£1000 AliExpress Carbon road bike build - Disc brake

[@TraceVelo]

Absolutely LOVING the number of baguettes in the chat 🥖🥖🥖 You guys are the best 🥰

[@sepg5084]

I hope you can get some rubber boot cable covers on the brake calipers

[@brygry]

@@sepg5084 exactly what I was thinking when I saw those. Could extend the life of the cables and housings by preventing road crud from getting in there.

[@Angel_EU34]

"Ciclista" in spanish form Spain it's with a harder "Th" like in "Thing" Also i didn't know Siroko was from my country! :O It makes sense tho, Spain is a PARADISE for cycling (and motorbike riding!). You should come with one of your bikes someday Luke! (No idea how much Ryanair could charge for the bike tho... 🤔)

[@brygry]

@@Angel_EU34 I'm not sure if Ali express sells plane tickets

[@roadcyclingchannel1529]

Trace could you do a show on cheap carbon seat posts 🥖🥖🥖

[@mikeymike1792]

I swear I saw you out on the roads near Wallingford, south of Oxford, recently. I saw a flash of black and yellow and desperately wanted to shout LUUUUKE, but couldn't be certain.

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah that might have been me actually, I was down there on this bike visiting my nan on the 17th i think...

[@jimbrittain402]

Luke, your efforts are a gift to the cycling community. Thanks for this video, and for all the stuff you do. 🥖 And now I know how to find the damn baguette.

[@TraceVelo]

You had me at baguette 🥖🥖🥖

[@brygry]

You should tightly wrap the steerer tube with masking tape where you're cutting. It will make the carbon stands stay together and be cut, stopping those odd ones you had from tearing out.

[@Utaheyelid]

Or get a proper carbon specific hacksaw blade.

[@MashO356]

Or score a line with a sharpe blade around the tube first.

[@kosskrit]

@@Utaheyelid nooo that's boring.

[@avoycendeether8869]

For those interested, this is the frame I've been riding (purchased on aliexpress) since 2018...but I have a rim brake setup.

[@valmorell]

Surely the issue with filing and drilling the cable entry points relates to the fact that the cable outer is not meant to run thru the frame, but rather, stop at the entry point with only the naked cable running thru the frame inside those tubes left in there at manufacture? This is how the shift cables on my Giant Revolt are run.

[@jackriley1989]

Another lavishly long 40min video. It's like you know we've got nothing better to do. Great content as always!

[@TraceVelo]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Omar411269]

This guy's commitment to building budget carbon bikes is like ASMR... I can watch this content all freakin day!! 🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@malz3836]

Recently there seems to be quite a lot of videos appearing on KZbin doing the same type of content, but you’re always one step ahead with more detail. Very entertaining and inspirational content. Let’s see what you make of the Ride Now tubes, I been using them for 2 months with no issues so far.👍

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Malz! But yeah ive been really impressed with the RideNow tubes so far. They ride well, and seem pretty puncture resistant, but time will tell i guess. Good to hear you have had a good experience with them!

[@CarlForde]

@@TraceVelo my RideNow tubes arrived today. No problems installing them. The trick seems to be inflating them just enough so they hold shape and then set them in the rim channel. After that it was easy. 🥖 ps. I ride with 2 spare tubes, total weight savings: 345g. :-)

[@sszibler]

@@TraceVelo Are they latex, thermoplastic elastomer, or another plastic?

[@not-a-raccoon]

Baguettes for all!! 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@agustinburgos8074]

Hey man! to prevent rubbing on the frame with those naked cables use the plastic cable guides( clear ones that come with the frame) in that section, I have seen specialized bikes coming like that way as well!

[@robbeelsas]

Indeed! Jagwire sells it for their modular cable systems but you might as well just use it to prevent damaging the frame here

[@manji001]

Cool build, and awesome video as always!! a tip on cutting the steerer tube: i used 2 old stems. mark the level on the steerer tube, plae one stem under it, and one just above. the gap in the middle will be where the saw blade will slot in, and just cut away ^_^ It might help prevent carbon fiber splinters too ^_^

[@TraceVelo]

This is GENIUS!!!! I have a couple of old stems knocking about in the drawer, definitely doing this the next time, thanks VeloPinephrine 😊

[@manji001]

@@TraceVelo You're Most welcome! 😁

[@jamesbarber6375]

🥖 that handlebar combo scares the life out of me! It looks like it wants to snap straight out of the box.

[@jimhize]

This video is only a few hours old and already it makes me nostalgic for when a pound was worth more than a fraction over a dollar

[@markvonwisco7369]

During my trip to the UK about 15 years ago, the GDP to USD exchange rate was around $1.70. As an American, it would be a good time visit Europe.

[@sasharaught8159]

Loved your video, as I have all of your videos but I was distressed not to see a seat post section lol. I recently bought a carbon complete bike from Sensah Empire, and wouldn't you know... I bought it off Aliexpress! Over here in the states, it seems as though buying a carbon bike, from anywhere, you'll have to wait until, at least mid 2023, n pay quite the exorbitant price. My only option then, was a slow ship from China! It took 40 days but my main complaint? You guessed it! The damn seat post keep falling in! This was, actually how I discovered you! No matter what I did it wouldn't stay up. That was until I found your video wherein you mentioned just such an issue. Then I had to find the video mentioned in the video where you mentioned it the 2nd time, 1st time for me (that sentence does make sense). I had a difficult time, for I did possess the plastic you mentioned, but there wasn't quite enough room. Once done (to the best of my ability) the post got stuck several cm too high. So out I went without tightening it, n checking it every couple minutes. After about 30km of bouncing and checking I was nearly in place, n so I tightened it, and everything has been great ever since. I must thank you again! But now that I've been through such a terrible and harrowing setup fiasco, I want you to mention, good or ill, every seat post installation you do, in all your videos! Thanx again!

[@jackriley1989]

On the cables contacting the resin internally, looks like a prime candidate for using those lightweight plastic inner liners that come standard inside frames and bars. Even more fiddly but so worth it.

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah i think you could be onto something with this actually... But im gonna leave it for a few hundred miles, and see if its actually an issue. But this could be a fix for sure!

[@martiniudica5997]

I have a Cinelli frame and the liners from the bottom bracket to the derailleurs are actually meant to be used that way so it might be the same thing here..

[@herminio001]

Thanks for the video, it actually inspired me to build my first road bike but I went a different route. I got an Gray cycling aluminum frame instead with external routing, E90 carbon fork, Sensah SRX Pro Groupset, Elite Wheels ENT Carbon Deep 60mm wheelset, ZTTO cable actuated Hydraulic Brakes and rotors, Zeroing 48T Crankset, ZTTO 11 speed 9-42 Cassete and chain. I reused sparre parts laying around ro compete the bike. I am very happy with this build. Keep up the good work.

[@ShoyShoy1980]

Hi Luke, awesome video! I know you mentioned torque a lot, any chance you can make a video on tightening all the components to the correct spec?

[@janrasmussen8144]

Really great video, showing people without 10K to build for can still get a great bike! stop beating yourself up, we love what you do, so cut the bad comments about yourself please :)

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Jan! But yeah I'm only kidding around, i do love a bit of self deprecation, i think it comes wth being English 😂 Gald you liked the build though!!!

[@jeltecorts]

Luke, for the bottom bracket cable routing you can buy a plastic piece to guide the cable routings, preventing it rubbing the frame.

[@brookegravitt4117]

🥖 I stayed to the end, Luke. Sweet build - I'd seriously been considering picking up an Elves frame, but this looks an even cheaper, more zany idea. I'm in.

[@boyacki]

Thank god you released this today!! your work ALWAYS makes my day, not least for humour but for detail, inspiration and to weaken my resolve against Siroko gear... it's good stuff! really good stuff !! gives me so much hope and motivation to DIY like i use to as a young man so thank you for the invigoration! love the work and please, more!!

[@Stuartrusty]

🥖🥖 Top build and great insights. A few words of caution about using heatshrink on the ends of cables. 1, Heatshrink tubing generally doesn't have much mechanical grip and in my experience usually comes of after a few weeks, especially in winter. 2, If you are using heatshrink tubing, buy the glue lined stuff and once you have shrunk it to the cable and while it's still hot, pinch the end of the tubing with a small pair of point nosed pliers to prevent water wicking up the inside of the tubing into the end of the cable. 3, Buy a small heat gun with temperature setting for shrinking the tubing, often naked flames either will burn the tubing, bubbling the surface rendering it useless, or not shrinking it enough. 🥖🥖

[@Dermiezz]

These videos are excellent! Each one gives me more and more confidence to go out and try this for myself, which is truly commendable so thank you! I do miss the old intros the police sketches were golden! Cheers Luke

[@AndreasMic]

Hey Luke! I have the same design under my bottom bracket with the cables rubbing against the frame! I fixed it by using a little piece of that guide tube that the bike comes for the cables inside the frame! I used just a little piece like 10cm so now the cable slides inside the tube instead of rubbing against the frame 😉

[@markkeaton8132]

I had that problem also and it caused my cable to fray. Explaining it to someone was unbelievably difficult. A lot of people(me) don't even notice until their cable is shreaded. Finding it on line is impossible. I think I ended up improvising something also. Gonna flip my trusty Motobecane over tomorrow and see what I did.

[@chris1275cc]

Great build, never felt I needed a "Disc" road bike but I'm very tempted by this just to give me the option, shame Lt-woo haven't fixed the shifting from the drops, for me it was a deal breaker with the R9's I tried. Bit of advice (because I can't help myself): When you next cut a carbon steerer, pic up a "Tungsten Carbide Hacksaw Blade" Its exactly what ParkTool sell, Silverline and a few other budget tool company's sell them for about £4. Use a cheap aluminium stem with a lose spacer on top as a saw guide, and cut a ring/grove all the way around before sawing through from one side this will prevent splintering.

[@chris1275cc]

Almost forgot: 🥖

[@BurntToast1]

🥖 Great video Luke! You’ve inspired a couple of my bike projects over the last couple of years and currently doing a gravel build (Chinese chromoly steel frame rather than carbon). Thanks for your videos, projects, analysis and honesty when it comes to reviews. Keep ‘em coming!

[@TraceVelo]

Cheers Burnt7oast!!! Glad you found my stuff helpful!

[@jasonkroll9532]

I don't have or ride road bikes , only mtb bmx ..but theses build vids are awesome. . Thinking of doing a roadbike ..lol

[@ilikewasabe]

Oh man the parts rundown alone is a goldmine! Gave me hope to build a similar setup of my own 🥹🥹

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Wasabe!

[@BikesKomsCRO]

Considering empire sensah groupset when I have to upgrade few ultegra r8000 items.. The price is wroth a try imho.. Just worried Very about the lack of hydraulic breaks.. Shimano were great. I'm 95kg and 195cm so need good breaks

[@VitaminD8000]

Great video! Personally i would really recommend a good set of tyres. For me 12£ Prime labelled tyres just seem really untrustworthy. Regular Conti GP5000 are just so good, they almost roll by themselves and have good puncture protection.

[@shannonstrobel6727]

I prefer Contis on my bikes as well. decent rolling resistance (or lack thereof), good value for the money and tend to last a good long while

[@javiercastaneda707]

I've been on those Prime tires for 4+ years. Love them, minimal flats, and last as long if not longer than the brand name ones.

[@jhoff80]

Those hoods on the Ltwoo look like they fit a thousand times better than the garbage ones on my Sensah Empire Pro.

[@chrisobyrne5675]

Fitted my Ridenow TPU tubes earlier this week, only done circa 100k on them but they feel great. Running them with 30mm Conti GP5000’s. Super fragile so installation is a delicate process!

[@SubversionGarage]

You can use a pair of old grip clamps as guides for trimming bars or forks

[@steveindorset]

🥖 Yes Luke some of us do watch you vids to the end. I think given the strength of the pound and yet more crazy bike prices ahead I think your vids about budget bike builds will become the norm for most people. 🥖🥖🥖😁😎👍🏻

[@TraceVelo]

Ha! Yeah I think you are right, looking at the value of the pound the last few days, seems like we are in for a bumpy ride over the next year or so....

[@steveindorset]

@@TraceVelo and it’s all your fault! With the amount of imported goods you’ve bought from Ali Express, you’ve single handedly subsided the balance of payments and crashed the pound! I recon you should build me a bike free of charge, as a penance for your recklessness!! 😎👍🏻

[@paulmanias8269]

🥖 Now I feel like I need to check all of your videos to make sure that I didn't miss anything at the very end! That's a key bit of information you dropped after what seemed to be the final commercial.

[@Dreamweaver94]

While I ended up buying an older aluminum Cervelo TT frame to build, the Chinese frames and these kinds of videos definitely inspired me to build my own bike.

[@Rowdyness11]

Another great vid as usual!👌 Another little tip I use after cutting the excess gear cable is simply a dab or 2 of clear nail polish -nothing else! 'Keeps the cut end from fraying & there's nothing to remove if you want to pull the cable through/out to clean or replace the housing/outer👍🥖

[@RoncoGarage]

Petition here to give to Luke a few end caps 😄 I love your content, as always Luke!

[@domestique3954]

I guess it’s not the bar flexing,but the tower of Spacers might cause problems when it comes to disc brakes,because the brake forces are applied much nearer to the Hub. With a non-integrated cockpit you would able to choose an upward stem. A steerer tube should always be kept as short as possible to avoid vibrations. Also you can see that these spacers are not really in line-probably you can fix this issue with some more precise built spacers-best solution would be a 4 cm long single spacer. Also i highly recommend using copper paste instead of grease,it will keep water away and the thread/screw friction is more stable. In conclusion you have proven how much the bike industry scams their customers. This might be a problem for the offspring as cycling always has been an expensive sport,but today you need to invest like a new middle class car worth of material.

[@barneybrightbart7080]

I love that you showed how tough working with these inexpensive, internally routed frames is. But I also appreciate your own satisfaction in your clever hacks and modifications. Two small thoughts: you might run your derailleur cables through inner cable housing underneath the bottom bracket to alleviate the cutting that will otherwise occur. Second, that front derailleur might be too stiff for that light lever. I'm sure you have another that requires less torque. In my case, I replaced my Sensah front derailleur with a Campy Super Record front; it ended up working so much better with the Sensah lever.

[@remitournier2526]

🥖🥖🥖For the cables underneath the bb, you can try using the teflon liners that come with the frame, it creates a nice sheath and is pretty smooth. You'll have to recable anyways because of the cracked bars ;)

[@SiParengBen]

Lol

[@abedfo88]

ive always used the teflon liners too, never had a problem. Shifting is fine

[@keithmorlen4907]

🥖

[@ceejo8075]

great idea, gotta get myself some of those heat tube to replace my cable ends, bartape, rim tape, cable housing and inner tubes? :)

[@thesakeofawesomeness]

Great video! Absolute bummer the handlebars broke 🥖

[@electronicsheep538]

Yeah, I was contemplating buying one of those once I saw them, but I'm glad I watched until the end... 🥖

[@peterevans5062]

I've used one of your Siroko links. I did get a 10% discount, and a few days later it was delivered at home. Good quality material, I'm impressed. 🥖

[@tinman7551]

Incredible review Luke. Absolutely invaluable. Thank you 🙏🏻 🥰😁

[@TraceVelo]

No problem tinMan!!!!

[@geyoda64]

@@TraceVelo 🥖

[@george.carlin]

24:45 for this, I used so called oscillating saw or dremel or some people call it multitool. It's goes very easy through carbon, no need to take the fork out of the frame even. I put the bike down on the old blanket outside and with the help of a dust mask, worked slow and steady and it made a perfect cut.

[@Crossers76]

The plastic cable tubes which came pre-installed should have been left on with your inner cables running through them. It wouldn't have to run directly on the carbon around the BB. This is why they are pre-fitted.. The bars are lethal though!!!

[@ChrisLowden]

🥖 always finish off the videos! Your content is great! Keep it up.

[@Zeben84]

You are supposed to let the stock cable guide in the frame and use them as cable housing in the frame so it's not rubing on the carbon and it's easier. This doesnt explain why the holes are not big enough if you want to pass a hoose for hydro disc tho ^^

[@Evaso_CC]

An old stem works well as a guide to cut against when cutting steerer. Can also clamp the stem in a vice, to avoid clamping the steerer. Just don’t use your actual stem! My experience of the RideNow tubes has been good. They make excellent spares. They are a bit tricky to install, but they do have a line on them to ensure it doesn’t go in twisted. Also genuinely 34 grams!

[@kelvindavison3314]

A bit of a shocking end! What a plot twist. 😉🥖 Glad you are sharing this stuff, warts and all Luke and thanks for another cracking video. I always look forward to another release from your studio.

[@MagicFrisby]

🥖. Thanks for the wieght comparison to standard components in the beginning.

[@seanlynchcycling8044]

Thumbs up for cheap Chinese bike builds👍👍 I'd love to see more of these. Mtb, Gravel and bmx builds also welcomed. Keep up the good work 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@jerem9583]

Great build once again Luke 🥖 Always a pleasure to see your passion and those new gravel wheels looks sick !!

[@bazanderson8283]

you got me sussed out right at the start my dude - I jumped straight to the meat and potatoes, ie weight and cost 😂 thanks for sharing 🙏

[@bsbbernal]

I have watched your videos over and over again in anticipation of the parts that I'm getting. (which was because of you, of course)

[@VTMADDIE]

As someone who despises the colour yellow, I have to admit, you did a great job with that spraypaint.

[@FPLMikkel]

🥖🥖🥖 Next build you should try the vacuum trick to get your cabling sorted. More in line with the cheap prions rather than special tools. Could also be easier as you avoid dragging it over all the rough parts wit a magnet? Just tape over all the holes besides the one you are cabling through and then use a vacuum to suck a string through :) Anyway, love the build!

[@mclarenf1V12]

Man-Crush LOL. You're so great at this! Super nice build! Thanks for your excellent work!

[@josephlatuscha8043]

You will want to use a piece of cable inner liner in that bottom bracket area for the shift cables. Those cables will absolutely cut through that carbon over time.

[@jorgeeduardozamoraacosta8627]

I'm testing de sensah empire pro 2 x 12 with the oversize pulley wheel. At the moment, I'm pretty impressed by the overall performance of the groupset.

[@blackfi12e622]

🥖. Love the ultra budget build. Stands out in the current market of ultra expensive and overpriced bikes.

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks, glad you liked it 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@johnwolff1043]

For cutting the fork steerer life is a lot easier if you use an old stem and just use that as your guide to cut straight.

[@SteveKimbo]

🥖🥖🥖 I love these videos. I'm so glad you're willing to risk life and limb to test these parts so the rest of us know what to buy 😂

[@johnp8092]

Love your work Luke. I bought and installed the LTWOO Group set onto my trainer which originally sported Shimano Ultegra. So I will be transferring the Ultegra to my new Chinese ICAN TRIAERO A9. I have found the same as yourself with the LTWOOs. Great value for the money but a little clunky. Just as you reported the front derailleur is very stiff and i fear the plastic shifter will snap eventually. Glad to hear it you found it gets better in time. Thx again. JP

[@aveedub7403]

Luke, bin the chain, I had one fracture on me a few months ago while pulling out onto a busy dual carriageway, thankfully not much traffic and I narrowly avoided a face plant. Got home and cleaned chain to find that a good number of side plates had cracked by the rivets! This wasnt a cheap chain either, binned it strait away and replaced with new Shimano tiagra! Take care and for goodness sake bin the chain!!

[@the66dom]

🥖🥖 I’ve had 4 RXL SL bars, no stem, and am 3/4. The one that failed didn’t stay in place at 4nm and cracked at 5nm. 🤷‍♂️ The other 3 have been great with a few thousand miles on each.

[@davidbidwell250]

love the build and review and the fact you are taking the risk on these components for our entertainment 🥖

[@allyp7]

great video as always. looking forward to seeing how you get on with the juin tech GT brakes. i fancy them for my gravel build!

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah i'm really interested to see how they perform! But tbh, they will have to be pretty freaking spectactualr to justify the price!

[@Capitaineaa]

Thankyou for the reviews! I'm FINALLY pulling the trigger myself. I've been a quiet fan for a couple of years. The time is now, the call for 🥖 as been made. The french Will answer the call!!

[@jeremyfoster3803]

Absolutely love the videos, with the dark nights drawing in would be interested to see what's your thoughts on Aliexpress led bike lights.

[@TraceVelo]

There is only one bike light i ever use now. It's the enfitnix navi 800, absolutely incredible bike light!

[@ohne_speed]

Steerer tube cut tips: Tape it around, then cut it a millimeter deep the whole way around so it wont flake. Also you can use a crappy stem for guide too.

[@gatopirao]

35:51 Cables at the BB will defo eat into the carbon and saw it. I had this happen to me and it wasn't the cable directly rubbing the frame but rather the cable housing so you can imagine what the raw cable friction will do there in little time. Plastic or nylon guides are required. I am no @Hambini engineer but you can trust me there.

[@george.carlin]

26:00 to avoid such a shame, one can work all 360 degrees, all circle around. First go around cutting about 1mm depth. Then, one can make a deeper cut but doing one side at a time, turning fork 90 degrees each time if you use clamp/vice or just flip it to the other side if you don't use vice.

[@carlwilliams9624]

I haven't yet watched this top notch entertaining episode but I just want to say I purchased Siroko cycle glasses a few years ago and was totally shocked when I purchased them at 10am Tuesday morning and they arrived 1pm Wednesday..... Spain to Ireland in supersonic speed... BUT..... skip on a few years.... I purchased my new glasses March 17th this year and they arrived September 10th..... By this time I had received a total refund so glasses were free but WOW ..... Never the less I can't deny Siroko quality vrs price is fantastic ... And I'm very tempted to go again and buy some clothes with the money I saved on the glasses.... Anyway ..... look forward to watching this video very soon .... Now back to luke in the studio....

[@mikeypalmer3977]

Another fantastic video. You prove there is another option to spending many thousand $ for an established brand bike

[@318ishonk]

As for handlebars I prefer the un-drilled versions like the bontrager xxx copies. Light and robust w/o built-in "crack points"

[@davidkirkby5218]

🥖 just finished my own build, bought a cheap boardman gravel frame, and bought the LTwoo groupset , cable actuated hydraulic brakes from zoom just need to try it out .. cheers for the inspiration and information

[@jameslowe2979]

That's a bit gutting the stem cracking after all the hassle threading the cables. Great video love your attitude

[@MichaelKWang]

Love these videos. Found your channel recently and have been just binge watching your videos. Would love to see a video every so often on the cheap groupsets and how you would rank them in case I ever decide to go down this route. 🥖

[@loc9588]

baguette. ive been running the ridenow tubes on my rim brake bike for about 300-400 miles and theyre perfect. i also have a (different model) rxl carbon bar, the one that weighs 180g. its going great too. good video!

[@leonelsetosta7509]

the brake line does not need for the brake housing to go through.. only the brake cable comes inside the frame.. that's also the reason the whole at the back is small..

[@shannonparker7404]

No Baguette emoji, but watched the whole thing while on a baseline trainer ride. Thanks Luke!

[@patthewoodboy]

for cable ends I also use heat shrink with a bit of gorilla glue on the end of the wire

[@EvanBouchard]

🥖🥖🥖🥖 just for that lil swoop cut at the end there - great vid, was waiting to see how this frame went together!

[@1sigmabikes]

@trace velo 🥖 thank you once again for risking life and limb for our entertainment and delivering the 0.5% of us from the crushing existential crisis of drifting aimlessly through life! I’ve personally heard nothing anything great about SUMC. Probably worth the upgrade to a YBN chain at some point. What will you replace the handlebar with. Btw - nice post baguette Easter egg

[@DrDiemotma]

It might be a bit much to hope for the bike not to catastrophically fail on you, but if it does, please do not hurt yourself too much, I really enjoy your content. 🥖

[@gungadinn]

I'm not sure what the deal is with GRP bikes, but IMO they're like riding a wet noodle. My first carbon bike with a Trek, back when only a few companies made graphite framed bikes. Since I worked for a aerospace company and had full access to numerous inspection techniques, I performed sherography, UT, as well as x-ray testing of the entire frame paying attention to the steer tube and bottom bracket. . What I discovered was that there wasn't a uniform thickness and that both the head tube and bottom bracket areas had voids in the composite. The only people that will see any marked improvements in their riding are the super light weight riders. A larger rider would be better off either losing weight, or stick with a custom built Reynolds 853 tube set or a quality titanium bike. At least with steel or titanium, if it's crashed, it can be repaired. Plastic bikes aren't worth the time and effort to effect a repair and have the frame ride the same as it did prior to the crash.

[@richard7059]

🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖. Nought point five ❤❤❤ still here and from way back at 2000 subs veteran. Great work old mate

[@YogeshPatel9]

I bascially had the same experience with a delihea gravel frame with the brake cable. they put some kind of barrier within the lower triangle where the cable comes out that forces you to use two sections of outers to get the brake cable run, absolutely no way to run hydraulic lines in it unless i can sort out a way to drill out a larger hole through the passage, super frustrating. I've used their aero frame before (delihea fore) which has a similar lower bottom bracket access hole....overall a much easier frame to work on, but also was rim brakes instead of disc. i definitely still like sensah over ltwoo. guess it's personal preference though 🥖

[@danielflack7902]

How you haven't been a star of childrens television, I don't know.

[@TraceVelo]

Ha, thanks Daniel!!!

[@ricogonda]

hurrah we use the same torque wrench! i am officially your fan!

[@arcboutant]

Did the same a year before you (‘20/‘21) with a 2x12 Sensah Empire Pro carbon group-set and cable /hydraulic calipers. Carbon seat/bars/levers/50mm wheels. In total cost me £1240. Frame (the spit of yours)was £375.

[@holdonL]

thanks for the episode! your attention to the details distinguishes you among other youtubers. keep up 🥖

[@mikeymomikeymo]

🥖 these videos of such massive value. Thanks for doing the dirty work for so many of us 😊

[@ridwan5868]

I can confidently say I did not skip and watched your hard work😄 great job 👏🏽 oo forgot to throw in the 🥖

[@renniealba]

🥖 thanks for the great video! In the process of looking at frames at building up a new bike myself.

[@mennoxx3241]

🥖It's exaclty these parts, where I expect your funniest bits, so I don't stop watching 😄🥖Your presentation skills are unique and amazing and I really enjoy watching your content, thanks for making it!

[@AndyWJP]

For torquing up a nut/bolt you could use an Ali Express suitcase-weighing scale hooked up to the end of a spanner and apply appropriate calculations or force vs distance. Maybe better than relying on a calibrated pin in the socket driver body?

[@deankoko6691]

Hey Luke, how did the Sroad Casette go this time around? I like to know if I will buy one.. Cheers..