Tour this Ultimate Radial Arm Saw Table

[@leorbuis9024]

Nice build and well made video. One note though, as a dedicated radial arm enthusiast who bought his first radial arm saw brand new over 40 years ago, one of the main advantages of radial arm saws is that it allows you to cut angle cuts on long pieces of stock. I had a home framing business for decades and we used a radial arm saw on the job site to cut all of our rough frame lumber as well as all of our trim and that's one of its big advantages. For use in a shop though the way that you're using it your angle jig is probably a great idea for shorter stock. The removable center section is a nice touch and it's basically what we used to do with our job site radial arm saw every one or two houses we would just simply swap out that intersection. But I like your idea of putting a half inch stock on top of 3/4 that's not something that we were smart enough to do!

[@budsworkshop]

I appreciate the comments and feedback!

[@seymourwrasse3321]

I got my first RAS 40+ years ago, and I never thought of the angle jig. I just fought with the saw to get the angle cut then fought with it again to get it square again. great solution to a real PITA. thank you

[@budsworkshop]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@Halenstimbertime]

You Sir might be a Hobbyist as You say but a Highly trained Professional in Everything You Do attention to detail instructional articulation and delivery of this video are Perfect. Thank You Very Much!

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks for your kind words!

[@billmactiernan6304]

Very nice video. You seem to have come to the same conclusion that I did years ago that you shouldn't "radial" the radial arm. Leaving it locked at 90 degrees once it's dead on accurate, leaves it dead on accurate. I note, that you know that slow cutting, as opposed to yanking the saw, provides smoother, more accurate and safer cuts. I also note that you have a table saw. Now that you have a "well tuned" radial arm saw, it would be interesting to keep track of the use of each and which you prefer for various cuts.

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks! I primarily use the table saw for rip cuts. That said my miter saw has become somewhat obsolete. :-)

[@roberttheurer6719]

I have the same model you do for radial saw. So sometime hopefully in the winter time here I will make that table that you did and thank you for showing and coming up with that. I'm more like you I like details making things safer and easier and nicer

[@budsworkshop]

Sounds great! You will enjoy the table. Happy building!

[@anthonylyon3398]

Well done...exactly what i have been looking for to replicate for my Radial Arm Saw. Best i have seen.

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks!

[@ebglock]

Wow! Great job. I need to replace mine and I will use some of your ideas.

[@csimet]

Nice build... especially the use of the removable angle options to keep the saw at 90. I wish I had my dad's vintage Craftsman 10" radial saw (late 60s, early 70s), but he got rid of it sometime in the last year before he passed. It would have found a perfect new home next to my miter saw and shared the same table/fences... used for dedicated dado cuts. I was able to obtain his 1969 113 table saw (still working like a champ - built like a tank).

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks. Gotta love the endurance of those old tools. Solid construction!

[@seymourwrasse3321]

you can pick them up for free to $100, I live in the middle of nowhere and got one for $75 and over paid. A new blade and table and it's just like a $500 new one

[@dannmarks]

Thanks, I just yesterday bought the same saw - for $60 - though. Yesterday I put it on a mobile base because my shop is only a 2 car garage and I work out in the driveway a lot. I did not think of you pattern idea and I will be making a top like that as well. may even go with the walnut. Try as i may - 5S has not made it place in my shop. I do try to keep it blown out clean on the floor, but otherwise it is a dusty haven.

[@budsworkshop]

Ah, the joys of woodworking. Never enough space for our toys and you find saw dust in places you never knew you had. :-) Good luck with your new saw!

[@ypaulbrown]

very enjoyable video, thank you for sharing.....Paul in Florida

[@budsworkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@bobsherman3072]

Very nice and functional design! Can you please tell me how far - to the left and the right of the saw blade - did you position your two tracks that run from the front to the back of the table? This would be most helpful. Thanks!

[@budsworkshop]

Location is flexible. Mine are 4 1/2” and 29 1/2” from the left side.

[@bobsherman3072]

Many thanks for this information!

[@jayjake36]

Really cool!

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks!

[@KevinCoop1]

You should check your serial number to see if you can get the safety guards for the blade free. That one might be new enough to still get one. Very nice saw and table. Is that a 10” or 12”? With my 12” and a c-clamp, I can cut (16) 1x4’s exactly the same length in two pulls. You got a great deal!

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks for the tip! I will check that out. My saw is a 10”.

[@dponzi56]

Very cool top. I have an old Craftsman radial arm saw. I thinks its a bit older than yours. It doesn't have the digital stuff on it. My moms husband gave it to me sometime in the late 80's. He bought it about 1983 and never used it. It was still in the box. I think I use it more than any other saw I have, including 2 table saws and a miter saw. Mine is due for a new top and fence. I would like to try an build your top. It looks fantastic.

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks! I can see this being my go to for things that I use the table saw and miter saw for as well. Would love to see what you come up with for your new top.

[@hmmmr2]

What would you think about adding a dust collection chute to the rear of the saw? And how are you handling making angle cuts in the middle of long stock, such as cutting baseboard trim? Do you just cut the stock long at 90-deg before making the angle cuts?

[@budsworkshop]

@hmmmr2 I have played with a couple dust collection ideas but haven’t landed on one yet. As for the angle cuts, I can cut angles with a 2” overhang so I just cut the board length down to fit within that limit.

[@shweenk]

where can i source the track? i've had my saw for 4 or 5 years-10" craftsman was new in 73. has needed table since i got it & it's been out of site in the back of my shed. it came w/a book on RAS's, w/instructions on how to replace the table. the book really complicates the job-yours is so much easier! the tracks are a great idea! i'm guessing the tracks are aluminum to minimize damage to the blade if it makes contact? great video!

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks, yes the tracks are aluminum and pretty standard T Tracks. You can search for t track on Amazon and will find lots of options.

[@roofermarc1]

Might I suggest a RA 1030 Dewalt to find its way to your shop!

[@budsworkshop]

That is a nice vintage RAS! If only...:-)

[@GregMills-k9g]

How did you square up the fence to the blade so it is exactly 90 degrees ?

[@budsworkshop]

It was actually pretty simple. I loosened the swivel lock on the side, squared the blade to the fence and reengaged the swivel lock.

[@GregMills-k9g]

@@budsworkshop Thank you Sir !

[@mikeking7470]

The "chewed up fence" is supposed to be chewed up, it is a sacrificial fence.

[@budsworkshop]

Completely get it. Just didn’t like it. :-)

[@scottadams3544]

My fence slides? If you where not done already id say recess the metal track and make the "sacrifice" wood slide to match your angel cuts or mortise plundges.

[@coreypacillo8204]

I just picked up this exact same saw. My plan is to integrate the entire saw into a workbench, and steal your "T Track" idea😂

[@budsworkshop]

Excellent! I really enjoy using this saw. The track system just about eliminates my need for a miter saw.

[@captainnapalm8207]

Question for you, how difficult would it be to add some sort of retention mechanism for the blade, such that it retracts back behind the fence after use? I've seen such systems on modern radial arm saws, so I'm wondering, if I were to get an old one for cheap, could I retrofit it to function that way? Thanks

[@budsworkshop]

I am sure you could rig up a spring systems to pull the saw back. Getting the right tension would be key. Not to much that you have to pull the saw hard yet tight enough that it pulls the saw all the way back.

[@joshuamurphy5073]

I've never tried, but I'd probably look into using pulleys and weights, like some do for heavy drillpress tables. No variability in tension and easy to fine tune.

[@captainnapalm8207]

@@joshuamurphy5073 That's, well, actually a really great idea! Thanks!

[@peethaselden9014]

Height adjustment to level table to arm? Nice table. Ive been wanting to use some "T" track to make a sled for ripping with my radial arm saw. I have an electronic craftsman, though I stopped using it, becuase I came across a much older 12" craftsman tbT is so much beefier, and both an older 10", and 12" DeWalt Ras. None of which cozt me more than $20! I love how inexpensive these most versatile saws are! People are scared of them, and I think that is just swell. The lord hates a coward, and table saws are much scarier to me. Nice table

[@Roy-ij1wq]

Very nice build but you are limiting the capabilities of the saw and could do more with a few modifications. I build my tables so the front edge is perfectly parallel to the fence. This way I can easily set angles from the front with my Starret protracter. I have several T-nuts mounted on the underside of the table about 3" from the path of the blade on both sides and use them to secure the pivot point of miter fence at any angle. The miter fence can be any length and include stop blocks or molding jigs. I use a Kreg quick clamp to secure the other end of the miter fence to the front or side of the table. I have used T-tracks instead of T-nuts but switched because of the price. I also use my saw for ripping. I like the 1 1/8" particle board top that came with most Craftsman RAS and added a hardwood edge band. Menards sells it either faced or unfaced for workbench tops. I add a 3/4" MDF sacrificial top to the front and a 1/2" MDF top to the rear table. This allows me to swing the arm without raising the blade. My T-nuts are mounted to the underside of the particleboard top and are not in danger of getting cut. And when the miter fence is not installed, sawdust falls through the hole. I also added angle brackets on the underside of the front and rear tables and connected them with threaded rod. Cams on the front bracket allow me to quickly change out fences from the front rather that fooling with thumb screws on the back. And last, fences are suppose to be sacrificial and work best if they are zero clearance. I designed mine to be in two pieces where the piece on the left overlaps and is supported by the piece on the right. The piece on the right has a backward L shape and is supported by a clip on the underside of the table. It doesn't get chewed up like the one on the left because the right side of the kerf is always in the same spot no matter the thickness of the blade or dado. If you haven't read it already, I highly recommend Jon Eakes book Fine Tuning a Radial Arm Saw. The book is available as an ebook on his website.

[@budsworkshop]

Thanks for the feedback and recommendations. I’ll be sure to check out Jon Eakes book.

[@frictionhitch]

Didn't you just turn your radial arm saw into a niter saw. That seems pretty limiting to me.

[@scottadams3544]

Why! What is wrong with your saw that you would not just ajust your angle on the tool?

[@ScreamingEagleFTW]

Its called a Radial arm saw because the arm rotates to make the miter angles. There is no need to install tracks and defeat the design of the saw.

[@seymourwrasse3321]

what style blade do you have on it?

[@budsworkshop]

It is a 60 tooth CMT blade. It has a smaller hook which helps reduce climbing. Great blade!