Thru-Hiking the West Highland Way with my Dog: Milngavie to Rowardennan | Wind, Rain & a Rough Start

In March of 2024, Otto and I thru-hiked the West Highland Way in Scotland, one of the most famous long-distance trails in the UK. Come join us for the first two days of our (wild)camping adventure that turned out a lot harder than expected. We had strong winds, rain and hiked in freezing temperatures…. off to a tough start!
Stay tuned for part 2 of this adventure ;)
Happy hiking,
Elli and Otto 🐕‍🦺
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Time stamps:
00:00 Intro
00:27 Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen
08:47 Day 2: Drymen to Loch Lomond

[@edwesterdale-music]

I don't know what Otto's life was like before being rescued, but I can't imagine a much better life for a little dog than going on these wonderful walks. Even if it is occasionanally cold and windy.

[@ellihikes]

Aww, thank you so much! That's very sweet :) he used to live in a cage for the first 3 years of his life.... I like to think that he's now so active and full energy as if he would want to make up for that time 🥰🥰

[@rowancrafts]

I love to see Otto curled up in his own sleeping bag.

[@ellihikes]

😊🥰🥰🥰

[@BB-kl3wg]

Love your determination, bravery, and resilience. Go, Elli, go! Good boy, Otto!

[@ellihikes]

Aww, that's so kind! Thank you so much :)

[@PhilMcKelliget]

I always think that the first two days of any long hike are the toughest, both physically and mentally. So keep your pecker up, Elli - it will get easier!

[@ellihikes]

Yes, that's true - getting into the routine isn't easy. Thank you so much for following along 😊😊

[@danielosullivam6662]

I use silicon ear plugs. Great for blocking out noisy weather and tent flappage

[@ellihikes]

I sometimes use them too, but when I'm with Otto I also don't want to block out noises too much just so that I know what's going on outside....

[@Prince_Buster]

You are a true warrior! Some major challenges and yet you kept digging deep and never gave up. Well done Elli & Otto

[@ellihikes]

😊😇😇 thank you so much for the kind words 😊

[@mikePNW]

Tough start, but you all are doing great! Try to keep that positive attitude going, it's so important when things aren't going as well as you hoped. You got this!

[@ellihikes]

That's so true - I always try doing that :) thank you so much for the encouragement and for following along :)

[@DemiGod..]

Did the west highland way with a 3 season Wild Country Mistrel 2 tent. During torrential downpour, the inner was full of water by the time I erected the outer. The tent was later flattened next to cairngorm in a storm with estimated 80mph winds. My map was ripped out of my pocket in the storm. Since then only use hilleberg tents which are considered to be the best. If did the West Highland way again, in winter, would take my 3 season Anjan 2, a tunnel tent, if not expecting snow as bomproof. and light or the Akto. You were not happy with the winds and rain, which to me is what I look forward to when camping after a long day

[@janicemiddlemass5215]

Well done Ellie and Otto, that was hard work with the weather against you , i was a week behind you started 1st April, weather was mixed, but only 4miles of rain to walk in the whole week , i have been so lucky, weather makes all the difference, its such a lovely walk i love it 😊hope all go well in your next video. Thank you for sharing 😊

[@ellihikes]

Aww, thank you so so much! Glad to hear that you've had better weather... we've had some sunny days too, but also some very harsh conditions 😅🫣 thank you for following along!!

[@stephenvicary9243]

Hi Elli & Otto, great video as always. It looks like the trip is quite a challenge this time with the all rotten weather we’ve been having. Rain, Wind, Cold, Mud…. repeat. You’ll be well into the walk by now and I guess the Spring Scottish climate is living up to its damp reputation! But I bet the ever changing scenery is a big plus. Keep squelching along 🥾 💦

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much, Stephen! I really appreciate the kind words :) yes it's been quite wet in Scotland so far - very different from the last 2 years where I apparently was very lucky with the weather I had in Scotland 😅😊 but the scenery is incredible and that makes it a bit easier :)

[@chrishiking8818]

Nice one all , Elli you are truly a real awesome hiker because they always smiles no matter what the weather is . Take care all 🌷

[@ellihikes]

Aww, thank you so much Chris!

[@100Noddy]

Reminder to self, start the WHW until beginning of May

[@Daytona2]

The abnormal weather is probs down to El Nino, but yeah as a huge generalisation, you should be as safe as you can be in May. But I think Elli has an action packed schedule.

[@ellihikes]

May is hopefully a bit easier this year :) but that being said, I've hiked in Scotland in April 3 years in a row now and was always very lucky. Not very wet every time and very sunny... which is why I was hoping this time would be similar 😅🫣

[@musingwithreba9667]

The X-Mid tent can be a challege to pitch even in perfect conditions! I think probably everyX-Mid owner has had at least one meltdown trying to get a perfect pitch 😂

[@ellihikes]

Hahahaha, probably true! It's crazy how bad that was despite having pitched the tent well over 100 times already 😅🫣 good to hear that I'm not the only one 😅

[@Crazy-s8s]

Ms Elli and Otto you guys were troopers on this stage👍🏻 I know you will and do please make sure to keep hydrated and eat regularly as you can. The wind, rain and cold nights are definitely morale and strength sappers🥲 Your inner strength and determination always impresses me so much regardless of how the moments going, you still beauty in the surroundings and always manage to smile😃 You are in my thoughts and prayers Ms Elli for better weather and conditions soon and as always safe hiking and travels Give Otto a scratch for me, take care, keep safe and take care👍🏻🙏🏻😃☺️

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much for the kind words!! Yes, I really didn't realize that I didn't eat or drink enough at first, I rarely feel hungry when out hiking, so often times I just forget 🫣

[@Crazy-s8s]

You’re most welcome Ms Elli 😃 That’s understandable, get focused on getting to the next stop, and of course adverse weather never a big help either🥲 Give Otto a pat for me and take care, keep safe and hike onward Ms Elli 👍🏻🙏🏻😃☺️

[@newington7061]

Always smiling and positive. You are very inspiring and full of knowledge. Have great adventures.

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate that 😊

[@lizwallace273]

Ugh, you got the worst of the weather this day! It brings back memories of our walk in April last year. It dumped down rain on us from Drymen to Rowardennan, too. But we had beautiful sun on day 3. Hope you did, too!

[@ellihikes]

We did have a sunny day luckily for the stretch along Loch Lomond :) it really was a mix of everything on this years WHW hike 🫣 thank you so so much for following along!

[@benny_vanlife]

I love how Otto chooses his favourite treat, he needed to double check the bag to make sure there wasn't a better one in there. 🥹 Stay strong 💪🏻, think how much you'll appreciate the sunny, calm days

[@ellihikes]

Hahahaha, it's the cutest thing 😊🥰🥰 thank you for following along :)

[@alangauld6079]

I've been waiting for this to drop. So nice to see you in my neck of the woods. But you really should tack on the Kelvin Walkway next time, from Milngavie to the centre of Glasgow. It's a great wee starter to the WHW (I wish they'd incorporate it into the official trail, I feel so many walkers miss out on a great experience without doing it!).

[@Daytona2]

I'd never heard of it - it looks great 👍

[@ellihikes]

I've actually walked a bit of it last year on my JoGLE, along Allander Water iirc :) thank you so much for following along!!

[@cheekuenbird38]

So.....happy to see and Otto. Always cheers me up. The weather is not so good. Do keep warm . Take care ❤

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much, that's very kind :)

[@Curlew-Corner]

Hard work for you. Take care and hope it’s gets easier.

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much 🤗🤗

[@goulash75]

I did this hike 25 years ago. HATED the first half of it. Once up to Tyndrum, it changed and the further I went, the better it got. I'm turning 50 next year, and am currently trying to get fit enough to do the hike again for my birthday. This time I'll start in Tyndrum and hike up to Kinlochleven, then there, I'll turn of the Way, and head north east, into the more remote mountains, up to Spean Bridge, before heading back to Fort William. Roughly the same distance, but all in the highlands and away from civilization. Bliss!

[@ellihikes]

True, the first stretch isn't my favorite either and I also like the second part a lot more :) your plans sound great, a great hike and addition to the WHW 😊

[@donnadudding1813]

Hello Elli & Otto. I know how you feel, I went a week into March and there were no campsites or anything open at that time. Never saw any other hikers for 2 days and then only saw about 5 for the rest of the trip! I found it really tough 😟

[@ellihikes]

Wow, that really sounds tough! I met quite a few people , it really got busier in the days before Easter. But I can imagine how tough it's been with no campsites open 😵‍💫🫤🫤 so well done!!

[@user-bq8jd2lt2g]

HI Elli, its good to see you on the trail again and with a new companion in Alex. I wish you both many times in the natural world , I also note that you have converted your jogger into an occasional camper, I have done the same with my VW Caddy it especially suits my Springer Spaniel Rosie, who as she is getting older, enjoys the comfort, Otto will I'm sure soon feel the same. John

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much for following along :) yes, Otto loves the car too. With all the blankets it's so cosy and he loves lying in it and looking out the window. Really useful to have it as a 'base' and for a rest/resupply etc. :)

[@user-pu5ml4bs7u]

good to see someone hike with there dog🙂👏

[@ellihikes]

😊😊😍

[@katrinkruger5837]

Liebe Elli, wo ist Otto eigentlich wenn du unter die Dusche gehst? Gedanken, die ich mir als frische Hundebesitzerin und Langstreckenwanderin gerade mache. Viele Grüße aus dem Harz, Milo und Katrin

[@ellihikes]

Otto wartet dann einfach im Zelt. Er ist es gewohnt, ich 'verabschiede' mich immer mit denselben Worten, sodass er am Tonfall versteht, was Sache ist und kann sich dann total entspannen und schläft. Würde es am Anfang aber kleinschrittig aufbauen. Im Prinzip identisch wie beim Alleinebleiben in einer Wohnung :)

[@barrypanaretou9124]

I'm heading to the West Highland way on the 29th of April and after watching your video I kind of have a bit of anxiety now. However I loved your video and your bravery fantastic!!!

[@ellihikes]

Noooo, don't be anxious!! The weather was a bit out of the norm and wetter than usual apparently! But things are looking better now and the past few days have been a lot drier :) Have an amazing time, it's spectacular :)

[@barrypanaretou9124]

@@ellihikes thank you for your kind reply Elli and love to u and Otto 💖

[@nickwinter991]

That looked really tough - and you are still on the flatter part of the WHW! Difficult to get a good night's sleep in a tent when it is really windy - well done for toughing it out, I'd be in a hostel or B&B every time in those conditions. Otto seems to take it all in his (short) stride though. I'm looking forward to catching up with the next videos, I've been away and missed them as they came out. I hope the weather improves for you in the next videos, although I suspect it might not!

[@ellihikes]

Yes, we were off to a rough start. I don't know what I was thinking..... I was so lucky overall in April last year and thought that it would be similar 😅🫣 it definitely was challenging this time getting into the routine. And yes, you're right in thinking that the weather didn't really improve that much.... the WHW was still ok overall, but I had some very bad weather in the week after that and just woke up in snow in the Cairngorms 2 days ago 🫣😵‍💫😳 Now I have high hopes for the TGOC at least 😅😅 spring has to come at some point....

[@user-iv2vv1km8n]

Hang in there Ellie

[@ellihikes]

😊😇😇

[@Randolf4475]

Größten Respekt von mir, bei solchen harschen Bedingungen noch so viele Meilen geschafft. Danke für die Anregungen fürs Fußtraining in einer der letzten Videos, hat geholfen ;) Können Sie noch ein kurzen Gear-Erfahrungsbericht erstellen wenns die Zeit zulässt und war die Rucksackgröße optimal? Schwanke noch zw. 50 und 60L beim AtomPacks Mo. Ansonsten: Keep on going. Elli and Otto, stay healthy and all the best. Many greetings from the baltic sea *G

[@ellihikes]

Das freut mich sehr, vielen lieben Dank :) Dankeschön für die lieben Worte!! Zur Rucksackgröße: schwer zu sagen - bei den meisten wird das front mesh ja zum Volumen dazugerechnet, sodass es zwar insgesamt 60l sind, aber eben mit allen Taschen perfekt 'ausgereizt'. Oft machen 50 oder 60l gewichtsmäßig nicht so viel aus und die Atompacks kann man ja durch den rolltop verkleinern, wenn man das Volumen nicht ganz nutzt. Ich würde tendenziell eher zu 60l tendieren, damit man die Option hat, mal mehr mitzunehmen, wenn nötig (größeres Winterequipment, mehr Essen, etc.). Falls du das in Erwägung ziehst, würde ich vermutlich zu 60l tendieren, das Zelt kann man dann ja auch innen rein. Bei Touren für Frühjahr-Herbst mit essen für max 3 tage reichen sicher auch 50l, je nachdem, wie minimalistisch deine Ausrüstung ist. Die 55l passen für Otto und mich mit ein paar Tagen Essen/Futter gerade so, wobei das Zelt aber obendrauf ist....

[@Randolf4475]

​@@ellihikes Vielen Dank für die Einschätzung. Vermutlich werde ich erst einmal Ausrüstung ausleihen, die dem Temperaturbereich entspricht, wo man perspektivisch unterwegs ist, um nicht böse überrascht zu werden. Euch weiterhin schöne Tour-Tage und auf den nächsten 3000 Abos 👍😉

[@mariatassoni3781]

Keep taking great care of yourself and Otto! Eating enough and hydrating well is so important as you know, as is staying warm and dry. I also admire your courage in hiking this route at this moment, and for not giving up when you couldn’t pitch the tent as well as you wanted. Brava!! 😊 Inclement weather can be so tough on us physically, mentally and emotionally. I’m glad you have Otto and Alex to keep you company. I hope there are sunny days ahead!

[@ellihikes]

Thank you so much for the kind words and encouragement - that means a lot! I think I didn't eat enough on the first days which made things a bit harder for sure :)

[@gerardgeometre1862]

My god, a really big challenge and physical achievement. Under the adverse circumstances, it will probably help to imagine that things even could get worse and that there is always hope that you are able to continue a little bit further on your way. Keep on Elli and " Buen Camino"😊

[@sr6001]

Bless! The weather has been pretty awful recently and no matter where you walk it’s sooo muddy. Getting really excited for my own trip with my dog in a few weeks time when we follow the same route. Just wondering how you go about cleaning a drying Otto before he gets into the tent when it’s this muddy. My dog has the same rain jacket but his underside still gets filthy and when camping we won’t have the normal luxiuries we have at home for cleaning him down. 🐶 😊

[@ellihikes]

Thank you for following along! Yes, it's so so wet everywhere right now, really hoping that the weather improves soon :) Yes, it's the same with Otto's jacket as he's so close to the ground 😅 If there's water around, I wash the dirt off and dry him with a lightweight towel that I always bring for him. When there's no water, I just use the towel by itself and I have a small rubber brush to brush out sand. I get most of it out this way.... hope you're having a great hike 😊

[@RegEdmunds]

I notice that you have used two tents in your videos, when you get the chance, there's no hurry in my request, can you consider offering a 'compare and contrast' video about them, please.

[@ellihikes]

My other tent is the Big Agnes Copper Spur 1, a free-standing tent. I got it mainly so that I can use it (mainly in Germany) for open shelters where i can't use pegs... but I haven't used it extensively or in really high winds yet as I prefer the Durston. It's just convenient for when I know I'll have a hard time using pegs because it can go up without them and will still stand...

[@Daytona2]

I feel for you Ellie & Otto The irony of you wearing trainers, and coming from Germany, where they make great high sided walking boots 😉 Who's Alex ? Lochan na Maoil Dhuinne looks like a terrible place for a campsite in all but the best weather. I wonder if they chose the worst place on purpose ? You'll know more about pine trees than me, Elli, but my southern English experience is that the tops get twisted/snapped/shattered off in gales and snow and are one of the more dangerous trees to be under.

[@Randolf4475]

In times of waterproof socks and lightweight trail running shoes that also dry faster, leather hiking boots have a hard time. I really like both types of shoes and can choose depending on the conditions.

[@Daytona2]

@@Randolf4475 I wear both types and use Sealskinz on occasion, too, and my Meindl Borneo + Smartwool socks combo never get more than damp and dry out more quickly. They win easily in comfort stakes in wet, muddy conditions like these. Leather and lack of waterproof liner is the key. Waterproof socks lack breathability so are not appropriate for more than temporary use, getting wet from my own sweat. My Innov8 Roclite 295s get saturated and then take longer than my boots to dry.

[@Randolf4475]

@@Daytona2 Ah, very interesting. Unfortunately, I sweat a lot on my feet, so after a few hours they are as wet as after a little rain :/. I like to wear my Meindl boots in the forest and the leather shoe polish also smells very well :)

[@ellihikes]

Hahahaha :) for the comfort and fit and the weight, I still prefer my trail runners.... they dry out so so quickly. It's just not great putting on wet shoes in the morning 😅🫣 these first minutes until my feet start drying them when walking are not great 🤣 I met Alex when we both did the SWCP 2 years ago and randomly ended up on the same campsite 😊 True about the campsite now that I think about it... it's very exposed. But the rest of the shore of the loch is either not flat enough or overgrown or boggy or there are campsites there already.... probably the best they could offer given the terrain... the trees looked ok though, well 'maintained' from what I could see :)

[@maxvidal6884]

Hi Ellie, i see you use trail runners, how do you manage your feet in really wet weather ? Im doing the GGW in a couple of weeks and using trail runners for the first time but im concerned about be having wet feet fir a week 😂

[@ellihikes]

Hi :) I'm just accepting that my feet are going to get wet at some point 🤣 but: If it's just rain/puddles, trail runners dry out pretty quickly with your body heat (usually within 1 hour). If it's "deeper'/more water (bogs, etc.), I use waterproof socks (sealskinz). They wet through after a while, but keep my feet warm at least. And I'm carrying one pair of socks that will always be dry that I change into at night (only wearing it for sleeping). Putting wet socks back on in the morning isn't great, but it gets better once you start walking and your feet warm up....

[@maxvidal6884]

@@ellihikes AHH, thank you for the quick reply. Do you treat your feet in the evening with talc for example ? Love your adventures by the way🙂

[@ellihikes]

No, I don't do anything specific (didn't feel the need so far), except for cleaning them and drying them thoroughly :)

[@maxvidal6884]

@@ellihikes Thanks again for the advice Elli, much appreciated 👌

[@frosty_soda]

Are you usung a gopro?

[@ellihikes]

I'm using the DJI Osmo Action 4 :)

[@RichardMathews-gv7lb]

Is that the Kakwa 55 Ellie?

[@ellihikes]

Yes, the Kakwa 55 (size S) :)

[@RichardMathews-gv7lb]

@@ellihikes thanks looking to replace exped sack so it’s on my shopping list👍