Tips for 3D Printer Bed Adhesion | 5 Tips in 5 Minutes

Bed adhesion is the first problem most 3D printers have problems with, so these tips should help you get reliable prints for years to come.
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Tip 1: Bed Leveling
Always use the same type of paper when you are doing the paper test. I use a post-it note folded in half. You should treat bed leveling as a skill that beginners need to learn the pressure needed for the paper that you are using.
Tip 2: Slicer Settings
Skirt, Brim, or Raft have their place and you need to learn when to use each one. Also slowing down initial layer can help first layer.
Tip 3: Glue Stick
I don't always use a glue stick, but with some prints it can be useful in the corners of small prints.
Tip 4: Refresh Bed
Washing the print bed with soap and water can clean off any residue off the print bed. A little bit of steel wool or 1000 grit sand paper can add friction back to a print bed.
Tip 5: New Build Plate
G10 is my favorite build surface I have used, and there are several other options that keep coming out. After a while of printing upgrading your print bed can be a great way to get good bed adhesion.
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[@georg6876]

Don't use alcohol or abrasives on ultrabase type beds, it damages the thin glossy coating on top of the carborundum. If you've ever wiped ultrabase with alcohol you'll probably have seen a yellow residue on the cloth which is the aforementioned coating. It's also a shame that you haven't mentioned the Z offset settings present on most printers. Z offset is useful because even if your bed is perfectly level the nozzle can still be too far, which is usually indicated by the filament curling round the nozzle or the lines on the initial layer being too skinny. Setting the z offset to a negative value (typically no lower than -0.1) can help you attain adequate "layer squish" and will result in significantly improved adhesion.

[@My_Garage_Studios]

Heya do you know by any chance if Weedo Tina2 is ultrabase?

[@davidwiley8752]

This helped a lot to end my first prints frustration

[@Harshesh]

cleaning the bed is trivial but does wonders! thank you for this

[@deadlylampshade4065]

Another tip is slow the first layer speed right down, to 10mm/s or even less. It can help if you’re losing details to filament peeling up or sliding around as it’s laid down. Has worked for me at least.

[@rickmenasian6774]

Also, does more or less heat help adhesion?

[@FlyWithSergio]

How do you have all so clean? My room is a disaster XD

[@yossirabby7746]

Thank you for that. Can you link the G10?

[@rickmenasian6774]

When you first set up your printer, should you zero the Z-offset before leveling?

[@FizulNizam]

JJ, please continue making these videos, I really appreciate them and I know for sure sooner or later you’d have tens of thousands of views and a lot of subscribers! Happy printing!

[@techsavvytaylor]

😊😊😊😊

[@noobwithawheel4323]

Got a used ender3 si pro. Tried everything. The one thing that worked was cleaning the magnetic bed with dawn and soap. It works great now.

[@liudas000]

Hello, I have a problem with PETG - at the beginning my prints just poped out once build plated cooled down... but over a time it sticks even more and more. What can I do to make less sticky surface? maybe its safe to apply some oil?

[@Igniferi]

An oil will probably give you less adhesion. It's going to fill the pores in you plate. If you haven't found a solution already, I can only give tips for a structured plate as that is what I have. Keep the plate as clean as possible, double the height and slow down the speed for the first layer in your slicer. I also recommend you set something like 105% initial layer line width, this especialy will help alot.

[@gerrituenk1982]

I tried a lot but now my first layers are problem free. Just print on normal glass cleaned with cleaning vinegar. PLA en PETG no problems anymore. Even printed some ABS parts without using glue. Maybe only bigger ABS parts need glue..not sure. Not tried yet as I mostly print PETG now

[@gerrituenk1982]

Of course bed leveling and correct bed temperatures are also needed. Don't use papertowels which leaves small fibers on the printbed, I use microfiber towels instead.

[@gerrituenk1982]

after printing let the printbed cool down. The prints come loose from the printbed automatically

[@My_Garage_Studios]

My printer is new from Christmas, it’s a Weedo Tina2, should I still mess with the bed leveling?

[@ragzzytv]

Hello! absolute noob here! i see in reddit and other places people just say use sticky note, use painter's tape or use glue stick. But can you tell me what exactly is "using" mean? do you stick the sticky note when putting in for print? or you use it to rub over the plate to level it? or use it with isopropyl alcohol to clean it? do you just apply a coating of glue stick, then print on top of it? or just use it as a coating, then clean it and then print it? Im sorry this might sound really dumb but im scared to make assumptions and cook my plate.

[@LoneHawk]

When you level the bed place the sticky note between the nozzle and the bed, pressure refers to how hard it pushes into the sticky note. If you have auto bed leveling it’s not something you have to worry about

[@alegg42]

I needed this I tried printing a benchie and the extruder literally picked up the words on the bottom

[@michaeldavison9808]

I have played about with brims and rafts..... usually successfully..... but USING A GLUE STICK has been a complete revelation! I've been printing for 2-3 years and started using a glue stick last week. All the filaments that gave me adhesion problems have started behaving perfectly! I haven't used a raft on any of the small prints that I was previously having to use rafts for since I started using 'scotch' brand version of Pritt. It seems like admitting defeat, but try some glue instead of rafts..... it'll save ages and make like just nicer!

[@fireninja8250]

Glue stick (in my opinion) is a last resort when it comes to bed adhesion. What you could do instead is one of these: You can clean off the bed surface using rubbing alcohol and microfiber cloth, level your bed, heat up your bed, change the extruder offset to make extruder lower, (calibrate e steps before doing these ones) slow down initial layer print speed, set the initial layer line width to 125%, set initial layer height to 0.4 or higher, bring up initial layer flow, buy a new 3d print bed (only if you have stock or if you've seriously trashed the old one), or get a BL touch to cover warping.

[@OtterrChaos]

What bed temperature do you use for your petg on the mega s?

[@365mxst]

They say I’m lil skies 2.0 are they right?

[@mohammadalaaelghamry8010]

That was very helpful, thanks alot.

[@Cyber_Gas]

I got autolevling 0:58