Timber frame for Self Builders - start with Floor Joists

[@peterwalton1502]

Excellent 👏👏

[@halstirrup]

Am your biggest fan mate ! So happy to finally found someone who thinks for them self , dose most work by him self and wants top quality outcomes!

[@build-better-things]

Thanks a lot and I’m always happy to hear from you. Hope everything is going well for you. 🙂

[@phil7309]

Really enjoy your videos. You’re making the art of self building far more realistic. We’re at the planning stage of a timber frame extension on a bungalow and find your advice invaluable. Much appreciated

[@build-better-things]

Thanks for your comment and best of luck with it. Hopefully you’ll find it a rewarding process.

[@imcre8tive1]

I’m so glad you mentioned Oakwoods channel as that makes my question way easier! So I’m looking to adopt this exact method for building an adjoining porch to the front of my house, using rod piles and cladding in composite or timber. I’ve already built a 4x2 leanto shed successfully using Liams build method, but my question is, would this conform to building regulations/fire regulations to use a rod pile system for an adjoining porch? The existing front door will remain in place and a 2nd door will be installed, so I just want to be sure I’m doing everything “by the book” as I’ll be building under permitted development of 3sqm externally, with a flat Epdm roof.

[@build-better-things]

If you’re not creating any new openings in the existing fabric, you’re not within 1m of the boundary and you’re under 8m2 (check the area), you’ve no heating in there, then you probably don’t need a warrant. This just from memory. However it still needs to comply, so insulation and integrity (fire) to current standards. The stuff I’ve quoted is from memory only and I’d need to see it to be sure so don’t take this as advice. If you find you need a building warrant application, you then will require a structural engineer’s certificate or full calculations for your rod piles and walls roof, but having done the calculations on them myself for previous projects, I know you’d have no problem, it’s just a pain to do and an additional cost.

[@joeperman1152]

Love the chill vibes in your videos. Looking to build a garden room but it’s putting in a retaining wall first that is putting me off so interesting seeing what you have done here with similar slopes. Can I ask what posts have been used for the retaining walls there?

[@build-better-things]

Hi and thanks for the kind words. These are galvanised H posts by Durapost. I think this is a far better solution than sleepers. I’ll be making a video about how to do these retaining walls properly soon.

[@joeperman1152]

Great, thanks for the reply. A video on that would be amazing!

[@build-better-things]

You can see it here Dig ground & Retaining Wall for Timber Frame Extension kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKLcmZ-KqpmBp5I

[@thewigtownemporium1971]

Just wonder what your views are on fold over hangers creating problems whe it comes to flooring.

[@build-better-things]

If you mean that they create uneven surface for the flooring, that would only be a concern for me if I was laying finish flooring (say tongue and groove) directly only the joists. These days I’m almost always laying chipboard or particle board before a finished floor, and you don’t see any variation in level with that construction. There’s a number of reasons to use chipboard but the main one is that movement is such a big issue with modern insulation and heating if you’re just using traditional timber flooring. Also battering the hangers into the frame helps.

[@imcre8tive1]

If it helps, I build a shed using this system and the flooring I used was t&g 18mm osb. As it spans over a wide area there isn’t any issue with uneven flooring, as the boards all stitch together to make essentially 1 large solid board floor (when glued together with polyurethane glue)

[@build-better-things]

Thanks for the information.

[@kevocos]

Instagram superstar carpenters seem use screws and paslode nails in every situation, both have their place but for structural work I will only permit pneumatic nailer or ideally hand driven wire nails

[@build-better-things]

I’ve only ever hammered myself but interested to try the nailer.

[@sdevane75]

I think the problem with your timber being too narrow by a few mill might be because its not rough, those joists look planned