Toyota Camry Driver Side Axle Removal / Install

[@mistercoffee100]

Dude your the man!! I struggled with this axle removal for a day and a half. Whithin a half hour of UPS delivering me the whale jaw vise grips - I had the axle off. THANKS so much for your video! Officially the whale jaws are called "Locking Plier, Large Jaw, 12" - and I ordered them thru Northern Tool @ $17.99. This was not one of Toyota's best designs. The manual kills me "carefully pry off the transaxle end" - typically "careful" and "pry" are not used in the same sentence...

[@carbonsteelbladetheorigina7993]

I was at work watching this video in 2013 at the shop I'm still currently working for. Helped me run that repair smoothly.

[@wheelsspinnin]

I just replaced the right side yesterday. I gave up on the left side as I couldn't make sense of the repair manual's instructions for separating the axle from the diff. Thanks for clearing it up! Now I get to buy a new tool! :)

[@rdd123456]

Sir, you are "The Man"! Thanks for the video! Fixin' the wifes car. Bought a slide hammer with a "univeral CV joint puller" Didn't work. Frustrated, did a google search and found this video. Went to NAPA that night and bought a pair of the large jaw vise-grips. Next night, after work, had the job all done! Thanks again. Doug D.

[@Kowyn]

Pro tip: Hit the side where the tie rod where the bolt passes through the cast part of the spindle assembly, a few good strikes and it will pop out and you won't rip you rubber boot. if it's suborn get a bigger hammer lol. Very nice video Wes, quick simple and to the point.

[@twotwentyswift]

Great job Wes. Your tips have probably saved alot of people a ton of time and aggravation. Now I'm going to go change my front axle seal.

[@danstrunk8828]

got stumped trying to the inner part of the axle out of the differential housing even using the Harbor Freight pliers, finally cut the inner boot off and I was able to get to a big enough lip on the axle hub to use a large chisel and drive the axle out, even with the struggling, which was mostly my fault, the video was a tremendous help thanks a lot

[@sunburntcurt]

Great video, Wes, thanks. I've never done a lick of work on a car's suspension and this was all I needed to guide me along. I didn't have a whale-jaw vice grip, so used a gigantic pipe wrench. Worked the same, though. The axle came right out after a couple pops. Hardest part was breaking all the nuts and bolts loose, even with an electric impact wrench and a can of WD-40. They'd never been loosened before in the car's 20-year-life, half of which was on the salted winter roads of Wisconsin.

[@condor5635]

Great video and thanks. I saw someone else remove the 2 strut bolts and nuts on the top instead of the bottom one like you did. It appears your technique works much better allowing the whole assembly to rotate out of the way which appears much easier to get the axle out. Also like your idea instead of prying against the part to get it to release.Great job!

[@Etsutt]

Thanks for the response, I removed a couple things in the way, lined it up completely straight and gave it a few taps with a rubber mallet, slid right in. Now on to the passenger side. Thanks so much for your videos!

[@chyna491]

You did a awesome job...My husband had problem taking th axle out because of the end snap...But after watching the video we figured it out...Thanks a lot...I save as a favorite...

[@raylegrone9473]

Hi Wes, I just got through watching your video on a 92 Camry. And I seen how you got the driver's side axle out with a pair of large jaw vise grips. You see my 96 Camry is in the same predicament. Me and my uncle tried it with some many pry bars and it still won't come. When I watched your video on this one and I said I have got to get me a pair of those vise grips. But my cousin ordered me a pair just like yours and it is coming Monday. Thanks Wes for this awesome video.

[@spitzerone]

Great video fast without too much talking showing the major points. Thanks Wes.

[@billyvanhorn7290]

Just wanna say thank you. Bf and i having a hell of a time and your way worked great

[@GOPSpinMachineInOD]

thanks for postin this. I just did my 98 Corolla Left Cv shaft. The corolla has the trammy rez on the left side ( automatic trans), but was able to use a pry bar and get out the CV axle.I would stress to anyone trying this that a pickle fork is an absolute must as i tried without one and ended up damaging the boot, so i had to add $40 for a new ball joint..total for new CV $115 in parts..

[@lineman453]

Just completed my shaft replacement,my shaft seperated at the inner joint let me tell you it was a buger to get out.thanks for the video

[@robertvanderbaan3722]

This was an excellent way to remove the axle. Nothing short of it. I highly recommend using this method.

[@makeitubE]

Some jerk dumped a heap of huge metal chunks on the highway. It was pitch black with no street lights and I plowed right through it. Turns out my inner CV boot is busted on the front driver side. Mines an 07, and I'm mentally preparing myself. It seems the process isn't too different from this video. Good post, and thanks for sharing.

[@wbass79]

@MJL7645 you are correct with the axle nut. if your rim type allows clearance of the socket..if it doesn't i usuall have someone step on the brakes while i torque it to the proper spec to prevent premature bearing fatigue. when i first attempted this years ago, i did go for the 2 strut bolts. it didn't give enough clearence to remove the cv axle..so i had to disconnect the ball joint... it's not that bad at all on the toyotas...it is an assembly with 2 nuts and one bolt.

[@nickoli9889]

Cool, passenger side is harder to get at though. From the top of the engine, I put the handle end of a metal Louisville Slugger in the notch and proceeded to beat the crap out of the other end with a brick. Came off in 1 min. I'm sure any pipe/lumber long enough would do, but the bat has a nice lip that interfaces with the notches

[@plmkdt528]

Thanks for replied back . I have 6 cylinder , so that mean I have to take all apart again . Thanks again

[@homernlani]

@wbass79 thanks for sharing your video, I followed your video and it helped me remove the cv joint assembly, but those 3 balljoint nuts and bolt on the lower arm are not walk in the park to remove. Thanks again

[@wbass79]

glad it helped. i was using a chicago electric impact. it was from harbor frieght. they go on sale every once in a while for under $40

[@wbass79]

good to know there is another way to do it. just be careful prying against the trans/differential...there is a possibility of cracking the case if too much force is applied. thanks for watching.

[@ZFISHTANK]

Just wanted to say thank you for this video it is a useful reference tool had to replace my cv axel last year then again just now after the boot tore.

[@TJJewett]

yes, it does, thank you. i actually got all that off with the breaker bar. now i'm just having trouble getting the old axle out. I don't have the whale jaw vice grips that you do, so i've been at it with a small pry bar... i ended up bending the pry bar (it was a real cheap-o) i'm gonna go at it today with a pilot bearing puller. i think, if I can line it up right, i can use the separating action of the tips to push theshaft out of the transmission.

[@dntlss]

hey thanks for your nice reply,well i work in a machine shop so i deal with air tools every day but ive never had a electric one, i ended up buying one at harbor freight and it works ok, i wont use it but maybe 3 times a year so i didn't wanna spend too much money on it plus i don't have a compressor,the bearing was on a Camry that belongs to a friend of mine, it ended up being a bulge in the tire that was making the noise so i didn't get to enjoy busting my knuckles this time, maybe next time.

[@wbass79]

@ncrdisabled yeah i think northern tool has a bunch of free shipping deals around the holidays. from the sound of what you described to me, the thing in the book is either for a 6 cylinder, or an older model...a lot of 6 cyliders have that style of cv shaft.

[@cruzmontesinos]

Buddy, you are a blessing, I wish you the best and thank you for taking the innitative to show this video, it helps a lot God bless you!!!! Thank you

[@HuskyCloud9]

Wow dedication. This guy pulls his perfectly good cv to show you how to do it. Thanks for this. What year is the car?

[@wbass79]

the impact wrench is not needed. if you have a rim that lets you access the axle nut, you can bust it loose while the wheel is still on the vehicle, the wheel is in contact with the ground and the full weight of the car is on it's wheels. i've read that you can have an assistant step and hold on the brakes while you are turning the axle nut (to prevent the wheel from turning), but i'm not sure there would be enough stopping force from the brakes if the nut is really rusted on. hope that helps.

[@zfreak1981]

5 stars all they bro. Very nicely done. Keep up the good work bud.

[@wbass79]

hmmm...the only thing i could think of is maybe have someome assist you by using a small flat pry bar (prying the axle out against the trans/differential case) while you're still trying the hammer/vicegrip technique.... it might be pretty tight with all those hands in there....let me know if that works. thanks for watching.

[@chevinbarghest8453]

If it works it works ! I love making simple alternative tools if they work... I made a simple tool to take the pressure off the drive belt on my Deere lawn tractor snow blower and now I can remove the belt one finger...Very satisfying.. I will get a whale jaw tool just in case !

[@wbass79]

that sucks!! i haven't done a CV axle on a 07 yet. hopefully toyota corrected the overly aggressive inner-retainer ring by 07, and you won't have to work as hard getting it out and the new one in. good luck with your repair and thanks for watching!

[@CaptLongJohnson]

Try turning the axle while prying and by prying I mean tapping it. It should come out easy when you get them lined up right. Be careful not to eff up your seals..

[@wbass79]

cool...glad you got it in. good luck with the other side and thanks for watching!

[@wbass79]

i picked them up @ Menards. i'm not sure what area you live in, but Menards is a chain home improvement store in the upper midwest, just like Home Depot or Lowes....if i come across them anywhere else i'll let you know

[@Rampage00769]

Great tips, but shouldn't a torque wrench have been used on re-installing the suspension parts, and axel nut?

[@wbass79]

@caspar37 if you are talking about the right-side (passenger side)...the part only costs about $65.... as far as the time..it can go pretty quick or take a long time. if they use salt on your roadways, it can be pretty involved....about 1-2 hours... if they don't and you can pop the bearing out of the motormount housing, you could be done in 30 min....

[@krazygurl579]

Great video! we need more videos on these older 1st and 2nd generation Toyota Camrys please! Do you have a video for the passenger side axle removal and install? If not can you do one ASAP please? Thanks!

[@wbass79]

I haven't removed a CV shaft on a manual trans car, but there should be a differential on the manual trans as well. The differential takes trans fluid, but has a totally separate fluid supply from the trans....i would double check everything with a Chiltons or Haynes manual....Hope that helps.

[@TheRaiderbid]

Kick ass videos Wes! To the point and good camera work...thanks for sharing.

[@wbass79]

@irobiieray hi, passenger side axles are held in by a set bolt and a retaining clip on the motor mount for the mid-shaft bearing. the driver's side is held in by a recessed ring clip in the differential. on most cars, you can pull the driver's side axle out by hand or use a small pry bar...camrys are different...they usually require a lot more force to get in and out. thanks for watching.

[@wbass79]

@Stillvip187 if you are talking about the differential oil,.it takes transmission oil. there is a 17mm bolt on the back of the trans (facing the firewall).get the car up in the air, but level. remove the bolt, drop some tubing down from the top side of the the engine,go back under the car and place the tubing in the hole. attach the tubing on the top-side to a funnel or syringe. place a drip pan under the trans/differential. fill the differential resivoir until it overflows. thanks for watching.

[@wbass79]

@duBobSundance sounds like that is your problem. if you get the wheels off the ground, put it in neutral, turn the wheel then you should be able to spin the tire by hand to try to reproduce the noise. you should be able to pin point it then. but my guess is that you do have a bad cv joint.

[@hayksamvelyan]

Good guy Wesley - takes out his good CV axle just to show you how it's done.

[@wbass79]

@ncrdisabled i knew they changed the design. the car i was showing this on was a 92. the design stayed the same into the 2000's. there is a better tool to separated the tie-rod end. if you go to the parts store..get the "free" rental pitman arm kit. the smaller of the c-shaped pullers works great and it doesn't wreck the boot. thanks

[@frankcoates4639]

On my 2003, I couldn’t get vice grips in position. Ultimately I wound up pulling the axle assembly out leaving the casing and stub still in. I then had to remove the strut. I gripped the pliers on the end of the casing and then wire and a slide hammer to pop it out.

[@angelberthoteroful]

Dude you're a good mechanic!

[@wbass79]

@sparkyfox21 hi, i'm not sure....but it sounds like you are talking about moving the lower control arm (the lower ball joint is attached to it)...if that is the case....get a 2-3 foot peice of 1/2" water or black pipe, stick the end of the pipe into one of the circular holes that is cut out of the lower control arm and press down on the pipe(i do this @ 2:01 on the vid w the end of my breaker bar). that should give u enough leverage to manipulate it. hope that helps. thanks for watching.

[@wbass79]

hi, yes there is a seal on both sides of the trans where the cv shafts are. the seals are about $7 each. parts stores usually list it as a transmission seal. most likely it is the seal that failed. you have a 4 cylinder?

[@ut2usr2]

Great work - clear and easy to see and follow instruction. Much thanks.

[@philliplim2467]

While waiting for the Vise Grip 12L3 whale jaw to arrive, I it occurred to me use a muffler clamp as the problem for me was more of not having a perch I could set a screwdriver/tool/steel bar on (this was machined with a bevel rather than a 90 step). Not, finding a 3.5" muffler clamps at auto parts store, I ended up buying a $2 2.5" U bolt pipe clamp at Home Depot, which I installed over the CV. Pop pop, Half shaft out (actually, I went from the top and popped it out with a crow bar; adding a wood spacer for the 2nd pop). Fantastic! I now also have a new $20 tool that I won't have to abuse/ hammer on... Of course, the U bolt clamp size will depend on the diameter of your specific CV (Don't assume from the make/model/year that the diameter will not vary).o

[@UnGaLiEAViblE]

I have a 1985 camry is it still the same? I have never done one of these before and my tools are limited, Im doing it myself to save money and im trying to decide if i can pull it off. Very helpful video. Thanks

[@wbass79]

@MJL7645 overtightening the axle nut will not separate the cv axle from the transmission on the camry....there is not free space for the splines to slide through the wheel hub. it will bottom out before that, when the cv joint is up against the back of the hub assembly....overtightening could put too much pressure on the wheel hub. pulling on the axle will not work either...it will just separate the cv joints, but leave part of the axle in the trans... thanks for watching

[@wbass79]

the internal spring clip gets compressed by the splines on the differential. for most cars, it doesn't take much force, but for some reason, these camrys require a lot of force.

[@wbass79]

@speck444 i felt your pain the first time i attempted to do the passenger side...glad the other video helped. thanks for wathching

[@tadams39]

very good video, love the details you provided. question... i have a 95 toy Camry and im having both axles done by a "backyard" mechanic, how long should the job take to complete? he's been working on it for three days now. I'm thinking he damaged my transmission an isn't ready to let me know. he wont answer phone either.

[@fflynnful]

Good info. I am replacing the engine and transaxle in a 98 camry. The axles need to come out. You were hammering on something to remove the axle. I assume you were hammering on the side of the vice grips to free the inside end of the axle, is that correct? Thanks again for some really good info!

[@wbass79]

good luck with your repair. and thanks for watching!

[@MiLoTi85]

you make everything so easy dude awsome video...thanks for the help.

[@twowheelinjay]

Well this is a great video to teach first timers how to change CV axles, but the 1995 and up Camry V6 axles bolt in with hex head style bolts. Great video though!!

[@wbass79]

hi, it was a 1992 or 1993...cant remember...but your avalon is a bit different, you have a 6 cylinder...so i believe your cv shafts are bolt-on types. hope that helps. thanks for watching.

[@gmoney0823]

great vid. also quick question... would this installation be the same for a 92 lexus es300 which is basically built on the same platform as the camry??

[@wbass79]

the seals are on both sides of the transmission/differential where the CV shafts exit. when you look at them before you install the new axles, just make sure there is no rust/debris on them. you can use a rag..no need for special cleaner. throwing a little grease on the seal isn't a bad idea either. i like doing that just so the new CV shaft slides right in. good luck and thanks for watching.

[@wbass79]

that is normal. there is a seal that keeps the oil in your differential/transmission when the axle is in place. once you get the axle out, there is nothing to stop the oil from coming out. when you have everything apart, you should inspect and replace the seal if necessary. to check the level of the differential fluid, there is a 17mm bolt/plug on the back of the transmission. take that out, and fill with trans fluid until it overflows the fill hole. then replace the plug.

[@troubleshooting703]

I like your video. That looks like a Harbor Freight Impact Wrench. Can you tell me does it have the necessary torque to help me in my transmission removal? Thanks!

[@wbass79]

@bushhawgsinger hi. i have not done one on an 89 camry....i just looked up the part online for your vehicle...it looks to be the same set-up with the snap-ring locking into the differential/transmission... so i will say i'm 95% sure it is the same...thanks for watching...

[@wbass79]

@tuan16582 i believe it is different with the V6. the half-shafts should be a "bolt-on" style and the axles should be the same (driver's side and pass side). good luck and thanks for watching.

[@conmanumber1]

hi frm new zealand i just undo bolts on brake calipers and strut then swing out and pull away disc rotor but never undo tie rod....saves heaps of time. always put in 80% more grease in joints as new joints come undernourished. also do a new wheel alignment.

[@Omri617]

Hi Great video , but one thing : what about Greazing the axle? im about to install a left axle for my 205 gti and i dont know how to Greaz it.. thanks!!

[@wbass79]

@lineman453 glad you were able to complete the job. thanks for watching.

[@wbass79]

cool. glad it helped out. i went through the same thing the 1st time i tried it. thanks for watching!

[@wbass79]

hi, i believe your axle on the v6 is a bit different...yours might be a straight bolt-on type. thanks for watching.

[@krazygurl579]

Hi again Wes! I see on OReilly's auto they sell 2 dirfferent lifetime warranty shafts: one is Master Pro rebuilt CV Axle shafts and the other is Import Direct New Axles Shafts which are about $20 more. Problem with the new import direct cv Axles shafts is that on the driver side the part that has the nipples on the older OEM shaft (the part you use the wheel vise grips on to catch on the shaft to remove it and re-install it) are not present or there on the new import direct, but instead has a smooth housing. My question is: How does a person remove and re-install these types of smooth cv axle shafts, considering they are smooth and there are no grooves or nipples to clamp onto with grips or a lever bar? Is there a special tool for this application? Thanks again for all your help and the great Videos! Do you have any videos of how to remove and install the wheel bearings on these older 1988 -1991 2nd generation Toyota Camry's? Same Question regarding removing and replacing the lower control arms and tie rod ends, both outer and inner? Keep the great videos coming!

[@wbass79]

couple questions...have you done a brake job recently? are you having any problems braking?

[@wbass79]

glad it helped! thanks for watching!

[@sambody8711]

This video would have helped me way more if I hadn't been so stubborn at first and tried to do it without the whale jaw vice grips. I tried various crow bars and pry bars for hours and gave up. So the next day I broke down and got a pair of large jaw vice grips and I was done in less than an hour.

[@ncrdisabled]

Where did you buy the big vise grip I looked in Harbor fraight , sear lowes and ace hardware no one had the kind you used in taking it out and putting it back. Thanks

[@dntlss]

that's a cool impact gun,electric too,they sure come in handy,how do they compare to a pneumatic one? i gotta do this Sunday but im just doing the wheel bearing,done it before on a Honda but i figure since i gotta do it on a Camry i just brush up a bit on this great video on how to get some of the stuff off,i can figure out the rest, thank you for posting!!!

[@techgood]

dude, thanks a lots for this - I have to work on my cousin s camry - thanks again - very informative

[@memphistenn77]

DUDE YOUR THE BEST!!!! THANKS A LOT!!!!

[@wbass79]

awesome! glad it helped and thanks for watching!

[@wbass79]

@caspar37 the wheel hub bearing assembly price for the part sounds pretty close..but 3 hours labor sounds a bit long....usually those can be done in less than an hour...but i havn't done a prizm yet... judging by just looking at the part for your car, it should be very similar to the driver's side axle vid i have posted... there doesn't appear to be a mid-shaft bearing for yours...that should eliminate some work, shouldn't be too bad...but again...i've never replaced either on a prizm...

[@Flassh81]

Need to do this for my wifes car. What do you mean by clean up that seal? where is it? Just with a clean rag or cloth? with a chemical cleaner?

[@steveduquette5859]

I watched this video so i could get all the sizes of the sockets and stuff and i figured ahh this will be a joke because a lot of these video's the people don't even know the names of the parts and stuff like that and i was going to poke fun at them..lol.. but i can see this guy knows his shit and i'm glad he said the size's of the sockets cause 90% of these idiots don't tell you. So i am giving you a thumbs up, you seem like a smart guy and i got the sizes that i needed so thanks for the video.. Oh bpurdy are you on fb so i can add you as a friend in case i have any question's on any cars in the future?

[@hvrtguys]

Comfort tip. If you put down a sheet of blue Styrofoam insulation it becomes comfortable to lay on concrete ( especially when it is cold out ).

[@wbass79]

driver's side should take about 45 min. the passenger side can take me up to 2 hours, depending on how bad the bearing is seized into the mount. hopefully nothing got wrecked and you get your car back soon! thanks for watching.

[@kiko1822]

hi exelent info, i have a question, is it normal that when replacing an axle it start licking gear oil, i didnt see that it happened to u, thank u

[@FonkyOG]

If anyone does have issues with large jaw type vice grips, as long as you have a medium sized pry bar, say 30cm, you can angle the bar behind the inner CV housing and just pry it out. I was trying the way shown in the video and couldn't overcome snap-ring. As long as your differential housing isn't about to rust out, you can use a fair bit of force and it pops out. Seemed to be less effort than vice grips and hammer.

[@JustLikeGreta]

No way, on a car this old those axles seized in there. In can require a puller and/or impact tools. This guy was lucky he could do it with those pliers.

[@ivan8599]

Hi I have a question, Did you put a new snap ring, when you put back the axle? thank you very much!

[@wbass79]

cool. hope the job goes smooth for you once you get the vice grips.

[@jaimesalinas3404]

Is there any other way taking the cv axle with out taking off the 3 bottom screws????

[@wbass79]

you could try separating the strut from the knuckle...that works good w GM vehicles...

[@rayjustin12]

Thanks for making the video, it's going to help a lot.

[@wbass79]

hi, i just looked up the parts for the 92 lexus to double check... those parts appear to be "bolt-on" type rather than the "set-in"/snap-ring type. i'll try to do a little more research to find something that might help you out....thanks for watching

[@wbass79]

@evilmatchbox the ball joint will re-seat with tightening the castle nut (either impact or other method). that was a junked car...the only thing i was salvageing from it was the engine and trans....just using it for demonstration

[@Eeropolvasti]

Good Job ! What year was this Camry?? Is it same in 2006?? And, what is torque on drive shaft nut??? Thanks, youtheman =)

[@wbass79]

@auron21 i found them @ Northern Tool. They were Irwin Vise-Grip Large Jaw Locking Pliers - 12in. Length, Model# 12L3-12LC. hope that helps.