How to Insulate Ductwork | Ask This Old House

[@lilew]

Thank you for this video! It's very clear and concise. I'm going to be replacing all duct work in my old home. More than likely, it's over 40 years old. My family and I are constantly getting sick this winter in this newly purchased home that's from the 1880s. This will be the icing I can put on the cake after replacing the ducts. Thanks again.

[@timb7775]

I saved at least 25% off my gas bill just by sealing all the ducts in the basement. I used both foil tape and duct seal. I used a plastic putty knife to apply the duct seal, brush wasnt working out well. Whoever installed the heating did a hack job so there was alot to fix. There were openings in the duct work everywhere that it wasnt even pulling air from upstairs, it was just sucking in all the cold air from the basement. The heat now works so much better, can feel the return air vent really sucking the air into it now. And no more basement smell coming up through the vents. Now the air filters arent getting nearly as dirty so quickly. I rent and did all the work myself, the money I spent on supplies really paid off with the savings on the gas bill in winter. Now im slowly buying rolls of insulation and wrapping the ducts to save even more on the gas bill.

[@rosewoodsteel6656]

Great video! Boy, have I done a lot of this in my day.. Couple of thoughts: Before taping the metal seams, use a dust brush to remove loose dust and debris before taping. (The metal needs to be clean and free of dust.) When cutting the fiberglass, remove at least 1" of insulation from the length of the wrap at one edge, to create a flap which will overlap the lateral butt joint before taping (industrial scissors are good for this). After installing with the aluminum tape, wrap high quality duct tape around the pipe/duct circumference every two feet or so (nylon ties work, as well) to help hold things into place. I'd put a few staples in the duct tape to ensure that it will stay there for years. Make sure to keep surfaces clean before using any tape or it won't stick for long.

[@Balticblue93]

I definitely agree with you when using this type of product. There are a lot better products on the market for insulating ducting inside and out.

[@lilew]

Thanks for your input also. I'll be using as many tips as I can for my upcoming project.

[@jacobmarley2417]

Staples in the duct tape, The hell are you even on about?

[@Josepadillamondragon116]

im an isulator myself at construction sites and i would recommend wearing a 3m dust mask and long sleeve shirts to avoid inhalation and irrtiation to throat and skin. also grab a ladder and seal it on top to minimize getting insulation on yourself. also we use foil tape but put plenty of staples as tape tends to peel after a while. good video tho#

[@williamwinder3466]

Instead of staples you could use bailing wire. I do and its never going anywhere. Also I would agree to the dust mask, however, when its 140 degrees in an attic a little skin irritation is the last thing on your mind.

[@leeknivek]

usually you get a good kind of tolerance after crawling around in the stuff for a while - now, horse hair, that's the stuff you can't get used to.

[@MyBallzGotShocked]

At 7 minutes when he uses the tape to measure the duct diameter rofl. Hope he added the 3 inch thick insulation to his 2pi(r) tape calc for the second piece he cut, then re added the 2 inch overlap on his 3rd cut. Seriously a good laugh

[@MyBallzGotShocked]

Oh and the poor bastard isnt even using skrim tape for the foil back. Hes using warm air foil nashua. Protip - nashua foil tape is bomb for rigid pipe and their duct tape is garbage, then shuretapes duct tape is bomb (827) for flex duct, or fixing the wing of an aircraft, but their foil is garbage

[@jfar301]

Lol am insulator. I'd rather kms then do that for a living. Thank God I'm a plumber

[@blueseruser]

Nice to see you are standing up, try this on your back in the dark, with heat or cold and all ductwork in place!

[@hummarstraful]

Do you want an award? stfu.

[@undrachevr]

I learned so much from this episode. Thank you so much

[@nathensurman3884]

Thorough, clear instructions with brief explanations for the reasons why. Nice one!

[@xmassan20906]

On larger ducts, foil tape may not hold. Use zip ties to secure the insulation and foil tape to cover the seams.

[@williamwinder3466]

If I used foil tape at all I not only would have been fired I'd get hit with a hammer. However using foil tape on insulation just to hold it in place is okay as long a you use bailing wire so no matter what it can never come off.

[@culbyj3665]

no , no, no you dont depending on the cfms of the blower. tho even then in residential your stretching it fella. Come on ? bailin wire, Reallyyyy.??? maybe you dont know how to crimp, cut or even properly size up your joints that you feel the need to seal and reseal You got some splainin to do ?

[@johnnichols2710]

Attention to detail. Great teacher as well

[@mattbeazer5896]

At 4:43 - Tommy would have a fit if he saw an HVAC guy notching that floor joist like that. Holy Moses.

[@Psychlist1972]

4:37 holy crap that giant notch in the joist.

[@smacleod69]

I noticed that too!

[@nowaythatnamewastakn]

Pete Brown *duct not even in notch

[@leeknivek]

could have been from the old install

[@Randy2747]

I belive I would be sistering that joist asap!

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

@@leeknivek I saw a home two years ago that still had the original Sunbeam gravity furnace (with a vintage natural gas burner conversion) and the ducts were much bigger than these, so you might be right.

[@JohnSmith-iw9ky]

Good going next time show us how to do it in a attic with no room and 110 degree heat and blown in insulation.

[@jasonludwig2488]

Step 1: Open attic door Step 2: Promptly close attic door Step 3: Don't repeat

[@jennmartin851]

This comment right here. ❤️ I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone actually sweat in their videos. I want to see someone in the US southeast in the dead of summer balance between two 2x4 joists and insulate a rigid duct while wearing a respirator after they’ve worked a full time job for the day.

[@TheChupacabra]

@@jennmartin851 do it once for your house, and when it’s done, consider moving before every going back in the crawl space or attic

[@jcmoney11111]

Or in about 36 in of crawl space in a house built in the 40s that has plumbing and electrical haphazardly ran all throughout.

[@hummarstraful]

Aww.....need a tissue? stfu.

[@zeframcochrane1183]

What Happened To The Gravity Furnace Did It Get Replace/Change Out

[@DordiHOTS]

Informative. The coal dump room for the furnace reminds of the old Tom and Jerry episode.

[@theorangepersonman]

I thought I was the only one

[@DrWenChannel]

Thanks for the video! If the gas furnace is in the basement and it's kind of cold and damp, should you (and can you) insulate INSIDE of the gas furnace and if so how do you do it? Would using fiberglass padding inside of the furnace a good idea? Thanks!

[@timb7775]

Insulating inside the furnace is a horrible idea. There's no room around the heat exchanger. And down where the blower motor is will just suck up and blow insulation dust through the vents and all over your house. Although it's a good idea so seal any penetrations and panel gaps of the furnace.

[@servant74]

Seems like you should insulate the return duct work also, to keep what heat it already has and not need to replace that part of the heat. But I could be wrong... It has happened before!

[@williamwinder3466]

You are not wrong. If fact you could not be more write

[@servant74]

The best answer is to have the ducting within the insulated envelope of the building. In retrofits that is not always possible, so this is a reasonable compromise.

[@williamwinder3466]

servant74 Assuming that the basement is insulated.

[@youngy6200]

Am a HVAC tech you are right my friend!

[@Tracker5111]

OMG 😳, nobody called a contractor To do it for them?!? Actually informative!

[@rebeccarice3266]

Adding insulation to the duct work in my heater will it also quiet it ? Or o I need to open the return mine is at top of wall should the return be lower. ???

[@isniperu1]

You can also use a me surfing tape to measure the duct then add some xtra inches to that cut lep tape staples no staples the tape on the insulation will peel and phelp and white paint cp30 or cp34

[@isniperu1]

Measuring tape

[@Type2DarylBTeas]

If you just separate the foil tape from the paper before you tear off the tape and let the paper stay behind, you aren't stuck fighting the starting edge for every piece you need and when you go to clean up you have one long piece of paper and not 150 little ones.

[@johnnichols2710]

The thickness of the insulation increases the circumference I personally would go a little bit more than 2 inches

[@metrazol]

"I brought along this furnace to show how..." "Did... did you just have a furnace in your truck?" "..." "..." "Anyway, the burner here..."

[@aquariuswithfire]

LOL! Right?

[@gingergirl12308]

Would this help with creaky and banging duct work fro heat expansion?

[@jawidofkoj2998]

Jackie Whitesall in a lot of cases it would help though I have run into situations where it didn’t help. Creaky/Banging ducts can be a difficult problem to solve. Sometimes it’s not even coming from the ductwork itself but the flu pipe on top of the furnace. Wouldn’t hurt to insulate the ducts and see if you get less banging

[@fessit]

Did you see at 4:40 where some yahoo cut the floor joist on the bottom to clear the duct. That weakens the floor!

[@hummarstraful]

lol

[@jacobmarley2417]

and yet the floor has been there for 80+ years without any issues.

[@imtyrone7993]

I would cut the insulation at least 2” off at the end of the insulation so you don’t get insulation all over your tape when trying to stick it on

[@isniperu1]

I'm a insulator and we do it way different you to cut one end so you can wrap it better and they sell knifes for cutting insulation the box cutter is better used for the pink insulation

[@markconnolly9326]

Roll is possibly 4 foot wide rather than 5 foot wide, or these guys are pretty dang tall. What I purchased was definitely four feet. Wrapping R8 around a 6 in diameter duct takes about 28 inches, with a two inch strip of fiberglass along the seam removed to create a flange for a nice seam when taping.

[@adampatterson]

Does the fan speed setting need to be adjusted if you also have central AC? With mine, it seems like after a while if it's still too hot or cold the fan kicks into a faster mode by its self.

[@Balticblue93]

It really depends on the type, design and age of your furnace or Air handler. Only the older or less expensive units have the boards you can change the speed taps by just swapping them out. The new ECM units are variable speed or Constant torque. For AC units with speed taps, it is almost always on the highest speed wire tape as AC can be pushed harder with less static pressure. In this video, you cannot just change to the slowest setting for heat and expect it to fix your problem. And the ducts were insulated would get you fired at most HVAC companies. My guys would be in trouble, if that is how they installed our system. Your system sounds like a variable speed blower, which is a good thing. However, if you have zoning then that might explain why it seems warmer or cooler in certain areas at certain times. You might need to have your entire system checked out by a reputable HVAC contractor that specializes in that type of system.

[@vanguardlh9548]

Besides the ducts, why not insulate the furnace itself. Here now it is hot summer, and the A/C is on. The furnace fan blows over the coil to cool the air blown over it. However, the furnace itself (well, the metal panels around it connecting to the ducts) is ice cold. The result is the basement is 63F while the upstairs is 72F. I don't need to waste the cooling in the basement, plus 63F is too cold to reside in the basement. I'd like to insulate the furnace ductwork (above the furnace to the ducts) to keep the cool air from cooling the basement (other than where the ducts exit) and do more cooling upstairs. Seems I should be wrapping the furnace with insulation. Rather than trying to hold up the insulation while trying to tape it together (a 2-man job, but there's just me the homeowner), seems it would be convenient if there was self-stick insulation. There'd be the outer layer foil, an inner layer foil with adhesive and removable film, and the insulation between them. I could then just cut the insulation to fit one panel above the furnace, stick it on, and proceed to the other panels above the furnace. Not only would it lower the thermal gain to the cooled air moving out the furnace during summer, but would also lower the thermal loss of heated air moving out the furnace during winter. The furnace itself should not be cooling or heating the basement. That should be the function of the exits from the ducts ran to the basement rooms. Insulating just the ducts seems to be only half the job.

[@Askalon9]

Will you need insulated ductwork on a conditioned/sealed crawlspace?

[@enkrypt3d]

No

[@jacobmarley2417]

Depends, if your air inlet is extremely cold and it meets the conditioned airspace you will get condensation. If that is a problem for your space then yes if not then no

[@MoreisMor]

Never saw presized insulation unless it's taken off flex. Never saw ductwrap wider than four feet. Never saw insulation installed unless it's stapled too.

[@msseby]

Fantastic job. Thank you for the great ideas!!!

[@estherdavis2401]

need information on replacing an electric box to contain all the others wiring outside the box

[@wholeNwon]

An electric auger moved the coal from the bin to the furnace, if you were lucky. Failing to wear good eye and respiratory protection when handling fiberglass insulation is a big mistake. Cover you skin and hair, too.

[@SurferBum1002]

Very informative.

[@joshsmith9446]

So we overlap horizontally, but do we overlap the vertical seems when insulating pipe over long distance? Like when two of your insulation pieces but up against each other.

[@lindareinen4361]

I have the same situation in my basement and house. My basement is very cold in the winter and the 2 rooms farthest away from our new propane stove. I insulated some of the longest duct work away, cuz they blow Luke warm air. But I have avoided insulating any of the others until I can figure out an economical way to heat our basement. I only have one heat vent blowing down there, it's not enough.

[@Balticblue93]

Depending on the size of your system, you can certainly add additional registers and duct lines, if done properly. There are too many variables for me to make a decision or judgment from here. Your system should not be blowing luke warm air. Do you have a Heat pump system? And just so you know, there are much better ways of sealing and insulating your ducts. First, I would look into the Aeroseal product for sealing the ducts internally and all the leaks in all cracks, holes and joints. Then my company uses a radiant insulated barrier on the external of the ducts, but we live in a very arid climate in Denver and do not have to worry about sweating ducts. It has now been said that Colorado is more arid than Phoenix most days of the year. So, adding humidity is a big deal here all year round. My HVAC business also does Home Performance with insulation and psychometrics. My company would have insulated those ducts much differently and the way they did it there I would consider improper, but people can do whatever they want to their systems. They live in a different part of the country where the weather and systems are completely different.

[@owenshayes]

You need to fold the insulation over itself, staple it together, and then use foil tape to cover up the scheme.

[@bluedinero3055]

How to measure square ducts need to learn fast I'm an apprentice insulator .

[@topdawgentlv7029]

General rule of thumb measure your diameter add extra 10in cut a lap to pull over and staple down tape alone won’t hold it’ll eventually come off

[@deathvalleyalex9485]

What do you think about the soft flexible ducting ? Is is a good product ? Or is it a rip off ? My sister installed a new ac/heater in the attic with the flexible ductwork . I'm thinking it's a rip off . I just don't see it lasting maybe 5-6 years then the plastic and mylar tubing starts coming a part . Especially here in southern California summer heat !

[@jawidofkoj2998]

deathvalleyalex Flex duct is ok if you can’t get real sheet metal ducts but like you suspect they start to fall apart after a few years. But it’s not that big of a problem because you can always replace them pretty easily. No special training required. Just need large zip ties to hold them in place and lots of foil tape

[@bperthel_travel]

Flexible ductwork has lower airflow than solid metal. We only use it where we can't get sheet metal duct in to spaces. I'd avoid it wherever possible.

[@kelvinlyons3401]

The basement is an conditioned space so a little leakage is ok, now if this was an attic nonconditioned space all that would be good

[@sams6090]

but you could just tie in that temperature sensor to the unit and replace the timer?

[@iLikeC00kieDough]

No you cant

[@jacobmarley2417]

@iLikeC00kieDough Yes you can…

[@joshuasmith1838]

Where can I buy these longer widths of insulation? Hardware stores seem to only have 2ft widths.

[@billeddy4357]

Joshua Smith - There are probably heating and ventilation outlets in your area who normally sell to contractors , but will often sell to individuals . They would have products that Home Depot and Lowe`s don`t carry . Just Google those heating and ventilation suppliers in your city .

[@s1esteve]

Nothing brings out the weekend warriors and shade tree craftsmen saying they know better than a "This Old House" video

[@proverbs2life]

I agree! But just because it's on T.V doesnt make it right

[@shaemcparland6456]

@@proverbs2life I think he meant the people commenting were the weekend warriors

[@mae2759]

Why aren't ducts sealed and insulated during the initial install? Even in modern construction, I don't see any gaps sealed or insulation.

[@virgil3241]

Less time spent is more profit for the installer or home builder.

[@KM-ew5rl]

Home builders are known for "roughing in" houses to get the house livable i.e. get most important systems functioning and to code. Anything more is finish work and more time and money which affects bottom line. Small improvements like this aren't necessarily realized when the house is appraised and sold.

[@mae2759]

@@KM-ew5rl True, but you can't seal the ducts after the drywall is up. So it would make more sense to seal them during install.

[@anthonyhill367]

@@mae2759 there are products that can seal existing ductwork from the inside of the duct. It’s not a DIY solution, but they claim to be able to seal a hole up to 4 inches wide or maybe it was 2 inches wide something crazy like that. I think the average cost is around 2k. Aeroseal is the name of one of the products.

[@danielbuffington2041]

Hey guys I need some info. I am currently working on fixing a problem I have with my hvac system. I have a room that is in our basement and the ductwork leading to this room is the very first branch off however the size of the duct is 16in×9in and doesnt connect to any register. It simply blows hot air between the studs into a makeshift vent. A little unsafe and a little bit too large on the ductwork size. I want to replace it it with a more realistic size and was wondering to get the ductwork to fit in between the studs and not rip apart the ceiling to get things to fit can I buy regular 6 inch duct and then bend it to an oval shape and use a vent boot hanger? Or should I use a 6 in. collar and reduce it to a 4 in. flexible duct between the studs and then bend a 6 in to 4 in reducer into an oval shape to fit a vent boot hanger oval connection?

[@stevewilcox1755]

thats the return air, not warm supply.

[@Ultegra10SPD]

9:24 Hopefully they didnt leave that balancing valve covered over/unmarked with insul. -U10

[@GXTOLX]

Where do you get that 6 inch cap to slide insulation over duct?

[@MrMega200]

Just put some painters tape over or cut cardboard to size and tape on. Plus there is alternatives to fiberglass insulation like one inch thick recycled cotton denim rolls you can buy online where you won't need a mask or safety gear to install. That product is called Frost King CF1. Has about the same R4 value as the fiberglass product here.

[@aircooledtx]

To measure fuzz take pipe size X4 add 1" 1/2 for your lip to tape or staple.

[@kingkevin267]

Why am I here, I already know how to do this. Oh wait so I can dream how this would already be done if I had a nice basement like this, and not a crawl space not even high enough to stand up in, and a dirt floor :(.

[@sashaanno]

HELP PLEASE! Can you tell me the requirements of a vertical fan coil unit needed to heat vent and cool a level 4,292 cuft in size? (29L x 18.5W x 8H) This area contains a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, living room and 2 bedrooms. Also can you tell me if any additional equipment would be required to work with the VFCU? My questions are based on the idea of renovating a 3 level house in a way that allows each level to be completely independent of each other, eliminating the need for a commonly shared furnace and hot water tank. Each level with the capacity to be isolated, will have its own electric water heater and VFCU, and the only common area will be a small room on the lowest level, housing the main shut-offs for water, gas and electricity.

[@guysteel]

Can't find that plastic cap for sale anywhere. To help slid the duct wrap / flex onto the ductwork.

[@jacobmarley2417]

Because it is worthless, just suck out any small fiberglass that gets in there or cover it with tape if you're dead set on not getting anything in the pipe.

[@alexanderzarb5268]

good tips. nice job.

[@Latestwithftsnews]

That there mastic, in tucson AZ.... in the hvac world.. call that ...pookie!

[@bluedinero3055]

I'm in Florida it's called pooky every where .

[@paultrigger3798]

I wish I could find a good video for doing duct-work in very tight spaces.

[@MJ69090]

Ditto to that. My duct work doesn't look like that.

[@tstewart9808]

Make it realistic for most of us! Crouched over in a 2ft dimly lit crawlspace full of dirt, dust, cobwebs, and who knows what else lurking in the dark recesses!

[@Tommy_boy007]

If you make more money than me you can spray foam insulate it.

[@EarthtonesCymbals]

@@tstewart9808 No doubt T Stewart and they were acting like they had it rough. They have never been to a "real" house. This is Hollywood BS.

[@emeresbestres1]

@@tstewart9808 That's exactly my point. You just described my crawl space.

[@CompleteComfort]

Maybe they should try to fix the Static pressure or lack there of. Running a supply trunk line will have more benefit than wasting time and money insulating ductwork in an already conditioned space.

[@michaelnash8435]

The guy needs to learn about pressures and why we set the blower speed specifically.

[@MrMega200]

Well from what I understood is that the basement isn't an insulated space so you're fighting against cold ducts in a cold room when the heater has to start up again.

[@brianellsworth4767]

The manufacturers never use the red wire for high-efficiency furnaces. They also run at lower temps because it mixes better with than the old 150-degree air. If anything he should have used the yellow wire or left it alone.

[@Balticblue93]

BINGO! We are in total agreement, that moving the system to the lowest setting was the worst possible thing he could have done. Real HVAC technicians would never do that. I would kick my guys butts for that. That is total nonsense along with that crap insulation job. It is better than nothing but a blower at 500CFM is going to do nothing for that house. I wanted to scream at him when he made that change. If you are going to change it, maybe one tape down but blue is what that system was designed for unless the ESP was sky high or something. But I imagine there was plenty of overhead with that many supply ducts. They really need to Aeroseal the interior of the ducting now and switch the taps back to the higher speed of either yellow or the blue. Red is used for make-up air or ventilator.

[@jonq8714]

That's a clean basement... makes my dirt floor, smash your head on everything pointy arachnid factory look even worse.

[@tycobb8621]

@jon Q “pointy arachnid factory”😆

[@kchilz32]

Don’t forget creepy hose centipede

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

I vacuum our basement's concrete floor just about every other week. OCD, I know.

[@yomomma6492]

Blaine Bugaski I don’t think my basement has a floor

[@williamborrell4219]

Arachnid factory....hahaha

[@eastlandgin]

Pressing down that foil tape with your fingers can give you a nasty cut. Hit it at the wrong angle, it will be sharper than a knife. Instead, scrunch up the paper backing and push down on the tape to smooth.

[@hazzardlobotomy7904]

Dan T gloves

[@marksoberay2318]

U use a tape squeegee

[@ParniyanKarimi]

awesome!

[@joshuagallup1883]

Wow impressive

[@esdaddy1030]

What is the brand of that insulated sleeve to go over the 6" ridged?

[@Balticblue93]

Not the crap they were using. Buy a high quality insulation, if you are wrapping ridged metal ducting. Not that garbage they used.

[@milesaway3422]

What was the product used to “paint” on to the seals?

[@andrewcave2131]

Miles Away duct butter

[@gongshow20]

I need a 6month check up!

[@UnknownButlovesFood]

Johns Manville insulation, Microlite FSK

[@kelleybaldwin1009]

where I can buy insulation fabic for fireproof ??

[@Engineer9736]

Kelley Baldwin In Russia, Moscow, they have a great hardware market where they sell the stuff.

[@CoasterCrazyy]

5:05 He is right it does stick to metal in cold weather but not if its -15C or colder, even -10C it'll have a hard time. 7:50 This is an excellent time to use that duct tape he threw away, wrap the duct tape around it in a spiral. Also don't stand underneath it when you're doing it lmfao

[@hobohacker258]

Can you double insulate ducts? I'd think that middle foil layer might be an issue.

[@slavrenz88]

Law of diminishing returns. The labor and materials cost would greatly exceed the cost/energy savings from doing something like that

[@mbikerun5]

If you do the work yourself you'll save in the long run for sure. And your house will likely be more comfortable as well.

[@brianzuchelli2988]

The proper way to install duct wrap is to remove the fiberglass from the longitudinal lap.

[@tskipwadoo3447]

No staples in the insulation?

[@jacobmarley2417]

staples lol…

[@LordRedDragon]

use a rectangular duct and insulate it with Elastomeric Nitrile Rubbers

[@SPUTNIK6996]

Furnace in the middle of the basement is so rare

[@unidyn2]

Be sure the pipe is clean before sealing and taping.

[@theap.1833]

Thanks!

[@5353iceman]

This was a good video, BUT the foil tape they used for the insulation wrap will drie out in a couple of years and fail. A better tape is called Scrim and it is designed to work with the duct wrap. Clean off the ducts before tapping or the tape will not adhere properly. Also the use of a plastic squeegee or a plastic Bondo putty tool will work better. The plastic tool will save your fingers from getting cut on the aluminum foil tape and it will make sure the tape has good adhesion. Last thing, wear a dust mask when cutting and installing the fiberglass duct wrap. It's fiberglass. Have fun😊

[@MrMr123]

If metal is a good conductor of energy, why is it used between the air handler and the room? Doesn’t it lose 40-60% of its efficiency? Why not pvc?

[@RoyFabian]

Pvc can be used for air. Ive seen large pvc pipe used instead of metal round duct. But thats a usually special application since its an expensive installation. Sheet metal is easier to work with in a nutshell. And when properly sealed, wrapped or internally lined, its plenty efficient.

[@anthonyhill367]

@@RoyFabian you wouldn’t use PVC on a furnace. It is rated up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and then it melts so you’re releasing toxic chemicals into your home (most furnaces will get close to if not exceed 140°F at the supply Plenum). If anything you would use CPVC and the reason that is not used (like you said) is the cost.

[@keepthinking2666]

For the average homeowner watching this if you change your fan speed on a furnace system with an AC coil on top of it or on a heat pump that alters how the system can cool so you might end up freezing your coil or vice versa not getting enough cold air always talk to a professional first

[@mikelittle1797]

Two different speeds, changing heat fan speed doesn't effect cooling fan speed. Don't randomly change your fan speed though, as lowering it can cause other problems. The proper way to do it is to have combustion analysis done , measure total static pressure, temperature rise and actually measure the CFM.and make adjustments as necessary

[@theorangepersonman]

7:38 that little piece of fiberglass is hanging on for dear life

[@ralanham76]

It looks like he got it at 8:00

[@kalijasin]

Looks a lot cleaner too.

[@vanhalenman60]

the metal tape sucks it peels after a few years use either pookie or pookie tape and for insulation in a basement like this use the bubble wrap radiant insulation its way cleaner

[@weldercamaro]

i'm not seeing where bubble foil wrap is designed for that. any info on that?

[@carlbyronthompson]

I grew up with coal heat but I would fill the hopper which had an auger which brought the coal into the heat box but it was forced air. Just like today's furnaces but used coal instead of a heat strip or lp. Every morning before school I would shovel coal into the hopper. There was a hole in the heat box that let coal into the house. Lousy, I would wake up with a hitler every morning.

[@jakev1972]

Yes teach home owners to wrap ductwork please so I don’t have to do it

[@firstvett69]

Ha ha ha ha, That's Funny But would be a good Idea, its to late for me now I think I have Wrapped over a million miles of Duct Lolol. I Haven't done this in Many Years but It was one of the First jobs I had at 20 years old after getting out of the Military, I actually Loved that Job. After 2 1/2 Years and being an Installer with helpers it was a much better Job. But after Itching to death a Dr. Told me I better find a New Job because I was allergic to Fiberglass I was very Disappointed. I went into Heavy equipment, liked it even better more money and less physical work, LOLOL. Today all I have to Do Is look at a Piece of Duck Rap, Fiberglass Roll, or anything that has anything to do with Fiberglass and I will start Itching Ha ha ha. It was a Great Experience.

[@Engineer9736]

What an enormous pipework they use in the USA for heating. In my country (NL) they use about 14mm or so thin water pipes which run through the house and radiators for heating.

[@douglasanderson1276]

US uses a lot of hot water for heat also the nice thing with force air is filtered air and works well with AC

[@TheGhettoLobster]

This is because its a forced air system. The system you're referring to is a hydronic heating system. Completely different.

[@walterbrunswick]

Specifically, this is a low-velocity forced-air system. High-velocity systems use smaller-diameter pipes (2" dia + insul.).

[@gilianrampart8514]

Fallowing these instructions could compromise your furnace heat exchanger,high limit switch and any warrenty you may have.

[@hvac01453]

yes, how do you just willy nilly change the fan speed without measuring the air flow. I didn't see any balometer or even a magnehelic...Im sure he's a good plumber, he needs to stick to what he knows.

[@armandom.5299]

hvac01453 Willy nilly

[@anthonyhill367]

This comment reminds me of the Community episode where the HVAC students think they’re better than all of the plumbers. Such elitism. They’re nearly as bad as electricians. 😂⚡️

[@deseremere]

Those look like 8" rigid ducts to me. The cheapest way to insulate those - get some 8" flexible duct and pull it all the way on top of the rigid duct like you did with that sleeve. I did it in my house for 6" flexible which had a 20' run and was not blowing much. With rigid duct inside if flex it is like new system

[@thebear1994]

he needs to really slop it on

[@timothybyers8046]

Right, slopyono that crap on lol

[@dineshbhoibhoi583]

Sir I am air conditioner duct fitter you have vacancy tell me 15 years experience in Gulf

[@kaboom362]

Congratulations everybody! We just learned how to pick fly poop out of pepper

[@bradmitchell4936]

Sealed ducts are great but insulating ducts in a conditioned space like a basement is ridiculous this heat is not lost and helps to keep floors warm in winter

[@marco1173]

0:20 Did he really say "that cold heat"?

[@btownb4462]

He said coal heat. He explains it in 00:43.

[@JamesSmith-fb7xt]

Don't believe the prices quoted in this video. I called 3 local companies and they want $2500-3500 including a mandatory $600 duct cleaning. 1950 ft2 home.

[@dadlife8775]

Does anybody actually do this in a basement?

[@ohger1]

Yes. A lot of heat is lost down there. If it's an unused space, then insulate the ducts certainly.

[@virgilk3447]

Yeah...but what happens when you hav the ducts cleaned? Typically, they have to access the ducts to brush them out and loosen up the material buildup inside the ducts.

[@moedan1899]

Wrong tape in the duct. Use silver tape, red letter if only for seams

[@carlosbell9315]

Right

[@ChipWooder]

5 ft?

[@rebeccarice3266]

I think it ment they come 5ft wide.. ?? I didnt get it either.

[@antoniokristler6973]

the second his filter gets dirty its going to overheat lol

[@southcoastaikido3004]

wow rich still works

[@josugambee3701]

It vents outside, not into a chimney. How is that supposed to make sense again?

[@ptec3575]

It's a 90%+ efficiency unit, these type of furnace can vent directly out because it is not as hot and will start to condense. These 90%+ efficiency vented to a chimney will eat away the chimney if vented there because it condensate, besides it is against code.

[@josugambee3701]

I know that. What I am pointing out is that a pipe or duct designed to carry exhaust gasses from burnt fuel, and direct them outside, is by definition a chimney, no matter what material it's made of. It's not that I don't understand how the system works, it's just that I'm the kind of guy that is always nitpicking at small details like that. The thing that matters is that they say that the furnace doesn't vent through a chimney, but directly outside. If that's so, what do you call the pipe that connects the furnace to the vent on the roof? I don't mean to offend anyone, and I completely respect your opinion, and the video was very informative. I was simply inserting some (bad) humor.

[@RiouInsuiko]

That's not true. A chimney, in this context, is specifically a vertical pipe or channel that contains & carries combustion gasses over the roof line. High efficiency gas furnaces to not extend the exhaust up to the roof. In almost every case that I've seen the unit is vented through the side of the building just above grade (there are minimum height and separation requirements) and is done so with grated PVC 90's. Usually the exhaust on a small rise and the intake right where it comes through the structure with a 90 facing downwards. I have never seen a high efficiency gas unit with piping that goes out the side of the building and all of the way above the roof line.

[@cliffcarlo180]

I would have thought that a reputable installation company would have carried out all of that insulation of the duct pipes, during the initial installation.

[@5353iceman]

Sometimes the cost is more then poeple are willing too or have to spend. It seems foolish but it is how most poeple I have worked for think.

[@mcroley591]

The initial installation was a hundred years ago when it was a coal fired furnace.

[@peachferrari]

Overall good, but working with fiberglass without gloves and long sleeves? You guys are gonna be itchy for days. Also the word is ducTwork, not duckwork.

[@mikepilcher1922]

peachferrari you wouldn’t last a day in hvac

[@darylg.4270]

is it just me or does that kid look like some how Richards family line?