Toyota Rear Axle Seal/Bearing Replacement (Part 2)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

*VERY IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING THIS JOB* 1) **Saving Money on Parts** At playtime 26:32, we talk about how you can save money on the parts by reusing both ABS tone rings and reusing all 4 retainers by swapping their positions on the axle. If you pull the parts off like we show in the video, you can REUSE the ABS TONE RINGS and reuse BOTH OUTER RETAINERS. We suggest you PURCHASE NEW INNER RETAINERS to mate up with the new seal because the retainers sustain some damage during removal. A new retainer will have a perfectly machined inner surface to mate up with the axle shaft. Upon removal, some slight gouging occurs to the retainer and now it's no longer a perfectly smooth machined surface. If you put a used retainer back on the axle in the inner position to mate up with the seal, there's a chance gear oil could travel between the axle surface and the inner diameter of the inner retainer due to the grooves left in the retainer from the removal process. It's obvious the retainer, ABS tone ring and inner race of the bearing are made from a softer metal than axle because the axle sustains no damage from the installation and removal of the parts. 2) Some people have reported that even after doing everything right, they still had gear oil getting past the seal. One culprit ended up being the metal to metal connection of the axle seal with the axle housing. For some people, a previous mechanic or DIYer might have not been very careful and scored the axle housing with a seal puller or other tool. Others might have had no detectable imperfection in the axle housing but they still had gear oil sneak past that metal to metal connection of the axle seal and axle housing. A fix that will work for this situation is cleaning up the surface of the axle housing with acetone or denatured alcohol and doing the same with the outer surface of a new axle seal. Smear some Toyota Red FIPG which is meant to work with gear oil applications or a similar gasket sealer meant to work with gear oil onto the axle housing sealing surface and also some on the seal itself and then drive it in. The FIPG will fill any tiny imperfections in the metal and hopefully stop gear oil from being able to get past this connection. 3) When using the flipped inner retainer technique, it appeared 5mm of polished axle showing was about perfect to get the seal lip riding dead center on the shoulder of the retainer. After pulling some axles from rigs we did this job on a couple years ago, it looks like 4mm of polished axle showing would be a better initial measurement to use. With that said, you still need to verify you have a good mating of the seal and inner retainer by performing a grease of sharpie test. After that initial grease or sharpie test, you'll know if you got it perfect or you'll need to do some adjustment. Does the seal absolutely need to ride dead center on the retainer? The answer is no. Somewhere close is fine. The reason why you want it close to center is to allow for axle play as the bearing ages. If you're close to the one of the edges, the axle play could allow the seal to not ride on the retainer and then you'll develop a leak. 4) In the video where we show using 4 thin flat washers to pull the axle stud back into the position in the bearing case, you could use 2 of the provided thick flat washers from the kit to accomplish the same thing. So, there's no need to buy some flat washers from a hardware store. 5) On the back side of the axle face there's a metal enclosure which is an "Oil Director" (our term, not Toyota's) By design, if the oil seal fails, oil will eventually work it's way through the bearing, flow out through the dust seal into the Oil Director and then get spun out into the wheel through the hole in the axle flange and finally through a hole in the brake drum. As part of this job, it wouldn't be a bad idea to shoot some brake cleaner into the exit hole on the axle flange and also spray it directly into the oil director from the back side to clean it out of any residual gear oil. You wouldn't want your brand new brake shoes potentially getting contaminated with gear oil from the residual left inside the Oil Director.

[@RoNBEE1]

Hi Tim. I was doing really well following your instructions, on the very last step of the last axle, I over pressed the ABS and retainer...got too excited. Any tips on getting the ABS and Retainer off? I don’t have enough clearance for the red metal piece to pull it off. Help please. Do I cut it off?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@RoNBEE1 Hey Ron, you must have pressed it on pretty far to not be able to get the ABS puller under the ABS tone ring. You will have to cut it off unless you have a bearing splitter that will fit under the ABS time ring and that you can figure out how to bolt it to the axle puller tool. If you watched Part 1, we use a bearing splitter bolted to the Durasolid tool. To get the bearing splitter in place, you have to knock out all 4 serrated studs. If you can't make something like that work, I would suggest cutting the ABS tone ring and inner retainer with an cutting disk on an angle grinder or similar tool. You just have to be very careful not to score the axle.

[@RoNBEE1]

I figured that much to have to cut it. Have to be very careful. Someone on a forum have put two pry bars and lifted it up slightly...I’d say I’ve over pressed it by about a quarter inch. The Abs Puller needs about 1/4 inch more for clearance.

[@RoNBEE1]

Thanks for your tip Tim. I ended up cutting both of them off and hoping to find some new parts tomorrow. I did the grease test and 4.70-4.80 of polished axle put it right at center! However, when I put the axle back in to spin it. I heard a clicking sound. My ABS sensor magnet are on since I couldn’t get them off. But I’m not sure where that sound is coming from, someone side spider gears? (My rear differential is empty right now. Any help here? Will that sound go away when I fill it back up?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@RoNBEE1 The clicking is the gears in the differential. Don't worry about it.

[@duanebier5870]

Hi, I'm the guy that designed and builds these pullers in Omaha, NE USA. Just wanted to belatedly thank Tim for making this video and for his advice on the product. I also want to thank all of those that have purchased my products. I know that there are now unauthorized imported copies being offered and that you have a choice when considering your purchase. So I'll do my best to make sure you get the best VALUE for your money. Thanks for buying American.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Duane and It was our pleasure to make this video and support your tool. I'm glad there were reported problems with the original tool we used for this repair because it lead us to you and your tool which is far superior. Sean and I were happy to collaborate with you to make the tool more functional for the people to use. It's unfortunate there are people who think it's ok to steal someone's design and sell it as their own. I hope the majority of people will choose to buy the Original - Made in the USA.

[@Arnie_Davidson]

Duane, loved the kit but it did not work for my 2004 Sequoia, the setup was different from Tims video. I ground out the ABS plate to fit under the ring as the outer retainer was much fatter the axial shaft was 48mm at that point. Also after the clip the shaft decreased to 46mm for the ABS ring and Inner retainer. I made it work but then I also had to use the main tool tube as the press, using a old retainer ring. The press adapter was too small for my shaft.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Arnie_Davidson Thanks for sharing this Arnie.

[@busmup808]

Howzit Duane. 1st off I wanted to tell Much Mahaloz for a brilliant product. I tackled this job and finished it in 2hrs. With the help of my Harbor Freight 20 ton air/hydraulic press. Also Mahaloz for shipping your product 1st thing Monday morning. When my box came in yesterday, I drove straight to my local Toyota stealership to pick up my parts. The noise from the rear bearing was so loud that people were looking at me while I was driving by. Aloha, Dain 🤙🏾

[@busmup808]

Timmy The Toolman. Love your videos bro. Much Mahaloz for the attention to detail on ALL your videos. With the special tools you use and the steps you take to get the job done. Is there anyway I could send you guys some Toyota hats? My Dad and brother work for Servco HAWAII and I just wanted to give back for all u guys do. Let me know. Aloha, Dain 🤙🏾

[@richarddiaz8248]

Thanks!

[@rickh590]

Hey Tim, thanks for a great very complete video on the axle bearing replacement with Duane's tool. I really hated all of the you tubes where the tone ring and retainers were chopped off. I was a bit leery of flipping the retainer for the seal fit. When I pulled my axle assembly out, I measured the distance to the top of the tone ring and the drum housing. I also noted the wear ring on the original outer retainer, 2mm from the inner bevel of the factory installed retainer. The flipped edge of the retainer has a slight bevel, just enough to allow it to slip into the seal without damage and give the extra seal area. Since I didn't have a 3" pipe clean out for pressing the bearing, a Progresso soup can is the same size, just use a 1x6" piece of wood to throw on top. I actually just pushed the bearing in without using the press. And as a final note, I was doing this without help and using the threaded part of the press jack was not easy. I did the bearing removal in 2 steps, pressing to the limit, releasing the jack and them raising the press plate up to the next holes. On the installation, I used a impact socket as a spacer so I could set the bearing/tone ring without cranking out the extension on the jacks shaft. All went well and Duane is a great guy to do business with.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Rick, You're very welcome and you did great. You got it done all on your own and that's got to be a great feeling. Good to hear you feel the same about Duane. He is a great guy. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@nightdipper5178]

Excellent video, great tips. My tip - Clean out the "-Oil Defrector-" passage especially if there is gear oil in the brake drum and on the shoes. By design if the oil seal fails oil will flow out of the dust seal into the "Oil Defrector" then spun out into the wheel through the hole in the flange next to the the lug-nuts. If the "Oil Defrector" is clogged the oil will overflow out of the Defrector into the brake drum and pads. I use steam to clean the passage, brake cleaner could be used by spraying it into the hole on the flange. It's a good idea to clean this passage when checking the rear shoes to keep oil out of the brakes if the seal fails. Spelling??? Defrector??? That's how it is spelled in the manual.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Your tip is a good one. When we shot the video, we didn't understand that the Toyota engineers figured out a system to direct gear oil that got past the seal and through the bearing away from the brakes. I don't think the manual even discusses the name of it but maybe they do. Anyway, it's definitely not a bad idea to try to clean out that area behind the axle end during your axle seal job so gear oil left in there doesn't end up contaminating your new brake shoes. Glad you like the video and thanks for sharing this.

[@jreg0028]

I've been waiting for this video. I watched the whole video then immediately purchased it. I'll have it within a week. The engineer of this tool is a genius and timmy you are one dedicated do-it-yourselfer. I can't thank you all you guys enough. The puller tool alone is worth its weight when considering you don't have to buy those other tools. Great job.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and we appreciate the kind words. I wholeheartedly agree that this tool was well thought out and well built. I really wish it was available a couple years ago because it would have made my life much easier.

[@RideYearRound]

I almost bought the tool on ebay from a random seller until I noticed your note in the description. I reached out to Duane directly and he got back to me within 15 minutes with a cheaper price than his ebay store and free shipping. Thanks for the thorough videos, can't wait to knock this out on my 06 Tundra.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thank you for buying from Duane and not rewarding those people who ripped off his design. I really appreciate it!

[@RideYearRound]

@@TimmyTheToolman It's totally worth it to support the original creator and for the peace of mind knowing it'll be built really well.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ride Year Round I agree. Totally worth getting the higher quality original built in the U.S.

[@miloganze3469]

Hey Tim, Sorry about giving you a hard time in the past. Sometimes we are in a dark place... Thank you for taking your time to make these videos. You definitely have more patients than I do. Happy Monday to you !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No worries. I don't remember our exchange, but I appreciate you responding back with a positive message for us. You're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!

[@kendramckenna7312]

Local dealership was going to charge me $600 pre-side rear total $1200 and $900 pre-side front for total of $1800 grand total $3000 for all four wheel bearings on a 98’ 4Runner so yeah it worth the cost of a press $250 local Duane’s tool $130. Toyota parts a little over $320. So thank you Tim for guiding us through the process. It definitely saved a ton of money especially in the times we are living in.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Kendra. Yep, doing your own work can saves lots of money. Glad our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!

[@benzoil0453]

After quite some time of anticipation and acquiring more tools, I finally started and completed this job and others successfully in one shot. 3rd member swap with truetrac from ECGS, rear bearings, axle seals, and brakes. Duane's tool, harbor freight press, and OTC slide hammer were all SO worth the money! Thanks again Tim and Sean for everything! I'm past due to give back to you guys, I'll get on it now. Very much looking forward to how this truetrac will perform this winter in Eastern WA. Thanks again! Ben

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's awesome Ben! Great job doing all that work. That has to feel really good. Nice to know our videos helped you out. You're very welcome!

[@ab3064]

Great video, thanks for the awesome work. A tip I've learned is that it helps to freeze loose fitting bearings before installation. I froze the bearings on this project and they dropped right in, no press work. I then set the assembly out in the sun for a bit and they were nice and snug. Also if you need to make small adjustments while pressing the tone ring/retainer I found that if you do a partial press stroke, you can tap from above with a rubber mallet to get very fine movement and arrive at that perfect 4.8-5 mm spacing.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and we appreciate you sharing your tips.

[@davidw5858]

Great video! Just a tip to remove the snap ring. When you first start to pry it apart, use a paint can opener to catch the edge. The bend will slip under the edge and not pop out.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip.

[@Basshead40]

Note to anyone doing this job on down the road.. do NOT try using a 12 ton press, it will not be big enough to do the job. I had to take it back to harbor freight and buy the 20 ton like Timmy has/ uses in the video. That cost me so much time and headache.... Frick smh 🤦 live and learn... live and learn. Used this video to do my ol 3rd gen today. Nuked, been such a long day, but I got er done, and I am stoked it's all now fully replaced a-z brand new oem Toyota parts. The bearings are now discontinued, and so yeah, that's dumb of toyota to have done. I had to call about 40 dealerships and found 2 in TX that each had 1 bearing each in stock.. Thanks again Mr Timmy the Toolman!!! Your video was incredibly nice to have for references of each step to do the job!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing your story with this repair. Good job getting it done. And yeah, Toyota was stupid to discontinue the bearings.

[@scottinalaska]

Ordered one from Duane today! Fought through the first job. I'll be ready this next time around! Thanks for the recommendation, Tim. Nothing like supporting a fellow American - you by telling us, and me by buying his product!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, MERICA! You'll really like using Duane's tool. It's leap and bounds better than the Durasolid tool and it's super affordable. I was the one who contacted Duane and was wondering if he could handle the additional sales if we supported his product. He said no problem because he's retired and has plenty of time to keep up on the orders. Talking with him, I could tell he was a really good dude so it was a no brainer for us to support him.

[@stevenbernier4206]

I am glad that I procrastinated on buying the blue tool. t This tool arrived today ,very well packaged, good color instructions. Thank you for the well produced and informative videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Steve. You'll really appreciate this tool when you get around to using it. A very well thought out and constructed tool for sure.

[@FlyLan]

I'm confused. I ordered a First Gen Tacoma w/ABS McSpecial from Sir Duane the Brain recently...it is VERY blue. I thought the point of this video is that the McSpecial kits are the better way to go. Did they used to come in a color other than blue?

[@Jasonhb07]

FYI, Duane's tool is a hair too wide and doesn't fit into the cross member of Harbor Freight's 12-ton press. My press is about three years old. I'm not sure if the new ones are wider. If you're purchasing this tool and a press--get the 20-ton press. I was able to weld together a new cross member to make this tool work with my press. Otherwise, Duane's tool is quality and will make this job seamless. Thanks for the video guys!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for letting us know the 12 ton press doesn't work with Duane's tool. The 20 ton press is definitely the way to go though since it's not that much more money and it can handle any needed job for a 3rd Gen 4runner and most other vehicles as well.

[@ab3064]

I wish I had seen this comment sooner. I already had the 12 ton press for previous work. Duane's tool is about 1/4" too wide to fit through the opening on the 12 ton press shelf. I cut the shelf in half with a hack saw to get the tool through and then fastened it back together with cam straps. Not the best solution but I was able to successfully complete the job with a 12 ton harbor freight press. I would absolutely recommend a second set of hands if you go this route.

[@shelanhumes1405]

Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. How I wish your shop was around the corner so I could repair my old 4runner. No wonder we keep replacing seals so often. Greetings from Belize in Central America

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Knowledge is power and there's still a lot of people doing this repair without knowing the situation with the axle seals. I'd like to visit Belize one day.

[@shelanhumes1405]

@@TimmyTheToolman Indeed I can now see why a 2 hr. job can turn to a 2 day job here because of not having access to certain special tools. Sir, you are welcome to visit our country any time.

[@albertotorres1839]

My English is not very good. but your videos help me a lot. I have learned many things. Muchas gracias.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Mi Espanol no es muy bueno tambien. Es bueno oir nuestros videos tiene ayudarte mucho. De nada Alberto. Feliz Wrenching!

[@joestanosheck1453]

Once again Timmy saves the day! I have to clean my rear brakes every other month now. It's time to do this job.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the job Joe. Hope it goes smooth for your.

[@Patrick.Weightman]

This tool is *WELL* worth the money. Cannot emphasize that enough - I had one axle completely done and ready for install in the blink of an eye

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment. We agree, Duane's tool is awesome.

[@tronskifpv]

that tool is incredible. It is really well thought out and extremely well made.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, Duane has revolutionized rear axle press work with his toolsets. He makes adapter plates for all the different Toyota/Lexus SUVs and Trucks, simplifying the press work for us.

[@MikeInMurray]

You, sir, are a lifesaver. Just last week on a wet street in town I slid my 2003 Tundra sideways onto a city curb with great force resulting in a wobbly left rear wheel. Pulling the brake drum and spinning the axle, I determined that it looks like the wheel stud plate on the axle shaft is bent so that's what I have to replace. I've been working on my Toyotas for years but this is about as advanced as I've dared to go so far. I have a factory service manual but they only go so far. Your video, along with part 1, is one of the reasons I love the internet. I got my 20 ton press from HF today along with some other minor tools (seal press kit, jack stands, gear oil pump). The new axle shaft kit arrives Monday, the "donald-the-bonald" jig arrives Tuesday, and hopefully I'll be turning wrenches Tuesday evening. Thank you for a most helpful tutorial. I really appreciate it. Incidentally, the first video on this I watched was from a guy who replaced his axle shaft and associated parts "without a press". I thought, oh no... not even gonna try that. Then I found yours and decided the expense for the tools and specialized parts was well worth not paying someone else to do it. Or... attempting the "without a press" method. ;)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Thanks for sharing all of that. Great to hear our videos are going to help you get your truck fixed. Let me know how it goes for you. Happy Wrenching!

[@MikeInMurray]

@@TimmyTheToolman I did the complete repair a few days ago. Now, I live about 15 miles from the nearest small town so I had to make sure, before I started, that I had everything I needed. A few of the things, the eBay jig "do everything" tool and an Amazon package with a 3" cleanout thing as well as a few other minor hand tools, were due the very day but I made sure they were "out for delivery" before starting. Thanks to you, it went as good as I could have expected. A few things creaked alarmingly while pressing them off but it all went very well. The insertion of the bearings using the abs cleanout didn't just fall in like yours did but it took almost no pressure. Had to bang in the oil seal with a wooden dowel because it got hung up and didn't want to finish going in but that turned out okay. I measured 4mm for the inner retainer and the wear line on the old one was right in the middle. Because I was using a new axle shaft I didn't know if I could trust the "clean" mark as a reference so I still had to trial and error it. Worked fine using the sharpie technique. Again, thanks so much. The internet can be a force for both good or bad. In this case, it was a wonderful thing. Now, please show me in great detail how to replace the timing belt on my 1st gen 4.7L Tundra... :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@MikeInMurray Good to hear you got the job done. Getting those axle seals in without damaging them can be a challenge. I've managed to destroy a couple so far but I've done this repair around 12 times now. I think one day we'll start doing work on the 4.7 liter engine but nothing planned for the near future.

[@frankhorton7329]

Thank you for your detailed description and attention to detail. I used your video to rebuild the suspension on my 2003 Tundra last year

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and we're happy to hear our videos helped you renew the suspension on your Tundra. Happy Wrenching!

[@centenomarc]

Dude, just wanted to say your awesome. Your instructions are excellent. Couldn't have done this job without your videos and the tool worked perfectly. Thanks again. Subscriber for life!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Marc. Great to hear our video helped you pull off this repair without issue. We appreciate you commenting and sharing your success story with us and I'm sure Duane appreciates your comment as well about his tool performing flawlessly for you. Happy Wrenching and thanks for subscribing to our channel.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Marc C dude that’s rad! It’s good to hear from people like you who have been successful! Thanks for commenting & keep up the sicmods & keep smashing that like button!

[@marco4439]

Dang, Tim! Every time I turn around you are saving me money! Keep up the good work!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Marco and nice job doing your own work. You do the work and make sure it's done right. You learn something that you can pass onto others. And, you save tons of money in the process. Turning your own wrenches is a Win for multiple reasons. Thanks for taking the time to comment and Happy Wrenching!

[@bradsmeltzer2569]

Hey Tim, another home run! Just finished my rear axel job with my new Dwane tool - everything was very slick! Thanks so much for your fine video and tell me where to send you some beer money!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Brad, great to hear the job worked out well for you. Having you report back to us sharing your success story is thanks enough but if you'd like to send us some brewski money, there's a "Tip Jar" link on our home page. If you look in the bottom right hand corner of the home page picture, you'll see the link.

[@bradsmeltzer2569]

@@TimmyTheToolman Done! Wish it could be more. I've done this wheel bearing and seal replacement, the e-locker upgrade, control arm bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends, timing belt/water pump/idler pullies/seal jobs so far, thanks to your great videos. And I have a growing collection of tools in my garage. Can you explain to my wife why all this is good? :-) Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@bradsmeltzer2569 Thanks for the tip. Good to hear you've made good use of our videos. The tools are an easy sell. Just think how much money you've saved yourself doing your own work. The tools have paid for themselves and can be used for future jobs. If you ever decide to stop wrenching, you can sell the tools and get some of your money back. Pretty much a no brainer. Happy Wrenching!

[@patryder8896]

Great video, just bought my hf press and the press kit from Duane...you're the man

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sicmods pat! Glad you conquered this job & took the time to comment! We appreciate it.

[@it4dps]

Hi Tim, Thanks for another great video. While buying the bearings for my 99 4Runner yesterday I discovered that my local Napa carries the Koyo bearings for the truck. They appear to be the exact same bearings as the Toyota offering except in a Koyo box. (..Koyo part # 212-2453..) They also have 2 new retainers with each bearing, and they cost $55 each. (..my normal dealer out of Denver wanted $95 each..) Unfortunately Napa did not have a listing for the ABS ring. Thanks again for all the effort that you and your crew put into these vids!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. That's cool that Napa actually stocks the bearings and retainers for our rigs. You might want to ask them though who makes the retainers. I've heard Timken retainers fit tighter onto the axle shaft than OEM. One guy bent this ABS/retainer remover that's featured in this video. He's the second guy I've heard that has bent his tool doing this job. I'm suspecting it might have something to do with the aftermarket retainers fitting so tight onto the axle shaft. So, if they are Timken and you ever need to remove them off the axle, it might require a lot of force. I don't know if you read all the information offered in the Part 1 video description and the comment we pinned but you can actually reuse both retainers on each axle and also reuse the ABS tone rings saving you a decent chunk of change. Good luck with the job.

[@it4dps]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the heads up. The retainers came in the same box with the bearings, so I'm hoping that they are also Koyo. I will compare them to the originals very carefully and then decide which ones I reinstall. It's cold and rainy/snowy here, so it's going to wait a few days.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@it4dps No problem. Maybe ask Napa if Koyo makes the retainers or are they from another manufacturer.

[@mattodonnell2639]

Many thanks to Timmy the Toolman, Dr. Coffee and Duane for outstanding research and ingenuity. I have a ’98 4 Runner and a ‘97 4 Runner, both with anti-lock brakes. I’ve pulled the rear axles on both and have taken them to the Toyota dealerships multiple times. I read the Dr. Coffee method on TTORA forum, but never had a SST; after watching this video, I decided to buy Duane’s SST and give it a go. I followed everything to a T; I also filled in the Dremel cuts in the axle with RTV. Unfortunately, after only 3 months and 3K miles, both sides have leaked again. I pulled the driver’s side axle; the inner seal wear mark is dead center on the retainer. Everything looks good and the RTV sealant is still in good shape where the Dremel cut into the axle. I took the axle to the local Toyota dealership. The tech said everything looks normal. He went back to talk with an old head mechanic; the mechanic said that if it’s going through that many seals then the axle may be bent; also, the bearing goes in one way-supposedly there is a small ridge on the bearing-I don’t see any difference between sides of the bearings. I have not run either of these vehicles off-road that much, so bent axles and housings should not be culprits. One tech mentioned you could visually see a bent axle by looking at it spinning freely; mine run smoothly with no wobble or hop; however, I’ve not done any diagnostics on the axle runout or housing. The forums mention bent axles and one post states the factory service manual recommends replacing the housing if there are repeat problems. What are your thoughts…Help - any suggestions!?!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I think there's a good chance gear oil is getting past the imperfections in the axle. Who damaged the axle cutting off the parts? For your 98, those bearings can go on either way. There's no difference between the two sides. If you had an 01 or 01 model, those bearings are definitely side specific. I doubt your axles are bent unless it was involved in an accident. Also, there's most likely no issues with your housing. The issue is most likely the damage that was done to the axles when the parts were cut off and the axles were gouged by the cutting disks.

[@mattodonnell2639]

@@TimmyTheToolmanThanks for taking time to respond. I also did a breather mod, so that isn't the issue. I've had the dealers do the axle work in the past. The dealer typically uses a dremel to cut off the ABS ring and the retainer; I thought it interesting that both dealers here said it's standard practice to cut 'em off vs. a SST and press. Next time I'll run the axles over to the machine shop to see if they can weld and turn 'em. New axles probably are not an option (or cost prohibitive if available). The only other options are to scour the junk yards or find a suitable rear end swap. Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mattodonnell2639 So let me get this straight. A dealer is the one who cut off the parts and scored the axles? If so, I'd get them to buy you new axles. That is an unforgivable mistake and they should own it and make it right. Now I know why they're trying to point you to a bent axle or problem with the axle housing. They screwed up and don't want to admit it. The gear oil is most likely getting past under the retainer and ABS tone ring because of their mess up.

[@mattodonnell2639]

@@TimmyTheToolman Tim -- I'm about to do a forensics exam on these beasts to figure out what's going on. Looking at the FSM, it calls for axle shaft runout checks and replacement if damaged--bad on me for never having done this before. New axle shafts are on the way. I also noticed the FSM tells us, step 8(d). Position the backing plate on a new bearing case..." I've never replaced the bearing case before, but this time, I'm going with the FSM. As a matter of fact, my bearings had a very loose fit into the cup and kept falling out before pressing everything back together. The part guys at Toyota show a seal between the bearing and the bearing case (they sent an email with a picture -- sure enough, it's there); however, the FSM does not show this. The parts guys said the techs replace the seal if the cup and bearing are separate (didn't make sense). I've never seen an oil seal in this location. Have you...any thoughts...?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mattodonnell2639 There's no seal between the bearing and bearing case. There is a seal that you press in by hand on the back side of the bearing case and faces the brakes that we replace in our video.

[@JexuanyGuerrero]

Great video. Followed it and very helpful. For inserting the bearing i put the bearing in the freezer and when ready to insert the bearing, it slid in without needing to press

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. The bearing fit in the bearing case isn't a press fit. We've installed them many times without the press, but you have to get the bearing perfectly aligned to the bearing case for that to happen. If it starts going in crooked, then you have to use some force. I'm glad our video helped you out.

[@PatrickMurphy-nx2fj]

Bought Duane's tool, works great. previously paid a repair shop to replace the bearing and seal. Bearing noise was gone but still had an oil leak onto the wheel and brakes. Pulled it apart thought oil seal was bad and replaced seal, still leaking after that. By now the grease had been washed out of the bearing. Pulled it apart again and armed with Duane's proceeded to replace bearing seals etc. Found that the crow foot puller that slides under the tone ring was too thick to fit under it........pissed at Duane.......No the previous " Mechanic had slid the tone ring and inner retainer on too far. Had to use two tapered chisels to tap the ring up enough to slide the tool under. Long story short the oil seal was never riding on the inner retainer at all......be careful who you choose to do this job.......better yet do it yourself or at least be present to measure the 5 mm of polished axle showing after the final press. Thanks Tim and Duane.....this was a great help. And ill buy you that beer....cheers! tool

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What you just learned is what many paying customers have learned using mechanic shops for this repair. This has got to be the #1 job mechanics screw up on these rigs. Even dealership mechanics screw it up. Great job fixing their screw-up. Glad our video and Duane's excellent toolset helped you get it done. Happy Wrenching!

[@rthomas2157]

Awesome video thanks so much for doing these. These videos have saved me quite a bit over the years they are definitely I invaluable resource

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome. Great to hear our videos have helped you save money. Turning your own wrenches definitely has it's benefits. We appreciate you taking the time to comment.

[@dand4564]

You guys have once again guided me through a big project. Thanks for your hard work and excellent attention to detail... Just sent you a couple PayPal beers

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Dan. We're happy to hear our video helped you out. We appreciate the beer donation. Thank!

[@mattchilders3123]

Best Vid I've see on this repair.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Matt. We appreciate the compliment.

[@ericrodriguez1700]

Thanks for this awesome video! I got ripped for $500 at a shop that ruined my axle by grinding into it 😡 purchased the puller u used and did it right using this exact method on my 06 tundra! Keep grinding my man 🤘🏽

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Eric, what you experienced with a shop screwing this job up isn't uncommon. Auto shops and machine shops screw this job up all the time. You were smart to make the investment in Duane's tool and do the job yourself. Glad our video helped you get it done right.

[@rigbino]

Thank you. Incredible detail Timmy. So helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. I'm glad you found our video helpful. Now you know more than most paid mechanics how to do this job properly.

[@rickh590]

#1 Thank You Duane. Your tool rocks and I expect these knock offs are of sub standard quality. I also know you stand behind your product. You know me as rhaussies.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment Rick. I don't know if Duane is going to revisit our channel and see your comment so I figured I would respond for him. Duane would obviously appreciate your comment and your support.

[@turnah8242]

Hey Timmy, just ordered Duane's tool. And I am also going to purchase a few tools I don't currently own from your list. Wanted to point out that the link you posted to Duane's tool goes to the older tool he first offered. It links to the tool that does not have the 4" steel plate and the larger 'round' piece that helps seat the bearing in place. It's odd how links can change, because I know for a fact that about a month or so back the link you had posted above did land on the tool that had the 4" plate and that larger round piece for the bearing. No biggie, just wanted you to know. And now I see Duane built a tool for the 12 ton Harbor Freight press. And just my luck, I already bought the 20 ton press. Oh well, I won't have to worry about not having enough pushing power.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the heads up on the link. I'll check it out and update it.

[@samline144]

I'm sure this will be another informative video. Keep it up. Really like what you're doing. Possible to do a episode on a head gasket? Common problem

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Sam, we will eventually perform a head gasket job on one of these rigs. It's inevitable. But, there is a guy who did an excellent video series for this job. Here's a link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKCvc4V6j7FsnKc

[@Terry-ww9tr]

ohhhhh.... head gasket would be niccee!! if we can't find a blown HG rig ... maybe some kind of internal refreshing ... cleaning pistons, replacing rings, adjusting valves yeeess yeeesss!! What else is left to do anyway ? Go Timah!!!

[@MinhBui-ni1by]

@@Terry-ww9tr 2jz swap

[@brandonfair5041]

Just did this job with the ebay tool. Worked great awesome video glad you do what you do. Thanks Timmy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's great to hear. Good job getting it done.

[@johntaylor1947]

As usual very thorough and clearly explained.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks John.

[@jonstewart7800]

Thanks Timmy for a great video. I couldn't get a straight answer from my local Toyota independent shop, or the local driveline shop, about the job. I instantly went to your KZbin selection and found exactly what I wanted to see. A 20T HF press now sits in the garage, and I look forward to ripping into my '85. Thanks for the referral to @Duane Bier. I was glad to spend the extra money for Yankee innovation and craftsmanship. Buy American!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Jon. Good luck with the job.

[@JuanRodriguez-di2je]

One of the best how to vids Ive seen!! Very very detailed. Great job guys! And thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Juan, thanks for the nice compliment. We're glad you like it and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!

[@repunzelification]

This video is so detailed. I just need to show this to my wife and my rear axle is even better than where it came from! SUBCRIBING

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you found the video helpful. Happy Wrenching!

[@fairybread6072]

@@TimmyTheToolman hi, i need the tool for a 2010 tundra 4.6l. please send a link to the correct tool. thanks

[@limaroldo100]

Perfect my friend. Regards from Brazil

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you haven't performed the job yet. Good luck! Please be sure to read the video description and comment we pinned (1st comment you see) because there's very helpful information in both.

[@nealnaz]

You have the best detailed videos. I am needing a video of a 2008 Tacoma TRD with ABS, rear bearing assembly...for Drum and Shoes, and not certain the "new" tool works as is, or requires the accessory bracket...any chance you can post another update video with that type of repair illustrated?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If we do this repair on your specific vehicle, it won’t be for a very long time. We don’t know anyone with your vehicle.

[@nealnaz]

@@TimmyTheToolman, thanks for the reply. Too bad you don't know anyone in your area with a similar vehicle. I cannot find one youtuber with a video showing the rear hub assembly replacement on my vehicle. They are all of the styles you have posted...with individual components, and one guy just explains how he took his axle to a machine shop for the hub replacement...and did not show the replacement being done at the shop. If I purchase the removal tool, I do not know the technique for replacing my own, and was hoping you could help. Can see I need the adapter plate specific to my vehicle though. I will figure out a solution, like we all have to do at some point. Happy holidays. Will see you around KZbin.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Keep us updated. Sorry we couldn’t have been a better help with this repair...

[@richarddiaz8248]

Very good video to help remove c clip I use a tie strap and stick it in the c clip and rotated around it as it’s coming up

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@richarddiaz8248 Thanks for the tip.

[@norrislaurenceiii4902]

Will Duanes tool work on a 2003 Sequoia?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Use the link we provide in the video description to be brought to Duane's Ebay store. In the product description it lists the vehicles it works for. He makes tool combos for other model and generation Toyotas so I'm guessing one of his kits will work for a Sequoia but you'll need to check it out to confirm that.

[@Texasknowhow]

Another good video. I’ll def purchase that tool set if I do rear axle bearings on any of our Toyotas. I wish he made similar tools for Ford Explorer rear axle bearing replacement!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. Message Duane on his Ebay store. Maybe he would be interested in manufacturing a tool for Ford Explorer rear axles.

[@martinparra5099]

WOW, THANK YOU GUYS FOR YOUR VERY AMAZING VIDEO

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome, Martin.

[@arbmane4377]

Would the 12 ton press from harbor freight be able to the job?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A 12 ton press might get the job done, but we recommend a 20, the bearing can really load up with a lot of force when you’re pressing it off. We’ve never tried with a 12 ton so not sure if it is strong enough.

[@arbmane4377]

Thank you!

[@michaelchertoff2900]

Did you buy a 12 ton press or 20 ton? I’m going thru the same decision right now

[@zmbombr]

I got Duanes kit for an '02 w ABS. Unfortuantely the ABS ring is too close to the hub to get the U-plate in place. So now, need to go get a ring splitter

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's weird. Somebody must have done the repair before and pushed the ABS tone ring in too deep. I've never seen it where I couldn't fit plate under the tone ring.

[@zmbombr]

Yes, I had a shop do the seals a few years ago. Interesting to see their work. I found that write up about flipping the retainers and gave it to te shop that did them they actually redid them twice within the warranty Tim cause they began leaking again. When I did them last month I found only one of the retainers was flipped, only had about 2mms of witness over lap. The other was positioned stock. The retainers and ABS rings were too far out for the red plate by about r 2mm. The HF ring splitter I got bolted up to Duanes main sleeve just fine. I did use his red plate for a press adjustment of the rings. It is a very useful kit, no regrets buying it !!

[@Steve0885]

I got the biggest kit from Duane!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Smart purchase. Thanks for buying from Duane and not the Chinese ripoff copiers.

[@pipian2yotoo1]

Where can I get this tool

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@pipian2yotoo1 Open the video description. We provide a link.

[@weekendclimber]

Damn you Timmy!! Doing this this weekend, so just bought the last unit from eBay. Said it should be here this Saturday, so hopr that holds true. Was going to try to use plates, but the engineering numbers weren't adding up for the way I wanted to do it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

So, you bought a Durasolid tool?

[@weekendclimber]

@@TimmyTheToolman Heck no!! Just bought the tool from Dwayne:-) Was going to use a method I came up with involving a threaded 1" steel plate, but the engineering math wasn't what I'd hoped after doing the calculations.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@weekendclimber Oh good. You had me worried there. Well, I guess it worked out that we got the video out in time for you to use it. Let me know how it goes for you.

[@weekendclimber]

@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. I think this will make the job go a lot easier because I was planning on taking the rear brakes apart, wheel cylinder, bell crank and all.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@weekendclimber Yeah, that's what I like about doing the job like we show in the video. You can keep the brakes completely intact for the whole job. If you do need to do the brakes due to the shoes being soaked with gear oil, you can just do it after you've got the axles back in. In case you need it, here's a video for replacing the rear shoes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3vOh3h4jriYmdU

[@Ashoud_Anobetah]

0:28 that adaptor by your right elbow was moved by a ghost...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, we do have some ghosts living with us. They like messing with us.

[@draker541]

Super helpful! just finished this job. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear you found our video helpful. Great job getting the job done and you're very welcome.

[@tongl274]

I am definitely going to buy this tool.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good choice!

[@solluna2155]

Excellent video as always Timmy , thank you so much for taking the time to this videos and teaching us man 👌💪🤘👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're welcome Brother!

[@Vang_Pride]

This is such a helpful video! I was wondering if these parts would fit the first generation tundra or are the part numbers different?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you found the video helpful. Not sure if the the 1st Tundra axles use the same parts.

[@michael184272]

Very interesting and extremely informative video..thanks so much for sharing..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you found our video informative George. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@alonsosantis6808]

Excelente explicasion,saludos desde tijuana,mexico

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gracias.

[@Danosvideos]

Timmy - Great video! I've seen a couple of yours thus far, nice job of just slowing things down and talking through the process. Curious to know... plan on demo'ing that tool with a 5th Gen 4runner?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. Yes, we would like to use the tool for a 5th Gen one day. If someone local to us hits us up, we'll help them out and make a video.

[@markreynolds3850]

Thanks for sharing this video, good job explaining things.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Mark and good to hear you like our level of explanation.

[@asaturn]

Great video. This tool is on Amazon for under $100 FYI.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a ripoff copy of our buddy Duane's design. The one for under $100 came from China and not from the USA where Duane builds his out of his home in Omaha, Nebraska. I guess you missed reading my plea in the video description to not reward the people who stole his design by buying their ripoff copy.

[@elitephans4801]

Great videos, I'm looking to buy the kit soon. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. Just know there are Chinese ripoff copies of Duane's tool. Use the link in the video to be directed to Duane's Ebay store. Please buy the tool from Duane and don't reward these a-holes who stole Duane's intellectual property. Thanks!

[@elitephans4801]

Timmy The Toolman FYI I only buy US made

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@elitephans4801 I do buy tools that I know were made in China but not in a circumstance like this when I know somebody ripped off Duane's design and started having the tools manufactured over in China. No way could I support that.

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

Your channel rocks, I'm in the east bay and my 2007 Tundra needs rear axle bearings. I was surprised when I took it apart I was expecting bearing similar to my 80 series landcruiser. During inspection I scratched the magnetic felt for my ABS sensor on the tundra I need to get new bearings pressed onto the axles Are you interested? I normally do all my own work but I don't have a press, happy to pay you for your time I would pull the axles and bring them in the Land Cruiser

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I stopped doing side jobs a long time ago. Making new videos for the channel is already a ton of work for me. To keep a balance in my life, I decided to stop doing side jobs because I was getting seriously burnt out. You can pick up a 20 ton Harbor Freight press for very little money. They always have those 20% coupons going on so you could probably pick up the press for around $150. The special axle tools our buddy Duane makes are also affordable. I say make the investment in the necessary tools. The special service axle tools you might not use much, but they will pay for itself after one use because I would charge you more than that toolset costs for my time. His toolset sells for $126. I would probably charge you $150 to do the press work for you. The press you can use for so many jobs and it's worth the expense. I've used my press a ton of times, pun intended. So, sorry, I'm not available to help you with this.

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply and advise, believe me I get it I've been an electrician for 30 years and I quit doing side work along time ago...... It's endless right I'm in contact with Duane trying to figure out which kit I should get from him for my 97 land cruiser, 2007 Tundra, and 98 Tacoma, buy once cry once right 🍻 Duane mentioned the bearing may come apparent when pressed out, I'm waiting for home to tell me which *complete" kit I should order. You're right I put off buying a press for far too long, let's get into

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@BillyGoatsAdventures @BillyGoats_Adventures Yeah, Duane will get you taken care of. We just shot a video doing a rear wheel bearing job on a 5th Gen 4runner featuring Duane's tools.

[@patryder8896]

Yo, so what all do you recommend replacing? Dust seals, bearings, o rings, inner seals axle housing? Reuse inner / outer retainers, abs skid control? In part 1 , you replace everything... wondering what parts I need to order

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You've got it right Pat. Replace everything except the 2 ABS tone rings and the 4 retainers. We replaced everything in Part 1 because Charlie came with all those parts and didn't want to try to return them. You want to order the bearings, the rubber dust seals that fit into the front side of the bearing case, the inner axle seals, the c-clips that go above the outer retainer and the large o-rings that fit on the ends of the axle housing. You'll also want to have some gear oil on hand, a couple fresh crush washers for your fill and drain plugs and maybe some new Toyota brake shoes if your shoes got contaminated with gear oil. Good luck with the job! Let me know how it goes for you.

[@sapshootervt]

How about replacing the backing plate while all this is apart...? I can't find a DIY for Toyota Tundra 1st gen. . I'm guessing disassembling all the rear brakes I'll figure it out, just thought a video would be good... ? Thank you. Subed & shared :-)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You certainly could if you wanted to. It's easy to do. Once you have the axle out, all you would have to do is drive out all 4 axle serration bolts from the bearing case, pop the bearing case free of the backing plate, disassemble the brake parts, remove the wheel cylinder and bell crank and you could swap the parts over to a new backing plate. If you're definitely going to go this route, I'd disassemble all the brake parts while the axle is still on the vehicle. The only thing you'd have to do once the axle is out is drive the serration bolts out of the bearing case and tap it out of the backing plate with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer. The bearing case should come out very easy. Our rear brake video might help you out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3vOh3h4jriYmdU

[@themechanic8195]

My backing plate is rusted out, bought a new OEM from local toyo dealer, only $45 cdn!!! WTF. I bought two just in case :)

[@Jrixi]

Thanks for putting this video together 🤜🤛

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@luiscedeno4331]

Excellent video, very detailed and helped me to make important tool investment decisions, specially regarding quality and resistance of tool materials, thank you again from Panama - Central America. TALLER LUIS CEDEÑO AUTOSERVICE Panama

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Luis. We're glad you found our video helpful. Good luck with your automotive business in Panama.

[@jswinfre]

Really appreciate you putting this out, great and informative vid! I am in the process of this job and I nudged just past the 5mm tolerance on the inner retainer, I was going for a tiny nudge with the press but it bumped past by about 1 mm, the press I'm using at a friends shop is very touchy! If I am correct, it seems I could just repeat the first part of the process of pressing the tone ring and inner retainer back by just a pinch without mucking things up or compromising the bearing?? I'll report back after making an attempt at it tomorrow but I thought it might be worth a post in case anyone else experiences the same or if you or others have any thoughts on this.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, you are correct. Just get under the ABS tone ring with your puller and pull it back 1mm. After that, do the sharpie or grease test to confirm you have a good mating of the seal with the inner retainer. The 5mm of polished axle showing is usually a good measurement to get a good mating but it does depend where you take the measurement from because the amount of polished axle showing isn't always equal around the whole circumference of the axle. One spot might show 4mm from the face of the retainer while another spot might show 5mm because the end of the polished part isn't perfectly square. The important thing is confirming a good mating of the seal with the retainer, and if it isn't good, you make the necessary adjustments of the retainer up or down to get it right.

[@josephagosta7554]

Tim, Watching this video has inspired me to take on this job on my 2002 tacoma double cab 4X4. Unfortunately I have to do this job only to replace both rear brake backing plates do heavy rust and corrosion from NJ salt roads. Might as well replace bearings and seals since everything will be apart anyway. Do you recommend I replace the rear axle bearing cases also with the rear brake plates? I haven't seen many videos on youtube for brake backing plate replacements. Thanks, Joe

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Joe, yes, I would recommend you do the bearing and seal job at the same time.

[@jamismoyify]

Hey Tim, in this video you mentioned that you can reuse both of the retainers if you flip the positions. But in the video description it refers to a comment where you suggest to buy new Inner retainers to mate up with the seal. Assuming I did the same method in this video would you recommend buying new inner retainers or can I reuse both to save money?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Buy new inner retainers based off the reason I stated in the pinned comment.

[@dsimp765]

Great video Tim & Sean.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Big D. We're glad you like it.

[@donniestockert4367]

Great video!! Just finished my assy but the tone ring doesn't look centered when axle installed. Will sensor still read tone ring?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The tone ring doesn't need to be centered on the axle hole. You're good.

[@king49334]

Make sure your rear differential vent is venting

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a good point because a blocked differential breather could be the cause of an axle seal failure. We mention this in the video description in the first video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4fLhHekrJeondE

[@1963Treeman]

Tim, always love your videos! Thanks for introducing the new tool! I have a 2002 Tundra (non-ABS) with 154,000 miles and know it's only a matter of time before I have to replace the bearings. Three questions. Of all the bearing that you replaced what was the #1 symptom? Second, I have only one retainer. Since I can't switch retainers should I replace it? Lastly, if I need to replace the drum backing plate, rusting away, can I do it after the axle shaft is pressed out of the bearing? Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear you like our channel. The sign to replace the bearings has always been a leaking axle seal. When the seal starts leaking, it's best to just go ahead and replace the bearing. The reason is it's possible a worn bearing contributed to the seal failure. Some people have just replaced the seal and readjusted or flipped the retainer to get a good mating with the seal and have gotten more miles out of the bearings. But, this was on ABS rear ends. For you to get the retainer off the axle on your non-ABS rear end, you need to press the axle shaft out and that puts a tremendous load on the bearing and it should not be reused at that point. If you wanted to reuse the bearings, you couldn't use the redesigned Toyota seals. You would have to use an aftermarket seal that keeps the seal lip in the same spot as the original Toyota seal to get a good mating with the retainer. However, I share the opinion with most people though and think it's just smart to spend the money and replace the bearings while you have the axles out. Since you only have one retainer, I would suggest replacing it. For your application, you absolutely have to flip the retainer if you're going to use the new Toyota seal. If you don't flip it, you will not get a good mating with the seal. We have a video for this job for a non-ABS rear end so be sure to watch it. Once the axle is out, yes, you can replace the brake backing plates. You would need to have all 4 serrated bolts knocked out and then you can grab a mallet and knock out the bearing case from the backing plate. Then, you just get your bearing case into the new back plate and get your 4 serrated bolts pulled back in.

[@turnah8242]

Hey Timmy, I'm in the middle of replacing seals, bearings, etc.,. Cleaning everything up right now and am going to do the press work tomorrow. I've watched the video 5/6 times but I wanted to be for sure on something. So when you install the new seals, is it going in dry with no white lithium, red general grease, black MOLY, spray teflon, etc.? Thank you in advance for any input you can give me.

[@catwhisperer3974]

Very informative video! A big thumbs up on describing everything! Does Duanes tool work for a 1998 land cruise (100 series) axle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Nickolas Hansen Check Duane’s Ebay store. I’m not sure if it works for 100 series land cruisers. Glad you like the video.

[@martinlavoie4002]

Nice tool adapter from Buddy I will look into getting these tools I have done only one bearing but I think it might be worth getting. Did you think perhaps instead of unscrewing the bottle jack couldn’t you use some spacer?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We do adjust the bottle jack screw bar during this job. The first step is choosing the right level for the press cross bar and then adjusting the screw bar on the jack to get it closer to the material we're pressing.

[@monkeyspank2270]

Having never owned a press and I will need to get one soon to perform this job on my 4runner. I noticed you have the 20 ton press, any reason to get it over the 12 ton press (both at Harbor freight)? Again no experience with a press before so I was not sure if the larger tonnage press was the way to go over the lighter tonnage press. Thanks again for the great information and videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Get the 20 ton because it will be more versatile for you. If you ever have to do front wheel bearings, those bearings require a lot of force and I don't know if a 12 ton would do the job.

[@kearsarge6658]

I'm probably just dumb, but the parts list like the "Toyota Genuine Inner Right Hand Rear Axle Bearing Retainer" is showing up as incompatible with a 2000 4runner. Is this accurate? Great video either way!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those retainers are the same for any 3rd Gen 4runner axle. There is a difference in the bearing for the 2001 and 2002 compared to 1996 - 2000.

[@kearsarge6658]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks just wanted to make sure.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@kearsarge6658 No problem.

[@ericbrown6802]

Hey there Timmy. Do you ever plan on doing front wheel bearings on any of your 4 runners? I plan on tackling them soon. I've heard they are a major pain. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We show the needed steps in our Manual Hub Swap videos Part 1 & 2. Those videos will show you everything you need to replace wheel bearings on your rig. Watch Part 1 to learn how to remove and replace the knuckles; Watch Part 2 to learn how to do the press work on a sett of A.D.D . knuckles.

[@ericbrown6802]

Timmy The Toolman yea I just saw those right after making this comment and watched them both. Exelent videos. The only ones I could find on the internet anywhere. Thank you so much!! Always look forward to watching your videos. The valve cover gasket one really helped me out also with how you include part numbers and your little tricks. They are very much appreciated. Keep up the good work

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ericbrown6802 You're welcome Eric.

[@mookett]

Hey Timmy great video i had my bearings changed by a garage in uk only 3 months later 1 seal was leaking took it back and they said it was a bad seal and replaced it fast foreward 9 months both seals leaking i think the inner retainers are not in the right place could they be ripping up the seals after a few months or maybe on to far .Great idea with the sharpie .Hilux mk5 uk model . Thanks Timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sounds like they don't have the proper mating of the inner retainer and seal. Bring it back and ask them to perform a sharpie test right in front of you so you can see for yourself where it is riding. Or, pull the axles yourself and you do the sharpie test.

[@mookett]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy ill have a go myself now i know how its done thanks mate

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mookett You're welcome. Good luck with the job.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I wouldn't use certain grease like high temp bearing and race grease is way to tackey it actually causes the dust boot to loosen and spin while the axle is spinning in diff I had my brakes off and re inserted the axle and notice while truck was on jack stands and in gear if the grease is way to tackey it actually allows the dust boot to spin with the axle separately and eventually the dust boot walked itself out so my suggestion would be to grab the red devil grease because it's not as tackey as axle and bearing grease and use the red devil sparingly if you have to use high temp extremely tackey bearing and race grease use it very Minimally just my experience for others @timmy the toolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's interesting about the dust boot. I find it odd the dust boot could spin. It fits in really tight and there literally zero loud on that seal. Nothing contacts it. Something isn't adding up here. I've pulled axles that I've done work on and the dust seals were fully seated and didn't walk out. On every dust seal installation, I use a little of the multipurpose Red Devil grease to help with the insertion.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman I belive the high temp grease is way to tackey and it makes the dust boot slippery and causes it to spin slowly and it walks itself out I watched it with the axle spinning walk out I belive way to tackey grease makes the seal slick and the vibration of the axle turning causes it could of been my fault might of used to much grease on the high temp tackey bearing grease because when i re did the axle work again with the red devil not a single issue

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@AntonioClaudioMichael Gotcha, this is good to know. I guess I was using the right grease the whole time luckily. I just like applying grease where I can so it will make future removal much easier. You can obviously insert those dust seals without the help of grease. I've just had those damn things fight me pretty good when I'm trying to pull them out with some pliers.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman mine fought me with the high temp grease I originally used I think that is why it spun and walked out because it being so tackey to much grease came out the jar even though I grabbed a tinny amount it was so tackey it stuck to itself so bad it strung and more ended up coming along then I wanted super tackey grease is like mozzarella cheese a little amount goes way to far

[@johnsricke7236]

I'm gonna need to swap out bearings at some point but how will I know when they go bad , my make noise going down the road and my FJ has 124k . When ever I changed the oil and lube the prop shaft I place the rig on jack stands and start it up and put it in gear . I then place a stephyscope on the bearing blocks to listen for any noise . None yet . My question is how many miles are the original bearings worth ? The fronts are worth about 80k . Awesome video ..

[@johnsricke7236]

It appears that a FJ cruiser assembly is way easier because it has fewer parts , at least 2 less . I'm gonna keep that puller . Thanks again .

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey John, it's hard to say how long they will last on your FJ. I know for 3rd Gen 4runners, it's not the bearings that go bad first but the axle seals and then most people go ahead and replace the bearings at the same time. It's interesting you said the front wheel bearings only last around 80k. On a 3rd Gen 4runner, they can last for much longer. My 2000 4runner has 200k and the front bearings are still fine.

[@johnsricke7236]

@@TimmyTheToolman The front went south ,or the front right side did . So I just did both . The press work was 40$ per . I wasn't going to risk wrecking the bearings so I ponied up . There appears to be just a snap ring and retainer on a FJ , the abs part is built into the bearing module . Toyota makes them right , I bought mine in May of 06 and it still has the original Panasonic battery , I live in Ohio , that says a lot . Thanks for responding to my blabbing , really appreciate your time .

[@keithbrown1914]

Hi Tim, Thank you for your videos, So many of these tasks would seem impossible to do without the detailed guidance you put together. I have a 98 4Runner, and my rear bearing is leaking so badly.. it's like a waterfall in there. No question I need to do this or have it done. Do you know if this tool works on the 12 Ton HF press that I have access to (as opposed to the referenced 20Ton)? I assume the clearance is the issue as opposed to the tonnage...12 ton has Working distance: 1-3/4 in. to 25-1/2 in. Thanks in advance, Keith

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I think I remember hearing that the tool doesn't fit between the cross member on the 12 ton model. Do you already own the 12 ton model? If you don't, the 20 ton is worth the extra expense because it can handle all the pressing jobs on your rig. The front wheel bearings require a ton of force and I don't know if the 12 ton model would be up to the task.

[@keithbrown1914]

My Friend has the 12T, I was hoping I could use his. Thanks for getting back to me so fast!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@keithbrown1914 Yeah, you could get the tool and see if it works but I wouldn't tear your rig apart until you see the tool will fit between the cross member brace.

[@desiandsonautocare2346]

To Tim and Duane Bier. Thank you guys for this helpful video. I am new to this face book stuff. Im really trying to find the abs barring puller and press kit. If any one knows how and where i can get this kit please let me know. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We provide the link to Duane's Ebay Store in the video description. You just have to click "Show More" after the beginning couple sentences of the video description and it will expand out to all kinds of helpful information.

[@leonardchinguri9288]

Thanks very much, guys. How much is the toolset?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We provide a link to Duane's Ebay store in the video description. You can expand the video description by clicking on "Show More".

[@rob8804]

Hi Timmy, Long time listener, first time caller. I am in the process of doing the rear wheel bearings and seals. When I put the arm puller down the shaft to connect to the crowfoot, the puller doesn't clear the retainer to rest on the tone ring.Therefor the crews are not long enough to grab the crowsfoot. Am I missing something here? Thanks in advance.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What puller are you using? The one Duane makes has an inner diameter big enough to fit over the retainer.

[@rob8804]

Looks like the bore in the arm is 1/16 shy to cover the retainer. Might have to fab something . Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@rob8804 Was this the tool featured in this video?

[@OceansideCreations]

Do you recommend I do both seals. I hear only the drivers side leaks?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That is not true. Both sides can leak. You should do both.

[@nickcraig2417]

Im about to do mine on a trd tacoma is there no extra step with the locker ie leave it unlocked ??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You would want you e-locker unlocked for this job. Hope the job goes smooth for you.

[@nickcraig2417]

Awsome thank you so much.love your content btw thanks for all the videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@nickcraig2417 You're very welcome Nick.

[@nickcraig2417]

Another question my abs sensor is stuck and channce i can do it without removing it

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@nickcraig2417 If you're going to do the complete job, the ABS tone ring needs to come off for you to be able to replace the bearing.

[@christomy3981]

I have a 2008 and trying to remove rear wheel bearings and retainer. In having trouble finding the tools I need exactly. Anyway you can drop the links in the comment. Also I'm using a do it yourself shop what is the clearance height for the press to fit the axle in it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We have links to the tools used in the video description. As for the clearance height for the press, I'm not sure what you mean. The Harbor Freight press we have is adjustable and I imagine any press you would use would be adjustable. For different parts of the process, you need to adjust the height of the press.

[@jimmypage4162]

What were the symptoms prior to this job? I have a ‘95 4Runner V6 4X4 auto..just did head gaskets decked heads new in&exh valves, valve seats,guides, valve adjustments..I have a pretty bad vibration especially upon de acceleration around 60-75. Already did front upper control arm bushings and wheel bearings adjusted, had quite a bit of play before bearing adjustments… the vibration can only be felt from the body, your seat. No through the steering wheel.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The symptoms are usually people identify that the rear axle seal is failed by seeing a spray of gear oil on the inside of one of the rear tires. The gear oil got past the seal, made it's way through the bearings and then made it's way into the brakes. A bad wheel bearing can make kind of a growling noise and other noises depending on how bad they get. Have you checked your rear driveshaft u-joints. The symptoms sound to me like you have a u-joint going bad or maybe the output shaft bearing on the transfer case is going bad.

[@topangachronic9463]

You're a great teacher

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment.

[@edvingarcia2245]

Where can I buy that tool.? Good video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Check the video description.

[@williambirch2498]

Hi Timmy, great videos, thanks for the help. Working on my '99 with 485k miles with repeat drivers side seal leaks through the years. After completing the install of all new toyota parts - bearing, retainers, ABS sensor (and unfortunately a new axle due to the same dealership grooves from grinding as Matt O from earlier comments). We noticed the new bearing still has some considerable play. When the axle assembly is upright, I measured 2- 2.5 mm of wobble or runout on the outer edge of the backing plate. It seems extreme for a new bearing. Is this normal? I have a few pics and a 5 second video clip I could send to show you. Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The new bearings have play. It's normal.

[@renonv8178]

Tim, Another great video! The problem with my (original) axle is that the polished/unpolished boundary/line is not straight. I brought a print out of the FSM page where it shows the 122mm measurement from the face of the axle hub on page SA-84 of the FSM but the independent shop that is pressing my parts does the measurement from the spline. Do you happen to have the measurement from the spline side? Or do I just tell them to put the retainer in the specified location but flipped? Is the original position at 5mm polished showing? Thanks!

[@caseymoore5472]

Darn I could have grabbed a measurement for you but I'm typing this with greasy hands as I just reinstalled the second axle on my 99 tacoma. I also had problems with the polished surface being uneven and even though I measured about 5 mm on the first axle I did ended up with closer to 5.5mm on the "high" side and seal wasn't centered. The second axle I pressed on closer to 4.5mm but it was still too far out and the seal wasn't riding centered. I slightly pulled the abs and retainer off and re-pressed it and found that a min. 4 mm was closer to centered for the seal. If it isn't too much trouble or extra cost I'd recommend pressing it short and bringing it home to check and taking it back if necessary. I wouldn't necessarily trust a measurement from the face of hub because the bearing (w/axle) can slide out slightly when picking up assembly (as you see in the removal process where you have to bang the axle against a board to get the tool on). If you still have the axle with the old retainers on and the new seals are installed can you run a grease test to see where the seal rides on the old retainer location? If so you could take the measurement to center of seal and subtract half the retainer thickness. (Disclaimer: This is my first time working on a rear axle so I could have ef'd something else up)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The polished surface on the axle is slightly uneven but that's ok. It still works to get you really close. Maybe start at 4mm polished axle showing and perform the grease or sharpie test. What you see from that first test will tell you if you need to press the retainer on further or keep it where it's at. 4-5mm of polished axle showing is generally where it ends up placing the seal lip dead center on the retainer. I have never used measurements like the factory service manual specifies. The key to getting this right is to double check your work and make sure you have a good seal to retainer mating by performing the grease or sharpie test. Since you're using a shop for the press work, I'd ask them to have 5mm of polished axle showing and you're going to be fine.

[@ericcarter2297]

Hey Tim, do you have another link for the tool?. When I click on the one listed Ebay says it can't find it????

[@ericcarter2297]

I just saw your update, i contacted him via Yahoo. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ericcarter2297 No problem

[@TimmyTheToolman]

By the way, thanks for the heads up on this issue. I updated the tool link in all our videos. I appreciate it.

[@artjury7564]

So the bearings on a 2006 are diferent than the ones listed on here correct? Do you have a listing for the 2006 tundra 4wd? so you get some pay or should I just order my own? Are the dust covers etc all the same? I dont like amazon but If you get paid this way I want to support you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Art, I'm not sure they are the same. You should double check before ordering. Order from who you're comfortable with. Don't worry about us. McGeorge Toyota seems to have pretty good prices.