Tips on Reliable Operation of Dillon XL 750 + Mark 7 Autodrive

[@acidj0urney]

Thanks for the videos! Big help!

[@D-LineReviews]

So can you bypass priming if you want? So do brass prep, then do priming , then do powder and loading in final pass?

[@Live-rw8mg]

thanks for you Dacapping tool tip ;)

[@angelscomputers]

Ive been running mine for 3 months and so far 4 indexing rings, countless 9mm brass smashed on station one, the bullet feeder doesnt drop a bullet 5 out of 10 times or drops 2 at the time ( didnt knew about the rubber band mod ) but the most annoying issue and the reason i gave up and going to sell it is the primer system issue, every maybe 50 rounds a case fails to get primed, the machine continues working and later I find the mess of powder everywhere. Now, it makes sense to run a case prep first for swaging and maaaaaaybe that fix the issue but gosh, im so frustrated that I dont want to drop more money on this thing. If Mark 7 comes one day with a priming sensor like they have for the 1050 then I will be in love with the machine but the priming issue got me so frustrated. I have more powder in my floor than in my powder containers.

[@jwedgest67]

Good information I've been waiting on people to drop video's, more information for all is better. From my experience your running your machine way to hard (1800) that"s a lot of stress on that setup but if it works for you, then great, but I would say slow it down, you will save yourself some money. Thanks for your tips though, you gave me a few things that I also need to look at. You have a New Subscriber!!!

[@garykfko]

These days I run it at mostly at 900 - 1200. It's less likely to have an issue that require my intervention. I just sit there a little bit longer which isn't a big deal, I just watch two TV episodes instead of one before I go back into the house.

[@jwedgest67]

@@garykfko I'm glad to hear that you slowed it down, let us know your results. My setup is finicky, and a few things you discussed I have looked over and it did help, thanks again.

[@contactericjones]

Thank you for the videos on the Mark 7. I've watched everything out there and you had the most useful information. I'm curious, what bullet feeder you're using?

[@garykfko]

3d printed

[@andrewryan614]

What kind of grease are you using?

[@D-LineReviews]

Wish they made a swagesense swage it ….. be awesome

[@manoli.k]

I’ve got about 40k cycles through my Mark 7 on my XL750 so far and I haven’t found the ring indexer to be breaking every 4-5k rounds. I’ve had one break. Is it possible you may be running it a bit too aggressively on the Torque Sense? Most of the time when I’m brass processing I have my torque sense setting on 1 (sometimes I have to up it to 2 if it’s really cold outside). I also have the index speed slightly slowed as it seems to also help with reliability of primer seating and doesn’t affect throughout a whole lot. I haven’t been brave enough to run mine at 1800rph. I’ve got one of the new FW Arms decapping pins on order (the one with the pin that snaps when it kicks the primer out). Looking forward to speeding up my brass processing with it.

[@garykfko]

I run my torque sense at 2-3 when loading, and over 5 when brass processing at 1800 rph - at lower torque sense settings I get stoppages at that speed. I think that was definitely the reason why the ring indexer broke prematurely. Lately I have been loading only, and kept settings at 5 clutch 2 torque at around 800 rph with top slowdown. 15k rounds loaded with the same ring indexer. Next time I do batch brass processing I am going to slow down from 1800 rph and try to keep torque sense below 3 to see if it helps.

[@angelscomputers]

@@garykfko how you guys can run the torque sense at 2-3? Mine has to be at 7 or 8 because if not it stops every time it resizes, definetly this systems are made to do case prep first?

[@angelscomputers]

which type of resizing die you are using? because my resizing die it stops the machine if I set it less than 7 or 8. Of course I have been through 4 indexing rings since got the machine 3 months ago

[@manoli.k]

@@angelscomputers I use the Dillon resizing die. But I also use a light coating of homemade case lube (1 oz lanolin oil to 12 oz red iso heet). Really saves your indexing rings and makes the machine run smooooth.

[@falcon328]

How hard is it switching calibers Like 9mm to 40? Do you just need to adjust the bullet sensor? I switch calibers every 1k-1500, I just think its cool with the failsafe and its running by itself.

[@garykfko]

Very easy. One toolhead per caliber and just swap it. Install the correct caliber conversion kit. Adjust powder. That’s normal stuff you would do to change caliber anyways. For mark 7 specific sensors, you adjust the powder check rod to the new charge (just adjust the heigh of the rod by screwing it in or out), and you move the bullet sensor up or down depending on the new OAL, that’s it. Different calibers like different mark 7 settings (digital clutch, torque sensor, etc). Once you find the sweet spot, you write it down and go back to them in the future.

[@falcon328]

@@garykfko Thanks! I have 3 calibers on all toolheads right now of 8, I kept hearing its difficult to change over and only should buy if you're sticking to one caliber. I havent found any videos on setting up new dies with the autodrive, is that difficult at all?

[@garykfko]

B m that hasn’t been my experience. I have 6 toolheads - a pistol case prep, a 223 case prep (with a rt1500 trimmer), and 4 caliber loading toolheads (9,40,45,223). it’s really no different from setting up a toolhead without the autodrive. The autodrive really just pulls the handle for you. A clamped toolhead really helps with consistency when you change toolheads. The biggest setup problem is the seat and crimp die, when you switch a toolhead something may be slightly off and the crimp height / seating depth is also off. Just waste 2-3 rounds to dial it in - put one through, case gauge / plunk test, adjust crimp if necessary, put in a round at correct oal, screw down the seater so it touch that round (so you get the same seating depth), and you are going to be close. I am so used to doing this that it takes maybe 5 minutes. Then run the machine, caliper the first few rounds, and make small adjustments on the seater. Within 10 rounds I get my oal. The other is the powder drop. Get a powder bar with click adjustments. For each load I developed, I write down how many clicks from the smallest setting to get to the correct charge. From the get to I am usually already within 0.2 grains of my target charge. Anyways I batch up the work - a whole bucket of brass, a few thousand rounds of the same load each time - etc. some people practice in one division and use just one load, makes total sense for them to have just one machine for that. Me, depending on my mood, I do idpa (my production home defense gun), uspsa limited, uspsa pcc, and uml 3 gun. I don’t have enough money for multiple dedicated machines :).

[@BobBob-il2ku]

I have a 650 it just seems like if your going to go through the expense of automating might as well go apex 10 or atleast dilllon 1100 Also have had same results with swage it the brass will fail before anything breaks

[@garykfko]

If I knew what I know now, I would have gone for an automated mark 7 evo right away, but that's 5000 - 6000 up front cost which was way too much for me as a newbie back then. I spent less than $1000 on a XL750 to get started, and slowly automated it over time as I got a good sense of my practice volume. It's also much cheaper to change calibers on the XL750. Currently I load 4 calibers. I think eventually I will get an automated apex 10 dedicated to loading 9mm for production and pcc, and the automated XL750 for .40 limited.

[@D-LineReviews]

@@garykfkoseems like a lot of indexing rings to match the cost of apex 10 ….. what is it that makes you go apex 10 that you learned?