Engine Head Gasket / Cracked Head Repair (Toyota 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE ) - Part 7

[@OlafNolle]

Dear Timmy and Sean: As a South African now living “Down Under”, thank you for taking much time and putting the effort into making this tutorial video set - to help others rebuild of their beloved Toyota 5vz-fe engine. This was a truly professional job! Without your dedication, I would have failed at saving my Landcruiser Prado. I am so grateful and wish you both all the best as you selflessly inspire others to do the same!

[@politesob]

Hearing Timmy drop the F bomb really tells that it was a lot of work 😂

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you only knew how much I swear when turning wrenches. Sometimes we leave some of the profanity in because it was fitting to do so. Turning wrenches can be frustrating. Now add filming into the mix and it can get even more frustrating. It's definitely an exercise in patience. But yeah, filming this job was a TON of work.

[@richardsauer599]

Well done! Your videos are very valuable. You and Sean should be proud of what you do. I’m telling you I am going to buy a 20 year old Toyota just because there is now high quality videos on how to keep it going.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks, Richard. You aren't the only one who has told us that. Other guys have also told us that one of the reasons they decided to buy a 3rd Gen 4runner is because of the amount of content we have for them. Happy Wrenching!

[@solosoundlapaz]

The best repair tutorial on the entire planet for a 5VZFE engine. I was afraid to disassemble the motor, but after seeing this well organized tutorial... I will soon. Proud to be your friend, gets a hug from Mexico.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the kind words our Mexican Toyota Brother! Good luck with the engine tear down.

[@hughkoontz2166]

Great series Tim! Inside of Sean's rig looks and sounds great like it just came off the assembly line. Another 200k miles easy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Hugh!

[@jbroach1985]

I have 583,000 miles on my 2002 Tacoma (original motor, transmission, fuel injectors, and a lot of other stuff). When I first got it in 2001, the odometer only had 17 miles on it. Just did compression test- 5 cylinders were all 205-215, but cylinder #2 failed (

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Wow! Super cool to hear of owners like you so thank you for taking the time to stop by the comments and share that info. The bottom end of your engine should be fun (we hope!) - We will pray to the Toyota Gods for you 💪🏼 - Sean

[@jaredt8883]

Nice job. That was a lot of work. Caught your video just before I was headed out to my father's place to help him do some wrenching on his 1962 Studebaker gt Hawk. The amount of work that needs to be done to it makes the work I have done on my Toyota look like child's play. And unfortunately, I have not found a lot of videos on KZbin to use as reference for what we have been doing, it makes me really appreciate your channel and the resource that it provides to the community. Thank you very much!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks, Jared. I appreciate everything you said. Thanks for acknowledging the effort Sean and I put forth to help out the Toyota/Lexus SUV and Truck Community.

[@brucewayne2773]

205 to 215 compression, great numbers Timmy and Sean. Job well done 👏👏

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Batman!

[@andrewb2326]

Thank you so much for the series. Excellent reference. I think when it comes to these rigs, you guys are the wrenching gods. We will pray to you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Andrew and you're very welcome.

[@johnr423]

You guys did a good job. That is engine is running so smooth. Like a Swiss time piece

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks John!

[@redsledski]

Hey Tim! I picked your brain several months ago about the 5VZ engine change. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, was thinking my truck was still in great enough shape for some low-maintenance commuting for at least another 50K, but... Ugh!!! I found a ticking bomb. Head gasket leak. So, for a re-fresh of our last conversation, I have a cherry, 300K Tacoma limited 4x4 5vz double cab. No lift. no mods. no supercharger, etc. Rarely has it been reved to 4000. Mobile 1 5W-30 every 3000, timing belt/water pump, transmission fluid and other fluids change every 80K. A little POR-15ed frame rust at the spare tire cross-member area of frame but otherwise good. It's never over-heated. Other than up into the mountains a couple days a week to ski or DH MTB, its been road-babied, runs great, but I'm going through it now to give it to my niece, a rural Mainer, getting her DL soon, and it should continue to have an easy life in her hands. I've replaced all the front end goodies to tighten it up to factory, and when getting ready to final that all up I decided to change the valve cover gasket seals and clean-up 100k worth of seeping oil goo before changing the rack bushings. Long story short, after changing the valve cover gaskets (with help from your video; thanks there!), I was looking for post gasket install leaks, using an inspection mirror, and found a ticking time-bomb under the rt exhaust manifold, next to the engine mount--a very clearly, apparently very long leaking head gasket spot about 1/4" (coolant) at No. 3 cylinder. Mixed with oil from the long-leaking valve gasket, and road grime mixed for grit, it looked like clumps oily red clay balls, sitting on the engine mount. Cleaned it up blindly using mad contorting, and it is a very slight, non-oil, pure coolant leak. It doesn't use noticeable amounts of coolant; no coolant in the oil; no steam out the tail pipe; with the radiator cap removed, once temp opens the thermostat, no bubbles; no misfiring; no power loss; good idle' etc. I doubt the head is warped; the gasket had just slightly given out due to age, a drip or two of coolant every 30 miles or so, coagulating below the gasket to over-board at that one small spot next to a cooling port. So now I'm in a conundrum... Okay, looking at your head gasket vid, and from reading forums, clearly if I open this thing up and find "detonation cracking" across the valves in the dome, I might be in for the cost of re-mfged heads. Yota1 wants something like $1300 for each head sans shipping to Colorado. With gaskets, seals, tubes exhaust studs, etc, etc, if the heads are beyond welding, the bill could easily go up to the approach of a Yota1 motor; not to mention time wise I might actual be able to install a new motor more easily. Now because I've babied it, it is NOT supercharged, I might have decent heads still and be able to get away with just pulling the heads, cleaning up the gaskets decks, installing new Toyota gaskets and driving on. The question(s) I have: 1) In your experience how likely is it that a 300K factory head won't have "detonation cracks"? 2) How likely if cracked can it still be repairable by a decent machine shop? (being that the head isn't exactly "blown") 3) Am I logical in my assumption that the head, having never been overheated, is probably not warped out of Factory .004 mm tolerance? 3) Time-wise, if you don't pull the transmission, and no big eff-ups happen, is the engine change faster? 4) Where do I find the Di-Lithium Crystals to keep this beast running? Larry

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't have a lot of experience pulling heads off these engines. I've only done it once. According to Nick at Yota1 Performance, detonation cracks are fairly common. How likely would a cracked head be repairable? Again, that's something I really can't answer for you. I doubt the heads will be warped. An engine swap is still a lot of work because you have to completely strip your old engine, clean up the parts and swap them over to the new engine. I think you should just pull the heads, send them to a machine shop and see what you got. If it ends up you need new heads, that's when you should consider just buying a rebuilt engine.

[@redsledski]

Oh yeah, another thing to mention is that before discovering the leak I did a dry/wet compression test and my numbers weren't awful, but not great either--172-3 (dry) and 210/15 (wet) across all cylinders, which admittedly was disappointing, but I suspect the previous owner (I bought the truck with 56k original miles on it 246k ago, and they likely used crap oil and didn't change it regularly; that's all I can figure for the disappointing compression numbers. Anyway... Although I haven't done a leak down to test the heads, it shows the compression rings are clearly somewhat tired (150psi is the low Toyota "serviceable" number. Also I've got 20k (if the leak didn't exist) to do another timing belt/water pump replacement. I guess my internal argument is: would I be money/time ahead to just skip attempting a head gasket replacement and just going straight to the Yota1 engine swap?

[@redsledski]

I intend to keep this thing until the wheels fall off. Why? There is just something special about the size and (relative to new full-size Tacos), and the relatively analog nature of these 1st gen Tacomas. I just bought a Subaru Crosstrek Sport, and as great as it is to drive, I shudder to think of the electronic/computer problems that will come up after a 100k. Just the touch screen that pretty much operates everything is $5k to replace. But back to the 5vz... It seemed like one ends up pulling 70% of the stuff you need to pull the engine, the worst seems to deal with the exhaust manifolds, which either way is required, not including everything one does to change the timing belt, valve covers and heads, and the other "since we are in here" parts (hoses, motor brushes, etc), which as for the critical, "while we are here" parts would be obviously easier to change out with the engine pulled. So a question... After pulling the engine, in that you've now actually done it, did you see any specific reason removing the transmission was necessary to pull the engine? Alleviating the transmission removal, from watching the vids, seems to remove about 50% of the most difficult work required. Is that the case? That's just what it looks like. And if that's the case, skipping the trans pull, it seems about equal effort between changing the heads and swapping the engine, and if Yota1 engines are as good as they seem then you should have a strong, worry-free engine for a couple more thousand miles. And again, I'm only shooting 172 psi with a dry compression test. But then I 'm just digging for info; I have no experience with either jobs or longevity of replacement parts. @@TimmyTheToolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@redsledski The reason we pulled the transmission is because at the time, we believed it was easier to mate the transmission to the engine rather than mate the engine to the transmission. Now that I've pulled engines both ways, mating the transmission to the engine is easier, but is it enough easier to spend the time removing the transmission? The answer is no, but getting the engine at the right angle and mated to the transmission is a pain in the ass. You should watch our 3.0 to 3.4 swap we did on a 2nd Gen 4runner for tips on how to do it. Just watch the part where we are putting in the new engine. I think you're a candidate for a rebuilt engine. Or, you just drive it as is until you're forced to do something. It doesn't sound like to me the coolant leak is significant. If it were me, I'd keep driving it as is. If you're worried about its reliability because you'll be taking it on some long road trips, maybe just do the engine swap for the peace of mind.

[@redsledski]

Thanks so much for the tips. Much appreciated. Trying to come up with a game plan and be smart about it. Yeah, I'm going to hold off on doing anything until I hit my next timing belt change time, which is in another 20K. I should possibly make it; I hope! I put hella miles on my truck, 70-to 80 miles a day, so it will be sooner than later, probably next fall. I'll just keep an eye on it. But approaching then, yeah buddy, I'll be ordering a Yota1 motor. Just one more question... Would you say that doing a 3.4 to 3.4 swap with an auto trany would be a lot easier than trying to stab in than with the manual trans you guys were fighting? It looks like stabbing the output shaft really hung you guys up. That and having the A/C compressor installed rather than hung off to the side of the bay. I ask this because I might be attempting this thing solo. @@TimmyTheToolman

[@aldomassa7473]

Excellence Tim, love this channel, sound counsel in everything, great shout out to WTC build, that was great too . Have another cold one you guys earned it. Thanks much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! We will drink some more beers to celebrate our accomplishment. It was the most labor intensive series to date.

[@marcoharrorato7259]

Great job guys! That was a lot of work specifically with all the filming. Another great video series completed 👍.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Marco. We appreciate you acknowledging the effort we put into this series. It was no easy task, that's for sure.

[@KenbrahNowak]

Nice meeting you Thanks for the advice!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Likewise.

[@jackwalsh1468]

Tim & Sean a very informative and valuable series indeed. Kudos and Cheers, Mate.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jack!

[@benzoil0453]

Fantastic job Tim and Sean! I really hope I luck out and not have to do this in the near future but my engine is getting pretty high in miles. But when the time comes I feel confident now in taking it on. Thank you guys for your willingness and devotion to helping others. I enjoy saving money of course but taking on these types of challenges gives me much deeper satisfaction. Thanks again! Ben

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for your comment, Ben. We appreciate it very much. I also hope you never need this series.

[@benzoil0453]

@@TimmyTheToolman LOL well hope in one hand I guess

[@efil4kizum]

Benzoil0453, how high in miles? I have 314k on my 5VZ in 26 years and seems to be ok still... its not supercharged or anything and i try change the coolant 2 gallons worth every 50k miles

[@benzoil0453]

@@efil4kizum About to hit 375,000 on my 3.4 4runner. 245,000 on my 3.4 tacoma. Both still clicking along just fine and I too try to stay up on the maintenance since I bought them. Just nice to watch these videos and mentally prepare myself for these jobs ahead of time lol

[@efil4kizum]

@@benzoil0453 my old tacoma just sprung a rack leak by the rag joint a few thousand miles ago in New York on my way back home from east coast... the leak appears to have slowed up after a full bottle of prestone asian stop leak until i can get it fixed along with new LCAs and a new clutch that is finally making that bearing chatter SMH probably needs new suspension parts too, springs and some new coilovers up front

[@marvinshorty4611]

Great series of videos. Lots of information was shared and the video editing was great.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Marvin! We no doubt put a lot of work into this series.

[@DoubleHaulCharters]

An amazing video series! Thanks Timmy and Sean!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thank you! We appreciate it!

[@KendrasEdge757]

Excellent job! Appreciate all of your content. Sub’d a few months ago prior to buying my 2021 T4R TRD ORP while researching 4Runners and Taco’s. Great stuff from y’all and a lot of knowledge put out! Appreciate it!!! 🤙

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment. We're happy to hear you like on our channel and you appreciate the information we share in our videos.

[@pepilloni]

Thank you so much for take the time and dedication to do all this great job 👏

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. It was an enormous amount of work to film and edit this project. Thanks for acknowledging our efforts.

[@orvisK7D]

Thank you so much for this guide! I just got done re building my my heads

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@orvisK7D You're very welcome! Great job doing all that work yourself.

[@JesusOrtiz-rt9xx]

Thank you so much for the help it was my first time opening this moto and your video's are full of good and useful information thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@JesusOrtiz-rt9xx You're very welcome, Jesus. I'm glad our video series has helped you out.

[@cbdreamer1709]

Great idea on compression check

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep. We had to know what the result was after all that work. We were pleasantly surprised with the compression numbers.

[@benaldredge2671]

Awesome job guys! Looks and sounds great. Tim, it’s quiet due to that shiny red URD pulley😊. Have a great weekend guys.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Ben. Yep, it was all due to the fancy red URD pulley. You have a great weekend as well.

[@ddemier]

Great series. Love the wine drinking segment! I would have done the same.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're happy to know you enjoyed the series. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@jrb222]

Great series. Intimidating but doable I think!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jorge. It's definitely doable by a DIYer.

[@عراضي-د4ي]

Much much much appreciated gentlemen.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@adamgendron6320]

Hell yeah guys! Good job! Congrats!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks, Adam!

[@scotto3826]

Another great video series! You guys are true professionals, and it really shows when you do something this involved and the engine starts and runs like it's new. I used your timing belt video to do the timing belt on my 2002 tacoma. Everything went perfectly! I have one question. Considering that you're removing the heads in this project, is it really necessary to set the engine at TDC of cyl 1 before you begin?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like the video series. In reality, you don't really need to put the engine at TDC. When it come times to pulling the heads off, you have the alignment dots on the cams to go by to get them off properly.

[@efil4kizum]

Sean, i like that Red URD pulley!!... its much nicer looking than the OEM pulley that i had to replace for 600$ because it failed before my rig hit 190k miles ... the coating on that pricey new pulley has already failed, flaked and developed surface rust on it 8^( its unsightly compared to your red one LOL

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You purchased an OEM crank pulley and the coating is already failing? And it cost $600?!?!? This URD pulley is only $300 - Sean

[@on-site4094]

Thanks Another great job🔧. Thumbs up 👍 👍👍👍👍guys. Quality heads & quality. Job

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Bro! We appreciate it!

[@cbdreamer1709]

Awesome dude thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Our pleasure.

[@calokie5567]

I feel like this head job video series is taking away from the 2023 BBQ highlights !!! WTF man…… JK keep enlightening us with this sic mod content

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We still need to get that party video out. We've been inundated with so much editing lately. I think I reached a new level of eye fatigue from this series. It was a massive undertaking, no doubt. Of course, more Sic Content is coming your way. Stay tuned!

[@efil4kizum]

oh no!! did you already have the annual BBQ? i had been wanting for a couple years to make the 1/2 cross-country trek across the rockies and have been keeping on the lookout for any deets for this year's BBQ

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@efil4kizum Yes, we had the party on June 3rd. We put out a video invite for it. You should make sure you receive notifications when we upload new content so you don't miss another party invite.

[@Thomas-xm5ym]

The screen was dark for so long at the beginning that I thought my phone farted up

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Thomas-xm5ym you better get your phone checked.. might be a gastrointestinal issue. - Sean

[@AWOODLA24]

Curious what you think I should do after my failed head gasket job. I replaced my head gasket a little over a month ago and it’s very clear there still is an apparent leak. Oil is heavily mixed with coolant and smoke billows out of the exhaust. I had done everything to spec other than thoroughly checking the block surface (I really did not think the block would be the issue) so I just cleaned it and reassembled. Which I guess was likely a big mistake. Do you think it is more worthwhile to pull the engine, tear it down to the block, bring the block to a machine shop and see if it can be repaired (assuming the block was the issue) Or say the hell with that engine and throw a different 3.4 in the car. With the price of 4Runners right now this is really my only 2 options I can think of that Dave me money. I have a little commuter but with winter coming I want to get my 4runner back on the road.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That really sucks you did all thst work and you still have an issue. If it were me, I'd probably just get a rebuilt 3.4 from Yota1 Performance or other shoo with a good reputation in the industry.

[@SOLDADITO76]

Just had come across a burning coolant issue on me 3.4l and wanted to get your opinion. The engine has never been overheated to my knowledge of course it is used with 235k miles. I had replaced the timing belt with a complete timing set including the front and rear main seals the minute I got it looked over and on an engine stand. I've had the intake manifold off and used new gaskets when reinstalled, unfortunately not Toyota gaskets. after getting everything put back together and engine running it now burns coolant. Has a smooth idle with no codes being thrown for misfires. When I removed the upper plenum I didn't un bolt the throttle body so that gasket was never touched, and when it was reinstalled the coolant and vacuum hoses going to the IAC were installed correctly. I pulled the intake off and installed Toyota gaskets and after reinstalling the intake manifold at first no burning coolant, but after running for five minutes getting the coolant to circulate while engine is in closed loop, then the engine starts burning coolant. This is very noticeable by the white smoke coming out the tailpipe. I have never remove anything lower than the intake so I'm a little bit at a lose is to why all of a sudden this engine is burning coolant. The engine has been out of the truck since I was doing other work so it has been sitting on a engine stand in the garage for about two to three weeks. Any ideas to were/what I should check.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Coolant could be leaking into the cylinders via the intake valves if the intake manifold gasket isn't the greatest. Air intake ports are right next to coolant ports. If the gasket is compromised between those two ports, coolant can leak into the cylinder.

[@SOLDADITO76]

I was thinking that with the old cheap gasket but not with the dealer gaskets. Plus on the coolant ports I added some Ultra Grey around the coolant ports since the old gaskets were pretty well sealed when I removed the intake the first time. If coolant enters the cylinder in the intake side during combustion wouldn't that cause a rough idle and possibly a misfire? The idle was butter smooth and no stumble with throttle operation at any RPM. Could there be coolant be getting in through the intake from the IAC? But maybe that would also give me a rough idle as well.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@SOLDADITO76 It should cause a rough idle, but who knows. When you've got smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, no obvious leak, and you're losing coolant, your engine has to be consuming it

[@SOLDADITO76]

I guess the only other thing I can think of is pulling the plugs to see which one looks like it has signs of be basically steam cleaned then pull a cylinder head/heads. Just wanted to see if you had any ideas before I really get in any deeper.

[@nicolasnigel4605]

I followed along and i did it on the street before street sweeping came by lol and i did it to the last part of the stating the car. But it cranks and hasn't started. It gets to a point of wanting to start and then dies like there is no power. No codes from the scan. I tried to jumpstart it and stiill cranking with no start. Any advice?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

With that involved of a job, the only thing I can say is retrace your steps and make sure you made all the electrical and hose connections. Get the intake plenums off and make sure all the injectors are connected, the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor connections. All the connections to the throttle body, etc.

[@redcard4life]

Before this video I had my mechanic do this for me and for some reason the hardest bolt to get to closest to the brake booster still has a small oil leak. I've torqued it to spec multiple times. Any thoughts on how to stop it?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I guess you're talking about the valve cover gasket leaking. At the back of the engine, there's a half moon that needs to be re-sealed and a cam plug thet needs to be replaced. Maybe your mechanic didn't do one or both of those.

[@redcard4life]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks!

[@kdmtmb7657]

Do you think the supercharger had anything to do with the cracked head?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I do. We think maybe the engine was running a bit lean which contributed to it. We are in the process of installing a 7th injector, higher capacity fuel pump and computer tuner to hopefully improve the air/fuel ratio and get better performance from his engine.

[@Cmc-365]

so i finished the job. Went to start it and im pretty sure i had to number 1 coil pack connector switched with the number 3 connector it started but ran real funny as if it was missing or somthing i shut it off. Now that i think about it it might have been firing out of sequence. Figured out i switched the connectors this morning fixed it now it wont start it jus cranks but if i keep tryin to crank it it maks a funny clunk noise. I checked the timming also and its dead on. Did i ruin something when i started and let it run for about a min with the connectors switched?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't think you could have done any damage switching the connectors. I really don't know how you could have connected the coil packs wrong. The didn't think the wires are long enough to be transposed.

[@Cmc-365]

@TimmyTheToolman u think the cylinders are flooded with fuel cuz I keep tryin to crank it? I crank it untill it makes this weird clunking nosie it sounds bad like somthing is messed up inside. I cam turn the engine over by the crank bolt and feel no resistance and here no clunk it's only when I try to crank it over

[@arinmirzayan3949]

Will done guy's

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Arin!

[@StonebrookRecords]

SUBSCRIBED YOU GUYS ARE AMAZING!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! Welcome to our channel.

[@DuaneDonaldson]

I wish when folks mentioned something on the web that they would simply give a link, thank you brother for the great series. As a DIYer you are not an engine rebuilder and machinist, only a rebuilder, we always send out the work to the machine shop and simply put it all back together as a DIYer, mechanic, or tech at all levels. Worse than Chiggers series is listed in his remarks guys.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKCvc4V6j7FsnKc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Interesting comment about the terms Rebuilder and Machinist. A shop like Yota1 Performance is an Engine Rebuilding Shop. They do the machining and they do the assembly. So, when I hear the term Rebuilder, I think of a shop that can do it all. I think DIYers farming out the machining to a machine shop are more of an "Assembler" but I know the term most use is they are "Rebuilding" their engine. Thanks for the comment.