Deere 1025r/1023e 50/200 hr Hydraulic Oil Change without left wheel removal

[@mikennh]

Tim, your video has proved invaluable. When I probed the oil pan with the hand held magnet, it retrieved several pieces of what appears to be a small metalbestos disk. I photographed the pieces and forwarded them to my dealer. They in turn sent the pictures off to Deere and it was determined that it was most likely "clutch wafer material". Now I don't know what that means, but I know it doesn't belong in my hydraulic oil pan. My case is now documented with Deere and if it leads to problems down the road, I'm covered. The tractor is functioning as it should, but something is obviously broken inside. I know that your intent was to "to remove as few parts as possible", I mentioned to you in an email that a minute or two, to remove the tow hitch bracket, ditch those spring clamps and replace them with worm hose clamps will prove far less frustrating during future oil changes. Sincerely, Addicted to Tractor Time with Tim, Mike

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Michael Jacobs glad to hear you got it documented. ...just continue to treat that TTWT addiction with more video time!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+SUBDUDE 2013 thanks! I've seen several photos from others on this topic. The amount of cuttings in mine seems about normal for these little tractors. I'm sure that is why they say change at 50 and then every 200 hrs. Something going on in there that is not perfect.

[@dillondixon1509]

Your always going to have a little bit of fine metallic/bronze filings. This is due to clutch and brake disk wear

[@chadwickcuevas6373]

Good morning Sir, have you learned any more about those wafer pieces? I found the same thing in a 2012 2025R along with bearing cage pieces, thank you in advance for your time. Chadwick

[@mikennh]

@@chadwickcuevas6373 No problems as of yet. I am due for my next fluids change, and I'll be watching for more of those pieces.

[@jamesfarwell8223]

Tim, having watched 25+ of your videos, you strike me like a kind man who is loving and respectful to his wife and children. It’s refreshing and enjoyable to watch. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge and for being a real gentleman !

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I try. Thankfully, either the camera isn’t on, or Christy edits out those situations where I am less respectful. As you know, it is difficult to be the type of person that we want to be.

[@mkelleyftb]

Just did the hydraulic service without removing the wheel and it was a snap. Watching your videos a couple of times Tim really helped - there were no surprises :-). I did the axle fluid replacement right after and had more trouble with those little vent plugs than I did with anything on the hydraulic service - including cleaning the screen. Thank you Tim for the quality video and instructions, especially calling out part numbers and tools needed as the manual is quite inadequate for that stuff. Tip for the axle fluid replacement: I took a pair of scissors and cut the bottom half of the empty hydraulic gallon containers from the hydraulic service to catch the axle fluid from the plugs by the wheels. There was plenty of room - worked like a champ!

[@terrybrady7772]

Tim, thank you so much for your very informative videos. After eight hours of work, I changed all the 200 hr maintenance items plus the front axle fluid. The local JD dealer just for the 200 hr kit would have charged $550.00. A good trick for cleaning the bar magnet and screen is to use a larger magnet, which will strip the metal fillings from the smaller magnet quite easily. Also if you lubricate the small hose with some of the hydraulic fluid it will make reassembly much easier. Cannot thank you enough.

[@dougglasscock6658]

Just pulled screen filter out of my 2018 1025r tractor and there was no screen in it . I guess the missed it at the factory ! The screen was magnetized however . Did they not put magnets in the screens that year ?

[@rodsod9838]

Great video Tim! I don’t think I could have learnt more if I attended a shop class specifically to this task on this tractor. Thanks for going into such detail. I have a 1025R and I have learnt so much about it just by watching you and your wife’s videos. Keep them coming!

[@CC-te5zf]

I went ahead and did this at 50 hours. Glad I did. I had a decent amount (nothing too excessive) of metal particles both in the screen and magnet. It was super easy after watching this video and there's plenty of clearance, so no need to jack it up, put it on jack stands and remove left rear wheel. I got a little oil on the inside of the tire, so I suggest perhaps just laying a rag on the inside of the wheel and tire. Thanks much for making these videos available - they are a tremendous help!

[@edwarddeak4522]

Just changed the hydraulic fluid T 52.3 hours on 2018 John Deere 1023e. Thanks to Tractor Time with Tim, as well as other viewers comments about the hose, this change went without a hitch! Well, my 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter sheared off when using the 13mm socket, and the drain plug wasn't tight on my new 3.75 gallon drain pan, leading to a bit of a mess on the barn floor, but those have nothing to do with your EXCELLENT and helpful video! Thanks to you, this tractor newbie got this done in a short time. Thanks Tim!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Excellent! Glad we could help. Successfully accomplishing a project like this makes one feel good!

[@winkleoop]

Before I married my wife she was my employer... When she hired me she said "I hope you work very hard for us." I replied "I'm not going to work too hard, but I will try to work smart." I believe Tim has a whole lot of smarts combined with at least a youth of real world experience. Always appreciate and mostly enjoy watching these videos....

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@supertrooper7403]

winkleoop well....that’s one way to move up in the company...........

[@buildexplore3278]

Thanks for the video! I'm sitting at 43 hrs and about to do the first service. You have a lot more patience than I do, doing these projects with your wife. Well done!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Chris Mills I'm very thankful for her. We have a great time together!

[@MrBemma1]

Tim just a FYI - I did mine today and all I had to do was move the bottom hose clamp up, and then remove the 6mm allen bolt. I got away with not taking the hose off at all. I wasn't sure if it would work but it did. Saved me a little time

[@trentminch1958]

Tim, I did the transmission/hydraulic fluid change like you described in your video, but I had one frustrating problem. The tractor would not move and the hydraulics would not work after replacing filter, fluid, and cleaning transmission suction screen. The Tractor started fine and sounded great, but it was frozen in place. Fortunately I went on John deer forum and came across several others who experienced the same thing. The remedy is to engage the pto switch after you start the tractor. This was the first time I did the 200 hour service myself so I was afraid I did something wrong. Fortunately I came across that remedy. Thank you for your videos as they were very helpful, but if possible you may want to add the PTO step at the end of the video for troubleshooting purposes. It would have saved me from using a bunch of foul language. 😤 Also I found that using metal screw adjustable clamps on the hose Instead of John deer clamps that come with tractor to be much easier to work with. Thanks,Trent

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I can’t modify the video. Thanks for mentioning the solution!

[@Ashokan1]

I just did this service after watching your video. It went very smooth! I replaced the clamps with conventional hose clamps to avoid the squeeze clamp difficulty in the future. Thanks for the tips you really saved me time and unnecessary efforts!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Ashokan1 sounds good. I think I will replace the clamps next time.

[@patio-furniture]

Hi Tim I used your video to do my 50 hour trans oil change, did not take the wheel off. worked great. Taking the hose off was a RPA, but did get it off. What i found out was to move the top clamp up and and off the hose to the top pipe. Then get a ratchet on the bottom clamp and over as far as you can, then pry the bottom part of the hose up letting it ride up the top pipe until you can get the clamp drop free onto the screen housing. After jerking around for an hour, I found the best way to reinstall the hose was to first install the lower house clamp on the about hose while it off the tractor, just moving it up about 1" from the house end. Then slide the up the top pipe as far as to will go making sure you first put the top clamp on the pipe and just letting it hang there blocked by the hose. Next install the screen assembly and tighten it to spec. Make sure that the hose will clear the screen fitting. Now you should be able to slide the hose down to the screen fitting while keeping the lower clamp open with your vice grips. You have to push and pry down on the lower hose clamp while trying to move the lower clamp back and forth. Once you get the lower clamp on the screen fitting the top hose clamp is pretty easy to open and slide down from the upper pipe and over the hose. Some comments: I had very little metal shavings on the screen and almost none on the magnet. I did not pick up any shavings when i put a magnet probe in the screen hole. You should probably look into why you have all the oil related caking on the underside of you tractor. Aside a small amount of dirt on the underside of my tractor, I had NO oil caking issues. Thanks for all your great video on the 1025R.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Joe Smith sounds good, Joe!

[@seanpatrick1867]

Hey Tim, thanks for all the videos, I’ve watched a ton and just bought my first 1025r. I decided to take on the 400 hour service myself (it’s used) and am watching to learn. Had to comment because I bet the magnet is inside to allow you to sufficiently get rid of the shavings. If it was all a magnet, you wouldn’t be able to clean as easily. But like putting a magnet in a plastic bag then pulling it out to release the shavings on the outside of the bag, the bag (screen) acts as a buffer.

[@kirkbrinkley6990]

Thanks for the video. I have a 1023e with no backhoe attachment. I took the wheel off for my 50 hour service. I now know there is a easier way for me to complete the 200 hour service. Also, I liked the idea of using the magnet to get the extra gunk out once the screen is removed. Great Job!

[@duramaxmak]

Tim the small shaving you are finding are from when the bevel gears and for that matter all the gears in the hydro transmission. During the hobbing process there will be some burrs created and sometimes these are not always removed so what you are getting is the fall off of these burrs. and the magnet along with the filter are gathering these up. That's why it is critical to change on the 50 hrs mark. How this help with where this Metal is coming from.

[@wingersww]

Thanks for this video Tim, I watched it a couple times before I performed a 50 hour service on my 2017 1025r. It was a great resource that helped me find those hard to get fittings, especially the one right at the back of the engine! I'm glad I went ahead and took off my left-rear wheel though, because one of the 5 lug bolts had been cross-threaded and was very tough getting off, even with my impact wrench. Thankfully the bolt's threads weren't damaged too much, but I had to order a metric tap from amazon before putting it back on so I could clean up the threads on the hub itself.

[@timothycoleman8916]

I bought the 1023E with 54" Auto-deck. They are busy at the J.D. Shop and haven't delivered yet. Hopefully this is the last Friday I am without. Early next week I am told! Then it will be Tractor Time With Tim X2 because I am Tim also. lol Your videos on the maintenance is spot on brother, I am already about to purchase the oils/filters I will need down the road. Keeping up with oil/filter changes is most crucial with anything used. Been Deer-ing since the 1960s with Dad.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Get those oils/filters through greenpartstore.com! Use code TTWT For free shipping!

[@myronbaumann4559]

When it came to the magnetic filter and screen, it was not as easy as it was for Tim. I also left the tire on and I think the only advantage to taking it off would be aligning the screen on the way back in. I had to remove it a second time and be careful to be straight as the elbow fitting was difficult to get back in. I also found using some wire to hold the hose clamps higher up made it easier to work on the hose removal. Just a little oil on the upper tube also made working the hose up much easier. Thanks for the great video Tim, I knew what I was going to encounter when I did my first service!

[@mizmoman]

Thanks so much for sharing this. I did the entire 200 hour service on my 2019 1025r this past weekend in about 3 hours (including the hydraulic fluid/filter), and it would have taken a lot more time (not to mention been a lot more messy) had I not watched your video that shows the potential trouble spots along the way.

[@harrydriezen8932]

as i watched your video on service without removing tire you said that John Deere recommended the low viscosity hydraulic oil and you thought it was because of colder conditions you where right if you use your equipment in areas like where I am an further north it make the fluid move much more freely eliminating slow movement of hydraulics and less strain on pump. I truly enjoy your videos and keep them coming

[@halbarringer6718]

changed my trans/hyd. oil at 50 hours on my 1023e. Your video was VERY HELPFUL and used a hand magnet to remove some shavings in the trans housing. Thanks Tim for the many helpful videos... PS. Mal. 3:16-18

[@tgilldesign]

Excellent 'how-to' video as usual, Tim!! I am at about 31 hrs on my 1025......so I am starting to think about the 50 hr maintenance. I was thinking of letting JD dealer do it, but after watching this video I think I can 'ger 'r done. Your videos always leave me with a smile - thanks buddy!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thank you for the comment. Yes, you can do it! Just take your time, think it through, watch the video a few times and you'll be fine.

[@toodles5683]

Thanks Tim, your video was a great help. Although I'm very mechanically inclined, I'm new to owning a John Deere. My husband used to do all the service on our previous tractors but since he has lost his vision it has become my job. I did take the left wheel off when I did this, it was much easier to get to the screen. Thanks again, I enjoy watching your videos.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Laurie Briggs I took mine off the first time too. After adding fluid to the tires and the wheel weights, the pain outweighed the gain. Thanks for watching. Sorry to hear about your husbands loss of vision. If you ever have questions about your Deere, please leave a comment on a video here, or on our website, or at the email listed in 'business inquiries' on our channel about page. Also, greentractortalk.com is a great help. Great folks who will patiently help you through any issues.

[@brucealvarez9263]

GREAT video. Getting all those clear shots so someone with this tractor can see EXACTLY what they need to do likely took substantially longer than the actual service. The video isn't specifically applicable to me since I have a larger and different brand tractor but there is always something to learn that is common. That short piece of connecting hose was the biggest problem you faced. To make your next screen cleaning a wee bit "less effort" I suggest a ratcheting box wrench. That way you can just slip it onto the Allen socket and not need to mess with multiple passes with the open end. Someone else may have already suggested this but I didn't read all 234 comments ;)

[@ThinhLe-sl3kt]

I just bought a 2018 1025r just from seeing your channel. Love everything you do. Great videos and great family.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Congratulations!!

[@TxTundra]

Tim, 1st thing is thank you for all these great videos! I don't own one yet but I will be buying a 1025R TLB in the next 18 to 20 months to work on a 27 acre parcel I'm about to close on to build our retirement home on. I plan on doing nearly all the site work with this tractor as well as use it for years to come as the small/hobby ranch farm tractor. I really appreciate all the effort you've put in. You've taken away a lot of the concerns I had over owning my first tractor as well as made me very comfortable with how to operate and maintain it. Count me a subscriber for life. Maybe down the road, I can share a nice how-to video with you.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Wow. What a genuine and kind comment. This one makes my day. I hope you can get your tractor soon, and I'm certain you'll enjoy it as much as we've enjoyed ours! Stay tuned. We have lots more coming in the future.

[@TxTundra]

You've more than earned any compliment I can offer Tim. I'm not keen on the nay-sayers below who don't appreciate your efforts and time to give us free instructional videos. But, everyone has an opinion! :D Question: Do you know the GVWR of the TLB with the loader, backhoe and 60" mower deck all installed? I'll need to buy a trailer to haul it once in a while until I get the garage/workshop built. I know the tractor alone is 1,444 lbs but I cannot find weights for the attachments. Thank you Sir!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+toyohtadude roughly 600lb each for loader and backhoe. Then any ballast you might have. Then likely another anothe 100-200lb of 'stuff' you haven't considered.

[@simoHoss]

Hello Tim, Great video. Just wanted to give you an easy pointer. If you need to raise the rear tires off the ground and be safe, why don't you just put a pair of drive up ramps that you use when you change the oil in your car and drive up the ramps in reverse. Now you are up in the air 9" and safe. Then raise the front end up using the bucket then put some jacks for safety. Hope this helps.

[@raymondheinrichjr.2902]

Thanks Tim and Christy! The video was a big help. My tube had no magnet and the was a small roll pin the magnet found. I’ll be calling the dealer on this. Thanks again

[@ProjectAdventures]

Next time you do this job, try taking those hose clamps off and going up to your local auto parts store or hardware store and getting two regular metal band-type hose clamps to replace them. It will make you life a whole lot easier. Just use a screwdriver or nut driver to loosen, then it stays loose and slides out of the way. Also, they clamp much better then those cheap spring-type hose clamps, which will need to be replaced eventually anyways because they stretch out over many uses. Great video! It's hard to film and not get you hands in the way. You do it well!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Cameron Hahn i think I will have to replace those clamps next time. Thanks for the positive comment!

[@TreySmith-fu6xf]

Those hose clamps are evil... I finally had to take the tire off to gain a grip on the hose clamps. Good gawd that's a horrible design...thanks Tim...this video was well worth watching at least 3 times...providing the size of the sockets was invaluable...I almost stripped the Allen nut...you mentioned it was 6mm... a quick trip to Horbor Frieght and kept me from having to but a new nut. Y'all are awesome...next...on to the grease!

[@daleme2972]

I replaced the bottom hose clamp with a screw type, way easier since you can back it all the way off.

[@johnharbourt4236]

Great video. Only thing I would point out is the size of the oil pan needed to catch all the transmission fluid doesn’t fit under the tractor unless you raise it. Also those hose clamps are the devil. Everything from oil to transmission was done in less than 40 mins. Getting the hose back on and clamps set was over an hour. A trick I found was removed the hose and clamps, place the clamps back onto the metal pipe (in the right order) slide them up high, then install. I was thinking the same thing as others have commented, replacing those clamps with metal hose clamps with the screw tightened. Over all, great video. So far my only issue was ...transmission filter was tight enough oops...funnel wasn’t big enough so I made a little mess. I’m letting it sit over night then I’ll check all fluid levels I’m the am. Over all $170.00 for everything to replace off your website vs like $800.00 for the dealer to do it

[@fun2drive107]

Since I am getting a JD 1025R with 25 hours this is very helpful. Wow not the best design for servicing by JD but this vid will make me doing the change so much easier and no guess work. Thanks

[@petejones9788]

Tim we have a county BBQ cook off here every year. With it is a tractor pull all different classes. Been running this idea by the board member to let me enter my 1025r this year. Wish me luck.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Pete Jones hmm. I'm not betting too highly on the 1025r...but don't let Johnny hear that!

[@petejones9788]

Ye of little faith.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Pete Jones Go, Go Johnny Go. Go Johnny Go go go....

[@dwar6358]

Just did my 50 hr service. Easy to do...your video made it easier. Interestingly I found a staple on the screen. Seemed to be a normal amount of metal but a staple seemed a bit strange. Thanks for the videos. Keep them coming.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

That is interesting. I don't think I found anything unusual in mine.

[@qfdforme]

Tim, Thanks for your thorough how to video. It is a pleasure watching them. The new service interval is 200 hours on the 2018 1025R for both hydraulic and engine oil. Bill

[@qfdforme]

No more 50 hour engine and hydraulic drain and refill for the 2018 models.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Just looked in my book. I agree. 50 hr service has been removed. I may change my hydraulic fluid anyway...to show how to do it, and see if there are shavings on my screen.

[@qfdforme]

Tractor Time with Tim There is always trash in filters. They means they are doing their job. The fluid or oil is not or has not gone bad. Look how clean or clear it is a 50 and 200 hr. Intervals. Why waste the fluid or oil. JD appears to recommend break in oil for 200 hours. Bill

[@TractorTimewithTim]

You are taking engine. I am talking hydraulic. I found that the hydraulic restriction caused by shavings on the screen cause a significant ‘whine’ in the transmission (on my 2014 1025r). I also noticed a significant improvement in hydraulic performance after the screen was cleaned.

[@qfdforme]

@Tractor Time with Tim It is all in the duty cycle whether hydraulic or engine fluids need changing. An observed improvement in performance as a result of cleaning the hydraulic fluid screen makes all kinds of sense. Wasting the barely used @ 50 hr. hydraulic fluid seems seems unnecessary. Consider running the drained out hydraulic fluid through a paint filter and reusing it by straining it in your garden variety size 60-70 paint strainers. That is about 250 microns. Of course, if you are getting free hydraulic fluid this may be a waste of your time.

[@kendo339]

Thanks for the info! I just bought one 2017 1025R ! It will be here Tuesday can't wait !

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+James Gaines this will be the longest 2-3 days of your life. Congratulations!

[@kendo339]

Yes i know !!!! But what i have seen from all the other tractors this one is the easy to hook up like the mower deck how can you beat that ? But yes days are going slow what do think of the Curtis cab ?

[@jeffbuelt6953]

Can a guy change the hydraulic fluid with the Deck on?

[@ernestt4969]

Great video Tim, it helped me tremendously when I did this service on my 2019 1025R. I too didn't have to take off the rear tire as outlined in the owners manual. Appreciate your video channel!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks for watching, Mr. Bass :-)

[@andysaltus7016]

Hi Tim. Excellent video. Just changed fluid for the 50 hour service, sure glad I watched this video. I did take off rear tire, had heck of a time with those clamps and hose. I now have a slight hydraulic fluid leak from drain plug. It seemed plenty tight.

[@Freecan67]

Hay Tim. I am about to do my 200 hr service. You make it look easy. God Bless.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

It is! Have confidence!

[@Freecan67]

We got it done today. After spending $100.00 on tools. God is Good.

[@semco72057]

I am glad that changing the oil, and hydraulic fluid isn't that hard on my John Deere 790 tractor, and I have to do that with my new 3032E tractor also since it is new and have not been used that much yet. The last time I had to do maintenance on my one tractor it didn't take long to complete.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Sidney Mathious yes.

[@aramstudio2891]

Very helpful video! I just bought used 2010 JD 2305, pretty sure that the process of motor oil with filter and hydraulic fluid with filter change will be similar to 1025r. I can't even imagine how much metal shavings I have collected on my hydraulic screen. Definitely, very useful video.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yep. Should be similar. Congratulations on the 'new' machine!

[@btan4209]

Nice job, as always Tim. I am at 185 hours and will soon follow your video tips. Thank you

[@stevetrubilla755]

Tim, A very well done video. Christy's questions and interaction with you bring things into a better level of understanding. Thank you for doing these videos.

[@eshollen]

I see that heavy hitch you have, with the trash can arm sleeve. Thats a fantastic tool for anyone with a long driveway! I love mine, i have a 1025r with a cozy cab

[@nunyabizness6734]

Wish I had watched all of this before doing my 50 hr oil change last night. That hose from the pump to the magnetic filter was a nightmare. The oil filter was a pain too, until I completely removed the mid pto quick connect bracket and shaft, then it was easy.

[@caseymutzenberger5547]

I did this all last night. Went great! Love the video. I rarely use the repair manual anymore just use your videos instead. Couple comments: I found the removal of the tire to be pretty easy (and I'm super lazy too) and I would remove it in the future as well. It's just nicer to sit in the wheel well and work on the filter removal rather than laying under the back hitch and I don't have the heavy hitch so it wasn't a big deal to get on those hose clamps. And my grease gun never leaked out the back like yours until I watched this video?? Now it makes a mess everywhere.... just sayin'.... :) Thanks for the great video!!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Tire easy to remove...unless you have wheel weight AND fluid in it.

[@caseymutzenberger5547]

oh yeah that's right you mention that in the video. You have all the hitches and gadgets!

[@scottmote2176]

I bought my tractor 2 years ago with 180 hours on it. I hit 200 hours this past week so I changed the hydraulic oil and filter today. My screen and magnet at the pickup elbow were not attached to the elbow. Hopefully the filter caught any metal that got sucked thru.

[@rayeddy528]

Howdy Tim! Thank you for sharing this procedure with us! I think the amount of wear at 190 hrs. is a little much! I would pull an oil sample at 250 hrs. and send it off. I get my sample bottles at my Caterpillar dealer. Any dealer can help. I would advise sending the sample off somewhere other than your dealer. The sample will tell you exactly what is wearing! Again thank you and God bless you and your family!!!!! Make sure you take a hot sample and pull it from you fill hole!!!!

[@adamchristensen1338]

When doing my 50 hour change, the hydro filter Allen bolt was painted over. Made it a little more difficult to remove, I was worried that I would break the head off, but as soon as the paint broke loose the whole thing went smooth.

[@underhilld88]

Thanks so much Tim. I just completed my first 50 hour service and your insights and knowledge made it so much easier than I was expecting. Keep up the good work.

[@fester239]

There is still a cloud of profanity hovering above my garage from the green rage of wrestling that hose clamp off during my 50hr change. They painted over it! I'll try your "lazy method" at 200. Thanks for another great video tutorial, Tim!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Highlander John well, i 'willed myself' to remain patient this time. I guess getting older, I realize it doesn't make the project any easier if I lose my temper!

[@fester239]

Very true. I sure learned a lot about the tractor. Your magnetic screen at 200hr looks like it had more shavings than mine did at 50hr, like you observed also.

[@davidleatherbarrow2640]

Hi Tim. Watching You changing filters on your farm machinery I see You use grease to lubricate the rubber seal on the new filters, in Australia we would normally use engine / hydraulic oil to do the same job. Not better I guess just a different approach. Same with fuel filters we would rub fuel on the rubber gaskets. Snap On also makes a filter removal tool which will remove all / most filters. But I guess by now You have something similar. Thanks for thew videos. David. Down Under.

[@wiskybilt9399]

I don't see how to add pics/vids. But I changed mine with the loader and backhoe on the tractor. Worked very easy. Seems easier too. Was able to get better access from under the tractor. And was high enough to get a metal 5 gallon bucket under there. Plastic bucket was to tall

[@mi2tn]

I don't know Tim, my manual says to use J20D which is Low Viscosity Hy-Gard. It's all I've ever used. I also use Dawn dish soap and water to clean the screen filter and magnet. Then I spray both with brake cleaner and then use the air compressor to spray off anything else that might be on it. I was surprised to see what all you had on that filter. As you know I have over 700 hours so I've done this 4 times and altogether haven't had that much stuff on it. I'm older then you so I look for ways to make things easier to do. I think doing it the lazy way is harder then doing it the easier way. Taking the QH and left rear tire off is easier for me. Last time I even took the left PTO arm off to get it out of my way. I don't like twisting myself around things when I can remove them and get right at it. Maybe I'm showing my age and have one foot in the grave. :) Glad you got it done. Now on to the grease zerks. :)

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I think you are right on the quick hitch (and maybe 3 pt arms). However, with the wheel weight and loaded tires, I think taking the wheel off isn't worth it. I'm always worried about using compressed air on a filter like that. Don't want to create larger holes in the screen. I'm not sure why I had so many shavings in there. Perhaps because I didn't get them all the first time? I did not fish in there with a magnet the first time. Yep, several more "essential oils" videos coming up, including the greasing.

[@mi2tn]

As for compressed air, turn the pressure down. 35 lbs. is good for me. For the rear wheel I use a hyd. jack and let it do all the work. All I do is roll the wheel out of the way and then back into place using the jack to get tractor the right height. The tire never leaves the ground till the lugs are back on.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+mi2tn I just can't see how the project is any easier by removing the wheel. The biggest challenge is that crazy hose which is more easily accessed from the rear anyway. I DO agree that removing the quick hitch and 3 pt arms is worthwhile. I'm a little concerned about how many shavings were present in my system. Seemed like a lot.

[@PhatboyHD88]

mi2tn if you look at the temp ranges for low viscosity hyguard it is "only" good up to 86 degrees F,, so unless you live in Alaska in the summer months for most of us it is no good for atleast a third of the warm days most of us have.. however regular hyguard is good up to 120 F , and down to -14 degrees F,,, which covers id say 75% of us in the US,,, john deere put those specs on the bottle for a reason , and i have no idea why dealers including mine push the low viscosity on everyone,, when i showed the dealer what it says on the back of the bottle he said hmm i never noticed that before... that being said maybe the dealers are just ill informed ,, but for me im doing what the engineers at JD who spec the oil make the tractor etc... im listening to them... i have always ran it in my tractor and not a once did i have any issue what so ever,, thats just my 2 cents lol ... ramblings of a 52 year old man lol

[@mi2tn]

Well I bought a 2210 in '03, traded that for a '12 1026r in '13 and I've never used anything else then low viscosity J20D. Had 1400 hours on my 2210. That's just me and I've never had a problem either. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I'm in Tn. and 64 years old if that makes a difference.

[@mikeburke8656]

Just did a 200 hr and struggled with the spring clamps on the return hose to the metal filter. Hint, just replace them with screw clamps.

[@chiefc172]

Hi Tim. Excellent videos! Can you please help…my 1025r will not go into reverse when reverse pedal engaged. Checked all wiring, fuses and linkage…tractor will move forward with no issues.

[@nm82007]

Tim you are the best! Step by step. Comprehensive. Thanks so much!

[@ianmelville9735]

Very well explained just think how quick you would have been if you had a hoist. The most difficult part was the spring hose clips .better to refit with screw clamp ?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I used some different pliers the last time I did it. Much easier. Check out the knipex pliers.

[@Drew6709]

Tim, in the future, you may want to change out those hose clamps to the radiator style worm screw that open bigger to allow more room to work.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Drew6709 those clamps are a royal pain! Better clamps is a minimum. There should be a better connection. Maybe a flare fitting, or something.

[@Drew6709]

Tractor Time with Tim: I wonder if there would be a better idea for that hose connection. I'm thinking of a union connection of some sort.

[@ronscheckler]

Awesome video! Just a little disappointed I can't find the links to purchase the supplies - nor does the discount code work. Then again this vid was made 5 years ago. Nonetheless an awesome video!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I updated the link in the description…sorry. Visit tractortimewithtim.com/2016/08/06/1023e-1025r-service-part-numbers/ for pages listing filter kits for 1-4 series tractors as well as 50 and 200 hour service parts for 1-series and 2025r tractors.

[@dlacr]

One good reason for going with Low viscosity oil is "velocity" Lower viscosity travels through the system and all the journals of the transmission with less resistance, which normally would result in a cooler transmission. I understand the physics behind using a higher viscosity in higher air temperatures... but I would also venture to say, that a max operating temp of 86 degrees F seems a little low... considering that the temperature of the engine and transmission during use would normally be higher than that during normal operation, and if the LV oil keeps the transmission cooler because of higher velocity flow, then perhaps it is a better choice. I would love to hear from the John Deere engineers to see if they have tested transmission operating temps with the Low Viscosity oils.

[@treenatal2]

I used a vise grips pilers on the hose clamps when I put them back in place, it worked great. I had to open the vise grips wide to get hold of the clamp ends, then clamp the pliers and then screw the handle screw tighter after the pliers were clamped. Then I could easily move the hose clamps into place and release the vise grips.

[@JoseRamirez-nm9nh]

A Tim first of all, great videos. Hey , but I wanna find out what's wrong with mine ten twenty six r because my implements hesitate go up and dow When tractor running

[@PhatboyHD88]

I noticed that you are using low-viscosity HyGuard,, my JD dealer also recommended that for me,, however if you look at the back sticker in upper left hand corner, the engineers who make the oil say its only good " UP" to 86 degrees F,,, so i showed him the regular hyguard and it is rated to 120 degrees F , and down to -14 F ,, which means that for more than 1/3 of this last summer low vis users could not have used their machine,,, he said hmm i never saw that,, now this is not my opinion this is the specs from the JD Engineers themselves.. why the dealers keep pushing low vis hyguard when for most ppl it is the incorrect oil...now i use the regular hyguard per the specs on the bottle,, and we just had some snow and temps of 6 degrees F,, and my tractor had no issues what so ever and have been for 2 years,,, so that is something to take into consideration ,, and point out to your dealer that the engineers that make the oil and the machine set the specs for the oil and for 75% of us low vis is the wrong oil to put into your machine... just some food for thought..

[@surfearth1]

PhatboyHD88 so you have to pay them to fix it...

[@OldGuyGolf]

Car dealerships do the same thing. They state you need your oil changed every 5000 miles and it clearly states in the manual on my Grand Cherokee it needs it every 10,000. How they make more money, doing double the oil change. I am not sure the reason for hydraulic fluid but I am sure it is a way to make them more money.

[@toddsmith3002]

Tim I just Placed an Order for the 200 hour service kit using you link Thanks for the convenience but just an FYI i did place 2 Under floorboard and 2 Fuel Filters for the right side of the motor in the cart instead of just one each ???

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Todd Smith sounds good.

[@stevedouglas389]

Nice how-to video, Tim. I got a kick out of you and Katriel singing at the end!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Steve Douglas thanks for making us such a cool jingle!

[@markon-whidbey1737]

Just doing my first 50 hour service on a 2016 1025r (I bought it used in late 2019 with 16 hours). I was wondering on the rear fluid change if you put the drain plug back in and then ran some hydo fluid thru if it would help push out the small filings that were under the magnetic screen, rather than fish them out with the small extension magnet?

[@rodbagley1686]

Just watched your video again Pulled out the dip stick right on the back of it stamped ( USE LO- VIS HY-GARD)

[@npeltack]

curious as to how you got the lower clamp back onto the suction screen tube? I tried everything i could and finally gave up and replaced it with a standard hose clamp-any advice is appreciated. Thanks for all of the great videos.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+npeltack replacing with a standard hose clamp Is likely the best advice. It takes me a long time to get it back on too.

[@paulcorsetto6047]

Any issue with spraying brake cleaner on the screens to clean them?

[@camjorgenson2998]

Thank you so much for taking the time to do these videos! They have really helped me a lot!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Cam Jorgenson thanks for commenting.

[@timothycoleman8916]

Getting ready to buy one, or the 1023e. Waiting to sign. Thanks for the info, much appreciated to learn all I can.

[@JohnSmith-kz1ll]

Love how your so thorough with everything. Go to channel for my john deere needs.

[@linnjensen7469]

The best most descriptive video I have seen on this subject

[@tonyforrest1095]

Great video, helped me a lot. I bought my 1025R used and my drain plug bolt was almost stripped. I had buy an extraction socket set and replace the bolt. I inadvertently bent the tube with the magnet. When I first reinstalled it I didn't have it seated with the outside tube and when I tightened the bolt it bent the tube since it was caught inside. Do you think it's still usable? I can get it in and out of the hole. I'm thinking of there isn't any moving parts bear the tube it should be fine. Those hose clamps are a pain for sure.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Dunno, but if guessing, I think it would be fine.

[@tonyforrest1095]

@@TractorTimewithTim Good grief! I just checked on a replacement screen and it is $78 not counting the magnet. Think I'll try to use my bent one first.

[@MsKala88]

Update...got it 1/2 " drive 13mm ratchet and socket...just bought. Thank you for your video. You are saving me. What size ratchet did you use to get the magnetic bar out? That was a 1/4 inch you put into the magnetic filter to get it out? Also, it was 13mm for the bolt for the oil pan, correct?

[@christiancarle5231]

Hello Tim.. do you have a video on how to remove the left wing on a 1026R ? I really need to acces my SCV below that wing.. TK Christian

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I would call that the right fender. And yes. I upgraded the fender on our 1025r. I also installed power beyond kit which required fender removal I think. NEW CONSOLE! John Deere 1025R Upgrades to 2022 Armrest with Switch Knockout Plugs! kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3TclJ2ZqNijnZY

[@04tacomaguy1]

thanks tim me and my dad use your videos when we service my tractor

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+04tacomaguy1 sounds good. You are getting good experience!

[@paulcwiklinski3903]

Tim, need help. Did everything per your video. Now backhoe moves slowly. This was change 3 at 312 hours. I did find a stick lodged on the right side undercarriage.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Disconnect and reconnect backhoe hydraulic lines. See if that helps.

[@dancocosa6778]

Hi Tim and Family. I am getting ready to do the hydraulic oil change as I just did the engine oil last week. My question is how tight is that filter the first time. I hope not as tight as the engine oil filter. Let me know please. Thanks again.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I don’t remember. I think not as tight as engine oil filter, but still too tight :-)

[@ajsturtz]

Tim, have you ever thought about doing the change with your loader at max height, then when the oil have all drained out, lower the loader to get the fluid out of the base ends of the cylinders? Otherwise the lift cylinders (rod ends) are still full of fluid that doesn't get changed. Just an idea on how to get more used fluid out of the tractor during service.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

The fluid really isn’t ‘worn out’. Rather, there are shavings in it which need to be removed. These shavings should always be by that magnet, as all fluid flows through that point. So, I’m. It really concerned about changing the most fluid possible. Does this make sense?

[@ajsturtz]

@@TractorTimewithTim I'm thinking more about situations when you are trying to change fluid brands, when additive compatibility can be a concern, or if you switch between high and low vis fluids seasonally.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Similar story for me. I just don’t worry about it. Don’t tell anyone, but In my opinion, too much fuss is made over the types of oil. Mixing it a bit isn’t gonna be a big deal. My opinion only.

[@PhatboyHD88]

Also seeing your tube filter using the thicker hyguard oil will better cushion moving parts and stop alot of that wear,,, as i get virtually no shavings on mine,,, as the low viscosity is only 10W oil ..

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+PhatboyHD88 I used regular by-hard before, so the shavings you saw were from regular hygard.

[@philipperebel9453]

Need a video on Pre heat coil location and replacement....I get a an error display " Pre heat coil fault...not much on this....I hear a purring sound, dash is lit up, but engine will not turn over...can you help?

[@colinryan9111]

Great Video! Do you have a video on how to change the Transmission oil?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yes. Part of the ‘Johnny’s Essential Oils’ series. Playlist by that name...

[@dmonty1980]

Is this more difficult after adding the Heavy Hitch?

[@koplataroo2786]

Hey thanks for the great video! I just did my first transmission oil change and found no magnets in the screen filter. Do you know if John Deere has discontinued magnets inside the screen? Given the screen would stop most of the metal particles that might make sense. PS I have the 2016 model 1025R.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Paul Duyn there should be magnets! Please contact your dealer. The magnets are very important to catch and hold those cuttings.

[@rodbagley1686]

Just wondering if I do the 50 hour service my self will my warranty still be OK. Or does HD need to do it to keep my warranty in effect?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yes, you can service yourself. Remember that the 50 hr service has been removed from newer 1-series machines.

[@mofo9886]

Excellent video, love Tractor Time with Tim

[@bryansteen2219]

I have never done this as so have no knowledge of what to do ,but one question, can you clean the magnet and screen with gasoline or thinner? Thanks for sharing your knowledge of what to do.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

You could do so. it would not hurt. However, I got it clean just wiping it down. I don't think there is much need for more detailed cleaning. Others may correct me if I'm wrong.

[@bryansteen2219]

Your videos are great because they show all the screws you need to touch Aldi measurements needed on the Allen wrenches and such very easy for someone that doesn't have any experience - understand and see what to do thank you

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching. I was afraid this one was too long and boring. Hard to get that much information packed into any shorter time.

[@petejones9788]

Tractor Time with Tim Tim you don't do it the lazy way. I do it the lazy way I have JD dealer come and do it for me. I just sit in lawn chair and watch. Not that I'm lazy.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+Pete Jones iI'm lazy, but might cheapness outweighs my laziness

[@CashJohnston]

I've been waiting for a video like this where the video wasn't too dark. Thanks! Now can I ask about your heater/cooler you installed? How is it doing now that you've tested it out for a few months? Is if heating and cooling good enough?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I'm glad to hear that it was light enough. Wow, it was VERY difficult to record. I really like the hvac unit I installed. Feels quite luxurious for the price. It is quiet, and effective. The only thing which could be better is if I could have two sets of vents. Near ceiling for A/C, near floor for heat. ...but that isn't practical at all. So, I might try to get a ceiling fan of some sort. It is 15 degrees hotter at the ceiling than the floor.

[@CashJohnston]

Tractor Time with Tim Oh nice. I may just pick up one like that. TY.

[@mikehurley3536]

Apologies if these ? Have been addresed but didnt feel like scrolling through 300 comments. Lol. Ok to change with FL and BH attached? Fluids are a lil low now, top off before changing fluid? If i do leave attachments on, will i have to deal with more than 4Gal of fluid draining and have to replace? Thanks!

[@Malledeus86]

Tim I love your videos. I'm a new tractor owner and don't know much so I watch your show to learn. I have the loader backhoe combo, but just now picked up the post hole digger. I've gotten my 3pt hitch on, and probably going to work on installing the rest tomorrow. My question though is could you do a video about basic operation on the pto, and the rpm for them? I've not had to use them yet so im unfamiliar with how to operate. Honestly I don't even know where the control is to lift the hitch up and down at the moment lol haven't ever needed to use it until now. Maybe you have some footage for newbies like myself, it would really help. Going to read my manual again tonight just so I don't break anything.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Hard for me to do the absolute basics and keep it interesting for all. We've discussed making something like this a 'pay for' set of beginner videos. Would that be interesting to you?

[@darthvader4hire]

Tim, you mentioned fluid in the tires...what did you fill them with? for mine im leaning to pink antifreeze. RimGuard is not available near me and im not interested in Calcium.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

+darthvader4hire I used rimguard. Local kubota dealer has it.

[@FF4X4]

darthvader4hire I filled mine with washer fluid. It’s a much cheaper option

[@deanmccullor9750]

Is there a reason you didn't remove the oil catch container when reassembling so that if you dropped something it didn't end up in the trans. fluid?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I can’t remember. Was oil still draining? If not, then likely just an oversight.

[@joewnuk1912]

Thank you for the 1025r videos, very helpful

[@RKHarm24]

If you shred your mail and documents, use the shreds to absorb any spills or drips. Clean Sweep or Kitty Litter works too

[@wsmcmc3864]

Thanks for the heads up about the multiple discounts on filters.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yes, this discount is very nice. it doesn't happen often.

[@robertchannell9611]

is the transmission hydraulic oil also the hydraulic oil for the front end loader and backhoe? Bob Channell

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yes