Toyota 20R Basic Carburetor Tuning Procedure & Info

[@codybontecou]

Perfect and concise. Appreciate the video. We’re working on getting my 77 Toyota Keystone legal in California and this is exactly what we needed.

[@The13thSword]

I'm glad the video helped you out. I would hope you could get it legal in Cali. There was no OEM CAT on the exhaust & as long as what OEM smog equipment passes visual (working or not) I don't foresee any problem. When the 20R & 22R is in decent mechanical shape & is in tune (timing & fuel), they run pretty clean.

[@Blessall50]

Thank you dude I’m stuck in Vegas because I can’t get over the hill back to California I can’t get enough power out the engine I’ll try to tune it up and let’s hope for the best

[@The13thSword]

I hope the info helps you get home. Best of luck. 🤞

[@zackhawks9923]

Will thw carb tunning be the same for a desmoged 20r. Working on tunning up my 79'. Love the instructions. Just followed the ignition module conversion and seems to work great. Thank you so much!

[@The13thSword]

Yes it should be the same. The only difference with an engine that still has all of it's smog equipment is the extra vacuum lines & equipment, & whether or not they are in good condition. Vacuum leaks can & will effect carb tuning, and such vacuum leaks can make tuning a carb almost impossible. So it's best to make sure you have no vacuum leaks before trying to tune the carb. Since your setup is desmogged this should be fairly easy to confirm. It's also important to have the engine base timing as close to spec as possible. As long as you can start, warm up & run the engine at some workable idle speed at full operating temperature, that's fine for an initial carb tune. Once you tune the carb it would be a good idea to use a timing light to see what the timing is at hot idle. The timing spec for the 20R is 8 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). If after the initial carb tune the timing is found to be "off", you can loosen the distributor hold-down bolt & adjust the distributor to get the correct timing. You won't have to turn the distributor very much to make a large difference in the timing, so easy does it works here. Once timing is set make sure you tighten down the distributor hold-down bolt. Then go back & retune the carb again. In case you might need it, here are the basic instructions for tuning to best lean idle without using a vacuum gauge: www.lceperformance.com/category-s/23365.htm#:~:text=The%20first%20thing%20to%20do,and%20begin%20to%20smooth%20out. This will work on almost any make or brand of carb, as nearly all carbs work the same way. This is the basic carb tuning procedure I use. It's also possible to do a finer tune if you use a vacuum gauge. Here's a good basic video on that:kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3PFdZKAobB1fbs I've rarely done a vacuum gauge tuning because I don't have a good one to use, but the basic procedure without using a gauge has always worked well for me. Glad to hear your HEI conversion is working well for you. If I can be of any other service just let me know.

[@barrythompson6387]

Many Thanks you for the VERY detailed vid!!!! Think I got a bad load of gas- ran really rough. Just got $330 overhauled carb back and installed on 1980 20r motor, 5 speed. Followed your directions explicitly. Smokes like crazy during cold warm up- blue smoke. Once warm, seems to run fine with no obvious smoke. Runs smooth down the highway. Recommendation please?

[@The13thSword]

Blue smoke is a fairly reliable sign that your engine is burning oil. The oil could be getting into the combustion chamber for a variety of reasons, some of which are minor fixes, while other reasons can indicate something more serious. Since you say it runs fine after warm-up & runs smooth down the highway, I expect (and hope) that it's something minor. Possible minor issues would be: 1. Bad PCV Valve. If the valve is stuck open due to being gummed up inside or the internal spring /mechanism is frozen open, the constant vacuum from the carb can draw small amounts of oil into the carb & then send that oil to the cylinders to be burned. Normally, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is only supposed to open if you have excessive pressure in the crankcase. Such excessive pressure can result from small amount of "blow-by". Blow-by is cylinder pressure escaping past the piston rings and into the crankcase (more on this later). Take out the PCV valve from the valve cover & shake it; it should rattle. If it doesn't rattle you can try cleaning it internally with parts cleaner or carb spray, or just put in a new valve. 2. Broken, worn, missing, cracked Valve Stem Seals. These seals keep the oil that lubricates your valvetrain (camshaft, rocker arms, upper stems of valves) from running past the valve stems and into the combustion chamber. Only way to check these is to remover the valve cover & physically check them out. I doubt these are your issue though, as once a valve stem seal(s) starts leaking, it's usually not affected by changes in heat (cold engine to warmed up). More serious issues: 3: Worn Valve Stems and/or Valve Stem Guides allowing oil into cylinder. Only fix for this is to have a qualified machine shop do a "valve job" on your cylinder head. The old Valve Stem Guides are removed & replaced with new ones & any valves with worn stems get replaced, if not all of the valves being replaced with new valves. Valve Seats may also be cleaned up or replaced. 4. Possible leaks in head gasket. It's not common but there could be damage to the head gasket, allowing oil to seep into a combustion chamber. Once the engine heats up, this "leak path" could seal up. This problem is difficult to verify without removing the head to visually check for it, but if you go that far, you're going to be putting in a new head gasket anyway, along with new head bolt. (Never reuse head bolts, get new ones. Head bolts are designed to "stretch-to-torque" and are considered to be a single use item.) 5. Worn Piston Rings. Again, this could allow excessive pressure into the crankcase & push oil past the PCV valve and into the engine to be burned. This will happen even with a properly functioning PCV Valve. Once the engine warms up the rings expand & provide a better seal, so the excessive crankcase pressure "goes away"; all the pressure is contained in the combustion chamber. It's also possible that worn rings can allow oil to come UP past the rings & into the combustion chamber but this is a bit rare/less probable. The only reliable way to check if your piston rings are worn is a compression test. Decent video on this here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGiolYWteLxsfNU 20R compression specs are: standard 156 PSI, minimum compression 128 PSI. These specs are with the compression test done on a "cold" engine. The compression of all 4 cylinders should be within 10% of each other. Opinions/other thoughts: You could also try pulling your spark plugs (cold) one at a time & check for deposits. If all 4 plugs have some black deposits & you're sure your carb mixture is set correctly, that would tell me that the oil is getting into the engine to be burned from the intake side (PCV Valve into carb). If only one of the plugs has black deposits, then it's likely that cylinder has one of the following problems: valve stem seal leaking, valve stem or valve stem guide worn, worn piston rings on that cylinder. The Valve Stem Seal can be likely, the rest not so likely. What oil are you running? Original oil spec for the 20R is 10W-30. I have run both 10W-40 & 10W30 in mine, currently using 10W-30 (Pennzoil full synthetic(note below)) with no issues. I ask because running too thin an oil could lead to seepage problems if you have one or some leaking Valve Stem Seals or other leaking oil seals (front or rear main seals, engine gaskets, valve cover gasket, etc.) I wouldn't use anything lower than a 10W-30 oil. Some of the more modern oils like 5W-30 or even 0W-20 are much thinner and should not be used in a 20R or 22R. Also, the Pennzoil full synthetic has additives in it (zinc) that help keep your valves train properly lubricated & functioning. Sorry for the long answer but I try to be as complete as possible. If you're not too keen to do any extensive testing or possible rebuilding, and the "blue smoke" only lasts a minute or so on start up, you really aren't doing much damage by continuing to drive it that way. Driving after warm up when the smoke stops will help burn off any deposits left behind by the burned oil. And since you say it runs well after warm up, I think this is a minor issue at present. What you want or don't want to do about it is up to you, but I just wanted you to have as much info as possible.

[@barrythompson6387]

@@The13thSword "Sorry for the long answer" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH O M G WHAT and education you have given ALL us!!!!!!!! YOUR response applies to EVERYONE!!!!! SO appreciative!!!!! I'm running Mobile 1 10-30 but now, may change to Pennzoil !!! :) I'm 73 and I have only found 2 others that like you, that are 'masters' of their craft. David Odell complete concrete and Steven Lavimoniere-HVAC NOW, I have 3 geniuses helping me!!!!!!!!!!!! Most hosts of utube channels reply to some questions- YOU REPLY TO ALL. On behalf of us all- THANK YOU

[@The13thSword]

@@barrythompson6387 I appreciate the recognition. It's my personal opinion that knowledge gained but not shared when needed is a waste of knowledge. I do try to answer all questions that come in because someone took the time to ask, and it deserves an answer. Not sure about being a "genius"; I've just always tried to apply my brain, is all. But thanks for the compliment. I'm also glad that you realize that my responses will also get read by others down the line, which is the reason I try to be so complete. BTW, I looked up your Mobil 1 10-30 and you can stick with it. It has plenty of zinc & phosphorus in it (more than enough), so it's good for that old valvetrain. No extra additives needed. Bonus economic tip - Don't pay the auto parts store prices for motor oil, which are normally $37 to $40 for a 5 quart jug. The prices for the same product at Home Depot or Wal-Mart is usually $23 to $26 a jug (as of this writing 11/2024). No difference in product quality. Thanks again for the kind words & let me know if I can be of any other assistance to you.

[@barrythompson6387]

@@The13thSword I M subscribed!!!!!!! YES---MOBILE 1!!!!!!!!!!!!! SO glad it passed YOUR scrutiny- one less problem hahaha. Yep, I agree...Walmart is great for certain items- they must buy so much in bulk- get a good price and pass on to customers- Thank you Mr. Walton :) Ok the, my truck has you on 'speed-dial'- Many thanks again for All your help Barry

[@The13thSword]

@@barrythompson6387 Thanks for the sub, it is much appreciated. It's not so much my scrutiny but Google's. I love being able to do research in seconds to find the useful info I need. I'll be around if you need any more info in the future. Thanks again for all of the kind words.

[@victorhernandez6692]

Thanks for the videos! I think I have a carb issue on my 79 Toyota pickup. Won’t pass smog. Says it’s running too rich. Too much CO2. Trying to figure out what the problem is and ran into your videos. Any advice??

[@The13thSword]

Hard to say without more specific info on what exactly you have going on with your setup. Such as: 1. Carb - Is it the original carb? Has it been rebuilt recently (like within the past year or two)? Have you tested the carb for any vacuum leaks by using carb cleaning spray while the engine is running & listening for surges? Are the vacuum lines to the carb all hooked up properly & in good condition? Does the choke plate (plate in the top of the carb) move freely when fully warmed up? Have you lubricated all the linkage points? Do you have a throttle linkage from the gas pedal or a cable? That linkage needs to be cleaned & lubed as well, & if it's a cable you need to internally lube the cable. If cable, inspect the cable for any damage or problem, replace if needed. There is also a possibility that if the carb is original, someone previous to you caused some minor damage. Most common problem I've seen is that someone previous to you seated the idle mixture screw too tightly. This can cause a groove to be pressed into the screw top, or enlarge the hole that the tip goes into. This can cause excess fuel to pass through the idle circuit & cause a rich condition at idle. 2. Fuel - Are your rubber fuel lines old or new? What kind of fuel are you running? If you still have older fuel lines but are using today's modern Ethanol-laced gasoline, the Ethanol can deteriorate the inside of those rubber lines & particles can come loose from them. Those particles can get to the carb & partially or completely block the idle passages, causing a rich condition. How old is the fuel filter? 3. Engine timing - If the engine timing is not correctly set it could cause an incomplete burn of the fuel (rich). You'll need a timing light to do this properly. Timing spec is 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at idle, fully warmed up with choke plate fully open. 4. Ignition System - Old or new components in the ignition system? Misfires can cause a rich condition (higher CO2 at tailpipe). A worn or malfunctioning distributor can do the same; is it the original? How many miles on it? There are a few things that can go wrong with the distributor, such as the vacuum advance diaphragm not working, the pickup coil being out of spec from wear/use/age, or advance weights sticking (no/slow/inconsistent ignition advance). Advance weight pivot points need to be occasionally oiled. 5. Engine - Have you done a compression check on the engine? If you have leaky valves or worn piston rings this could be an issue. Let me know about these things or use the above as a checklist to try to solve the issue.

[@dawitkassa3131]

My 1979 toyota 20R fires up right away. But the engine is suffering from higher RPM and hot red exhaust pipe. Vacuums checked all tight. The exhaust pipe detached from the catalytic to check clogs, but the problem keeps going red hot pipe. Any idea. Please help. Thanks

[@The13thSword]

The two main things that could cause this are: 1. Lean Fuel Condition. This usually* means that the fuel to air ratio does not have enough fuel in it & burns hotter than a "correct" air to fuel ratio. *Lean conditions can be either fuel delivery related or otherwise. See #2 below for the "otherwise". To verify an overall lean condition, wait until the engine is completely cool & remove the spark plugs & keep them in order so you know which one was in which cylinder. Inspect the electrodes & insulators of the spark plugs. Normal condition - electrodes & insulators will appear intact with no damage & they will have a light tan to light gray appearance. Lean Condition - Electrodes may or may not appear damaged (sharp edges worn away, pitted, possibly even look melted in places), insulators may be cracked, worn or even have pieces missing. Color on electrodes & insulators will be white & possibly also have a "sooty" or "ash-like deposits on them. That's a sure sign of a lean condition. The first usual suspect is the carburetor. You say the vacuum lines all check out (no vacuum leaks) but the carb itself could be the source of a vacuum leak, if it's older & possibly worn. There are bushings in the base of the carb for the lower throttle plate rod that can wear out & admit extra air to be drawn in at the base of the carb, causing a lean condition (too much air, not enough fuel). There might also be air leaks from damaged gaskets. The carb could also have partially blocked jets or passages due to debris in the carb, not allowing the correct metering or flow of fuel. 2. Lean Condition due to incorrect engine timing. Either the initial engine timing is set too advanced, or the distributor advance is providing too much ignition advance, or both. In the case of too much ignition advance the carb may actually be OK & it's giving the correct air/fuel ratio. However, because of too much ignition advance, the engine isn't able to burn all of the fuel, causing a lean condition. Possible Issues: Initial engine timing set too advanced. The spec for the 20R is 8 degrees before top dead center at full hot idle. If you haven't messed with this timing or you know you previously set it correctly, or checked it previously with a timing light, you can skip this one. Since the engine starts well I wouldn't worry about it too much. Distributor Problems - Advance mechanism possibly stuck in advanced position. Advance weights stuck in advanced position. Both of these can usually be solved with some careful cleaning & lubrication, using a light oil on the mechanism & it's moving points, like ATF (auto trans fluid) or a mineral oil like 3-in-1 oil or similar. WD-40 not recommended as it doesn't last. Weak, broken or missing Advance Weight Springs causing advance weights to move too far out, giving too much ignition advance. Possibly worn out distributor; especially true if it's original. Replace with a quality rebuilt unit if found to be worn out. Less likely but possible - Distributor Vacuum Advance Diaphragm hooked up to a non-ported* vacuum source. That would give the advance mechanism constant vacuum & it would be chronically fully advanced. * Non-ported vacuum is constant engine vacuum, ported vacuum is vacuum that varies by engine speed. The vacuum advance diaphragm needs ported vacuum to operate correctly. The correct vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm is on the passenger side of the carb, below the Idle Mixture Screw, & points towards the front of the vehicle. That's about all I can think of. Let me know what you find and/or any updates. Any other questions just ask.

[@dawitkassa3131]

@The13thSword Thank you for the brief explanations, Sir. All you mentioned was detail done, even a new rebult carburetor installed, but the problem was not solved. After all these exams,cylinder head detached. The findings were interesting. 1/ one of the cylinder head water supply hole, and the matching engine block water intake hole found chipped size of pin hole,; and this causes coolant drainage toward the combustion chamber,this causes mixture gas and coolant. 2/ cylinder #1 top piston ring found broken. 3/ For detailed instructions, all pistons were removed without removing the crank shaft, oil pan removed (pain in ass). and unbolting connecting rods from the bottom. 4/ cylinder #2, the liner/ sleeve found straight line cracked. The remaining three cylinders were found in good shape. When the # 3 piston pulled out, the piston rings were found socked with coolant water,and it sprinkled all over the engine bay. The remaining cylinder block sleeves are found in good shape. 5/ Now in the process, trying to install liners without taking apart the engine. The aluminum Cylinder head chiped coolant supply hole welded and resurfaced lightly. The engine block chipped hole, not yet. The coolant intake hole is very close to the combustion chamber. It needs good repair. So, the findings conclusions about red hot pipe were gas escape from combustion chamber and mixed with coolant, and un burned gas exits through the exhaust manifold to the pipe. When the radiator pressurized, it created coolant mist through the liner crack wall, which means another contribution to gas and coolant mixing problems. I dont even understand how the car was starting from all these cancers. Now, pulling out liners without any damage became another pain. Any thoughts abouttha, let me know. Again, thank you for your response.

[@The13thSword]

@@dawitkassa3131 The following may not be the answer you expected to hear, but I have to be completely honest with you, to help save you much work and possible frustration. Unless you are a machinist by trade (job) and work in an auto machine shop equipped with all of the specialized tools and machines, I do not recommend that you attempt to replace the cylinder liners yourself. Reasons: 1. The cylinder liners are a VERY tight press-fit (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_fit) that requires specialized tools and machinery (usually a hydraulic press) to do correctly and without damage to either the new liners or the engine block. 2. Trying to do this job with hand tools and with the engine still in the vehicle is going to be very difficult if not impossible to do correctly without possible further damage. Also, given the types and amount of damage you have (as you said, "all these cancers"), if it were my engine, I'd want to do a complete rebuild on it. That would include removing the engine from the vehicle and at least sending the engine block to an auto machine shop, so they can thoroughly clean it*, test it for block cracks, and have them remove the old cylinder liners and install the new ones. They can also fix the "chipped hole" in the block. The block is cast iron which is not easy to weld correctly without the correct equipment & experience. *Such a shop can "hot tank" the block, submerging it in heated solvents. This will remove any/all oil,/grease, dirt, deposits, etc. Even more important it will dissolve any built-up deposits, blockages or clogs in the block's coolant passages. Based on my skill level and experience, I could handle everything else myself (disassembly, cleaning, measuring/checking parts for wear & replacing if needed). I know this sounds like a lot of work, (it is) and a pain in the ass (it is), but it's the best way to get the job done correctly with a minimum of problems. Plus a full rebuild like this will basically give you a like-new engine that you will likely never have to worry about again as long as you own it. That would be the benefit of this amount of effort & work. Given the damages you have described, I'd be worried that some or many other parts could have problems or just be worn out & in need of replacing too. Particularly things like crankshaft journal bearings, connecting rod bearings, damaged pistons, etc. Having coolant in areas of the engine block that were only meant to have oil is a big problem, and can damage parts easily, as you have found. So, as long as the block doesn't have any cracks in it because of the coolant issues, and any minor things can be welded/repaired, I'd rebuild it. If the block isn't rebuildable then I'd have to consider finding another 20R to build, or maybe a good condition running/used 22R engine to install in the vehicle. It would be a straight "drop-in" as the 22R is basically the same block as the 20R, it will bolt up to the existing transmission & it has the same motor mounts as the 20R. The choices are up to you.

[@dawitkassa3131]

@The13thSword Sir, again,I am very thankful for the explanations and suggestions you gave me. Yes, engine removal and machine shop work would be my only chance. The car has only 24,000 miles on it, interior,body all rock solid. It's going to be expensive repair. I tried to find 20R or 22R locally, but I couldn't find one.Even though I found one, it's hard to tell the condition of the engine. As you suggested, I will take it to a professional machine shop to get the job done right. Thank you so much. !!!

[@The13thSword]

@@dawitkassa3131 You are most welcome and I'm glad to be of some help. If the vehicle in fact has only 24,000 miles on it, and that engine is original to the vehicle, then that's a good sign for you. The engine only has 24,000 miles of "stress" on it, so it's much more likely that it is in better than fair structural condition, overall. If it had been sitting for quite some time instead of being used/driven, I could see how some corrosion in the cooling system lead to that "hole" in the head & block, causing the "blown head gasket, and also causing the damaged you described. As long as it wasn't run excessively in that condition, I'd think you are in very good shape for a rebuild without any major issues. I certainly hope that is the case for you. Please keep me updated at your own convenience on any progress you have. I'd like to know what happens next. I will keep a good thought for you. 👍

[@MikePresents2]

Great video. Thank you.

[@The13thSword]

Thanks for the view & comment. Glad to be of help.

[@davidflatcutf3286]

Thanks for the informative video. I haven't fooled with my carb yet, but kind of think my '78 pickup could run a little smoother. It sometimes does a little hiccup after being turned off, like it wants to keep going. Too rich? Not a serious problem and I'm not sure if the timing may be the culprit as I bought it from a place with higher elevation and I live pretty much at sea level. (No changes have been made to the timing since I got it. I saw your video about timing adjustment but would rather leave it to a pro based on my lack of experience.). BTW, have you had any problems with water collecting on the floorboards after heavy rain? I can tell its getting into my cab through the engine wall but have no idea how.

[@The13thSword]

In your particular conditions as described, I'd be looking at the timing first as it ,ay have been set for "high altitude*", meaning it may be too far advanced for lower altitude driving conditions, and this should be set first before trying to change the idle mixture screw setting. Base engine timing & idle mixture are interrelated but the base engine timing should always be set first. * By "high altitude" this usually means operation at 5000 feet in elevation or higher. Most road vehicles with carburetors don't need timing or carb adjustments for anything below 5000 feet. More on this below. Unless you know precisely what a previous owner did to engine timing settings or carb settings for "high elevation" you're basically guessing, so it's best to "baseline" the settings & go from there. To explain further about why I'd look at the timing first. In general for high elevation running (rule of thumb) the timing needs to have a more advanced base timing than that at sea level, usually on the order of 1/2 to 1 degree of advance for every 1000 feet above sea level. This is because air pressure higher up is less (less dense air), therefore you get less oxygen. You'd also need to adjust the fuel delivery. Why? Because the ideal air/fuel ratio for complete & efficient combustion of gasoline is 14.7 to 1, air to fuel (also known as stoichiometric air fuel ratio). Less oxygen, less fuel to maintain as close as possible that 14.7/1 ratio. So your comment about the system possibly being too rich may be on the money here, and it might only take an engine timing adjustment to make that "run on" stop happening. Like I said before, "high altitude" adjustments really isn't necessary for a street driven, carburetor equipped vehicle operated at 5000 feet in elevation or less, but you never know what strangeness people will to to a vehicle, IF they think it's just got to be done. So it would be best to get those "baseline" settings first by finding out exactly where the engine time is & then adjust the carb accordingly. I understand your stance about "leaving it to a pro" about engine timing, however these days it can be difficult to near impossible to find a tech that even knows what a timing light is, much less how to use one, since most vehicle's engine timing has been on-board computer controlled since the 90's. It's really not that difficult to do & you shouldn't have to worry too much about "messing things up" as long as you work with care and really take your time making small adjustments. As for a timing light, you can get a basic one from any local Harbor Freight or online for about $30. Example: www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html There are also plenty of videos on YT that can teach you how to use a timing light to set base engine timing. As far as water in the cab, yes I've had to deal with that & am currently dealing with that, due to my wiper system breaking on me. In trying to fix the wiper system, which is mounted inside the cowl area, I found that there are some rust holes in the outer cowl metal, that is allowing rain water inside the cowl. There are supposed to be tubes inside the cowl that allow rainwater to drain out of the inner cowl space, but I'm assuming that those are clogged & not allowing drainage, & I can't get to them without removing the fenders. Over time that standing water inside the cowl has caused some rust holes through the bottom side cowl metal so that the water now leaks into the cab. My solution for this might sound odd to some but it's what I have to do. I have two plexiglass panels that I am going to put over the two vents areas in the upper cowl to close/seal them off. I have located all of the rust holes in the outer cowl metal and those are going to get wire-brushed to remove surface rust & then sealed with clear silicone caulking. If I have any leaks after that then the only possible leak area is going to be the windshield gasket, which I will replace if necessary. I would urge you to attend to the problem sooner rather than later. A previous owner of my truck did a half-butt job of trying to seal it up (using roofing tar!) and apparently it leaked onto the floors for a long time. I have rust holes in my floor on both sides & those are going to take a lot of effort & time to fix properly. So it would be best to fix the leaks before that happens to you.

[@davidflatcutf3286]

@@The13thSword Thank you very much for the information. Unfortunately the leak problem I've had has already caused some pretty severe rust issues on my cab floor. I don't have any covered area to park it so it gets left to the elements!

[@The13thSword]

@@davidflatcutf3286 Sorry to hear about that. Only short term suggestion I'd have is a tarp over the cab area & some weights to hold it in place so it doesn't get even worse. If you've got any plans to fix the floor there is some good news. It used to be that you couldn't get preformed replacement floor panels for these trucks, but now they have become available though several sellers on Ebay out of Thailand. Just search on Ebay for "Toyota RN25 Floor Panel" and you'll see them. Prices are fairly reasonable.

[@llmasterllp]

Hi I have a 1980 Celica with a 20r it cranks and cranks but doesn’t start. The fuel pump is working because if I take the line off fuel is pumping. When I pour gas down the carb it starts but then dies. Any ideas

[@The13thSword]

Since you have fuel delivery from the fuel pump & spark and the engine fires if you manually put gas in the carb, it's likely either the carburetor or an additional fuel delivery problem. By saying "if I take the line off fuel is pumping" O assume you mean the line at the carb itself? And not some other fuel line connection further away from the carb? I ask this because sometimes of you disconnect the fuel line behind the fuel filter you'll see fuel pumping, but the fuel filter could be clogged, keeping fuel from getting to the carb. For the carb itself, if it hasn't been internally cleaned, rebuilt or replaced for a long time there could be several issues. Clogged up idle or main circuits (can happen if the vehicle has sat for a while), or worn out throttle rod bushings in the base allowing in too much air, or other worn out internal parts. A less likely issue would be the fuel pump relay. It doesn't happen often but occasionally the contacts in the relay on the "RUN" side get pitted or corroded & then the fuel pump won't get voltage on the "RUN" side, but will get voltage when the key is in the "Start" (cranking) position. This happens because over time, the "RUN contacts are used for a longer period of time in use than the START contacts. Same thing goes for the fuel pump resistor, as the resistor is only working when running, not during starting. Second less likely possibility is the ignition switch, for the same reasons stated above. If this car has sat for any long periods of time, I highly suggest that the entire fuel & electrical systems be completely gone through. I know from experience that in such cases, it's almost never just one part of a system that needs repair.

[@Juan-uo6zu]

I’ve been struggling with my 1980 toyo it won’t start anymore it was working fine and it wouldn’t turn on once it was warm. Next morning it just won’t turn over anymore unless I push the gas peddle but it’ll just drop back done and die.

[@The13thSword]

I would suspect a fuel issue, likely the carburetor. From what you describe, I'd suspect a blocked idle circuit, with the main circuit is still open & working. The idle circuit has a much smaller bore than the main circuit, so it's more likely to get clogged up before the main does. There could also be other issues with the carb & fuel system that cause this, but it's hard to say without actually looking at it. Has the carb ever been cleaned or rebuilt? Is the fuel filter dirty inside? Are there any fuel leaks anywhere from the tank to the carb? Are you running ethanol-enhanced gas in it, like the "regular" gas mostly sold today? The answer to that last question could be very important. Let me know.

[@Pirate-530]

I can only assume my carb is shot as I just burn black smoke like a diesel no matter which way I tune the carb

[@The13thSword]

That's entirely possible, depending on the age of the carb & when it was last rebuilt, if ever. It would also be more likely if you have completely gone through your ignition system & verified that all of it is functioning as it should be. A weak or malfunctioning ignition could be responsible for an incomplete burn of the fuel, which would also give you the "black smoke" symptom. How old are your spark plugs & how do they look?