Tirumph TR7 FHC Restoration: Attaching Gearbox to Engine

There is a little work finishing off some torquing of bolts, changing a seal and gasket and then installing flywheel, clutch and gearbox
#tr7 #triumph #gearbox #clutch

[@LorneKelly]

Thanks Henry, I will follow your advice on torquing the head bolts....your Dad was correct on the oil pump o-ring only...

[@HenrysGarage]

Looking forward to the second part of your engine rebuild

[@ChrisFEJackson]

Cheers Henry! You have memory like mine, I'm always leaving stuff I need behind! like my wallet ;)

[@HenrysGarage]

You and me both! I left my parents to head south at 4am, turning back 10 minutes later bacause I had left my wallet behind!

[@jeffmuso]

I’m looking for a video on the front main crank oil seal wondering if you can help me out I need to put one in TR7 1979 thank you have a good day. Love your site.

[@HenrysGarage]

Hi Jeff, I will have either used a large socket or square of wood to sit on top and then tapped it in place. I would apply a little lubricant to both surfaces first to help it slip in place. Glad you like the channel.

[@kippyswedge4315]

Kudo's Henry . A very well presented video of which I shall try to learn from :)) Mating the engine gearbox can be a real trial at the best of time . May I suggest the very cheap plastic clutch alighnment tool , as you mentioned you'd left behind already, but also using at least 2 studs in the engine, as opposed to just the one you had evident that I could see, as that may help getting the input shaft into the spigot bearing inside the crankshaft just that little bit easier. I don't mean that as critical comment but rather as anobservation. Having said that these things sometimes fight us all the way. Subscribed!!!!!!!!!! kippy

[@HenrysGarage]

Hi Kippy, I do have a cheap plastic clutch alignment tool for the Stag which I forgot to take with me. I don't know if it fits the TR7, but the tool I borrowed was excellent and suitable for any car so I'll be getting one. And using 2 studs instead of 1 is absolutely the way to go. I eventually got it lined up by using a startermotor bolt but a second stud makes a huge amount more sense! Thank you. I will be using this approach on the green car

[@kippyswedge4315]

@HenrysGarage I do like your videos. It's not easy, well for me anyway, to do the work while describing what you're doing without getting tangled up brain to speech. You do well. Regards Michael

[@philking7505]

Hi, that's my next job, so the post is a great help (although watching your struggles may give me nightmares before then). Quick question, are there no gaskets required between bell housing and the engine and gearbox faces?

[@ChrisFEJackson]

No need for gasket on bell housing to engine. There are oil seals on the engine, you can see that prior to Henry putting on flywheel, where he said he had to get sump off as he had dropped a blade into it. Good luck with your TR, this must be very informative for you.

[@HenrysGarage]

As Chris says, no gaskets between the bellhousing and engine but there is a seal behind the flywheel and there is a gasket in the unit holding the seal.

[@HenrysGarage]

The trick in the end, which I didn't get on video, was (obviously you need to line them up as closely as possible first) first make sure you've got the bottom of the bellhousing over the support from the sump. Then use a few clamps and starter motor bolts to bring the two units together. Do this very slowly and carely ensuring that if you tighten a bolt/clamp then the two units actually move together slightly - the first time we tried this we didn't have it over the sump support and we were just tightening the clamps. Once we got it started with this method, it went quite quickly. If you've got dollies or a gearbox stand it will be alot easier

[@philking7505]

@@ChrisFEJackson Thanks, yes I renewed the oil seal, I was actually thinking there was a possibility for water/ grime etc from the outside getting in, but that will make life easier if not required. Thanks, it's a great help.

[@philking7505]

@@HenrysGarage Thanks for the information, I did the job on a Triumph Herald donkeys years ago from inside the car, but I obviously got lucky as it slid straight in with a tap or two. Your answer is a huge help, thanks a lot.

[@theflyingsquad4585]

Henry , I have in my shed a nearside door for a convertible also a boot lid both in white and good condition, yours for free if any use for you ?

[@HenrysGarage]

Yes please. Where are you based so I know if I can collect or need to arrange delivery

[@redfoxclassics]

When the engine goes in, what’s left to do? Feels like you won’t be too far from having it drivable?

[@HenrysGarage]

I'm working on 2 different cars. For the white one, brake and fuel pipes, reattach rear suspension and petrol tank and some welding (I think). For the green car, fuel line, carepts, seats, recheck electrics and probably loads more

[@redfoxclassics]

@@HenrysGarage yeah it was the white one I was thinking of, does sound like it’s getting close!

[@HenrysGarage]

White one requires welding which I hadn't originally planned on. The more work I do the more welding I see needs doing - 3 more weeks (visits) I think before trying to find all the little bits that need doing to make it work. 1. Read suspension/fuel tank (short week). 2. Engine/Propshaft install (short week). 3. Welding (long week). It will then need painting etc but I am planning on doing that slowly over time. Initially it is going to be a mishmash or patches.