Thunder Mesa Locomotive Story: No 7 - Frank Thomas

Thunder Mesa Mining Company's locomotive No. 7 is an 0-4-2 Porter named in honor of Disney animator Frank Thomas. Follow along to see how I upgrade this stock On30 Bachmann engine with custom decals, paint, details, and a new "Big Thunder" style laser cut cab. Complete step-by-step how to's on decaling and custom cab assembly. Note that this video does not cover the electronics of the Bachmann Porter.
Custom decals: www.cedarleafc...
Micro Set/ Micro Sol: www.micromark....
Thanks for watching, amigos!
Dave
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Al music courtesy KZbin Audio Library, attribution given where available.
"Country Cue 1" courtesy of Audionautix, licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Artist: audionautix.com/
"Jazz Me Blues" - E's Jammy Jams, KZbin Audio Library
"Darktown Strutters Ball" - E's Jammy Jams, KZbin Audio Library

[@chrislambert5249]

Great craftsmens ship!

[@frankbernard6819]

Great video.

[@montemullen2801]

I appreciate your love of Disney trains.

[@jeff9104]

Great job !

[@rjl110919581]

thankyou great detail video

[@ddyodaman5515]

Well Done!

[@normanrowe2831]

Frank would be happy with that.

[@ModelRailroadCardStock]

Many thanks for your "detailed" assembly explanations! I'm just planning my On30 layout, and tomorrow will by buying 2 Porters. Look forward to upgrading the cab with this kit.

[@alanrogers5106]

Very nice, Dave!!!

[@maxcorey8144]

The gold lettering looks great with the gold pin striping.

[@ericsainte290]

A small trick to make the carrier film of decals invisible : varnish the area first with gloss varnish, apply decal, then varnish satin or matt to seal the decal in place. This works for my military models as well as my trains in OO and HO. I also use the Ammo by Mig decal softener to have the decal follow every crease and dimple before sealing the decal in place with varnish.

[@benpiffero]

I really enjoyed watching you create #7 from that blank Bachmann canvas. This was a really awesome video, and enjoyed seeing your processes. Thank you!

[@williamdickman7917]

That new cab looks much nicer than the b-mann cab...good job, Dave.

[@railwaykangaroo6196]

I agree on how decals are stressful. I don't know about you but I prefer to use stickers, something I'm pretty sure most modelers won't recommend. But these are some nice tips, I might use these tips for my trains.

[@gsigs]

When I saw the title of the video I wondered why you would name a locomotive after White Sox slugger Frank Thomas. But now, as Emily Litella would say, "never mind!"

[@davevan8864]

Another great how to!!!! As a decal manufacture of 40+ years I have two things to ad to the way I do decals. I use a stiff paint brush to act as a squeegee to remove as much decal glue from the carrier film....much less 'silvering'. Also I have used Walthers Solvaset from day one. It is strong but I find it to be the best as far as getting decals to conform. Thanks

[@toddainsworth795]

Nice video and decal demo. I have applied wet transfer decals on numerous loco bashes and have been relying on dull coat overspray to alleviate the shiny decal film prior to applying a semigloss overcoat. Anyway, next time I'm going to also use Microsol, thanks for the tip. Quick tip, if the decals do not set correctly, rip, develop bubbles etc let them dry and they are easily removed with masking tape.( drafting tape or dots to avoid removing paint, work best), easier than decal remover solution,, less stress! Like your cab. with the reconfigured engineer. Thanks for sharing.

[@pbyfr]

Microsol is mainly needed when the surface isn't plain (rivets, panel lines, etc.), but then it should create the wrinkles to be able to conform the decal. The important thing is to never touch a Microsol wrinkled decal, when dry, the wrinkles would have disappear. For making the decal disappear, a glossy surface and the prior layer of Microset are the most important. But not all decal are the same quality, some are very thick and will always be visible.

[@d.l.hemmingway3758]

Dave I am looking at developing the LC&W as an excursion Railway in Kansas. I just found there is an actual Lost Creek in Kansas by searching Google Maps. Now on Tuesday my first locomotive arrives, it will be a Bachmann analog version of the Colorado Mining Baldwin 2-6-0 Mogul. I like the way you modify stock equipment to give it your railroad's look.

[@christopherdahle9985]

I wish these little locmotives were, as you said, "ubiquitous." I wonder if they will ever be produced again?

[@chriskodani2543]

It's 6 months later, and most model locomotive production is still at a halt. I hope that better days are ahead.

[@crockett11000]

Cool little engines, but wish Bachmann put flywheels in them!

[@paulreinhardt6052]

How do you prevent the artist chalks from coming off when you pick up or clean the engine?

[@madeinyorkshire52]

Oh and I also meant to ask you - is Crescent Creek Models still operating - only I noticed that your web domain name is just parked at the moment; and I couldn’t seem to access your shop on your Facebook page?

[@ThunderMesaStudio]

Jake and I dissolved Crescent Creek Models a few years ago, All of the old stock has been sold through. Jake has indicated he might do something with it again in the future.

[@madeinyorkshire52]

Hi Dave - watching your videos is always such an inspiration; although can be a bit soul destroying at times comparing the quality of your work to a relative beginner like me! I’m just curious - did you spray the locomotive with a Matt varnish afterwards to seal the chalks you used during weathering - to prevent any rubbing off when the loco is being handled? I’ve seen so many videos where people have weathered locomotives with chalks and weathering powders - but have made no comment afterwards about how they sealed it! Just as you have done 😂 … I am loathed to use the varnish because I understand it does impact the look of all the weathering work - and despite careful masking, the risk of the varnish getting where you don’t want it. I’m halfway through building of Banta long cab conversion for my Porter 042, so it’s very timely I watched this today. ⛏🧨⛏🇬🇧

[@ThunderMesaStudio]

Yes, I use a clear matt finish, taking care not to spray the wheels or electrical contacts.

[@pbyfr]

Nice model and nice cab. But Porter weren't common in Europe, and wood cab even less. So it wouldn't be adequate on my french layout.

[@kenlynch6332]

🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂

[@maxcorey8144]

U.B. Bold has no piston rods, side rods or valve gear. That always bugged me.

[@WheelchairGuyHobbyChannel]

Sgt. Phil Esterhaus