Trad climbing cam chat part 2: How to place cams / friends

[@johnellis8431]

Always worth thinking about the life of the cams when buying them too. In 10 years time my DMM Dragons will go back to DMM who will service the cam and replace the slings for a reasonable cost. By comparison Wild Country won't offer this service and now say that you need to bin them after 10 years. Not sure where BD, Totem or others stand on this, but worth checking out!

[@sethdasilva5368]

From Australia. Yes i do.

[@JBMountainSkills]

😂

[@Ethan-ht1wc]

Hi jez, your videos have been very helpful for me getting back into trad. Could you do a video on rope soloing in emergencies just using gear you'd have on your harness? Thanks

[@fredm8621]

Agree that would be super useful

[@smurf9857]

Helpful as always!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice one!

[@nathanjames3536]

Amazing place to climb and great video good advice Nathan

[@HS-tj2qp]

Is it Will Stanhope snapping the flake on Parthian Shot you're thinking of? He used a cam but I'm not sure he was the only one to.

[@connornunns7717]

The Right Unconquerable also has a couple of bits that have broken off it from cam placements, but again from the scarring on the rock it's obvious that it wasn't the first cam that had taken a fall there that calved it off.

[@logiconabstractions6596]

Your comment on the totems & walking mirror my experience as well. Dunno if it's the lobe shape, the different trigger wires and/or the bendier stem, but final result is: they don't walk much. I am significantly less likely to extend a totem cam than most others I own for that reason.

[@bryankano6247]

Id be curious about your thought ranking different rock types in terms of protectability. sandstone v granite, splitters vs traverses etc.

[@mitchellbaker4806]

You'd love Arapiles here in Australia

[@svenstucke3579]

Apparently there is a new cam on the market which covers the range of a bd .75 to 4 ( the Angel from alternativ current in Italy). Have you seen or tried it?

[@jimcroft8321]

Hey jez love the videos do you have a video about teaching lead belaying?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Not yet... on the to do list!

[@8thpsychopath745]

Have you got any experience with Rock empire cams? They're cheaper than dmm, bd or wild country and seems to have a pretty good reviews. Any advice in that case?

[@JBMountainSkills]

I have… they’re safe of course, just a touch old fashioned and feel a little rougher to use. I’ve used other peoples since, but my first set were Rock Empire ones, they served a purpose when I had a very limited budget.

[@heriothandyman3148]

Extended sling on cams - leave original crab on and use new extender or take off? Fashion and other “popular KZbin gear review” advocate it as a “top tip”. To me On - super quick and easy for 2nd … but reduce strength and using not as designed??? Off - safe but more of a faff/slower to re-rack.

[@JBMountainSkills]

DMM actually say not to leave the crab on, I only know this as someone asked them recently!

[@mitchellbaker4806]

Thoughts on totems being less good as they go up in size?