pick out which is bad. Good video share I always learn a lot from you brother

[@allaoui38]

Thank you very much for this explanation, I find it better than that given in universities. My understanding of the capacitor behavior was a little blurred, now I understand better.

[@jacobscharmberg7133]

I always think it's nice to see the unsuccessful repair attempts as well. Still teaches you something.

[@OliverWoodphotography]

This was a timely video. I have exactly the same problem with power electrolytics on an old Intel MOBO. The system was behaving really oddly with intermittent boot errors and repeat corruptions of the boot partition on the SSD! Had a look at the board and sure enough I have bulging caps. Think I will replace them and see if that fixes the problem.

[@Adamant_IT]

It's a valid strat! Just didn't work for me this time.

[@patricktrakzel9657]

The cap testing really showed the failure. What you also could have tried is leaving out the graphics card ( although it gave you an E 1 ) and put the monitor on the internal graphics.

[@paul-alexander]

P.S. the memory sticks that came with the board look like high density ones ( low density memory sticks usually have chips on both sides )

[@tongravity5668]

Nice recap video Graham,appreciate it!

[@monkeytutz2]

Great as always Graham, while you may not have been successful I still learnt something. I always thought you were supposed to mount everything flush to the board

[@Adamant_IT]

Depends on the components. Flush to the board is nice and neat, but certain components like electrolytics, crystal oscillators, anything that's not 'solid state' likes to have a tiny gap so it can move or expand ever so slightly.

[@williamjones4483]

There are lots of electronics "out there" that have a small space between the component and the printed circuit board. There are also a multitude of electronics with no space between the components and the board.

[@Rose.Of.Hizaki]

I think the most important thing with repairing things (regardless of its age and what it is that youre repairing) is that you have absolutely no idea if it will work or not even after you've done the best repairs that you can, especially when it comes to diagnosing electrical goods. There could be a hundred other things wrong with it and its usually the smallest most obscure thing that is never spoke about that plays the tinest of roles that kills the entire system when it goes down or prevents it ever from being powered on again. Nothing ventured, Nothing gained. Chalk it down to a learning experience. Do or DO NOT, there is no TRY

[@Adamant_IT]

Yup. Diagnostics are often more a matter of "fix it, then try to sell that solution to the client" rather than "figure out what's wrong and offer to fix it for a price".

[@coctailrob]

@@Adamant_IT yeah, sometimes you don’t know if something is fixable until you fix it

[@paulfischetti248]

It is possible, for example, that particular capacitor that was leaking (3.1 Ohm), as displayed, may have damaged some other chip, by allowing voltage higher than the gate, could handle, and basically cooked, the logical aspect of the chip, and thus the reason it will not Post. And, agree with comments below, sometimes, seeing a repair fail, is interesting, as one that works.

[@stub1116]

I know you have heard this before, but failures teach more than success does. Good job - was worth watching this video.

[@Edman_79]

Been there, done that, sorry to see you having the same experience. It sucks when you invest time and usually quality caps that you'll surely need later somewhere... all for nothing. At least this time people learned plenty of stuff. Thanks!

[@simeonjohnston5941]

Might be harder to use them, but you can salvage those caps for later. Just with short legs...

[@tomiedotson1050]

I would highly recommend using a solder slurper (sucker). They will make your caps and other part removal very easy. I started in electrics in 1961, from the old tube TV's to commercial transceivers to CB's. I really like your repair show. You know more about computer repair than most . Note: replacing and re-soldering is easier as well. Most of the old solder is removed.

[@tech_jims]

Great video pal carnt win em all 🙂

[@filenotfound__3871]

I have seen some dead PSUs beeing started up with a heat from a hairdryer, can you read any differencee between a failed cap and a hot failed cap? Also about the motherboard, the ripple produced from a regulator with a failed capacitor can cause damage to the thing they are powering, guess how I found out.

[@swisspeach67]

To do a "Big Clive"... I'll add this expression to my vocabulary 😂

[@DanielsGameVault]

Couple of points: 1. great video nonetheless. It's nice to see more "failed" attempts, just for the entertainment factor and to help other techs realize failure is perfectly acceptable, other than giving the same predictable success each time. 2. the symbol for a polarized cap is with a curved bar (like an umbrella) for the negative leg. 3. my 2 cents on the MB: possibly failed clock generator (need scope to check it) or BGA gone bad on NorthBridge (given the memory error code, since the NB is the memory controller, if that's anything to go by). Could try taking the heatsink off the NB and blasting it with hot air just for funzies - nothing to lose at this point. I once got one going by doing this and it did much the same thing: gave me a code on the PCI tester, but nothing else. Cheers

[@hisgen01]

Halfway through the video I suddenly realised this board looks awefully familiar, turns out I have the exact same board lying around 😂 Graham, do you need a favour? 😉

[@unimportant5122]

There *can* be a downside to low ESR capacitors. Some negative feedback loops (some voltage regulators for example, not all, depends on the device in question) depend on the ESR zero in their frequency compensation scheme for some phase boost. These systems might become unstable or suffer poorer step response with low ESR capacitors (due to decreased phase margin).

[@minilab9030]

Interesting. This is advanced stuff. Had never thought about whether having low ESR caps could ever be a 'bad thing'. Operational amplifiers came to mind when you mentioned 'negative feedback loops', (which I recollect only require resistors and ceramic caps)...so this looks like a subject I need to learn more about...fancy stuff

[@unimportant5122]

@@minilab9030 Any system that regulates something typically employs negative feedback (When the output is too small it has to be increased and vice versa). Delays (phase shift) in the feedback loop will cause instability if they add up to -360° (because the feedback becomes positive at that point). Therefore such systems have to be designed so that the loop gain is lower then unity at the frequency where the phase shift reaches -360° (in reality even sooner then that, you want some margin, called "phase/gain margin"). These techniques are called "frequency compensation". Because the LC filter in a switching voltage regulator causes a -180° phase shift all by itself, it's properties are very important to the compensation scheme. The capacitor's ESR introduces a zero in the transfer function that can boost the phase back to -90° at higher frequencies. Changing ESR moves this zero. This applies to op-amps aswell, but most well-known opamps are already internally compensated (using a dominant pole, basically they are slowed down to ensure stability). So as long as you only use local feedback and don't do anything "stupid" (such as adding gain in the loop) they should be stable without much effort.

[@racoonartworks]

The video definitely was worth sharing anyways. Learned quite a few new things about caps :)

[@nian60]

That's OK. I'll watch anyway, because I like listening to your voice.

[@elizabethtorres6069]

Take the memory out... please continue part 2.. I would, do BIOS and then remove the Memory cards, clean them a bit, or replace.. if nothing then give up... Oh! was hoping for a part 2, ah well I still enjoy watching, and learning. Thank you Graham.

[@jamestonge5066]

well done Graham I really enjoyed this video, I am trying to learn about this stuff, I am 70 years of age in bed with me bad back and find your videos very relaxing, keep up the good work, cheers from Ireland

[@andycdgreen]

Cheers for trying to fix it Graham, I’ll try and swing by at some point 👍

[@totalgaara]

One advice, not from me but from a french KZbinr (well Peertubeer now), when he have a failing device (he does mainly old hi-fi/vhs and playstation stuff) that doesn't work properly with bad cap, he heat the cap with a hair dryer to make them "work" temporary and see if there is some life, usually, it work really well, if this advice can help you :) You're video are great to watch, i'm an IT student, last year to do, and i really want to do the same as you because i love this, and your video help me to learn a lot for board repair

[@deelkar]

The problem with all the 5V rail caps being faulty means that there also was no surge buffer in case the 5V rail or the 5VSB of the PSU went wonky. With the amount of components on those era boards running directly off of 5V that's a concern.

[@MASTERJPV]

you should check 1.5v ramvcc, ram slot pin no. 51,54,57,60,62 (or on ram vrm coil) 0.75v ram vtt ram slot pin no. 120, 240 3.3v vddspd ram slot pin no. 236 bios cpu cpu socket gmch e1 mostly a bios problem in this motherboard

[@williamjones4483]

My guess would be that most likely there is a broken trace on the circuit board. Components usually don't fail unless there has been a power surge or lightning hit.

[@Wingedmechanic]

Welcome to the complicated world computer motherboards. Here anything and everything can fail without any apparent reason. Hell, even a game that was designed to run on a specific graphics card can kill it. These circuits use a combination of hardware and software to work. There are very tight tolerances even on the arrangement of glass fibre bundles on the board. Then there is a very specific timing and sequence in which the board is powered up to running state (S0 state). Then there is BIOS which will go corrupt just by sitting idle for few years. Any deviation in any of the above from its designed parameter will result in board not able to be brought up. And I didn't even mention about dry solder joint or a broken trace yet.

[@catriona_drummond]

well, that looks like the chipset is on the way out. Reflowing the northbridge or something like that seems a bit excessive though.

[@ikativan2110]

Informative video as always. 😊👍

[@colonelspyder6934]

Let's "TRY TO" FIX Computers should be its own category. Always worth watching your videos regardless of the outcome. :)

[@fredflintstone1]

Nice to see the odd failure sometimes failure is more informative to learning :-)

[@lesabre1972]

Whether this video is a flop or not I still learn some useful stuff and love watching it anyways.

[@thatguy1306]

There are also surface mount capacitors smd ones all different packag size names

[@AcheForWake]

Did you power on without memory installed? If you have error beeps, suggests EC chip issue. If no beeps bin it :-)

[@supergoofy123]

This video reminded me that: I have also changed 6 caps (the others were fine and I was bored) of my ASUS A8N SLI Premium board and it was resurrected.

[@phynyxstryker]

Do you have a list of the brand/type of test equipment you use in this video?

[@PapaMav]

Agree w/below poster; good vid.

[@safn1949]

I just,as in 15 minutes ago, replaced a 1155 H61 Foxconn motherboard with a 1155 B75 board for sata 3 and USB 3. NVMe slot included, I only run one lower end game, World of Warplanes so it is running quite nice for very little cash.

[@billbinder7754]

Add some picture hooks for wall mounting?

[@OthmanAlikhan]

Thanks for the video =)

[@LisaSargent03]

I'm rewatching all your video's lately. Need something to think about now as I want to move on I bet I never do, lol.

[@j.lietka9406]

When you replace caps, is it best to replace them with the same type & voltage/farad ratings? Thanks

[@Adamant_IT]

Voltage rating is the _max_ the cap can handle, so it needs to be equal or higher than the original. Capacitance (Farads) should be the same. Caps have a big tolerance on them though (20% is common) and more often than not, just being in the correct order of magnitude is good enough for a power rail.

[@j.lietka9406]

@@Adamant_IT ok thank you 🤓

[@pcmcg]

Had a very similar ASUS LGA 1155 board fail this same exact way. I just replaced it but was hoping to see what the issue might have been. Good try anyway.

[@sypher0101]

Did you try resetting CMOS, and using different RAM ?

[@zomgsako]

Do you have a link for that transistor/cap/component tester? Is it from aliexpress? Thanks!

[@Adamant_IT]

Should be available from most places, ebay, aliexpress, banggood, etc. Here's an example eBay link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234284775298 Only difference is that I've modified mine with a USB recharged lipo, where the base unit is 9v powered.

[@adamahmed6167]

It’s the chipset, it needs to be reflowed or replaced , I recall well back in 2006 I got three motherboards fixed through gigabytes official repair centere and all of them had the same symptoms!

[@onegamer5235]

Good video, I have questions how can you know is the bios chip in laptops because I see a loots of similar chips in the borad

[@Adamant_IT]

There's a lot of small cues that give it away, but the main one is the shape. Most BIOS chips are either WSON8 (flat rectangle) or SOP8 (square, 4 legs each side) The only other SOP8 packages you're likely to see are mosfets, and you can spot those because they'll be part of a power circuit (and have capacitors, inductors, etc nearby). The last cue is just to check what's written on the chip. There's only a couple of common brands for BIOS ROM chips, such as MXIC, Microchip, Winbond, and they tend to have that brand name written on the chip (unlike mosfets, which only have a part number) so if you see a chip out on its own, and it has winbond written on it, that's your guy. Keep in mind that a lot of laptops have more than one BIOS chip as well though.

[@onegamer5235]

@@Adamant_IT thank you very much

[@manISnoGOD]

goodday sir did you test the mosfets

[@kintag4459]

Thank you M.r

[@efanutz]

are you sure that the capacitors where putted in the right polarity ? becouse the minus is white strip also paint in board and needs to corespond with the white line of the capacitor

[@johnabrahamtangkilisan3090]

for the first clean the both dim slot with alcohol or thinner and then put in memory again turn on power motherboard if still error accour then Please check with selector multimeter countinuity on dim voltage, usualy the both dim voltage are broken connection, so just put wire on pin 3.3 or 3.7 volt on dim1 slot in the back motherboard to dim2 , its work with me, or , may be can help

[@Karl_Levine]

I don't know where all the techs are. But I can't tell you how many of these Asus 1155 boards i saw fail like this. It's an Asus Plague with this. I went through your attempts as well with some of them before realizing this is an Asus plague with many of their 1155 boards, matx especially.

[@RixtronixLAB]

Nice video, keep it up, thanks :)

[@mansjacobsson5823]

Thank you for posting it! I'm hooked, you have taught me a lot by your videos! One question though, why don't you ever measure the power over the mosfets/buck converters and various components surrounding them, like you do on laptops. Is it because the error codes lets you narrow down to the right ballpark Again, thank you for making electronics available for us, curious people:-) Måns

[@Adamant_IT]

Mainly because if you have "fan spin" where the system has turned on, it's probably not a power issue. It could still be a rail that's working well enough for the system to think it's OK, but is low or full of ripple, but yea, we're getting to rabbit holes now.

[@mttkl]

@@Adamant_IT It's not that unreasonable (but will get you into a rabbit hole for sure), I had old motherboard where the fan turned on no problem but the CPU was stone cold. I never bothered to test it further though considering it was an old Athlon x64.

[@OliverWoodphotography]

If you have a failure like this a CPU, PSU, SSD and MEM are all OK and recapping doesn't fix then what other components could be at fault. Could it be support chips like the thing under the blue heat sink?

[@marius11171]

is the cmos battery good and not shorted?

[@roadeycarl]

I have that problem where I don't know when to give up but I really want to know what is wrong with the board! How about testing for chipset / rail voltages voltages? If all looks good there then it's cool to stop... pretty please!?

[@Adamant_IT]

No plans to come back to this for now, but yea, my next guess is Northbridge issues. Likely a dead chip or back solder ball though. It was producing some heat, so it's getting power.

[@Dutch-linux]

solid state caps can also go bad should always check the ESR of all caps solid state or not

[@lesabre1972]

sorry, it didn't work out but I got plenty out of it thankyou very much. very interesting.

[@Near2Future]

The board to me is getting enough stable power as it stays on. Normally, you'd get beeps aswell if it was ram or at least something with no ram in at all. I think the board is just bricked. Still, intresting video :)

[@UKSCIENCEORG]

Capacitors that plants crave. They've got electrolytes!

[@sirfairplay9153]

It was probably never the capacitors, i've owned this exact board, and it had heavy use for most of those years, sold it recently and still worked like new, i also own some slightly earlier boards that have run big overclocks for many years, those boards are still fine to this day, i think the capacitor problems go back a few years before this boards time

[@Panzergruppe22]

My uncle has one, LGA 775 but not the exact same one. It's still working fine even though some capacitors are bulging and even leaking / the insides are coming out of the cross top. I've warned him though, that the motherboard is in the verge of dying.

[@nahuelvaralda2329]

Thanks

[@coyotex850]

most likely a borked northbridge, not really worthwhile to replace that...maybe you can try reflowing it? nothing to lose at this point

[@elizabethtorres6069]

Vloss is the amount of voltage the meter has measured that the capacitor has lost, which is 35%

[@svrdriver]

excellent shows even if the repair did not work you can still learn something. if the board has sentimental value put it in a frame and hang it on the wall like some of your wall art!!!

[@roberttrivett1448]

Liked the video, but was wondering why you didn't buy a new Asus P5g41t-m Lx V2 Motherboard from China ($39.94US).

[@machenka]

Don’t you need some kind of ventilation when working with leaded solder or? I really would like a good cheap alternative to that toxic stuff.

[@jackcheefer]

It looks like a failure of the northbridge, or the voltage regulator that powers the RAM

[@ste3191]

Hi, I'm struggling to debug this problem on my laptop. As soon as I unplug the charger, the CPU speed drops to 0.48GHz (BD PROCHOT triggered) To make it work again up to its speed (2.2G) I need to unplug charger AND battery, and power up again with either battery or charger. This happens with Linux too, so it's definitely an hardware problem, the BIOS battery is ok. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

[@gaucovyaero]

Very fun video. I would really like to see how to fix this issue though :D

[@myblack6636]

Change the cmos battery, some old boards doesn't boot with emty batteries

[@nzcym]

1) The labor and shipping cost is way more expensive than the capacitors themselves; therefore, using solid electrolyte capacitors to replace the faulty ones. 2) The main reason for the capacitors to fail - the work load and environment temperature are reaching the design margin; therefore, buying low ESR solid electrolyte capacitors and increase the spec (e.g. 6.3V 820 uF --> 9~12V, 1000~2000 uF) should be able to prevent the similar failure in the long run. 3) Using proper soldier removing tool. 4) Dead CPU won't turn on cooling fan. 5) Buy a PCI/PCIe diagnostic card for PC.

[@etso6266]

Have you tried cleaning the PCI-E slot that could be a reason why you don't get a display on the GPU because of corroded pins in the slot fixed it with contact cleaner of WD-40 and a wire brush that could fit in between the gap

[@theonewhowas7709]

how does one go about.. resetting the CMOS or bios.. after having the cmos battery out for 2 days.. and the jumpers.. havnt worked.. i changed the setting in bios the CHD or UEHF i think were the choices... and when i changed it.. i cant get it to boot now.. and cant get it to reset

[@Adamant_IT]

Can you get to BIOS setup? Or do you have no picture at all now? If you have no picture (no POST) then check the voltage of the cmos batt, it should be 3v or higher. Otherwise, your problem is elsewhere, and I'd start trying different RAM, reseat CPU, stuff like that.

[@theonewhowas7709]

@@Adamant_IT yea.. no picture .. after i selected that option.. it went black and rebooted.. then its been screwed ever since.. had to get a new motherboard .. it sucks.. but i did get a pretty sweet new motherboard.. i went with the msi z590 wifi pro but.. i just now checked the cmos voltage on the messed up one.. its 3.11v thnx for the reply :) i think when this i happened... i selected UEHF and thats when it happened.. and im probly saying the abbreviations wrong but i think you understand what im talking about tho

[@Adamant_IT]

Yea boot mode (UEFI or Legacy/CSM) handles how windows boots up. Absolutely will not prevent the board POSTing. Something odd happened there... but oh well. Enjoy the shiny board at least!

[@theonewhowas7709]

@@Adamant_IT yea thats it.. i changed it to UEFI then it went black and rebooted.. and it just goes to black screen and says somthin bout insert bootable drive im pretty sure is what it says

[@KrissBartlett]

pretty sure he can get another board the same second hand i know i have working one similar

[@davidm7640]

If not BIOS and capacitors it's probably a chipset or a multicontroller. Could be a battery too.

[@johnbos4637]

3:45 Hehe! You mean Low ESR Capacitors. Get your terms right!

[@41djbrooks]

just a guess have you checked the bios chip to see if it is dead or corrupt? I enjoy watching your videos

[@Adamant_IT]

I did reflash the BIOS, and it would've verified at the time as well, so I don't think it's that. I think the northbridge (PCH) is dead.

[@41djbrooks]

@@Adamant_IT reball it I know it is a waste of time for that board would be an interesting video

[@repdata1208]

If you connect the 4-pin connector, the board works! LOL

[@Wingedmechanic]

There are many reasons people want their old computers to be revived. I for one am trying to revive my old P4 864 PERL motherboard after almost 14 years of its demise. I am no motherboard expert, but with lots of effort and time I could bring up a totally dead board back to a stage where it beeps when RAM is removed. If I could revive it, I will be able to run my old DOS and windows games and software in it.

[@2009numan]

capacitors usually have a stripe down them indicating the positive leg

[@rayburke4386]

NO the capacitors have a stripe down the negative leg, and the positive leg goes in the square pad on the board. The white D circle is for the positive side. Look at the board pictures. sometimes they have a plus mark at the positive pad. Ray Burke Electronics Technician Later.

[@radio-ged4626]

Answering your questions: Can capacitance go up on a failed capacitor? Answer: Yes if your tester works out the value based on charge time. If the capacitor is electrically leaky it will take longer to charge giving a false reading on the tester. What is V Loss? Answer: Loss of charge over a given time in percentage. Another indication of it being electronically leaky.

[@j0eb0t0]

lga775 ddr3 can accept 2gb 8chips, or 4gb 16chips. (low density rams). good video btw.