Fixing a Toyota 22R That Will Not Idle

[@jimpoteet1]

good video, thanks... i`m a mechanic, and also have an `81 22r truck... it had same issue... what fixed it was re-wiring the 12 v to the idle cutoff solenoid... ( this involved the green multiplug shown in your video) long term exposure to the battery had corroded the contacts. after re-doing the wires involved, it idles fine now... no issues...

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Nice work!

[@mauricio5763]

🤔

[@gordontainsch2624]

Video is just what I needed to watch right now. Having a similar problem on my '82 Celica...stalls at idle...jerking running when letting off the gas. Had a good mechanic just look at it....fuel was dumping into the carb. Car has little over 200k on it...ran great until one day last year...a not so good mechanic I Paid $500. for a diagnosis gave me wrong info by saying it was the ECM. Now I have a good starting point on the real problem. If I can't fix it I will bring it back to the 'good' mechanic. Thanks for the video.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Good luck!

[@MrVandymann]

having this exact problem, did you ever figure out what the issue was? My next step is to replace the thermostat and possibly adjust the choke.

[@garydavis2265]

I had the same issue with my 82 4x4 ca model. The problem in my case was the ecm mounted on the kick panel,drivers sided. My son inlaw pulled it and resoldered the circuit board and it idled perfect ever since. Toyota doesn't make the ecm anymore so you're kinda on you own.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thank you for that info!! I'm no stranger to reflowing solder on boards. I have a few videos involving it.

[@tomboyd7109]

It seems to have been the dirt in the bowl. It's ALWAYS the dirt in the bowl. There is a bolt next to the sight glass that drains the bowl. If you operate the fuel pump with it open it will flush out most of the loose dirt and fix it for a few months or a year. Easy. I'm running mine exclusively on dirt roads.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Nice.

[@cyberburnzy]

Thanks for filming this. I used to have an 1988 22R. Just thinking that unless the key is in and turned to the pre start position that idle cutoff solenoid is blocking the passage and thus no passage of carb cleaner spray.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thanks for the info!!

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

Good too know thanks

[@RadioReprised]

This occurred on our 80 20R and it was the EGR valve at the back of the head randomly not seating closed due to carbon. Reving it or blowing air into it would let it seat again and run perfect.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Cool, thanks for the info!

[@conradmendosa1305]

Trying to help a buddy figure his out that won’t start. Great video man

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Glad I could help

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

I have a 88 and I did the same things you did 22r and I have changed a lot and rebuilt the carb

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

22r is a great engine.

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

Yes it is a great engine mainly now it has a lot of new parts lol

[@RicardoSoudens]

Thanks a lot.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Glad it helped

[@mattclark7748]

the yota whisperer

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Lol, more like Yota screamer because I may or may not have yelled at it a couple of times along the way.

[@kali4421]

@@ProjectTimeGarage 🤣💀

[@victorrosario4109]

Thank you for sharing. I haven't had that problem with my 1985 yet but it has 235 k so who knows , it can happen tomorrow. thanks

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

They are VERY tough trucks.

[@hidalgotravels]

I had mine running great after a long warm up. Took it out for a test and then the next day only starts fine, idles fine then suddenly sputters and dies! Any idea? Thanks!

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

So many things it could be.

[@mirikaipeters5209]

Could be solenoid issue similar to mine I wired it up to a spare solenoid for the old lpg converter I had on my 22r motor, I could toggle this issue with the use of the lpq-petrol switch on my dash however it’s giving me issues now and shuts off fuel when I stop accelerating even when switch is toggled so idle doesn’t shut off.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

[@kennethkittrell965]

Hey great video! I have a 1990 I replaced the carburetor because I don’t ha a warm place to rebuild mine till spring. (Little back story)I’ve had this truck 15 years I’ve worked on it and maintained it myself! It ran great till I let my friend drive it for a year then it would only high idle the about 4 years ago I parked it only starting once a month driving it around the block then parking it again! (Present day)I decided to start driving it again did some body work and then it wouldn’t start I did everything I could think of nothing worked i replaced the carb now it runs great but will not idle at all! Ideas?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Possible vacuum leak.

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Your a master with carbs! Looks like free is paying off big time!

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

LOL, free is good - and expensive!!

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

@@ProjectTimeGarage It usually is!

[@JamesKarne]

Hello! I hope you got my comment. You look same issue to my truck when I was rebuilding gasket and kit stuff for carburetor from eBay. I don’t know how much push idle mixture screw turn to tight like bottom out like 10 or 11 time clockwise to get tight same time like fast idle screw and go loose to 3 1/2 and 2 1/2 for fast idle. My truck is struggle to start up only I saw very tiny fuel come out of bowl. I found your KZbin suggest for my truck should be keep loose push back till gas start delivering. I check out a volt battery said 12.81 volt and 0.73 ohmn for electric automatic choke. I believe that is work as well. I can’t work outside is too cold for my truck start wait till warm day.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Good luck with your truck!

[@JamesKarne]

@@ProjectTimeGarage update i found out I was so misunderstood of fast idle screw. It was under the carburetor not fuel/air and fuel/mixture. Right now I got it where high idle got came from. You don’t need a timing at all?

[@JollyRoger150]

I Have an 86, It ran well for 5 years, I let it sit this winter, occasionally starting it up. I took it for a drive today and it ran good for about an hour, I went for a pretty hefty drive, and now for some reason it will Idle, and work with the throttle open 75% or more, with any less throttle just immediately choking right out, and if I am quick enough off the throttle, idle will save it from stalling. Have any idea what could cause this? It must be the carb because it sounds louder than it used to and it seems there is too much fuel in the sight glass. Maybe something clogged the main jet(s)? I am not too certain about carbs, you bet I will be researching it anyways in the meantime, thanks if you decide to reply.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

First thing is first, is it getting too much fuel, or not enough? You have to figure that out first. Easy way is to dribble a fuel source in the carb while it's running. Does it improve? If so, then it's not getting enough fuel and it's time to start looking at things like idle jets, etc. If giving it fuel makes it worse, then it's likely the needle/seat mechanism that's stuck open, causing the carb to flood and overflow.

[@JonathanYepez-wt3ij]

Why does won’t mine stay on in cold start? It turns off & I have to give it gas for a min for it to not turn off?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Sounds like a choke issue.

[@MartinSage]

Have same engine. Did you set the larger screw above the idle screw to 2.5 turns out (idle mixture screw). I suspect that's your problem as it's probably running too lean. I have 170,000mi and never had to rebuild carb. Runs like a new motor.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Yes, sure did. One of the major symptoms was that the mixture screw had no effect at all. In the video, I found the float bowls were full of what looked like sediment. The video ended with it being fixed and I actually mentioned that I was able to set the screw to 2.5 per my Toyota service manual.

[@senate2042]

Well you said "3.5 turns per manual" in the video. Did you end up getting a 20 dollar carb kit and cleaning it in the ultra sonic?

[@lunaticckc]

My 83 toyota has a problem, it bogs under load, the fuel filter is clean, the fuel pump is new, it just will not go above 40mph. It can idle and rev up as high as 5k but it will not go over 3k rpms in any gear

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Gotta be fuel or air. Check fuel first.

[@lunaticckc]

@@ProjectTimeGarage I'm assuming that it's my main jet at the bottom of the bowl. Because my fuel intake line to the bowl was clogged. So it just transfered debris to the main jet. I will blow it out or rebuild the carb entirely. There's just so many vaccume lines on the stock carb it's a pain

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

@@lunaticckc pull the top off and try to clean it. Worked for me.

[@hrpplant3928]

Try checking your secondary butterfly maybe it's not opening properly.

[@barryaugustine1298]

May be a carburetor mounting gaskets 2 or carburetor. Adjustment possibly,

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thanks!

[@dannylinc6247]

It's like fuels not available/ chokes not set/ fast idle speed not set? I can't see sheet. Then no view of the sight glass. But when you remove the carb top, you show us a low level exists in the float bowl. You can test the idle cut off solenoid, but you need to enable it. So, it sounds like you turned the idle screw out a third turn and then some. But had no mention of the fuel not even being near the bottom of the sight glass. If that carbs not the original, the installer may have done what makes carbs healthy for a starting point at the idle screw. If it won't run, you richen it, then more, then retest, repeat. 3 1/2 turns is surprising . I found other issues on the ones I worked on but everything was OEM still. I found hose issues and a diaphragm thingy leaking fuel into the distrib vac hose destroying the diaphragm in the advance. I sure wish our view of what you had going on to begin with was able to show the conditions at what temperature. What I've done with those is study a manual and compare to another. Learned something different from each one. Never stop learning. Stay positive.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Once I got all the sediment out of the bowls, the truck ran very well. I think the low level was a bit of an illusion. Once I took the floats out, and removed their displacement, the fuel level dropped. With the floats in, the level in the window was spot on. On the mixture screw, I did some Google-fu to figure out where to set it. The general consensus is that 3.5 turns is the place to start. Thanks for the comments!

[@jemetoumi7304]

Hello.. thanks for this videos nd thanks a lot for helping poeple fix their cars .. i have 4y engine nd same this carb i hv clean it up nd put it in the engine after rebuild the engine .. it starts very good .. but wen i want t drive i put the frst step of the gear nd give gas .. the car it takes a loots of gas so it produces black smoke (too much gas) then cant go ... im confused is it becos of the carb.. or i need to check the timing belt cos im not so sure its good or not ( sucpected).. please help .. im mobile veterinarian nd cant find good answer so i fix my car by my self.. thanks again

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Black smoke means too much fuel/not enough air. Your carburetor is the place to check.

[@stevenalizzi4314]

Got a holley 2 barrel on mine.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

I need to do that or a Weber.

[@replica4132]

I just found out you have a channel! I was the dude with the blue IROC-Z at the UTG meetup, thanks again for showing me that starion :)

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Yeah, I remember very well. That is one very clean IROC. May have to get with you at some point to do a video on it

[@wildfire365]

For the ideling is it controlled by that big copper screw above the mixture one.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Yes, it absolutely is. Mine had no effect though

[@docstockton5564]

The original Toyota carb is crap. Replace it with a Weber 32/36 DGEV and eliminate the fuel cut off solenoid.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Yeah, I'm going to go that route when I get started on the project "for real"

[@jasonhuerta7353]

I'm working with a friend on an 86 Toyota with a 22R. It has a rough idle and when I cover the top of the carb with my hand the engine RPMs keep climbing until I take my hand off of it. I have a few vacuum lines loos that I've been trying to track down on a vacuum diagram. Since it revs up when the top of the carb is closed off, is that a vacuum leak?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Most likely. When you cover the carb, you're restricting airflow, basically making the mixture richer. If you have vacuum leaks, start with capping all of them off and see if it runs better, then go through one by one tracking down where they go.

[@poolbob8776]

Pinch the air hose going to your distributor, if it idles up, the rubber diaphragm in your distributor cone has a hole in it. I figured that out by accident, and when I bought a rebuilt distributor, it had the same problem. I took it back and went to a different parts place, and got a good one. That may or may not be your problem. Good luck !

[@eastonlee5102]

Is it possible the carb just needed adjustment vs the cleaning? Shouldnt adjustment be the first troubleshot?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

I mentioned on the video that the adjustment screw had no effect, which is why I opened it up. It had lots of sediment. Cleaning worked then and is still working well 8 months later.

[@430guys4]

We need an update my 1981 Toyota does the same thing

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Oh, thanks for reminding me. Cleaning the bowls did fix my issue. It idles well now, plus cold starts are a TON better.

[@renodelossantos7089]

@@ProjectTimeGarage so u jus cleaned the bowl? That’s all it took to make it idle good again? Mine jus started doing this also

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

@@renodelossantos7089 Yes, that fixed mine.

[@mayajahn7372]

My 82 just started idleing hard and when I’m coasting to a stop will die. I can start it back up but needs me to keep the gas going for it not to die. It’s was completely warm when this fist happened, had been driving for 30 mins already and was great. But as soon as I started slowing down to get off the highway this happened. Would this possibly fix my issue?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Possibly. Sounds like it may be a lack of fuel delivery.

[@the_7th]

I had a similar issue with stalling when I had an '80 Toyota Pickup. It would die after coasting to a stop or after start up when warm. I would have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep the engine running. In my situation, that fuel cut solenoid on the carburetor (the solenoid that's pointed out in this video) is connected to an emissions computer on some models. This emissions computer (it's just a simple circuit board) is next to the driver's foot (a small rectangle box with a plug going to it). Mine had a bad ground connection to that computer because of the bad solder joints on the board. The solder joints end up having very small cracks over time from expansion of hot/cold weather. Just reheat the solder on the areas that have these cracks to fix the issue. What I ended up doing was just adding a wire from the negative terminal on the battery and spliced it into the negative that came off the solenoid. It ran fine after that. I'd recommend just fixing the solder joints though.

[@claystuckey4546]

I have an 87 that’s doing the same thing. Replaced the fuel pump bc it wouldnt start even when holding the throttle now it’ll start back up but only when you hold the throttle. Sometimes it’ll idle fine after restarting sometimes it’s a rough idle and sometimes you have to keep giving it throttle or it’ll stall. As well it only does it when it’s warm. Mostly dying when coasting or slowing down. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner on the vacuum lines and nothing happens I’ve sprayed carb cleaner through carb without pulling it apart. I know it isn’t doing much that way just thought I would try it. What should I look into. Also when it does this if you look into the bowls they’ll be fuel sitting in them.

[@the_7th]

@@claystuckey4546 look near the driver's side foot area. If you see a small rectangular box that says emissions computer, take the cover off and inspect the circuit board. The solder joints on it go bad (they develop cracks on the joints which cause intermittent connection of ground and power to the fuel cut off solenoid on the carburetor).

[@ropesealsandbabbittbearing1598]

Without searching your channel... What did time tell you?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

So far, so good on the carb. The truck runs well still. Other than the #4 cylinder starting to consume tons of oil and being low on compression now - Looks like an engine job is in its future. Yay me!

[@ropesealsandbabbittbearing1598]

@@ProjectTimeGarage I found my aap has a hole, causing my over rich condition. Thanks for the video!

[@randallwahl-kp4py]

Will this cause high blow by

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

No

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

It will start and run if I give it assistance and ideal just at first morning start after I touch the pedal it will die. It will not ideal I have to set there and feather the gas

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Is your choke working like it should?

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

@@ProjectTimeGarage I don’t think it is I drilled the rivets out and put screws in it so it can be adjusted but when I try too turn it ,it don’t

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

I think I’m going to spend the money and just get me a rebuilt one

[@justinfordyzf600r5]

Carburetor that is

[@buddhasvlogs1838]

I’ve got a 22r that starts but won’t stay running. What could be the problem?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Start with the fuel system. Eliminate the tank/lines and use a gas can for a quick test. Go from there.

[@AGhostInTheMachine]

@@ProjectTimeGarage I need to search for how to do the "use a gas can" thing. 22R engine that idles okay, but bogs down to nothing with any throttle. Worked fine when I parked/stored it in a garage a year ago. Any thoughts?

[@driftingmaster2248]

Thank you man

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

No problem

[@rickwatson7423]

That's the same carburator that's on a 1991 Isuzu pick up

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

I didn't know that. Cool

[@coretmanus4688]

I concur that is not a stock Toyota carb but looks like you did well getting it fixed. 👍

[@pastovasquez1858]

Great job. Boss

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thanks!!

[@eddywright7543]

Hey I have a 22r that is just barely failing Oregon DEQ - it is running slightly too rich. Which screw is the one I want to adjust?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

The idle mixture screw is on the passenger side, bottom of carb, in the center. Most of these have a cover on them that must be drilled out in order to access the screw. Do a lot of Googling first. Also, the screw doesn't have a typical slotted head, it looks like half a screw. makes it a pain to turn.

[@jsutton9142]

If it runs well enough I would adjust the screw that moves all you stuff out of Oregon before they require it to be electric.😊

[@TharsisOfficer]

@@jsutton9142 lol nice. I'll have to check on the idle mixture screw to the carb on my 22R on my '89 Pickup. It's been running rich and has a rough idle upon a cold start, though once getting on the highway and giving the engine plenty of RPMs the truck stops the rough idle upon getting to a stoplight / off a highway.

[@maryjolynnsteelman5875]

You Awesome

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thanks!

[@saviorbwalya6722]

Am in Zambia am wortcing

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Thank you!!

[@iiswegii9903]

i’ve got a 22r that at idle revs really high until it warms up. what could be the issue?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

All the carbureted cars/trucks have a "High Idle" adjustment on the carb. Basically when the carb is cold, the choke mechanism will turn a little cam on the linkage and put the carb in high idle. This high idle step has its own adjustment screw behind the carb. Look for the flat head screw and back it out a turn or so. Keep in mind that this is different than the main idle screw, which I think is phillips head. Also, you want the engine to idle a little higher when it's cold because the choke is on, and the mixture is going to be very rich. If the idle is too low, it will stall.

[@snaiper9851]

chang radoator

[@johnwalker9734]

Maybe you should have named this video trying to fix a 22R that won't idle.

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

I dunno, it's been idling great for over a year now.

[@daniellegibbs1156]

Low idal jet is plugged up

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Yep, idle jet for the win.

[@JonathanYepez-wt3ij]

Why won’t mine stay on in cold start? It turns off & I have to give it gas for a min for it to not turn off?

[@ProjectTimeGarage]

Sounds like a choke issue.

[@JonathanYepez-wt3ij]

@@ProjectTimeGarage thanks for the reply, you think the choke problem is causing the truck to shake a bit when it’s on?