Adjusting Z Offset on your 3D printer

[@tonenotvolume]

Leveling the bed IS the number one obstacle to beginning printing. Your video really explains it well. Thank you!

[@anderdelrio]

PLEASE KEEP THESE VIDEOS COMING!!!! These are the best tutorials on the V3 SE available. Thank you so much!!!

[@hendersonmedia5028]

Thanks for doing this video. This is a very much needed video for newer printers with auto bed leveling.

[@robinderoos1166]

They certainly arent perfect.... Gotta adjust z offset after every reboot

[@kici1769]

​@@robinderoos1166after leveling and setting z offset you should save settings then use gcode for prints to restore mesh from memory

[@beamusdownscotty9231]

These videos of yours are just gold for any 3D-printing people out there, keep it up, I hope KZbin puts your videos on the main page!

[@rosegoldenboy]

This guy's a yapper, skip to the 2 minute mark and set playback speed to 1.5 fr

[@Nef17879]

Even after a year or so your videos have still helped me whenever I run into trouble with my Ender. This and your other video have saved my butt multiple times. Thank you so much for these videos.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

I am so glad they helped you :)

[@robertfalloon]

That first picture was worth a thousand words from other sites, thanks.

[@SalsaGirlz66]

Wow! THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH! I purchased an .stl file to create a stencil of circles for cookie work. It printed a horrible mess. I gave up. I fine tuned nozzle, a bit closer to bed by increasing the set negative number, based on your video tutorial, AND IT IS PRINTING BEAUTIFULLY NOW! It's perfect! I can't believe it is working. Your explanation helps me understand a great deal more to fix this and future problems now that I know what to look for. Thanks again!!!

[@axzural6334]

I just got an Ender 3 v3 SE and your videos have been so helpful for me as a beginner. Please keep it up!

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

I'm glad it helped you :)

[@mickosborne2202]

I've watched loads of videos explaining this but this one just clicked with me and I've finally been able to work it out. Thank you so much. New follower gained.

[@anotherledfreak8649]

Thank you for your explanation. I've been having all kinds off issues with my v3 se set to Z -2.16 (especially with white pla, which I've heard can also be an issue). Have set it to -2.2 (based on your video) and WOW! SOOOOOO MUCH BETTER! I'm now running a circle calibration file and the results are looking Amazing!

[@LAFFRS]

my v3 se is terrible for tghis aswell i mighgt have to try it i usually run like -1.9

[@TexasRain104]

Bought this printer for my son’s Christmas present due to it being used by him due to the school he attends using it in the Library. He loved it and came to his parents. Using your videos to bring my “old man” knowledge up to speed of my son whom tech knowledge is above mine. Going to run it thru its paces BEFORE Santa does the drop. THANK YOU! and… may I suggest you add TikTok or whatever the kids use (as well) to bring you more subscribers to your channel… ❤

[@aaronporter6521]

Your videos and cura profiles have been a lifesaver! Micro Center had the Ender 3 v2 for $99 and ive been getting great results with all your suggestions!

[@durvalcc]

When I got my ender-3 4 year’s ago was your channel that helps me with the build and tuning . Now I just got the new ender 3 v3 SE and your channel once again is helping me. thanks a lot !

[@josephpk4878]

I use a 3-4 line skirt to ensure a good z-height and will adjust the bed on the fly. Generally, getting a good 1st layer result when I see a slight valley separating the lines. Too big a valley = lower the z axis / no valley = raise the z axis. To get an accurately levelled bed and proper z axis, try running a multi-lined skirt along the entire perimeter of your print bed and you'll plainly identify which corners need adjustment (and possibly find warped areas on the bed - mine has a slight upward bulge toward the center). Thanks for the good visual representation of this concept.

[@SharpCosmos]

Thank you so much, I was going insane trying to figure out why I have no adherence, fixed the offset, worked like magic.

[@rasmushansen1108]

7:34 minutes later and I am SO much the wiser on adjusting and maintaining my new Ender 3 pro. Thank you so much for the awesome explanation man!

[@jlbarba521]

Amazing!! Now I can finally patch the hole in my wall from banging my head against it over this issue for way too long! haha - LIFE SAVER! Thank you!!

[@kobedde]

Please keep making these videos, they are so helpful. 🙏 Thank you for sharing all your experience and knowledge.

[@TurnTheRage]

Your videos are a godsend ! I just started last weekend and already after your tweaks and advice ive printed an entire guitar hero controller within 2 weeks kf beggining 3d printing !

[@biggie_slav7006]

Learning so much! I made this simple adjustment as it printed and the difference is night and day. Much appreciated!

[@_DROM_]

This channel is underrated, man. Every little issue I found with my printer, you had an answer for. Guess you're the only one paying attention 😂

[@michaeldemar2191]

After 100s of videos finally a tutorial that doesn’t assume you already know anything! Ty!

[@TheShrimpfather-aka-Martin]

Just commenting for the algorithm, lol appreciate ya taking the time to make videos. I'm only 7 months into 3d printing, currently have an Ender 3 v2 Neo, and your videos are probably the most helpful to me...

[@blekenbleu]

Thanks for exceptionally clear descriptions. For viewers lacking experience with other 3D printers, a video simply describing which other videos are applicable to Edner-3 V3 Se (and which are not, and why) would be useful.

[@sm00073]

I wanted to study this topic, but for some reason I came across your video in English, the subtitles helped me understand the content without knowing English

[@Vllgcrzyldy]

Your first graphic told me more than 3 other videos together.Thank you

[@sschaefer11]

great video! I'd love to see similar videos on tuning each axis to get quality prints.

[@MonkeyNinja99]

It’s very helpful to see these new videos geared towards the more modern printers!

[@reneesteeves3698]

haha i think "I" was one of the people having trouble that messaged you. You knew right away it was Z offset. This could not have come at a better time. Thank you for continuing to make simple easy to follow tutorials. Really appreciate it

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

I hope it helps! :)

[@reneesteeves3698]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it did! laying down some really great prints until now i have the opposite problem...nothing being extruded at all! hahaha I can't win. Do you have a video on cleaning the nozzle on an ender 3 v2 by any chance?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

@@reneesteeves3698 this will show you what to do: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWHUon6LrNucrdksi=Wz6aX91jFXMKIWp8

[@MrBizteck]

After 7 years I had a massive blob on my Prusa MK2 and accidentally yanked abunch of wires out while removing it. 7 years it motored on. I decided daddy needed a new toy ... ( I'll fix this one too) Just pulled the trigger on a SE yesterday. Loving your videos!

[@paulbacon5056]

After a number of good prints with my Ender 3 V3 SE I found that the first layer wasn't sticking to the plate. I relevelled a number of times tried different temperature settings etc but nothing seemed to work. So in the end I just reset the machine to factory settings, did the initial bed levelling and tried a test print and everything is back to normal again. Just a tip for any that ever have the same problem. I'm very new to this and only got my printer on January 1st so it's a bit of a learning curve. But thanks for your great videos. They help a lot.

[@IanFitty]

Your videos have been helping me with the headache of a new E3V3 SE. I got a bit of a lemon out of the factory with a poorly set gantry and goofy bed. Sadly had a 10 hour print fail in the middle of the night last night but after looking into it my z offset being too low for one side of my bed led to the nozzle knocking the print off the bed. Back to the z offset test prints 🤷‍♂️

[@jonahkolell]

I have rewatched your older videos and send them to other new people getting involved in 3d printing

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Thank you!

[@mmmsaxy]

Best explanation of z-offset I've ever seen. Liked and Subscribed 👍👍

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Thanks!

[@scottshort6300]

New to 3D printing and your videos have been extremely helpful. Thank you!

[@magpack9]

New to 3D printing and we bought 2 ender3 v3 se printer and still learning the details.Thanks so much for posting this especially on the V3.

[@chuckm3520]

Always appreciate a good video that explains the basics like this.

[@nicksteinke4526]

Love your videos. They helped me when I got started 4 years ago.

[@chasonlapointe]

I always have a bit of a time getting the z offset set right, thanks for the simple explanation.

[@paulguy8779]

A really good tip for anyone with an ender 3 (original) theres an addon you can download for cura and it allows you to set your Z offset in the slicer. Extremely useful and gamechanging vs just manually doing everything.

[@taylorgulledge3858]

Im printing with sla now, but you taught me how to print amazing minis on a machine that people said couldnt do it.

[@duaneswaby622]

Yes! This video has helped me so much! Your illustration really captured my issue exactly and gives me an idea of what I need to fix. Thanks a lot!

[@kvang84]

Thanks for this video, it has been helpful. I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to use lcd touch screen and the marlin 4.2.7 board after it sitting in storage for 3 years. Was trying to figure out my Z offset and this helps since I also got an autoleveler attachment. now I just wish the software had more features and options.

[@Gandalf3600]

for me personally, youtube actually always shows your new videos on my youtube homepage

[@shawnlowe1392]

Thank you for this video! I just bought a ender 3 v3 se and am having z-offset issues! Your a god send

[@jamescannon2587]

mine was set perfectly, then all of a sudden, the prints were sticking a little too much and dragging into my build plate, and this was on the Ender 3 v3 SE, after I auto leveled, and when I used the auto configure before print option. I'm not sure if something messed with the settings, or if maybe the hot end might have not been straight or what. The print was stuck to the plate so well that the build plate broke a hole in the middle when I attempted to remove the 4th print from it :(

[@VillalobosSR]

Been there, and i got a textured plate, never had an issue and adhesion is better, as well as print quality

[@jameswhite5883]

Awesome video. This has to be the easiest to understand on setting it up.

[@AlfredoLanzarini]

Thank you for the explanation on Z offset, now I understand why was thid on my printer.

[@A_Frige]

Thanks man! I'v been strugling for days!

[@Echo4O9]

some of the best tech breakdowns out there, thank you!

[@sewinlove_co]

This is extremely helpful information. Thanks for taking the time to share it here!

[@davidfrazier2277]

Yes, please keep these coming. First video where something was actually explained why it happens and how to fix it. Great video. I too have and ender 3 ve se and really like it but had to replace the slide plate because the one from the factory was bent. Got the new plate installed tonight and now trying to get leveled up. My request after a first level attempt, the graph show a bunch of different levels, all either green (good) blue (close), yellow (needs adjusting) and red (out of whack, lots of adjusting). But how do you change the graph so you r number are green. I know you can manually make the change and guess a number, but what is the right way.

[@AndersBorgSweden]

When I got a PEI plate that was slightly thinner than the factory plate I made a very thin square in the slicer and printed it, and adjusted Z offset on the fly. It was hard to determine the right level by eye though.

[@abc123yoyo]

love your videos. Commenting because you asked nicely.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Thank you, I appreciate it :)

[@kayngo87]

Thank you for your simple explanation which make so much sense

[@veritanuda]

Thanks, Tom. Love your clear guides for tuning prints.

[@Bogwobble]

This helped me alot, thanks man. Technical stuff that was simplified and understandable.

[@jonathanhupman5752]

Well explained and the graphics really helped. Much appreciated. Cheers! ❤

[@JoseBatista-rf5ip]

The Z offset should be set so that when the printer 'thinks' it is 0.2 mm above the bed (or 0.4 or whatever), it really is. So you should actually measure it instead of trying to eyeball it while printing, otherwise you're allowing for other factors to come into play. For example, if you're using a filament configured so that its flow rate is too high and use it when adjusting the Z offset, you're likely to set it too high to compensate for the high flow. Then you use a different filament and the Z offset is off. So, clean the nozzle, put the printer at a Z of 0.2 and using a feeler adjust the Z offset until it is indeed 0.2 mm above the bed. Save the setting and don't touch it again. If the printer seems to be printing 'too close' or 'too far' from the bed, you'll know its not the offset but some other thing that makes it look like it is. My 2c.

[@Lensman64]

Just by the opening image (nozzle/Bed): That helped to visualize more than any other video I watched. I just purchased a V3 KE and it's supposed to be auto everything which was one of the reasons I go it. Not so much! I've successfully printed the tugboat and 7-8 other prints (mine and others) however the consistency of the first layer sticking is about 50/50 AND I can't even complete the Creality calibration tests without them ending up in a big blob dragged across the bed. Unfortunately no settings I input improve the outcome and I still can successfully print the first layer of a calibration test. After all my tweaking I think i have a bad printer.

[@brianwaterman8185]

i find im constantly adjusting my z offest, its never a set and forget between prints on my Kobra 2 Neo. Switching from textured pei to smooth peo im able to see my first layer better and make better adjustments to my z offest. thanks for the explanation.

[@Pabu_10]

Thank you for this! It is very helpful, i'm new to 3D printing. I'm sure this is applicable to Creality K1c right? I have to change the offset in the slicer not in the LCD screen.

[@jeremy6384]

3:03 the higher the number the lower the number? if we are talking about negative numbers, and if we all all agree that -2 is higher than -3, then the rule is the greater the number the greater the distance. Touching the bed might be a -5, a -4 adds some distance, a -1 is a good distance, correct?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Correct, but make only slight adjustments in hundredths of a mm.

[@jeremy6384]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh no I didnt adjust in the smallest amounts, I took that adjustment from a 2 to a -4 and scraped a nice sheperds hook into my bed. The new bed was $22 lol

[@Abovethesuns1]

I need help. Why isn’t my printer not showing the printer time?

[@luciaquinn6684]

Thanks for the video, but I have an issue ever since I changed the nozzle. What's worse? Sometimes the z offset is good, other time it peels off the print as it goes. What can I do about it?

[@ScienceMinute42]

I have the same printer. When I auto level, the z offset is too far from the bed and nothing sticks to the bed. Do you think there is something wrong with the sensor that sets the z offset?

[@Lucyk10]

I'm having this exact same issue. If you find a fix please let me know!

[@igorkomkov9572]

exactly what I looked for, you solved the problem, thank you so much for sharing!

[@heatedpoolandbar]

Thank you. Very informative for a new user. Granted, I understand how negative numbers work. I do have a somewhat related question, on my SE, everything was fine at first but I started having some adhesion problems. I re leveled the bed and my Z offset went from -1.76 to -1.91. This resolved my issue, but my question is what would have caused it to change? Was this an issue with the printer moving on the table slightly causing it to need to be adjusted or should I be worried about a lose part?

[@Crazyhmommy]

Thanks hoping this helps me as well. Was always told never go higher than .15 haha thanks for the info!

[@adamscott2706]

great video... only place I've found the answers I was looking for!

[@wednesdaygray7827]

Thanks for the information. My printer doesn't have the a "Z" offset on the LCD screen, so what I do is put the offset in the "Start G-Code" in the slicer (look for a G30 Z0.xx ).

[@neilbarnwell]

The picture is super, but by my calculations -3 is a lower number than -2, -1, 0 etc. The picture clears it up, but if this was audio-only, that part of the explanation would be super confusing.

[@olbilldoor]

I was just thinking I had a problem with my z-offeset. I thought my first layer was correct, but my parts come out about 1 layer short when doing a block. I think the nozzle is dragging the top IDK. anyway thanks for the content!

[@SpookySpooky_Ali]

when leveling I get 3 red light flashes then a purple light and an error that leveling failed. I also can not adjust the z access to the negatives. Any ideas on a fix for that?

[@kyuuketsuke86]

Thanks, I took some time off after just getting into the hobby, and I was having trouble with this!

[@steffengr.5556]

So I guess if I adjusted Z offset for a part of the bed where it when prints perfectly, but further away the print is either squished or too loose on the bed, what does that mean? Gantry not square?

[@zetacorn3749]

Like your videos! May I make a request. So I'm new 3D printing my first printer is the Ender 3 v3 SE. It was your videos that helped me set mine up. Thank you. Anyhow my request is could you make a video that is about acceleration and max speed settings that is in the between the your V2 settings you used and the v3's capabilities? The printer is fully capable of going much faster but since its so new there is literally nothing to help me in this quest.

[@zetacorn3749]

*Side note* does changing print speed in Cura itself affect the Max speed and Acceleration of the printer or does one override the other?

[@stewall101]

Simply explained, thanks

[@giovannizotti8549]

Hi! I've seen you suggest to put

[@ShrimpSmith]

Great video thanks. I received the Ender-3 V3 for fathers day. I have no problem printing little flat things but what does it mean if the head hits the top of the project knocking it over a bit and thus ruining the rest of the print?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Watch this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJeuh3egaLOfrcUsi=vwPEasAW1VQSs1yR

[@cilismoniker7322]

Can you please show how to do this with A1/A1 mini? I've heard you can do a z-offset in the machine code for the printer profile but I've been too sheepish to mess with it without good documentation or teaching.

[@kevinwalker3918]

Great video as always Tom!

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Thank you :)

[@calamitysnood]

Thank you for showing this in a way I understand!!!!

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

I'm glad it helped you :)

[@GamingPanda5748]

Could you do a video on using the Creality print setting to fine turn it. I’ve been having such a hard time getting my printer to print good and half the time it doesn’t stick to the plate or it starts dragging the lines and completely ruins the print

[@shawnfairbanks9339]

I have a qidi x 3 plus coming in next week… excited.

[@joe1597]

Appreciate all the tuning tutorials

[@bigcheese82]

Great vid thank you. I have recently bought an ender V3 se with auto bed levelling. But it's not doing a great job, particularly in certain areas on the board

[@MrWaldorfian]

I have an original Ender 3 so there is no Z-offset in the printer display that I can see. Am I stuck with only adjusting the bed wheels on the fly to try to fix first layer issues?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Yes

[@LoopBak127]

Great video. How are people finding the sweet spot? Just testing on the fly as they watch the first layer go on?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Yep

[@jeremychavez6246]

Why does my "se" always start at front left corner and not center?

[@definedrebel2451]

Thank You for your wonderful video man! Keep it up!

[@robjohnson165]

having a hell time wi my new printer thnks for making these videos :)

[@bersaleswinjimcrist2481]

could you please make an intensive guide for the ender 3 v3 se specifically setting up profile for prusa slicer would be much appreciated as well. I've been following your tips for this printer and had some promising results, which has been really helpful for a beginner enthusiast. but i can't seem to fine tune it to print flawlessly.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Sorry, I don't use Prusa Slicer as Cura produces better results.

[@cedden123]

Thank you! I almost have an high elf army printed on my ender 2 pro. But now the baeses come loose without a raft. Hopefully this helps. thanks again and looking forward to the a1 review

[@heysagej]

Thanks for an easy to understand explanation!

[@AstroHog]

I'm in need of help/advice. Elephants foot. I have a CR10. Using Cura Slicer I have the first layer perfect, super perfect in fact. second layer comes out scratchy and blobby, but my printer is not over-extruding, its perfectly calibrated, estep and offsets are adjusted, new build plate that is not warped. I get perfect walls but my second-fourth+ layers look terrible. New filament - both petg and pla, did temperature and flow rate tests and there's no solution in 12 cube prints. Getting elephants foot every time regardless of flow rate and cooling. I'm thinking my print settings must be off in the first few layers, but I can't seem to find the right settings to adjust. Any advice would be appreciated. If there are any recommended layer ratios (Height:Width), fan settings, top/bottom layers & thickness settings, or something else I've overlooked or should try readjusting again, let me know please. I'm avoiding rafts atm but as a last resort I will use rafts.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Try my custom Cura profiles on my website for PLA, you don't need PETG for gaming terrain or minis.

[@JpGameplaysz]

How can I do for Bambù lab a1 mini for example?

[@simonc.tremblay1154]

Great video on how to set Z-offset. One thing I still don’t get is WHY I would need to. I understand the squish, but if I was able to manually level the bed on my Ender 5, do I still need to set this? I’ve been printing for 3 years without it, but a friend who bought a printer last month talks about Z-offset like that magic setting that fixed everything for him. What am I missing?

[@opidopie]

Exactly the same question here, was hoping to find the answer but was questioning this for 7 minutes while watching paint images. When I level the bed with a piece of paper, there is a certain level of resistance between the paper and the bed I can choose from, issn't this the same as z-offset?

[@MTRUITT95]

Thanks for demystifying the Z axis!

[@deucedeuce1572]

Apparently, Cura and Creality both restrict the z-offset to 0.27mm. I've had a problem recently though where my printer will only print with a -0.8mm offset and I can't figure out why. Otherwise it just prints way too high up in the air, so the filament can't stick to the plate. I've checked everything I can think of or find online. The machine is a new Ender 3, but it doesn't have an option to set a z-offset at all.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Lower the Z end stop switch more (clip the small tab off of it that hits the aluminum extrusion (I cover this in my bed leveling videos, there's a couple of them).

[@deucedeuce1572]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Already tried that when I first got it, because the Z-stop was so high that my table could not be lifted enough without the springs becoming so loose that the wheels would back out while printing causing the table to raise and squish the parts. I had a problem with my z-stop switch "arm" getting jammed to the bar when it got pushed down too, so I trimmed less than 1/16" off the tip, so it's not touching the metal when it gets pushed down and since about that time it stopped working right. As far as I know though, I should just have to re-zero to make up for any difference with that (which I did)... but I'm wondering if zeroing is more complicate that "this is zero" and "this is zero" (z-axis switch and extruder tip). I don't think it should be though. It's ridiculous that the Ender 3 is plagues with so many (unfixed) problems. I did a lot of research and knew about so many of the possibilities before buying one and then I had every single problem I've ever heard about and then 10 times more than I ever could have imagined. Forgive the rant. I appreciate the reply and any suggestions. I'm at a loss as to how to fix it, and being disabled (Complex Regional Pain Syndrome), it's not easy having to spend more time fixing it than printing with it.