Tom's Tips & Tricks #3 - Plunge Milling

Plunge milling is a technique used to remove material quickly, without generating a lot of heat. It works particularly well for pockets, with long end mills and with gummy material.

[@dennyskerb4992]

Hey Tom, great to see your videos again. Hope all is well. You'll always have an audience because of your knowledge and willingness to share.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Denny. All is very well. The company I work for sold last month, which enabled me to retire, and Thursday was my last day. It's been a stressful month, with lots of financial stuff and tying up of loose ends, but it's all good. Monday morning it'll all sink in when I don't have to get up and go to work. :) Tom

[@1DIYGuy]

you showed this awhile back. It has changed the way I mill. The big plus for me is the end of the end mill dulls not the side flutes easier to sharpen and the end mill can be kept true to diameter longer Thanks again for a great tip.

[@mikem970]

Tom, Just wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed an learned from you videos!! Thanks for taking the time to make then! Looking forward to new ones! Thanks

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

I made one years ago and funny enough found it again this weekend,so I’m sure to use it. Great stuff

[@TheEpistemicOne]

That Hardinge Lathe is so sweet! Had one at my previous job and loved working on it. I recently purchased a CNC mill to start my own shop in addition to designing and marketing my own products, so your comments at the beginning are definitely inspiring.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Dennis. I'm considering a Haas Mini Mill to play with after retirement. I had a Hurco CNC mill at my disposal on my last job and it hurt bad to leave it behind. Tom

[@TheEpistemicOne]

I bought a Haas Mini Mill and am glad I did. Great little machine.

[@TomsTechniques]

Sounds like you need to start saving for a Hardinge. :)

[@ArnoldsDesign]

I ran a Hardinge Super Precision years ago. They were so nice to operate, and I loved the threading function.

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes, they are hard to beat for threading. About the only thing they don't do well is remove a lot of material in a hurry. Tom

[@firetie28]

Some of the best advice I have recieved yet. I was a mechanic by trade, fell in love with the sea and worked on tugs for a while. Now, I am shoreside with an office job. I say all this to say, I am not a machinist, not even close. Wasn't even a hobbyist till 2 weeks ago. In 2 weeks I made a few mistakes. Your video here straightened me up enough to actually mill the needed components. I am building a sawmill from the ground up. I needed to machine 2 bearing guides. I humbly thank you for sharing what you know 🙏 looking forward to watching your other vids!

[@stephenmcdaniel1941]

Thanks Tom. Glad you're back. I never thought of this technique until I saw you use it on the carriage stop body, and since, have used it a lot. It's faster, and it's easier to sharpen the end of the mills than the flutes. Makes 'em last longer.

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes, that is a plus I forgot to mention. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@MyHeap]

Tom, I don't have a milling machine yet but when I do finally get one, I will keep this tip in mind. Thanks for sharing with this metal working newbie! Joe

[@jimmilne19]

Another good technique for the arsenal. It was also interesting to hear a bit about you. I, too, have machines that are paying for themselves in a small shop and I'm happy for being independent and for the jobs that come through the door (and out again). Thanks for the video. Nice.

[@humblyright]

Hi Tom, I just found your channel and really enjoy your techniques and processes. I’ve learned quite a bit from you and hopefully by the time I get through your library of videos you’ll be settled into that new shop you’re building in MI. Wishing you a safe and successful move & looking forward to more videos in the near future.

[@TomsTechniques]

Moving at this stage of my life is quite a challenge, especially when there is a machine shop involved. We are pretty much into the house, although I am still working on the kitchen remodel and some built-ins. The shop is pretty much complete and I have been moving in machinery. It's located in the U.P., so everything has to be trailered up from midstate. So far, the mill and lathe are safely in their new homes. The propane delivery is scheduled and I'm in the process of installing a condensing boiler for the radiant heat. It'll be nice to have heat before the U.P. winter moves in. I wanted to have the well put in too, but it looks like that's gonna have to wait for spring. I'm definitely looking forward to getting the shop operational again and start making more videos.

[@berockization]

@@TomsTechniques Great news! You're still my favorite KZbin machinist...

[@DreadedOne509]

Not gonna lie, I miss your full-blown videos. With that said, I am really enjoying these quick tips and technique videos too. Thanks for still producing entertaining and instructional videos, very much appreciated.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Ray. If all goes as planned, I'll be on a permanent vacation in a few weeks. Then I'll have time for the full blown ones, among other things. :) Tom

[@Jraksdhs]

Ray Murphy 509 music too my ears!

[@jjgag601]

Glad you are back to making video's thanks for your time and efforts.

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very interesting. Nice work. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@HarelJann]

Inspiration to watch your videos and your works ethics. It's weird to be excited that someone is retiring :D

[@TomsTechniques]

I don't know. I'm pretty excited about it! Tom

[@mamoshimiloni9559]

I have been following you for many years now and I have learned alot from you, and I am Grateful. I wish you the best of Luck in what ever you do and lots of Good health and happiness. Thank you for making these videos and sorry my english :)

[@ironhorse1888]

Thank you for the tip Tom. I have broken 3 or 4 end mills just because of doing what you said not to do!! No More will that happen. Plunge henceforth.... Thanks!

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching

[@mc-eschx8972]

Thanks! enjoy your videos, and also the background on how you got where you are

[@TomsTechniques]

As an addendum to the background thing, about a week after I made this video, the company sold and I was able to retire. I'm into week two now and still trying to figure out what to do with all my new found time. :) Thanks for watching. Tom

[@priority2]

Very happy to hear about your retirement. I'm on year 6 and it's awesome :)

[@TomsTechniques]

Two months for me and good so far. :)

[@ProfessorKhamke]

I use this to crank out mill stop bases whenever I need more. A 33/64 End Mill and ~.100 stepover between plunges will push out a slot almost as quickly than I can think about it!

[@holdensherard4664]

I can't imagine buying a hardinge lathe new. The ones I have seen were made before the second world war, still ran like brand new, and were still worth a fortune! I would never be able to justify buying one. Very nice.

[@TomsTechniques]

Machines like that are excellent investments if you have the ability to put them to work. People spend that kind of money on cars all the time and think nothing of it. Machines like the Hardinge hold their value AND generate income. It's a win win. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@jaysilverheals4445]

He uses it for roughing out such as can be done in slots by stepping over however with a cnc plunge milling is of super importance for many reasons especially angled walls. It should almost always be done cut down only and rapid back up and stepover for a few reasons. It produces perfect accurate angle walls and tapers where as going around and around--does not. The benefits are many and is analagous to making a lathe cut--the cutter cuts on the end but produces the finished surface as the tangency of the radius of the insert moves along--just like a lathe. Another huge benefit is truly astonishing roughing rates because you can step over 1/4 inch and be hacking off .100 deep to rough! (that by the way shows why you must plunge cut only ONE WAY--DOWN) and rapid back up just like he did in the video. yet another benefit visualize a 3/4 insert cutter producing a million machine taper inside or even a straight wall or big round bore?--note that since inside the cutter can step over .030 OR MORE each time finishing the taper perfectly in a couple minutes.. if you do the match the cusp is almost nothing even with massive stepovers. Yes it works and is done daily in industry. Another benefit is that the insert and cutter hardly care if the material is aluminum or hardened steel.. however going around and around stepping down it certainly does--THE CUTTER WILL PUSH AWAY A HUGE AMOUNT AND GO DULL.. you will not even reach the bottom.. Plunge milling in hardened h-13 is how we cut hewlett packard printer body molds and other things. Also you can plunge cut straight deep walls even in hardened steel and the walls will be perfect and straight--but be aware you have to relieve the side of the insert so that only a small land is hitting you cannot have the insert scrubbing against the walls. Anyone interested I just created a FB group--shapers and zlinear plunge milling techniques and tools. If you type in all one word SHAPERINFO it also will come up It is also based upon the shaper attachment that goes on the back of bridgeports..

[@darthherald2564]

Looking at that part you made I'd imagine there was some warping after all that material was removed. I like your comment about the stress relieved weldment, that's the first thing I thought of when I saw what you were making.

[@TomsTechniques]

Cast jig plate is extremely stable. You can do some pretty radical machining on it without fear of warping it. On the other hand, it's soft and doesn't anodize well. Tom

[@emiliog.4432]

Great video Tom. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Plunge milling like this must extend the life of the end mill.

[@SlowEarl1]

Another great tip Tom! So glad you are back at it and really appreciate what you share.

[@tracmila5755]

How you doing Tom? Miss you. All the best.

[@TomsTechniques]

Hanging in there. We are currently moving and I'm building a new shop. Hope to be back in business soon.

[@rodbambauer3041]

Thanks Tom. I always learn something from you.

[@johannesvanhoek9080]

Thank you for taking the time to share ,, enjoy your retirement 👍

[@TomsTechniques]

Thank you. So far, it sure beats working!

[@mimlomiani6949]

Love your Video's, You really are one of the best on KZbin. Lots of Friendly good wishings for you and what you do, From just a Guy from IRAN....

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Mimlo. I spent many years working with a fellow from Iran by the name of Sohiel Memarsadeghi. He was a lot of fun, and one crazy dude. Tom

[@mimlomiani6949]

Crazy Dude !! OK Now I am shore you have had a Iranian Friend :) Clever people Dont make Revolutions when their country is at the top in every possible way, because of Bld. Arab Religion called Islim :). But I stop, because Its about your video's and your videos are much more interesting than any Polotics these days if you ask me...:)

[@1995dresser]

I do this a lot when milling long slots . start with a size smaller end mill. and finish with the size needed end mill and use the table Power feed works great

[@DanielWood]

Tom, I love your videos. Really happy to see new content.

[@Harrzack]

Thanks Tom - as always I learn a lot from your vids.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching

[@trailsB4you]

Tom, YOU are awesome, thank you for the great tips.

[@fm3arthur]

Hi Tom Haven't talked in a while - I have done some cutting like that but I have a cooling system bolted to the turret head machine and it force cools rather well and I was using a 3 flute hole hog (wrong words maybe) and it seemed to work pretty good - but I don't think it went any faster that what you just showed thx art

[@ShawnD1027]

This is quite timely for me, as I'm about to mill some vehicle steering arms out of billet steel and was thinking about how to go about initial rough cutting of the parts from the billet. Since my mill is a hobby mill (Taig), I was concerned about doing it in an efficient manner.

[@AbongC2023]

Thank you

[@blargblarghonk]

Thanks for sharing all these tips.

[@madeddiesman-stylemonsterm6662]

Very useful technique. Thanks for sharing this!

[@millomweb]

0:11 Now that's what I call a heater !

[@JB-kw4ug]

Thanks for the video, I wish you had made this a year ago when I was trying to mill out the pocket on an AR 80% receiver. Good to know for next one.

[@TomsTechniques]

I made one of those last year out of a bare forging and used this technique for the pocket. Tom

[@jaboobs1074]

I really hope you are not done making videos and all is well. Just found your channel and will be watching all of the episodes. Thanks much for passing on your knowledge!

[@nostamine2567]

nice , and for beginners like myself you get to save some extra metal for other projects since some probably dont have melters

[@RGSABloke]

Hi Tom, I don't have a mill but I recently got a compound table for my drill press and these techniques help with the overall ergonomics of using workshop machinery. Any thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Tom, Great video, also great to make deep pockets, saves a lot on end mills... ;)

[@MyShopNotes]

Hmm, you should call this toms tips and techniques. lol. Thanks for another good vid Tom.

[@219garry]

I built prototype injection molds for 25 yrs. I wouldn't recommend clamping a part where you are taking out the center wider than your vise jaws. There's a chance when you take it out of the vise the center will bow and the pocket could actually flex out larger than you wanted. It might only be a couple thou but that's still bad if you have to be dead on.

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes that could be an issue as the part gets longer relative to the vise jaws. In this case, the purpose of the frame cut was to simply lighten the part, so a any bow would has been little consequence.

[@Myersmetalworks]

Great video- thanks!

[@machinist_kwt]

it has been long time , nice to see your video again Thanks Kuwait follower

[@davidaarons2488]

Hey Tom, nice job. Having watched you before I have used your method and works great, I have one question is there a way to do this and mill a curve or angle with a manual mill? Or would you plot it out with dro. I am just a hobby machinist and make small parts for my radio controlled cars. God Bless Ya Dave

[@TomsTechniques]

Absolutely. For curves, you need to mount the part on a rotary table centered up on the axis of rotation for whatever curve you want to machine. For angled cuts you would either rotate the vise, or clamp the part to the table at the required angle. Tom

[@douglasbattjes3991]

Again Tom, great video, do you have any videos on setting a point on a new part using a DRO and then setting the drill points in the SDM ? Really impressed with your work shop.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks, Doug. The reference point on a part is set using an edge finder, or an indicator for a hole. Not sure what you mean by SDM. Unfortunately, that shop is no longer. We moved and everything went into storage. I have built a new shop and am getting it set up, but it's a slow process. I hope to be operational again in the coming year.

[@RCHanlin]

Another great video Tom.. !

[@jagboy69]

Hope we see you come back someday Tom!

[@TomsTechniques]

I'm working hard on getting a new shop set up. Hope to be operational again by end of summer.

[@jagboy69]

@@TomsTechniques 👍Good to hear Tom.

[@aaronholstrom1971]

Thanks Tom! Another great video.

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

That overhead heater must be some hot to stand so close to!

[@johnkinnane547]

G'day Tom I would like to wish you and yours a merry Christmas and a prosperous new year and thank you for channel which has helped me over the year kind regards John

[@TomsTechniques]

Thank you John. And a merry Christmas to you and yours as well. Tom

[@geckoproductions4128]

Another useful video, again thank you. Also, some guys like to use WD 40 on aluminum. Do you recommend it?

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks. WD-40 works well as a tapping fluid on non-ferrous metals, but it smokes too much to use as a cutting fluid on anything but very light cuts.

[@shannonstebbens6992]

Tom, we miss your expertise out here in KZbin Land.

[@TomsTechniques]

Yeah, I've been thinking about it. There are still a lot of topics that would make great videos. Once this retirement think gets too boring, I'll pick it up again. :)

[@israelmartinez2027]

Same speeds and feeds as regular depth cut pocketing? Or do you calculate it as a hss or carbide drill with the endmill diameter being used? Thank you

[@TomsTechniques]

Same rpm as you would normally mill at, dependent on the diameter of the end mill.

[@partisanguerrilla3167]

I knew there had to be a better way. Thanks Tom!

[@CJ-ty8sv]

Just out of curiosity, if you are starting with a solid chunk and as you said, couldn't band-saw off a large portion of excess material, why not have the first opp be a drill opp and drill all the way through the full thickness to drop out the entire center slugs from the solid full raw stock material? Basically just like your plunge cut opp but with a drill right from the start (full raw material thickness). It appears that you machined the opposite side (side down on parallel's) before doing the thru pocket. This to me seems like you would have spent a excessive amount of time milling off all that material that would have been removed by just drilling the complete through pocket as the first opp. Then would have only been left with the narrow area of material to hog off.

[@TomsTechniques]

Bandsawing as much material out as possible is always faster than milling. As I mentioned though, my saw is a little small for that so I opted to just mill it complete. Milling deep with an endmill is slower than keeping the cuts shallow due to chip removal and heat generation. That is why I opted to save the framing operation for last. Tom

[@samahdicox3120]

Chris I thought the same thing, first op I chain drilling the full thickness before you mill anything , also was a bit poor on the work holding in the vice , Soon as the centre piece is removed the pocket will close up as the two ribs are outside the vice jaws, the pocket will not be square and the clamping force is reduced so the piece could lift out , 👍

[@catherineharris4746]

Outstanding!👍👍👍👍

[@emiliog.4432]

Great technique. Thanks Tom.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Emilio

[@santopezzotti730]

Good morning TOM I’m the 71-year-old newbie and I’m finishing up setting up my shop at home mainly to do hobby work. I do have a LeBlond leave and a Bridgeport along with the surface grinder. I was wondering what your opinion is in reference to should I prepare my shop for the process of using coolant on the Lathe the Bridgeport Milling Machine. I’d be really interested in your opinion. I guess the question boils down to why do you need coolant I understand you use cord to keep things cool but if you’re a hobby shop and time is not actually the most important thing do you still need coolant

[@TomsTechniques]

Coolant is more if a nuissance in a home shop than a help. You can't just mix up a tank and forget about it, it must be maintained and the tanks kept clean. It also tends to rust machinery when only used on occasion. If you need it at all, just use a spray bottle and mist it on the cutter as needed.

[@santopezzotti730]

@@TomsTechniques thanks Tom I am really happy I came across you Chanel. Really looking forward to your new videos.

[@JonDingle]

Great videos and channel young man!

[@TheCommo81]

Just curious you mentioned heat, why not show down your speed a little bit? I found slower speeds are better. I clear chips better at slower speeds without the need to plunge cut.

[@TomsTechniques]

Running an endmill outside of its recommended rpm is asking for trouble. Too high will burn it up, and too low will increase the chance of breakage, due to a higher chip load. If you are having trouble clearing chips, your best bet is to decrease the depth of cut, and increase the feed rate. Or, with deep pockets, use plunge cutting.

[@daviddominessy]

Thanks and great as usual Tom!

[@dsmasynergy]

awesome tip, thx!

[@andrewkline]

Hey Tom, appreciate your work! Could you elaborate more on how one gets "outside work" or "bidding on jobs"? I hear these terms tossed about a lot, but i missed the memo where they told you where to go to get these jobs. Call me ignorant, but i've always been interested in doing side work, just never figured out where or how to find it - aside from beating down doors and the rest of the old-school hard marketing methods.

[@TomsTechniques]

Hi Andrew, I was lucky to have had some connections who opened a few doors for me. Most of the jobs I landed were for designing fixtures or attachments for machines and I was unique because I could do the design as well as build the devices. Once I delivered a few jobs, I then got more work by word of mouth. Generating contacts is always more productive than beating down door (with everyone else). Tom

[@dbriggs1689]

What type of milling bit is that? I'm not a machinist but I have a project where I have to plunge and mill an aluminum block about an inch wide and 2 inches deep but not all the way through the piece. Any info would be appreciated.

[@TomsTechniques]

It's a two-flute center cutting end mill. Do you have a milling machine to use one on?

[@mikenixon9164]

Thanks for sharing.

[@RobbyNowell]

Thanks for the tip!

[@freethinkerofny9187]

At 6:00 to 6:30 how are you climb milling without the cutter grabbing the work piece?

[@tomfitzpatrick9980]

Do you happen to know the part # for a 4 jaw chuck for the Craftsman 12" metal working lathe with a 36" bed of the early 70's? Thanks very much.

[@TomsTechniques]

Not off hand, but I think Clausing International still sells parts for the Atlas/Craftsman lathes.

[@Unitdirtdiver01]

Just curious, how well does a roughing end mill do with this material? I ask because most of the material I have worked with has been stainless on the mill, I work in maintenance at a bakery...food safety first!! VERY useful technique though.

[@TomsTechniques]

A roughing end mill is designed to side mill. No need to use this technique for them. Tom

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Great tip, thanks

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Dale. Not sure how I missed your site for so long, other than that time thing, but I'm subscribed now. That's an excellent intro you've put together. Tom

[@mannyfilmsinc]

Great video Tom, I have to make a series of holes (24) on 3/16 plate, with ID of 1.25". It does not have to be precise , just the spacing in between. Using a vertical mill, what cutting tool would you use for the job?

[@TomsTechniques]

I would start by first drilling them as large as possible with drills and/or end mills, then switch to a boring head and step them up to size. If you don't have a boring head and the diameter is not that critical a small fly cutter can be used. Lay the holes out with a divider first and remove as much metal as possible with an end mill, then take them to size with the fly cutter set to the final diameter.

[@mannyfilmsinc]

@@TomsTechniques Thanks!!

[@upallnightgolf]

I have watched a few of your ciders and found them very educational. Are you still machining?

[@TomsTechniques]

We moved to a place with no room for a shop, so everything is in storage, but I'm in the process of building a new and bigger one.

[@upallnightgolf]

@@TomsTechniques Your welcome in Arizona anytime. "It's a dry heat".

[@campparsonssundayschool7844]

This is common practice for milling out pockets in injection mold making.

[@shortribslongbow5312]

Great idea thanks for sharing.

[@Mirandorl]

Hi! I am a little confused. If I understand correctly, climb milling has to do with moving the part against the direction of the cutters rotation. I can understand that ok when the cutter and part are moving in the same plane, say the XY plane. You indicated that the plunge milling should be done as a climb, but I don't see where the 'climb' comes in as the direction of travel of the cutter is in the Z direction, and at 90 degrees (i.e. downwards) to the cutters rotation. What am I missing? Cheers!

[@poozandweeez]

climb milling is where you cut in the same direction the cutter is turning, so the cutter almost drives along the cut like a wheel on a car, conventional is going against the rotation of the cutter, climbing can be dangerous on less rigid machines as the tool an grab the work and dig in, resulting in broken cutters, chatter, and or poor finishes, in a rigid set up, climb milling is preferable, less load on cutter, extended tool life, and better finishes and swarf evacuation

[@Mirandorl]

I get that part, but when you are plunging the cutter *down and through the part*, like a drill as in the video, the movement is neither with nor against the cut. Its at 90 degrees to it. I thought maybe he meant the finishing passes, but there he both climbs and down mills.

[@TomsTechniques]

The first cut when plunge milling will be neither climb nor conventional milling, but after that, the direction the cutter is moved before the next plunge will determine whether it is a climb cut or conventional cut. A climb cut will push the cutter away from the work and a conventional cut will pull it in. Tom

[@Mirandorl]

Hi Tom, thank you for replying! Thats the part where I am confused. I am a newish machinist, and my limited understanding of climb / conventional milling has to do with both the part and the cutter moving at the same time. For example if your cutter goes clockwise and, looking from above, your part is moving across its top at the 12 o clock position, when the part moves to the right then that is climb milling (with the rotation), and when to the left it will be conventional milling (against the rotation). In the video your move and cut are separate, moving the part along, and then with the part stationary, taking the cut. As there is no relative motion horizontally, how do you determine climb or conventional? I see what you are saying in the video that the cutter will want to push or pull away from your edge. Is this also defined as climb / conventional, even when the part itself is not moving?

[@TomsTechniques]

There has to be movement between the cutter and work to create a climb or conventional milling scenario. When plunge milling, that movement is on the Z axis. Tom

[@bostondan77]

You rock, thank you.

[@jbijnens]

Great video.

[@tomfitzpatrick9980]

Thanks very much for that tip.

[@gregorynorth80]

Any know how this gentleman is doing? I’ve learned so much from him

[@TomsTechniques]

Gentleman? You must be talking about my dad. ;) I am doing well. My wife and I sold our house to move closer to the grand kids. Unfortunately the new house had no room for a shop, so I'm in the process of building one. That will probably be my first new video, once I get it up and running. It's going to be a while though, I have most of the shop machinery out of storage, but nothing is hooked up yet, and the place is full of boxes. Hang in there, though. I will be back.

[@gregorynorth80]

@@TomsTechniques thank you Tom looking forward to it

[@michaelgillen3537]

@@TomsTechniques I am really looking forward to your return Tom. I just got back into your videos on processes using the milling machine and they have helped me a lot. Now that I am milling more, instructional videos are the most helpful. Thank you for all of your contributions for us to reference.

[@Smokeslingerowner]

Is that a Gentle Lady sailplane hanging from the ceiling?

[@TomsTechniques]

It is, and it is my second one. It flies so well that I completely wore out my first one. Tom

[@mimlomiani6949]

Hi Tom. Everything is ok `? we haven't heard from you for some times now? I wish you the best and Hope to hear from you in your new video series....:)

[@TomsTechniques]

All is well. I'm just figuring out this new retirement lifestyle and so far, I've been busier than when I was working. :) I'm told that will change, and when it happens, I'll start cranking out some new videos. Tom

[@georgiusrisang427]

Hope you make another video on milling with different material, maybe ST 60 or more hard, because allumunium is too soft

[@TomsTechniques]

The technique is the same regardless of the material. Just adjust the rpm to suit. Tom

[@scottcarlon6318]

Tom, I don’t have a mill or a lathe but i do have a floor standing drill press. Would it be possible tp plunge cut with my drill press?

[@TomsTechniques]

Drill presses don't have the rigidity required for milling, or a method of safely holding an end mill. What will likely happen is it will chatter like hell and then the chuck will pop off the taper on the spindle and ruin your day. Tom

[@MaDeuce80]

Thanks Tom

[@eugeneanderson7984]

Tom thank you for all you do. Not many of us left although I’m not a machinist I’m a heavy mech. We possess skills given to us by our Lord JESUS Christ. Have a blessed day if you do believe it may be time to invest a bit of scripture in the vids. Tubal Cain comes to mind.

[@TomsTechniques]

Sorry Eugene, but pushing religion on someone through my videos wouldn't be cool. Glad you like them though.

[@joshuawade1320]

I could had used this in the shop today. I conventionally milled a slot for a fixture. My end mill got clogged up. I was using 6061 alum so I just knocked it off with a chisel

[@JeremiahL]

What coolant do you use?

for plunge milling (aluminum) 2 flute or 3 flute best option?

[@TomsTechniques]

Fewer flutes are less apt to clog up in soft metals.

@@TomsTechniques thnx

[@MrButch9110]

thanks for sharing good tip

[@BisonWorkshop]

good info tom.

[@JoshKilen]

nice job. Thanks for sharing.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching

[@GroovyVideo2]

Thanks

[@daveprototype6079]

Great tip Cheers Dave

[@MegaLifeChanging]

And using this method in a CNC mill really goes fast

[@Lmr6973]

Tom I miss your videos. Hope all is well.

[@TomsTechniques]

Things are going very well on my first year of retirement. I'm currently building a 40 x 70 shop/toy box in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, so have been keeping very busy. I'll post a progress report one of these days once I get it all enclosed. Tom