Tips and tricks for 3D printing

[@richardmclaugfhlin65]

The reward for work well done is more work. I'm glad you're always up to the task.

[@andrewpalm2103]

As usual, Martin, a very thorough tutorial that will be helpful to many people. Cheers from Wisconsin!

[@grahamhanks906]

I have been 3d designing and printing parts for a 1/400 titanic model, and what you say about models having to be designed for a particular scale is very true. people do not realise all the design elements you have to take into account when changing scales in a model design.

[@yellowbird2279]

Thank you so much, this was a huge help, I really appreciate your step by step Tutorial because I am new to all of this

[@bobchartier7721]

I've been loving resin printing. I watched your video to see if I was doing something different. I do 1/25 scale models. This video is great for beginners and experts having problems. Only thing you never talk about was 3d printer leveling. Great video

[@lindaoffenbach]

Thank you for this fantastic coverage of the many questions, the process, what to expect and how to circumvent issues. It does clear up a lot. Wonderful. Happy December season 🎄 🎄 🎄

[@martinhanley23]

Another great video Martin

[@terryxperry]

Thanks for showing us now to do it

[@lighttraveler7514]

Martin: Thank you for putting the time and effort into this tutorial. I have only "awareness" of 3D printing and have not invested any time or energy into studying it. This video was a great eye opener for me. I enjoy your KZbin channel a lot.

[@brunoriefenstahl4457]

Martin, thank you very much for your very informative video!!! I'm one step closer to change from my old PLA 3D printer to new resin 3D printer. I wish you a happy Xmas and a happy new year. Stay healthy👋

[@amaurythewarrior]

even on high magnification the lines seem barely visible. it's nice to see people showing more technical parts, and not only miniatures

[@davidjohnfarrell4579]

You are so informative. Thank you

[@robertcooney8831]

Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 ❤️ to you and your family 👪 ❤️. I have been in the hospital again, I've had 2 Heart attacks and 3 strokes 💔 😢. Have a great Christmas and Happy New Year 😀 😊

[@brettany_renee_blatchley]

Goodness...so sorry to hear that 💚💙💜 may you get better soon and may you and your family have a reprieve from all this struggle & stress.) (We know how difficult this is also: my spouse is in the hospital for the 13th time this year, and she'll be an inpatient over the holidays. She's on her second cats-worth of lives now. It's overwhelming for all of us - watching this like this video is a nice break from the stress and uncertainty.)

[@christiaanblokhorst6676]

I had seen your video with the railbike and that was the start for me to begin with 3d printing. I have printed a lot of parts like the catenary. Most of the parts i printed normal thiknes 0.05, the smaller parts i print on 0.02 or 0.03.

[@petersierksma5374]

Thank you Martin. That's very helpful !

[@yrunaked4]

fantastic video. I learned a lot. Thanks Martin. Cheers Rob

[@luke_atthat]

Thank you very much for this nice tutorial video ! Happy New Year !

[@robertjohnston3848]

Thank you very much . Robert

[@ProfessorTrain743]

Excellent! Very informative. Cheers!

[@paulgertsch7105]

It would be great if you could do a follow up video that covers the safe handling and proper disposal of the uncured resen.

[@valborchardt3596]

Thank you Martin

[@ThoreLarsson]

Hi Martin, very good instructions but important to instruct that you can't save the sliced file in a Folder on your memory stick. That was my misstake from start that I do the sliced file and saved in a Folder called "Sliced model files" and inserted the memory stick into the Photon printer and the printer can't find files in Folders. It's very common to store files in Folders with a specific name to find it later, but that's not possible if you want the printer to find the sliced file. Best regards Thore Xon

[@ichilvers]

Another great video. What I've been searching for is the best 3D design software to use for creating buildings and walls with brick or stone. I looked at FreeCAD but couldn't see a good way of doing it. I looked at blender and that has a steep learning curve. So open to suggestions, tutorials, etc

[@jensenlopez2944]

I believe Blender would be the best option

[@HenrikLaurell]

You are right that downscaling models often does not work, but there is no problem to *upscale* a model from for example N scale to HO. Also adding supports is not that complicated after you done it a few times, practice makes perfect as they say. Except that you made a great job of explaining the process.

[@jokingpandora5894]

Loose of Detail will probably acure.

[@HenrikLaurell]

No, they will only be bigger.. and more visible.

[@jokingpandora5894]

An N scale will most likely be modeled with less detail. So you start on a less detailed model.

[@HenrikLaurell]

@@jokingpandora5894 yes of course, but the point is that upscale is no problem. Only downscale is, for the same reason. Details made for HO will be so small they will easily brake or not print at all.

[@frankwhittle4364]

@@HenrikLaurell I don't find any problem with downscale, I have downscaled from dolls house size to 00 and found absolutely no problem.

[@kaptajnsejersen6303]

I would love to see some people to print in the 3d models library. Traincrew, passengers etc..

[@thebritishengineer8027]

I have been working on designing/creating 3D models for railways/railroads. My models are drawn in 1/35th, but specifically scaled down with individual models in HO/OO and O Gauge respectfully. The problem in chasing detail, I have 4 fire buckets in HO complete with handles that brake if you press to hard with the paint brush. Some of my pieces only successfully print on a certain machine, using a certain resin, at a certain temperature. In developing eally fine-scale 3D models, it will be impossible for me to actualy put many of them on the market-place for download. Add to that I mix resins to produce different properties.

[@ModellingIndianRailways]

Hi, That was awesome video as usual. I have been designing and printing Indian Train Models. However, I am models are slightly warping post curing. Do you have suggestions on warping?

[@verfressener8220]

Great Video, can you make a video about diffrent 3D printers some kind of test and recommendation wich size and brand

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

good vid merry chrismas thanks lee

[@markushodel173]

Thanks Martin and merry Christmas to you and your family. 🎅🏻🎄⛄️ After printing, what do you have to do for cleaning the printer? Cheers from Switzerland 🇨🇭 🙋🏻‍♂️

[@dubbelusch2176]

Thanx for a good, easy to understand video. How small scale is it possible to print? And does 3D printing work for making figures too?

[@andreaskoepf8993]

Hallo Martin tolles Video, mit welcher Farbe hast du die Masten lackiert? Ich finde hierzu nicht wirklich was passendes. Danke und Grüße.

[@plutoyaldnil4750]

One thing you have to do if you are printing something in h.o. scale often you will need to know the real life size item then divide that by 87 sometime people are building in some odd scales but that should help.

[@h0purist806]

We need more stuff in N-Scale

[@richardsgro3562]

Merci encore 🇨🇵👍👍👍👍

[@paulmarmion358]

I live in uk and model 00 scale and want to do 3D printing can I purchase from model railroad 3D in 00scale like you did in the video ho scale or can you suggest any sites I could purchase such plans it looked very easy to do in your video I found it very helpful

[@MrEnglishford]

very good

[@juancarloslopez688]

Martin, definitly you are a master in this matter, I really aprecciate your magnificient work. So, by curiosity, I would like to know what sales strategy Wiessmann, Marklin and any other model train big vendors will implement in order to compensate the quiet new 3D tools. Hopefully they will lower prices and offer us better products and prices. Best regards, Merry Xmas and happy new year my friend!!

[@genejordan9983]

Great video. I have a question. I do n scale. The one thing that n scalers don’t have is quality people figurines. Woodland scenics offer a very few choices at an outrageous price. But figures like Fock workers or construction people just don’t exist. Do you know a source that has quality figures and a large selection? Thanks, Gene in the Philippines.

[@Mike__B]

This might be a stupid question, but why do you need to print with supports for something like that barrel? It has a flat bottom, so why wouldn't it just print directly to the print pad?

[@volkerrode4980]

I'm wondering that you don't use a rubber funnel with the filter to put back the resin to the bottle.

[@pedalcarguy]

I have one question: does a resin printer emit fumes during printing? Is any ventilation needed? Thank you, great video!

[@gabem8119]

Resin that isn’t water washable has a strong smell that should be in a ventilated area. I use water washable resin that’s worked well for me and doesn’t have a strong smell. I prefer it cause IPA can get expensive. You can set up a ventilated print booth but if you print in a large area like a garage it should be ok.

[@pedalcarguy]

@@gabem8119 Ok, thanks a bunch! I am setting up a resin printing booth in my workshop. I will also use water washable resin. Season's greetings to you!🌲🌟

[@randomnickify]

Contact with uncured resin, its fumes and its shavings can lead to serious health issues over time. Watch proper videos about health and safety of resin printing before even buying a printer. Keep in mind that some youtubers ignore or gloss over the issues or do it straight wrong - like handling the resin with wrong gloves - find a channel that specializes in resin printing. Water washable resin isn't safer or more environmentally friendly, it's toxic in the same way normal resin is.

[@pedalcarguy]

@@randomnickify Thank you for pointing out the issues. I don't want to get any health problems from resin printing. I will take all necessary precautions regarding handling of resin, resin fumes and any resin waste.

[@davidjohnfarrell4579]

Hi. I'm Dave Farrell from the UK. Could you tell me. The waste from a 3D printer. Is it re-usable ? Thank you for any advice.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi Dave, The waste is not immediately re-useble. The resin is cured, so the only possible re-use I can think of to burn it and get energy back for heating or electric generation purposes.

[@garciatony60]

Hi Martin! I downloaded some plans from Thingiverse and the pieces are too large for the Anycubic to print. Scaling them down would make the entire piece smaller, so that won't work. What do you suggest doing to print smaller sections of a design to be assembled later? Thanks for the great work!

[@ebjor]

Have you tried to print (scaled) parts from photogrammetry, like 3DF or Pix4D ? Your house model looks like such an item? I am a photographer and drone pilot who work in the energy branch, making 3D models of concrete structures.

[@CAPHOTO1961]

Can this be done in your house or are there noxious fumes involved? Thanks! Great video as usual. Cheers!

[@davidc3150]

Do you have a discount code or promo with these designers? Would be a good deal since you are advertising them

[@rremington3983]

Martin, great video! Are there charges for downloading and using other people’s designs? I don’t want to design my own it’s. Robert

[@magnificus8581]

Awesome! I am about to buy my first printer and really appreciate your experience and advice! Question: Didn't you have a Photon Ultra as one of your earlier 3D printers? If so, why did you switch to the Anycubic Photon Mono X2?

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! The Photon Ultra DLP wasn’t all that great unfortunately. Very slow (X2 is about 2,5 times faster), very little print head (X2 is about x2 larger) and the mechanics of the DLP was poor. This results in lower percentage successful prints and more maintenace. So.. Mono X2 is much better.

[@magnificus8581]

@@marklinofsweden thank you, Mark!

[@michaelyoung-d2n]

where is best to get oo gauge model railroad 3d prgrams to download

[@kennethcarver9687]

Is it possible to print parts going from ho scale to g scale using ho blueprints? I know nothing on this process! I may be buying a printer in the near future.

[@heli-man-]

files can be scaled up or down in fusion 360 very easily

[@nicolasg.6232]

I see most of the 3d files on sale are ho, could I use them to print n scale?

[@marknichols7861]

Do you also have an astronomy channel?

[@nitrorrat8190]

I have a question is it better to remove the supports before you cuer

[@marklinofsweden]

Yes! Much better. After cure supports become hard and removal may damage the printed item.

[@nitrorrat8190]

I found that out the hard way thank you so much for the information appreciate it very much

[@thiagoleitenicoluci854]

How can I find 3D files for Z scale? I could only find HO models...

[@paulvannoorloos5963]

Hi, I was wundering if downscaling is not possible from ho to n?

[@SimSummer]

i think that you are wrong about the dont change scale thing. i often do it and it works fine

[@happyboar1019]

Hello Martin, thanks for the video but I have a question: I use a Photon S printer but I find that the printed objects are not so accurate, I found that some details are missing. I think you have tested the Photon S too in a previous video. If you compare the 2 machines (Photon S and Mono x2), could you tell me your feeling about it ? Thank you 😊

[@mapruitt]

Good video. Unfortunately, my experience with 3D printing is very different than yours. I got an Anycubic Photon Mono X in early December and have had nothing but failed print after failed print! Even a simple print of small crates came out with some distortions. Everything else has failed miserably. In many cases, big pieces of the print wind up stuck to the FEP, even though I apply a teflon dry lube to it to prevent that. Even simple vertical tie strips come out distorted and unusable, and parts of them don't come out at all! I don't know how you got your catenary to come out so straight and true. I've spent 60-70 hours with this machine and am frustrated almost to the point of tossing it into the trash!

[@monham5041]

Hi there. I scale models to print on my filament printer as OO Gauge size all the time so I disagree with your point on this sorry. I have Two whole layouts with Buildings printed as small as 50% size. I use a door height from a Hornby model as a reference to judge how much I want to scale my buildings. They may not be perfect but they are close enough. It depends on each 3D model however.

[@ABELSS2]

use UVtools to scale?

[@ZultanenOfSweden]

Toppen 🤙🏻👍🏻

[@jurgenriedl7347]

Martin is a super railroader with a lot of experience. Here, however, I like to disagree a lot of his statements. Resin printer never clog, FDM printers can. So if you want to scale down, with Resin printers it is no problem. A problem appears, if someone e.g. modelled a brick structure, where the thin line of mortar is to narrow and not deep enough, so that you can paint them and get the bricks and mortar clean separated. Insofar if it is constructed with a certain scale in mind, downscaling will work. However, to be a pro, learn CAD and make the experienced, how to construct and make the supports right! Important to know is, that parts needs to be orientated usually in certain angles, as resin printers have a problem with flat bottom surfaces, except you print without support, if it is possible at all. It is always a question of construktion with resin print in mind. I recommend here the KZbinr 3DPrintingPro and Uncle Jessy. If you want to see how another premier builder works, look at boulter creek railway Luke Town with his dooings. Martin uses a Wash and Cure station, but does not use the wash part. If I have very tiny separated parts, then I don't use it either. However, with all that printed in his example, I recommend to use the wash station, as the result of cleaning is far, far better, as no residue of Resin is left. Also I never clean with a brush, as it scrapes into the soft Resin. To clean the Isopropanol, I use three transparent buckets and a coarse kitchen sieve. The buckets need to have a lid, as Isopropanol evaporates very easy. The Isopropanol from the wash station I put into the first bucket, then lid set and out into the sun. After a while the bucket becomes opaque, then I put all through the kitchen sieve without any paper filter or so. The coarse parts remain in the sieve, afer a while some of the IPA is dropped from the residue as well. The first bucket will be cleaned, and all IPA from the second bucket Put back to the first. After a while in the sun, now the kitchen sieve gets some sheets of paper kitchen towel into, and the IPA gets filtered very well. Here the third bucket comes into play, as I sieve a second time with paper towel. Forget koffee filters. The most use them at the first place and wait for ages, as they clog fast. I did it in the beginning as well. If in the vat some resin ripples are left, the better way to remove them, is to let the printer for 30 seconds just light the vat. Put a left over resin part at the seam of the vat before lighting. Then you pull out that part easily, without damaging the FEP using the plastic scraper. After bad experience I never pour the used resin back in the original bottle, but in a smaller one with 0,5 litre. I use a stainless steal strainer. As soon as there is to less resin left, I shake the original bottle a while and fill the half litre bottel. Thats going into the vat then. Happy printing.

[@AemJaY]

just one question. do they also have models in N Scale? or just H0 scale?

[@HenrikSweden1]

although this is a nice video i think you really should say something about the safetyhazards when using a 3d printer. Where can i keep the printer, how do i deal with the fumes, ventilation and handling the products. In my opinion this is a very important issue. Even an ad would include these questions with answers. And no it still isn't as easy as using an regular printer. But it was a good try....

[@markuseule3952]

Hallo Martin machst Du das Video auch auf deusch ? Gruß Markus

[@ChrisSgaraglino]

You are way wrong about scaling! I have hundreds of successful prints I have scaled from HO to N w/o any issues. There have been very few (< 5%) that I have had issues with. Mostly with thinning of pipes. Other than that - no issues! For HO to N, HO 87 divided by 160 for N = 54.375%. Lick scale in your slicer, change 100 to 54.38 and lock perorations and you are done.

[@andywolf3205]

The proprietary Anycubic slicer sucks, it's impossible to work in it. Use ChituBox or Litchi slicer for slicing. HERE. Sorry for such an angry post.

[@rhiwderinraytube]

While I appreciate you making videos on model railways. I, like many others do not have and probably never will have a 3D printer. Please make some more railway videos! Have a Merry Christmas!

[@osmanpasha_diy]

Sorry but scaling a model has nothing to do with printer clogging. A good quality 3D-printer with good filament will not get clogged no matter the scale, a bad quality nozzle and filament will clog no matter the scale. Scaling is definitely possible, provided you know what you do. Just keep in mind that scaling up will leave you with under-detailed object (should be totally viable when scaling TT model to HO scale, probably not enough detail when scaling N model to G scale), scaling down may prevent printing of thin objects that become too thin at smaller scale.

[@andywolf3205]

The above statements 1 and 2 are fundamentally WRONG. 1. The picture may be a CG-Render. 2. It is POSSIBLE to reduce (as well as Increase) the model (But at the same time it is necessary to adhere to 'proportionality', i.e. to reduce the 1/8 scale model to 1/64 scale, for example, it will not work, and reducing from OO to HO or N is quite workable). Next: Each RESIN has Its own settings (THERE ARE NO UNIVERSAL ONES). That's it. So.

[@randomnickify]

"No its not possible to scale down anything" - I never printed anything personally, but as the 3d artist I can say it is not correct. You clearly do not understand some part of the process. While 3d models might not have any size settings bulid in, I would assume slicer software has ability to set the scale. And even if it's not the case, importing models into any free 3d software and exporting with proper scale for 3d print is a matter of few clicks. I did exported multiple models from Zbrush in multiple sizes and they printed just fine. I never heard anyone complaining his print failed due to scaling down. It just doesn't work like that. I know several reasons print can fail but all of them can be fixed using free 3d software and minimum 3d knowledge. 100% of models is printable in any size.

[@marklinofsweden]

I understand from your comment that you actually never printed anything personally, which is you also what you write. You are at the square I were before I actually personally started to print things. Now I know better..

[@randomnickify]

​@@marklinofsweden True, but I had my models printed by other people and I had never heard complains similar to yours.True, you can buy models that are not prepared for 3d printing but that is generally matter of few simple fixes. Saying that most models are unprintable is simple misinformation.

[@aaronbono4688]

No no no! 3D printing is not as easy as printing something on paper. Just the fact that so many models out there especially for more realistic stuff don't even have supports and you have that supports. You must not be remembering how much work it was to just learn how to tune your printer settings. When you change resins you have to change your settings. And I don't have print failures when I print text on paper. Oh and all the crap you have to do with protective gear and ventilation and washing and curing the models, when I print stuff on paper I print grab it and done. I'm pretty disappointed that you say 3D printing is as easy as printing something on paper.

[@CKass-cr8sg]

Hi MärklinOfSweden. A great HowToDo Video again and thanks for all the useful links. But please allow me two comments: 3D printing is definitely not like printing a sheet of paper! There is a lot more care and preparation work to do to get good results, especially on a resin printer. But its absolutely worth to do it. @quoted yellowBird: Downloading a model and rescale it to H0 is not a silly idea to laugh about. I did it several times. H0 models can be downscaled to N or TT and vice versa. It depends on the model. There are several models on the web that are not made for printing. So only use printable models! Also a bad designed model will never work, so as you mention, check the PHOTOs! For rescaling you always use a SUPPORTLESS model. Rescaling can be done in the slicer software. If the designer posted some scale information then just enter the factor p.ex. downscaling H0 to N is 0,5437 N upscale to H0 is 1,839. Just devide target-scale by source-scale. If the model seems not to be in any scale, you can make a guess by using the centimeter grid of the slicer software. Auto-generating a support with the software is mostly working fine if you obey TWO BASIC RULES: The obvious one: No hanging parts that are not supported! And: Position your model in a way that surfaces are not parallel to the base plate. Always tilt your object a bit. Ideal is 20-30°. This may sound unlogical, but since I do this I have much less trouble.

[@FourDollaRacing]

Hulloooooo! 😁

[@mk1479]

Hi all, search for: wargaming 3d scale conversion for 3d printing..