Top Link Repair for Discovery I, Defender, and Range Rover Classic

[@chrismitchell45]

Make sure if you buy the A-Frame stainless bolt kit, you also buy the two bushing bolts and nuts where they connect to the body. The kit only comes with the long bolts that connect the arms to the bearing and the nuts and bolts to remount the two brackets that hold the arms. Why this kit does not not come with them is a mystery. The arm bushing nuts and bolts are going to be trashed, even if they come out fairly easy. I just finished half of this job since I decided to replace the bushings while it was out in my 89’ ROW Defender 90. Now I’m waiting another week for these bolts and had to pay another $13 shipping for 2 nuts and 2 bolts. There is no cheaper option for shipping. I was fortunate at how easy the old bearing carrier came out. I did have to use a crescent wrench to hold the nut on the bushing bolt while using a breaker bar first on the other side and then an impact. To reiterate, depending on the age of the vehicle the bushing nuts and bolts will not be reusable.

[@StuartIvie]

That quick axle pop and rotation would startle the devil out of me.

[@chrismitchell45]

I don’t have a lift, I use floor jacks to jack stands. However, once it’s on jack stands I put the jacks under the lower rear shock mounts, lightly touching. No loud bangs and extra stress.

[@chrismitchell45]

If you do your upper link bushes at the same time, I’ve figured out a no press way to remove and install the bushes. My press is too small and the shape of the upper link arms make it a PITA in a press anyway. I do have a vice and impact wrench which makes a massive difference. I have a wheel bearing kit from harbor freight, a 3/4 drive 56MM socket and the vice. The kit I have uses a big screw and long nut. Put the arm in the vice with the bush vertical, put the screw through the bush from the top, slide the socket on underneath hollow side first, then thread on the nut. Put a wrench on the bottom nut and an impact on the screw head and start cranking it. Depending on your compressor it may take a a while. The key is, once the impact socket countersinks into the out bushing, pull the impact wrench off, take a drill or impact driver and drill bit and make holes in the rubber around the screw head. Put the impact back on and crank away again.pretty soon you’ll push it through. The screw head on the bearing tool is a 27mm and the impact socket goes in almost flush with the outer race. Once the inner race and rubber are pushed out, use the hacksaw trick and cut a seam in the outer race. Once that’s done, if you’ve got an air hammer, use the chisel that looks like a three pronged fork with the middle tine angle away from the other two and hammer next to the seam. Comes right out. If you don’t have an air hammer, buy one 😂. If not try and find that chisel. The one they use in trailerfitters videos tends to cut into the arm. Depending on your compressor and if you have these tools. It took me about 15 minutes to get it out. To install, still using the bearing tool kit, I once again used the screw but with a 3/4 drive 29MM socket to push in the bush. On the opposite side, I used a flat disk from the kit and then the screw first to get the bush almost all the way seated. Once it bottomed out, I swapped the flat disk for the 56MM socket to finish. This took about 5 minutes. I’m no longer scared of my radius arms lol. Cheers!

[@michelbonnet3787]

I think that to replace at the same time the bushes (NTC1773) could be a good idea, don't you ?

[@chrismitchell45]

Yes, do it, because it’s a messy job that’ should only be done once every 10 years or so lol. In my case every 30 years!

[@michelbonnet584]

@@chrismitchell45 I did it some time later, and it was a really hard work. All the bolts and nuts were rust welded and I had to use destructive means like chisel and grinder ! Next time in 22 years.

[@swank1975]

Man I should have gotten this when I did mine. I replaced that ball joint. That damn thing exploded out of my hydraulic press when I finally got it out of the bracket. This was after multiple soaks and with heat to pop it out. Wife came out of the house hearing the loud noises thinking the rover and fallen off the jack stands and onto me along with a neighbor walking over to see if I was ok. LOL

[@Terrifier1984]

Why exploded wast tha that bad fused ? Rust ?

[@secpac58chichi]

how much shop time would you estimate and apx. price of proline balljoint ? thanks

[@billyterry6141]

What size nut is it that holds the ball joint on please

[@trollsandgoblinsgoblin320]

can I ask what bumper is on this white d1? i want one thanks

[@macajr]

more of these please!

[@Defender-Guy]

How does the joint itself come apart? I removed the two 10mm bolts but nothing will move.

[@Jin-Ro]

That's the fun bit. 1: Buy a 20 ton press. 2: Cut the 'wings' off the ball joint (those two 10mm bolt wings) That way you can place it on a press sleeve. 3: Press it out. Note that sometimes even with a 20 ton press you may have to leave it overnight before it will pop out. They're real buggers.

[@Vtskier89]

Zack needs new tires

[@zackgriswold8021]

Just installed new ones Monday :)

[@chrisivan3978]

Nice harbor freight electric impact 😂