Spinning Metal - Round 1 - I LOST!

Metal Spinning -- taste the danger!
First attempt, mixed results. You might have questions I don't have answers to... I'll get into details in the next vid.
Just don't hold your breath, k?
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Music: "Operatic 3" - Vibe Mountain

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

I've only seen this done before in one smooth continuous pass. Maybe you're taking so long that the metal is just getting wrinkled from old age.

[@brandonb9452]

AndTheCorrectAnswerIs 😂

[@chrisr3120]

No. As the metal gets thinner in the middle, some is pushed to the edge, thickening it. As the edge is thickened, it is only being thickened at the part closest to the portion being worked, leaving the outer edge unchanged. The thickening of the outer portion needs to be uniform, or you get this wavy pattern.

[@burtonfootballer5408]

Thats the difference between being shown by an expert as I was and trying to teach yourself an art that is actually quite dangerous should it go wrong. My 4 spinners were all on piece work and would have got about 75 pence for spinning one of these out of steel and about 40 pence for one out of aluminium back in the 1990's

[@blueberry1c2]

Gauss says you cant get an overall positive curvature from a flat sheet I guess he never heard of a blowtorch

[@milesomalley5605]

I spin bells for musical instruments and the wrinkling is a common problem. It’s a result of a few things. 1. The metal that had already been worked is very hard and the stress and energy exerted on the softer section causes the edge to wrinkle. 2. On larger diameter blanks if you stiffen the edge by flexing it back and not spinning the material all the way out to the edge until the last pass this can often be avoided. Largely your issue is work hardening an can be solved with annealing and 2 spinning steps. Awesome video!!

[@666Tomato666]

commenting so it goes up

[@phillipgreenberg6027]

Commenting so it goes up (good idea 666Tomato666)

[@mikedrop4421]

Phillip Greenberg likewise

[@krabkit]

+

[@johnstrange6799]

Is this how cymbals are made?

[@Oyez10]

Tony, I've done a fair bit of spinning. You need a lube or wax on the material to start with. Also the material will work harden on you. You need to anneal it before starting and then again if it gets hard on you. I make high voltage torroids for Tesla coils. It took lots of trial and error but eventually you'll get the hang of it. Good luck!

[@williamchamberlain2263]

Do you have any videos? - getting that shape sounds like an adventure

[@EnlightenedSavage]

definitely make some vids

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

What's the largest one you can make?

[@Earthnewz]

i was a metal spinner for 17 years on a very large spin lathe.doing the same thing cept with 16 foot dia.so for the ripples.you just need a larger blank expect to cut off ripples. you should make sure part is laid down to the tooling prior to spinning the lg dia..also if you introduce a little heat on the other side of spin wheel it wiil help

[@monty3524368]

Also, I used to crease the edge of the blank to give it more rigidity, but I agree - pin the blank to the chuck as soon as you can with multiple strokes backward towards the tailstock end. This will reduce thining of the blank and gives less chance of rippling 👍

[@RobB_VK6ES]

Ran out of material? BS You should have Copied and Pasted :)

[@ShiryouOni]

I don't have a good explanation but I thought we were gonna see some giant metal beyblades. Great video anyways!

[@maniacgamer8295]

That is exactly what I thought

[@Harlequin314159]

Start of the video: He's testing the waters about transitioning into a wooden bowl lathe spinning channel...

[@TabletopMachineShop]

This Bowled Tony?

[@denny9931]

I also thought the warning was about woodworking.

[@jthewelshwarlord6331]

This Oak Tony?

[@JacquardLoom]

That would be a really bowled move.

[@tibfulv]

He should be careful. Wood can actually damage a metal lathe. It's the sand inclusions in the wood.

[@АндрейЦыкунов-й1л]

As a child, I lived in the Soviet Union. I really wanted to have satellite TV to watch TV shows all over the world. Parabolic antennas were not sold. I decided to do it myself. Made a form of concrete in layers. Fail. But I became an engineer designer of electronic equipment.

[@UNcommonSenseAUS]

It's interesting to see the brainwashing they use in other countries...

[@brandonb9452]

UN-common Sense AUS how is that brainwashing? Wanker.

[@АндрейЦыкунов-й1л]

@@brandonb9452 what are you talking about, PATHETIC

[@brandonb9452]

Андрей Цыкунов I wasn’t talking about you or your comment. You misunderstand me.

[@brandonb9452]

I was replying to UN-common Sense AUS

[@TonyFleetwood]

this video did not meet my minimum requirement of %72 danger.

[@aserta]

If the disc slips, there's no hiding from it.

[@kalikasurf]

Keep in mind, that at 71 3/4% danger, youtube will demonize the video. He’s walking a tightrope of the best video ever created and complete financial ruin.....

[@DreadedOne509]

Solid KZbin legal advice here, heed at your own risk.

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

So, what you mean is he should mount everything in angle grinder, not in a lathe?

[@AtlasReburdened]

I was promised a jet pack. Screw this.

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

I Once milled a solid carbon steel Baseball bat, needless to say you could barely lift if never-mind swinging it, but hey it looked nice.

[@blueraspberrylemonade32]

Grammar makes this statement confusions but hey it looked nice

[@Xraller]

Oh! I've always wanted to try that. I think it's just work hardened. Try annealing half way through.

[@AustrianAnarchy]

Ditto.

[@4n2earth22]

Titto. Tritto? Ditto the ditto, at any rate. Al gits bitchy when you push it around. A little warmth goes a long way to easing the skrunch.

[@HeimoVN]

I second this notion

[@seannot-telling9806]

What everyone else said. Time to od a little annealing part way through. You might be able to do the heating without removing it from the lathe if your very careful.Just don't want to see you have to invite the people in the big red truck over for a BBQ. Been there done that in 2001. Garage door opener had issues and started a fire. The red truck showed up and put it out but not after a total loss of everything in the garage and a lot of damage to the house. But on the up side No Loss of life.

[@TheAmpair]

". . . Try annealing half way through." Blow that, the inside and outside both get bent and stressed. Go for broke, anneal it all the way through, several times. ;-)

[@twatbass]

holy bandsaw skills, i cant even cut circles that round and close to my line with a circle jig.

[@noahhastings6145]

Neither can ToT, but his CNC can

[@abilalpk]

As usual, very informative, to the point and fun to watch. Thanks for your great work Tony.

[@Hipgluthabidydabidy]

If you get some normal soap bars and rub them onto the blanks, you can get your propane torch and heat them until the soap turns black, then let it cool down in the air. This will anneal the blanks and make them much softer, you can also repeat it as many times as you like. :)

[@4n2earth22]

Yup! Whut he saied.

[@getsmartr]

Hipgluthabidydabidy this works with acetylene smoke as well. Put the smoke on the aluminum and heat it just until the soot burns away then cool slowly

[@tommasofossati5123]

And the cake joke was hilarious! How do you think about all these funny gags? They are the soul of this Channel

[@srp01983]

Used to work at a metal spinning company- 1. if you don’t have a known soft grade of aluminium then annealing halfway through the process is worthy trying (use soap to gauge the temp, mark it with the bar of soap, heat till the soap turns brown). 2. Also use tallow as a lubricant (obtainable in the U.K. from plumbers and electricians merchants). 3. Most of the aluminium we spun was done with plain ordinary spinning tools - often shop made - think of the shape of the back of a teaspoon, but highly polished. And your tool is restricted by using the toolpost as a fixed pivot - use the tool freehand against a pin so it’s not restricted to a fixed radius. 4. Start with a thicker blank - the aim is to stretch the metal and make it flow into shape. You won’t end up with a 16 gauge lampshade with a 16 gauge blank. There will be surplus at the end, which you cut off with a tool like a woodturners skew chisel. But as a first attempt what you achieved is bloody good.

[@edwardtaylor4785]

Another great video!! Like most of the respondents here, I've not done any metal spinning. I have, however, done a lot of metal forming and spinning is just another method of forming. What you are trying to do is just a special case of tipping or flanging and, I believe, what you are seeing is largely due to trying to force more metal than will easily fit into the space available. This is amplified by the cold working the metal is experiencing and the likelihood that, as many have suggested, it's not annealed to start with. It's one of the risks of working with "unknownium" from the scrap yard. In order to not wrinkle, the metal needs to be soft enough that the easiest place for the extra metal to go is "into itself" rather than making a wrinkle. Once it starts to double over on itself you're unlikely to recover. In order for it to do this, it helps a lot if it's dead soft which is an unusual condition to find in found materials. I personally like fully annealed 1100 aluminum for forming and regularly get 150% elongation w/o tearing. On the same part, I can also "use up" (shrink) considerable amounts of material on the flanged edge without having to re-anneal (usually) and, as one would expect, the metal gets noticeably thicker where the surplus is absorbed. The annealing temp for most aluminum is 800F and I use the O/A soot burn off as many have suggested. Black sharpie markers work too in place of the soot. I have seen a few spinning lathes and they tend to be much more massive than regular turning lathes which must be for a reason. Apparently they are as rare as hens teeth and sell for big bucks when they do show up. Anyhow, thanks for all you videos and I'm sure you'll figure this problem out eventually. I'm looking forward to it.

[@maxximumb]

You spin me right round, Tony Right round like a record, Tony

[@Cynyr]

the comments do not disappoint. I was expecting it from Tony.

[@tombildhauer3229]

Maxx B I

[@jimsavina1941]

He's just putting his usual spin on things.

[@jimsavina1941]

Wow! Sittin here drinking my morning coffee checking out things on my phone when I see I received a heart from the mighty Tone.

[@jairamjogie1587]

Use a square piece of sheet.

[@rendtech]

We have the same issues in ceramics. I think you need to slow the lathe right down. The faster you go the more force you have on the edge to flatten. The two pressures one being your force and the other force due to the rotation with produce those crincles.

[@Vrazl]

I am a spinner ( apprentice ), but still technically a spinner. so we specialise in doing what you attempted to do int the video so i can possibly give you some tips. First things first, the thing you called "lamp shading" could be happening one, recourse you are pushing the metal too much at one time so it ends up work hardening ( i have never spun aluminum but we spin brass and that work hardens ) so you might need to anneal it maybe, again, i haven't spun aluminum so I'm not sure. And two, we use a thing called a "back stick" to support the material from behind to sort of stop it from buckling but we do do it by hand, so instead of using an engineering lathe and putting a tool on that we hold the tool in our hands and leverage it against a tool rest so it's easy to use the other hand to hold the back stick. Another thing we do is use things called drafts, which are basically just some shapes bigger than the one you end up with, so you end up spinning it step by step and make it smaller with each step until you get close to the final shape and then go onto it. The way you attempted to do it is very different to the way we do it but this might help.

[@windowwiz100]

Varis Prieditis I'm really glad there are still apprentice spinners. I apprentices at my dads shop and then a friends for 4 years. I don't spin anymore but it makes me glad people still do

[@JustQzen]

I'm glad to see that you remembered to remove all 5 corners of the square piece of wood in the beginning of the video. I was once making a wooden wheel and forgot to do that... I scrapped that project as it wasn't a very pleasant ride in my car.

[@NewZeroland]

Holy cow that mouse click cut was a great idea XD

[@hailstevemcqueen]

THAT'S NOT A MOUSE, YOU PHILISTINE

[@AttilaAsztalos]

That's why I'm so surprised - I mean a laser-based mouse cutting that sheet would be easy to understand, but how on Earth did that trackball do it?!? Must be magic... ;)

[@glenralph5123]

I know right. Some may dribble on that it's "not a mouse" but we get what you're saying. TOT never disappoints. He's dug himself a hole, though... he has to keep topping the last cut in each vid, now.

[@edhog]

Hey mate. Tried that years again myself on a wood lathe. I found best tool to engage the stock was a roller blade wheel on the bearing. Have a shot next time with one of those.

[@drubradley8821]

once you get half way through forming... you can fold over the outer most 1/8 to 1/4 inch in the direction you are going, (towards the head), the closer you get the outer 1/4 inch diameter bend to a 90 degree, the better off you will be, on the rippled effect... you can try a bit of that, right before you try to lay the little bend down to the form, (buck) cut it off, with what ever lathe tool you see fit, slow RPM's... That s what works for me, on either brass, aluminum, copper... I have not played with steel sheets yet, no need, I suppose is why.. Oh, and even though, you are using what appears to be a roller type bearing, you still need oil, something to stave off any work hardening heat that would otherwise form with out running oil or isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle.. Some will question the volatility of that, as one should, but it does keep it cool... you can start out fast, but as you work towards the outer, baby step, young grass hopper... slow as it goes... As you have already figured, the out diameter, is allot to shrink... the further out you are from the center, the tighter you have to keep your tooling to the buck and to force the alloy to shrink into itself, yes, the wobble make you desire to correct it, but the 90 degree bend you place into it, helps with that further along... good luck, and be safe.. those can come off like ninja stars, thrown by Babe Ruth...

[@planbuildrepeat8264]

Thanks.

[@CSGATI]

Love the tic toc time lapse. It's the way it's done pressure and passes don't rush it.

[@AlecSteele]

I am very excited to see this video!! Edit: awesome video! Can't wait to see the solution to the wrinkling!

[@nixie2462]

We all are!

[@evaderknives]

What are you doing in these parts of the woods, hahaha What up Alec???

[@Kalledussin]

Hey you're the knife lad!

[@Joeameturexpert]

more whacking less yacking?

[@TheRealWeirdoC]

I'm always happy when I see that some of my favorite KZbinrs watch each other. :)

[@taurusdragon5479]

Waaaaaay more than enough comments on annealing, etc etc etc. I just wanna say... great job on cutting the wooden disks on the bandsaw! Anyone who's ever tried it knows that you have to forget trying to follow the marked line and instead concentrate on "rotating" your workpiece as if it were pinned in its centre to a pivot point. Props to you my friend! (Michael in Canada).

[@SwitchAndLever]

This stuff, speaking from my own experience, is finnicky as hell to get done properly. I find a lot comes down to material. Copper does indeed work harden easily, brass has similar issues, I haven't done any trials with aluminium but your issues definitely does look similar to the issues I've had on smaller trials in copper. I do wonder what would happen if you stop halfway through and anneal it and then continue, and maybe again if you notice it starting to feel wobbly. Love the tool, is that just a rounded off bearing? I've just used solid tools, with plenty of lubrication.

[@FlexDRG]

Switch & Lever looks like a bearing from a self aligning flange bearing unit.

[@grahamsurrall7315]

Swit

[@666Tomato666]

especially if you have a dowel to locate center, I really don't see why taking it off and re-annealing wouldn't work

[@chrisedwards3866]

What causes the waves at the edges of the larger attempts? It looks like the result of attempts to squeeze the material down to a smaller diameter. But of course that's not the case, as he obviously knows that would be impossible and he never tries it. So what does cause that deformation? I'd love to experiment with it, but I don't have the tools or space.

[@Cynyr]

well i can say that at work we'll spin aluminium up into the 60" diameter range, and ~18" draws. Yes, material selection is important and so is operator skill. I've not been all that involved in the specifics, but we did change a material a while back (10+ years) and had issues. We've also occasionally had issues with our supplier not providing exactly spec material which also causes problems.

[@billbrown3261]

First off, you need to "Break the outside Edge". Start your first few passes travelling as far to the edge as possible to put more even friction/heat into the piece. The grain structure holds tight at the edges of the metal, failure to heat sufficiently causes the grains to "react" trying to hold together, thus the distortion and/or tearing. Your able to get it relatively even on the smaller disks, but for the larger ones you need to distribute the friction/heat more evenly. Try preheating with a torch, that should allow the edges to conform enough for you to get a smooth radius aswell. Happy Crafting!!!

[@6061]

Try out some 3003 series aluminum. It's soft and very malleable. I bet you won't need to anneal it like so many people are suggesting.

[@shroom903]

I found your channel through the one and only AVE. The two of you are hilarious with a technical data point and skillset that most don't have. I'm sure you have seen mooneyes USA make wheel covers out of flat disc. Over decades I'm sure they have learned how to make a "bowl" out of aluminum without fully machining out of a billit

[@sethbracken]

4:13 - watch out zildjian, TOT is in the cymbals game now.

[@jonaslind9505]

Seth Bracken Either that or he’s starting a DIY brass band series.

[@archangel20031]

Before 6 minutes, I'm betting that it looks like work hardening, so perhaps you should work it 1/2 way, anneal it, then finish?

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Try some 2024. I think they will still work for the Anti Facebook mind intrusion hats we were talking about.

[@pjhalchemy]

ROFL + 1 abnormally aspirated espresso. Good one Randy! Agreed on the 2024, perhaps 50 thou...then have it gold anodized for extraneous emf.

[@bloodyricho1]

Gold anodising dye is ferric ammonium oxalate. It's made out of iron and will affect the blocking affect of the aluminium. Black anodising is done with stanous sulphate which is made from tin, which would make a real tin foil hat which can block even the lizard people from reading your mind.

[@gregwarner3753]

I pity any lizard person that reads my mind. I saw a metal spinner spin a flange on the od to keep it from flopping around and wrinkilg.

[@datadavis]

I just paint the inside of all my hats and caps with lead oxide paint for +100 stealth

[@oldmaninthecave]

At least you ended up with a half-completed fairly nice wood bowl. (not food safe I imagine -- use for wax fruit only)

[@stevenkelby2169]

Aluminium is food safe again these days. That whole "aluminium causes alzheimer's" was a flawed study, now debunked.

[@oldmaninthecave]

@@stevenkelby2169 I said "nice WOOD bowl"; I was talking about the wood buck.

[@deepnhock]

Basic aluminum deal... Take your oxy acelelyne torch. Set it to sooty. Cover your aluminum with soot. Re-set your torch hotter. Burn the soot off the aluminum. That will soften the aluminum and you can form it without splitting.

[@michaelg_839]

deepnhock, not forgetting water quenching.

[@stevenkelby2169]

@@michaelg_839 That hardens it, not softens it.

[@michaelg_839]

@@stevenkelby2169 makeitfrommetal.com/how-to-anneal-aluminum-the-beginners-guide/

[@JoelsVideoJunk]

Tony I watched part 2 and Think i see where you're having trouble. If you notice a few video's of factories that are making spun aluminum tanks they have multiple positions where they fulcrum the tool. I think angle on the work is key here. If you have a tighter angle on the work you run the risk of applying too much downward force at once cause the work to harden and to press backwards onto the center. Try moving your fulcrum out from your work and mess with the angle your are pressing? Great vid!

[@trisrush9155]

Thicker material, annealed first, soap to lubricate, non rotating tool - a bit like a very polished smooth heel bar, on a long lever. Flat bar in the toolpost, with pins to lever the bar against, carriage locked. Hth!

[@jeffm470]

can you explain your tooling more, I'd like to try the setup you describe

[@bobgodburn5874]

I’ve seen spinning done with pewter, which I think is considerably more ductile. Instead of using a carriage-mounted tool, I saw a guy use a rounding tool in much the same fashion as would be done in a wood-working lathe. There was little or no wrinkling at the periphery and the finish was quite good. The guy was demonstrating some old-world machining techniques, but skill aside, I think he was using a more cooperative material than what you found.

[@ProjectWolfDragon]

TOT's playing with decaying tree carcasses.... SICK!!!

[@paulcopeland9035]

He has done it a time or two before. Go back a year or two and watch him "carpenter"!

[@remcovanvliet3018]

You need to soften the metal by annealing it. Heat it up to a dull orange and let it air cool back to room temperature before turning. If you feel the metal getting less compliant, anneal it again. This will prevent creasing and tearing.

[@Thee_Sinner]

I sure won't be inviting you to join This Old Bowling Team after seeing this...

[@mikedrop4421]

Uriah Siner it took me a second to realize the genius I was beholding.

[@Audio_Simon]

Stop everything! I don't remember writing a cheque for bowling!

[@thedillestpickle]

Maybe use a blank that is a lot larger than the finished project is meant to be. You saw the wrinkling on the smaller bowl at the edge, and then on the larger bowl at the edge. If you had a very large blank the edge would be so far away that it wouldn't have that tendency to wrinkle. Just a guess.

[@mauriziofigini]

for a minute I thought you were Mathias Wandel

[@hadinossanosam4459]

Or Frank Howarth...

[@mauriziofigini]

too close to call, pinewood + bandsaw spells more wandels than howarths to me though

[@seanp1602]

Well. Wait for the “I build it” rage post to confirm then. 👀

[@mauriziofigini]

in this case I would expect the video to start with some vigorous snow shoveling outdoors

[@vandyFixer]

maurizio figini with more than a hint of Diresta

[@blacktopimages]

My first job was metal spinning, i don't envy you trying to do it that way, you need to feel it out, we used steel wheels mounted on opposing poles, left controls x axis, right control y axis, and you can feel what you're doing.

[@anderskjelgaard907]

If you are using aluminium, you ned to know that it work hardens on it self over a period of 6 weeks. The trick to spinning aluminium is to use fresh rolled material. And dont bother with center dowel, just use a flat piece on your tailstock to support the work piece. That way you will be be able to draw all of the material from the center and outwards.

[@MostlyPeacefulWACO]

I was wondering if periodic annealing during the op would help.

[@davidcoghill8612]

It depends massively on the grade. Some will age harden at room temperature quite quickly. Others will barely age harden at all even at higher temperatures.

[@jakobn4191]

i thought brass or copper would be better to start out with

[@anderskjelgaard907]

Tsf Phi go byu a brain

[@stefantrethan]

There is a way to reverse that, involves heating. It's usually mentioned in regards to stress cracks when bending it, but it should apply here.

[@steamfan7147]

Anneal your material first,Aluminum cover it with spray paint first,allow it to dry and then take a propane torch and warm the part up evenly until the paint burns off.Allow it to air cool,it should be dead soft at that point.If it trys to work harden,take it off the lathe and rinse,repeat. Also once it is annealed it won't take as much pressure to spin so be careful it doesn't lampshade right off the bat.

[@TomChame]

Anneal, spin, anneal, spin, anneal and spin. Is your forming tool a roller bearing?

[@infinitenoodle7531]

Tom Q yes

[@BrendaEM]

I also am all for annealing it, at least 3 times, before your "lampshading." Some grease or oil might help too.

[@skuker]

The best cut gag yet

[@crystalsoulslayer]

He should learn to use keyboard shortcuts, though. It's way faster.

[@skuker]

Command Line or bust!

[@christopherbrougham]

Thank you for so much work and a great video, that sped up when needed. I have to say, you have a calling for lampshades for your disasters. They look great! Cheers from NZ...

[@theflava]

Act I: Woodworking for metalworkers with metalworking tools. I love it!

[@Skellertom]

I subscribed just because of the birthday cake thing. That was A+ my dude.

[@vanderhoof5701]

A: I think you need to anneal your aluminum first. Smoke it with acetylene then get the torch just hot enough to burn it off. B: I'd guess your metal lathe doesn't spin fast enough. Hook up a jet engine and spin that sucker at 100,000 rpm. If A: doesn't do the trick, try B:, or C: lol

[@mosfet500]

Tony, thanks for the video. I lube with wax while spinning and I temper the metal as I work it down. On another note, about cutting oils: I do use cutting fluid even with carbides, not necessarily for cooling but for lubricity. I think my tooling lasts longer and I get better cuts. Also I'm not seeing fracturing of my inserts. I use Cool Tool II, I settled on it after a lot of testing. It works well for tapping and my power saw too and is pretty low smoking. I tried Mobilmet 766 which is for thread cutting. It works well but it gets rancid in the can, maybe if I tried putting it in a small bottle it might not be so bad. For my shaper I use Anchor lube G771, it seems to stick to the metal better on the shaper but you can just use one cutting oil, if I had to choose it would be Cool Tool II. Rob

[@pmcKANE]

You've got dead tree carcass on your lathe! Sick!

[@Regalmetalworks]

I've done this is the past with 6061 tube and created a very nice bell mouth for an air intake. The trick, is heat. I needed to heat the aluminum while spinning with propane. It took some try and error, but in the end, the 4th one turned out beyond nice. I would try using heat while you spin, you will need to get it to the sweet spot temp wise, which in 6061 I think was around 600, but a hair over and it would fail. Good Luck!

[@flatbrokefrank6482]

I watched an engineer spinning metal some years ago now I seem to remember the setup was a tool post with two upright pegs in it and the tool was a ball on the end of a 5 foot piece of wood which was held firmly under the arm - ATB

[@Beardychiel]

That is the traditional setup and the tools came with multiple shaping profiles. All had mirror finishes and required to be polished regularly

[@HylianOverlord]

That was one helluva wood clamp you got there.

[@Donnerwamp]

Huh, a disclaimer? Hm, ok... WHAT?! 71% Danger?! I'm up for 70, but 71?!!! Nope, this shit is too real for me, I'm outta here!

[@kalikasurf]

T M S stick around man!!!! That fear is just weakness leaving the body!!!!

[@CLipka2373]

"I'm here to kick ass and chew sheet metal. And I'm all out of sheet metal." I may be playing the monday morning quarterback here, but I think your problem is that you're not stretching the material near the center enough, and as a result would have to stretch the material near the rim far more radially than circumferentially. You would have to continue to work on the center portion for a while, or come back to it again and again, even after you're already happy with that portion's shape, just to stretch it thinner. If that is impractical for any number of reasons, doing a multi-pass approach may be the way to go: Shape the piece onto a more shallow template first, and only go for the final shape in a second pass.

[@MostlyPeacefulWACO]

Thumbs up. I don't even wait to watch first.

[@A_Casual_NPC]

I've got en extension that does that for me, even better xD

[@vandyFixer]

Is it wrong to squeal like a little girl when you see a ToT notification? 🤔 just asking for a friend...

[@MostlyPeacefulWACO]

No, no it is not.

[@vandyFixer]

Waco Glenn what a relief. 😀 ... for my friend...a huge relief.

[@TabletopMachineShop]

Thumbs up to this comment. I didn't even read the second half.

[@millvalleypc7821]

@6:16 you explain that "the material is definitely stretching" which is true until you get near the top of your wooden form. @5:00 you explain that the wooden form is 12 inches in diameter, but your blank looks (@3:50) to be 14 or 15 inches in diameter, so the outermost edge crinkled because you were actually trying to compress the diameter from 14ish inches down to 12 inches. I'd guess the biggest blank you could use would be 12 inches.

[@Joe30pack]

I have officially given up on trying to figure out your editing techniques. I'm just going to watch and enjoy your videos from now on.

[@volvo245]

While work hardening probably plays a role in this problem, there might be another contributing factor: Your tool feed ln the z-axis isn't "floating" like in most manual metal spinning lathes. This rigidity might cause the workpiece to destroy itself instead of the tool head just absorbing the initial deformation or "riding the wave".

[@aserta]

The thing i see wrong here (with limited experience) is that you don't commit to the action, you have to carry out the "wave" all from point A to point B without flapping about, and maybe that you shouldn't use a metal forming tool. Just my two cents here.

[@fxm5715]

The way I was taught back in the 80s by a guy who produced tens of thousands of lighting fixtures, was to first tweak a small, raised rim at the edge to keep the piece stable, then, as you say, commit to the motion. The material will still work harden, of course, but it hardens a lot less if the forming is done in a few bold moves, as opposed to lots of timid ones.

[@joshtiel2980]

FXM I am logging this wisdom for future use. 👍👍

[@bwfixit]

yes! *Disclaimer: I have never even tried spinning, I am just a guy with the Dilbert "Knack" which is "a natural intuition of all things mechanical and electrical, and utter social ineptitude" and currently a junior in mechanical engineering* I think that the metal has to only stretch not shrink. Your motions are wanting the metal to shrink inwards more than stretch backwards. For all of the forming in the middle of the disk, the outer edge is preventing the material from folding and forcing the inner material to stretch away from those outer few inches in order to form the shape. but when you try to form that outer edge there isn't any more material to hold that edge and resist folding. This is compounded by the result of doing your motions this way, that remaining unformed outside edge has to shrink inwards more that stretch backwards because by waiting to form it at the end the inner material has stretched disproportionally more than the outside would have if it was possible to complete the part that way. forming a rim like FXM said adds structure that resists folding to the very edge making it less likely to fold like that.

[@martinpanev6651]

Hmm... Last time I checked This Old Tony... I thought he did machining and metalwork... Oh, Maybe I am at the wrong channel! (2:22)

[@dsandoval9396]

I thought you were going to play the "You spin me right 'round baby, right 'round..." song. Missed opportunities.

[@eliriesterer655]

my guess would be the speed differences between the smaller diameter near the dowel and the outer edge. the outer edge will be going significantly faster making it work harder quicker compared to the smaller relative area near the dowel. similar to how cutting speeds on the lathe need to change with steel the farther out from the bore axis you are. Just my thoughts, great vid as always.

[@arthurdent5536]

2:04 * music starts playing * Hello there everyone welcome back to... wait.... no...

[@Fredrikaolsen]

Arthur Dent thought the same

[@MatthewPfeil]

Probably has been said, but 5052 “O” is what you want to use. It is more elastic and will spin easier. If anything, it will work harden as you go, but should allow you to make what your are attempting. The stuff you had was more than likely already hardened. You could also try annealing it prior to spinning it. I have friend who have done the same procedures making propeller spinners.

[@ThoenWorks]

Didn't Xena wear a pair of these?

[@jamesg1367]

Hers were larger.

[@thermmaloverload]

Madonna did too

[@mattmoore1311]

Madonna stole hers from the tin man's head though.

[@mikeeagle2653]

You need to aneal and you need to use copper or use 1100 aluminum which is 99 percent aluminum . I use pizza trays they are the right alloy go to a restaurant supply and their cheap and already circle blanks ready to turn.

[@scttdllr]

1100-0, or 3003 would have worked great. Roller is too square, needs a better radius on it. Soap or Tool-Saver for spinning lubricant. Depending on grade of Aluminum torch heat may work. Get yourself some TempStiks heat to about 200°. 27 years of experience........

[@Ironnate87]

I was going to say the same about 1100 or 3003. Also for annealing, I scribble non-overlapping lines with sharpie and burn it off with mapp gas.

[@freekinfreak1]

With aluminum, we spin at 600 deg. Then again, our product is 2.5" thk and 19 ft. in dia.

[@scottwillis5434]

@@freekinfreak1 ...and how close to the workpiece do you stand?

[@freekinfreak1]

@@scottwillis5434 we check with temp sticks on the ends of broom handles, bout 6 feet away. The spinner is in an enclosed chair above the hydraulic roller.18 rose buds blowing wide open, it gets hot!!!!

[@Greg-nq4dj]

@@freekinfreak1 sounds like cool s*** I grew up in a machine shop stuff like that it's pretty cool

[@BubbleOnPlumb]

The wrinkles that you are getting toward the end is where the material has been stretched to facilitate the curvature closer to the center of the bowl. At some point you have to get that stretched circumference along the outer edge of the disc to shrink back in. This is done in blacksmithing by pounding out (but not creasing) those wrinkles in a dishing stump. You can also use an edge shrinker for sheet metal work but I have never had much luck with mine as it tends to scar the material a bit as it grabs on to the work piece. I have always had better results with the tried and true backsmithing method. See this video for a good explanation of what I am trying to explain: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3OpqHZ8nciqgdU Another option would be to start with a larger circle blank as you will only begin to get those wrinkles as you get closer to the outer edge of the material. If you start with a large enough disc, you can get the shape you want into the work early and then just trim off the wrinkled outer edge. This way you do not have to worry about having to hammer work your wrinkles out of the material. You will however have some "wasted" material.

[@Pro_Vs_Con]

That mouse my step-dad used 18 years ago playing mechaworrior made me feel so unnoticeably happy. Believe me.. Nostalgic at that.. 😊

[@DaRealdioactiveMan]

The song was awesome. It´s two days ago since I watched the video and I´m still dancing...

[@uelssom]

Nice one Tony! Ive always wanted to see your bowl movements

[@kalikasurf]

uelssom definite contender for top 10 comments!!! Well done sir

[@aherrera63]

I did all the initial forming with a larger nylon wheel (about 2") with a ball bearing in the center. I did the final detal with just the ball bearing.

[@barharborbasher249]

Great way to end the weekend 🍺

[@scottwillis5434]

Silicone baking sheet under the workpiece when spreading glue on a workpiece in a metal lathe, on a workbench...

[@matthewtscott1]

When I was doing my apprenticeship, our lecturer brought in this old bloke, he smelt somewhat of garlic, probably on account of the string of garlic round his neck, which apparently was the fashion back in the day.... Anyhow I digress 😁 He was a copper smith, not like the sheeties you get doing your arcondition ducting nowadays. A proper old fashioned copper Smith. Anyway he spent about an hour beating and heating, then re-beating this peice of copper with a wooden mallet, on a wooden form, while leaning on his wooden leg, (ok I made that last part up,) until he came up with an old fashioned copper kettle. So I guess you're wondering what the point of the story is? Well it turns out that strings of garlic tied round your neck are actually very fashionable 😁

[@matthewtscott1]

Oh and maybe a little preforming with a wooden mallet, then a little heat before finishing on the lathe might help 😁

[@colinfurze]

amazing

[@ersu.t]

you getting fashion advice Colin? Garlic would be less dangerous then wearing a tie I suppose! Shouldn't you be off playing with fireworks :)

[@andrewbishop7066]

Hi tony we had a spinning lathe where i first worked about 35 years ago we made lighting setups Im sure the old boy who did the spinning started with thicker smaller discs and streched it around the former might be totaly wrong as was about 17 at the time Keep up the good work

[@Dominic.Minischetti]

I used to know a metal spinner, he was amazing!

[@donaldasayers]

A Colchester Student where the gap bed piece hasn't escaped down a wormhole to wherever it is that they disappear to.

[@PiperFishing]

Much better than Aves attempt, nice going.

[@666Tomato666]

did AvE use even a roller in his attempts?

[@Joeameturexpert]

he was also making something that resembled a shot glass as opposed to a salad bowl. tighter turning without a rotating tool..

[@texasdeeslinglead2401]

bdpa kaknox it seemed like I remembered AVE doing this.

[@Shab-z]

And he was using copper

[@Sinnistral]

Yep, he was making a copper cup for a Moscow Mule, which ended up being more of a Russian Donkey... 😆

[@dimitar4y]

I knew it, I knew it, I saw that cake joke going AND IT STILL GOT ME GAH

[@shroomman4530]

Didn't AvE try this?

[@obi-wankenobi9871]

Yea, he made shot "glasses"

[@kalikasurf]

Ogri Grindstaff lets hope this is a cold war..... the world couldnt survive steel karate chops AND bumblefuckery if it went to defcon 4!!!!

[@siegwardcatarina3420]

yeah he did, but over the years I've noticed that AvE is terrible at doing anything other than telling you what everyone else is doing wrong. He's great at that.

[@arduinoversusevil2025]

Your trolling comment is all wrong. You need to add a ridiculous strawman with a red hearing down it's britches, THEN move the goal post. *Sheesh, kids.*

[@kalikasurf]

Siegward Catarina and the award for ‘man caught stepping on his dick’ award, goes to............squidward catamania!!!! Ha ha ha ha ha ha.

[@pauljs75]

Think of what Zildjian or Sabien must go through... Metal does spread out. Many places end up hammering to get that result, hand turning and working at the metal from more than one direction to control the material creep.

[@intjonmiller]

I have watched a LOT of How It's Made, so I can say with authority that you're not doing it right. 😂

[@samanthasoto21]

Same

[@Fuddleton]

I think it's a matter of the material you're using. You might actually want something harder. I've noticed that unalloyed aluminum heats up a lot at the tool contact point, which can cause galling. You can usually fix that with really fast tool speeds, but if you want to avoid that, you might want to try some 6061 aluminum. There may also be some friction between the backing piece and the work piece giving resistance when you stretch the material back. You might also want to try stopping halfway through and annealing your material as well.

[@pjt1965]

Bending the edge of the sheet before spinning prevents folding and use a lot of wax against scratches and spin from outside to inside to minimise stretching Oh yes there is a lot to it but I’m sure you will succeed 👍 enjoy 😉

[@allenmays8512]

6063 is softer and more ductile. I have never used it for an application like this, and I am not sure how readily available it is in thin sheets. 3003 might work, but again, I have never used it. Looking forward to round 2.

[@sethclark9780]

I love that you showed the whole process. The part where you actually set up your lathe was particularly interesting for some reason because nobody ever shows that part and I’ve never used a lathe. Was doing the CNC machine first easier than just shaping the bowl on the lathe? I would have liked to have seen the part wear the bowls go wonky but perhaps you didn’t film that. Great video, interesting and funny as always.

[@christinacolston1083]

I know this is an old video, but talk to brass musical instrument makers. This is a method used to finish bell flares along with a rolled rim. Metal stretches more than you think. The folds are from over stretching with nowhere to go. I don’t do this full thing of making bells on the lathe myself but I’ve messed up my fair share of trumpet bells trying to dedent them after they get dropped and turn into something like that lampshade bowl. All it takes is 1 to make you go 🤦‍♀️

[@Maineiac1955]

Hi I once saw a custom motorcycle program where the guy used an English wheel to make a chopper gas tank. I pretty sure he hit the aluminium with a smokey acetylene flame to soften the material.

[@keithklassen5320]

That's the beginning of the annealing process, there's a few more steps.

[@paulleftwick7782]

Curl outside temporary to support the center it's because tension is in center bend paper like a bridge outside is opposite of tension

[@josephleinhauser6130]

The gold color on the aluminum looks like hard coat type 3 anodizing without any dye added.

[@950rpm]

It was probably an Alodine chemical surface conversion. Leaves a gold-brown hue