Top 7 Things that could be SECRETLY Hurting your Diesel Engine.

[@realvanman1]

Agree on all of it, and will add that engines make heat as a byproduct of doing work. So, once your cold engine has had oil pressure for long enough to be circulated throughout, put it (gently!) to work! And continue working it gently until it's closer to normal operating temperature.

[@terryfrederickson2774]

um,,the heat is from burning fuel ,,it is after all a heat engine and work is the by product of heat ,

[@jamesbruno5896]

Happy New Year!

[@willbill251]

I worked for Caterpillar for 30years in TECC in Mossville, and worked with John Goldsmith In Alabama for a number of years. Enjoy you show and know he knows more about these older engines than anyone, goodluck

[@jameskratzer2014]

For cold starts during below freezing temperatures, once I have the engine running, and oil pressure is achieved, I then bump the idle to no more than 800 rpm, then I monitor the oil temperature. Once the oil temperature is past 120, I’ll start driving it, but using minimal power and gradually increase the power as the temperature rises to operating temp.

[@williamwade7059]

I'm NOT a mechanic but I did buy my first Cat in 1984. When I change my fuel filters I change my primary run the truck, then change the secondary to avoid getting too much air in the system. If they're both changed at the same time that's when I've had issues getteing her started. Happy New Year.

[@TheBlueangels9]

Brother if your check valve right by your primary filter housing is bad that what happens but if it’s working right you shouldn’t have problems changing them both at the same time

[@jeriwollmann7366]

I thank everyone who said thank you for the DOTW. I am leaving You are welcome man under the comment. My replies are disappearing. I dont know why. My apologies. Hopefully they will show up. Cheers guys. Thank you Josh for all your hard work and teaching. Best wishes.

[@AdeptApe]

Hi Jeri, all comments and replies have to go through my approval, so they were just waiting for me. They should all be posted on there now.

[@jeriwollmann7366]

@AdeptApe Ooohhh OK man. I didn't know. Some will have multiple replies cuz I was trying to post. Thank you Josh

[@johngoldsmith6629]

Yes Sir, prefilling filters, makes me a lot of money. I have had a couple piston failures, oil filter was prefilled. The foil was apparently pushed into the oil jug. Poured directly into the unfiltered port. Eventually made it to a spray jet and plugged it up, early 92U engine. Second, MBN, oil filter must have been dropped in oil dry. As I dug parts of oil dry out of two spray jets, again seized pistons. Improper maintenance, is the fast way to the repair shop. Also putting new dirty parts on. Had a REGEN engine that I replaced the fuel enable valve. Before I installed it, I took starting fluid and washed it off, onto a lint free rag. You could see the metal fragments that washed off the threads. As my first cousin told me once, John you can never be to clean building an engine. Have a safe and a Happy New Year to the Josh Family.

[@AdeptApe]

Thank you John and have a great year. Hope you are feeling better.

[@misters2837]

Well Prefilling in itself is not the problem...being an idiot is going to ruin anything...But prefilling is better than starting an engine with ZERO oil pressure for 10-30 seconds. I have rebuilt thousands of engines...and prefilled tens of thousands of filters....I have NEVER had a Pre-Fill-Failure... But then again, I'm not an idiot... If one is not going to pre-fill oil filters...spinning the engine over with the starter to prime the oil system before starting it, is a better way... On the OLD Mack we had My Father would prefill, AND spin engine over with the "Engine Stop Cable" pushed in...To build pressure...Therefore the engine never fired without oil pressure...He also warmed it at 1000-1100 RPM for 15-45 minutes daily...That engine/truck went more miles than ALL of its "sister" trucks...

[@Wolfiecolada]

1. Gasoline 2. LotLizards 3. Nitrogen in tires 4. Blinker Fluid PH 5. Regret 6. Low Oxygen 7. Low $$$ WolfieColada!

[@24allix]

Believe me man, we have a fleet of shredding, roll off, front load, & rear load garbage trucks (mostly px7/9 or x15) & the idle dpf clogging is real. You can actually tell when trucks run on city vs suburban routes so we try to rotate the fleet throughout the week to spread out the highway miles vs downtown alley hopping.

[@24allix]

You could also be like us & 'forget' to PM a 938m loader than feeds a recycling MRU for 5000 hours straight if you want a fun time. Literally no greasing, oil, or filters - for 5000 hours Shop manager claims unit 'wasn't in the PM tracking system' that site plant mechanic said 'hey I never got assigned to PM it'....

[@clydeacor1911]

​@@24allixThat kinda falls on the person operating it too because he should be greasing it at least once a day too. And when the operator does their daily inspections the hours should be written on the filters and when they're checking things over should notice things like that.

[@TheCloser1]

Automotive industry has a major problem with extended service intervals now. Falls along with rule #3- way too many problems could be hidden during that 10k mile oil change span. Especially with these DI engines that love fuel dilution….

[@dereksmith1803]

On my 2018 Pete 567 with the Cummins X15, when I change my fuel filters, I install both new ones empty. I then just cycle the key several times which runs the electric lift pump that pumps fuel from the tank. It will fill both fuel filters (the sound changes and you can tell when they're full). I then start the truck and it runs normally. Easy.

[@holmestim63]

R u bleeding air from fittings as lift pump primes?

[@stevecrane1125]

We check fluids every morning before the trucks are started.Good advice.

[@gregorybarth930]

Here in central Texas it normally don't get that cold, but I still put a high idle switch in my 06 6.0 I don't idle any more than I have to. Fluids are pretty easy to check on my 6.0 and my 7.3 IDI I retired from trucking but still love my diesels

[@BWGPEI]

For all the good stuff in the last year, Thank You! For the next year, best wishes for a healthy and happy year.

[@nickd.4512]

Happy New Year! Great video like usual. The whole idling deal, i follow what my cat dealer guys told me, if its below 20 degrees, start and idle for about 3 to 5 mins, then bring it up to 1000 to 1200 rpm

[@edwardcarberry1095]

Happy New year , as well to everyone else!! When I designed my fuel filter/system for my truck, I put pre and post filters valves. So that I can isolate the filters. Change the filters W/S ,, fuel filter. So close the valves pre and post, change the filters, as the fuel was clean so dumped it back into the fuel tank. lubed the filter O-rings and installed them. Opened the Pre valve/as well the fuel return valve to the fuel tank, then bumped the electrical pump in tank .Circulated the fuel back to the tank then let it sit for about 5 mins to let any air trapped in to rise to the return tank valve. Then run the pump again for a few mins to remove any air. Closed the return tank valve opened the valve to the engine. It fired right up. Yes I have left a few other things out but that is the just of my design. I wasted?? about a tea spoon of diesel. SO I FIGURED IT WAS A success!!! The Cat 0749 filter is rusting badly. so it is not going to last that distance of that filter change. Guess I will stick with the Donaldson 1000 and the 1313 or is it the other way around???

[@TheBlueangels9]

Hi Josh on the subject of warming up on cold start I have to say even though mostly same rules apply to most diesel engines how ever there are some differences in technicalities even between same manufacture engine models for instance c7 and c15 are different in cold start up settings for example c7 as soon as starts rpm jumps up for while and that’s because displacement is not quite enough to make a proper heat on compression stroke when cylinder walls and pistons are cold , on the opposite side c15 ideals on 500 rpm right after cold start and it depends on how cold ambient temperature is it might take up to couple of minutes to jump up to normal ideal speed which normally is 6.75 to 700 rpm and per caterpillars themselves you don’t have to warm your engine up as long as you have proper oil pressure and they recommend that you should drive in low RPMs if you have to move right away however, with all due respect to everybody’s opinion, I owned, drove and worked on my own since 1984 and I can tell you there are many reasons that I personally warm up my big cats at least to 130° before I roll and one of them reasons are oil pressure is too high most of my trucks are at 80 psi Even at 40° ambient at a start up and I don’t like to cause oil leaks the second most important reason is cylinder liners and Pistons are obviously made out of different materials and for sure they don’t warm up at the same rate neither do they expand at the same rate so you see what I’m getting at. and that’s why cat setting it self starts up at low rpm then jumps up And lastly, about Westgate of Turbo, I have to disagree with some of your input. I think they are totally horseshit, and everybody who has single turbo cat should either change it to non waste gated turbo or pinch that stupid hose, for it causes more disadvantage, than advantage if any,like it derates Turbo boost, raises, EGT greatly,causes bad fuel mileage, and I can keep on going, after all it sets to open after 25 psi (really 🤨😒)and I think the only advantage it would have to lower the back pressure of the exhaust manifold, which that has never been a problem with GarrettTurbo or OE cat equipped turbo which is 1.42 AR at its hot side which That means,is big enough even without wast gate To flow all the exhaust gas through out the turbine housing without creating back pressure so in reality, there are no advantages to have that damn waste gate it’s almost like having a very bad leak from air to air 😅however you should definitely have a pyrometer gauge to monitor your EGT and not to let your boost go up excessively which is over 38 pounds except accert twin turbo

[@nickayivor8432]

Happy New Year, Adept Ape 👍 SHREWD Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 22:27pm Good Evening

[@AdeptApe]

Happy New Year's to you also Nick!

[@walterstopka616]

Happy New Year Josh!!!

[@jcurtis4082]

Nice, I find nothing to disagree with here. All good. 60 years in the industry and I have stopped asking the operators of idling engines if there is something wrong with their starting/charging systems. My sarcasm proved ineffective. /: I get that sometimes you have to leave them running. We did it all of the time in the Arctic. But the practice did make for more mechanic work and I was able to feed my family sufficiently for many years. And made me a lifelong proponent of oil/coolant/battery heaters or heated spaces. Ultimately idling costs add up to more than just the cost of the fuel. Since the introduction of electronically controlled engines one of my first stops when reviewing engine data is idle time and/or idle percentage (some differences in terminology between manufacturers). It's a well proven killer. Happy new years, keep up the great work.

[@michaelbailey7483]

Every morning I start my truck as soon as it builds oil pressure I crank the R.P.M to about 1000 . And yes I check the oil and coolant. Good video josh keep up the good work

[@Mtbslacker]

There was a Cat training video back in the day that showed how oil fills gaps between moving parts at low idle vs elevated. It was showing how increasing the RPM pulls oil into these spaces creating a thicker cushion so to speak. Does your training dept still show those old videos on liner cavitation and whatnot?

[@chrisbarnes2823]

This why I keep my GMC 2500hd in my garage and plug it in before I go anywhere in the winter months. A lot of school bus engines get nuked because some drivers cannot be bothered to lift the hood each morning to check fluids or even check the ground under the engine.

[@darrencatenacci2737]

Great advice. On my ISX-15 they tell you to install the fuel filters dry and switch the ignition on and off about 5 times then lift pump fills the filters. It still starts rough but once started and run for a few then shut it off and check for leaks. Then it starts fine. Happy New Year

[@matthewzoelle9149]

Happy New Year!!

[@ericb8030]

Who's "they"? If you're using Cummins recommended fleet gaurd fuel filters, they come with a plug in the center for a reason. Pre fill through the outer holes.

[@bertgrau3934]

On a Detroit, 60 series, I would install the fuel filters dry, then put around 12 pounds of air pressure in the fuel tank and mine had a bleed screw open it just a bit and wait for the fuel to come out. Tighten the screw. Start engine, it would usually start right off and run at about 1000 RPM and it would be just fine. Detroit even recommends to NOT use the electric fuel pump to prime the fuel system.

[@youtubeisawesome2487]

before the plug it was recommended by cummins to install dry and use primer pump to fill, and its much easier than spilling fuel everywhere especially if your using the extended life engine filter, just bleed it at the compucheck port, easy peasy. @@ericb8030

[@ianloy1854]

@@ericb8030 Yes they do - but NOT because the engine manufacturer wants the filters pre-filled. Rather because if they are going to be pre-filled then it is better to fill them on the dirty side.

[@jeriwollmann7366]

Happy New Year Josh. Best Wishes. Thank you for the dedicated DOTW. Your humor is spot on. Made me laugh. Perfect ones to start the year. Looking forward to sending more this coming year. I learned more from you how diesel engine work with temperature. The components affected. Cheers Josh. Thank you for the channel. Lots of new knowledge all the time. 👍💪👊🎉

[@gregorycross612]

Thanks for taknng us to the moon, Jerry! 👽 👋🤠

[@jeriwollmann7366]

Thank you man. So happy you enjoyed the ride. 😂😂 You are welcome man. 💪👊

[@mbergheaud]

Does this also apply to common rail/direct injected diesel engines?

[@got2kittys]

I live a few miles from the highway, on dirt roads. Starting, getting the oil pressure up, and putting along in first or second gear for a couple miles doesn't stress your engine and is a good warm up.

[@CTX50]

Thank you Jerry and Josh

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man 💪👊

[@thegoldensteed]

Happy New Year, Josh! And thanks to Jerry for the pictures, destruction of the week is always interesting.

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man. 👊💪

[@chadwayne165]

We run 185f thermostats in are heavy haul trucks that have c-15s in them. Engines are great, still wish we had our 3406c engines, they were the best we ever had.

[@justinmartin8887]

Agree on extended cool idles doing damage mostly from excess carbon deposits BUT; swift temperature changes and high reciprocation speeds will cause different metals to expand and different rates, causing cylinder wall chaffing, loosening of fasteners, and cracking of hard metals such as exhaust manifolds

[@roadtoad7704]

I'm with you on this point. N14 here. Cold or warm weather, I'll start, low idle for 1 minute then high idle ~1000. When oil temp rises to minimum 120* then I feel it's ready. In freezing weather it does take up to 10 minutes but I'm not shock heating the different metals involved

[@cbmech2563]

On my 97 7.3 powerstroke I did efuel with 2 spin on filters back on the frame rail, the rear tank is sumped and the fuel level is above the filter heads when at least half full. Pull both filters, put the primary on, turn the fuel back on and wait for the fuel to come out of the secondary head, put it on and then turn the fuel pump on and let it fill(regulated return system). As another note I've seen Cat heavy equipment with a "primer" switch on the frame near the fuel filters. That should be standard on all engines.

[@timlarcombe6831]

Happy new Year, I start my old 1HZ 80 series Landcruiser every night to pump the oil up when I get to full oil pressure I shut it down. Next day start and full oil pressure straight away, Take care enjoy and I will send some you great destruction pictures, we are the ER of components, rather large ones

[@will104107]

Thanks Jerry, those are great DOTW.

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man 👍🎉

[@arthurburke1044]

Thanks Jerry,from Massachusetts

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man. 👊💪🎉

[@americantrucker9813]

Happy new year and thank you ! I have had to fight with a few places over dumping dirty diesel into the clean side of my Cummins fuel filter and I always get the same response. We’ve always done this way so now I have to do everything on my truck because nobody takes any pride in their work so I appreciate the fact that you care about your work and your attention to detail.

[@festus51]

I hear you

[@PeterDittmer]

Where are you buying dirty fuel at?

[@bradjenkins932]

@@PeterDittmer Exactly.

[@233kosta]

It also doesn't warm up evenly if you're letting it idle for half an hour. Just drive gently for 10-15 minutes.

[@peterbenson3776]

Fast idle warmup was always our habit with farm tractors.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

Because diesels do not generate much heat, unlike spark-ignition engines. They take a long, long time to warm up at idle, so we run at a fast idle to generate more heat.

[@roland2683]

Thanks Jerry... Great information, as always!

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man.👊💪

[@jakem.6359]

I always idle my 6NZ up....and if I'm sitting....I turn it off. Great video as always Josh 👍

[@TheBigdog868]

You're so right about the importance of running the right thermostat. I even saw an engine overheat with no thermostat installed. Turns out the coolant was running through the system so fast it wasn't in the radiator long enough to cool down. When it gets hot outside it takes longer for that coolant to cool off. The start-stop flow from those thermostats opening and closing gives it the time to do that. Happy new year!🎉😅

[@paulmaxwell8851]

I must disagree. The Btus/minute being dissipated by the radiator are proportional to fluid (coolant) velocity. Moving the fluid faster will raise the average temperature of the radiator, and the differential between radiator and cooling air will increase. This results in more Btus/minute being transferred from fluid to air. If you saw an engine overheating, it wasn't because of a missing thermostat. The thermostat has just one job: prevent the coolant from entering the radiator until the engine is close to operating temperature. I see this misunderstanding often with hydronic floor heating systems. Many people think running hot water through a zone loop more slowly allows more heat to enter the room. This is wrong. A higher velocity raises the average temperature of the loop and increases output. It's somewhat counter-intuitive.

[@mjbjw77]

Have a blessed new year and wishing you and yours the best.

[@ianloy1854]

Awesome quick summary of things not to do. Here are (a lot) more details for those that may want to know more. . To prevent condensation in the rocker covers, and to remove any other moisture etc, the engine needs to be above ~ 85C/185F. The longer your engine is colder than this, the more time it spends with the moisture etc in the oil. The thermostat has NO effect on maximum cooling if they are fully open before coolant reaches its maximum temperature (99C/210F for pre 2000MY Cat C-12/C-15 engines, 103/217 (I think) for 2000MY and later) the thermostat has NO effect on maximum cooling. They should be fully open before the fan on temperature is reached, don’t forget the fan also runs due to intake temperature and air conditioning pressure). If you don’t install a thermostat in C-12/C13/3406-C15 etc and similar engines, a lot of coolant will bypass the radiator via the bypass line. So, this will REDUCE the cooling performance. If you don’t want a working thermostat then block it open but keep it/them installed, and make sure you are working it hard enough to keep the coolant above 85C/185F. . A diesel engine uses very small amounts of fuel when idling and the amount of fuel between low idle ~600 rpm) and hi idle (~2000 rpm) is extremely small. This is because the only increase in power demand is the drag from the rotating parts of the engine (water/oil pump etc). So, changing the speed does little to help with warming - but as was said it does help settle the rings a bit more. If you have white smoke (unburnt fuel) the quickest way of clearing it up is to get power demand onto the engine (move the truck). Cat has said for decades the best way to warm up your engine is to do you engine checks (that were discussed in video oil coolant etc) then start the engine and do your walk around inspection. The engine will then be ready to start working. So, start using it start your journey quietly (not full revs or full power). The engine will heat up much more quickly because now it is making way more power = heat. This may not always apply, like if you are at a truck stop on an interstate in cold temps and having a break, but it is the ideal to aim for. This can be a reason to make sure you have the sound suppression on your sump. It can help keep the heat in the oil a little more. To be clear what actually matters most is the oil temp. If the air temps are in the range of the oil (e.g. 5W-40 typically -30 to 50C/-22 to 122F) then the oil will provide the needed lubrication. The engine parts still need to warm up and that takes a while for the whole engine to be at operating temperature. . Truck electrics are WAY better than they were in even the 80/90’s. Don't leave the engine running because it is "better to idle than to stop & restart it," this is NOT the case. Save fuel and engine wear, turn the engine off you are going to be stopped for more than a few minutes, . Truck OEMs want to keep the cost of the truck low and so save on things like filters priming pumps etc.. Freightliner specified 3126 engines with NO primary fuel filters, to reduce costs. Others used cheap primary filters. If it doesn’t come on the engine to the OEM it isn’t necessarily part of the engine manufacturers supply. If you look at a modern Cat machine many have electric priming pumps, high quality fuel water separator primary filter, a secondary filter and an upside-down tertiary fuel filter. The BIG Cat truck powered by the C175 (Common rail) also have a second set of secondary and tertiary quality filters attached to a separate pumps that pumps fuel from the tank and back again. All of this is done to extend the life of the fuel system/injectors. A well-equipped truck will have a priming pump, water separating primary fuel filter and a secondary fuel filter. The priming pump is good if you are caught with a blocked filter out on the road. Even if you can’t get a full prime it is WAY better than a dry filter or a filter filled on the clean side. Maintenance includes draining the primary filter AND keeping the fuel going into the tanks as clean as possible. If you are in a dusty environment, also think about putting filters on your fuel tank vents. Every gallon of fuel burnt is a gallon of that air going into your tanks, and the only way out for it is into you filters (hopefully) or through your injectors. A filter almost always blocks because of something else being wrong. If your filters become blocked too quickly do NOT change to another same size filter that doesn’t block. If you do that will just mean that all that stuff that blocked the previous filters is now getting into you fuel system. Find the actual problem and fix IT. If you use biodiesel you have to be VERY careful of water in the system - otherwise you can get algae growing in your fuel tanks, or coming through the fill nozzle into your tanks.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

Interesting points. But one question: why do you think that a missing coolant thermostat will cause coolant to take the bypass and miss the radiator, thereby reducing the cooling? A missing thermostat is fundamentally an open thermostat, and an open stat directs the coolant to the rad. At all times, a small amount of coolant will take the bypass, but the lower resistance of the rad hose will cause most coolant to take that route. By the way, running without a coolant thermostat is just plain stupid and there is absolutely no reason for it.

[@JasonSmith-vd1sz]

Excellent video thank you for your thoughts.

[@williamknight267]

Hey thanks for the video I let my Duramax warm up when it's cold out

[@kylejacobs1682]

Thanks Jerry

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man 👍🎉

[@davidpotter7484]

people used to be taught how and why, piston wash, to warm up any engine, on diesels, start, wait for oil pressure to come up, and idle to smooth out. Them set idle at 1000. In the old days without cruise control, there was a throttle lock. Any driver that woke up in the middle on the night freezing his a$$ off, immediately understood why you idle at 1000. All old carburetor vehicles had a high idle for warmup, the idle increases to a set rpm as the choke coil warms up. Pretty important in the winter.

[@Good-luck-Jonathan]

Good video. Fuel desolution is the worst and most abrasive. Lake speed junior put up a video on how important auto stop is if you have it on your truck and using it because they did laboratory test on the oils and saw much less wear metals when they were using auto stop versus the oil that was not.

[@robertjohnson6719]

You are correct warm up is programmed into my Duramax. Especially true about fuel and oil filter.

[@ridgwalkerg]

Thanks Jerry for the pics. And, Happy New Year

[@jeriwollmann7366]

You are welcome man. Happy new year 👍🎉💪

[@igoldra_9162]

@AdeptApe Happy New Year and very impressive piston meltdown wow

[@brianholland2916]

Ive got a 84 chamion 710a grader so i needed this. Thanks josh. So far so good

[@normcameron2316]

Good topics, I would add the following: What Cat calls a "coolant" or "temperature" regulator is not an ordinary thermostat. Cat engines have an internal coolant bypass system which when the regulator is closed, allows coolant to only flow round and round in the block until it gets warm then the regulator shuts off that passage and opens the passage to the rad. Helps in warming up faster. But, people mistake the regulator for a common auto thermostat, which simply blocks flow and they think if there is an overheating problem removing the regulator might fix it, not realizing removing the regulator merely allows the coolant to avoid going to the rad, just going around and around in the block. Contributing to an overheating problem, which then get diagnosed as a plugged rad or head gasket or other problem. Comments on warming up and idling, pretty true. Remember however, starting at -40 is a whole different matter than -4. At -40 you wanna make sure the oil drips off the stick before you even try to crank it, then idle gently if it starts, raising rpms slowly. And even then there is no guarantee, only minimization of damage. Idling all night at low idle is a mistake, I agree, got to get the revs up a bit and splash the oil around. The old pup/starting gasoline engines were a real education in starting diesel engines. Really a work of ingenuity, they shared the same water jacket as the big engine so it warmed up the big engine a bit and the exhaust from the small engine passed though a tube in the big engine intake manifold, warming the intake air. The big engine had a compression release that was employed while rolling it over until the oil pressure was up and things were ready to start. Filling filters is a bit of a sore point for me. I fill them, from the outside/dirty side [remembering some filters are opposite flow] or not. My attitude with oil filters is if you have an oil pump that puts out say 30 gpm at idle it will fill the filter in seconds, if it doesn't you have a larger problem. I've had it happen then being blamed for not pre-filling the filter. As for fuel filters, notice Cummins filters for some time have a plug in the center to be removed after filling. Good idea. Like your advice.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

All standard automotive coolant thermostats function in the same manner: they are closed when the coolant is cold, and force the coolant to circulate around the block. Once the coolant approaches operating temperature the stat slowly starts to open and allow coolant to reach the radiator. Eventually, the stat is fully open and almost all coolant flow is through the radiator. No automotive stat closes off coolant movement; if it did you would see uneven heating of the block and possible damage. The coolant must keep moving at all times. So......a Cat coolant regulator is simply a standard coolant thermostat with a new-age name.

[@jerryplante4239]

Good info Josh. I run my 3126 at high idle for a couple of minutes and it seems to do the trick. A goo d indicator is when the airbox heater kicks off. I can tell when it wasn't long enough because the boost is low when I start driving. Happy New Year.

[@baileymiller546]

Happy New Year! A lot of people don't think about fuel mixing into oil I usually check my oil every morning before I drive the truck because I'm paranoid.

[@skylinefever]

My dad sometimes managed the vehicle fleet. He reimbursed employees for buying oil or antifreeze, no questions asked. Most people don't bother to check. He encountered plenty of engines that had to be replaced because nobody actually looks.

[@andrewmccaskill2845]

Great content love to learn new techniques and understand diesels in depth.

[@donmunro144]

Happy New Year. I prefill my fuel filters with power service. I use a full bottle for each filter on my cummins isx. Less chance of getting any crap from a new bottle than using fuel from a can.

[@mikenicholson2548]

Josh, I know you only work on cats. On cummins with the fuel filter change is they have a 10 ps prime pump. They recommend putting the filter on dry and letting the prime pump fill the filter. It's very convenient to cat.

[@maliknolan5711]

Great content KEEP updated more diesel info 👌🏽

[@spraga79]

3406E loosen fuel return line from head at filter house and use primer to remove air

[@ballacii]

I idled my 2017 f350 2 weeks ago for 34 hours straight doing my restart. When I hit thr road it blew white smoke for few miles and disappeared. Next day my cp4 exploded. Idk if the cp4 had anything to do with idling 34 hours but it was a new cp4 by powerhouse diesel less then 25k miles on it.

[@kw900lkevin]

cold starts under 30 degrees, start give it 3-5 mins idle then idle up 650-700 rpm 5 min then 800 for about 5 min, next as getting rolling idle out of parking spot, basically working gradually as getting on the highway getting tire sidewalls warmed up and trans diff and freewheeling hubs fluid up to working temp gradually

[@joecostu1571]

Here in Minnesota -15. -20.

[@nameshavebeenchangedtoprot2127]

Ever since I worked at a Mack dealership back in the 80's I was told to prefill the oil and fuel filters, regardless of clean or dirty side. Buying clean oil and prefilling the oil filter should not be a problem. As for the fuel, if you have clean fuel from a pump, that small amount in the filter will likely be fine for a filter change, anything cooming after will be filtered. But I wholley agree with everything else stated. My B series Cummins in my dodge has not seen any issues at over 300,000 miles doing it this way. I did add an aftermarket fuel filter system, with a water seperator and a filter and removing the factory crappy fuel filter it came with.

[@fastinradfordable]

😊cute my 1998 vw 1.9 diesel had 300,000 in 2009

[@timdunk7278]

Thank you.

[@arthurcitron9774]

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

[@johnnylightning1491]

Thanks for the pictures Jerry or is it Gerry? I don't know, but I'm sure it matters to him. Anyway Happy New Year to Mr. Josh Ape and everyone else here.

[@jeriwollmann7366]

It's Jerry. You are welcome man👍🎉

[@bob4bob3bob2bob]

Thank you Jerry.

[@sshobbies276]

@AdeptApe thank you so much for this type of video! I enjoyed this summary or highlights of other videos

[@JR.Garage]

Thanks Josh, regarding my issue with oil pressure drop! Most likely my oil filter collapse or something like that installed new one and everything works fine. Still doing an oil sample once I do my oil change this month

[@robertchristensen7950]

Was wondering if you heated the intake air, would it be more reasonable to idle the engine?

[@kimwood7411]

Thanks!

[@AdeptApe]

Thank you so much! Really appreciate it and Happy New Year's.

[@kevinjones7555]

the Fass fuel pump is great for priming the filters

[@mikemaginness9960]

As always! GREAT INFORMATION. 👍

[@Ripsaw17]

Fleetguard comes with a cap On its fuel filter so when you fill it it's fuels forced to go through the filter before it hits the center obviously you take the cap off once you install it

[@deanh7190]

HNY! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@casanovazombies356]

I used to let my truck warm up for 20 minutes everyday. Then I started using high idle (1,200rpm) til it gets to 100• then I drive it around it around 1500rpm til it’s up to temp

[@racghineering]

put a heater core/tube in your oil pan, create a bore hole for heater tube in to oil pan, for warming oil in freezing temperature,make a double battery for heater use only.. or use a heat gun instead for quict start if there is a electric plug in.

[@festus51]

Happy New Year I all ways watch your videos the end I enjoy them and learn from them With three Cats I need to stay on top of them

[@skewtuh]

The topic of idling, is optimized idle good or bad? I had a 2020 Cascadia that would start 20 times a night, I know that system has been around for ages (at least 20 years) but it would always fire, idle real low then bump up 6-700 and just about every day it would regen while parked (I was on paper so obviously I didn’t sit still long). But occasionally it would shut off during regen and fire back up and start regeneration again. It regenned on the hwy as well like it should, then would repeat the process. I was in and out of Freightliner it seemed every week because my cruise would set itself at governed speed, which was 78, it would set itself on ramps, in traffic, all kinds of wonderful places. I still have video of it doing it on the off ramp in Yakima, you couldn’t cancel it and there was no warning, it would just do it. Now that has nothing to do with idling, but there were sooooo many electrical issues with that truck so I can only assume other issues were happening. The truck only had 71 miles on it when I got it so everything was warranty work, but I was in every Freightliner in CO, CA, WA, OR, ID and UT it felt like. I ended up getting out of the truck, but they blamed it on new trailers, wheel speed sensors, driver not knowing how to set the cruise was my favorite one. I get the dash looks like a video game now, but it wasn’t like I was driving a space shuttle. Long story short, could any of that been attributed to opti idle? As in the electronics of it? Denver Freightliner ended up fixing it, but by that point I was out of the truck, but that was after over 170k and I couldn’t care less what happened to it

[@scottlarue5304]

I work on 3520s that burn landfill gas. We adjust valves and measure valve recession every 1,000 hours. When the valves move too far or in opposite directions, we replace the head (20 individual heads).

[@ianloy1854]

Do you record what is happening with each valve on each head? If you do you may find that some heads are going OK and may last twice as long as the lowest life heads. If they don't there is no saving to be had and a lot of peace of mind so change them all. Landfill gas - engines run on it but none of them love it.......

[@cullenmiller8170]

Happy New Year. Just make sure when you install fuel filters dry to spray lots of tractor crack into the intake to get it started. 😂😂

[@lungelinecowboy]

What's your thoughts on the Cummins X15 requiring a top end set up every 10,000 hours? Seems like a long time to me between.

[@wyattsyverson8603]

Noticed the music was back on the destruction of the week!

[@philipburrows]

Hi josh(adept ape) Wishing you a great new year and blessings of good tidings to you and your family and also to your 2 furry managers buddy and piper.

[@HodgesMaurice]

I have a truck with Volvo d13 its mixing diesel with fuel. had the dealership change all six injectors and cups. But it still has the same problem what do you think the problem might be?

[@youtubeisawesome2487]

fuel pump bottom left on rear, happy hunting.

[@ndg9367]

Thanks Josh, I have a 01 freightliner fl70 3126 cat engine. Is the cruise control is how you raise your engine idol? If so mine is not working but my engine does idol up for about 30 seconds when the engine is cold. I definitely need to take it to shop and get my cruise control fixed since it doesn't work at all right now.

[@jefferylara7679]

My truck was having cooling issues its a 6.7 cummins 24v in a 2011 ram 3500. The mechanics put in a thermostat that opens at 190F normal operating temp is 200F is that of concern or is it ok? It runs good now they did it as a just in case I guess

[@anastasiszaroliagis5066]

Sometimes in Europe we add sae 10 oil with diesel to the filters to clean the system, is this correct ?

[@RodneyB-f4t]

Looking to purchase a pre emissions remanufactured engine. What are the best companies to look at- Looking to install a cat or Detroit. Thks

[@KD-ng9nf]

Merry Christmas and a great New Year

[@jdgvee9313]

A late Merry Christmas and a HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[@mitchstephen5491]

How hard is it to change the high pressure fuel pump on a ct13 engine? Does the pump have to be timed with the engine? Thanks for any help on this question. Happy New year

[@Frank-sf1wh]

Thanks Josh, these are real helpful tips. I have been doing it right so far, according to your advise in this video.

[@jameshowe5051]

Happy new year Josh and thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@etcllc3519]

BTW, I love your videos and am not trying to cause problems. Just stating facts.

[@halleluYAH144]

Hey, love the info you bring! Question..is it safe to run Diesel Purge through a C7 HUEI pump when performing an oil change?

[@Outdoorsinthecarolinas]

Thank you for all your help and knowledge josh , watched your videos for a long time and has helped me with my C-12/ C-15 6NZ and 3406-E .. have a blessed and happy new year.....Tim

[@SzelachowskiTomek]

QUESTIOON how do you feel about working on a mx engine or what's called as a PACCAR