Tools and Wood Processing

[@Standswithabeer]

What you say in this video makes sense, and you seem to be talking about a slight paradigm shift, so please let me offer a few words in support: an axe has always been primarily a felling tool in my kit; there is no substitute for an axe and a bowsaw to fell and process wood. Hawks are specialized, IMO. Using the right tool for the job works really well-- and using a better, suitable tool-- works out even better. We know that the outdoors is an indifferent, unstandardized arena of almost infinite variety that will bite you if you let it; it looks to control you if you will not or cannot control yourself. It is a place where your deeds far outweigh your intent. As you said, "...an axe will hurt you-- bad". An axe in one's hand when it is dull, in disrepair, or if one is cold, hungry, pissed-off, in pain, distracted, or confused-- might lead to injury. Many of us have experienced at least one of these circumstances at some point in our woods career whilst holding an axe. Axe injuries are partly due to a combination of lax woodsmanship, inexperience, condition of the tool, and one's circumstances (including physical conditioning) and environment. Your poignant statement (video min 13:00), "...if you have no experience with an axe you really have no business using it in an emergency." is the real heart of the matter. Axing should be learned and practiced-- preferably with a mentor. All that being said, since I camp alone, need the axe infrequently, and just don't want to gamble on an axe injury (and yes--I am experienced with an axe), I have mostly forsaken my hatchet for an Old Hickory 14-inch gun-blued butcher knife. It is 1095 x 0.10 inch steel, very strong, and it hold a very long-lasting edge. I use it with a lanyard. It has no problem whatsoever taking down small trees. The second thing I do in camp is to make a maul/hammer for it out of deadfall to use on it. To make a long story short, the knife is easier & lighter to pack, works faster, cuts better, and is safer than swinging an axe around. One of your opening scenes where you surgically lopped off a tree limb with your "Knaxe" and your maul using very little effort in a short time, said it all. This makes sense, and fills a niche nicely in woodsmanship. Also, if this doesn't show how much you care about the safety of all woodsmen/women, then nothing does. Thanks, Dave. :)

[@magnadawg1]

Glad to see this tool used. I've owned a TOPS .170 since it came out and have been using it over an axe just as you demonstrate. It does fit nicely in my bedroll and is not overly weighty for what I can use it for. Definitely a worthy tool. Thanks for your knowledge, DC.

[@BlackScoutSurvival]

Really enjoyed the theories and applications you conveyed about tools being environmentally dependent. Large knives are definitely multifunctional and that looks like a good blade.

[@preparedmind101]

Great instructional video. The Jeff White blade looks well thought out.

[@markcoffman9522]

I can hear you droolin Chris.

[@lucasstarbuck6797]

This is the only KZbin channel I check everyday, several times a day. I always look forward to learning something new or refining my knowledge. Thanks for what you do. It must be very difficult to be a business man and also have to provide an opinion, all while trying to be diplomatic and inoffensive.

[@Jake-iy6lo]

I live in Eastern KY, and I like using a big knife. I have a KaBar 1280 kukri that I use a lot and does everything I need it to do, which are the same chores you demonstrated. The blade is a little over eight inches. That makes it easy to carry, and it's always on my person in the woods. I enjoy your videos Dave, thanks for reading my comment.

[@alirezaee2217]

I love your videos and everytime I learn something new. Having said that, from my limitted experience in my environment (Canadian Forests), after using heavy and light axes, hatchets, machetes, big knives, smaller knives, and saws, I found that a foldable hunter saw is a light, and nice tool to have with you. These tools they all have their uses but to cut medium trees, process it, and process bones, a foldable saw is almost unbeatable! This is of course my 0.02 for my uses, with my technique level and my environment but I thought to share the idea. Great blade btw.

[@BeardedWondererUK]

Great video making a good arguement for different tool uses. It helped me decide on my next purchase to be a small axe over a T-hawk.

[@BalderE]

so basically what you want is a good old viking seax :)

[@adrenalizd]

Hello Dave, I have watched over a hundred of your videos and really look up to you for the wonderful videos you share. I have seen hundreds of others who do reviews, etc. and it is immediately obvious that they have no experience and are only repeating what others have said. An example being something being reported as a poisonous plant that I know was in one of the original "bush craft" type books. Everyone with bushcraft knowledge knows that the plant is safe and doesn't require multiple boils to make it safe, yet people just repeat what they have heard. You however are different and actually practice what you preach, creating new knowledge as well as stuff that you have learned from the masters. I bring that up because I have a question that doesn't exactly pertain to this video, but with this being your most recent video I assume you would most likely see this comment. I have about 25 plus years in the woods and agree completely with you that the knife you have with you is the best one. I have spent several days in the woods with nothing but an old timer pocket knife that my grandfather gave me. I can split wood with wood wedges, but it is easier if you have the proper knife. With that being said, what would you recommend as a primary carry knife within the $100 to $200 range. I own the Mora bushcraft black and love it. its a great knife. I always carry a leatherman wave and a victorinox swiss champ with me at all times. I can make do with any of those if I have too. I also know that you recommend the old hickory. I have one of those as well as the Buck 119, 110, 102, 103, and 105 but none seem as if they would be the best primary carry knife. I wanted to know if you would mind sharing your recommendation. I thoroughly value your opinion because I know you only recommend things that you are well experienced with. I am not looking for a do it all tool, I have the laplander and an hults forest axe plus several saws, but I don't always carry those. I don't have the money to buy many knives to try out to find the right one, but I don't mind paying for quality. Thanks for the videos, keep up the good work!!!

[@adrenalizd]

I forgot to mention, I am in central Kentucky so my woods are basically the same as your neck of the woods.

[@michellesizemore1123]

I would go with the bush knife from daves store by jeff white use one all most everyday but thats just me

[@dakotabugg7204]

Mr Ballinger I also grew up on Kentucky back in the woods and I know live out in South Dakota. Two knives that I would suggest if you are open to suggestions are the bush knife by Jeff White that is available on the pathfinder store. Another option for a little larger knife is the Becker bk 7 by kabar. Both are fantastic knives that I have a lot of dirt time on and I trust them completely.

[@adrenalizd]

Thank you all so much!!!

[@futuresonex]

You've just described all the reasons that the Condor Kukri Machete, the Condor Bushcraft Parang & the Woodsman's Pal all rate among my favorite tools!

[@TheGearTester]

Another excellent video Dave! I really appreciate the way you approach wilderness reliance and survival. You do an excellent job of placing things in context. You have shaped the way I approach camping and survival over the last 6 years.

[@dennisleighton2812]

This video has helped me work something out, and I'd like to share that. Firstly the three items you present have occupied my thinking for some time. Now I've sorted it out (for me!). So, I'm going to identify priorities for each in terms of intended purpose: Long knife (9110" blade, 1/8-3/16 thick: 1. slashing (eg clearing brush/foliage etc, 2. cutting/shaping, 3. chopping (eg delimbing, kindling etc). Tomahawk: 1. weapon (throwing, or fighting), 2. light chopping, 3. splitting (small logs). Hand axe: 1. splitting lumber, 2. felling (small trees etc), 3. chopping (eg delimbing, kindling). In other words I think each tool is best suited to it's no 1 intended purpose, then 2 then 3. Clearly, in the scenario you sketched out, the long knife, as demonstrated, far out-performed the other two, but I did not quite appreciate just by how much. Now, if one has some sort of folding saw on hand to do the cross-cutting, then does one actually need an axe at all? I think you have answered that , for me at least. Last word: I have taken your thoughts about batoning to heart, and that merely confirms the place for a BIG knife. Confession: I once made myself a big knife ( Bushwhacker, I call it [5mm stainless, 8 1/2" blade, full tang]) and have been using it for decades, for all these tasks, and it has performed splendidly. However, I've never used it with a baton! So, a whole new lease on life has opened for my Bushwhacker! Thanks a ton. Any comments on my priorities above are invited.

[@kentcostello8099]

This video hits a lot of points. Every one has their preference on woodsman tools . You hit all the bases on that .thank you 😊

[@Shannon_Lacey]

Dave, I have an Ontario Kukri that I like very well for those kinds of tasks. It has an overall length of about 17" and is about 1/4" thick and is high carbon steel.

[@Patriot36]

Nice review Dave. Thanks for explaining the nuances.

[@cironicholas526]

At first I thought the mallet idea was silly until I saw you do it... worked like magic!

[@VietNormbo]

Im glad you made this video man I've preached this concept on my channel many times ! Axes are the best but if your not trained with an axe you have no business having one in your kit ! God forbid you chop your leg or foot you will be rendered useless ! A lot of people talked smack about nutnfacy philosophy of use on a large blade but hes stated this exact concept on his vids like over 7 years ago ! I'm glad to hear you preach it as well ! I've noticed a huge difference in your skill level a long these last few years I'm glad it's not about Ego I'm glad it's about whats practical ,what works and most importantly of all what's safest ! I look up to you brother you made it out of the "gutter " so to speak and have a substantial enough following now to make a huge difference ! With great power comes great responsibility ! God Bless !

[@sweetcostarica]

That's right. Lately, I find myself going more and more toward a small saw with a large knife or axe philosophy. This is mainly because of the Japanese pull saws. These saws are safe, need no skill level, work very fest, take the least amount of effort, and are packable in the smallest of packs. When I have a Silky saw on me I find my axes and knives get use much less and a Silky saw can last years on the same blade. An amazing wood processing tool. For the blade that Dave needs: Best big knife for chopping, cutting, and shaping wood for the "large knife idea" is the *traditional* kukri or *traditional* parang. I say traditional to eliminate the Western influenced tourist heavyweights shipped into the US. These are only good for chopping but the traditional blades of SouthEast Asia are designed to do exactly what Dave Canterbury is asking for because their weights, length, & spine thickness are designed for multipurpose use. In fact kukris & parangs original role was to cut bamboo (need a very sharp blade) but they are also for chopping light wood (need a forwardly balanced blade). In my opinion. Have a great day VietNormbo!

[@Red19UK]

People seem to get offended over nothing these days. Say that the sky is blue or trees are made of wood and some idiot will take issue. Just keep doing what you do Dave, theres a lot of us out here who watch your vids because we enjoy the content and always learn something new. All the best from England.

[@dennissmith7303]

I enjoyed your video comparison between an axe, tomahawk and a large knife. In Feb I bought a "Machete" w/a 5/16 spine blade that is 17 1/2" long and overall 24" long with a full tang Stainless blade. It has an enclosed ABS Rubberized handle and lanyard. Since I bought it that is what I have used until just recently bought a Cold Steel Riflemans Hawk Axe w/carbon steel head and Hammer head back w/22" Handle. I do like the new tomahawk but I will definitely keep the Machete & Hawk axe on my Allen pack frame tied to my backpack and bear canister. It's a great combo. I know you are not fond of the Sven Bow saw and I have that also. I know I have evolved and improved my setup and I co cider that thanks to you and as you say" all that you have done" for me. Thanks

[@chrisphoenix6564]

Your dog is back there looking at you like you're crazy... I thinks hes trying to figure out who you're talking to.

[@anthonychihanik7169]

Very nice Dave .. Awesome job as always !! Take care brother .. Hope the family is good ..

[@JamieHitt]

I get a ton of use from the Ontario SP53 and Ka-bar Cutlass. I know its not exactly the same thing, by any means, but its what I have at he moment. Also, everyone can laugh if they want, but its amazing the amount of work that I get done with a pair of ratcheting hand pruners when I am in the field. So small, so little effort, and I didn't swing a thing. ...goes through 1 1/2 inch stuff like butter.

[@oldtimerlee8820]

Jamie Hitt Not everyone laughs. :-) Some of us smile, because we also know the value of a good pair of loppers/pruners in the woods. Depending on the work to be done, have often carried both - one hand & two hand versions. IMO, often the best tool when tunneling through honeysuckle, climbing roses, kudzu & river cane. "So small, so little effort, and I didn't swing a thing" -- so true!

[@Hymensintact]

I can totally agree that a little pair of pruners would be effective in so many ways. My only concern is if a tool is in heavy use, the more complex it is (Or just having more moving parts), the more likely it is to fail/break.

[@6inchs]

Rubixcube9000 I like to keep it simple as well so I would carry a pair of simple bypass pruners if I wanted it to be reliable. Typically though I would only have a knife and possibly a small axe or machete on a day hike.

[@JamieHitt]

Joe B I agree. But when I'm making something that requires many cut pieces, It saves crazy time and makes precise cuts. Been using the same ones for years. Buy the quality ones (like anything else) and they'll be dependable for many years. Ounce for ounce, on one inch material, much faster than a folding saw and much less effort. That's kinda why they make 'em. I have the saw, axe and knife with me, as well of course but the ratcheting pruners are worth the extra weight to me. Hard to find the one's that do 1 1/2" without getting into the longer handles. I lucked out.

[@JamieHitt]

Rubixcube9000 Totally agree, but I was lucky enough to find a quality made pair. Every cut with them is less wear on my knife, saw, machete, or axe. I makes quick, precise cuts with less energy or fatigue. You can crank out some fast detailed work. Great for certain shelter designs and building traps in a jiffy. Between those and a scotch eyed auger, the forest becomes a tinker toy set.

[@aslamtu]

Thank you, Dave. Love the results from all three. The knife looks very impressive.

[@Traderjoe]

I think Dave is right about a few things regarding safety and a tool specific to his environment. I know there will be some who will say that its obvious that Dave would prefer the knife, because he is investing in its design and production, but I think there is more to it than that, and that is the logic behind it in terms of safety. Even a novice can handle a knife like that safer than a novice handling a axe or tomahawk, simply because those tools have a sharp edge on a heavy massive end that you need to swing. The tendency is to swing towards the wood and unless you know better, it is kind of natural to assume that it will never miss or never go completely through the wood and the mass will carry the sharp edge right into your leg and give you a very bad injury. But the knife (or machete) is used more effectively as a chopper as Dave illustrates with a batton, and virtually no novice will place the edge towards themselves, because it is easier to strike the back of the blade if the back of the blade is facing towards you.

[@livingsurvival]

I'm a big fan of batoning unless you are going to process large amounts of firewood in the winter for example. For a one tool option, I'd rather have a large knife. Safer and quicker once you get past the larger stuff. Good video.

[@crosshair64]

Very informative video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience on this topic, I appreciate it Dave.

[@alexenyart2868]

This is almost exactly what I've been looking for, for years. Can't wait for when it's available.

[@thomasjohns8184]

Thanks Dave another good vidio. My wood processing knife of choice is an old gurkas khukari knife that's been passed on to me and said to be hundreds of years old. The story goes that it started it's life as a Maharaja s sword and you can still see Vedic writing on the upper blade. Sharpens up like a razor.

[@deweybarnes61]

great video as usual Dave....thank you.

[@kullcraven]

Well done, my cold steel kukri is one of my favorite tools. I can see why you chose that cutting tool. Thanks for sharing.

[@dzoutdoor3335]

Awesome! I also live in Southeastern Ohio and have the same problem. Lots of thick heavy brush, swampy areas and a machete just doesn't do the job as well as I would like. I hate carrying an axe in late spring, summer, and early fall when I like to travel as light as possible. I've tried making something similar to this tool but my blacksmith skills are not there yet lol. This looks like a great option that will do multiple things better for the area I live and stomp in. I also do a lot of canoe/kayaking in swampy overgrown areas were trimming overhanging brush would be easier with a shorter but heavier tool than a machete but without the awkwardness and danger of swinging an axe around me while in a canoe or kayak. Thanks for sharing this video with us. I look forward to trying this tool out soon.

[@manumuskin]

Here in South jersey the woods look much like they do there in Ohio.A lot of wild rose and catbriar sometimes in walls ten feet tall.I generally try to wiggle through or smash em down when I"m trying to get through but sometimes I get what I"d call "Hung Up". I find that at this point anything I have to swing is just going to yank more crap down on top of me or across my face and catbriar can be so tough that if the blade isn't freshly honed a lot of times it's like steel wire.I have taken to carrying a pair of tin snips with me in my pocket.I can lock em when not in use and no need to swing with em.It can be time consuming to cut through a big patch with em.I don't like to leave a lot of trails behind me anyway since most of the time I"m on state land so with a pair of Briar Britches and a pair of tin snips I usually get through with only minor lacerations and blood loss.:-) I hope this didn't offend anyone:-)

[@oldtimerlee8820]

Alfred Shumate Here it's wild rose and blackberry briers. Easy to slip a pair of hand pruners in my back pocket or on my belt, if I know I'm going to be dealing with those on a limited scale. If the need is anticipated, a pair of two-handed loppers come along, as well. Best tool for the job, based on our circumstances, is the one we choose, regardless of who becomes offended. ;-)

[@williammanning3174]

Dave! I hear you talk about an axe that is 18-20" and that makes me appreciate you a lot because I have been hand hewing hickory HATCHET handles at 20" for years now. there is no profit in it. it's just "therapy" for me. I use my first "long hatchet" which is my "baby" and I named it "chop stick", to hew new "long hatchet" handles. I currently have 2 handles waiting for a good halfting!

[@earthprisoner]

Dave, any tool you use looks looks it's great, I think it's the experience more than the specific tool!

[@sebbe4717]

the tongue-twisting at the end of each video is enough to make me a subscriber! thanks for the videos!

[@davidgonyeau1825]

Good video Dave, I like that knife you were using, and completely agree that it is a safer way to get the job done, particularly when you are cold wet and tired. I have a couple of Hudson Bay brush axes which have seen a lot of use in the last 40 years, but you or the untrained can be at risk, particularly if you're cold, wet, and tired, which is when you don't need to invite Murphy to the party. I particularly like the fact that you can choke up on the blade, nice touch. Keep up the good work.

[@accordio13]

Cold, wet , and tired is especially in point in Colorado mountains.......especially the tired part!! Will be there again this fall at age 71!! David's knife here is a winner at any cost. Weight/Function!!

[@millerdumaoal1456]

the knife reminds me of a Filipino Bolo knife. cant wait until its ready for purchase. Thanks Dave! for another great instructional video.

[@OOTurok]

Totally agree with you on the big knife thing. I've found my Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri to be so indispensable as a woodsman tool; everything form brush cutting, delimbing dead trees, to wood processing. It still doesn't chop as well as an axe, but it's almost as good. I still pair up my kukri with a tomahawk, for having more capabilities at camp. Sometimes I'll even bring a saw, if my system can take the weight, but if I could only choose one... it would be the kukri.

[@anthonybeers]

I find that knives and machetes give me blisters really quickly. I've also used an ax almost every day from the age of 12 to 18. Cool tool if you like it though.

[@captainamer71]

Dave excellent video.

[@kennethmccluskey4688]

Really liking the looks of that knife! Love your videos and have learned quite a bit by watching them.

[@dennisjpoleyjr8713]

I'll take it! Great design for a North American machete. Shorter, thicker, more rigid than a jungle machete. I've been using an older Kershaw kukri, 9" blade, as a outdoor/camp knife in the woods, and around the house as a firewood processer, garden/landscape maintenance tool. Its a little shorter than ideal, I would like to try a Cold Steel kukri, with its longer blade,10" or 13.5", and a little more weight and mass. When I head outside I will usually carry the bigger Kershaw, with a smaller 3/12 - 4 " blade instead of a small,31/2", and medium 5" blades and an axe or tomahawk. The wider blade also makes it more versatile in emergencies, you can dig dirt, shovel snow, paddle a boat, hammer with the sides of the blade( tent stakes, crush nuts, break bones). It also will do quite well in a defensive situation, looks alone will sometimes do the trick!

[@Tre3141]

Let me warn you, those cold steel machetes don't hold an edge well. I once used one to chop through a 6 inch fallen tree and after I was done the edge was all rolled over and it gave me massive blisters.

[@orionrj16]

***** Dennis may have been talking about the "real" kukri that Cold Steel offers. The matchete version is way to thin and light for that kind of work, and for $20 I doubt they give it a lot of love and quality steel.

[@dennisjpoleyjr8713]

***** Sorry guys I misspoke, I meant to say Schrade kukris, I was on the Cold Steel website earlier and I guess it stuck in my head.

[@jasonsbrownell]

I'm first and fore most an axe guy. That being said, I have had a Condor Hudson Bay Knife for about 5 years now and I constantly find situations where I have really enjoyed having the option of a different style. I find it to be my go-to when on longer canoe trips that go well into the night. The safer batoning action just works a lot better and the processed wood is a bit easier to find afterwards. As always, thanks for the video it was great to see something that reinforces what I've been doing.

[@crodproductions0420]

Thanks for your videos and insights I enjoy watching and learning from you. I like that knife. As far as clearing brush and vines I prefer what in southeast Alabama is called a bush hook. Double edged blade attached to about 4 ft. of hickory. It's dangerous but effective and gives you distance because those vines usually have torns. Thanks again for all your videos. Thank you for the time you spend on them. Look forward to the next. God Bless.

[@flatbrokefrank6482]

DAVE - you carry the tools that you find useful in your environment - you demonstration and the thick strangler vines show which one is the most useful - I live in the uk so we carry knife, axe and pruning saw as a basic kit - like you say horses for courses - ATB

[@dozzac510]

As usual...thought provoking..educational..interesting and informative...

[@shyamlynn243]

thanks David. I appreciate you sharing your experiance. it's extremely helpful

[@aprilezell3784]

Thank you for the thorough breakdown of those three tools. I have been debating on whether to get an axe or a long blade. I continue to practice with our axe at home cutting wood but I do think the long blade will work for me backpacking. Thanks!

[@pietaushamburch6128]

Great video, Dave! Thx a lot for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@nerblebun]

When I was working in Panama, I picked up a Brazilian made Tramontina about the same length as the knife you're demonstrating. Basically it's just a shortened machete which for me, makes it easier to swing therefore a good brush/jungle knife. But that's all I use it for. Blades just not thick enough to feel comfortable processing wood.

[@darangemaster1]

Dave I've been using a short Ontario machete in the same manner for a while and it works great!

[@woodsmansmindsetchannel5260]

I'll take a bow saw over an axe everyday of the week and twice on Sunday as long as its part of a multi tool system. Bow Saw blade, "Condor Village Parang", small knife with a 4 inch blade 1/8 inch thick and a big belly, and my SAK pocket knife with a saw, awl, gutting blade and locking cutting blade. There is really nothing in the eastern woodlands you can't do with that tool setup. I would say that blade you are using is pretty sweet it reminds me of the short Ontario Vietnam machete. Its way thicker than a standard machete and its made from 1095 H.C. steel I think so it has some things in common. That Ontario short machete is one of the most underrated blades that I have ever seen its a beast I bet I have torqued the blade 20 degree's or so batoning through knots and it never even thinks about staying bent or breaking and holds a kickass edge. That's an awesome budget blade especially for all the folks who go buy the Gerber machete's and stuff..

[@shcmoly]

Dave the tool-man Canterbury! How many guys have a 4,000 acre backyard and actually use it often? I'm guessing not many, Dave is a lucky man.

[@domcarbone3149]

I'm watching Dave make this video and I'm very jealous. Up here in Massachusetts we have gotten almost 6 feet of snow in the last couple of weeks and going outside to do anything is a struggle.

[@ogrehulkroids]

So I'm going to purpose a very unpopular tool with bushcrafters, the kukri style machete. I've been using mine for almost 4 years and it never fails me. I baton with it, clear brush, even make fire sticks and shavings. On a trip earlier this winter my Axe handle broke halfway through the first of 4 logs I was cutting from a 8-9 inch white oak that had been down about 6 months. I'm not saying it was easy but I did finish all four logs in less than 30 minutes. Great all around tool, carbon steel, 90° spine, very light.

[@carlheitzenrater7123]

Thank you Dave for a good video

[@madpunty8571]

A Bushcraft Bowie! Love it. Woodsmen have been using large knives forever, from large bowie's to barongs. This one I would put in the same family.

[@GWHcraig1088]

very well put Dave.

[@VIKINGOINTRUDER]

Maybe a tool to perform better in an environment other, but definitely not the tool but the skill in using what will make us take better advantage of its benefits. Thanks Mister Canterbury. It really is a great reference as far as I'm concerned. Greetings from Argentina.

[@ozarkriverrat7086]

Great vid. Agree completely on your direction. I have expensive custom knives but I can't bring myself to use them hard. My "bedroll", pack knife is a BK 9. It works well for me in your scenario. The timber in my Ozark mtns. is very similar to yours. I rarely tote an axe here. Maybe, in a snowy cold wet winter. Usually, I carry my BK-9, a good folding saw and a belt or neck knife like a Mora or BK-16 and a pocket knife or mullti-tool. Most of of us modern "mountain men" are seldom in the woods for more than 3 or 4 days and an an hour or to from a McDonald's so our choices on tools is seldom life threatening. So what tool you or I choose should not offend anyone. But you do need to get out and use your tools to see what works for you in order to form an informed opinion.

[@jamescooper2618]

Great video Dave! I Feel that each tool has its own uses and that using one tool for all purposes will some times leave you lacking. I really like the Jeff White blade though as it looks like it will do several things well. Thanks!

[@karsonbranham3900]

That forest knife looks like the "bees knees"!! Very good demonstration of similar tools and their strengths and weaknesses. Thanks again Dave for a good video and bring a very nice option to the masses!

[@ThunderingCreation]

Whats with all the thumbs down???!!! ... I shake my head in disbelief. I for one enjoyed yer vid Mr Canterbury, Thanks.

[@tomritter493]

big knives work all the time and all around blackie Collins taught the use of big blades back in sf.school

[@wyattoneable]

I like it. From what I view is that the knife offers some control the axe or tomahawk does not. Especially when used with a baton. I appreciate your effort not to offend someone, it's too bad we have to be so careful but your one of the best. Thanks again Dave.

[@hvy1ton]

When kneeling it's pretty much impossible to hit yourself with a short axe or hawk. The ground interrupts the arc between your target and you. I know i've seen you talk about it on this channel somewhere.

[@daddynjulia]

Really like the large brush knife. Seems to work great w/ baton.

[@shiftshadow9780]

...and still a heavyweight champion of the woods, thank you Dave!!

[@paulbeckwith5981]

Outstanding conclusion Dave! Flying in the face of "conventional wisdom" it makes so much sense. Certainly something I will try when processing firewood (now all I need to do is find a suitable knife on this side of the pond!)

[@MrJynxdog1]

Dave, great point you made here. I live in south east Ohio and have the same brush issues that you addressed here. I find myself camping near the Ohio or other river systems for reasons of hydration. In the summer i carry a large some think to large Bowie type knife, 17" blade that works well with brush. (even thought about a bush knife once but why buy more than i need) then in fall and winter i carry a 28" boys axe for processing more wood. i rarely go out in below 0 temps but if i did probably take my 36" felling axe and a beefier saw. Tool for the times, so true.

[@jtostros]

thanks for showing off that great knife. It was great to see how it did.

[@Quodge]

Took a Mora 711, Cold Steel Bushman and GFB Small Forest Axe on a 4 month free camp/eco village adventure to portugal. Worked and camped in a range of environments from Coast to Mountains. The Usefulness of the Mora basically made the Bushman redundant. So much today we are looking for the next expensive flashy thing. I just marvelled at the £11 knife which was better than what my ancestors used for countless millennia. Of the two knives it is undoubtedly my favourite, which wasn't the case before I left. The SFA made lots of firewood and kept us warm :) I never turned the bushman into a spear.. But knowing that I could do made it worth its weight to me. You could also use a shorter stick to make it a better choppa should you lose the axe. The main problem I have with it is not liking the 2ndary bevel shape it comes with.. feels too flat compared with the high sharp scandi grind of the Mora. By the end of it both sheaths were looking worse for wear. I got the old style bush an sheath. The cydex held fine but the belt loop stiching has come partially undone. Looking rather flimsy.. should be repairable though. The plastic Mora sheath changed colour around the belt loops due to the stress of removing the knife. No doubt in time it will eventually sunder.. estimate about another 2/4 months use. All the best. Guess thats a little thanks because I watched a lot of your videos preparing for the trip :) Hope this helps you to keep on helping people get out there.

[@oldvoljin]

I really like the knife Dave, and I live Jeff's work. if you start selling this I will buy one no doubt

[@paulie4x1]

Hi Dave I agree with you 100%, about a long knife for the bush, I know your area and I just live a little further North of you, I got a Woodsman Pal because the designer that made the tool lives East of us in P.A. and it work's OK in our type of bush, the only thing I would like you to consider is having the blade have a relief edge like a Saber Grind and even the Scandi Grind's have a relief edge it's just much much lower than a saber grind, I studied this and found out that the wood splits at that top of the relief edge, where on a Full Grind the relief edge is the spine so there's more wood drag with a Saber Grind because the relief edge is lower, take a Mora for instance it's a thin blade with a low relief edge and it does baton well, same with my larger knives like my BK-9 it baton's great, same with my O.K.C. GEN2 SP-51 which is a little thicker and one of my go to blades for wood processing, I don't feel a thicker blade has that much more advantage over a thinner blade, both my BK-9 and my SP-51 work great, but the Relief Edge makes a big difference over a Flat Grind, sure a flat grind is a great slicer and cut's more like a Machete but with the right angle like the 20° my BK-9 has I find it to slice just fine and a saber grind chop's more like an axe, I think it's in the edge angle the thickness doesn't matter as much, so a thinner blade with a relief edge is what I look for in our playpen, another illustration, take a Leuku thin blade Scandi Grind (Relief Edge) and you have a pretty good chopper and very versital tool, in my opinion one of the best one tool knife options out there, except the steel is softer because their forests are softer wood than ours, anyhow that's my $0.02 on a tool for our wood in our playpen, think about it sure the flat grind is lighter but as far as wood processing I find a thinner heavier relief edge blade is unchallenged.

[@bobbyharper8710]

This weekend I was using a Cold Steel kukri to clear brush, trim limbs , debark a pole, and split firewood.

[@orionrj16]

The kukri style blade does very well as a "chopping machete." I own a KaBar Kukri, and although I honestly don't have extensive experience with it in the bush, I have to say it has been fantastic so far. The first big test it was put to was when the wind broke a tree apart in the front yard. The kukri had a long enough edge to make quick work of smaller branches, and its front-heavy design allowed it to be able to chop up thicker limbs up to 5 inches in diameter. Now there are absolutely better options for that kind of work. An axe or chainsaw would have been much less exhausting, but given that the kukri is all I had, it did wonderfully given that it's "a big knife." The other little test I had for it was batoning some larger pieces of very dry, straight grained wood. Pretty much a breeze, but this particular kukri has a fairly thin blade... so as I was using it I could see it bending sometimes. But it never stayed bent. Im sure other Kukris are just as good or better than the KaBar, and I think they make a fantastic "big knife."

[@Maedelrosen]

Looking forward to getting a Gränsfors Bruk, could only hope the signature is 'TT', he's a good musician as well as a blacksmith . Also thanks for sharing experience man, helps a lot of people

[@ToddIngram1000]

What knife was that?

[@shaneschannel9289]

IRONY! After years of trash talking bowie knives and fans of them like me you are now developing a remarkably similar knife. Apparently we were not so clueless after all. Styles vary, but you can reasonably call that a bowie knife.

[@DeepSouthExperience]

The closest to the original Rezin Bowie, I have seen in a long time. Much thicker and wider though

[@shaneschannel9289]

Yeah people mistake the huge, clumsy, modern Chinese "bowies" from the real thing. This video does give me hope that some day arrogant people will stop talking to me like a clueless idiot for promoting bowies. THEY WERE NOT JUST FIGHTING KNIVES!

[@jeffgrier8488]

That was a great video Dave, and I like that knife, it would make a unique tool.

[@laneca89]

Great video. Very informative as usual. Keep it up

[@rule413]

My BK9 with a heavy "mallet" works for me on the bulk of the wood I process. Mora classic #2 for my smaller stuff. Good info. Thank you

[@americanslime]

I know Kochanski suggests lashing any Mora-sized knife to a pole and using that as a brush-clearing tool. I've tried it a little bit and it works okay. I'm sure it won't work as well as something like this, but it's an option. I definitely share the concern, as my area is covered in wild rose and bittersweet. Even so, it's not often that I can't simply go around it. I see its value as a splitting tool, but if we're talking about emergency preparedness, I'm not sure how often one is going to find themselves stranded in the woods with a pile of 12-20" saw cut logs waiting to be split. Odds are any wood you might split in an emergency would have to have been sectioned with the same tool or with a fire, so I would question its usefulness in relation to an axe considering that. I generally carry a larger axe than the one in the video though, so the difference is a bit more exaggerated for me. But this is all highly theoretical and I'm not a big fan of that sort of thinking, so I'll leave it at that.

[@jpf3082]

have you ever used a french billhook? works great on raspberry brambles and poison ivy.

[@2bonosc]

The " Long knives", as natives called us and Mr. Bowie seem to have come full circle, eh? Great Vid as always.

[@MrEli204]

Another great video, thank you.

[@gregstritch9736]

Love my Jeff White fixed blade in the Florida winter with 15" Norlund hatchet and 27" Norlund small axe. Change the 15" Norlund for a 18" SOG machete to get thru summer thorns and vines. Like the thought of the larger JW blade in lieu of machete. Thanks for sharing.

[@dilutedrep2864]

Looks like a good product . In the desert most trees or bushes are thin and brittle so i often dont need an axe but a machete is often to thin

[@BruceNitroxpro]

Well thought out presentation. Many people just don't plan for their challenges... for example, KNOWING their environment isn't going to be changing much over time and limiting their tool set to the area they live near. If you expect to be a Seal and deploy anywhere in the world, your mind set is notably different. I don't know any Seals or live like one, either.

[@dylanking8294]

nice video, great closing words.

[@Iwillbedurnd]

The desert! Bushes are the only thing out here!!! I need to have one of these it would fit perfectly for this environment!

[@midgefodder5282]

Over in this part of the world We'd use a Billhook. It's a great tool for that kind of environment. Hedge layers use the Billhook as a primary tool, they are geared for thin spindly and tangly plants, as well as use on thicker woods.

[@iaxable]

To Pipercub49: a machette has a soft and very springy, flexible steel (dulls easily but easy to resharpen). Knife steel favors edge retention and has to be thicker in spine to avoid breakage (soft steel=flexible, bends without breaking; the harder the steel the more it is prone to chipping and breaking if bent, think glass).

[@jessewellsproductions3979]

Great information and insight!

[@mdouble100]

I have processed a lot of wood with axes of various sizes. I truly understand the potential for injury. Twisted grain, knots, deflected blows, and misplaced strokes are hazards well known to wood cutters everywhere. I agree with your thoughts that in many situations a strong knife like tool is a better option. Hacking through underbrush is the perfect application of such a tool. Combing the versatility of machete with the simplicity of a belt knife just seems obvious.

[@oxycrimson]

David, you know you have to hike your own hike. I've rarely met people that carry the same tool set that I do, but I have learned an awful lot from what they carry and why they carry it. I hike mostly on government land and Friends land, so I don't do a lot of Trail clearing, just enough for a campsite. Southern Indiana looks a lot like your land, so I try to follow the water sources, game trails and ridgelines nature provides.

[@brentiers]

Being from the South Carolina bush, I'd say that knife-chete seems like a well thought out effective tool. I'd like to try it.

[@paulie4x1]

Hi Dave, 1095 is known as "Knife Steel" but they also used it for car springs like in coil spring's and railroad spikes it's pretty good stuff and if properly tempered it's very good, I live in Ohio too, and I plan to meet up with you I hope soon. Alot of my friends almost laughed and all questioned me what I was going to do with my Swamp Rat Rodent Rucki it's a 15 1/2" blade lenght and 3/16th's thick ot also has a choil, and here you are suggesting a lo g blade knife, I bought my Rodent Rucki just for the same reason your suggesting that Jeff White Long Blade Knife, my Rucki chop's great and because of the choil I don't have to put it done for a smaller knife to finish the job, it also baton's great too, I think you are suggesting a great tool for our type of wood's my Rodent Rucki is already proving it's worth.

[@s1l3nze]

The long knife seems to be a great option Dave but i don't think i would personally carry it...especially if it means i have to give up the 18" husqvarna i usually carry. Lemme tell ya the shelters i can build with that baby are amazing! I will admit that the extra gallon of gas plus bar oil and sharpening file do get cumbersome thru thick brush at times, but being able to build a twin size bed frame on the go is great!!!