Tilting Trikes Part 7 - Recumbent velomobile project sheet metal parts. A quick update on progress.

Рет қаралды 11,052

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 27

@bosanquet123 4 жыл бұрын

I have really been enjoying your series. I like that fact that you are doing incredible work without fancy tools or workshop. Keep up the great work and am looking forward to the finished project.

@hobbymachinist 2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I just love it.. you're doing the great job... speicially with wood,, plywood,,, amazed me.. good jog...

@zico3239 4 жыл бұрын

very enjoyable to watch and imagining h0w it runs and tilt in the coners

@cuandotubetube 4 жыл бұрын

Greetings from México. I´m learning about building a prototype for school ;) .

@MetalMachineShop 4 жыл бұрын

Cool! Good luck with it.

@dan8718 4 жыл бұрын

Great to see the progress. Eagerly following the project!

@creativecityis 4 жыл бұрын

Was planning on cutting metal with an angle grinder, thank goodness I saw this video first 😅 I also appreciate the simplistic yet super solid ball Bearing replacement. Keep up the good work 👍

@MetalMachineShop 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! There will be some angle grinding in the next instalment!

@charliethewanderer6872 3 жыл бұрын

@@MetalMachineShop Love your project . What size of Oilite bushes (bearings) was used ? Thanks.

@MetalMachineShop 3 жыл бұрын

@@charliethewanderer6872 hi, they are 10mm bore, 13mm OD and about 15mm long.

@charliethewanderer6872 3 жыл бұрын

@@MetalMachineShop Thanks. Great carbon tie rods.

@koustubhheblikar4693 4 жыл бұрын

You the best sir !!!!

@marksadventures3889 4 жыл бұрын

Good stuff, i think I might follow your model and just use aluminium box in place of the wood. Do you have a plan/schematic of the design for download please? I'm also thinking of using a lot of carbon fibre where load issues aren't crucial and weight can be cut, I was going to use Corex for the shell - monocoque but have decided on carbon fibre instead, although i will be using Corex for the trailer to go with and other parts. As I'm also going for the electric assist option I will be building a motor section and battery/ electrics box as well (waterproofed to 4000hs - a friend who designs tents etc is advising me there). I'm interested in shock absorption and such for the rear and front. I also want more clearance from the road and i thought, 24" x 1.75-2" fore and 38" x 4" Rear wheels to get that height. Any thoughts? I can loom the electrics myself and have begun collecting parts and fittings; the dreaded lurgy has stopped me using a pal's garage to build at the moment. Great videos, btw. Thanks

@MetalMachineShop 4 жыл бұрын

Hi, thanks for the comments! I don’t have plans available yet as the design has not been road tested. My final version post-prototype will probably be carbon fibre. I looked at different wheel sizes during the design process and concluded that smaller is better. This is because they are lighter, give better clearance for steering, give more space inside the trike (rear wheel) and keep them overall length down. I settled on 20in wheels as the best compromise, smaller wheels would look ridiculous!

@markdavison7893 4 жыл бұрын

Ignore the ramblings below. Once assembled the faces of the lugs the inner pivots brackets attach to are probably enough to hold their shape once assembled............... Really enjoying this build. Are you sure 1.5mm sheet is going to hold its shape? Especially the inner pivots as they seem very long. Excuse the terminology that follows as its probably not correct, but have you considered the loads resulting from hitting a pot hole with a single wheel or jamming on the brakes hard (assuming you'll be running disks)? Particularly sheer along the longitudinal axes of the trike. Bending moments induced where they meet the wishbones looks like it would cause them to bend at your folds. I'm sure they'll be fine in tension, but you'll also get compression and bending moments. AreThese seem to be a weak link in comparison to the rest of the build. . .........

@MetalMachineShop 4 жыл бұрын

I think they will be ok, but time will tell. Some extra strength is afforded by the pivot bearings when bolted up. I could weld on some extra gussets or similar if they prove to be a problem in practice. Looking at the suspension mounting brackets on cars I am reasonably reassured as they are not as thick as you expect. I would have done some stress calculations if this was not a relatively quick and dirty prototype.

@antoniskaloterakis7996 3 жыл бұрын

Hello , it looks great your woodworking skills are quite as good as your maching skills . Something confuses me at your design , the upper arm is one piece attachet to the center line of the bike and the lower is two arms , attached at an offset of the centerline , how will you calculate the tie rod length ? its supposed to be equal on the front view of the bike to the arms length so its creates an arc of equal radius with the arms and thats how you avoid bumb steer which is lean steer in our case , will you choose the upper arm length or the lower arm length or an average? I used to design mine with two one piece arms but I will change it now to a two piece arms because i think its easier to achive ackermann due shorter tie rods it requires given that the length of the tie rod has to remain the same with the arm length I think maybe the two piece thing is more flexible but maybe I am wrong .

@MetalMachineShop 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, it's quite simple in fact - the length of the lower arms is exactly half that of the upper arm, so the the length of the tierods is the same as the lower arms or half the length of the upper arm. The main reason for offsetting the lower arms is to allow for the width of the steering bellcrank and to get the Ackerman geometry to work properly.

@АлексейТучак-м4ч 3 жыл бұрын

I wish you good luck with your project, but I fear that part at 0:05 will bend under load I suggest reinforcing it with a steel sheet ~parallel to the screen at that timecode