T2W Maintenance Series: Valve Adjustment (version 2)

[@daddywarbucks9607]

I just used this as a reference to do my own valve adjustment. Thanks for the details and time you must have put into this. Its perfect. If you need to do a valve adjustment on your KLR 650 this is what to use it will save you a bunch of money. I have a 2013 KLR and it was spot on. The only thing I would add is dont give up when its time to remove the valve cover. Just keep trying to get the angle right and push it towards the front of the bike as much as you can. Again thanks T2W. i suscribed and liked this video. Its the least I can do.

[@Tim2Wheels]

I'm glad this was helpful. Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@borghi]

7 years later and you are still helping out folks with your excellent instructions. Thanks so much Tim. So glad these videos are still available!!

[@Bjawae]

Remarkable amount of detail. The book is a cold teacher. I appreciate you && this inspires me to archive.

[@michaelgb206]

great video...I was able to swap shims without removing the cam gears, cam chain and cam chain guide. After removing the cam bearing bolts, I was able to lift the camshaft high enough to switch out the shims. Everything stayed in place, therefore the timing remained the same. Maybe I just got lucky. Once the shims were loosened from the buckets, I used a magnet to remove the shim.

[@unclequack5445]

Me to I used a magnet to get them out and in.

[@rustytanks]

Magnet saves so much time, best way to do it

[@mth32871]

I don't even have a KLR (yet), but I've enjoyed watching these maintenance videos to see what I'll be in for when I get one. I love the detail that you go into, that's really going to help when I have to do these things myself. Thank you.

[@peterschryver]

Thanks for posting videos like this Tim! I am purchasing a 2007 KLR with 9,000mi on it from a buddy who just doesn’t ride anymore. There is not a scratch on it, and I know he maintains his equipment meticulously. Your videos have given me confidence to work on the cycle myself. I read they are one of the simplest to repair, and your video certainly takes the mystery out of what’s involved in the way of tools and expertise. 👍

[@francof1635]

Tim, thanks for all the great videos you have produced for the KLR 650. These videos are a big reason I recently purchased a used 2013 KLR650. I look forward to maintaining my bike with the help of your Maintenance Series Videos. best Frank.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks for the comment Frank. I'm pleased the videos are helpful. Enjoy your KLR!

[@zzskylarkzz]

This is guiding me currently through the job thanks for the well put together tutorial!

[@rabbbie99]

You only needed to order 2 shims. A 2.70 and a 2.55 instead of 4 of them. You already had a 2.70 and a 2.60 that you could move to a different valve to correct the spacing.

[@TyProvosty]

Your video is EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you. I am immensely grateful. Will be doing my valve clearances on my 2008 KLR in the next few days.

[@coachp7486]

Ditto for me and my ‘08. Thank you Tim. So we’ll done. Appreciate the time and detail taken. 👍🏽

[@ericswoyer4148]

Excellent detail and a steady camera. Infinitely superior to so much of what I've found on KZbin. Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort to create these. Wish I'd found you earlier.

[@tommycawley8755]

awesome video, im getting ready to do this myself and this video gives me confidence. Just to clarify for everyone else I checked my manual and the clearances shown at 18:35 should be 0.15-0.25 mm for the exhaust and 0.10-0.20 mm for the intake.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Tommy, You are correct. The graphic in the video has a typo. Thanks for asking. ALWAYS got to the manual :) - You just can't trust these guys on KZbin :) Thanks for watching

[@fwysngrns]

Excellent video. Great detail, commentary and camera work. Only two things I would note: 1) When I do the valves I take them to the high end of spec. As you noted, they will only get tighter with time. 2) Looks like you could have reused a couple of the shims and saved yourself a few bucks. No big thing. Cheers!

[@Tim2Wheels]

fwysngrns - Both good points. It is a good practice to go to high end of spec. I plan to check frequently so I was comfortable with mid spec. Yes, I thought about reusing two of them, and could have, but just bought 4 new shims. Thanks for the comments and for watching.

[@LTVoyager]

fwysngrns I was thinking the same thing. I assume the flat Kawasaki shims at pretty cheap so no big deal. However, with my K1200LT, the buckets are $22 each and the engine has 16 of them so I use a spreadsheet to do the calculations and determine the minimum number of buckets to buy. I am watching Tim's videos to learn more about the KLR as I am considering buying one to have a smaller bike to ride locally. It is refreshingly simple compared to my BMW.

[@chrisbehl2295]

thanks Tim for this, just watched and you gave me the confidence to try myself. I've worked on cars for many years and done things such as brakes and changed spark plugs but never had experience in a top end before. I didn't drop anything down the abyss and all my tolerances ended up in spec after new shims, they all started out low. Hopefully it'll run better now!

[@adambullard6274]

All of your videos are very well done! Thank you for the time and effort you have put into them. I used your KLR chain and sprocket replacement video yesterday as a reference when I changed mine. Very helpful! Thank you.

[@borghi]

Tim, another awesome video. I ended up with all 4 of mine out of spec (tight) at 15,000 miles. I found out it is possible to remove the shims without removing the cams or the cam chain. By removing the keepers and chain tensioner, it is easy to "tilt" the camshafts from the RH side of the bike to allow removal of shims. I used a small long handle magnet and offset tweezers to get the shims out. Very easy and saved time realigning and assembling guard.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Ron Oehler - Hey Ron, thanks for sharing this info. That is good to know.

[@snyamathi]

Hey Tim - great video. One small error, the infographic shows the clearance range as 0.1 - 0.02mm when it should be 0.1 - 0.2mm though I think you do a good job of explaining that verbally. Thanks for making this! edit: I see someone else pointed this out previously and you had responded to them.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Suneil Nyamathi - Hey, thanks for the comment. Yes, you are correct. I have made a correction in the description. I need a new editor :) Thanks for watching.

[@stringtwister7654]

Great video Tim, very detailed and informative I checked my valves at 5000 miles and was right in the middle of spec range but I couldn't find a good video showing how to do the shims with your video I think I can do the job now. Thanks again!

[@Tim2Wheels]

String Twister - Thanks for watching. Best of luck with your project.

[@SP-pb4qb]

Fantastic and very informative video. Thank you so much for the effort you put into making this video TIm. The knowledge and confidence that you help to inspire will carry on for a lifetime of projects!

[@tomsimon5592]

When I worked in MC shops in the late 1970's, it was acceptable to reuse the customers old shims. Often by mixing/matching, the mechanic reduced the number of new shims to sell the customer. In your case, you could have reused (2) of the shims be relocating them, nd purchased only (2) new ones. Great tutorial BTW, I love the detail, and methodical approach. And yes, occasionally a guy (could have been me) would allow the cam chain to drop into the case 8-O

[@dean2287]

Really good tutorial. Made the job easy, and I'm confident that I did it properly. Two of my existing shims were almost unreadable, maybe another good reason not to reuse shims. Thanks a lot, subscribed!

[@ntme6506]

Thanks Tim for the video. Definitely time to buy a torque wrench. Two clicks of the wrist is not good enough for this kind of work. I can't wait any long so time to dive in. Thanks

[@AT2021Rocker]

Just did my valves and your video was invaluable!

[@shikanofromhere3240]

Thank you very much for an unbelievable set of detailed videos. After watching your valve check and adjustment videos I now feel confident that I can do this myself. Awesome videos and well done!

[@Tim2Wheels]

Shikano Fromhere Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad this was helpful. Thanks for watching.

[@slipinlizard9394]

Very clear and thorough instruction. Thank you for making this video!

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.

[@dannyjack982]

Hey Tim, I just completed my second valve adjustment project. This video you produced was such a great help. Thank you so much for your service. If there's a way to Paypal you a few $$ let me know. Thank you again. (It's not that difficult if you take your time, the key is to not get frustrated and be careful of dropping any spacers or screws into the abyss.) I did the MC mod and it seems to be working well on the first test ride, the engine feels like it has more pickup and response.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Hi DJ, Thanks for the comment. There is a PayPal link in the description of the video ( www.paypal.me/tim2wheels). I appreciate the feedback and the support.

[@alexbreeze4668]

fantastic youtube channel you're running good sir. because of these videos I'm keeping my klr for a long time. plus i save money from the mechanics

[@Tim2Wheels]

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the comment and for watching

[@davidcole4494]

thanks for such a thorough video! very helpful.

[@andreasober2740]

Would you recommend changing the rubber gasket for the head cover? Thank you for being so detailed. I really like the way you explain things.

[@frostbitevinnie]

Thanks Tim! I have my KLR torn down so though to adjust valves. You ROCK!

[@daveonarush]

I'll give it a go! Thanks, excellent instructions, much appreciated.

[@clintreba]

Great video! rebuilt my 2008 klr using a lot of your videos. Keep the videos coming

[@tomsimon5592]

Additional suggestions: re-instal shims numbers down, facing the buckets, so the next guy can read them, and the cam lobes don't rub the numbers off. Also, before buttoning the entire thing up, after the cam caps are torqued but before the cam chain cover get reinstalled, spin the engine over several time be hand, spark plug out, and re-check the valve lash. Occasionally theirs too much oil between the shim and bucket, the shim settles into place, and is a good place to pause in case you goofed your math or got a mis-marked shim.

[@derekdreischarf3415]

He covered both of those items

[@TheLost4rmzone]

These videos are a treasure, thank you!

[@jpskiskate2000]

My klr has 20k miles and never had the valve cover off. Glad I checked the valves because they were way off!

[@Maxi-hs5nk]

Great work Tim, Not sure if you did however a good idea to oil the cam lobes as well not just the journals, Also a little oil on the cam cap bolt threads so there is less friction for a more accurate torque setting. Nice work mate!

[@rontimber8566]

Thank you for the video, much appreciated.

[@davidhadley3139]

Your videos are awesome. I followed step by step and ran into a problem. I got to bottom to TDC. The intake cam is perfectly level. The exhaust is about 10 degrees above where it should be. My thought is to take it all apart and align the cams then check the shims??? Thanks for the help.

[@sydneybaumgartner9801]

Excellent as usual! I'll do this project myself when due again. Thanks for the detailed instruction. Merry Christmas!

[@Tim2Wheels]

Sydney Baumgartner - Hi Sydney, thanks for the comment and for watching. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

[@ntme6506]

Hi Tim, In the middle of this procedure and I wanted to double check my valve clearance plan with you. Also, if I leave a valve clearance alone, should I still replace the valve shim with the same size or just leave what is there? EX-L - Old CLR = 0.18mm EX-L - Old shim = 2.40mm EX-L - New shim = 2.40mm EX-L - New CLR = 0.18mm EX-R - Old CLR = 0.25mm EX-R - Old shim = 2.40mm EX-R - New shim = 2.45mm EX-R - New CLR = 0.20mm IN-L - Old CLR = 0.23mm IN-L - Old shim = 2.50mm IN-L - New shim = 2.55mm IN-L - New CLR = 0.18mm IN-R - Old CLR = 0.20mm IN-R - Old shim = 2.55mm IN-R - New shim = 2.60mm IN-R - New CLR = 0.15mm

[@weets69]

Tim, luv your vids. Very very nice attention to detail. Bummed that you left the KLR community for that BMW😁

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks Weets, I'm still a big fan of the KLR. Always will be. Thanks for watching.

[@martinkastan4053]

Thank you, what a great detailed video

[@chrisdieck]

Awesome tutorials man! keep it up. Amazing attention to detail

[@henryhawk7038]

I would, when torqueing the cam caps, criss cross the torqueing on each cam and start out at half the rating. When you torque one end down to specified torque you lift up on the opposite end. Then when you pull the other end down and torque you have change to some extent the setting on the other end. Just saying, terrific video and CHEERS!🇺🇸

[@Tb0n3]

The reason you cross torque is on larger covers it keeps it from warping, but with two bolt cam caps there's no way to cross torque because there's only 2 boots on each cap. The head isn't going to be affected by it.

[@vinnyg2605]

One note do you see any down side to what I did explained below. That made my first time doing valve adjustment. I found it extremely helpful to take some nail polish and mark on the cam gear to the cam chain link from cam gear to chin and then I made two marks on both sides of the chain cover on the chain basically where you could first see the cam chain on each side of the cam chain cover. I made a marks on each side of cover and on the cam gear I made two marks on cam gear called E1 and E2 as I did them about 45 degrees apart. It sure made it super easy to reinstall cam and chain right where they were so I did not have to what you were referring to tedious adjusting cam on chain one or two teeth at a time, all I had to do was to install cams and put chain with the red nail polish on both the chain and sprocket of cam gear lined up and it made it a speedy way to get the cams arrows right back where I had them, I also found it very helpful to buy 8 location pins from Eagle Mike .49 cents each and that also made the instal of cam caps super easy as maybe the older ones got slightly out of round, I don't know why but as soon I removed the 8 old location pins, along with Eagle Mike super stronger cam cap bolts, plus being TRQ'd at least once to 106 inch lbs the stock bolts had stretched as bolts do when touqured plus the fact they are stronger and just a slight bit longer than the ones on my bike anyway, my first "guess" as to why that might be the case is a few more threads of grip on Eagle Mike, as we all know his products are TOP OF THE LINE as his customer service. I think everyone that has done business with E.M. Has come away with the same great feeling knowing A) you have the best product available or made B) E.M.'s customer service is 2nd to none! C) Shipping speed is almost if not always same day as ordered, I know I have never been treated better by any supplier / manufacture period. I am sure all KLR guys know he is far and away the best resource for all things KLR and don't worry if you do not see what you want on his website, as I learned that he provided me with items I needed or wanted. So just e-mail or call Mike, and as busy as he is I have always heard back even one Sunday evening in the summer I was impressed yet again.

[@SNxr400r]

Another Excellent Job Tim....I will have no worries to do this when the time comes.....Keep up the good Vids!!! Merry Christmas and Safe Riding~~~

[@Tim2Wheels]

SNK513 - Thanks for the comment and for watching. Merry Christmas to you as well.

[@ianferrier235]

Thanks again tim i watched it again because im going to be doing it as soon as it warms ☝.Ill probably watch it again lol seriously great video

[@6806goats1]

No KLR in my stable yet, reviewing valve adjustment as a determining factor among bikes I am considering to add to my list. So far, the BMW GS is the simplest but that bike comes after I am past the noob stage of dirt riding. The KLR seems to come in at spot 2. So how much noise would be created running valve clearance to the max looseness? Wouldn't be as bad as piston slap or rod knock, but maybe a little ticking. Like running exhaust to .25mm. intake to .20mm and giving valve recession a bit more time before the shims need to replaced again. By that time it's possible that the valves need serviced. Not sure what the specs are. Everything is so close together it's doubtful that the spring cups could be depressed to allow the shims to be removed without pulling the cams. Did that method on my 1976 KZ900 and was able to move shims around or trade for the correct clearance. Total backyard stuff, bike in the kitchen. Cut the tines off of a fork, heated it up on the stove to bend to an angle that made it easier to fit between the cam base shaft and spring cup. Rotated the engine until the lobe opened the valve wide open then walked the cam until there was enough clearance to get the shim out. Think they sell a tool for that but probably not usable in this situation. TMI, just remembered things I did 40+ years ago. Great series, thanks.

[@naestrebloc9849]

Your video is so helpful! Where in your clearance range would you prefer to be, regarding tolerance? It’s a big range. Mine is a mostly street, never pinned, no crazy trail use, medium rpm range, KLR 650. OEM for intake is .10 to .20, exhaust is .15 to 25. I was shooting for .15 intake and .20 exhaust, but nobody talks about preference, longevity experience and why they chose that.

[@KnexFour]

Fantastic videos Tim, really not that hard with your excellent guide but I made the horrible mistake of dropping a bolt down into the lower part of the engine -_- Added a new generator gasket and rotor bolt to my valve shim order since I have to tear that part of the engine apart now too, doh! At least I've done that once with the doohickey so shouldn't be too bad, I just hope I find the bolt down there. Couldn't find it with my light and magnet grabber

[@Tim2Wheels]

Yes, that is a pain when that happens, but it does happen sometimes. It's not too bad to open the bottom on that side. It sounds like you have it under control. Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@MrLightning54]

Excellent video! What keeps the timing chain from loosing it's phasing on the bottom / crank sprocket when removing the cams allowing that much slack into the timing chains? I see the zip tie holds it from dropping down, but just curious what keeps it in contact with the lower sprocket? Thanks again for the very helpful video!

[@rickrobbins2836]

Hi Tim it’s a long time since you did this video (great job by the way). Hoping you still might see this question on the KLR valve adjustment. Is it strictly necessary to completely remove the cam chain tensioner or can you just remove the centre bolt and spring before removing the cams? That way the tensioner should be in the same position it was before and you don’t risk damaging the tensioner gasket. Am I missing something? Thanks, Rick

[@orical2832]

Excellent video tutorial! Well done and THANK YOU!

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks for the comment and for watching!

[@GVMotoring]

Hey Tim this video and your previous video on the inspection element are both absolutely incredible! Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos! I wanted to ask, when re-setting the cam chain tensioner, when you tighten the 12mm bolt in the middle after resetting it, will it automatically set itself to the proper tension? The video goes to installing the rear cam covers from that point so I want to make sure I'm not missing any steps. Thanks again!

[@BLUESBOYBENFIELD]

Hi Tim, great video…..very helpful thanks……something is bothering me about my bike….It’s a gen 1 klr from 1987….I’m in France so it must be a European model. I’m just finishing the EM doohickey and decided to check valve clearance……the guard/bridge that you removed from over the cam chain, between the the pulleys…..this part is not in my my bike. I’ve done some research using engine diagrams online…..it appears that this part was added to later models. Are you able to confirm this please?……I don’t like having parts missing…….

[@elwood62]

Awesome presentation. Thanks

[@DouglasU1983]

great video! greetings from Peru!

[@crockett11000]

Also looks like the best time to remove and replace the spark plug too!..

[@cliffspicer6555]

The two videos you did on this topic are amazing Tim. Thanks. I don't' have a lot of mechanical experience but I followed your video and the service manual and had to change 3 of the 4 shims and it worked out just fine. Well, sort of. I took my time and it rides fine but there are two issues I am just noticing. I can see after a couple of hours there must be a small oil leak in the head. I cleaned the head, the rubber gasket seems perfect so I installed it again but as you know it is a nightmare how little space you have to get that headcover on or off the bike. I guess it is possible the rubber didn't seat well in one section so I will get the stuff off the bike and try and get it seated better. This is a lot of work to get this done so I figured maybe a small bead of some liquid gasket around the block and then with that and the rubber, it should seal fine. What are your thoughts and if you think the liquid gasket stuff is ok, what do I want to buy? The other issue I had which is small and maybe not related is that the bike normally idles at around 1200-1300 rpm and it went down to around 1000-1100 and required me to increase it slightly to get back to the 1200-1300. Is that anything you think I should worry about?

[@Tim2Wheels]

Hi Cliff, I'm glad the videos were helpful. It's okay to use a bit of sealant on the head gasket. I like to use Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket No. 3 amzn.to/317gD4c It seals great and will not setup hard like others. So if some gets inside the engine oil, it won't break off and clog anything. Very nice stuff to have on hand. As for the idle, I don't think that a real problem. Adjust the idle on the carb to where you like it.

[@cliffspicer6555]

Tim2Wheels I have run into a huge snag Tim that I am hoping you might be able to give me some direction. I mentioned I had a small leak so I put some gasket sealer along the left side where the timing chain is and I am sick about this but I dropped a small rubber seal down there and have no idea how to retrieve it. I am guessing taking the cams and off agin and securing the chain and looking for it may not do it but I am not sure. What options do I have or would you suggest. I covered that area up when taking it apart but didn’t think to do it to just add a little gasket sealer and now disaster has struck. Suggestions ?

[@Tim2Wheels]

@@cliffspicer6555 - since it was a "small" rubber seal, its possible it did not drop too far down. However, usually, items dropped into the ""abyss" as mechanics call that section (where the cam chain is), go all the way down into the bottom-end of the engine. If so, you must drain the oil (or lay the bike on its right side) and remove the bottom-end side cover. Once that is off, you can find and remove what you dropped. It is really not all that bad, just a pain in the butt. -Tim

[@cliffspicer6555]

Tim2Wheels is that the left side of the engine you are referring to Tim? If so I have seen videos on how to change the Doohickey and it like once the oil is drained and the over is off, many items may have to be removed to see the part which I could not find in the top portion and it wasn’t from a lack of trying.

[@duckdesroches]

Tim thanks for the video. I feel like you may have a typo tho changing allowable tolerance. Can you review your chart please. I feel like you have an extra zero on your upper tolerance changing it to be the lower. This makes it that you have adjusted all 4 out of spec. (.025 & .020) I feel like this should be (.25 & .20). ?

[@csiautodetail]

super video, thank you! very detail.

[@AzMtnThumper]

Appreciate the detail. Well done.

[@Tim2Wheels]

t8erzandcheez - Thanks for watching.

[@kawaz1ooosx]

Good video good information thank you.I think I can apply all procedure for my Versys 650 too?

[@leisureisleboatclub3156]

Thanks for a very informative video. What makes the clearance go out of spec? Is it just normal wear? I have just bought a 2011 KLR 650 and was a little concerned to see videos on the "doohickey problem" for the KLR650. Can you tell me what that is all about? Clive

[@sryth1]

Excellent video! Is it better to mic the old shims and use that measurement? The number indicates the shim thickness when they were new, but you mention that they wear, meaning they will be thinner than the number indicates.

[@FredGrabara]

So I wonder As a double check Would it be helpful to count the links when the chain is installed? That is, count the links from one point to another, say from arrow to arrow. then, when reinstalling, verify the same number of links between the arrows to confirm everything is lined up?

[@El_conocimiento_te_hace_libre]

Hi there. I did the valve fitting work. The engine runs very well but the oil consumption has increased. Now it uses twice as much oil as before. Any idea what may have happened? Greetings.

[@montyhenson2664]

Thank you keep up the fine work. I’m not a KLR expert, but I have many years of auto, boat, truck building experience. I’m going through much of this now on a Gen 2 2009, that prior owner had most likely neglected with low oil and/or exhaust cam caps bolts came loose causing camshaft to move around and damaged cylinder head. Found a donor motor but upon inspection it had an intake camshaft cap bolt that had sheared off allowing the intake camshaft to move around enough to again damage cam caps, intake camshaft and cylinder head. Do you know if anyone has ever come up with ability to machine new exact fit cam caps? My head guy sates the cylinder heads can usually be repaired but there is no source for new cam caps. Please let me know if you personally know an shops that can do this. I have OEM manual and most all of this is covered in OEM manual chapter 5, engine top end. Do you have an opinion on Clymer vs. OEM manual? My "best practice" tips when R & R camshafts, cam caps, etc. When you discovered valves need new valve shims and require removal of cam caps and camshafts I personally would have checked cam cap & camshaft tolerances for wear and camshaft run out as per manual specs in OEM manual chapter 5. You have it all apart at this point. A machine shop may be required to accomplish this check/verification (run out). Upon reassembly from my experience use assembly lube (Molly-lube) on all rubbing/friction parts such as cam shims, camshafts, cam caps. OEM manual states to do this too. In addition on reassembly best practice is to install a non-permanent locking agent (blue?) to guide bolts, camshaft cam caps, tensioner bolts, etc. OEM manual states to do this too. As I have seen on two KLR engines it is essential to properly torque cam-cap bolts to spec so they never loosen and allow camshaft to move around.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Hi Monty, I'm not aware of anyone machining new cam caps, but that doesn't mean someone hasn't. Maybe another viewer can help. I wish you the best on you project. Thanks for the comment. -Tim

[@xnihilo1044]

Hi Tim, I have a new ‘23 Traveler. What’s the difference in doing valves with this model? I’ve seen forum posts saying getting to the valves are a real pain. Any plans on doing videos on the new EFI version?

[@koreyhannan9071]

Wow That was amazing. Thank you

[@korbyn49]

I performed a valve adjustment and now my KLR makes a knocking sound and won’t run without the choke. Sound gets worse as it warms up. Check timing several times and it looks correct. Any ideas?

[@fugitivetattoo]

You don't mention some very important things. First you said the cam shaft holders have to be installed when installing the chain tensioner to keep the shafts from wobbling. Then in the next step they are not there and you say the chain cover must be installed before the shaft holders can be installed.. So you installed them to adjust the cams and then removed them again to install chain cover?

[@cliffspicer6555]

Hi Tim, maybe you can help with an issue I am having following your excellent video. I had no problem with the value check and ordered the new valve shins and put it back together but .... I purchased a new head gasket and vacuum oring to make sure I didn’t have any oil leaks but no matter what I do it seems to be leaking oil on the top end. I tightened the bolts to 8nm as the manual said but I can not see where the leak is because I have to get the gas tank on to run the bike then by the time so take it back off I can’t see where it is leaking from. Can you offer any suggestions ? As well, the Oring gaskets for the head bolts have two distinctive sides. One has what looks like a metal ring and the other a strait rubber side . I can not figure out what side the oring goes on so so have been placing the side with the metal ring towards the bolt and the rubber only side towards the head. Is this right ? I’d appreciate any help you could offer

[@Tim2Wheels]

Hi Cliff, I'll try to help. for the leaking head gasket, or valve cover gasket, make sure the surfaces are clean and smooth (free of any old gasket pieces or debris). If it does not seal, there could be some slight irregularity and you can use a good gasket sealant in addition to the head gasket. I like this stuff (amzn.to/317gD4c) as it won't setup hard or rubbery and get into the oil system. I'm not clear on the other o-ring you are referring to. do you have a part number for that one?

[@cliffspicer6555]

@@Tim2Wheels Thanks, Tim. I honestly don't think it is leaking at the gasket but either the vacuum hose that goes into the head beside the spark plug or the head bolts themself. The issue is I can't see if the gas tank is on and when I take it off to inspect I can't tell. Do you think if I put gas in a Gatoraid bottle and drilled a hole in the lid and put the fuel line in the hole I could run the bike long enough to see what is happening? The part I was referring to is RING-O,HEAD COVER BOLT 92055-0195. The two sides of the ring are different but not even in the Clymer manual can I tell. In fact the manual is incorrect for my 2017 KLR650. It shows the O-ring and a washer on the head bolts but that is not how it came from the factory or on the OEM parts diagrams for my bike. Any help would be greatly appreciated Tim.

[@glenlarsen8496]

Thanks for your efforts however you skipped over use of feelr gauges....also missed marking of cams and orientation of cam shims in video was confusing

[@1silvervespa]

A simple Permanent marker mark your cams front & Rear . the ink wont hurt anything . Make life easy.

[@RayCawthorn]

What l did not see on your video is how you removed the two long bolts on the left side of the cam chain cover. Its too tight to use thumb + forefinger to lift them out.

[@tompowell2253]

I used your video to check mine, thanks for the detailed run through. I do have one question though. All of the valves are middle of spec except the left exhaust. It is still in spec at .18, but should I replace it now or wait another few thousand miles? I'm currently at 15k

[@sebastienlelong2661]

Great video. One thing I don't understand: while valves rotates, those shims should wear down, right ? Meaning, they would get thinner over time, thus clearance should be higher and higher. I don't understand why valves get tight over time...

[@bowhunterxxx]

The valve seats can wear and then the valve moves up reducing the gap, the shims and cams don't wear much not really measurable.

[@jorgesoberomackenzie9548]

Thanks for the Information, question: when you said the intake limits are (.10 - .020) the maximum gap should be .10mm since .020 is a smaller gap, is that correct? Meaning that you need a thinner spacer. Please let me know

[@larryjanson4011]

did you mike out the true thickness of the shims? as in have they worn thinner than as marked?

[@stanguin1777]

Do you need to re torque head before installing and measuring clearances?

[@MrLightning54]

What's the gizmo on the opposite end of the drive sprocket on the exhaust cam? Does it advance or move back the exhaust cam timing with rpm?

[@AnthonyKirkham-e6j]

Very good,thanks

[@francoisst-gelais761]

Hi Tim. awesome vid as always! Quick one: what does prevent the chain from getting disengaged from the lower gear when it you give it some slack up top? Is there a guide?

[@Tim2Wheels]

Francois St-Gelais Yep, there is a guide in the lower end to prevent the chain from coming off. Thank you Kawasaki! Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@brian_allan_white_solo_music]

Is there anyway you can recommend a different company than Rocky Mountain ATV/MC? I have had nothing but issues with them trying to get my valve shims and their customer service is less to be desired.

[@RedNeckBiker109]

Great part 2!

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks for watching.

[@1silvervespa]

Old egg cartons and Trays are good for organizing parts.

[@bikemancody2752]

Can you make a video on your electrical recepticles? Why you chose what you did and why.

[@Tim2Wheels]

Bikemancody bock - Yes. That is a good idea. I will work on that soon.

[@regs3836]

This is a very helpful video with only a few acceptions, I am sure that I am not the first one to point out that when taking out the shim you should measure to confirm they're marked correctly, and before you put in the new shim double check to make sure they are also marked correctly. Then after rotating the engine and before your valve cover goes back on you should recheck the valve clearances. I have seen many times that shims are marked incorrectly, and or also that I made an error and accidentally put the wrong shim in. Double or triple check at every step. I also think you confused things when you took out the right side intake shim and called it the left.

[@duckwacker8720]

Get the block off plate for the vacuum tube.

[@bobkelly2447]

So Tim...where did you order the new shims from ?

[@Thewarhorse47]

Thanks

[@terry4888]

what a great video

[@indigo196799]

Hi Tim While adjusting my valves and with the cams removed well... I did it, I dropped a camshaft cap aligner in the "abbyss". Checked with a light and I cannot see it, looks like it went down. Do you think opening the left side and removing the flywheel would get me to it?

[@indigo196799]

Removed the rotor and found my runaway part...

[@Thewarhorse47]

Serious question for anyone: So, had all the clearances been in spec, nothing to do. That means the shims don't wear out. When he was done, he needed a 2.70 and a 2.60. He had a used 2.70 and a used 2.60. Is it okay to just use the old shims if they meet your needs? Why didn't he use the old ones?

[@dean2287]

Super helpful

[@Tim2Wheels]

Glad to hear! Thanks for the comment.

[@elton71737678]

Tim, nice video. I noticed one of the new shims was the thickness of one an old shims that was removed. Can the shims be swapped from intake to exhaust? Great videos!

[@Tim2Wheels]

daniel jaram - Yes, they can. I could have used the old shims, but since they are so inexpensive, I just chose to replace all four with new ones.

[@LTVoyager]

Yes, you can reuse the shims if they are in good shape. I do check mine with a mic to ensure they are still at the labeled thickness. Tim’s old 2.70 shim looked a little sketchy. It was a different color which means it was likely an aftermarket shim and may not have been heat treated correctly or have the proper surface finish. I understand why he bought new shims in this case. On my K1200 BMW, it has 16 shims/buckets and they costs $20 each, so I always reuse old buckets when I can. My last valve adjustment still required 4 new buckets at $80 plus shipping, but I was able to reuse 4 of the old ones saving $80 plus shipping. The KLR shims are cheap by comparison and you have only 4. However, I plan to reuse shims on my KLR when it gets to its first valve check mileage. No reason to waste money.

[@johnmaciejewski4]

Good video good information thank you

[@Tim2Wheels]

Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@fred000333]

do you need to change the cam chain tensioner gasket? mine looks like its new so I am wondering if I should change it?

[@Tim2Wheels]

If it is in good condition, then no. I did not change mine.

[@neurozero]

I had mean steakand Vulcan with hydrolic valve adjustment. Should have never sold them. Any dual sport or touring bike with auto valve adjustment