This Old Quonset Hut (Ep. 2) - Framing

Resuming our DIY quonset hut project - framing it out, insulating it, and turning it into a proper wood working shop. This will be an ongoing video series. Please subscribe to our channel if you want to follow along with the project. +AMDG
#quonset
#workshop
#homesteading

[@kyleswift9422]

Hey if your insulation isn't tight to the steel frame it will still condensate and will cause mold. You can't have any air gaps that's why everyone sprays them

[@sharibuck9288]

What great videos! You explain so well, you give me the confidence to try something similar. Thank you so much for sharing!

[@joycejudd5109]

what a gift these videos are going to be for anyone with a qhut that wants to improve it!!! Well done and greatly explained!

[@StIsidoresFarm]

I hope so. Would be great if we could save time reinventing the wheel so to speak!

[@mcanning51]

Good information and video, I would use Red Gard on that bottle of metal to prevent water intrusion.

[@The_Brew_Dog]

I went with a radiant barrier for insulation. I used 1” foam blocks between the building and the barrier to create an air pocket. It actually does pretty decent for what I need it for. I’m not living in mine, it’s a year round workshop so I’m not as worried about it retaining the heat/cold when I’m not in it. It’s a pain in the ass to install, thought abott it framing first but didn’t cause my building is large. I like quanset but they are definitely some drawbacks.

[@northmanlogging2769]

I'm a couple few years late to the party here... them screws that stick out... get some wire fencing (chickyn whyre?) a pile of extra nuts and some big ole washers, attach wire to walls leaving it a tiny bit baggy, then spay foam the snot out of it... no more chunks falling off, then you could just buy some steel shelves for storage... and or work benches... but sure go ahead build a shop inside another shop its your money

[@craigmonteforte1478]

i’m a retired Woodworker i completely envy you for having such a cool building to turn into a shop i had to kind of chuckle about you talking of some of the Wonky parts of the building that was built or owned previously by a bunch of pot heads lol sheathing the interior walls with OSB will be nice that you can attach anything wherever you want or need in the future especially nice for a Woodworking shop that is always evolving with technology and other improvements i worked for a pretty large Commercial Woodworking company that specialized in Architectual Woodworking for commercial properties it’s nice to be able to have adaptability in a shop for swapping out machinery that often means relocating electrical and /or pluming and dust collection

[@curtwarkentin6167]

Trust me on this one.. those LED lights will last you a very long time. I installed some on my front porch around 10 years ago and put them on a photo eye so they turn on every single night once it gets dark out. They survive canadian winters as low as -50oC outside. And the only light that broke was due to a kid vandalizing it (the rest are still going strong). So I think you will like your light for a long time. Other than that I love the job you are doing. I'm also a carpenter by trade and love to see a quality build on the go. I think it is safe to say yours is a quality build. I'm waiting to see how it progresses since I need a qhut at my farm eventually as well. Good to see what you come across and how you deal with it sir. :D

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thanks for the kind words and the feedback about the lights. We're really happy with them so far.. We're working on a number of other projects that demanded our attention on the homestead, but hope to get back to the quonset hut soon. God bless!

[@andrey33region29]

Гениально!

[@StIsidoresFarm]

It's worth noting that for our intended purposes a metal quonset building isn't the best solution. We need a wood working shop/studio and we need storage space as well for tools. That said, this has presented a great opportunity for creative problem solving and we're really excited about how this will turn out. So we wouldn't have chosen to erect a quonset, but we're thrilled it was on the property when we bough it and are psyched to turn it into a proper space for what we want to do.

[@cliffwheeler988]

How many square foot was that building??

[@cliffwheeler988]

How much material did it take to do that so i have a understanding of what im look forward to with my own building i have same one

[@Wingnut353]

Might have been easier to spray foam insulate it to begin with... which would also reduce any leaks as it seals the hut better. Even then you'd only have had to finish half of the area or so for your studio/workshop area and leave the storage area with the bare foam insulation.

[@Sk8rboy420]

You’d make a real good cop

[@MrFlyTWA]

I have a true 1945 quonset hut. They took redwood 1/2" strips and steamed them and placed in a jig to make trusses.. You really should of used spray foam on metal. Use stud welder like used for automotive dent pulling. Could then use studs to secure furring strips for light weight wall covering.

[@BJNeyer]

You have to wash the metal to get the mill oil off. Spray foam sticks to everything, some things you don't want even, accept oily surfaces.

[@nathanrogers8713]

It sticks to everything however metal has a pretty high thermal expansion coefficient meaning that it expands and contracts a lot with heat and cold. The foam has a low expansion coefficient. As a result the difference between the two eventually leads to the foam popping off. Doesn't matter how well it was cleaned beforehand, it will eventually come off. As he noted though, even if it DID work, it would not provide the best solution for them since they need the framing and walls to allow storage and the like.

[@monacook-haught3659]

I have a Quonset hut that looks like yours. What kind of lock do you use for your door? We want to be able to look our door from the inside and be able to unlock it from the inside or outside.

[@PatrickWagz]

Looks good, so far. I'll have to check out the complete series. It looked like the existing plumbing drain pipe and incoming supply lines were on the "cold side" of your intended insulated wall. Is there a way to insulate more behind each of these? Also, do you need to insulate the outside edges of the foundation where the pipes enter the ground, so that the frost doesn't get to the pipes? Finally, we have a refrigerator/freezer in an unheated attached garage. When the temperature inside the garage drops below around 40-45 degrees, the freezer no longer gets cold, and we have to move our frozen stuff to a different freezer over the winter.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Patrick, yes it was "outside" of the interior wall, but because of the way these quonset huts are built, we could pack insulation all around those pipes. That is definitely the most insulated corner of the building. Our fridge and freezers seem to keep working fine.

[@VictoriaKempPhotos]

Have you tried installing windows or doors in the side walls?

[@RandomPerson-re2hv]

How would you add a rain gutter to this for a rain water system?

[@keithdunham6454]

use TSP to clean that black staining up

[@AlcoholFreeAutomotive]

I too have a QHut and have been contemplating insulation.I had considered this same approach but considered the potential cost to be fairly high. The other consideration I had was with the patina forming on all my tools, as you mentioned. My question about the woodframe/fiberglass approach is, how will this structure prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the steel structure. You still end up with a cold airspace between the steel and the wood/fiber structure. couldn't this lead to mold growth in between the layers?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Todd, as to cost, it's looking like the lumber for the framing will run about $1000 total for a 24x30 building. Insulation looks to run another $300-$400. OSB sheathing about the same. Plumbing and electrical will add some obviously. The space around the insulation is a good question and moisture is a good question. Seeing as it is galvanized metal, I'm not terribly concerned about the building itself. With regard to moisture, I'm hoping things will be pretty sealed. Also, we're considering putting in a fan at the ridge to act like an attic fan and pull out the heat in the summer and moisture in the winter. We wouldn't have built a metal building like this if it was our choice, but it was here and I want to make the most of it. The rust on all of my tools is out of control from the humidity in the building, so we have to do something. I'll be uploading updates this week and as the project moves along. Thanks for watching and commenting, and consider subscribing if you haven't already in order to follow along if you're interested. God bless!

[@pulporock]

I would agree entirely, this looks like a big concern.

[@VictoriaKempPhotos]

I bought a new kit with the insulation. They supply with with plastic anchors that screw into the bolts that stick into the building, then you push the insulation onto the anchors and then screw a flat nut on to hold the insulation in place. That's how we going to insulate ours.

[@billmansfield309]

I have acquired a fully clad metal frame , metal roof & sided carport. The previous owners had finished it into a living space and attached it to a metal clad square building, built over the hut. Wood studs and paper backed wool insulation, traditional sheet rock, and a bad intersection between the two structures meant a leaking roof. Mold was throughout. I have gutted the interior of my “quonset hut” and tried patch the leaking roof. I was ready to insulate ( white sided double bubble was my choice), extend power, and install outlet. I’m now exploring a better / new roof. I just started watching you channel and am very curious how yours goes.

[@crowflight3988]

Power wash the THC residue off the walls before foaming first dude! Lots of interesting hiding spaces behind the framing ... which the termites and ants will LOVE once the wood's moisture/humidity is >15% or so. So yeah, the water might be a problem by the time I write this ... if it is any consolation termites and ants love to tunnel and nest inside building foams. .... 100 amp eh? now you know for sure they had 'high' hopes for growing 'hemp' ....

[@Ajkwhatsahandle]

I've also got a big Quonset hut I would like a sink &bathroom in, however it doesn't have any pipes coming inside yet.. Our well is only about 70 ft away and so Im not worried about trenching a line for water and we've got a septic pipe right outside of the structure, but I don't know the best way to get the pipes into the building, our foundation is also very beefy! If you were working on your same building but the pipes weren't already inside how would you bring them in?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

If you look through the series of video you might see the one on running sewer lines. We simply dug under the slab and then drilled through the slab. I would do the same for plumbing. It shouldn't bring about any structural issues.

[@pstreav]

Run it through the end cap if you dont want to drill through concrete or if you need 1/4" per foot drop and can't drill down without losing slope.

[@ronofpei]

Did you add any radiant barrier(with air space) between the steel and the wood framing/insulation? any problems with condensation on inside of steel sheathing or steel structure??? and if so,what was your solution?

[@pstreav]

I am working on a 36'w x 54'l x 15'h and will frame similar using attic foil to radiant+vapor barrier then install 6" of non backed insulation. Leaving air between the foil and metal for some air movement with a small vent fan pushing it through. That seems to be the cheapest and best option yet labor intensive. Spray foam today is astronomical in price and 2" is simply not enough r value.

[@robertgifford1678]

will you not trap moisture between the metal and the vapor barrier on the wall? Any moisture will condense in that space every time the dew point is reached. I see mold and rot in the internal wood frame in a few years.

[@billveek9518]

Not if he's using a wood burning stove, the combustion sucks moisture out and the dry heat produced eliminates ambient moisture.

[@CyberFenix000]

Is your video name a reference to "This Old House"?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Yes, I grew up on that show, so this was a tip of the hat.

[@keithdunham6454]

a quicker wat to have framed that would have been to used 2x4 s flat , screw from the outside in with sealed washer screws also use chicken wire between the wood and the metal -- then use the spray foam ---- the wood and the continues hardware cloth would never let the foam break loose

[@danmorris6387]

@Mr Sunshines name calling is a sign of weakness and. Low Iq. You mastered both. The idea you shot down twice, would actually work, without drilling new holes. Proper layout and use longer screws inoriginal sheeting holes.

[@danmorris6387]

@Mr Sunshines loser

[@jennysebbo927]

Hello. What State are you in..?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

The Great State of North Carolina!

[@therealDavidPressler]

An arch is three times stronger than a square off grid bunker homes next evolution

[@46rambo49]

putting untreated lumber directly on concrete is never a good idea even with the treated wood you should use a foam or other type of barrier

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Sorry - didn't get a notice about your comment. The wood against the concrete is pressure treated. Thanks!

[@garnetsuss4881]

How are you dealing with condensation and bolt and seam leaks? Quonsets aren't like attics, thers's no ventilation in rhat aor space between the insulation and the metal ao condensation will get trapped. You could spray the outside with a membrane to solve the inevitable leaks, but that doesn't mitigate condensation, the membrane would cost about $2/sf too, depending where you live Unfortunately you built yourself a mold factory dude, also a haven for mice. I know it's incredibly expensive, but you should take the framing down and spray foam. If you aren't concerned about mice you could spray the outside with a membrane and dense pack cellulose. Dense packed cellulose would solve the condensation issue and the membrane would solve leaks, but mice would love to live in and tear apart the cellulose. Cellulose is much much much less expensive than spray foam. You posted this 2 years ago so you definitely have mold in the walls already. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

[@davidhinson4820]

Your gonna have aloooot of mold problems when the metal condensates behind that absorbent fiberglass. You shojld at least put plastic on the backsides of the frame pieces you put up. And maybe did a rubber spray coating on the metal.

[@pstreav]

All depends on the location. And there are many mold grow free insulation on the market. The metal heats in the sun and evaporates much of any condensation if the water is allowed to shed down. He only needs some vent and air flow to solve any potential mold with normal fiberglass insulation.

[@billveek9518]

So how did it go? All these gherkins are saying water will condensate and the whole building will be a joke, were they right? If it were me I'd Elsastomeric coat the whole quansot hut from the outside

[@garnetsuss4881]

A membrane would mitigate leaks but not the condensation. Unfortunately he 100% has mold in his walls, probably a tonne of mice too. He really should have consulted someone who knows what they're doing before he tackled this. Looks like a nice guy, I feel badly for him.

[@billveek9518]

Not if he used radiant heat like a fireplace or stove, he also could have sealed the framing from the metal with a membrane, I guess will never know because he hasn't responded so it's all speculation.

[@Daily_Llama]

First mistake made was not disassembling the Quonset before rehabbing it.

[@patricknoland7402]

Why? What would that accomplish? I'm curious.