Thread locking | nut locking

Sometimes you need to lock a nut or a bolt to prevent it from working loose. In this video we look at several methods of thread locking/nut locking including thread locking compound, Threadlocker, Nylock nuts, serrated washers, spring washers, castle nuts, lock nuts, nord-lock washers. It’s critical to choose the correct method of thread locking, especially when failure could be catastrophic.

[@MarkGarth]

Another good video. If you don't ever need the nut to be fully removed, you can use a punch in the centre of the exposed bolt. It doesn't take more than a blow or two to expand the bolt enough for the nut to be impossible to remove. You can also use a centre punch to peen the joint between a nut and a bolt, deforming the metal enough to lock them in place. You would usually do this in two or maybe three spots.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Mark Garth Thanks Mark, some good tips there ;-)

[@justbanter8727]

Nord-Lock washers are absolutely brilliant - was the only solution that helped me (eBike axle vibration kept loosening the axle nut despite having torque arms insitu). Great video, thanx for the upload.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, they are superb. Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@disconeil]

Wow! You have taught me so much. Working in heavy industry all my life (albeit manufacturing not maintenance) I never realised there were so many different techniques in nut locking. That there are different strengths of threadlock was a revelation. Thank-you. N.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Neil George You are welcome Neil Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@laserbrain7774]

@@ultimatehandyman I like that you are using 222, its the best. I use it to build bicycle wheels. Spoke nipples need to resist vibrations but stay adjustable.

[@cheechU38K]

Great vid! I use anaerobic at work to seal leaking joints on gas riser threads. Mostly green and yellow grades that are the thinnest although blue is good for dried out hemp on con nuts. Once it's set even a blow torch won't shift it lol

[@panagiotisk.900]

Extremely useful demo.

[@ravengsxr]

Very useful explanation, thanks.

[@GooseDave]

So many long-standing questions I've had, answered in one video. Cheers

[@ultimatehandyman]

Great to hear! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@cjacobs627]

OMG! Finally a video which actually shows how these work!!! Thank you!!!

[@ultimatehandyman]

I’m glad you found the video useful Thanks for the comment 👍

[@bdf2718]

There is another problem with serrated washers, spring washers, and any washer that bites into the surface of the piece or of the nut. If there is any sort of anti-corrosion surface finish they will breach that finish and that point will become a focus for corrosion. The MoD advises against those types of locking for that reason. The MoD advises against Belleville washers for the same reason. The MoD's preferred locking washer is the wave washer (less effective than other types of locking washer but doesn't cause corrosion). For high vibration environments the MoD's preferred technique is wire locking. Circular connectors in aircraft often use jam nuts (another name for thin lock nuts) with wire holes pre-drilled through them. Of course, if you want the nut to stay locked in place forever, and never wish to remove it, welding works. :)

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@mrman17]

I haven't seen those Nord-lock washers before. It does make a change to see someone not drilling metal at full speed without any kind of lube or paste (and then moan that their drill bit is blunt after its first use).

[@ultimatehandyman]

mrman17 They are not very common but are very good. I had applied Exact cutting paste to the drill bit ;-) Thanks for the comments

[@shahar85]

Thank you very much for all those details!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Shahar Dror You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@yensabi]

Nice one chez , i used to do a lot of launderette fitting and we always bolted the machines on to a pair of 10 inch rsj's and to make sure there was no loosening of the bolts due to vibration we put a spot weld on each nut at the top which held them solid , and it was quite easy to remove with a small grinder if the machine had to be changed in the future....

[@ultimatehandyman]

+yensabi Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@RichardTallent]

Very useful! I lost a solar panel recently from the top of my RV because the spring washers just couldn't handle the vibration. I'm about to head to the hardware store to see which combo of these techniques I can use to keep the panels in place.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Glad it helped! 👍

[@240Patrik]

The Nord-Lock washers are really great!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Patrik Johansson Yes, they are very good. A guy at work has a Nord Lock bottle opener and on it is a stud, a Nord lock washer (pair) and a wing nut. If you just nip the wing nut using your thumb and forefinger you can't undo it again without using a spanner! Thanks for the comment

[@123boat]

As always, very informative. Thanks for posting

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@vero0992]

Excellent video! I've been looking for a way to secure my kayak carrier to my roofrack on my car in a more secure way to deter theft of the kayak carrier. That way I can rest easy if I leave it on my car (empty) throughout the summer. I think a combination of Nyloc nut and a security bolt might do the trick. It will be hard to unscrew unless the thief is able to keep the bolt from turning with the nut, which hopefully I'd be able to do using the proper security bit. Anyway, great video! Thanks!

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@cliffmathew]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you.

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment 👍

[@fesy734]

Greatly detailed video as always sir!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Faisal Y Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@pay9011]

Very useful and excellently presented and filmed. I had to install an internal locknut and had no idea which direction the tabs should face...and how much to tighten them.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Glad it helped Thanks for the comment 👍

[@50SBarb]

Thanks! This was so helpful, and now I know what to use.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I'm glad the video helps ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@TheRealFOSFOR]

I once made a "stopper" out of a spring washer. It was just a stopper to prevent the bolt from falling through a hole.. I clamped the spring washer flat in the vice so that the hole was still visible. Then I made threads into the washer with a tap. I used some locking pliers to keep the washer flat while threading it on to the bolt. It then locks in place when you let go of the pliers. Worked like a charm. Its was just really fiddly to make.

[@ultimatehandyman]

He Ka I bet that was a bit of a fiddly job! Good idea though, thanks for sharing ;-)

[@jessiejordan2853]

Great video, very helpful. Many thanks!

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome. Thanks for the comment

[@clamlydia]

Clear and easy to follow. Thanks!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@murdomackay7438]

ah think il give the thread lock a go on my aftermarket gear knob as I keep needing to tighten up the 3 grub screws as they come loose,very helpful video thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

Murdo Mackay You are welcome Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@MalcolmJames-sg3zg]

Thanks another great video

[@2loco]

Very informative as usual. Thank you sire.

[@ultimatehandyman]

A. Samrout You are welcome Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@garyduncan7056]

This is a great video. I learned a lot. I do have a question. It seems that several of these methods (e.g., loctite, deformed nut) may make the bolt not suitable for re-use if you ever have to remove the nuts for some reason. Is this a correct assumption?

[@zedman442]

Excellent video chez. You forgot the weld lock, that bugger ain't ever coming off! 😉

[@ultimatehandyman]

Zed Man Never heard of them before, had to Google it LOL Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@mwc66]

very good informative video. great to see a Brit doing one of these kind of videos. them yanks think they run the show

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@espedale]

Very informative. Thank you!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Mark-zb9vd]

Thank you. Very nice explanation and visual examples.

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome!

[@ailenei88]

Great video, thank you!

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome. Thanks for the comment

[@13rmundo]

Great video. Thanks.

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Thank you for the very informative film. But how to find torque specifications for all those nuts? Can you recommend any link? As far as I understand this is a crucial question on all projects with different nuts.

[@aaqilkhan]

very informative video. thank you.

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Aaqil Khan You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@tariq2812p]

Thanks

[@MarvelMedicalMnemonics]

Thanks, this is a great video!

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment 👍

[@fkbu271]

Very informative, thanks a lot..

[@ultimatehandyman]

fitka kefas You are welcome Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@dave4854]

do not use the red Loc Tite unless you have heat to get the nut off someday, it turns to stone., always use the Blue Loc Tite unless instructed to do otherwise... do not use lock washers in places that will rust, the lock washer will eventually rust and break and you will have a loose bold.

[@RileyRampant]

thanks, good info Dave

[@laserbrain7774]

The video creator is showing you the correct one to use, its PURPLE (formula 222). Its strong enough for anything you want to do, and it stays adjustable/removable. Blue is for semi permanent. red is basically permanent.

[@rakeshtthakur9614]

this was an amazing video.

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Rakesht Thakur Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@carslover3509]

great report thanx

[@ultimatehandyman]

amjad amj Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@whotusay750]

Always very interesting, cheers

[@ultimatehandyman]

whotusay750 You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@vamsialuru7845]

thank you very much,it helped me a lot☺

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome ;-)

[@Eicles]

This reminded me of an issue I had tightening some stainless steel nylocks onto stainless bolts. The nut just got harder and harder to turn and eventually the small amount of heat generated by the friction cold welded the nut onto the bolt. I had a look afterwards and it turned out it was 'thread galling'. There was no way to finish tightening the nut and no way to remove it so I had to actually cut the bolt off and replace it. It apparently happens when you use nuts and bolts that are the same grade of stainless, and the nylon probably made it worse by pressing the threads together.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Eicles Thanks for this post, we often have this problem with some machines that use stainless steel bolts. I did not know there was a specific term for it though, we normally just say that stainless on stainless tends to "pick up". Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@Dinco422]

Nice vid mate, ty

[@ultimatehandyman]

👍

[@davidworsley7969]

Great as usual-the skill in drilling through that bolt freehand and coming out in the right place would be beyond most people. As a collector of bright cheap and shiny things,I have acquired several multimeters-I find the instructions incomprehensible and in very small print.Have you done a video on these? All I want to use them for is to check out circuits,fuses etc.

[@ultimatehandyman]

David Worsley Thanks David, Yes I have done a few videos- kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWe2onqZjb6ggtk kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5TImqSll9uEgsU kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4vXZINvl9uhbq8 I hope this helps ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@davidworsley7969]

Thanks for your help

[@ultimatehandyman]

David Worsley You are welcome ;-)

[@JohnWilson-xi2wu]

Excellent Video.Thank you.What was the substance you applied to the end of the drill bit?

[@ultimatehandyman]

John Wilson It was Exact cutting/drilling paste. I have been using this instead of drilling/tapping fluid and it seems much better. I'll compare the two when I get chance ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@Gandalf4137]

The information in this video is very useful. I have a DeWalt core drill (D21570K). Its auxiliary handle is attached to the end cap and the end cap is held in place by three small screws. These screws come loose on me every now and then as I core drill almost every day. Getting rid of the machine because of 3 screws would be silly, so I wonder if a few drops of red loctite might help. I tried the blue one but they eventually came loose again. Thank you. :)

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, it is definitely worth a try. We have some green Loctite at work and that is very difficult to remove. Thanks for the comment

[@jordancorey]

Why would anyone dislike this video??? very informative. Thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

jordancorey Haters gonna hate I'm afraid ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@Padraigcoelfir]

Loctite 222 needs the 649 primer to be activated, you need to rely on a chart for the proper Loctite for the proper bolt size. Generally with some exceptions M6 or 1/4 and above takes 643(this one comes with the primer in the solution, when you see a 2 at the end of the loctite number it means it doesn't have the primer in it) The Green loctite is used for bearings, dowel pins and bushings. the Red locitite will require a heat treatment (above 380ºC for a short while). For maximum efficiency Nyloc needs at least three threads passing the nut to be efficient. Interesting video!

[@Padraigcoelfir]

Avoid Loctite 643 with flat head bolt (countersink) It's too strong, you'll break your tool and this is also a safety issue since I know two accidents for this kind of locking on an assembly. The tool broke and the blokes deeply cut their hands. It was really bad. Two events, a month apart, the engineers set a new procedure.

[@briansmith3050]

Great video

[@ultimatehandyman]

Brian Smith Thanks Brian ;-)

[@BigDxxxx1]

Fab video, always learning. Question please Chez, I'm always having to tighten the fastenings on our toilet seats every 4 or 5 months. They're awkward to get to and I do them as tight as possible but they just work loose. I've tried the plastic fastenings that cone with the seats, tried the metal butterfly nuts and now tried plain nuts & bolts... Do you think the loctite stuff will work and stop them working loose? Thanks, Dale. Ps. Have you ever been to the Screwfix Show in Manchester, wondered if it was worth registering for next time... I missed the last one?

[@ultimatehandyman]

BigDxxxx1 It might work for that. Have you considered using well nuts? If you Google "well nuts toilet seat" you should find them. They can be used with some toilet seats to prevent the seat working loose. Screwfix live was good at Event city, there was some really good exhibits there from Zinsser, Evolution, Trend and many more. Unfortunately it's down South this year, if it comes to Manchester again I would definitely go ;-)

[@b0r3d0n1ine]

Thumbs up and i subscribed... I bought a weight lifting bench for my room, it uses a 'Nylock Nut'... i wondered why it wouldn't screw down... the instructions call it an M3 Aircraft Nut... lol

[@ultimatehandyman]

I'm glad the video helped Thanks for the comment 👍

[@ranjitfernando5241]

Thanks for all the info and teaching. Should have taught about the Loctite also

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment 👍

[@bltefft]

Nice video. Like you said, if you use red loctite, it's going be real DIFFICULT to loosen the nut later. That's why I use the blue loctite on nuts that I may want to get off.

[@ultimatehandyman]

👍

[@johnkoester7795]

How can I attach a tab washer to a smooth rod?

[@Farseer1995]

Replacing an a/c clutch by myself and this was a very informative video. For something that spins that much per minute of use, I think I'll stick with blue threadlocker and a nylon bolt. Cheers.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment 👍

[@PashaSiraja]

Lovely video mate, lots of love !!

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Pasha Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@arbeeex]

Perhaps this is uncommon in the UK or if more precision is needed, drilling a hole through a bolt is undesirable if you have access to bolts that have the hole already drilled. (like on automobile axles). After torqueing, If not in the exact location to line up the castle with the hole you just tighten just enough to expose the hole and insert your cotter pin.

[@assmunchtv]

Cool!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Joseph Muela Thanks for the comment

[@WELLBRAN]

Used this on my interior door knobs always coming loose in time so far this has cured it.....now I have stopped locking myself in the toilet as I used to ......"me knob came off in me hand guv...honest"!

[@ultimatehandyman]

WELLBRAN LOL, that sounds painful ;-)

[@WELLBRAN]

***** I put it down to "overuse". Wahaha!

[@jusb1066]

The other advantage of using a threadlock liquid is it seals the threads against corrosion, so some years later you will be glad of it. ive seen some fasterners which are 'pre-loctited' as i would call them, a blue bit of glue like stuff is already applied near the top where it would finally sit. im with you on spring washers, i dont think they are a good way to do it, and nylocs you have to remember they are only good once, the nylon onces it has threaded once, loses its grip, (theres an all metal version for car exhausts due to the heat) so all in all, those are both a bad choice if you have to run them down a long thread before as they lose their grip. so all in I keep loctite and standard nuts washers for general, and buy the metal deformed ones new for car exahust, you wont need much else then

[@ultimatehandyman]

+jusb1066 Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@raveboy24]

awesome video. what bolt/bolts to use for a single hook??? (I wanna hold a punching/boxing bag 35 Kgs) and although it can withstand the weight, the vibrations when hitting the bag hard cause the screw to get loose.

[@raveboy24]

+raveboy24 i mean what type of "nut" to use...

[@ultimatehandyman]

+raveboy24 A Nylock nut would probably be best. They should not come undone with vibration from a punch bag.

[@raveboy24]

+Ultimate Handyman image is rotated (bolt goes into ceiling, first part brick, next part concrete), and after hook I hung the bag. s8.postimg.org/aji1bydf9/20160308_230938.jpg the nut there is the standard nut. do I add a Nylock Nut against the other nut, or remove the standard nut and use the Nylock only? ps:I bought a Nylock Nut today but it was wrong size....

[@ultimatehandyman]

+raveboy24 You might struggle with the Nylock as it's going to be upside down once it's screwed down the thread. It should still work though.

[@ultimatehandyman]

+raveboy24 I forgot to say that I'd replace the existing nut ;-)

[@alianildinler]

are washers always placed before nuts or can we use them before bolts?

[@ultimatehandyman]

They can be used on the bolt end in some situations. If it's a flat washer you often get one on the bolt and nut end, sometimes you get a spring washer on the bolt end if it's not possible to put it on the nut end.

[@alamaru1]

What if you turn the tip of the bolt into a rivet, make it mushroom over the bolt?

[@125brat]

Yes you can pein the threads over to prevent the nut coming loose. It all depends on the application.

[@redafilaly1292]

Merci beacoup pour les informations nouvelles ......

[@ultimatehandyman]

Je vous en prie. Merci pour le commentaire

[@eoc811]

ive got this two stroke engine im trying to keep this nut from becoming loose on the crankshaft

[@ultimatehandyman]

The Nord lock washers will probably be best, if you can source the correct size (and there is enough room for washers)

[@eoc811]

@@ultimatehandyman okay thank you :)

[@PetePuebla]

Can nylon nuts be reused or are they one and done?

[@ultimatehandyman]

You can normally re-use them, but after a few uses they can be less effective 😉

[@glblb3030]

good info

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@glblb3030]

your welcome@@ultimatehandyman

[@V22D]

what a good bolt & nut for high heat

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Vicente Dominguez It depends how hot it will get. Most bolts can cope with some heat, but I'd use deformed nuts or castle nuts and split pin rather than nylocks as the nylon can melt at high temperatures.

[@V22D]

+Ultimate Handyman thanks for the quick reply...its for my exhaust pipe my motor vibrates too much and the bolts are always coming loose

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Vicente Dominguez I'd just use a steel bolt (not stainless steel) and either a deformed nut or a normal nut and nord-lock washer- that should prevent it from vibrating loose. You could try a normal nut and spring washer first though, but they can vibrate loose if there is a lot of vibration.

[@V22D]

+Ultimate Handyman im gonna try that nord lock washer I really appreciate the help

[@ultimatehandyman]

+Vicente Dominguez The nord-lock will guarantee that it never unintentionally comes undone- good choice ;-)You are welcome BTW.

[@astafzciba]

What a nice torque wrench where did you get it

[@ultimatehandyman]

astafzciba I didn't use a torque wrench, for the purpose of the demonstration I used a spanner which was part of a set bought from Buck & Hickman.

[@astafzciba]

Yes the golden spanner wrench thanks for correcting me

[@ultimatehandyman]

astafzciba No problem, I'm not sure how durable the coating is on the spanners. It will probably wear off eventually. This is the set I have- www.buckandhickman.com/find/keyword-is-colour+spnner/product-is-1304632 Thanks for the comments ;-)

[@astafzciba]

Omg that's it thank you inloved them

[@ultimatehandyman]

astafzciba You are welcome ;-)

[@counterinstitute]

How would lock bolts and nuts securely against theft i.e. can it be locked in a way that cannot be opened again with tools?

[@ultimatehandyman]

To prevent theft, you might be better off using shear nuts- kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4aTdKCHdpeamaM Or you could weld the nut to the bolt.

[@counterinstitute]

@@ultimatehandyman Thank you very much for your reply and making me aware of shear nut. Very cleaver phenomenon. I'll buy that and save me from thinking all strange ways of securing a bike stand rack.

[@ironmecanic]

Nord-Lock washers and you have no problem

[@ultimatehandyman]

Absolutely. Thanks for the comment

[@gullreefclub]

I have seen instances of Nord-Lock washers failing for what I believe one of two reasons the first I appears to be the use or should I say incorrect use of an impact gun. When I call an incorrect use of an impact gun is somebody hammering with a impact gun on the fastener causing the cams to shear or round over thus losing their locking ability or at least greatly diminishing it. The second failure I have seen although not as much is failure of the washers to what I believe is a manufacturing problem that being over hardening of the washers themselves which in turn causes the cams to shear and or the washer to crack\break into pieces much like a spring lock washer can While I certainly agree that Nord-Lock washers are in general better to other "lock-washers" I firmly believe if my life or someone else is life is depending on a nut and bolt to stay tight castle nuts and saftey-wire is the best way to go. Lastly it is my belief that in general Nord-Lock washers and impact guns do not play well together.

[@lightningsmokerXx]

Is it ok to use Thread Locker / Loc-Tite with Nylon Nuts?

[@johnaweiss]

I've heard the adhesive can take 4 hours to cure. True?

[@ultimatehandyman]

Not sure, I don't think it specifies a time on the stuff that I have used. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@GTRliffe]

i use strands copper wire, and wrap around the thread a few times. (any wire strands work)

[@ultimatehandyman]

👍

[@charliewindsor2992]

Great video as always could you do some welding for dummies videos starting from the basics up most videos on here get far to hi tech and complicated far to fast

[@ultimatehandyman]

charlie windsor Thanks, I have tried to film how to weld a few times but I can never film it correctly due to the brightness of the ark. I have tried several lenses and filters etc. I will have another go when I get chance ;-)

[@charliewindsor2992]

Have you tried using welding glass from an old mask ive seen a few guys use it in a couple of videos

[@ultimatehandyman]

charlie windsor Yes, I bought a few different shades to try and even bought the lens from an auto darkening helmet, but none of them worked. As soon as you put something in front of the lens of my camera it focuses on that rather than what's at the other side of the lens. I even tried some specific UV screw on filters for the camera and that didn't work either. I asked in a few camera forums too but still could not get satisfactory results. I'll keep trying when I have some time ;-) Thanks for the suggestion

[@charliewindsor2992]

***** Thats a shame thanks for trying

[@ultimatehandyman]

charlie windsor No problem, I'll keep trying ;-)

[@jyotirdiptadas3989]

How to know the exact amount of torque required in case of nut tightening

[@ultimatehandyman]

You will be able to find charts online that will specify the recommended amount of torque for the diameter of bolt that you are using, like this- www.norbar.com/Portals/0/downloads/TorqueValueGuide.pdf

[@bandogbone3265]

Avoid Ripp Lock washers. They have some similarity to Nord-Lock washers, but they are one-piece deceptively-marketed rip-offs, so the controlled hard ramp surfaces that are key to the Nord-Locks are completely absent in Ripp Locks. Claims that they work the same cannot be true because the base material is typically softer than the washer and will eventually wear. With Nord-Locks, the ramps between washer pairs are actually an active component that gives a little and then recovers during vibrations, while retaining bolt tension within spec. An interesting approach taken by Oglaend is to put a different thread shape into the nuts such that, when tightened, horizontal nut movement is restricted. Like Nord-Locks, Oglaends seem to be very effective in tests, and they may be better where no movement of the fastener can be tolerated. Which one to choose would require testing for specific usages, since the two might have different tolerances and failure modes under various conditions of stress.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the info ;-)

[@1996yayo]

Ima try this on my skateboard truck's when I get my hands on some loctite

[@ultimatehandyman]

It's good stuff, there are a few different strengths. We use on at work that requires power tools to break the bond (green). Thanks for the comments

[@Pete4875]

When using a locking nut the thin one always goes first or next to the joint.

[@ultimatehandyman]

There is a lot of debate on the internet over which nut goes first, but when I did my exams (UK) the thin nut went on last. Thanks for the comment

[@Pete4875]

If you go to Bolt Science: www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm It will explain everything you want to know.

[@meyawabdulaziz3863]

Excellent demonstration.....I don't like those spring washers

[@ultimatehandyman]

Faisal Abdulaziz Thanks Faisal, we do use spring washers at work quite a lot. In the video you'll remember me mentioning about them breaking up once. I used to maintain some specialist trucks that run on rails, a bit like a railway carriage. They weigh about 10 tonnes when fully laden. There were 4 wheels on these trucks (solid steel). I installed a couple of wheels one day only to find out that the spring washers had disintegrated, which meant the bolts loosened- causing the wheels to vibrate loose. I have never trusted spring washers since ;-)

[@meyawabdulaziz3863]

that was bad.... :( in my opinion they dont work ...(spring washer) any other type would work better.. locking paste locking nut... locking nut with poly double nuts ( if there is enough threads )

[@ultimatehandyman]

Faisal Abdulaziz This was a bit of a difficult situation as the wheel assemblies were bolted from above, with a nut underneath with a tab welded on to stop them rotating. Thread locking compound could not be used as the trucks go into wet ovens and after a few cycles it would be impossible to remove the bolts (we often had to gas axe the heads from the bolts). The Nord-lock washers would probably have worked. They still use spring washers, I think perhaps the suppliers had sent M 20 spring washer instead of 3/4 imperial spring washers. Thanks for the comments ;-)

[@meyawabdulaziz3863]

an m20 washer which is 20mm ..abit bigger than 3/4" (.75") = 19.05mm ...but i suppose they both do

[@ultimatehandyman]

Faisal Abdulaziz Yes, they are similar in size but much of the imperial stuff is much heavier gauge for some reason. If you compare a M20 nut to a 3/4 UNC nut the UNC nut is a lot heavier- I vaguely remember a guy at work saying there are two types of nuts for UNC, so there is a light version and a heavy version- perhaps that was the problem with the spring washers on that occasion. Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@rjlundeen]

Why the gloves?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I wear them out of habit, as I have to wear them all the time when on site.

[@biocyd3]

You can also peen over the nut into the bolt. ;) Used a lot on automobile axels.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@MacDonnchaidh-gb2sz]

what did he call the small nut on top of the large one, sounded like a walking nut

[@ultimatehandyman]

A locking nut or lock nut 👍

[@tuva600]

Had to thread a bunch of nylock nuts when I realized I didn't have a small enough wrench. So I did it all with two pliers... Never again...

[@ultimatehandyman]

tuva600 They are a nightmare without the correct sized wrench! Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@otablott7779]

Loctite + Nord Lock = almost guaranteed locking under vibration

[@ultimatehandyman]

👍

[@williamwazere]

I thought the nylon locking nuts were actually pretty resistant, I am surprised that they were kind of down the list so to speak. I suppose you say 'critical applications' and that really is for aircraft and machines where people directly rely on there operation for there safety so they have a place. Better than spring washers anyway, they always seemed like they were just to make people feel better haha This was an interesting site I found a while ago. The second link is a video with a vibration test set up, see it in real time loosening. Probably not useful for you as this is your bread and butter but others might be interested: www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm www.boltscience.com/pages/junkertestvideo.htm

[@ultimatehandyman]

zero_sum Thanks, I have seen that machine before doing tests for the Nord-lock washers, very interesting ;-)

[@mrman17]

zero_sum Nylock nuts have been used on cars instead of the castle nuts for some time (for things like ball joints), but like you say, I presume they're not good enough for use in aircraft.

[@254lele]

is this scottish?

[@ultimatehandyman]

English, my accent is Darwen/Lancashire Thanks for the comment 👍

[@muhmmadusman3175]

helo

[@dakiaki1923]

a1

[@JohnDoe-qg1pj]

Great video! I have a question which I can't seem to find an answer to, I hope you can help. If you've ever used one of these: encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcRK8lmLGKzbxVRzEf-I2yR282ujc4QIskwVzMaz2dB4W3JbmBpv I wonder what happens if none if the teeth align with any of the nut's slots? I guess you can unscrew the nut a bit, but then you're not using the specified torque anymore.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, yes we use these regularly on site on a machine where it is almost impossible to torque up the nut, as it is in a recessed bearing housing. Normally we just knock the nut around (clockwise) until it meets with a tab on the washer, then bend the tab over into the slot on the nut. I've been doing this for over 10 years and never had a bearing fail yet, there are 20 bearings per machine, and two machines which run 24/7 for about 340 days per year. Thanks for the comment

[@horizonnp5153]

Rip headphone users

[@lancebaker1374]

Nord-Lock is not unique. Another brand is HEICO Lock Washer.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, they look identical to the Nord-lock!

[@justbanter8727]

Lance Baker, sure looks the same - I think I read somewhere that there's a Patent Argument going-on, or at least there was?!

[@brunoburtoni8479]

What lubricant was that to drill in?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I can't remember the make that I'm using at the moment, but it is identical to this stuff- fave.co/2Nf3NXu Thanks for the comment