TLR 22 2.0 Finished Build

Hey guys, this is the project you all have been waiting for! I apologize for how long it took me to give you guys an update on this buggy, but I wanted to wait until my buggy was at a state that I approved. Anyways in the future I plan on making a "weight loss" series where I add lighter parts to the vehicle to decrease the overall weight. Stay tuned for more!

[@christopherkouri2317]

Really clean install. Nice job!

[@lornehutton7229]

SWEET CAR I CANT WAIT TO GET MINE BUILT. MY 1ST PRO BUGGY WELL MY 1ST BUGGY

[@TheRcworld101]

Got a little tip for u you might want to do a video on just give me that credit Hahahaha. But I wanted to say "ripping tire off the bead" when u said u had to re glue your slicks. In 1/8 racing we have to do this because of power in ebuggy and nitro and I thought you should try it to. When I get my proline wheels I use scotch bright scuff pad and scuff the head where it feels abrasive this will let the glue bond to the wheel much stronger. I do this on my 1/10 wheels both 2.2 and 2.4 and all my 1/8 cars!

[@RCGrid]

+TheRcworld101 Thanks for the tip! Since I made this video, I have actually been using a Dremel on the beads of my tires, and then using some sandpaper on the wheels. Seems to do the trick!

[@drifting1O1]

have you tried moving your rear shocks inboard? a guy at my lock track turned me on to it and so far i have really like the stability it seams to add. but haven seen to many others that know you can do it . try it out some time you might like it.

[@RCGrid]

drifting1O1 Inboard? that would require modification and wouldn't handle well...

[@RCGrid]

RC Grid Are you referring to drilling the 4th hole on the shock tower?

[@customfastrc7671]

Great channel. I know a trick to get rid of the slop from aluminum bearing carriers. I have a few video on my channel that shows how. Awesome job

[@RCGrid]

Thanks, I've resolved the issue since this video

[@ZAKRC]

I know the cars a bit old, but what chassis would you prefer, the exotek all carbon fiber chassis or the tlr -2.5mm chassis? Id like to loose a ton of weight for stock class but I also want it to handle better.

[@RCGrid]

You might have good results with the exotek chassis since it has the battery mounted similarly to the 3.0 as well as other features. Also like you mentioned, you would lose a lot of weight. However I've heard from some that they preferred the aluminum exotek chassis rather than the carbon chassis plate, because the low center of gravity is lost with the carbon chassis. If I built my car again, I'd rather get the exotek aluminum chassis rather than the -2.5mm chassis

[@ZAKRC]

+RC Grid yeah thats what I was thinking about the center of gravity. I heard some people liked the carbon chassis because you can add on weight without loosing much. Might give the short chassis a try when my friend gets one.

[@jammindesigns7135]

Buggy looks good. What tire sauce you use?

[@RCGrid]

I actually make my own sauce

[@jammindesigns7135]

What do you use?

[@RCGrid]

JAMMIN RC Sorry but the ingredients are secret! ;) The locals at my track most likely wouldn't like me spreading the information they spent a long time testing at the track....

[@jammindesigns7135]

Well I make my own. Is it a two part mixture?

[@RCGrid]

It is a 4 part mixture, it's so corrosive and harmful I have to store it in an aluminum bottle

[@rccowboy709]

What the body called

[@Thomas.R]

Hey, I was just wondering how you got Team Orion to donate the R10.1 to you. Also, do you know if the rear mount setup will allow for a full size 5000 MaH 2 cell LiPO pack? Thanks

[@RCGrid]

I totally lucked out that Team Orion sent me a donation. They donated me the ESC because I made a video on their Advantage Touch Duo charger, and Team Orion saw the video and liked it. As for the battery, I have a friend who runs a rear motor 22T, and he uses a full size 5000mAh battery with no firmest issues. You might want to purchase a low profile servo

[@RCGrid]

+RC Grid *fitment

[@Thomas.R]

+RC Grid Great! Thanks so much, I was thinking of running the Castle Sidewinder 3 with a 7700 kV motor, and a Spectrum S6070 Low Profile Servo. Can you also send me the link as to where i can find the tires that you used?

[@RCGrid]

+Thomas Rodrigue A 7700Kv motor sounds like it would not have enough torque. I run a 7.5T motor which is about 5800Kv, and anything higher than 6400Kv would not be good. A 7700Kv motor is comparable to a 5.5T motor, which I've never heard anyone run in a buggy. The tires I used are Pro-Line suburbs, but I sanded them down to make them slicks.

[@Thomas.R]

+RC Grid Thanks for the advice, the same package also has the option with a 5700 Kv motor, would that be better?