Tips on choosing your first kanna (Japanese plane) part 1

In this little series I show you what to look for in choosing your first kanna and also give you some recommendations.
This part covers pricing and options you have, steels and backing iron choices, and chipbreakers.

[@IanSlatas]

I have no idea how this doesn't have more views. Great video.

[@TheWoodCrafter1]

Best Japanese Plane guide hands down

[@sumokun]

The tools I use right now are mainly hand tools, i.e. saws, chisels, and planes. All Japanese style at the moment. I also use an electric trimmer for binding and a drill press for critical holes like bridge pin and tuner holes. I'm still building on my toolset and I'm trying to do as much as I can by hand. There are a ton of little jigs too. My bench is still being built but it is basically nothing more than a fancy table with a vise on it. I'll try to hurry up and finish it so I can show it.

[@koopsbullitt3874]

Thanks for the great video, I'm a site joiner currently working on a heritage project in Australia making windows & doors. I want to use a 鉋 Kanna to hand finish the new joinery and to rework the old windows. I live most of the year in Fukuoka with my wife & 3 boys. I sometimes get to see 職人 using these types of tools. I like to ride my bike around the back streets of Dazaifu looking for tradesman working and just sit & watch. Thanks again 　　

[@sailorbuckobuckley5217]

man that was the best and most educationally tutorial I have ever had the pleasure to watch thank you for sharing your in depth knowledge with me that is how good they are

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching and I'm really glad you got something out of it :)

[@missionron]

Very good info,thank you for taking the time to explain Kanna to us. There may not be a million views but the ones you have are people you actually helped out!

[@sumokun]

+Swedish Holmberg Hi, thanks for watching! I pretty much started this channel to help others out rather than trying to get a load of views so I am glad to hear there are people out there learning something.

[@bernardofernandez6138]

Hello I just discovered your channel and I really like of your information, I lookThanks for this video I learned a lot. I just ordered my first kanna from japan and I'm really looking forward to using it and learn more about japanese tools.

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching! I'd love to get the time to go and visit a few workshops and video them. Unfortunately most are quite far from Tokyo. Have fun tuning your kanna and it would be great to see some videos of it up and running ;)

[@simeonbanner6204]

What a brilliant video and a nice guy. So many of us, who can't speak Japanese, would really struggle with this. They are, in a sense, like old planes in Europe and the UK. Very impressive.

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for the compliments :) They are similar to old wooden planes of the West in many ways but they still have some mystery surrounding their use etc. I hope to slowly reveal that these tools aren't that complex and to get some more people to use and appreciate them.

[@Huevon1b]

Thank you for posting a great video. Several years ago, a couple of gaijin friends and I went to Miki City (A tool making mecca in western Japan), and since we 3 large English-speakers stood out so much as we poked around the tool shops, we ended up getting invited for a tour of one of the blacksmith shops. It was fascinating. One of the things I learned was that - just as you explained - the old steel is so much better for the blades, and that it had the little black inclusions in it.

[@georgehonk5558]

Clear, articulate and competely inormative. Many thanks......inspiring.

[@boozoochavis7506]

Thank you for posting this video. I would like to buy a lower end plane just to have the experience after using western planes for years. There is much to learn. Keep up this good work.

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. If you do go for a lower end plane and want to get a real kanna experience make sure you avoid the DIY level planes. They will just frustrate you more than anything. Have fun!

[@sumokun]

The choice to use a Western or Japanese plane is mainly personal preference. They can both do amazing work. Personally I try to use J planes wherever I can and use the W planes for more figured wood because it is easier to control tearout. If I had more (or make) high-angle J planes I would use them for figured wood too. Normal J planes can handle figured wood too but you have to be very careful setting them up so I mainly reserve them for fine finishing.

[@gregmartin1757]

Good info.i have really become a huge admirer of Traditional Japanese hand tools.i have been acquiring tools but really did not know what to look for as far as best quality options.this info is very helpful as not many people here in American seem to know much about these tools.i will say I have been very please with the Japanese tools I have gotten so far.

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching! I also like to watch craftsmen (not just woodworking) do their work. Its amazing how effortless they make things look.

[@Huevon1b]

(continued) The man told us that old anchor chain was the best source of this, and he showed us his supply of it. I bought a nice kanna for about 25,000 yen, but I have not been brave enough to tune it up yet! Your videos have given me the inspiration - it is time to dust it off and get it working. Mo ichi do- sono video wa subarashii. Arigatou gozaimasu.

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching and the kind comment. I do build guitars but its purely on a hobby level and I'm nowhere near confident enough in my work to show it to the public... yet. I really would love to do a series on building a guitar from scratch but its probably a way off yet.

[@davidtangredi9650]

Thank you... very informative. I guess after you have your plane in hand, the hard part begins... gaining the skills of the great Japanese craftsmen....

[@joshuasmith8835]

First I want to tell you that your channel is the most helpful and informative of the ones that are online about kanna and japanese chisels, so thank you and please keep making them... They have been very helpful. I wanted to ask you if you can please recommend 5 or 6 names of really good kanna blade makers that you personally recommend?... And will you please also give me 5 or 6 names of chisel makers too? (I purchase my kanna & chisels through ebay & also through websites I'm able to find in the US, both used and new) I also have one other question for you... When you are looking at online auction sites to buy both kanna & japanese chisels, what things do YOU look for when determining wether or not to buy a kanna or chisel? (What kind of things do you look for when viewing the auction photos?) Thank you very much again for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for the support! As for maker names, it is not quite as simple as listing a bunch of names as different people have different requirements (e.g. budget, rarity, brand name preferences etc). If I was to give a list based on my personal requirements and circumstances, it would go something like this, in order of preference: Kanna: Keizaburo, Ishido - a bit of a gap - Yamamoto, Yokoyama Chisels: Takahashi, Osahiro, Kiyohisa, Hidari Hisa Saku --- maybe Kunikei (I don't own any Kunikei but they are something I do want to try sometime) Being in Japan, I have the luxury of choice and I can usually find stuff for a decent price making the above makers my go to ones. However I do often find good stuff from unknown makers or makers not on the list above for a good price so I will also consider those too. It is all a balance between the various parameters that go into a tool. For example, I love Keizaburo planes but if I see one that is plain but at a medium to high price, I would pass, but if I was to find a rarer one that was astronomical in price, I might consider it. Also in the chisel list above I put Takahashi above Osahiro but as a user, I think I prefer Osahiros but they are extinct now so from an availability standpoint and price etc, Takahashis would win if I were to go looking for a new chisel. When trawling through auctions, I look mainly for construction quality as this almost always directly reflects the quality of the tool. Since I have so much choice I am trying to avoid buying lower quality tools. This goes for both kanna and chisels. I can spot with a pretty good rate of success if a kanna or nomi is worth considering. This only comes with experience unfortunately but you can get a good kick start from the things I've mentioned in previous videos. Which reminds me... I really should do a "how to choose a chisel" type video. I've probably looked at over tens of thousands of listings of tools and own many tens of kanna and chisels so I have a pretty good picture of what the span is in terms of quality. The main factor is the finish quality. It has to be clean and even. The stamp also gives away a lot. It shouldn't look cheesy (I know this is hard to really quantify...). The blade should also be substantial with a good shape. These might sound like abstract terms now but once you look at a few listings, you will see a pattern and you should be able to quickly judge a listing within seconds of looking at the photos. The next thing is the condition. I am more forgiving when judging kanna here since they are much easier to repair. There shouldn't be any major rust, bent blades, majorly deformed backs and there has to be a decent amount of steel left. Dai condition is not a critical factor but I do prefer a cleaner dai to avoid the hassle of patching up etc. For chisels the handle must be sound (not major cracks or splits, decent length, no cutting in from the bottom ferrule) unless it is a really nice chisel in which case I can live with making a new handle myself. Hope that helped and if you need any more clarification just let me know ;)

[@andyryalls]

Wow I just found this its fantastic thank you this is just what we need to help us understand these amazing planes

[@sumokun]

Thanks again for watching :)

[@sumokun]

Thanks and its good to hear you got some info out of it. There's still a whole bunch of stuff not covered but I hope the videos will get people started.

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. I had a look on eBay and saw the plane. It looks OK.The blade is a laminated and simple one and the chipbreaker is of the sheet metal type but the dai looks good. The sticker on the dai indicates that it is a mass produced hardware store kanna, not a kanna which was more handmade. Personally for $133 I would expect more but considering that its probably hard to find kanna outside of Japan its a reasonable price. Tune it up and it will likely be a good user.

[@newinspiration2108]

thank you much for your explanation on Kanna !! got my 1st Senkichi Kanna 65mm 2 months ago and I am totally in love! I do own other Stanley western planes. I do believe the 2 brands are among the standard (not high-end) at all but my Kanna shows much better edge retention and performance! trying to get some more antique or good budget Kanna (maybe), please help navigate if you can

[@sumokun]

+Thanh Huynh Hi, thanks for watching! Senkichi is actually the lowest level of kanna in Japan. It is more for home restoration and DIY than for fine furniture building etc. A normal, even modern, Stanley should be able to do better work assuming both planes are tuned properly. If you are happy with the Senkichi, then you should probably look into a "proper" kanna. You can find used kanna on auctions etc. If you really can't find any, then let me know and I can help as I have a few for sale.

[@newinspiration2108]

+Sumokun dear Sumokun Please dont get me wrong. My Stanley and Senkichi are both contractor grades. I tune up them in the exact same way but my no. 4 does not work as well as the Senkichi 65mm. Well, my Stanley no. 5 is my most favorite, though :D Please send me a message of what you have for sale and pricing. I would really happy to ask you some questions about better grade Kanna.

[@sumokun]

+Thanh Huynh Hi, both are basic grade planes but personally I would take any Stanley over a low end kanna. Stanleys can generally be made to work very well with a bit of work but a kanna that is made poorly is more difficult to patch up and it is temporary. I'll send you a message and you can ask away there ;)

[@davidgoldstein2890]

I want to complement you on your English. It is excellent. Where did you learn to speak it so well.

[@sumokun]

Hi! Thanks for the compliments. I come from the UK so that would probably explain my English haha.

[@MrDonnieBrook]

Great video! Very informative.

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@JackCamino]

Great video, thanks for posting. A question, or two. For any kind of project you can use either, Western or Japanese planes or it is more specific like for this kind of project use Japanese plane and for this other use Western style plane. And the other is about guitar making, I know in a previous comment you said you are not ready to show your work to the public, yet, and I respect that. Can I ask to describe or show the tools you use building each part of a guitar even show your workbench.

[@nickwright7944]

Love your videos! Please, please make one about choosing chisels. Writing from the UK, it's hard to know if it's worth the wait/taxes to buy from someone in Japan (like Stu at ToolsfromJapan) or buy from what's on offer through UK and European importers. Read recently about companies buying in laminated steel, or using laminated steel pressed en mass by machine. Any tricks for avoiding that? And have you tried Kunikei chisels yet? They are available here.

[@yonimartinez8961]

THANK you for this video glad I came across your video I am going to buy me a kanna so thank you for the education

[@sumokun]

Glad it was useful :)

[@rickhickman2730]

Are Wago, or Yamamoto Hitachi blue steel Kanna worth their money? Wago is the Japan Tool brand, and Yamamoto is imported by a gentleman in Canada

[@MihaiStanMrr]

Thank you very much for taking the time to do these videos! That are very helpful. Do you know any online store in Japan that sell the Keizaburo and possibly ship to Europe?

[@sumokun]

Glad you found them helpful! Most places that carry the nicer stuff are smaller shops. I also don't have much experience with ordering from overseas so I'm afraid I can't really help, sorry.

[@osrictentaqclesmin]

Hiya Hope your doing well I’ve been busy on Japan auction; two more Maebiki oga, some setting hammers and a load of mortise chisels, dovetail paring chisels and slicks. Kanna though... If you have time sir what do you think of this? Worth bidding? Chip breaker doesn’t look to match maybe and not so hot. Some rust and a few chips on blade but looks like nothing that can’t be ground away. A bit of beta-ura? Lamination looks not too thick and backing iron from crappy photo uniform and speckled. Sign looks stamped tough. Only interested as looks very wide. Hope you can help thanks

[@T3hJones]

Thanks for all the info! Please post more videos :).

[@mauroaraujo1421]

Thanks for spending your time. Can you recommend woodworking hand tool shops in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto where I can find chisels and planes?

[@sumokun]

Sorry, I can't really make any recommendations since I don't really know of any. I buy pretty much everything online now as it is rare that a physical shop will have something I want if I visit. I find most shops carry either really high end stuff or lower end stuff with not much in between. Buying new is also not something I am really interested in anymore since it doesn't make financial sense for someone like me.

[@JackCamino]

Yeah, I have an office table and I attached a vise to it and at the moment that is my workbench. I plan on building 2 workbenches, one made of 2x4's and another one a little fancier and I would like to see ideas of what is essential on a luthier workbench. Also, once long ago I saw a big beam anchored to a corner and that was inclined, not horizontal; and that was told to be a J workbench. What do you think of those? what is the proper name? Have a nice week.

[@ColinRubbert]

Could you give us a recommendation on where we could buy blades or dai separately. I am struggling to find any reasonably priced kanna blade for purchase in the US or even shipped from Japan that isn't $200-$500 just for the blade. Just would like a good quality affordable blade for learning and growing that isn't hard steel with a ground hollow. A great place for used blades would be nice too. I've been just looking at ebay a bunch.

[@sumokun]

To be honest, I think your best bet is to trawl the usual auction sites. I haven't been looking at overseas vendors for a while now so I'm not really too up to speed but my impression is that prices in general have gone up. This is true of stuff in Japan too. I've mentioned this to other viewers too but buying cheap stuff from overseas doesn't make much financial sense because shipping will make up a large percentage of the total cost. If all you can find is $200~$500 for blade only, then I can probably help. I have a stash of blades and chipbreakers. On the dai front, you might be able to find a retailer of Japanese tools that is local that can help you get a dai cut. In Japan that is the usual method of getting a dai. You can also attempt to cut your own. I also have a bunch of rough cut dai (i.e. they need fitting to the blade) as well. These were all things I planned to use but just never got round to. Anyway, if you'd like to see if I can help, send me a mail to my youtube channel and we can discuss.

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching :)

[@johnirwin6550]

Hi thanks so much for going into such detail the video was super informative. I'm wondering though what size or sizes I should be looking for? I do all types of carpentry and woodworking. I'm assuming the width of the blade as well as the width and length of the die are all factors. Thanks.

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. If you are into all sorts of woodworking, then a 70mm is a must. It is the standard size and it is used from building sized down to smaller items like boxes. The other width I would recommend picking up is a 42mm - 54mm sized one for the more detailed work. As for dai length, the standard lengths should do you fine. You might also want to pick up a long dai kanna in the 70mm or so size too for shooting and jointing. Dai width is determined from the blade width so there isn't much to decide there. Once you get further down the kanna path you would be looking for things like different bedding angles and more sizes to help in harder woods etc. but the above 3 basic kanna will get a lot of work done for you.

[@johnirwin6550]

Sumokun thanks so much for your reply. I look forward to seeing more videos.

[@severynbarabakh1979]

Thank you so much great info. I got mine a few days ago and the blade is loose and sticking out way to far I am not sure which part I need to add or what to do you came out to far

[@sumokun]

Hi, that is a common problem with used planes and it is relatively easily fixed. You basically need to pad up the bed area with some wood or paper and refit the blade. I cover restoring a plane in my other videos and in those videos I cover patching the bed. I also cover patching the sole of the plane so it might be worth watching. It gets a bit long-winded at some points so skip around if you need. If you don't understand something I'm always here to ask as well :)

[@severynbarabakh1979]

Thant is great to know I think its new. I great body buy Inomoto and a blade Tomomitsu , 70mm by Shoichiro Tanaka New old made 27 years from what i understand gret peaces i got for great price I hope . Wish I knew all the things the says on it has Gold colour in the middle . Maybe i can send a photo one day no rush . In the last 3 days The body has goten tighter from humidity so now blade only coming out 3ml on 1 side and 1 on the other . I am in New York and ceapt them seperate for 3 days was hoping it gets a leatle tigter or maybe I will wait a week or 2 for it to settle . Or put blade not all the way in and dampen it a bit then it might tighten . Not sure will spend much more time learning from your wideos .

[@sumokun]

Hi, it isn't unheard of to find new kanna that have poor fit like you describe but considering the dai was made by Inomoto then you shouldn't have any fit issues unless it was modified. To have the blade protrude by 1mm is a lot. You will likely not need to replace the sole like I did but padding the bed will be a good idea.

[@severynbarabakh1979]

I got form same seller 1 auction but as 2 separate items not together the body is really well made and it was 20 $ . The way I learned to convert Japanese prices I just take away the last 2 digits and round up so when I see 20,000 I figure its going to be around 200 us dollars not exact but gives me a fast idea. Is there a way to send you a photo of my plane to see I am in no rush. it fills like the blade is completely flat in the front side but has a curve on the back so I can see light 0.5 ml in the middle and tightens to the sides. I See 10 ways to fix I want to do it correct Thank you so much for all your time . I make beautiful handprinted shirts as well that I draw wit 0.13 pen I will sent you some gifts in the near future.

[@severynbarabakh1979]

I got 42ml. as well that is tight so tunning that one first then I can cut thin layer to fix and tune the other one. this one is white #1 the 70 is blue #2 I will learn a lot from them Thank you for all the help, time and effort.

[@neilfacia4722]

Very informative videos .( thanks for doing them) Any chance you have any good starter kanna for sale ? I live in the uk and it's hard to tell what is good and what is over priced ? Thank you

[@sumokun]

Hi there. I do have a bunch of kanna but exactly what I have available will depend on your budget. One thing to keep in mind is that shipping cost should be something you take into consideration because for cheaper kanna, the shipping cost will end up being a large percentage of the total cost so it won't be such great value. If you want to discuss more feel free to message me on youtube.

[@mauroaraujo1421]

Hi. Thanks very much for all the informations provided and time spent. I bought a nice 60mm blade in an auction but now I have to get the chip breaker and especially the dai for it. I’m not for Japan but I go quite option to Tokyo and Osaka. Can you recommend a place that I can do a nice dai for it?

[@sumokun]

Hi, it depends on what you mean by nice, but just about all the dai shops will require time to cut it. However any tool shop that carries planes will likely be able to offer a dai service too from one of the big dai shops.

[@bonkant6584]

Thanks for the very informative video! I saw a nice kanna blade made by kanehide brand. Is this a good brand in your experience?

[@sumokun]

Hi, I haven't got experience with the Kanehide brand but what I have found online is a plane from Woodcraft. Personally I would avoid it because it doesn't specify the steel used and it looks very basic. If that is all you have available though I guess it is cheap enough to try.

[@babixillo]

hi sumokun, thanks so much for giving your insight on this topic. at where i live, the only kanna available are kakuri, senkichi and takagi brand (which i'm pretty sure they're low end kanna) sometimes tsunesaburo but its very expensive about 25000 yen if converted. i will probably go for the lower end one just to get the feel of a kanna, after watching your video i will probably go for takagi as it use blue steel even if they're slightly more expensive than kakuri or senkichi, am i on the right track or should i just go with the cheapest out of three? (also if you have some decent kanna you want to sell i would be interested to hear)

[@sumokun]

Hi, The three brands you mention are indeed low end kanna brands and personally I would steer away from them if what you are looking for is a true kanna experience. They will be fine for the occasional use or rough planing wood etc but if you want to use the tool frequently to get a good finish, then you really should consider getting a better quality tool. The Tsunesaburo should serve you fine in that regard but if it is out of your budget range, then I would scout out the auctions and used market to find an older but high quality kanna to fix up and use. Another consideration is postage cost. If you buy a cheap kanna, make sure you can get it locally or you will end up paying a good chunk of the kanna's total cost just to ship it which is not really a wise investment. If you really want to go for one of the three you mentioned, then go for the cheapest if cost is a concern, otherwise I would go for the Takagi as it is slightly better than the others. I actually have some kanna to sell but I don't know if any would be in your budget, especially with shipping. You can send me a message on YT if you want to discuss more though.

[@babixillo]

@@sumokun thanks! i will send you an email, seems like youtube removed the messages function

[@johnvincent6171]

I love your video!

[@zidnyknight3611]

thank you

[@borp6912]

What are some respectable lower-tiered kanna brands to look out for such as the NOS kanna you found in the cardboard box?

[@sumokun]

Hi, I can't really recommend brands simply because there are so many, most are OEM with little to no info on who was the original maker, and those with recognisable names are usually more desirable and expensive. Especially for lower priced kanna, you really want to be checking the signs I outline in the videos. They are the most reliable way to judge the quality of an unknown kanna.

[@Dickyweeny]

Do you know anything about the reputation of Fukusaburo? I know he is the father of the first Tsunesaburo.

[@sumokun]

Hi, Fukusaburo kanna aren't rare or premium but they are decent user tools. There are a range of grades available of course but the one I have is very standard and works well. Nothing special but it is a solid choice if it is (relatively) cheap.

[@Dickyweeny]

@@sumokun cost was around 110 usd, would a hideshi ogata or takeo nakano at a similar price be a better deal?

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching :) I'll be uploading part 2 tonight

[@missionron]

Ive got a few really i teresting kanna, some have dragons carved i to the blade..i would LOVE to get any info i can on any of them. I also have a Kiridashi with a carved dragon in some kind of copper lamination. If anything i think you will find them interesting. They are old, vintage..which makes them all the more interesting. I have a konobu kiridashi, so i have a little knowlege and u derstanding of Japanese tools..my Japanese wife also helps :). (She came after the Japanese woodworking tool aquisitions :).

[@sumokun]

+Swedish Holmberg Hi, sure, if you send me a private message or something, I can try and help you out. Generally speaking, tools with dragons and tigers carved on them are not common but not rare either. They are also, generally speaking, not absolute top end in terms of quality, but mostly middle range. I have a few just because I liked the engraving work and they make for fine tools. Some carvings are common ones because they were as standard model in the lineup but others can be custom ones ordered by the original owner etc. If you send over some pictures or something I might be able to tell you more about your specific ones. Like you say, I am always interested in looking at tools so it would be fun just to see them :)

[@paultuell2200]

I purchased a small wooden plane from Japan. I have set up the plane ( a western block sized plane). I have made a bit of a mess but the plane does not have a chipper, and my iron slides out at each pass I have put paper to make some adjustment, but I I am not sure how to keep the iron fixed in place any advice much appreciated.

[@sumokun]

Hi, by the sounds of it, you have shaved too much material away from the bed during the fitting phase. Japanese planes don't rely on the chip breaker to hold the plane down. They rely solely on the wedge-shaped blade fitting tightly into the wedge-shaped mortise to hold it both in the correct adjustment for a proper depth of cut and to hold it without it slipping during use. The fix for your problem is to shim the bed of the plane up with either paper (if only slight adjustment is needed) or thin shavings of wood (if more adjustment is needed). Once the glue has dried you can have another go at fitting the blade. The blade fitting process is one of the most difficult stages for a beginner to understand but it is the most important since it impacts the ease of use of the plane greatly. If you need to pad up the bed by more than a couple of shavings of wood, consider laminating a piece of veneer (1-2mm thick) onto the bed. That will "reset" the fit and you can start from scratch.

[@paultuell2200]

OK Thank you very much. I will see what I can fit into the bed.

[@GibranBisio]

Hi, how are you? I'm looking for my first kanna and this video was pretty enlightening. But my knowledge and budget still very restrict. I find some kakuri 60mm, I think they are industrialized, but they are new and cheap. Do they worth the trouble? Thanks for your time. Love your videos!

[@sumokun]

+Gibran Bisio Hi! Sorry for the late reply, I was on holiday. Kakuri are aimed at the sort of home handyman DIY type person and not really for fine woodworking so if that is what you want it for, then I think it would do the job but it depends on the price. If it is really cheap, then I would give it a go but otherwise I would just recommend you look for a used metal plane to clean up as it will be easier to set up and use for a beginner, not to mention just be of general better quality for the same price. If you are looking to get into Japanese planes specifically, then I would recommend against a Kakuri simply because they are not representative of what a proper Japanese plane can do. Because you are low on budget, you are very limited in what you can get and to be honest, Japanese planes are not cheap and you really do need to get above a certain price point before they become good enough in my opinion to show you what owning a Japanese plane is all about. If you are on a tight budget your best bet is to buy a used plane to refurbish. Don't buy a cheap, new plane because it will just give you trouble. That's how I started out and I was turned off of Japanese planes in the beginning but being where I am, I was basically forced to keep using them so I eventually got some nicer planes and my eyes opened up. Good luck and if you need more help feel free to ask.

[@GibranBisio]

Thanks for your reply, it was very helpful. I just purchased a vintage kanna from ebay, and will have some fun tunning it. I already work with metal and wooden hand planes and want to learn more about the use and care of a kanna. I had bought some nomi chisels and fell in love, so probably will be happy with the kanna to. wen it arrives and I put to work I'll make a video so you can see it. Thanks for the tips!

[@sumokun]

+Gibran Bisio Hi, good to hear you got something :) I'd definitely be interested in seeing how you get along with the plane ;)

[@congvo8512]

Hi Sumokun, I have been lucky enough to acquired two Ishido kannas, however both of them lack the Tokyo Smith's stamp. Are they fake Ishido kannas? I have read on a forum that mentioned Ishido plane without this stamp is most likely fake. It is truly sad if that is true.

[@sumokun]

Hi, it is kind of hard to say without looking at the actual kanna. Fakes do exist and I have one too but they are usually pretty easy to distinguish from the real thing. I don't think you can just say they are fake because they have no stamp but I would be a bit wary and give them closer inspection for other signs.

[@maxs2931]

Without speaking Japanese, is there anywhere to find new old stock blades? or have dais custom made for older blades?

[@sumokun]

+Max S Well, it depends but in general, you can sometimes find NOS blades on auctions. Dai can be recut for a blade but I am not sure who in the West offers this service. Maybe some of the Japanese tool sellers in the US can help? If you are really stuck I also have some NOS blades for sale or can also help you get some. I can also get dai made up but cost is an issue.

[@antoniosjraige3516]

Hi Sumokun, Greetings from Hungary! Could you recommend a kanna for us that would be perfect for mid/hard and hard type of wood. Also, it would be essential that it planes smoothly and finely, so I do not have to sand it down and I could just straight go to varnishing. I was thinking of tsunesaburo maboroshi 60mm? Shall I get a second hand one, or a new one? If you have any recommendation regarding the brand and the place to order it from, please let me know, Antonios

[@sumokun]

Hi, well what kanna to get really depends on a lot of things other than just wood hardness. Just about any average and better kanna will be able to plane smoothly and finely in any wood if set up correctly. The main problem becomes how experienced you are in using and setting kanna up. For a beginner, I wouldn't recommend an expensive, new plane. The main reason is because it has a very high chance of being tuned improperly in some way so you will ruin it. A new and inexpensive plane is a good choice providing you can get a good one. Unfortunately the combination of new, inexpensive and good in a single plane is getting harder and harder to come across. I would recommend a lightly used plane because they are generally of a higher quality for the same price and it will still be in good enough condition to do fine work. The other consideration you need to keep in mind is the wood you are planing and specifically your skill level in using kanna. For easy to plane woods like maple and cherry etc, you shouldn't have any problems with any kanna. Once you get into the harder woods that are tougher to plane like figured Bubinga (and most African woods) or stuff like Rosewoods and Ebonies, you will have a really tough time getting a clean finish with a kanna if you don't get it sharp and set up properly. Getting an expensive plane will not solve this problem so again, buying a new and expensive plane is not recommended. Brands are hard to recommend because once a kanna gets a brand name recognition, you will pay extra for it. As for where to order from, I would check online first. Try to find somewhere close to home. Maybe check out online auctions to see what is available. If you are really stuck I have some available but you will need to factor in the shipping from Japan... Good luck in your search and let me know if you have any more questions ;)

[@antoniosjraige3516]

Hello Sumokun, Thank you for the quick and detailed reply. Just a few more follow up questions: Would you recommend the blue steel? We are thinking about to buy hand made kannas, do you know any trusted place to order it from? We have a friend who lives in Japan, so we can order it from there no problem. What would you say is the average price that I could buy a decent plane? Would you recommend the tsunesaburo maboroshi? Please recommend a few kannas you think is good for a skilled carpenter. Our budget is 35.000 Yen. Thank you once more, let me know if we can help you with anything. Antonios and Attila

[@sumokun]

Hi, well steel choice is not something I would be too concerned with at this stage. First, you have nothing to compare to and second, if you are asking which steel is best, you probably won't have the experience to differentiate between steels yet. Blue steels are the standard and they are good all rounders. I would start there but I wouldn't make the steel choice my main deciding factor. Just about all worthwhile kanna are hand made so I wouldn't worry about that. There are many places to buy from but it really depends on what you are looking for. Not all shops stock or sell all kanna. Some have special order items, others have different specs for the dai etc. I understand the urge to go and get a fancy kanna for your first one but seriously, I would recommend against it. Just get a standard kanna, about 10-20k yen new and learn to use it. Once you get used to it and you have a better idea of what you want from a kanna, plan your next purchase. This is why I suggested to you in my last message to look for a lightly used plane because you will get *much* better quality for the same price. Buying a new kanna these days is quite insane in my opinion because the prices are just way too high for the quality of the tool that you can get in most cases. If you look at old prices for kanna you will be shocked at the difference to current pricing vs quality of tool. Back just 10-15 years ago, you could get a top quality tool for 10k yen no problem but now, due to supply and demand, a similar tool will cost you upwards of 30k yen. If you are collecting kanna it is a different story but for users, I would stick with used planes if you are on a budget. As for Tsunesaburo... well, I have written a few comments on my videos regarding my opinion on them and the short answer is that they are OK performers but for the price I would pass. Tsunesaburo kanna are more mass manufactured than other smaller makers' offerings and that is the reason they can churn out such large numbers of such a huge variety of planes. Personally, if I am going to spend that kind of money on a plane, it has to offer more than just being a piece of steel welded to an iron back. I can't really recommend any specific models of kanna in your budget range because all the kanna I would consider buying new go over 40k yen easily. These are mainly for collection purposes. For my main users, I look for good kanna that are old and used but I can't recommend any specifics because availability obviously depends on timing and in most cases, the names are obscure and you are unlikely to find another. I also have a lot of kanna I use from the named makers but that is because I am a little bit of a kanna nut. They don't perform amazingly better than my old planes. Hope that helps!

[@antoniosjraige3516]

Thank you Sumokun once more for the answers. In that case, I will go with a lightly used kanna. Do you have one for sale, or do you know places (in Japan) where we can buy from. Budget is still 35.000 Yen and blue steel ( or better). Let me know, Attila and Antonios

[@sumokun]

Hi, you can find kanna at the usual places (flea markets, auctions, used tool shops... etc). For 35000 yen you can get a very nice plane. Even though that is your maximum budget, I wouldn't spend that much. Maybe half of that is more realistic. Again, steel choice shouldn't be a major factor at this stage. Just get something that is of good quality and get used to how it works and how to set it up. I can guarantee that unless you are only planing easy to plane woods, you will have trouble setting the kanna up to take a fine cut and to leave a surface good enough for finishing. You will need to clear this hurdle regardless of how much money you spend on your kanna. Only when you are past that stage will you start to appreciate the qualities of the various steels and how they react to being sharpened and used in the woods you plane. I do have some for sale so if you have no luck looking for some kanna send me a message and we can discuss.

[@mightymitzi]

Hi Sumokun , thank you for very informative video. I'm an artist and just starting out with woodworking. I saw online a Tsunesaburo 9 piece Japanese Kanna Joinery Plane Set for aprox $493AUD = 37,236.20Yen. A lot of money to spend but is this good value and a good way to start?

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. I generally would avoid sets of any kinds because it is very rare you will need or use them all. Specialist planes I would avoid even more because they require very careful setup in order to work well and are not for the kanna beginner. For the price, I am going to assume these planes are not a full size set because you can almost expect to pay about that much for a *single* decent quality specialist plane. If you want to grab them now as an investment for when you are ready later, they might be a good purchase, but I would very carefully consider what you actually need and just purchase those specific planes.

[@mightymitzi]

@@sumokun Thank you. Good advice. I will avoid. But having difficulty finding something suitable that's not too costly.

[@neilfacia4722]

I would like a good kanna (maybe 70mm for woodworking and perhaps a smaller one as well for general carpentry ) and also maybe 6 good chisels 3mm to 25 or 30 mm. I do live in the uk ( I'm not sure what shipping costs are like from Japan ? Let me know what you think ? Thank you

[@sumokun]

Hi, I have a few 70mm kanna available. Most are mid-range (it's where the best "bang for buck" can be had so that's what I tend to pick up). I have some lower end kanna too but they will need more work and shipping costs probably make them not so great in terms of value. Shipping is about 10-15 gbp for a single 70mm kanna if I remember correctly. Smaller kanna I don't have many of, if any. They are much harder to come across on the used market generally because they are more specialised compared to the 70mm ones. Chisels, I have a few sets of 10 but no smaller sets. I also don't have enough individual chisels to make a set up either unfortunately.

[@neilfacia4722]

Oh also did you have any chisels and a smaller plane as well (like a 150mm (block length ) ? I'm not sure if it's cheaper on postage to send all at once ? Maybe not . Let me know what you think . Thank you 😊

[@neilfacia4722]

@@sumokun hi sorry I think I missed the other half of your message until now. (Re postage and chisels etc.. ) What sort of price would I be looking at for the 70mm Kanna? Also may be interested in a set of 10 chisels 🤔😊 Also do you have a pic of it and maybe a little info ?(blue steel ? I'm planning on using it mainly on hard wood like oak and cherry ) Thank you for your help.

[@sumokun]

Hi, I removed your post with your address because you probably don't want to put that info on a youtube comment :p For a 70mm kanna, you are looking at around 10k yen give or take. I'll have a dig around and see what Blue Steel ones I have and get you some pictures. Chisels, it depends on what your budget is but for a set of 10, you are looking at something like 30k yen and up. I have a couple of sets of like 8 or 9 too (were sets of 10 but some were lost by the previous owner) which are cheaper. If you send me an email or something I can forward you some pictures and discuss more etc. (Don't put your mail address here for security reasons, send me a mail through my channel instead by going to my About tab of my channel).

[@neilfacia4722]

@@sumokun oh ya ! Sorry I don't message on you tube much 😁

[@bwang1848]

Hi Sumokun, Great video! After watching a few of your videos, I’m interested to learn and use the kanna plane. I’m a newcomer, would you please recommend a starter kanna for a novice? Thank you.

[@sumokun]

Hi, well for a beginner, I would recommend a solid, medium level plane as per the video. I can't give specific maker names because it really depends on where you live and the budget you have. Just look for something that is in nice condition and that is of good quality. It doesn't need to be new or from a brand name maker. The best bargains are in old blades as they are generally very well made for the price they command. You need to be careful when looking at the details though to make sure you get a good quality one. If you need more help then let me know through a message or something.

[@bwang1848]

Thank you for the prompt response. I live in Ottawa, Canada and my source of sellers is via ebay/Amazon. I’m contemplating either to acquire a Stanley block plane (US$40+) or a starter kanna (US$50+). Please advise.

[@bwang1848]

Hey Sumokun, I have a POLAROID SX-70 LAND CAMERA - SONAROneStep (stainless steel with black leather exterior) is just sitting there and collecting dust. Would you like to see what you can do with it? Please let me know, if you are interested. I will be more than happy to send it to you. [e-mail]

[@sumokun]

Hi, with that budget, and assuming you are buying new, I would 100% go with a Stanley block plane. If you can get a nicer vintage one, even better. I wouldn't recommend a new kanna in this range because they will have a badly cut body and the blade will be substandard. A Stanley however will need some initial cleanup and truing of surfaces etc but once you do that, it will be a good, dependable tool. If you are OK with a used kanna, then it would be worth a look to see what is available in your area but you will probably be in for some rust removal and grinding of the blade and chipbreaker, and also some patching up of the body. This isn't too difficult but it is something that will take some time. What you should be looking for is a good quality blade. Something with a nice finish and something not too beat up. The body is of secondary importance as it can be patched up to be usable (it is wood after all).

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for your kind offer for the camera. Unfortunately, the SX-70 and its siblings are not really convert-able to a camera using current films. I have a few myself but I am keeping them around just in case the Impossible Project succeeds in making a viable film again. Otherwise they are pretty much only good as (very nice) shelf ornaments. I really love mine even though I can't use them so I can't bear to throw them away. I would hang on to yours or even try selling it on ebay if you really want to get rid of it because they have a bit of a cult following.

[@jespero93]

So i have a question: I cant seem to get a shaving from my kanna? It bought in Japan about 6 months ago and i tried to tune it up but it was so difficult. I can manage to get really thick shavings but nothing thinner than like a millimeter. If i go all to the end of the board it manages to "hook" on to the end grain but if i try to start a shaving in the middle it just wont take. It costs about 8000 yen and the fit was (in my opinion) horrible. So heres what i have tried to do, I have installed a dovetail key on the bottom to manage to get the mouth tighter. And i have put paper on the bed to make a tighter fit. However i havent checked the flatness of the sole or anything so could that be a problem? And could the reliefs, which arent there at the moment (on the sole) be a problem aswell? Should i reflatten the sole and scrape out the hollows again? I really want to make it work, cause theyre so fun to use. And i think they make a smoother surface than my regular western planes.

[@sumokun]

If you are getting 1mm thick shavings as a minimum then something is very wrong ;) Your description of it being able to hook onto the end of the board but not being able to start a shaving in the middle suggests to me either your plane sole is concave or your board is concave. For 8000 yen new, you can't expect a particularly high quality kanna but with some work, any kanna should be able to take a shaving thinner than 1mm. A tight mouth doesn't really affect the shaving thickness as long as it is not gaping wide. Even a mouth of 3mm or so is usable. Having the mouth too tight however can make taking thicker shavings impossible so I would not really touch the mouth as the first thing to try. If you haven't checked the flatness of the sole, then you should do so right now. It is the first thing that needs attention to get a well performing kanna. Hollows can come later and are of secondary importance. You can't create a flat surface with a plane that has a warped sole. Once you flatten the sole, check the board you are working with. if it is warped then you won't get a clean shaving right away because the blade might not be in contact with the surface. On the high spots though, you should be able to get a shaving. Once you figure out what the problem is, then you can start scraping the hollows to fine tune.

[@jespero93]

Allright. So first step is to flatten sole. Will sandpaper and a flat reference surface do the job? And should i leave the dovetail key in while i do it? After that, just try to take shavings and proceed from there? If it handles well should i just leave it as it is or should i try to make some small hollows? Sorry for all these questions. I really appreciate you answering so quickly!

[@sumokun]

Sandpaper and a flat surface should suffice at this stage. The dovetail is only there to close up the mouth (?) so just leave it there. If you are sure the rest of the plane is set up correctly, then you should be able to take nice shavings. You can then scrape in some hollows depending on the sort of plane you are setting it up for. If you are taking 1mm shavings, then the blade might be too loose in the slot as well. The blade should be held solidly in the slot when it is set for a fine cut. If not, then pad up the bed. I also take it that you have sharpened up the blade properly. It needs to be sharp. If it is not sharp, it will just scrape along the wood and not cut. A sharp blade will basically pull the kanna into the work as you pull it so you shouldn't need too much downward pressure. If you find you need to really press down to get a shaving, and you are sure your surfaces are all flat, then your blade will need sharpening. You can leave the chipbreaker out at this stage.

[@jespero93]

So i got the plane flat and checked for twist and stuff (will do that again to be sure) and i can get some better shavings now. Still however, it is not nearly as good as i want it. Could it be the fact that i have like a billion bevels on the blade, that makes it glide along the surface? Cause basically, i suck at sharpening aswell, so i tried some different bevels but changed midway and now there is more of a round to the bevel (which, when cutting becomes the bottom). Can that make a difference? Cause when i flatten a piece with my jackplane, and i make sure it is flat, the kanna still sort of just glides along (not all the time but most) I hate it.

[@sumokun]

Well lots of bevels in itself isn't a problem but if the final bevel is too steep (nearly the same as bedding angle or even greater), then the bevel has no room to clear the wood underneath it and it won't cut well or at all. Kanna are bedded at 37 degrees or so as standard so a 30 degree bevel is already pushing the limits... Is there a reason you are trying various bevels? Or is the reason you can't get a single flat bevel because you can't hold the blade steady while sharpening? First, I would try and get a 28 or so degree bevel for the blade. Kanna blades when properly maintained should be easier to sharpen than a standard Stanley type blade. They are so fat they just register themselves on the stone. If you can get your jack plane blade sharp enough to take a satisfactory shaving, then you should be able to do the same with a kanna. If you are absolutely sure the work and the kanna sole are flat, then the only other things that can cause the behaviour you describe is a dull blade (or wrong bevel), the blade corners being wider than the mouth, or the blade is not protruding at the correct depth of cut. If those three conditions are met, then it could be your planing technique or the work and sole aren't as flat as you imagine.

[@jeffreywinders8237]

Do you have a web-site for purchasing planes or a list of manufactures you can suggest?

[@sumokun]

Hi, unfortunately I don't. The manufacturers really depend on whatever you can get and your budget. Most of the manufacturers that are active today produce a good product so I wouldn't worry too much about it for your first plane. Just avoid really cheap planes and you should be fine (assuming you buy new).

[@countryelementwoodshop9972]

What do you think about the brand Senkichi or Kakuri? Or any brands that you would recommend to a Canadian woodworker?

[@sumokun]

Bi, they are both DIY level brands and I wouldn't consider them good enough for serious woodworking. I am not sure what is available in Canada so I can't give specifics but I would recommend trawling the auctions as a first choice.

[@alyriatutoring5697]

I agree. I've bought 3 Senkichi Kanna, mostly because I kept messing up the blades/dai in setup. I've never had nice kanna, and I've done everything I can flattening the soles, prepping the ura one diamond plates, etc. they're not bad, I got 11 micron shavings on pine. But I feel they dull quickly and are prone to chipping. And they required a ton of dai setup and the chip breaker is not very Good, and all three Kanna had really different dai so they're manufacturing is very inconsistent. I feel it's good to start, because setting up the Kanna is very Time consuming and can be overwhelming to a first timer and spending 300+ dollars on a nice one and then messing it up can be terrible. I recommend learning on them. But don't feel you can finishing projects wth them. And the blades sit funny in the dai, the mouth opening is huge and the blade is askew yet protrudes out to cut evenly...again, just got a really quality instrument but a good learner. I bet the hagane steel is not tempered well.

[@hdjg1]

Country Element Woo

[@bowsoftheworld1430]

Hello Sumokun, thank you for your very interesting videos, they are full of very valuable information and well done. I have an old kanna that I believe is of relatively good quality so I would like to restore the dai. I would like to have your opinion and ask you some questions if you don't mind. Could you tell me how to message you and send you pictures in private? I could not find a way to message you from your KZbin profile. Thanks again !

[@sumokun]

Hi! Thanks for watching! Sure you can mail me. You should be able to find my mail address on the About tab of my channel page. You need to click the "show email" button. I think this only works on PC.

[@bowsoftheworld1430]

Hey Sumokun, sadly I cannot find you email address on your profile, I don't know why the button does not appear. It also seems like I can't send you my email address by comment. Do you have another place where I could find your email / contact you? Thanks a lot

[@sumokun]

Hi, sadly I am not sure how else I can give you my email. As a suggestion, could you try entering you email here but instead of the usual "at" marks and full stops (periods), leave a space so that the automatic detector doesn't pick it up? I will then delete it as soon as I see it.

[@bowsoftheworld1430]

Did my message go through this time?

[@sumokun]

@@bowsoftheworld1430 Hi, I just checked and there are no messages/mails. Could you post you mail here without the "at" and full stops please? I'll delete it as soon as I read it.

[@denesmarschalko9958]

Very good video. Thank you for publishing it. What plane you recommend for slicing wood for parquetry seen on Yosegi puzzle boxes. 寄木細工職人、本間 昇さんとヅクを作る。 Thanks,

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. For yosegi there is no special requirement except that the plane's cutting width be larger than the width of the zuku slice. Also you'd need to open up the mouth a bit to let the shaving pass. Any good quality plane will do. It doesn't have to be one of the "brand name" ones. For the larger pieces, you will obviously need a large plane and the skill there is from sharpening perfectly straight and tuning and adjusting the plane to cut an even slice... which is quite a challenge for such a large plane.

[@denesmarschalko9958]

Sumokun Thank you so much!

[@sumokun]

dennis marschal No problem ;)

[@fridunanti]

Hi, you should opewn a selling company. We don´t have addresses and if we would have some, then their pages are in japan so we don´t come further. what do you say about it? I personaly would be interested about one in prise range 10 - 15 000 Yen.

[@sumokun]

fridunanti Hi, I actually was planning on opening a site where I could put up all the planes I found for sale. I was planning to offer them as is or to tune them up before selling. The problem is currently I'm way too busy to manage a shop and clean/tune the kanna on a larger scale. For a sale every now and then, I could probably manage so if you are interested, send me a private message through youtube and we can discuss details :)

[@bereitsschon819]

hi Sumokun, nice video! I'm a woodworker from germany and I'm very interested in the performance of a kanna compared with an europan kanna^^ but there is a little problem for me to get one because those which i could buy are starting at 90€ only for commen one and the other are professional ones and they start over 400€... so maybe you can help me? (:

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for watching. Well it kind of depends on the price range you are looking at but I can probably help. Send me a message and we can talk more about what you are looking for.

[@sumandl]

great video. Subscribed!

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@patbassman8251]

Hi you have a British accent so i have to correct you , the Americans call a ( cap iron ) a chip breaker , we British call it a ( cap Iron ) for the Iron not blade .

[@pete188100]

Great video, what's your opinion on Tsunesaburo Kannas? Thanks

[@sumokun]

Hi, well, personally, I think Tsunesaburo kanna are perfectly fine functionality-wise, but they aren't my first choice because for roughly the same amount, there are "better" choices. At the cheaper end, unless you need a new kanna, I would go for a clean, used one, and at the mid and higher price range, I would go with another maker. The reason I don't like Tsunesaburo as much as other smaller makers is because they are oriented a bit more towards mass production than the smaller makers so they lack a bit of personality. I also don't like the finish of their planes from an aesthetic point of view. They look pretty tacky compared to the more understated, hand-made look of the smaller makers. As a tool though, they are fine. The one thing they do have going for them is the availability. They are usually in stock and are available from a variety of sources due to their more factory like operation. The makers I like are usually back ordered for a few months to a year or even more.

[@tooljunkie555]

GOOGLE says 1800 yen is $16.31usd and 10,000 yen is $91.00-$92.00 U.S.D But still $100.00 is a great price for 1st kanna or western style plane. I've bought quite a few off of Japan woodworker. if you spend $200 -$300 USD you will be very satisfied I know I was in his still am only sharpened at one time in the two-and-a-half 3 years I've had it as far as reworking the dai ive had to do that a couple of times you get what you pay for right?? :) and I plan on buying many more thanks for sharing this information very knowledgeable except for the pricing little off but that's okay that's what Google's for LOL

[@sumokun]

Hi, the prices in the video are a little outdated mainly because the makers are now upping their prices due to lower demand and higher costs of living etc. However I still recommend you don't go over about $200-$250 for your first kanna simply because you are likely to run into problems with it either through setting up or tuning it or maybe you just find out you don't get along with kanna in general. If you've only sharpened once over a span of about 2-3 years, either you don't use it much or it is dull and you haven't realised it. It is really important to make sure your kanna are sharp to get the most out of them and by that I mean they need to be shaving sharp at the absolute minimum. Many beginners (me included) don't know what sharp is in the beginning and it tends to stick with them through their woodworking life until something clicks and they figure it out. Prices outside of Japan are always going to be a bit higher as well but that is why I would recommend buying off of auctions or somewhere similar and look for either NOS or used planes that are good quality that you can clean up. You will notice that all the samples I showed in the video fall into those two categories. Buying new is fine but you will pay a premium for the condition and the name. There are very few brand new kanna I would recommend to a beginner simply because they are generally overpriced for the spec and there are better options available. If price is not such a concern though and you want the peace of mind of a new kanna and to avoid the hassle of searching for a used one, then I would say go for it. In the end if you are happy with the tool then that is what counts so it is good to hear that you are getting along with your purchase and are looking into getting more! :)

[@tooljunkie555]

Sumokun yes i am very pleased with kanna. Love it when i do use it. And you got me I don't use my plane very often only because reconditioning the dye take such a long time and to be completely honest I'm a little bit impatient which I'm working on I know patience is everything in woodworking so I definitely need to work on my patience but you bring up a good point about the pricing I was not saying it in an insulting way by any means I was just really surprised to see the price difference when I Googled it cuz I don't know anything I Google everything LOL will you seem very knowledgeable about the kanna and respect your opinion the shavings I take with mine are so thin that I could see the writing on a dollar bill when I hold it up to the light I love the way it makes the wood shine 2 that's the one thing that kind of turn me on to the kanna and when it comes to him planes I'm not afraid to spend money as long as I get what I pay for you know what I mean I have purchased used before and there were chips in the blade when I was told the blade was razor sharp and like new do you have any suggestions for any websites to look into used planes I forget if you mentioned any in the video :-) and thanks for taking the time to reply I appreciate that

[@sumokun]

Yep, finding out you need to tune up the dai just before getting to work is annoying. It doesn't take long though if you do it regularly. Maybe a minute or two. Don't worry, I didn't take any offence in your pricing comment ;) There is definitely a price difference now compared to when I made the video but the biggest discrepancy in price remains the fact that pretty much all overseas based shops etc have to include a markup in price compared to Japan and some shops, mainly in the US, have a ridiculous premium added. For used planes, assuming you are outside of Japan, you will probably have the best luck on auction sites. You have to be patient and be sure to look over the pictures before you buy though. There are probably fewer bargains to be had now compared to before but they do still exist. Good Luck!

[@sumokun]

There isn't anything really special needed for a luthier workbench. The big thing is workholding and apart from a vise, you'll need some jigs. Things like neck holding jigs for carving, binding cutting jigs, guitar forms, go bar deck, shooting board... The list is almost endless. Japanese workbenches are basically a slab of wood raised up off the floor a little. Again they rely a lot on jigs and its a different way of working than a Western bench.

[@XerosXIII]

so I was gonig to DIY a doghouse... wonder how I got here lol

[@sumokun]

Oh hey haha, thanks for watching ;)

[@xorbodude]

could be more structured. I hope you write a script beforehand and address key points rather than rambling

[@sumokun]

Hi, thanks for the feedback! There is always a fine balance between providing detailed information and rambling doing videos like these. Some people like the info short and fast while others want all the details no matter how small, and personally, especially regarding this subject matter, I think you can never have too much information because believe it or not, the info presented here is very much simplified and there is much more to kanna than what is here. I am open to feedback though so could I ask what parts you felt were ramble-y? Thanks!

[@sumokun]

Thanks for watching!