Toyota Engine 2AZ-FE

[@Wes_5kyph1]

436,000 miles and going on my 2AZ-FE 2009 toyota camry.

[@Wes_5kyph1]

@Frank. T No it has not been rebuilt: original engine and trans. The oil burning is minimal.

[@Wes_5kyph1]

@Frank. T When it was around 250k miles, it was burning oil bad. I fixed it by modifying the pcv to increase vacuum to the engine. This increased efficiency and significantly lowered blowby. Another easy thing to do 2 or 3 times a year right before an oil change, spray a whole can of WD-40 into the crankcase while it idles, then let it idle 20 min. Works wonders for cleaning the valves.

[@Wes_5kyph1]

@Frank. T 1 way of doing it & probably the simplest, For the PCV: find the pcv-valve, follow the pcv-hose to other end & unplug hose from vacuum port on intake-manifold [the sucking side] & plug/block vacuum port with a vacuum cap or hose-putty, etc. leave the hose hanging or take it off, it doesn't matter; won't hurt anything; leave the pcv-valve alone; start engine to test; engine might sound a little 'better'; slightly lower idle rpm possibly; test drive; should notice a lil more power too. [should not make any check engine lights] for the wd40 flush [before oil change only] spray a can into crankcase (same place you add oil) while engine on. then let idle for 20 min. i do this in parking-lot at the shop before oil change because you don't want to drive car far with wd40 in there

[@eliasc4924]

I have a 2009 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine. This engine began to burn oil at 90K miles. I had the valves, piston, and it’s rings replaced and it runs like new with no oil consumption. At no cost to me by Toyota. It now has 151,000 miles and runs perfect. Routine maintenance is the key to long engine life and performance.

[@markosedlarik9553]

How long they do repair under warranty?

[@LauraBronson]

Thanks for your videos. I have been trying to decide between a 2012 Toyota RAV4 with a V6 (2GR-FE) or the 4 cylinder (2AZ-FE) engine, and your videos were very informative. I was concerned about the oil problems with the 4 cyl, but I quickly realised that the V6 is a much more expensive engine to repair because its harder to access. I spoke to my local mechanic, and he said the same repair (water pump used as example) would be $500 on the 4 cyl, but $3000 on the V6 because the V6 was so much more difficult to work on. So while I was a bit worried about the 2AZ-FE engine, after watching this video I feel like it is a much safer option and cheaper to repair in the long run. Thank you!!

[@bobbarker3248]

I don't know if I'm lucky, but I have two Camry's with a 2AZ-FE, and none of them have given me much trouble with oil burning. They do burn oil, but not enough that I have to check and add oil between oil changes. I do oil changes once a year.

[@nwsights6301]

Same here we must be lucky, between 5k oil changes my doesn't even burn a quart of oil barely any, quite amazing engines a lot of pep for a 4 cylinder

[@Integrity.is.everything]

*A lot of ppl were screwed over by this engine. Notorious for overheating and stripping the rear head bolts. Should have been recalled*

[@chrismemphis8062]

100%. I've experienced this at 101k.

[@malamri424]

i can vow for the reliability of this engine. I had one on low boost back in 2007 with stock fuel system and a bad AFR and this engine was daily driven for 2 years.

[@NoKnockaKnee]

362,000 miles on my Camry, now I'm rebuilding!

[@alisaleh2509]

What year is ur camry any oil burning ?

[@NoKnockaKnee]

Ali Saleh 2003

[@NoKnockaKnee]

Ali Saleh and yes it was burning lots of oil at 362,000 miles. But that was purely due to worn piston rings.

[@christophervanzetta]

@@NoKnockaKnee A vehicle doesn't burn oil unless the PCV wasn't replaced. That pressure has to escape somewhere!

[@Wes_5kyph1]

How'd the rebuild go? I'm driving an '09 camry with 436k miles and haven't considered rebuilding yet. Modifying the pcv helped the oil-consumption a lot tho

[@Saku19]

I have a 2AZ-FE in my 2009 Toyota Matrix S, I love it.

[@Idk-bs6in]

I hate mine, oil burning garbage

[@master6435]

@@Idk-bs6in how many mile does it burn oil mine burn 1qt every 1000 mile

[@Idk-bs6in]

@@master6435 5 qt every 600 miles

[@master6435]

@@Idk-bs6in dammm how many mile does the car have and year?

[@Idk-bs6in]

@@master6435 10 yr, and had ~150k miles when I bought Now ~190k miles

[@michaelbarry8005]

In addition to the oil burning issue, I have personally witnessed and additionally heard of many problems with stripped threads in block for the rear head bolts.

[@seanv1556]

Lol many problems, like how many out of the MILLIONS of this engine produced.. Why don't you think a little instead of just saying whatever you're thinking.

[@michaelbarry8005]

Sorry, I don't have the stats you request. Regarding saying vs. thinking, I try to strike a tasteful balance, but thank you for revealing that I don't always succeed in that effort. kzbin.info?search_query=2azfe+head+bolt+repair

[@yukonstriker1703]

@@seanv1556 Why are you denying the obvious? Oil consumption due to bad ring design and stripped head bolts.

[@JazzyJonas]

I have an '09 Matrix with this engine and, other than having to add oil all the time, it runs great! No fault codes, cat, o2 sensors, everything is fine. 175k.

[@richardmorse5307]

I have a 2007 Matrix and had the timing chain cover removed and resealed. This was also done to the oil pan. I believe the tech at Toyota removed the engine to get at the timing chain cover. It’s an expensive repair but only uses a small amount of oil between changes now. Mine has the 1.8 liter engine.

[@AutOdometer]

I have one of these in a 2004 Toyota Camry LE that I just bought from Copart. Copart claimed it Ran and Drove when it arrived at their facility. When I bought it, it cranks but does not start. I changed fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, air filter, battery, and still doesnt start. Still cranks and doesn't start. I took off the valve cover and noticed that the timing chain had three gold links. Two of the links were closer together and from what I am reading should match up on the intake and exhaust cam sprockets when valve farthest to the left is top dead center. The gold links are about 2-3 chain links off of where they should be. Does these mean that the chain jumped a little and this could cause the car not to start?

[@markreynolds3850]

👍thanks for your opinion , I agree with you. I think it good engine. But requires to have clean oil , regular maintenance.

[@JohnnyTyrone77]

I have an '09 Toyota Matrix w/150,000 miles on the 2.4liter engine...I change the oil every 3,000 miles and it uses a little less than a quart of oil every 1500 miles. Doesn't bother me because I think once any engine reaches 100,000 miles the oil and water should be checked at least once a month anyway...Great reliable strong engine! Adding a little oil once every other month is cheaper than rebuilding an engine!

[@classicrocker81]

My 2003 Camry had the 2AZFE. Great reliable motor and I got lucky with mine.. It burned less than a quart every oil change so I wasn’t concerned about it. Glad I sold it for my Tacoma though

[@MarzNet256]

Love the channel! These engines are rock solid. I have the smaller 1.8L 130hp 1ZZ-FE engine (2006 Matrix 4WD) with 127k miles. Super reliable engine. Starts every time and purrs like a kitten. I change oil myself every 6-7k using mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 with oem filter (cost me under $30). The OCI is 5k but I change it as soon as the golden brown color starts to show signs of turning black (on a rag). My recent oil consumption test result: Uses 0.25 qt of oil every 6k miles. I love this car! Oh, and for $15 on Amazon I got a TecBoss bluetooth fm transmitter which plugs into lighter plug inside center console-out of sight. With my windsheild mount, android phone, google maps, and spotify I have better Nav/Entertainment tech than most new cars. Plus its easily upgradable.

[@TheDrearyveil]

European 2.4 VVT-i engines are mostly made in Japan. No problems at all. Unfortunately it seems many of the oil cunsuming 2AZ-FE engines were made in the Kentucky plant. Same thing with the Honda 1.8 liter petrol engine, most of the cars sold in the European market had engines that were made in Japan (actually many of the cars were made in Japan altogether), no problems whatsoever. And the 2006-2009 cylinder head breaking 1.8 engine sold in the US was made.... drumroll... In the US! But of course there are healthy, well-maintained and reasonably reliable cars in the troublesome model years also. Maintenance is the key, for example: change oil and filter every 6k miles or 10k kilometers. There are owners who have passed 150k-200k miles without major incidents with the troubled Toyota models with careful, proactive maintenance.

[@CesarNunes18]

What year would be the Good ones ?

[@billgriner3754]

09 Scion TC with this engine, I've thought about just changing the filter once a year with the amount of oil I'm putting in it. I'm at almost 180K and still runs and drives great so I can't complain a whole lot.

[@tC.Kelvin]

I have a 07 tC and i’m hearing a rattle noise, I changed out my belt tensioner but the noise is still there can it be my water pump or my timing chain I can’t quite pinpoint where the noise is coming from

[@philipcanada78]

2011 xb here, got it new , car is now 11 yrs old , 230k on the clock , yes it takes half liter of oil every 5 thousand kms , other than that , no issues at all , the car park outside in Canadian winter for a decade and crank up everytime , only time it won't start was because the battery in the fob was done , cost me 3 dollars and that was it. starter , alternater , plugs , everything from factory , still drive smooth like butter , this is the most reliable engine I have ever owned .

[@johnfarr5415]

2006 Scion TC here and the engine runs great...but the oil consumption is real. I have to put a quart in every 500 miles. Yes a full quart every 500 miles. Interestingly there is ZERO smoke coming out the tailpipe, I'd love to know where all that oil is going. Of note...my TC has 208k miles on it.

[@christophervanzetta]

Change the PCV bro!!

[@christophervanzetta]

The culprit is a clogged/sticking PCV. Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Excessive oil consumption and leak. As the gasoline ignites, it causes an expansion of force that needs to be removed from the crankcase. A PCV is used for this purpose. As carbon and oil builds up the PCV becomes clogged and/or sticks, thus, leading to POOR ventilation of combustion pressure. This then has to escape somewhere else and it's usually THROUGH the piston rings as THAT is where the combustion occurs! I've read numerous reports on this issue and the many people I have spoken to NEVER replaced their PCV (Positive Crankcase Valve) which makes sense as to WHY their engines are burning oil more than necessary. The lack of knowledge is understandable as I don't expect everyone to take the time to understand fully how a vehicle and all of its systems work but I have done years of research and reading books to expand my knowledge of vehicles. The longer you run the engine without addressing this critical issue, the more problems you are going to create!

[@taton5]

Replaced my pcv but its still 1 quart every 1000 miles

[@chrishaylett3532]

Same year make model 243k zero oil consumption. Great engine.

[@davesmith699]

I have one with 300000 and its going great. I never see them burning oil here in australia and its 2007 also.

[@adeyzas]

Same like my 05 Ipsum engine with less headche and low maintanence cost even the mileage now reached 240k km.

[@gnagdogg21]

@Toyota Maintenance, I have a 2AZ FE in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with a manual 5 speed transmission. I purchased it in September of 2021. It had 99k miles on it at the time. I have changed the oil regularly every 3-4 thousand miles. I had heard a lot about the piston rings and the drain holes being to small or something so it can cause blow-by and build up carbon sludge on the piston rings. It was not using much if any oil until the last oil change I only got 2.5 quarts out and it holds 4.5. I had started using almost a quart of Marvel Mystery oil with the remainder being 0w20 full synthetic valvoline high mileage. If I stop using the MMO, will this help or have I now made things potentially worse by using the additive? Since my last change (which yes, I kept using MMO in) it has used about 1/2 quart over the first 500 miles. Any advice would be welcomed.

[@mixter7x7]

1 - Stop using MMO . It's an ultra thin oil that will thin the base lubricant and cause it to burn away more quickly. 2 - There are 2 parts to the actual solution : 1 - The 2AZ FE is rated for 0W 20 in winter and 5W 20 during summer. You should run the 5W 20 all year long. 2 - The bad news is --- You just have to check / refill your oil about every thousand miles. The lower your oil gets - the hotter the oil gets - the faster it will burn. My wife has an oil burning 2.4 that uses about 2 quarts in 5K. I do 5k oil changes. I check and service her oil about every thousand miles with 5W 20. It rarely goes below 1/2 quart down.

[@JSabh]

The rebuild kit with new pistons, rings ect is only 250 to 300$$. Buy the kit and rebuild the engine with the new and better parts, she will pur for a long time. Rebuild it every 120,000 or so and call it good. I have 3 rebuild kits waiting and two engines to swap out at 120,000. Gives you lots of time to rebuild the other engine and by that point, you can do it with your eyes closed. Also, have a spare trans waiting just in case and change out the steering rack/ power steering pump at the 120,00 make as well just to b safe. Stay on top of ball joints and control arms as well. It will run forever.

[@seanpop2886]

While shopping for an older Toyota, I reviewed dozens of cars' service records... 2AZ-FE cars (RAV4, Highlander) showed up with oil consumption test failures. One even was noted as being "off the stick" and another was 2.5 quarts low. Among all the other things that I want to avoid (incomplete records, multiple previous owners, infrequent oil changes, etc.), unfixed oil consumption issues and the head bolts not being checked are two more disqualifiers. ☹️

[@aungwin1013]

I have 2004 Camry with 250K miles on it . No oil burn, only like 1/2 of qt every 3k mile . Which is nothing at this age. I have little oil leak from timing cover and at morning start , I have little blue smoke which mean valve stem seal is little worn out . I change oil every 3k and Tran oil every year . Lose head bolt is due to heat. If some one always rump up the engine rpm to read zone to race or engine heat up due to radiator failure , then it will cost the head bolt problem.

[@YannickRoy76]

I have 2009 Corolla XRS with that infamous engine and I realized at 180,000km it was burning oil. Had a test done by Toyota and they said it was normal... I had two 4 Cylinder Camry’s and never added oil between oil changes!! Now I’m at 330,000km and it’s worst practically 1 quart every 800-900km!! Oil Ajust @ KM 2 Dec 2019 312656km 1 litre 17 Dec 2019 313810km 1 litre (1154km) 3 Jan 2020 315104km 1 litre (1294km) 22 jan 2020 316640km 1 litre (1536km) 31 jan 2020 317355km 3/4lire (715km) 11 fév 2020 318200km 1 litre (845km) 25 fév 2020 318879km 1 litre (679km) 5 Mars 2020 319823km 1 litre (944km) 1 Avril 2020 320 819 km 1 litre (996km) 4 Mai 2020 321505km OilChange 686km -5600km oil change and filter done

[@1584283]

Had a 2006, I used fully synthetic, great torque curve, and burned absolutely no oil after 100,000 miles. I checked every 1,000 out of mechanic paranoia

[@ToyotaMaintenance]

thanks for sharing

[@christophervanzetta]

Change the PCV

[@yukonstriker1703]

@@christophervanzetta Goof. Now go delete this comment as well as ALL the others regarding the PCV valve being the 'magic' repair idiot!

[@christophervanzetta]

@@yukonstriker1703 So you are arguing with a level 3 technician? 🤔

[@NunamedDragon]

Finally a engine worthy of sharing my drinking problem with.

[@Johnsmith-zi9pu]

On my 2az-fe the cam chain started rattling at 100,000Km it seemed to have a lighter chain than yours. Changing a cam chain is a lot of work, and in Toyota Tarago requires the removal of the engine.

[@TheJellyCorona]

Great video! I have one of these engines in my base model 2002 Camry, and I love it! Plenty of get up and go for its size, and the oil consumption is almost non-existent compared to my old 1999 Corolla which had the 1zz-fe. At 220k there was no changing the oil in that Corolla, just toping it off. It had a lot of timing chain rattle, and alot of valve noise too in below freezing temps. Still ran like a champ though lol

[@williamfswann]

I have the first TC 2005 with over 160,000 miles and it still runs like new, just a couple of batteries and a few tire changes; the paint is pretty much gone however this car still runs awesome! basically it's just a two door Camry.

[@ToyotaMaintenance]

awesome , thanks for sharing

[@nampam3945]

Have you seen the three piston types used in 2AZ-FE and can you explain the difference? For each vehicle type the piston was used at a different time. I just give what I can find for the RAV4 in the USA. Piston pins and rings are also replaced, but I will just describe what I found on pistons. All suspect pistons are replaced with piston part number 13211-28112. Piston type 13211-28031 was not defective and was used between 7.2003- 11.2005 for all 20 series RAV4.2. A change was made for 30 series (RAV4.3): production from 11.2005 to 06.2008 used suspect piston type 13211-28110 which is replaced if needed. Suspect piston type 13211-28111 was used for three months only in RAV4.3 from 06.2008 to 8.2008, [why this happened is obscure]. Between 08.2008 and 11.2009 I can find no data. From 11.2009 - 12.2012 the final correct piston was used. Summary NEED TO COMPARE the designs of 13211-28112 - final piston used to replace other pistons, used for the final 3 years of RAV4.3 13211-28111 - suspect, used for 3 months 13211-28110 - suspect, used for 3 years 13211-28031 - early ACA 22,23 piston, not suspect, no replacement needed. I have not yet found out how these pistons differ and why Toyota changed so often. I found this information in megazip.net where production and replacements are described.

[@yukonstriker1703]

Awesome information! Still awaiting for @Toyota Maintenance to reply...

[@NinjaRastaMon]

i got lucky with an 03 camry japan build VIN, at 307000 only starter 115$, power steering return line 70$, and radiator leaking minor 80-120$ or bottle of kseal, easy to fix. does not like full synthetic oils. no consumption at all with semi synthetic high milage oil. might try kseal and AT205 so i can run synthetic again. runs well still. liked an AT flush around 230 kms. Use the dealer oil its best and cheapest. I used synthetic castrol and it could use another flush back to the dealer oil now i would say. dont overfill it, seems to change the shift pattern, have it removed asap.

[@Lifesituations8000]

I removed the cam gears and now when I try to install them they don't align with my chain marks, what I could be doing wrong thanks in advance

[@kswis]

I too have the 2azfe, it powers my beloved 06 camry. Big car for the little motor so fast, no it is far from it however I get around 400 miles to a tank sometimes over 500 if all freeway miles, and with 209,500 miles!. I drive alot for work, and the whole time no less than 300 lbs of tools and at least that much in car audio amps, sub boxes ect, the sound deadening alone has to be around 50 lbs going through a full 40lb box and half of a 25 lb box of second skin... I'll rebuild it before I sell it. I love the car and the work done to it and the way I drive it shows.

[@zolizze49]

Do u have a video repairing this same type of engine?

[@victorhobson5078]

What kind of oil do you use? Very clean

[@Songwhisperer-t1x]

Can you comment or do a video on the 2ZRFE engine Dual vvti 1.8 Toyota Allion ( I think its similar to Scion) its a Japanese Domestic Model. Whats the best recommended oil after 100,000kms. I am using 10w30 Valvoline premium conventional as of now & about to do an oil change. Do you recommended changing of PCV, VGC, TPS after 100k kms, I get kind of rubber burning smell when driving uphill at times and also when the car is shifted from P to D or P to R, there is a thump a sudden jerk sometimes this happens only if its not parked at a flat levelled surface. And now I get kind of very jerky movements at once and happens frequent on long drives.. ( after engines been running for atleast a hour) on D, but when I shift to S its fine. What could be the problems , may be an issue of CVT? I recently changed the engine mounts thinking it might solve but no. Please advice. Thanks.

[@christophervanzetta]

The PCV should be changed every 30k...

[@husseindemash7710]

Robby tm xnjabxhbxb hey WA eknsm

[@Funkfreed]

Is this only for north american models? Does this problem exist for south east asia models?

[@dw2843]

Does the japanese version have same oil problem? I am from japan and my toyota vanguard has this engine

[@NunamedDragon]

Yes they do, my rav4 2006 made in Japan, has that issue.

[@dw2843]

@@NunamedDragon I just checked I thought I had the 2az-fe but I had the 2ar-fe. That one doesnt have this issue yes?

[@NunamedDragon]

@@dw2843 no it does not at least when compared to the 2az-fe,

[@PeterKKraus]

Great oil burning AZ2FE.

[@2AZ_NATE]

Mine has over 160k now no issues and i beat on it

[@oreally8605]

Toyota fixed those issues if your car wasn't over 150k miles.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

What was the reason for the oil burning on the on the Camry.

[@padams8485]

Israel Rodriguez The oil drain holes on the pistons were too small and so it coked up the oil drain passages. I rebuilt mine and the new pistons have noticeably bigger oil drain holes in the oil ring groove. Mine was burning about a quart of oil every 1500 miles, now I only have to add maybe 3/4 to 1 quart near the end of my oil change interval of around 4000-5000 miles.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

@@padams8485 , thank you.

[@padams8485]

Jay C Hello, I'm not sure if you purchased the parts from Toyota yet, but I bought a rebuild kit on Ebay. ($399-$499) It was actually very good quality and I'm sure way cheaper than Toyota. Also, a few tips that would have saved me time. (not sure how many miles yours has). I tried cleaning off the valves, but unless you have a wire wheel or don't mind taking some time with a drill and wire-brush attachment, it's to buy a new set. (around $45). In addition to pistons, rings, bearings, the Ebay kit came with oil pump, water pump, timing chain, guides, sprockets, tensioner, every single gasket even the tiny ones and thermostat gasket, oil pump gasket etc. The kit is really worth it for the pumps and other parts alone. Not included: Also, there is a camshaft bearing on the exhaust cam. I replaced it just because I wanted to be extra thorough. There are 4 bearings on the balance shafts. (8 halfs). Those I reused bc they were fine and Toyota wanted $8 for each half. Also, you'll need a 10MM male 12 point for the head bolts. Japanese, not European Triple Square. Autozone has it as a single around $8. Also apply 12 volts to your oil control valve while you have it apart to make sure it works fine. And you can ohm check it too. Should be around .3-.4 ohms if I remember correctly. While I had everything apart, I cleaned the 4 piston oil squirters real good with carb cleaner and I also took apart the VVT gear and cleaned it good before reassembly. It takes a 5 point bit, not a torx or star. Again, Autozone had them around $12.99 for a set with 5 sizes. I rented the cylinder honer and any other specialty tool I needed from O'Reilly to save money. The best piston ring compressor is the that is a solid piece and gradually gets smaller. Summit Racing has them online if you choose to get that type. I used the compression type and it worked, but took a little learning how to get it just right. Also, it takes the valve spring compressor type that you tap with a hammer. I got a Lisle one from Summit racing. It was around $68. Also, you can download the technical shop manual online and it helps a lot. I looked up pages online as I needed them. Oh and the valve bucket lifters are have specific fit disc shaped shims for each bucket lifter and go back exactly in the bucket lifter they came out of. I didn't realize this and mixed them up, so I took my head to a machine shop and they adjusted the valves to clearance specs. (they do it by knopping a little off each valve stem tip to get it within specs.) And with new valves you usually need this. So if you don't want to pay the $350-$400 for a cylinder head service, make sure each valve, bucket lifter etc goes back in the exact place it came out of. One of those plastic organizing trays and taking pics helps. The cam shaft caps are number and have I or E and arrows, so those are easier to reinstall. Just a few things I wished I had pre-planned before hand, I hope this helps.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

@@padams8485 Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to type all that. Very few ppl out that actually care. I really appreciate the helpful information, brother.

[@padams8485]

@Israel Rodriguez, no problem brother!

[@MattExzy]

Greetings from Australia. I have a Camry with this engine, and similar mileage, 191k miles/308k kilometers. It has some slight seepage from the valve cover (which I'm not too concerned about), and it sometimes leaves a drop of oil when parked - but it doesn't really *burn* much oil. Over the course of 2,500 miles, I'd say it consumes a little over half a quart (again, I'm from a metric country, so doing conversions...). All over an easy to maintain engine, all laid and spread out nicely.

[@christophervanzetta]

Change the PCV

[@RealAbelEstrada]

Does anyone know if the valve clearence needs to be adjusted on this engine or does it use hydraulic lifters?

[@testtube_alien]

Yes, every 100,000km. No hydraulic lifters. See www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=76

[@EliAngwin]

Oil burning is probably more of a crappy PCV system and the engine is consuming or ingesting oil through the the intake- engines are not designed to run on oil- and the head gasket issues could also be related or gulps of liquid oil being pulled into one/all of the cylinders and the bolts not strong enough to compress the increased non consistent compression ratio.

[@darksword1]

Can you replace the piston and piston rings on 2azfe for excessive oil consumption without removing the engine from car? I'm thinking to remove the oil pan, and push up the pistons from the bottom with the engine head off. Is it possible?

[@yukonstriker1703]

LOL nope. More trouble than it's worth. Pull the engine.

[@Krakondack]

That problem was supposed to have been solved, but my son's 2012 Scion xB with 80,000 miles is burning a quart every 1,500 or so miles. Not sure what to do about it.

[@xxbusterswordxx]

ATS chemical sells an engine treatment solution that will fix the problem

[@Krakondack]

@@xxbusterswordxx All I can find is the carbon removal treatment.

[@xxbusterswordxx]

@@Krakondack there should be an engine treatment solution that is meant to clear piston rings and carbon

[@Krakondack]

@@xxbusterswordxx Thanks for your help, but the engine runs fine - it just burns too much oil. ATS doesn't pretend to fix that.

[@markn3474]

In 2017 toyota put a brand new block and rebuilt the head on my 2azfe in my 2007 scion tc free

[@WhossBobbFPV]

Mark n How? I need the same service.

[@DaMan1964]

Was it a warranty claim? Just wondering why no charge on 10 year old engine. I luv Toyota.

[@georgetaper]

Just picked up a 2003 Camry 157k for $1000. Having some rough idle problems but it’s okay other than that. Feel like it might be idle air control because it only runs weird at idle

[@kemenchebasics]

I'm having the same problem with mine. Same year same mileage.

[@georgetaper]

@@kemenchebasics mine turned out to be an ignition coil problem.

[@christinyudhitiash]

i want to share my experience with toyota estima, i have change gear box matic k112, after i am finished replace the gearbox, i have some problem, engine indicator lights on, when the car is running, after that, i have scan that car, the DTC is output spped sensor circuit no signal. can you help me for solution ? thanks before

[@chrismemphis8062]

My poor in-laws babied and maintained 101k 2010 Camry overheated and had to be replaced. It got so hot the plugs I replaced at 100k were stripped and couldn't be removed to see in the cylinders. I bought a $2k JDM 2az with (allegedly) 50K on ebay for it. I had to swap the oil pan, timing cover and the belt size was different as the JDM are RH drive. Hoping to get a couple years out of it. I personally would avoid this engine and look for a six cylinder in this era. I also know a guy with a Rav4 that also experienced this at 110k.

[@dalitsofunsani949]

Fuel pressure regulator sensor diagram

[@chon4413]

I love this engine but the only thing i hate is that this engine likes oil too much!

[@chon4413]

Same to me my engine has 173k is stock from factory still running good

[@christophervanzetta]

@Jay C Stop saying a poorly designed piston ring is the culprit to the excessive oil burning. It just shows you lack an education of how the mechanics of a car works. The culprit is a clogged/sticking PCV. Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Excessive oil consumption and leak. Advising people to an expensive replacement is not only unethical, it's not needed. As the gasoline ignites, it causes an expansion of force that needs to be removed from the crankcase. A PCV is used for this purpose. As carbon and oil builds up the PCV becomes clogged and/or sticks, thus, leading to POOR ventilation of combustion pressure. This then has to escape somewhere else and it's usually THROUGH the piston rings as THAT is where the combustion occurs! I've read numerous reports on this issue and the many people I have spoken to NEVER replaced their PCV (Positive Crankcase Valve) which makes sense as to WHY their engines are burning oil more than necessary. The lack of knowledge is understandable as I don't expect everyone to take the time to understand fully how a vehicle and all of its systems work but I have done years of research and reading books to expand my knowledge of vehicles. The longer you run the engine without addressing this critical issue, the more problems you are going to create! It's common sense.

[@yukonstriker1703]

@@christophervanzetta TROLL Alert!

[@godboy114]

05 Rav4 196k miles right now, no oil burning going on atm

[@mikemorales1725]

we had a 2008 XB with the same engine and suddenly at about 40k miles it started using oil between changes. Very disappointed, was not expecting this from a Toyota engine.

[@fieldsofomagh]

What does Toyota have to say about the reasons for this condition? Was the car maintained according to the service manual ?

[@mikemorales1725]

@@fieldsofomagh Yes it was maintained, I mentioned it to the dealer who told me that some oil consumption was normal, I don't buy that for a minute. the reason you buy a new car is that you don't have to worry about such things. We didn't pursue it cause soon after that, the Toyota 86 came out and i traded the XB in for it.

[@christophervanzetta]

@Jay C Stop saying a poorly designed piston ring is the culprit to the excessive oil burning. It just shows you lack an education of how the mechanics of a car works. The culprit is a clogged/sticking PCV. Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Excessive oil consumption and leak. Advising people to an expensive replacement is not only unethical, it's not needed. As the gasoline ignites, it causes an expansion of force that needs to be removed from the crankcase. A PCV is used for this purpose. As carbon and oil builds up the PCV becomes clogged and/or sticks, thus, leading to POOR ventilation of combustion pressure. This then has to escape somewhere else and it's usually THROUGH the piston rings as THAT is where the combustion occurs! I've read numerous reports on this issue and the many people I have spoken to NEVER replaced their PCV (Positive Crankcase Valve) which makes sense as to WHY their engines are burning oil more than necessary. The lack of knowledge is understandable as I don't expect everyone to take the time to understand fully how a vehicle and all of its systems work but I have done years of research and reading books to expand my knowledge of vehicles. The longer you run the engine without addressing this critical issue, the more problems you are going to create! It's common sense.

[@yukonstriker1703]

@@christophervanzetta Toyota had a TSB for this engine because of excessive oil burning due to faulty piston/valve design. You claim it's simply a $8 PCV valve replacement? LMAO idiot!

[@rat7711]

my 08 camry 2AZ is an oil burner..qt. every 1000 and has 112,000 miles on it...you can bet your sweet *ss on one thing..i wont buy another

[@vince_only_way_is_up]

which is better 2 AZ - FE or 2 AR - FE

[@ely6219]

2ar is the succesor of the 2az its better and they have fixed the flaws of the 2az

[@markreynolds3850]

Thanks for sharing this video great job

[@padams8485]

What makes many 2AZ-FE engines vibrate too much at idle. If I put it in neutral it immediately stops. I have a 2007 Camry and I've seen tons of other Camry and Scion owners complain of this. I've checked and/or changed all of the obvious items, spark plugs, motor mounts, even rebuilt the engine. I suspect it is either the evap TSB for early model year 2007 engines that Toyota put out, or dirty transmission fluid affecting the torque convertor operation or engine load at idle. Because all other owner reports that I've read also say the heavy vibrating idle stops if you put the car in neutral say while at a stop light or drive thru, etc.

[@markn3474]

Probably the balance shaft assembly on the head

[@padams8485]

Mark n : Thank you for your reply. I had the head professionally done: serviced, pressure tested, new valves & adjusted to specs, seated, new oil seals. I then did the rebuild, spark-plugs, pistons, rings, bearings, cam-shaft bearing, seals, gaskets. Everything by the manual. I reused all of the balance shaft bearings because they were fine. I also replaced the timing chain, tc tensioner, guides, sprocket, cleaned the VVT gear, top motor mount, pcv valve and pcv valve hose, checked the VVT oil solenoid operation, and reassembled and it started again after 10,000 miles. Otherwise it runs great, accelerates fine. At this point, I think it must be the evap purge solenoid letting in liquid from the evap system after reading Toyota TSB EG035-07. Apparently liquid gasoline gets in the evap canister and evap lines instead of just vapors and this gets routed through the evap purge to the intake through the throttle body. It's either that or the transmission or torque convertor causing heavy load at idle. I suspected this bc if you put it in neutral it stops and the balance shafts are still moving almost the same rpm's from in-gear to park. Oh and I the rough idle/vibration is intermittent and only while stopped at idle in a drive gear or reverse. So with it being intermittent, I thought it might not be a balance shaft issue. The VVT gear and oil solenoid feed pressure was something I considered as well since Ford had similar rough idle issues with some VCT's on certain engine/years. However, I cleaned the VVT gear and the oil screen filter and made sure the VVT solenoid was operating by applying 12 volts to it while off the car.

[@padams8485]

@Jay C, Thank you Jay, I was thinking that same thing after narrowing it down myself, and I haven't heard reports of 2AZFE's with manual transmissions doing this. Plus, once I did a transmissions pan drain and fill it helped for about 5,000 miles. (Fluid was very dirty at 270,000 miles for the transmission, so the 3.8 quarts from the pan drain and fill just helped it temporarily). I plan to do that again and change this transmission filter as well this time. Funny thing is, after I rebuilt the engine it stopped doing this for about the first 10,000 miles, but that was probably just because the fresh engine didn't strain as much to spin the torque converter with the dirty transmission fluid). It returned around 10,000-12,000 miles and that's when I did the transmission pan drain and fill and it smoothed out the in-drive idle for about 5,000 miles. Also, I'm going to check and clean or just replace my fuel pump filter (in tank under the back seat), and see if that helps. Because I know the engine components were fine after the full rebuild and yes it is not the motor mounts. That was the first thing I checked and had to replace the top dog-bone motor mount. It started making me think it may be a combination issue of torque converter with dirty fluid and fuel filter screen starting to stop up, because you're right, pop it in neutral or park and it immediately smooths out. I'll update you after I do these maintenance services on the transmission fluid and fuel filter. Thanks for your input as well!

[@padams8485]

@Jay C This link below that has 5 parts total where two people do a Camry 2AZFE removal and reinstall. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXKyc6ahZZl1nLs

[@lbproductions3613]

@@padams8485 Hi Preston, please could you let me know if yo had any improvements after changing a fuel filter/transmission filter. I have the same issue with engine vibration 2AZ-FE - Toyota Previa. Your post helped a lot! Thank you!

[@TheDexa88]

Easy to work on huh you need to dismantle half of the engine bay to change timing chain.

[@arwzqu1964]

Looks like so much easier to work on in the car. The V6 is not.

[@donaldp7520]

is the toyota 2-ar-fe an interference engine

[@bruce1539]

2AZ toyota engine loss of oil pressure as engine warms up, check filter screen mains, any other ideas , oil pump and relief valve ok

[@Affordablebath_remodel]

timing chain broke at 160,000

[@TheObimara]

Hmm... I thought the problems only started wiht the 2007 model year. This has been stated by Scotty Kilmer and others. I have a 2005 Camry with 74k and oil "dissappearance" is minimal...

[@thanhnguyen4908]

pos 2AZ ENGINE shame toyota corp. bad piston rings & piston garbage made

[@Manuqtix.Manuqtix]

Toyota's answer to the nissan qr or maybe it's the other way around

[@ferndog1461]

2003, Camry , 2.4 L , 2az-fe, built in Kentucky, 130,000 miles. Driven by a woman, then her daughter. Regular maintenance. Toyota did a free engine Rebuild/new piston rings in 2009. Now it has reservoir tank that overflows coolant after driving on a freeway. The classic sign of a blown head gasket, ( Electric Fans turn on ). So now I'm doing going to attempt to use a head gasket sealer to buy time until my next car. Avoid this engine! Like a fool I trusted the Toyota brand & thought a woman's used Toyota was a good investment. Sorry, I unsubscribed from channel .

[@yukonstriker1703]

Weak rear head bolts, another known issue

[@NunamedDragon]

'Woman driven' is a con.

[@waleyefish9026]

Good Luck with Oil Burning.. You will be changing O2 sensors and the cat soon.

[@kibbles5724]

I had to, but only after 190k+ miles, the engine is overall very reliable but sometimes causes exhaust issues.

[@kevinkyzer813]

Waleye fish is right catalyst below efficiency p0420 is what your gonna see as a result of the oil burning, carbon will slowly clog your cats ruin your sensors and create a restricted exhaust, and cause your car to run sluggish and shake, maybe even pop a head gasket because those hot exhaust gasses need to be able to escape. Good luck.

[@ErickeverRB]

No oil burning on mine, but I did change the cat, the freaking 02 sensor wouldn’t come off my original one. So I had to buy a new one for around $200, silly 02 sensor is madd expensive

[@bayfinest1938]

@@ErickeverRB ebay your best friend lol

[@taton5]

I wanna rebuild mine but its my daily

[@vince_only_way_is_up]

Have to agree

[@smms1276]

2AZFE 👍 👍

[@ethan8084]

tkss

[@JoseReyes-yd6cp]

hi i have 2AZ-FE 2007 in my toyota blade 2007 aze156H with website is the best to buy parts for my car

[@christophervanzetta]

Stop saying a poorly designed piston ring is the culprit to the excessive oil burning. It just shows you lack an education of how the mechanics of a car works. The culprit is a clogged/sticking PCV. Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Excessive oil consumption and leak. Advising people to an expensive replacement is not only unethical, it's not needed. As the gasoline ignites, it causes an expansion of force that needs to be removed from the crankcase. A PCV is used for this purpose. As carbon and oil builds up the PCV becomes clogged and/or sticks, thus, leading to POOR ventilation of combustion pressure. This then has to escape somewhere else and it's usually THROUGH the piston rings as THAT is where the combustion occurs! I've read numerous reports on this issue and the many people I have spoken to NEVER replaced their PCV (Positive Crankcase Valve) which makes sense as to WHY their engines are burning oil more than necessary. The lack of knowledge is understandable as I don't expect everyone to take the time to understand fully how a vehicle and all of its systems work but I have done years of research and reading books to expand my knowledge of vehicles. The longer you run the engine without addressing this critical issue, the more problems you are going to create! It's common sense.

[@hieulamtri5535]

Yes, I totally agree with you on this. But I think there're 2 problems here. The 2AZ-FE had flaws in its design that can lead to burning oil and people don't even know about the car mechanism and do proper maintenance. I watch Scotty and he also suggest try fixing the PCV first when your car burn oil. I am also finding a good camry or corrolla to buy and this oil burner issue really makes me to think twice.

[@yukonstriker1703]

LMAO

[@christophervanzetta]

@@hieulamtri5535 Because Scotty was never a car mechanic 🤫

[@jrm163]

Chris, I’m trying to understand what you said here. When the pressure builds up IN THE CRANKCASE (that’s when a combustion happens), won’t the pressure escape from the seals first? In addition, both sides of the oil control rings are on the crankcase side (relative to the combustion chamber), so the pressure on both sides of the rings are equal. I still don’t see how the leaking pressure from combustion needs to escape THROUGH the oil control rings. Could you help me understand this better? Thanks!

[@arianduran1725]

😂 that's nothing , my scion burns oil every month. Scion has same 2.4 with 300.000 miles & i have never opened the engine . all original . motors are good

[@arifulislamforhad3349]

Good jop friend

[@evanprice7967]

Fix all of the oil burning ones for free since it's easy and wonderful.

[@arifulislamforhad3349]

I'm a mechanic

[@kevinkyzer813]

"You can trust me"

[@jamesbramblett3346]

Yes the 2AZ-FE is a fantastic design. Overbuilt bottom end, good power, low weight(aluminum block) and as stated easy to work on. I have 2 of these engines that have 350,000 miles on them.

[@netherdoggaming2048]

No oil burning issues? I am about to buy a 2006 RAV4 with this engine and a bit worried now reading all this stuff about the oil consumption

[@jamesbramblett3346]

Jacob Johnson unfortunately yes some of the 2az’s can exhibit excessive oil consumption due to a flawed piston design in combination with going to long between oil changes. The problem usually shows up by 150,000 miles on the engine

[@Happyantix112]

If they can still go to 350k miles even with this issue then I have nothing to worry about right?

[@MarcelMuvuala]

Bonjour stp la tradition de langue française

[@rentonflowers6202]

The oil burner

[@redcapphony]

Is anyone else getting creepy murder vibes from him?