Spinning Metal - Round 1 - I LOST!

[@milesomalley5605]

I spin bells for musical instruments and the wrinkling is a common problem. It’s a result of a few things. 1. The metal that had already been worked is very hard and the stress and energy exerted on the softer section causes the edge to wrinkle. 2. On larger diameter blanks if you stiffen the edge by flexing it back and not spinning the material all the way out to the edge until the last pass this can often be avoided. Largely your issue is work hardening an can be solved with annealing and 2 spinning steps. Awesome video!!

[@666Tomato666]

commenting so it goes up

[@phillipgreenberg6027]

Commenting so it goes up (good idea 666Tomato666)

[@mikedrop4421]

Phillip Greenberg likewise

[@krabkit]

+

[@johnstrange6799]

Is this how cymbals are made?

[@Earthnewz]

i was a metal spinner for 17 years on a very large spin lathe.doing the same thing cept with 16 foot dia.so for the ripples.you just need a larger blank expect to cut off ripples. you should make sure part is laid down to the tooling prior to spinning the lg dia..also if you introduce a little heat on the other side of spin wheel it wiil help

[@monty3524368]

Also, I used to crease the edge of the blank to give it more rigidity, but I agree - pin the blank to the chuck as soon as you can with multiple strokes backward towards the tailstock end. This will reduce thining of the blank and gives less chance of rippling 👍

[@srp01983]

Used to work at a metal spinning company- 1. if you don’t have a known soft grade of aluminium then annealing halfway through the process is worthy trying (use soap to gauge the temp, mark it with the bar of soap, heat till the soap turns brown). 2. Also use tallow as a lubricant (obtainable in the U.K. from plumbers and electricians merchants). 3. Most of the aluminium we spun was done with plain ordinary spinning tools - often shop made - think of the shape of the back of a teaspoon, but highly polished. And your tool is restricted by using the toolpost as a fixed pivot - use the tool freehand against a pin so it’s not restricted to a fixed radius. 4. Start with a thicker blank - the aim is to stretch the metal and make it flow into shape. You won’t end up with a 16 gauge lampshade with a 16 gauge blank. There will be surplus at the end, which you cut off with a tool like a woodturners skew chisel. But as a first attempt what you achieved is bloody good.

[@blueberry1c2]

Gauss says you cant get an overall positive curvature from a flat sheet I guess he never heard of a blowtorch

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

I've only seen this done before in one smooth continuous pass. Maybe you're taking so long that the metal is just getting wrinkled from old age.

[@brandonb9452]

AndTheCorrectAnswerIs 😂

[@chrisr3120]

No. As the metal gets thinner in the middle, some is pushed to the edge, thickening it. As the edge is thickened, it is only being thickened at the part closest to the portion being worked, leaving the outer edge unchanged. The thickening of the outer portion needs to be uniform, or you get this wavy pattern.

[@burtonfootballer5408]

Thats the difference between being shown by an expert as I was and trying to teach yourself an art that is actually quite dangerous should it go wrong. My 4 spinners were all on piece work and would have got about 75 pence for spinning one of these out of steel and about 40 pence for one out of aluminium back in the 1990's

[@АндрейЦыкунов-й1л]

As a child, I lived in the Soviet Union. I really wanted to have satellite TV to watch TV shows all over the world. Parabolic antennas were not sold. I decided to do it myself. Made a form of concrete in layers. Fail. But I became an engineer designer of electronic equipment.

[@UNcommonSenseAUS]

It's interesting to see the brainwashing they use in other countries...

[@brandonb9452]

UN-common Sense AUS how is that brainwashing? Wanker.

[@АндрейЦыкунов-й1л]

@@brandonb9452 what are you talking about, PATHETIC

[@brandonb9452]

Андрей Цыкунов I wasn’t talking about you or your comment. You misunderstand me.

[@brandonb9452]

I was replying to UN-common Sense AUS

[@TonyFleetwood]

this video did not meet my minimum requirement of %72 danger.

[@aserta]

If the disc slips, there's no hiding from it.

[@kalikasurf]

Keep in mind, that at 71 3/4% danger, youtube will demonize the video. He’s walking a tightrope of the best video ever created and complete financial ruin.....

[@DreadedOne509]

Solid KZbin legal advice here, heed at your own risk.

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

So, what you mean is he should mount everything in angle grinder, not in a lathe?

[@AtlasReburdened]

I was promised a jet pack. Screw this.

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

I Once milled a solid carbon steel Baseball bat, needless to say you could barely lift if never-mind swinging it, but hey it looked nice.

[@blueraspberrylemonade32]

Grammar makes this statement confusions but hey it looked nice

[@Oyez10]

Tony, I've done a fair bit of spinning. You need a lube or wax on the material to start with. Also the material will work harden on you. You need to anneal it before starting and then again if it gets hard on you. I make high voltage torroids for Tesla coils. It took lots of trial and error but eventually you'll get the hang of it. Good luck!

[@williamchamberlain2263]

Do you have any videos? - getting that shape sounds like an adventure

[@EnlightenedSavage]

definitely make some vids

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

What's the largest one you can make?

[@abilalpk]

As usual, very informative, to the point and fun to watch. Thanks for your great work Tony.

[@Xraller]

Oh! I've always wanted to try that. I think it's just work hardened. Try annealing half way through.

[@AustrianAnarchy]

Ditto.

[@4n2earth22]

Titto. Tritto? Ditto the ditto, at any rate. Al gits bitchy when you push it around. A little warmth goes a long way to easing the skrunch.

[@HeimoVN]

I second this notion

[@seannot-telling9806]

What everyone else said. Time to od a little annealing part way through. You might be able to do the heating without removing it from the lathe if your very careful.Just don't want to see you have to invite the people in the big red truck over for a BBQ. Been there done that in 2001. Garage door opener had issues and started a fire. The red truck showed up and put it out but not after a total loss of everything in the garage and a lot of damage to the house. But on the up side No Loss of life.

[@TheAmpair]

". . . Try annealing half way through." Blow that, the inside and outside both get bent and stressed. Go for broke, anneal it all the way through, several times. ;-)

[@SouthernEngineering]

Tony, your projects are creative, your humor always make me smile and your video productions are the best I've seen. I'm building my own channel and I know I have some great projects in the works also improving my videos but I will never have your humor or wit; that's sort of the trifecta of creativity, carry on....

[@maxximumb]

You spin me right round, Tony Right round like a record, Tony

[@Cynyr]

the comments do not disappoint. I was expecting it from Tony.

[@tombildhauer3229]

Maxx B I

[@jimsavina1941]

He's just putting his usual spin on things.

[@jimsavina1941]

Wow! Sittin here drinking my morning coffee checking out things on my phone when I see I received a heart from the mighty Tone.

[@jairamjogie1587]

Use a square piece of sheet.

[@ApprenticeGM]

Even your glue patterns @0:40 are awesome! I concur with the others that suggested you use "Spin me right round baby" music (unless it's a copyright infringement issue?). I had no idea you could cut metal that way using the mouse - you open whole new worlds for me Tony! Thanks for makin'.

[@Harlequin314159]

Start of the video: He's testing the waters about transitioning into a wooden bowl lathe spinning channel...

[@TabletopMachineShop]

This Bowled Tony?

[@denny9931]

I also thought the warning was about woodworking.

[@jthewelshwarlord6331]

This Oak Tony?

[@JacquardLoom]

That would be a really bowled move.

[@tibfulv]

He should be careful. Wood can actually damage a metal lathe. It's the sand inclusions in the wood.

[@flatbrokefrank6482]

I watched an engineer spinning metal some years ago now I seem to remember the setup was a tool post with two upright pegs in it and the tool was a ball on the end of a 5 foot piece of wood which was held firmly under the arm - ATB

[@Beardychiel]

That is the traditional setup and the tools came with multiple shaping profiles. All had mirror finishes and required to be polished regularly

[@AlecSteele]

I am very excited to see this video!! Edit: awesome video! Can't wait to see the solution to the wrinkling!

[@nixie2462]

We all are!

[@evaderknives]

What are you doing in these parts of the woods, hahaha What up Alec???

[@Kalledussin]

Hey you're the knife lad!

[@Joeameturexpert]

more whacking less yacking?

[@TheRealWeirdoC]

I'm always happy when I see that some of my favorite KZbinrs watch each other. :)

[@ShiryouOni]

I don't have a good explanation but I thought we were gonna see some giant metal beyblades. Great video anyways!

[@maniacgamer8295]

That is exactly what I thought

[@NewZeroland]

Holy cow that mouse click cut was a great idea XD

[@hailstevemcqueen]

THAT'S NOT A MOUSE, YOU PHILISTINE

[@AttilaAsztalos]

That's why I'm so surprised - I mean a laser-based mouse cutting that sheet would be easy to understand, but how on Earth did that trackball do it?!? Must be magic... ;)

[@glenralph5123]

I know right. Some may dribble on that it's "not a mouse" but we get what you're saying. TOT never disappoints. He's dug himself a hole, though... he has to keep topping the last cut in each vid, now.

[@edwardtaylor4785]

Another great video!! Like most of the respondents here, I've not done any metal spinning. I have, however, done a lot of metal forming and spinning is just another method of forming. What you are trying to do is just a special case of tipping or flanging and, I believe, what you are seeing is largely due to trying to force more metal than will easily fit into the space available. This is amplified by the cold working the metal is experiencing and the likelihood that, as many have suggested, it's not annealed to start with. It's one of the risks of working with "unknownium" from the scrap yard. In order to not wrinkle, the metal needs to be soft enough that the easiest place for the extra metal to go is "into itself" rather than making a wrinkle. Once it starts to double over on itself you're unlikely to recover. In order for it to do this, it helps a lot if it's dead soft which is an unusual condition to find in found materials. I personally like fully annealed 1100 aluminum for forming and regularly get 150% elongation w/o tearing. On the same part, I can also "use up" (shrink) considerable amounts of material on the flanged edge without having to re-anneal (usually) and, as one would expect, the metal gets noticeably thicker where the surplus is absorbed. The annealing temp for most aluminum is 800F and I use the O/A soot burn off as many have suggested. Black sharpie markers work too in place of the soot. I have seen a few spinning lathes and they tend to be much more massive than regular turning lathes which must be for a reason. Apparently they are as rare as hens teeth and sell for big bucks when they do show up. Anyhow, thanks for all you videos and I'm sure you'll figure this problem out eventually. I'm looking forward to it.

[@6061]

Try out some 3003 series aluminum. It's soft and very malleable. I bet you won't need to anneal it like so many people are suggesting.

[@geraldstephens8791]

If you are in California, go to Moon equipment, they make the disc's for hot rod trims. Or the episode of full custom garage where Ian roussou has some custom Moon eye disc's made for his custom car. Either way I'd say you cannot go as deep as you are trying, maybe only a couple inches. Also the moon disc's don't have a center hole so there's that...

[@deepnhock]

Basic aluminum deal... Take your oxy acelelyne torch. Set it to sooty. Cover your aluminum with soot. Re-set your torch hotter. Burn the soot off the aluminum. That will soften the aluminum and you can form it without splitting.

[@michaelg_839]

deepnhock, not forgetting water quenching.

[@stevenkelby2169]

@@michaelg_839 That hardens it, not softens it.

[@michaelg_839]

@@stevenkelby2169 makeitfrommetal.com/how-to-anneal-aluminum-the-beginners-guide/

[@VeradonaRestoration]

Thank you for the great video!

[@sethbracken]

4:13 - watch out zildjian, TOT is in the cymbals game now.

[@jonaslind9505]

Seth Bracken Either that or he’s starting a DIY brass band series.

[@edhog]

Hey mate. Tried that years again myself on a wood lathe. I found best tool to engage the stock was a roller blade wheel on the bearing. Have a shot next time with one of those.

[@SwitchAndLever]

This stuff, speaking from my own experience, is finnicky as hell to get done properly. I find a lot comes down to material. Copper does indeed work harden easily, brass has similar issues, I haven't done any trials with aluminium but your issues definitely does look similar to the issues I've had on smaller trials in copper. I do wonder what would happen if you stop halfway through and anneal it and then continue, and maybe again if you notice it starting to feel wobbly. Love the tool, is that just a rounded off bearing? I've just used solid tools, with plenty of lubrication.

[@FlexDRG]

Switch & Lever looks like a bearing from a self aligning flange bearing unit.

[@grahamsurrall7315]

Swit

[@666Tomato666]

especially if you have a dowel to locate center, I really don't see why taking it off and re-annealing wouldn't work

[@chrisedwards3866]

What causes the waves at the edges of the larger attempts? It looks like the result of attempts to squeeze the material down to a smaller diameter. But of course that's not the case, as he obviously knows that would be impossible and he never tries it. So what does cause that deformation? I'd love to experiment with it, but I don't have the tools or space.

[@Cynyr]

well i can say that at work we'll spin aluminium up into the 60" diameter range, and ~18" draws. Yes, material selection is important and so is operator skill. I've not been all that involved in the specifics, but we did change a material a while back (10+ years) and had issues. We've also occasionally had issues with our supplier not providing exactly spec material which also causes problems.

[@rendtech]

We have the same issues in ceramics. I think you need to slow the lathe right down. The faster you go the more force you have on the edge to flatten. The two pressures one being your force and the other force due to the rotation with produce those crincles.

[@RobB_VK6ES]

Ran out of material? BS You should have Copied and Pasted :)

[@tommasofossati5123]

And the cake joke was hilarious! How do you think about all these funny gags? They are the soul of this Channel

[@drubradley8821]

once you get half way through forming... you can fold over the outer most 1/8 to 1/4 inch in the direction you are going, (towards the head), the closer you get the outer 1/4 inch diameter bend to a 90 degree, the better off you will be, on the rippled effect... you can try a bit of that, right before you try to lay the little bend down to the form, (buck) cut it off, with what ever lathe tool you see fit, slow RPM's... That s what works for me, on either brass, aluminum, copper... I have not played with steel sheets yet, no need, I suppose is why.. Oh, and even though, you are using what appears to be a roller type bearing, you still need oil, something to stave off any work hardening heat that would otherwise form with out running oil or isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle.. Some will question the volatility of that, as one should, but it does keep it cool... you can start out fast, but as you work towards the outer, baby step, young grass hopper... slow as it goes... As you have already figured, the out diameter, is allot to shrink... the further out you are from the center, the tighter you have to keep your tooling to the buck and to force the alloy to shrink into itself, yes, the wobble make you desire to correct it, but the 90 degree bend you place into it, helps with that further along... good luck, and be safe.. those can come off like ninja stars, thrown by Babe Ruth...

[@planbuildrepeat8264]

Thanks.

[@VeradonaRestoration]

Great, I would like to know this too! Thank you

[@Hipgluthabidydabidy]

If you get some normal soap bars and rub them onto the blanks, you can get your propane torch and heat them until the soap turns black, then let it cool down in the air. This will anneal the blanks and make them much softer, you can also repeat it as many times as you like. :)

[@4n2earth22]

Yup! Whut he saied.

[@getsmartr]

Hipgluthabidydabidy this works with acetylene smoke as well. Put the smoke on the aluminum and heat it just until the soot burns away then cool slowly

[@JustQzen]

I'm glad to see that you remembered to remove all 5 corners of the square piece of wood in the beginning of the video. I was once making a wooden wheel and forgot to do that... I scrapped that project as it wasn't a very pleasant ride in my car.

[@Joe30pack]

I have officially given up on trying to figure out your editing techniques. I'm just going to watch and enjoy your videos from now on.

[@aherrera63]

I have done these before creating some 12" aluminum balls for a large tesla coil, but you need to anneal the material by heating it up before starting (don't quench it), if you feel the material is getting harder as you work it, anneal it again. I used a propane torch and heat it up carefully. Also, if you use just a tool rest with some pins, you may have a better feedback of how hard the metal is becoming. I did my half balls starting at the center and going all the way to the outside every time, when the shape was close, I use the tool against the form to refine the shape. Always use a blank a little larger than needed and with a piece of HSS ground like a regular lathe cutting tool attached to a bar, you cut the edge and make it perfect.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Try some 2024. I think they will still work for the Anti Facebook mind intrusion hats we were talking about.

[@pjhalchemy]

ROFL + 1 abnormally aspirated espresso. Good one Randy! Agreed on the 2024, perhaps 50 thou...then have it gold anodized for extraneous emf.

[@bloodyricho1]

Gold anodising dye is ferric ammonium oxalate. It's made out of iron and will affect the blocking affect of the aluminium. Black anodising is done with stanous sulphate which is made from tin, which would make a real tin foil hat which can block even the lizard people from reading your mind.

[@gregwarner3753]

I pity any lizard person that reads my mind. I saw a metal spinner spin a flange on the od to keep it from flopping around and wrinkilg.

[@datadavis]

I just paint the inside of all my hats and caps with lead oxide paint for +100 stealth

[@mickcarson8504]

These days you use a special ball bearing to bend the plate. In my days I used a polished hard steel tip bar to bend the sheet disc into bowls, cowls, etc.

[@skuker]

The best cut gag yet

[@crystalsoulslayer]

He should learn to use keyboard shortcuts, though. It's way faster.

[@skuker]

Command Line or bust!

[@thedillestpickle]

Maybe use a blank that is a lot larger than the finished project is meant to be. You saw the wrinkling on the smaller bowl at the edge, and then on the larger bowl at the edge. If you had a very large blank the edge would be so far away that it wouldn't have that tendency to wrinkle. Just a guess.

[@anderskjelgaard907]

If you are using aluminium, you ned to know that it work hardens on it self over a period of 6 weeks. The trick to spinning aluminium is to use fresh rolled material. And dont bother with center dowel, just use a flat piece on your tailstock to support the work piece. That way you will be be able to draw all of the material from the center and outwards.

[@FieryWACO]

I was wondering if periodic annealing during the op would help.

[@davidcoghill8612]

It depends massively on the grade. Some will age harden at room temperature quite quickly. Others will barely age harden at all even at higher temperatures.

[@jakobn4191]

i thought brass or copper would be better to start out with

[@anderskjelgaard907]

Tsf Phi go byu a brain

[@stefantrethan]

There is a way to reverse that, involves heating. It's usually mentioned in regards to stress cracks when bending it, but it should apply here.

[@maxpuigpowell8630]

The lamp shading is something that happens in ceramics wheel throwing just like this. It's when you try to make the outside ends come in too fast as they fight centrifugal force

[@theflava]

Act I: Woodworking for metalworkers with metalworking tools. I love it!

[@jeffcanyafixiy]

On the bright side, great band saw cuts. 👍👍 As they say, "if it was easy,,,, everyone would do it". Love your videos!!

[@TomChame]

Anneal, spin, anneal, spin, anneal and spin. Is your forming tool a roller bearing?

[@infinitenoodle7531]

Tom Q yes

[@taurusdragon5479]

Waaaaaay more than enough comments on annealing, etc etc etc. I just wanna say... great job on cutting the wooden disks on the bandsaw! Anyone who's ever tried it knows that you have to forget trying to follow the marked line and instead concentrate on "rotating" your workpiece as if it were pinned in its centre to a pivot point. Props to you my friend! (Michael in Canada).

[@Vrazl]

I am a spinner ( apprentice ), but still technically a spinner. so we specialise in doing what you attempted to do int the video so i can possibly give you some tips. First things first, the thing you called "lamp shading" could be happening one, recourse you are pushing the metal too much at one time so it ends up work hardening ( i have never spun aluminum but we spin brass and that work hardens ) so you might need to anneal it maybe, again, i haven't spun aluminum so I'm not sure. And two, we use a thing called a "back stick" to support the material from behind to sort of stop it from buckling but we do do it by hand, so instead of using an engineering lathe and putting a tool on that we hold the tool in our hands and leverage it against a tool rest so it's easy to use the other hand to hold the back stick. Another thing we do is use things called drafts, which are basically just some shapes bigger than the one you end up with, so you end up spinning it step by step and make it smaller with each step until you get close to the final shape and then go onto it. The way you attempted to do it is very different to the way we do it but this might help.

[@windowwiz100]

Varis Prieditis I'm really glad there are still apprentice spinners. I apprentices at my dads shop and then a friends for 4 years. I don't spin anymore but it makes me glad people still do

[@savarast]

I love the editing and humour in your videos

[@Thee_Sinner]

I sure won't be inviting you to join This Old Bowling Team after seeing this...

[@mikedrop4421]

Uriah Siner it took me a second to realize the genius I was beholding.

[@Audio_Simon]

Stop everything! I don't remember writing a cheque for bowling!

[@Grengore10]

I don’t know if someone else mentioned it, but in manufacturing when making a rounded blank similar to what you are attempting we coat the top of the metal with plastic, something as simple as a torn up clear garbage bag helps. It prevents the metal tearing/wrinkling up on the ends. Maybe use some spray adhesive to hold a torn bag on?

[@ProjectWolfDragon]

TOT's playing with decaying tree carcasses.... SICK!!!

[@paulcopeland9035]

He has done it a time or two before. Go back a year or two and watch him "carpenter"!

[@marnogagiano2379]

@ThisOldTony, off topic - measuring instruments... How about a poop shoot showing off all of your favourite (and maybe not so favourite) measuring instruments?

[@uelssom]

Nice one Tony! Ive always wanted to see your bowl movements

[@kalikasurf]

uelssom definite contender for top 10 comments!!! Well done sir

[@rdrnd928]

Hey tot! The buckling problem is from getting the metal too thin. If you lay metal down to the buck on the forward stroke (towards the headstock) you will stretch it- making it thinner as you go. However, if you lay it to the buck using a backstroke (toward the tailstock) it won't stretch. You still have to form it (getting a working angle) using a forward stroke of course, BUT DON'T LAY IT TO THE BUCK until the backstroke. Best grade of Al for spinning is 1100-O in my limited experience I've never had to anneal it-making small under 8" projects. Lube with 50/50 mix of beeswax and mineral oil. Thanks for the vid!!

[@mauriziofigini]

for a minute I thought you were Mathias Wandel

[@hadinossanosam4459]

Or Frank Howarth...

[@mauriziofigini]

too close to call, pinewood + bandsaw spells more wandels than howarths to me though

[@seanp1602]

Well. Wait for the “I build it” rage post to confirm then. 👀

[@mauriziofigini]

in this case I would expect the video to start with some vigorous snow shoveling outdoors

[@vandyFixer]

maurizio figini with more than a hint of Diresta

[@Beardychiel]

Having taught spinning years ago the most common cause of your problem is work hardening so anneal regularly to relieve the stress that builds up. We used to have students make tea caddy models so your project should be possible. Good luck.

[@pmcKANE]

You've got dead tree carcass on your lathe! Sick!

[@keithlane4343]

A friend of mine used to spin dishes for the Patriot missle system, and he had what looked like a crayon that he would mark the stock in several spots, then anneal it from the bottom with a rose bud torch till the crayon marks turned a specific color, and that would tell him when it was ready to spin. Pretty cool process.

[@ergohack]

Thanks for sharing. Useful pieces of info like this are half the reason I read the comments section.

[@trisrush9155]

Thicker material, annealed first, soap to lubricate, non rotating tool - a bit like a very polished smooth heel bar, on a long lever. Flat bar in the toolpost, with pins to lever the bar against, carriage locked. Hth!

[@jeffm470]

can you explain your tooling more, I'd like to try the setup you describe

[@SeanGreezy]

Tony, you are definitely work hardening the metal, Annealing is the way to go for sure. All you need is a propane torch, and a sharpie to anneal (torch for heating, sharpie for heat control) 4:13, (and the 2-3 seconds there after) is about where you can see the work hardening at play, It should never fight you that hard. Once you get the metal formed to that point, draw on the metal with a sharpie, and torch it until the sharpie marks disappear. Let it cool till you can touch it, and start again. Theres a video on a Trombone repair thats been fairly popular lately that uses this technique.

[@Pro_Vs_Con]

That mouse my step-dad used 18 years ago playing mechaworrior made me feel so unnoticeably happy. Believe me.. Nostalgic at that.. 😊

[@shroom903]

I found your channel through the one and only AVE. The two of you are hilarious with a technical data point and skillset that most don't have. I'm sure you have seen mooneyes USA make wheel covers out of flat disc. Over decades I'm sure they have learned how to make a "bowl" out of aluminum without fully machining out of a billit

[@aserta]

The thing i see wrong here (with limited experience) is that you don't commit to the action, you have to carry out the "wave" all from point A to point B without flapping about, and maybe that you shouldn't use a metal forming tool. Just my two cents here.

[@fxm5715]

The way I was taught back in the 80s by a guy who produced tens of thousands of lighting fixtures, was to first tweak a small, raised rim at the edge to keep the piece stable, then, as you say, commit to the motion. The material will still work harden, of course, but it hardens a lot less if the forming is done in a few bold moves, as opposed to lots of timid ones.

[@joshtiel2980]

FXM I am logging this wisdom for future use. 👍👍

[@bwfixit]

yes! *Disclaimer: I have never even tried spinning, I am just a guy with the Dilbert "Knack" which is "a natural intuition of all things mechanical and electrical, and utter social ineptitude" and currently a junior in mechanical engineering* I think that the metal has to only stretch not shrink. Your motions are wanting the metal to shrink inwards more than stretch backwards. For all of the forming in the middle of the disk, the outer edge is preventing the material from folding and forcing the inner material to stretch away from those outer few inches in order to form the shape. but when you try to form that outer edge there isn't any more material to hold that edge and resist folding. This is compounded by the result of doing your motions this way, that remaining unformed outside edge has to shrink inwards more that stretch backwards because by waiting to form it at the end the inner material has stretched disproportionally more than the outside would have if it was possible to complete the part that way. forming a rim like FXM said adds structure that resists folding to the very edge making it less likely to fold like that.

[@JackFlashTech]

This made me feel a lot better about how long it took me to get a good part when I was self-teaching metal spinning.

[@archangel20031]

Before 6 minutes, I'm betting that it looks like work hardening, so perhaps you should work it 1/2 way, anneal it, then finish?

[@TEFox]

If you can track down some 5052 alloy sheet, have a go with it. An aviation materials stockist would have it in anything down to 0.020". It's considered a "soft" alloy and is very workable. Often used for fuel tanks as it can be formed well without work hardening too much. Heck if that fails, 1000-series will form to nearly anything you can imagine, but getting anything thinner than about 0.040" might be a stretch (ha, stretch, geddit?).

[@barharborbasher249]

Great way to end the weekend 🍺

[@marknahabedian1803]

My first thought was work hardening. My local metal scrap yard (in Cambridge NA) charges $3/pound for copper roof flashing. That might be both too thin and too narrow for what you're doing though. I'm looking forward to your next attempt. Maybe try annealing it first and again as the bowl takes shape. Is this how they shape cymbals?

[@ThoenWorks]

Didn't Xena wear a pair of these?

[@jamesg1367]

Hers were larger.

[@thermmaloverload]

Madonna did too

[@mattmoore1311]

Madonna stole hers from the tin man's head though.

[@themadmailler]

Awesome! I'm thinking that it's work hardening right at the end. heat with a torch before finishing might help you out.

[@vanderhoof5701]

A: I think you need to anneal your aluminum first. Smoke it with acetylene then get the torch just hot enough to burn it off. B: I'd guess your metal lathe doesn't spin fast enough. Hook up a jet engine and spin that sucker at 100,000 rpm. If A: doesn't do the trick, try B:, or C: lol

[@JustinC905]

Man, I was puckering the whole time. That looks pretty damn dangerous. But, maybe, get some bronze, a wider diameter, and start making drum cymbals! Neat idea with the mandrel(?), but definitely scary. Be safe, man.

[@oldmaninthecave]

At least you ended up with a half-completed fairly nice wood bowl. (not food safe I imagine -- use for wax fruit only)

[@stevenkelby2169]

Aluminium is food safe again these days. That whole "aluminium causes alzheimer's" was a flawed study, now debunked.

[@oldmaninthecave]

@@stevenkelby2169 I said "nice WOOD bowl"; I was talking about the wood buck.

[@thecogwheel]

You just wanted to show off your gap bed lathe. And whats up with the dead tree carcasses?

[@arthurdent5536]

2:04 * music starts playing * Hello there everyone welcome back to... wait.... no...

[@Fredrikaolsen]

Arthur Dent thought the same

[@TomNickolson]

Very interesting! I would like to spin copper for pieces for a wind sculpture. What RPM did you use?

[@PiperFishing]

Much better than Aves attempt, nice going.

[@666Tomato666]

did AvE use even a roller in his attempts?

[@Joeameturexpert]

he was also making something that resembled a shot glass as opposed to a salad bowl. tighter turning without a rotating tool..

[@texasdeeslinglead2401]

bdpa kaknox it seemed like I remembered AVE doing this.

[@Shab-z]

And he was using copper

[@Sinnistral]

Yep, he was making a copper cup for a Moscow Mule, which ended up being more of a Russian Donkey... 😆

[@JoelsVideoJunk]

Tony I watched part 2 and Think i see where you're having trouble. If you notice a few video's of factories that are making spun aluminum tanks they have multiple positions where they fulcrum the tool. I think angle on the work is key here. If you have a tighter angle on the work you run the risk of applying too much downward force at once cause the work to harden and to press backwards onto the center. Try moving your fulcrum out from your work and mess with the angle your are pressing? Great vid!

[@dsandoval9396]

I thought you were going to play the "You spin me right 'round baby, right 'round..." song. Missed opportunities.

[@jeremytravis360]

I tried this when I was doing my 5 year apprenticeship in sheet metal. I was taken to the Boosey & Hawkes factory whey they make brass instruments. Did you try Annealing the sheet metal before you spun it ?

[@Dominic.Minischetti]

I used to know a metal spinner, he was amazing!

[@humblehombre9904]

Tony, I wonder if slowing it a bit as the flange gets bigger (centrifugal force?) As it thins and enlarges, it maybe gets faster and distorts due to thinness. Also try a rubber inline skate wheel for the tool perhaps? Maybe a very hard rubber. Nice work. I have always wanted to try this.

[@FieryWACO]

Thumbs up. I don't even wait to watch first.

[@A_Casual_NPC]

I've got en extension that does that for me, even better xD

[@vandyFixer]

Is it wrong to squeal like a little girl when you see a ToT notification? 🤔 just asking for a friend...

[@FieryWACO]

No, no it is not.

[@vandyFixer]

Waco Glenn what a relief. 😀 ... for my friend...a huge relief.

[@TabletopMachineShop]

Thumbs up to this comment. I didn't even read the second half.

[@shannonharris2816]

Amazing! I always wondered how metal was 'spun'. I have handled aluminium nose-cones for prop air craft - what a wonder.

[@scttdllr]

1100-0, or 3003 would have worked great. Roller is too square, needs a better radius on it. Soap or Tool-Saver for spinning lubricant. Depending on grade of Aluminum torch heat may work. Get yourself some TempStiks heat to about 200°. 27 years of experience........

[@Ironnate87]

I was going to say the same about 1100 or 3003. Also for annealing, I scribble non-overlapping lines with sharpie and burn it off with mapp gas.

[@freekinfreak1]

With aluminum, we spin at 600 deg. Then again, our product is 2.5" thk and 19 ft. in dia.

[@scottwillis5434]

@@freekinfreak1 ...and how close to the workpiece do you stand?

[@freekinfreak1]

@@scottwillis5434 we check with temp sticks on the ends of broom handles, bout 6 feet away. The spinner is in an enclosed chair above the hydraulic roller.18 rose buds blowing wide open, it gets hot!!!!

[@Greg-nq4dj]

@@freekinfreak1 sounds like cool s*** I grew up in a machine shop stuff like that it's pretty cool

[@2LateIWon]

wonder if you could anneal it maybe halfway through the process? Great try and you almost got it!!!

[@Donnerwamp]

Huh, a disclaimer? Hm, ok... WHAT?! 71% Danger?! I'm up for 70, but 71?!!! Nope, this shit is too real for me, I'm outta here!

[@kalikasurf]

T M S stick around man!!!! That fear is just weakness leaving the body!!!!

[@DerLaCroix1]

Have you tried setting up a torch to keep the plate hot while rolling? Forms smoother and prevents work hardening.

[@pjt1965]

Bending the edge of the sheet before spinning prevents folding and use a lot of wax against scratches and spin from outside to inside to minimise stretching Oh yes there is a lot to it but I’m sure you will succeed 👍 enjoy 😉

[@bobuk5722]

Hi Tot. Another technique for making these shapes that I have seen published (Gauge 1 Society Magazine, I think) is not to spin but to 'hammer' the material into shape over the former using an air needle gun. Now, that was on nice brass making a steam dome and nothing like as big as you need but I thought it worth mentioning. BobUK.

[@matthewtscott1]

When I was doing my apprenticeship, our lecturer brought in this old bloke, he smelt somewhat of garlic, probably on account of the string of garlic round his neck, which apparently was the fashion back in the day.... Anyhow I digress 😁 He was a copper smith, not like the sheeties you get doing your arcondition ducting nowadays. A proper old fashioned copper Smith. Anyway he spent about an hour beating and heating, then re-beating this peice of copper with a wooden mallet, on a wooden form, while leaning on his wooden leg, (ok I made that last part up,) until he came up with an old fashioned copper kettle. So I guess you're wondering what the point of the story is? Well it turns out that strings of garlic tied round your neck are actually very fashionable 😁

[@matthewtscott1]

Oh and maybe a little preforming with a wooden mallet, then a little heat before finishing on the lathe might help 😁

[@colinfurze]

amazing

[@ersu.t]

you getting fashion advice Colin? Garlic would be less dangerous then wearing a tie I suppose! Shouldn't you be off playing with fireworks :)

[@wavecreatures]

Brilliant and a slick bit of film making!

[@intjonmiller]

I have watched a LOT of How It's Made, so I can say with authority that you're not doing it right. 😂

[@samanthasoto21]

Same

[@mass4552]

I stopped the video before it got half way through. I had to let my brain process the knowledge of probably the most ingenious way to cut shapes out of metals. I have already become a better metalworker because of you. My brain is better now. Back to the video.

[@grassroots9304]

I hadn't watched one of your videos in a very long time. I forgot how much fun they are. You do amazing work...I think your failures are better than my successes, sadly.

[@rrrlalatimmy]

Awesome video Tony! Good luck with the next one!

[@bBrain]

I'm wondering what would have happened if you added a little heat to it as you went. Interesting project.

[@kenwalter867]

Did this fun stuff in high school. We used a wood stick and soap as a lubricant. Not sure what grade aluminum we used, but we made hanging flower pots. I think you should get a solid billet mold and experiment with explosive machining. That would up the danger percentage!

[@weldit1251]

I really enjoy your content bro!.... keep up the good work!

[@christopherbrougham]

Thank you for so much work and a great video, that sped up when needed. I have to say, you have a calling for lampshades for your disasters. They look great! Cheers from NZ...