Efficient Multi Pitch Rock Climbing: Hanging Belays

[@JBMountainSkills]

Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc

[@theunpavedroads2125]

Had a crazy rope untangling epic up a long route in croatia once - the lap coils were blowing horizontally in the wind and all went through each other. Total nightmare. Now I always carry a supermarket 'bag for life' in the backpack. Clip one handle to the anchor and the other to your harness and just feed the ropes in...it's amazing.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice work!

[@jeremywhyte-hemson3589]

That's such a good idea!

[@urinetrouble4999]

this is brilliant! I've definitely had to futz around with tangles due to high winds

[@HochstartHarry]

Oh yess, you just solved one of my biggest issues on multipitch routes

[@longb1913]

what bag do you use?

[@logiconabstractions6596]

Putting whatever leftover from the previous pitch into the anchor/sling straigtht away if you've got time is brilliant. I've always waited for the 2nd to arrive. Doing it beforehand if possible makes a lot of sense to me. Sometimes it's the little things you just never thought about...

[@JBMountainSkills]

If you don't know, you don't know! Glad it was helpful :)

[@lyricgary5696]

@Johnny Zyaire Yea, have been watching on Flixzone} for since november myself =)

[@simold13]

Good video! Small tip - if you shout 'safe' as soon as you have secured yourself instead of waiting until you have the next belay rigged, your second can take you off and you can begin hauling up the rope as soon as you are ready. The second will also have more spare time to drink, put on shoes, etc. A small saving of time, but if you do this at every belay on a long route, the time adds up.

[@JBMountainSkills]

You're absolutely right, it's just an instruction / guiding habit.

[@CodaLucente]

Hi, in Italy we learn sometimes to stack ropes on one foot. It's tiring on the foot but it's much easier to pass them to your second, just swap your foot with his. Also it's much easier to belay since ropes are not in the way.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Good tip :)

[@Hrbrgggr]

4:43 - there’s actually a reason why i always do it long to short too, i think is worth mentioning: If you do it this way, the climber who leads next will pull out the short loops first. Because these loops are shorter than the following ones it’s not possible for them to catch on the bigger loops and therefore you usually don’t have any tangle this way. Because of this i really think long to short makes way more sense. (An exception is, when it’s always the same one leading. Then short to long is better because of the same reason - short gets pulled out first.) It’s just my thoughts and how i do it. I‘m a novice and may be wrong.

[@JBMountainSkills]

That's why I do it that way too! Some people seem to have success short to long though, what ever works for people is good :)

[@Matlalcueitl]

If you plan to pick up the rope and flip it onto your partner you start short loops to long ones for short loops to stay on top after the flip. :)

[@Hrbrgggr]

@@Matlalcueitl Yeah exactly. When you keep leading then you do it the other way around as you'll pass the rope to your partner. Sometimes i also put a sling around this "rope coil" and hang it to the belay station as you can really well pull out the shorter loops and stay more flexible in your movement... works well for me.

[@Hrbrgggr]

@@JBMountainSkills Yeah whatever works best for someone. Just shared some thoughts of a imho objective perspective. :D Btw. great videos. Learned a huge lot from you since i started climbing and doing multi pitches last year.

[@vikkihughes12]

I’m getting in to doing more multi pitch routes and these little tips and tricks are ace. Thanks Jez! Did my first multi pitch block lead on double ropes last week. Spaghetti-fest on the first pitch, quickly learnt why staying tangle free is so important!!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice work! It'll be second nature in no time :)

[@PAClimber]

Really appreciate you putting this video up! Just ordered a sling Mt Tshirt to support the channel

[@JBMountainSkills]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@samuellancelot7879]

Really appreciate that you teach not only hard skills, but philosophies of climbing and judgment calls as well. Would love to see a video about fall factors on multi pitch climbs. Thanks for the channel!

[@JBMountainSkills]

My pleasure, I'll give that video some thought :)

[@dave_gillan]

GROUND!! You are above the GROUND!

[@tomwells2852]

Good instructional videos with lots of handy tips

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you liked it!

[@harveywakefield7139]

Great video - just in time for my weekend plans!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Enjoy!

[@artemkondratyev2805]

awesome stuff, thank you very much

[@davidi1213]

Always very useful and practical. Thanks.

[@JBMountainSkills]

You are welcome!

[@StevenSugref]

Very helpful, thanks 👍

[@JBMountainSkills]

My pleasure!

[@formatogrande397]

another great vid JB

[@JBMountainSkills]

Cheers!

[@baderkanawati]

A couple questions. I guess if you weren’t doing a lap coil you’d belay off the belay loop, but since there’s rope on top of it then the rope loop works (rope loop works either way probably?). When would it make more sense to belay the leader off the anchor? When there’s a higher chance of them falling before they place their first piece?

[@joshuacilliers2723]

Using the rope loop is pretty common, depending on where you are. Main reason is comfort I suppose. Don't really know about situations where there's an advantage to belaying the leader off the anchor. It's certainly not common practice.

[@baderkanawati]

@@joshuacilliers2723 yeah I remember him saying that about comfort in one of his videos. Belaying off the anchor came to my mind because I also remember seeing a post about it so it made me think why is it not a common practice if it keeps the load off of you while you have a good anchor? I guess with your body you can control the softness of the catch?

[@joshuacilliers2723]

@@baderkanawati I think it's a combination of devices not really being made for doing it, and even if you use a munter hitch you'll have less control in a fall, as well as your anchor getting pulled upwards

[@JBMountainSkills]

I belay off the rope loop even when belaying the leader, mainly as habit really, if I've got a rope loop, I'll belay off it. On trad it's not normal practice to belay a leader off the anchors. If you think about the pull directions and what that would do to the belay, coupled with the effect on the orientation of the belay device, it doesn't really work. If we're talking bolts, it may be more of an option, but still wouldn't be my normal method.

[@scimitar123]

Would you ever put up pull protection on the belay incase the leader took a fall which pulled you up? I'd guess this could unseat you anchors potentially?

[@edwardpszczolkowski4791]

I've always built anchors to be multi-directional for that reason exactly. You can link nuts and things together with slings such that they can take upwards pulls and not all pop, and cams can be more secure in upward loading (if placed with care, of course).

[@JBMountainSkills]

Would I ever? Yes. Do I normally? No. As with a lot of these things, it's situation dependent.

[@FreshClipMedia]

whilst turbo faffing about on dream yesterday i figured a decent video would be methods to construct a hanging belay whilst actually hanging.

[@JBMountainSkills]

I'll add it to the list!

[@Nerd2k7]

Thanks for the video! One thing i'm a bit concerned is the fact when stacking gear on the anchor. I guess in your system it could be the case that the strand rips and all your gear lands in the wild, resulting in a real pitty. I would assume to better have a shelf that wouldn't allow gear to drop. Other than that i'm super happy that you do these videos! Keep on doing them really love em

[@JBMountainSkills]

I think if we're worried about the gear ripping, from us dangling on it, we really shouldn't be using that piece! If it was a concern, you could clip it to the rope strand, which is often the more convenient spot anyway :)

[@Nerd2k7]

@@JBMountainSkills thanks for your other suggestion 👍

[@JakkM]

Great video, thank you! In a previous video you discussed reasons for belaying of the rope loop. That discussion was mainly about belaying a second directly of the harness, but here you are suggesting belaying the leader of the rope loop as well. Are there any reasons for that? It seems to me that when it comes to belaying the leader, there really is no argument against belaying of the belay loop.

[@whitemountain]

Less wear on the belay loop and it's more comfortable holding someone's weight on the rope than the harness.

[@JakkM]

@@whitemountain But when you are belaying a leader, the weighing of the belayer is the same wether you attach the belay device to the belay loop or to the rope loop. So how does that make a difference for the comfort of the belayer? Your argument is of course valid for the direct belaying of the second.

[@simonrobbins815]

In a rescue the leader scenario it is somewhat easier to escape the system if the belay device is clipped into the rope loop instead of the belay loop.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Mainly habit - if I have a rope loop, I'll use it to belay from. Belay loop is absolutely an equally safe option in this context :)

[@matthobday4948]

Quality video mate! Have a video request if you'd consider it please, will be worth lots more thank you coffees! ☕ What puts me off pushing my grade on a long hard single pitch or taking on a big multipitch trad project, is the fear of getting stuck on the wall 🙄 as in well beyond the first pitch and not on the last pitch and/or getting further up since my last bit of bomber gear and not able to find any decent protection to use to go up or down on - very nervously looking for a lifesaver crack for a big nut! Only options I can think of are taking a less than ideal lead fall (but then what), awkward downclimbing or trying desperately to find some placement and just accept you're going to abandon some kit as you descend if you can't ab back in from the top or your partner can't then lead that pitch either. Hope that waffle makes sense! i.e. 'Multipitch bail - leaving kit behind/how not to die!' There's so much awesome UK multipitch but I don't get involved in it yet as neither my climbing partner or I would know 100% what to do safely... and don't want to be the whopper that calls in MR like a lost little lamb because I've bitten off more than I can chew! Any help would be hugely appreciated in unlocking the next level of climbing 🏔 thanks bud and again, amazing videos! I will keep recommending!

[@JBMountainSkills]

I'll put that on the list as it's come up a few times recently :) Cheers!

[@leedirom]

Thanks for this video 👍 only just asked for it on the last video 🤣

[@JBMountainSkills]

What can I say, you inspired me!

[@dibeerwolf1645]

could you pls explain handling the OVO for multipich climbing as 1) follower and 2) lead climing , if the follower come up and pass the (belay person) and climes directly ahead as lead climer ? thanks

[@trillbrown3686]

Can I ask what you do when block leading and your second approaches the belay from the right (i.e traversing towards you) but the next pitch also starts by traversing off to the right? Somehow you've got to try and get them set up in the belay on the left of you to prevent climbing over ropes etc or is it unavoidable.

[@marcosilva4219]

how do you clove hitch to the ancher if yo are hanging and don't have a ledge to step on??

[@JBMountainSkills]

One handed normally…

[@dave_gillan]

GROUND!

[@michelemaio8399]

I go climbing to go climbing 😂😂

[@aaronswank]

why have two ropes??

[@largeformatlandscape]

So they’ve got a friend when it’s lonely

[@GeeRad]

You're able to use more protection and have less drag, it's safer if one rope is cut, you can do long abseils etc

[@curvenut]

awesome video . Be safe ,wear helmet ;-)