Top 10 Applicator Mistakes I Hear About | Branson Cerakote and Laser

[@speedfreak1000z28]

Who actually says feel free to call me and ask a question anymore? This dude is awesome I've said it before in other comments not a lot of people are willing to help other people but you are and that's a very rare thing in today's world. Keep up the good work.

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank my mom for that. That's how I was raised, lol. Glad to help.

[@BransonCerakote]

@Venture Designs I'm really a robot. It's all AI. lol

[@OhshitPositive]

I actually called and talked to John today with a beginner DIY question. Not only did he tell me exactly what I needed to know, but he also pointed me in the right direction on how to save a little more money by showing me where I can find smaller amounts of blasting media. Solid dude! And Roll Tide!

[@clarkkent4991]

That’s the mark of a solid guy. I just reached out to him for help. I hope he can help me. My dad and I are working on my build to celebrate that he survived his cancer fight. I hope he can help me. Even if he can’t I appreciate his video and time.

[@timothygarrahan2122]

I graduated from SMS and after retiring from DoD (31 years) I lived in Nixa for 5 years before moving out here to Prescott, AZ. I wish I’d have known about your operation cause I’d have had you do some pistol work for me; damnit! I’m sure there’s good people around here as well, but just watching your video I’d feel comfortable with you folks.

[@360TacticalSolutions]

I love #10 on this list. I’ve read hundreds of posts online and watched more hours of video on KZbin than I care to admit to in relation to application of cerakote. Your videos have given solid and consistent advice through my initial learning process. Many times other videos and blogs have conflicting advice or “shortcuts” that I’ve tested out only to find if I had followed their advice over yours a project I wanted to do would have had to be sanded down and started all over. As a side note you guys have the best stencils out there. Top quality, amazing selection and if there’s something I want to custom order I always get a fast reply with mock ups to approve before the final cut and ship. Thanks for all the time you put into these videos. Keep it up

[@BransonCerakote]

I've seen videos where the entire process was wrong, but if it's on the internet, it must be true! lol Thanks for the shoutout. That side of it is all Laura. :)

[@glynecollymore5569]

God bless you bro. The fact you are so open to help speaks volumes.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to!

[@sbridge3432]

John, you are truly the Real Deal. The world needs more people like you. I've been applying Cerakote for about 3 years now; done probably 40-50 firearms. Could not count the number of times I've used your advice and you've never steered me wrong. Keep up the good work and a huge thank you from all of us who are better at our craft because of your advise.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help, and thanks for watching. Sorry to everyone that there hasn't been much new content lately. I promise there's some cool stuff coming with the new shop opening, some SOT projects, and our new staff.

[@coastemac]

The single most helpful cerakoter I've found. I will continue to watch everything you publish.

[@BransonCerakote]

I really appreciate that. I tell everyone we are gun folks first, and business people second. We figure the more cool projects there are out there, the better. Thanks for watching.

[@migue0289]

Wow. This video is awesome. I’ve done some hobby cerakote projects before, and I’ve run into some of these issues. Thank you for explaining why they happen and how to fix them. Now I can correct and keep going. Great content!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@BreezyBeary]

I appreciate all your help. I’ve learned so much over the last year of cerakoting my guns and other things. Can’t wait I would like to meet in person next year as we are moving to Branson. Truly and inspiration and as my cerakote skills have evolved so much I look to get better and better with more projects.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help brother. Swing by the shop!

[@toxic1venom]

John, you are the man. God Bless you. You've helped me tremendously.

[@BransonCerakote]

Always glad to help.

[@kirkwest6654]

Digging in for the first time...you are golden sir

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks for watching!

[@daveopie4747]

You are a great guy, helping others, just to help. I am a DYI, for as much as I can do, and am now trying my hand at Cerakote. Your videos are are a huge help, THANK YOU

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you brother. We are always glad to help, and if you ever have questions, don't hesitate to call the shop.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Excellent info- thanks John!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@geoffmcclellan236]

Branson cerakote videos have helped me get going in cerakote. Always good videos and a good place to go for stencils. Thanks John!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching. :)

[@mayhaw213chapman9]

I can honestly say I've learned more from your videos than any others out there. Your willingness to teach and offer up information is just incredible . Hurricane Michael took my old shop, but my new shop is up, just waiting for electrical. However my new shop will have many upgrades thanks to what you have taught me. Thank from Mayhaw, Georgia

[@BransonCerakote]

That's awesome. Glad to help.

[@johnblythe8229]

Thank you for extending your expertise and willingness to assist. That said I reciprocated by buying several templates online last night and pleasantly found that you quickly packaged and shipped. Look forward to using and tentatively returning as a repeat customer.

[@BransonCerakote]

We appreciate your business. We've always been willing to help, and youtube is just an extension of that. We are gun folks first and a business second. Plenty to go around for all of us. If you run into any problems, shoot me a call.

[@johnblythe8229]

@@BransonCerakote Gun guy here as well. With limited primers to handload, decided to update several of my rifles with an airbrush using Duracoat. Was hoping to find kryptek camo templates on your site but wasn’t able to locate. Did I overlook?? Another template for consider - a Tasmanian Devil

[@BransonCerakote]

@@johnblythe8229 They threatened to sue us for selling them. Try freedom stencils. Email us for the other.

[@DrJones-ni5mb]

Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. It is great to hear real advice from someone who has already been through the pains of figuring out Cerakote.

[@BransonCerakote]

I've never had a problem with sharing. Thanks for watching.

[@chaseharrison8842]

Thanks for always being open to help! You videos are awesome every time!

[@BransonCerakote]

I appreciate that!

[@landrecce]

Thank you so much dude! You're an excellent teacher!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help. :)

[@darinmartins7146]

I've used Branson's stencils almost exclusively for my biz AA&G for a few years now. Great product and coming from a applicator that understands what works is a huge help. It's so nice to see industry people helping each other instead of running each other down. You're a good egg Branson Cerakote!

[@BransonCerakote]

I try. Laura may disagree, lol. We appreciate your business.

[@keithsaunders6342]

Thank you so much for making this video, and offering to share your knowledge.

[@BransonCerakote]

We are always glad to help. Call the shop if you get stuck.

[@MontsweagGarage]

I am preparing to tackle my first Cerakote project and your videos have been a great help. Thank you and keep up the awesome videos.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@deeg4599]

Great advice man!!! Only thing I'd add is removing stencils at 10-15 minutes after the last layer is tack free to prevent issues. Happy Independence Day man.

[@BransonCerakote]

Absolutely! You too. :)

[@warrenmoyses4424]

Liking you mate...honest & true to your craft.

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you brother.

[@tylerjones-ql4mp]

I legitimately can not thank you enough for all the tips and things I have learned from you. As I've progressed with my cerakote applicating over the past year, time and time again I turn to your videos. As I am on the verge of doing cerakote for others, I hope in time I can turn around and help others.

[@BransonCerakote]

That's been the goal all along, to build up a community of applicators that are willing to help each other. For us, we are gun people first, and a business second.

[@bertguy3068]

I watch and learn from your videos. First time commenting though. Appreciate all the time and effort you put into them to help us out. Really appreciate the quality of your stencils in every way. Used others that just ended up in the trash. Unweedable...lol Shout out to Laura on custom orders!!! Keep up the good videos!!

[@BransonCerakote]

Laura and Kristy are def the rock stars of the shop. Thanks for watching.

[@iambenwillett]

Great content. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Getting ready to start coating wheels. Waiting for the oven to be built now and watching your videos while I am waiting.

[@BransonCerakote]

Be careful. H and Elite are not very UV stable. They will fade within a few months if kept outside 24/7.

[@snowgorilla9789]

Thanks again for more tips I missed the 8-10 minute air cure could have been an Oh Shit

[@BransonCerakote]

That's a common one. I honestly blame NIC for not making it a bigger deal in the pamphlet. It can make or break your project.

[@jetkrazee]

@@BransonCerakote I'm very new to the cerakote scene and just made an attempt at my second project. I too was unaware of the 8-10min air cure. When I applied my second coat it didn't want to stick, actually ran away in areas like water being sprayed on to a waxy surface. Could this have been caused by the lack of air dry between coats and tacking?

[@BransonCerakote]

@@jetkrazee That's probably exactly what it was.

[@DavidLLambertmobile]

I had a 2022 Florida shop screw up a Glock 22 gen 4 slide. Cerakote Elite. Carbon Grey color. I was told the shop Carbon Grey elite was older & may not work correctly. Cerakote can weaken, degrade. I was unaware of it. The Cerakote seemed thin, wore off, peel off quickly. Not just Kydex holsters or carry. The shop didn't apply it properly.

[@BransonCerakote]

I misunderstood your last comment. I thought you meant they told you it degrades once sprayed, which it won't. If they sprayed old coating, they were wrong. Cerakote is good for 1 year from the time it is opened. It's pretty obvious from an applicator standpoint when it's bad. They shouldn't have sprayed it if it was thick from age. I don't know what shop it was, but that's a good example of why folks should shop around and look at the work a shop has done in the past.

[@jamesseagraves1705]

Great information thanks

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@michaelboyd5746]

Awesome instruction, thanks!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@RitualLion]

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience. Awesome!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@erikscustomguns]

Great information thank you!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@keenlyside283]

Wow what an excellent channel and really decent person to be providing this real world advice. Well done sir!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@irahoward5911]

Thank you very much for the excellent advice

[@BransonCerakote]

Any time!

[@justinsutherby870]

I appreciate you and your channel

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you brother. Let us know if we can help with anything.

[@Felenari]

Good watch ty.

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you for watching!

[@brenttanner9889]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@bravo26062]

Always enjoy your videos. Thank you! Still enjoyed your 3 day training last year

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to have you. Hard to believe we've done over 60 classes!

[@glynecollymore5569]

Awesome thanks brother

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@prtowell]

Sincerely appreciate all the help while I'm getting started in this very expensive hobby... I've turned out some nice work so far by following advice from your videos... One thing I didn't know until I read in a comment below was that stencils need to be removed after tack... Had some yellow bleed into my white on stars and stripes pattern. It was a battleworn look anyways, so actually looked better in my opinion, but still good info. Thank you for the 411!!!

[@BransonCerakote]

Did the yellow bleed over during the acetone battlewear?

[@finalaccuracy7695]

You guys are awesome for sharing all this knowledge

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks!

[@GMPowderCoating]

Great vid

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you!

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

I was looking at this, and Anodizing at home as alternatives to do coatings on Aluminum Archery Bow Risers. Good Info. TY.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

@@BransonCerakote Thank You back. I have painted for 30 some years, but never anodized or tried anything like this. I just stumbled on this product on YT today, I think it would do wonders for Bow Risers.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@TwistedSisterHaratiofales Yep. We have done a bunch of titanium risers for Oneida. They turned out really nice.

[@HVACRTECH-83]

Very true about internet info, I see a so called pro company putting videos up recommending not to blast the surface to remove factory finishes prior to cerakoting. They claim it’s because cerakote is a weak finish and when it wears at least it will have the factory black finish underneath to protect the firearm still. They seem to badmouth the product quite a bit but continue using it in their videos and I left a message saying maybe you are having all these bad experiences because you’re applying it incorrectly.

[@BransonCerakote]

I know which ones you're talking about. I made a comment on there also, and the answer I got back was that they like their guns to look chipped and worn, and don't mind redoing them. I even offered to do one for free. Kinda falls under the categories of "You do you boo".

[@HVACRTECH-83]

@@BransonCerakote lol never heard that category before,I like that one

[@LL-be3rh]

Curious, you said scuffing aluminum anodizing is okay but you also said not to use scotch Brite. How should we prep it ? If sandblasting is not an option at this time.

[@BransonCerakote]

Sandblasting is really the only way. With ano you just don't have to sandblast it off. You can just sand it until it's grey.

[@lnsimas1]

Great video John. Actually Madcustoms post a few months ago a question about thickness. Cerakote recommends 1mil In general. A very few colors have 2mil thickness specification. People are coating multiple layers around 2,5 mils. Actually Mad talks about seeking 1mil with every layers into. I’m coating with general thickness of 0,7 to 0,8 mils successfully. Even Kydex holsters até friendly with coating under 1mil. Nice video as always. Thanks for teach and share your experience with us. Much respect !

[@BransonCerakote]

The reason for the thinner coats after the base is to avoid tolerance, and ridge issues with stenciling. Thick is better than thin. :)

[@littlejackalo5326]

Are you using an instrument to hodge thickness, or are you mic'ing the parts before and after coating? A metal part will change too much with just the heat from your hands to be able to accurately read the difference between 0.001" and 0.0007". 3 tenths is a miniscule amount to measure outside of being a trained metrologist. So I'm sure you're using a paint thickness meter, but is it worth it? I spray until it's coated and I've never had issues. I've even done jobs where I spray EVERY SINGLE part of a handgun (including all internals and action parts), because of corrosion damage, and never had issues.

[@ohanamotorsports7558]

Great video, we are about to start doing our own engine parts. Very helpful!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@thademigod]

Thank you for the videos. Gave me the courage to do this myself.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@pmhoard]

This may be a silly question. But, I have seen Cerakote used in automotive applications. Small parts, wheels, even motorcycle frames. Assuming someone is using the air cure variety. Is there any reason a whole car can't be painted with Cerakote?

[@BransonCerakote]

You could, but at $400 a gallon, it would be expensive.

[@christophergeorge8800]

@@BransonCerakote And if someone key scratches it. EEK!

[@BransonCerakote]

@@christophergeorge8800 Tru Dat.

[@1slammedram]

Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help.

[@JAMESHOPKINSIBXCNC]

Will old catalyst cause discoloration in Cerakote?

[@BransonCerakote]

I haven't heard of it causing discoloration, but it does cause adhesion issues or blisters.

[@mbulloch]

Wait so the blisters are from not shaking it enough? I'm an auto painter. So I assumed I put it in the oven too quick and it was a version of solvent pop

[@BransonCerakote]

Depends on the blisters. Hard, honey colored blisters are a hardener issue. Small round blisters are usually water, and larger puffy blisters are usually contamination.

[@mbulloch]

@@BransonCerakote ah ok. These were rather large. Must've over degreased

[@BransonCerakote]

@@mbulloch Could be. Did you put the parts back in the soak tank after sandblasting?

[@mbulloch]

@@BransonCerakote I did actually. I did some parts a year ago. Recently did a few more. Was relying on memory. Dumb mistake on my part. Watched your video and was like oh shit I did that. Re blasted, blew off, and went straight to cerakote earlier tonight. Came out perfect. Thank you for replying and doing these videos!!

[@BransonCerakote]

@@mbulloch Happens to us all.

[@eddiewood537]

I need help with poly frames. All my frames that I finish come out sandpaper rough once baked, so I'll try to make this short. I clean the frame, degrease, sandblast @ 30 psi, wipe down with Acetone, spray air to dry, mix my colors, strain with proper screen, dial 1:2 ratio on gun, spray within 3" up and down, seem to coat very well, let stand for 15 min, bake @160-180 for 2 hours. it comes out like sandpaper??? I do the same thing with the slide, but 250 for 2 hours and it's always smooth as glass. Please help

[@BransonCerakote]

could be a couple of things. Either you are sanding too much, or spraying too light. When sanding, all you have to do with poly is knock the shine off of it. Once it's dull, you are good to go. As far as dry spray, trash the Cerakote instructions on setting up the gun. The link below shows how we do it, and we don't have spraying issues. Dry spray can also be caused by spraying too fast. You may change the color, but the coating is too thin. I'm not trying to upsell you, but you may benefit from joining Applicator Hangout. Here's the HVLP adjustment video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqSllWyugJZ5mLc

[@eddiewood537]

@@BransonCerakote Thank you for replying, trust me, nothing you guys do is ever an upsell, I'll take whatever advise I can get. I'll play around with air settings today as well as go lighter on my blasting. Thanks for the info.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@eddiewood537 Any time.

[@alexp1tx]

Thank you so much!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@Realmisterwolf]

Thanks for all the helpful videos! Happy 4th brother

[@BransonCerakote]

Same to you!

[@gatorguida4483]

Thanks for the awesome video. I just subscribed. I’m about to do a motorcycle header and heat shields. I’ll probably be giving you a shout out. Thanks again. 👍

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help!

[@sertaoarmas1145]

Vou iniciar no cerakote e seus vídeos tem me ajudado muito. Abraços!

[@BransonCerakote]

Sempre feliz em ajudar!

[@sertaoarmas1145]

@@BransonCerakote Hugs from Brazil! Thanks!!

[@davidsallee8584]

I’ve been a coatings tech for about 3 decades and yes paint to thin not good,paint to thick not good it pays to read the material data sheet

[@BransonCerakote]

Absolutely.

[@RaZX6r6]

What do you do when you get stencil ridges? I have read you can lightly sand before clear coating. What should I use to sand ridges off that won't mangle the coating? It's a 5 color camo pattern with the worst ridges at the base coat stencils. Thanks guys. I should start paying you for all the questions I ask

[@BransonCerakote]

We don't recommend sanding because it could compromise the depth of the base coat. In our shop, we just sand it back down and start from scratch. The best way to keep from getting ridges is to not spray over your stencils until the very end. A common mistake is for people to spray a complete coat with every color. Lay your base, add stencils, and spot spray where the next color will go. Repeat until all the stenciling is done, spray the final solid coat over everything, just heavy enough to cover the colors beneath, and done. (Don't try to cover over the yellow of the stencils. The stencils are out of bounds. When done correctly, the edges of your stencils should be lightly dusted, not completely covered.)

[@RaZX6r6]

@@BransonCerakote thank you once again. This'll be the 3rd try at it. Hopefully 3rd time is the charm.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@RaZX6r6 Been there.

[@Dogasus]

my “PRO” cerakoter artist fail spraying the lettering. what could cause it ? most of the lettering is filled with too much paint inside it

[@BransonCerakote]

Send me a pic, [e-mail].

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi John In another video you mentioned what you mix all your cerakote ratios to, was that the 12 to 1 ratio and did that include the Elite series Thanks Mike E

[@BransonCerakote]

We mix all of our H at 12:1, but Elite only gives you one option, 18:1.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@BransonCerakote Thanks john.👍

[@2ATac]

as always, thanks John for your fantastic info! -Rob, 2A Tactical

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks Rob!

[@codymbink17]

Why would cerakote be tacky after baking for 1 hour? Paint looked great but smudged when touched.

[@BransonCerakote]

Wrong ratio or not hardener. Could be the wrong coating.

[@XxPUNISHER78xX]

A question I have is, Do you tape off the undercarriage of a slide of a pistol? I cerakoted a Ruger SR9C Slide and put a light coat of black on the undercarriage of the slide. My barrel now fits too tight and things dont fit properly. I'd love to see a video talking about what parts to not spray on the body of a pistol. I know the springs and shears and inside of a barrel should not, but for some reason my gun will not fit back together properly. Thanks!

[@BransonCerakote]

I spray everything except what you mentioned. Lots, and lots, and lots of oil.

[@XxPUNISHER78xX]

@@BransonCerakote I'd love to see a breakdown if you are ever digging for video content! Thanks for the response and thanks for the reply

[@BransonCerakote]

@@XxPUNISHER78xX I'll put it on the list.

[@clarkkent4991]

Excellent instruction!!!! My dad is a cancer survivor so we are working on my build together to celebrate. We are getting ready to Cerakote my upper and lower and hand guard for a 300 Blackout. The question that I have is do you normally Cerakote the area of the upper that houses the bolt carrier group? My concern is that it will have paint buildup causing the bolt to not glide smoothly. My other question is after the sandblasting I had a considerable amount of black finish still left on that same area of the upper where the bolt is housed. Same area as previously mentioned. From what I gather from your video I should be ok to Cerakote over top of the black finish? Do you recommend scratching that area to give it more peaks and valleys for it to adhere to or just go for it? I know you said that Cerakote does bond to it. Thanks for taking time to share your knowledge and expertise. Much appreciated. Have a great day and Merry Christmas.

[@BransonCerakote]

Tell your dad that we said that's awesome news! I lost my mom to cancer, and my wife works as a nurse, so when we hear about wins, it's a good day. The black finish you have on there is anodizing, which is the only surface that you can Cerakote over. As long as the anodizing itself is scuffed, you'll be good to go. For the inside, just dial your cone completely shut (top knob on the LPH-80), and set your volume. Spray the inside of the receiver by tapping the trigger. Move the item around so you can get all the angles. It's aluminum, so it doesn't need to be super thick. However, if you get a little thick in some areas, it will wear to where it needs to be quickly. Thanks for watching.

[@clarkkent4991]

@@BransonCerakote Sir you are AWESOME! And thanks for the instructions and most of all for the words of encouragement about my dad. I’m sorry for the loss that your family suffered. I’m sure that you get your kind helpful spirit from your mom. Carry her in your heart and memories. She will ALWAYS be with you sir. I will share this msg with my dad. Thanks again and have a GREAT holiday.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@clarkkent4991 Same to you and your family!

[@turtlepowers7781]

Also what are your recommended Temps and times in the oven? For both in the pre cleaning process and the post spray process

[@BransonCerakote]

Gas out poly at 180 for around 20 minutes, metal at 300 for an hour. Bake poly at 180 for two hours, metal at 250 for two hours.

[@turtlepowers7781]

Right on thank you 👍

[@BransonCerakote]

@@turtlepowers7781 Glad to help.

[@TheJashton]

Huge fan John. If I do my gas out and it's still weeping oil are you saying to just leave it be? Having issues with a stubborn receiver.

[@BransonCerakote]

Nope. If you have weeping, it has to all come out. Best method for getting it all out is to put the metal in the oven for the one hour at 300. After the hour, take it out of the oven, and spray acetone on the area. It will flash evaporate, and remove the oil/grease. It may take more than one time doing this technique, but you just have to have patience. Some pieces are a real pain. Just an FYI, there will probably be a stain once it's completely degreased, but thats ok. It comes off during sanding.

[@jackflash6377]

Can you fix coating build up spots? Runs? I was following your tip about spraying into the small spaces (works great by the way) and my aim wasn't quite good enough and I created a small blob on the lower near the mag release opening. After baking I can hardly see it but.. is there something I can do when I see it before baking?

[@BransonCerakote]

Unfortunately no. You'd have to sand it down and start over.

[@TNTMOTO]

Great video. I have just applied a coating of H-146 Graphite black to aluminum parts for a dirt bike. This is my first time using this series. All parts were sandblasted and gassed out. I mixed the paint and hardener correctly. Sprayed a single coat. Air dried for 10 - 15 minutes. Placed in oven at 250 degrees for 2 hours. Let sit for 24 hours. The surface looks amazing but it still feels wet. There is no paint transfer but i feel like if i handle it my fingers prints would leave an impression. Will this harden up in the next 5 days? do they need to be at room temperature because my shop is on the cool side.

[@BransonCerakote]

No. Once it comes out of the oven, it is what it is. Did you shake the coating together with the hardener? What ratio did you mix it at?

[@TNTMOTO]

@Branson Cerakote 20:1 and yes I shook it up.

[@TNTMOTO]

@Branson Cerakote perhaps I did not use enough hardener. It is difficult to measure a small amount as it is on the thicker side.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@TNTMOTO We ,ix all of our H at 12:1, but after that long in the oven, it should have hardened unless you were way off on the ratio. The only time I've seen it not dry at all was with no hardener.

[@TNTMOTO]

@Branson Cerakote ok thankyou very much for the reply. Perhaps I need to warm the harder to room temp before adding to ensure I get the right amount. It's on the cooler side in my shop. I will let the pieces sit for a few days and see what the result is. If not I will start over with more harder. Thankyou very much for all the information and getting back to me so quickly.

[@johanndupreez7736]

Hi, you are constantly talking about the training, do I understand you correctly that you do provide training, certified and accepted by Cerakote?

[@BransonCerakote]

We do have a training program, but we are not affiliated with the Cerakote factory program. Our program covers the same things, but also goes into many areas the factory doesn't. Our program is geared more towards how a shop operates on a daily basis vs just centering on the coating, and spray techniques (which is one of the reasons why we have three days instead of two). The main reason we tell people who come to our training that they eventually want to go out to the factory is more from a financial standpoint (discounts you'll receive from NIC being factory certified).

[@johanndupreez7736]

@@BransonCerakote the fact that you responded this quickly, is very comforting. I'll forward you a mail to get more info. Thank you very much.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@johanndupreez7736 Any time.

[@blacktalonarmory5]

Quick question sir.... whether using 12:1 or 18:1 mixing ratio does more hardener necessarily mean stronger finish, glossier finish or both.

[@BransonCerakote]

It changes the finish, however the 18:1 isn't as durable.

[@zramirez5471]

Hey I love your videos and they are really helpful! I'm about to try using Gun Candy for the first time, how much cure/time do you give the base coat before adding a layer like that?

[@BransonCerakote]

Cure the base coat all the way if you are using MC156, which is what we recommend.

[@marquezvanroeschen5340]

Wow! what a great clip! Big ups to you Branson :) Question from my side (a newbie :)) I'm starting my very first Cerakote project and want to coat aluminum parts. Which sanding media and PSI would you recommend. Thx & greetings from Austria

[@BransonCerakote]

100 Grit Red Garnet is what we recommend. For metal, you want to be at around 80psi.

[@marquezvanroeschen5340]

​@@BransonCerakote Thanks a mil! :) I found red garnet sand in my area with 80 or 120 Mesh. Which one would you choose then? Sorry to bother you with these questions, but really what to make sure to follow the manual ;)

[@BransonCerakote]

@@marquezvanroeschen5340 It needs to be 100, but if those are your only choices, 120 may be the best. I don't think it's going to be aggressive enough, but 80 will crater your project.

[@marquezvanroeschen5340]

@@BransonCerakote Ok great! Thanks!

[@bigjimmy6690]

Great video and thank's for putting this info out there. It's great to see a professional willing to share advice with do it your selfers. I have done a couple of scopes (IOR Valdada & Trijicon TR 24) an AR-10, a couple barrels, and some mags. I have done all mine with the C series and have gotten away with using Scotch Brite pads because I don't have a compressor big enough to run a blast cabinet. Some of my stuff has been coated for several years with no problems at all and it still looks great. I'm about to do another scope in FDE C series and I'm really hoping it comes out as good as my previous projects. If you happen to see this comment am I just getting lucky using the sanding pads or have you seen them used successfully with C series by others?

[@BransonCerakote]

I think you're getting lucky, to be honest. The sand blasting does more than just rough up the surface. It creates a specific etch pattern that the Cerakote is chemically designed to bond to. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do, but sandblasting is one of those steps where you really want to try to stay in your lane. :)

[@bigjimmy6690]

@@BransonCerakote Even though I've had good results so far I'm not sure I want to keep pushing my luck. The scope I'm doing was $700 so while not as expensive as many it ain't cheap either. Might quit while I'm ahead and have to have this one done professionally. Thanks for the help and keep those videos coming.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@bigjimmy6690 Scopes are a little nerve wracking until you've done a few.

[@bigjimmy6690]

@@BransonCerakote Yeah, the pucker factor was pretty high when I started sanding on that $2,000 Valdada. It took a while but it turned out beautifully. Then about 2 or 3 months later the parallax broke internally and when I sent it in under warranty they said they couldn't repair it and sent me a new one without the Cerakote. It's still black.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@bigjimmy6690 That sucks.

[@Waldijohnson]

So if I’m doing two coats and I’ve gotten everything prepped, what you’re saying is, I should air dry for 8 or so minutes after I spray the base coat, stick it in the oven for 10-15 mins (depending on oven) then add your next coat?

[@BransonCerakote]

Spray, air cure (to allow the solvent to evaporate), then bake in a 180 degree oven until tack free (around 8-10 minutes. It's a feel not an exact time). Remove, allow to cool. Spray the next color, repeat.

[@bgriff2517]

Do you media blast polymer grips like magpul? I’m guessing yes but just making sure. I’m planning on doing it? Also how well would you say cerakote game polymer holds up? Never sprayed polymer but my new build I’m planning on the grip. Thanks.

[@BransonCerakote]

Polymer is fine. You don't want to sand at high pressure, just around 30 psi or so. All you're looking to do is dull it. Bake it at 180 max. Don't do anything that is or has rubber.

[@joristz]

hi John, I am starting with Cerakote now. ( Live in Belgium). Can you put your items sprayed with C series Cerakote in the oven? If yes, at what temperature and for how long? You might ask me why: just to speed up the drying process and otherwise, I have no heater in my booth. Tx in advance Joris

[@BransonCerakote]

C series has a resin and hardener in it that needs to air dry. Putting it in the oven will make it brittle.

[@joristz]

@@BransonCerakote thanks John. Great video's. Cheers and greetings from Belgium

[@BransonCerakote]

@@joristz Thanks for watching!

[@larrys7910]

Question creakote recommends a lvlp .8 spray gun and here you say a hplv gun. Also are you still staying with the .8 needle. Thanks for the videos

[@BransonCerakote]

Yep. The Iwata is an HVLP and has the .08.

[@jonathanseifert59]

Just earned a sub.. You're awesome

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you brother!

[@davidofqwerty]

I've been doing h series cerakote for a while, but I recently done a coating and within 5 minutes of being in the oven lots of little blisters started forming, could it be possible I didnt wait long enough before baking it. Thanks alot.

[@BransonCerakote]

Blisters are more than likely from not mixing your hardener in enough. The hardener settles in tiny globs that then become blisters.

[@ericnisbet8130]

on multi colors do you remove the stencils for the final cure or are they able to handle the high temperature?

[@BransonCerakote]

They handle it fine, but I usually bake the item about 15 minutes then pull them off. They are easier to get off, and it let's you make sure your project is good to go.

[@natepierce1281]

I have a batch of -8 an fittings i would like to shoot in Glacier titanium air cure, i did a test on one but prepped it with red scotch brite pad. At the end of the video you mention this is a bad idea. What is the right course of action as sand blasting these swivel fuel fittings seams like a bad idea. They are anodized black the best i can tell.

[@BransonCerakote]

You really don't have another option. The sand blasting doesn't just remove the existing coating, but also etches a specific surface pattern into the item that allows the coating to properly adhere. I've sand blasted thousands of items without any issues. Also, remember that all you need to do with anodized products is scuff them. The only difference is that you are scuffing the anodizing, not the actual item.

[@natepierce1281]

@@BransonCerakote Thank you for the reply. Great info and videos. Keep it up.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@natepierce1281 Absolutely.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi John. HIGH GLOSS CERAMIC CLEAR Item: MC-156 Is that made to be sprayed over cured cerakote Thank you

[@BransonCerakote]

It's not made to, but that's what we use it for. I've never had an adhesion issue using it.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@BransonCerakote awesome ! thanks John

[@BransonCerakote]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Glad to help.

[@DavidBrown-cv7qb]

Hello John, you were talking about degreasing, you mentioned not putting a part back in the acetone. What if when you bring the part out of the Oven and it brings some oil to the surface, cerakote says to repeat all the steps over again? And I notice you degrease before you blast? Just wondering what is the difference in doing before you blast and after. Thank you for your videos and advice!! DAVID/DB CERAKOTING

[@BransonCerakote]

It's not that often that degreasing doesn't take care of any issues the first time around, however 700 barreled actions are notorious for weeping. Put them in the oven, heat them at 300 for an hour, and move them to a rack away from a heat source. Use a squirt bottle of acetone, and soak the weeping area. Put the item back into the oven for 10-15 more minutes, and check it again. Repeat as necessary. It usually doesn't take too many times to take care of the issue. We soak, gas out, then sandblast. It's just always made more sense to me, and I've never had an adhesion issue from doing it that way. Not saying their way is wrong, but I've just never had an issue with mine.

[@DavidBrown-cv7qb]

Branson Cerakote thank you!! I always appreciate any advice that could help me do better work for people!!

[@BransonCerakote]

@@DavidBrown-cv7qb Glad to help!

[@bloodygulchmusic9462]

I appreciate the time to take to help people out with this stuff. Very good info and very generous of you to share! Please let me know if you'd ever like some music for your videos. I'd love a chance to return the favor.

[@BransonCerakote]

Heck yeah! I have crap music, lol.

[@bloodygulchmusic9462]

@@BransonCerakote just say the word!

[@BransonCerakote]

@@bloodygulchmusic9462 The word! lol

[@bloodygulchmusic9462]

@@BransonCerakote I can send mp3s to your email or we have our second album posted on our YT channel. L:et me know what's easier for you

[@BransonCerakote]

@@bloodygulchmusic9462 I'd appreciate the email. I really appreciate it. Make sure you include any info you'd like me to footnote when it's being used.

[@turtlepowers7781]

What do you recommend to use in first adding abrasion to the surfaces on plastic/polymer, black anodized parts and raw aluminum??

[@BransonCerakote]

Sandblasting with 100g Red Garnet. Polymer at around 30 psi, metal at around 75 psi.

[@turtlepowers7781]

@@BransonCerakote thank you appreciate that 🙏

[@BransonCerakote]

@@turtlepowers7781 No worries.

[@coltinhanson5084]

So I’m in the middle of doing 1000 exhaust flanges fresh from a machine shop and have been sandblasting until there is completely no shine. Is it safe to sandblast less as in etching the service completely but still having a dull shine to it? (Using glacier black c series if that changes anything. )

[@BransonCerakote]

Yep. Cerakote is a little too subjective on this one, "If it's still shiny, you haven't sanded enough". Just go over it really good, and it will be fine.

[@coltinhanson5084]

Right on! Thanks for the reply!

[@zengate209]

I am having a heck of a time coating my Taurus 605. I did an antique wear type finish using Graphite black on top of burnt bronze. It came out looking amazing! But the cylinder got stuck or super stiff and other parts as well. Even when I tried doing a thin layer. Is the 605 just that intolerant in its spacings?

[@BransonCerakote]

Generally with revolvers, we will do the yoke in Microslick, bake it, then tape that area off so we can spray the rest of the gun.

[@littlejackalo5326]

@@BransonCerakote cerakote says micro slick has the same coefficient of friction as regular H and elite series. The only time they recommend using micro slick is if you need the higher heat resistance. What is your take on that? I get that the micro slick coating thickness is only ⅓-½ as thick as H/elite (which is why you recommended it to the op), but I was wondering about how lubricidus they are in comparison. Thanks.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@littlejackalo5326 It is a teflon coating. I'm no chemist, but I can tell you that in our experience, it handles repeated wear better, in areas like pistol barrels and revolver yokes.

[@speedfreak1000z28]

What's your air pressure at the gun when the trigger is being pulled to spray a part? Also why for cerakote does it get degreased, gassed then sandblasted? In my head I keep thinking sandblasting then soaking in acetone then degreasing would work. Sorry for the noob questions, I've Duracoated and hydrodipped for years but I have a bottle of sniper grey cerakote sitting in the gun room that I've been to scared to do.

[@BransonCerakote]

Working air pressure for H series, V series, and C series is 20 psi. For clear and Elite, it's 30 psi. Cerakote's official way of doing it is to degrease, sand, then gas. I've changed that a bit. I degrease, gas, then sand. I've been doing it this way for years, and have never had an issue. I wouldn't recommend soaking after sandblast. The problem is, sanding opens the metal up, and if there is any silt left in your acetone, it MAY find it's way into the metal.

[@lnsimas1]

Branson Cerakote totally agree with you. I reduced more of It just spending time degreasing as much I can. This is the most important in general to get a good finish. After I put more effort on phase 01 the number of oil residue left on parts decreased drastically! Again: nice video John!

[@BransonCerakote]

@@lnsimas1 Thanks for watching!

[@speedfreak1000z28]

@@BransonCerakote thanks, working up the nerve to go out to the garage and go for it.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@speedfreak1000z28 Worst that can happen is you sand it down and start again.

[@bernhardlist9359]

Thanks a lot, another thumbs up from me. Bernhard

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you!

[@bernhardlist9359]

This helps me a lot because I am known as „I make every possible mistake before things start to work right“.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@bernhardlist9359 Anyone who doesn't screw up on occasion, isn't spraying very often, lol.

[@Waldijohnson]

This might be some of the greatest advice I’ve seen on the subject

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks!

[@loganellsworth3572]

Thanks man! Cerakoting is helping me pay for college and you’re a real help

[@BransonCerakote]

Awesome!

[@nijyaryasin5811]

You the man !

[@nolimitcustomcreations9385]

Number one is kinda funny. Don't listen to the internet, while i'm watching a video on the internet :D

[@BransonCerakote]

Think of me as your friendly evangelist. Don't listen to anyone........ except me. lol

very goood vid!!!

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks!

[@OneFishToFish]

Looks like my pistol will be flaking off eventually. Wish I would have watched this 2 days ago. Oh well, now I know. Thanks for all of your videos. They’ve helped me a lot.

[@BransonCerakote]

Been there.

[@littlejackalo5326]

The great thing is that you can start over. Just count it as your practice job. If you're doing more than a few guns, wait for the harbor freight blast cabinet to go on sale for $150. The amount of blasting media you save will be worth it, along with the cerakote savings from having poor question and having to redo it. Get a 24" less under cabinet light and stick done neodymium magnets on it and mount it inside the cabinet. When you're done with all your items, and if you don't have space to keep it, you can put it out on the curb and only be out around $100. Or put it on let it go for $50 and only be out $50. Even $100 to aid in the coating of say 5 guns, 20 mags, a few optics, a few knives and flashlights will be worth it.

[@tru_remedyz]

Acetone is a no go though.

[@BransonCerakote]

No go for what?

[@tru_remedyz]

@@BransonCerakote Ive heard that its dangerous to use with these cheaper units is all, i believe its used in controlled industrial apps though

[@BransonCerakote]

@@tru_remedyz Oh, ok. I switched to simple green. Good advice!

[@chrisshumake83]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@lewisgarland4025]

better to pay someone Proffesional if your item is valuable its worth paying for success .. Pay Once Be Happy !

[@BransonCerakote]

We help DIY'ers all the time, but there is a difference between a project that is professionally done, and someone who is still figuring it out.

[@lewisgarland4025]

@@BransonCerakote well thank you sir for sharing your knowledge its a great help for those who think they want to try and i might on one of my lesser cost rifles one day but my primary weapons i want to have it as good as it can be .

[@BransonCerakote]

@@lewisgarland4025 I get that completely. We are gun people first, and a business second. We just like to see cool projects and help folks turn out neat stuff. Anything we can do to help, let us know.

[@scottkeith7005]

Hmm... Top 10 Applicator Mistakes and #1 is don't trust the internet. But you're on the internet... ;)

[@BransonCerakote]

I'm not on the internet. This here's the interweb. ;)~~~