Transform Your Property with an ADU Build part 1

[@KilroyWasThere]

Structural engineer here. Pardon the fairly long comment addressing your question in the video. The theory of the NDS section sited is concerning the bearing surface between the bolt's shaft and the sidewall of the hole in the lumber. This is ultimately what the lateral capacity tables in the NDS assume is the load transfer mechanism--the contact between lumber hole sidewall and the bolt shaft. If the hole is too large then the bolt doesn't make contact with wood, and the lateral load transfer, and therefore capacity, is theoretically nil. The NDS tables ignore the contribution of friction between lumber and concrete to lateral strength. Further, that same section sited also states that bolts shouldn't be forcibly driven. NDS commentary states that forcibly driving the bolt though the wood damages the wood surface and thus reduces the bearing capacity of the hole sidewall. So, how do you reconcile these two requirements in the real world? For engineers that never go in the field to see how things are built or interact with the people actually building homes, they'll site the code/NDS because that's the easy out. For engineers who do go in the field and see the challenges (or impossibility) of these requirements, they make note and look at the supporting research to understand the limitations of the tables. For what it's worth, I tell my framers they can go up to 1/8" bigger than the bolt diameter for sill plate anchor holes because 1) the contribution of the friction between the lumber and the concrete is real and significant when bolted down 2) a 5/8" bolt is actually 0.642" in diameter, so using a 3/4" hole is only a little over 3/32" larger. 3) sill plates are always treated and usually still wet. As the lumber shrinks, the hole will narrow relative to the width of the board (but not relative to length) due to the moisture shrinkage such that a loose hole will tighten up some in one dimension. 4) Even if it does slip, 1/16"-3/32" lateral displacement, in my opinion, is an acceptable amount given general framing tolerances and deflection limits we design for. 5) It's a better compromise between practice and theory because to actually install a sill plate requires either oversized holes or pounding the sill down (or both) anyways, which violates one or both directives from the NDS, so who are we kidding? Other structural engineers may disagree. I'll also note I don't practice in a seismic area. Thanks for sharing by the way. This is how the whole building and design community learns from each other and gets better.

[@tjstengel]

Working as a Mech Engineer for the last ~18 years, it is amazing to see the difference between an "office" only or desk engineer and one who has spent any tiny amount of time in the field or at least in assembly or around the parts they design / work on. It's amazing how much of a difference, and what you can learn, simply from watching something you design actually be assembled or machined etc. Helps with assembly and designing in the future. But also seeing how other countries do things as well can be even more eye opening when comparing what they say is important vs what we say is important. Plus engineers love to argue over nothing and cite specs when we sometimes know that the spec is written incorrectly or does not convey very well what is actually meant by it.

[@major__kong]

In vehicles or anything metal, if a bolt is going to take shear, we use a smooth shank with the threaded portion only outside of the material. The smooth shank creates a better bearing surface. Probably doesn't matter nearly as much with wood due to its softer nature, but I agree the friction between the plate and foundation is taking up a good part of the load.

[@AndrewCastellanoReal]

I'm sure it's been considered, but can't help but wonder about drilling larger then filling the gap with something like a glue, etc?

[@andreycham4797]

ellanoReal some sort of plastic inserts

[@johnmichelotti5373]

@@tjstengel Being insulated from the end effects of a design got our ourselves whipped in the 80s and 90s. Sitting down on the line or site as it were, not only gives the engineer a better view of how good the design, it also accelerates the ability to improve the design. A GM engineer who came through NUMMI, realizes one of the ingredients of Toyotas secret sauce was the ability of a factory to get their struggles all the way to the parts supplier in nothing flat. It was inconceivable that this could happen at GM, and if you had the temerity to do that it would have been one of the few things that could cost you your job at GM. Great comment. Great theories and designs are useless if they don't work in the world that we live in.

[@jefff6167]

Amazing driving. 👍 Why doesn’t this channel have at least a million subscribers?

[@BigTee-lp7qu]

Because he actually thinks he's funny, ha ha, ha ha....

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@BigTee-lp7qu 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@keithN6]

Because they focus on engineering and building science, but not stupid click bait titles and paid for product reviews.

[@pdan3676]

It doesn't matter. The size of the anchor bolt holes for 3/4" relatively reasonable. The combining the 5/8" bolt clamping force with the big flat 2"x2" square washers that you're using, it won't move the sill plates. Is the shear force is the concern? Then they need to have the Simpson Strong Tie LSTHD8 strap to the studs otherwise the nails would ripped out of the stud and the whole house fly off and leaving the sill plates intact.

[@VillelaHN]

Excellent! Looking forward to the rest of this series.

[@Dale1C]

Looks like a dream- we're building ADU's in downtown Toronto up against property lines on both sides, sometimes with existing structures on one or both sides already built up to the property line... mostly by hand!!

[@twwtb]

I was on the seventh floor of a 12 story office building during the Northridge earthquake. This was several miles away near the LA airport. I would estimate that the seventh floor swayed back and forth very gently about 1.5 feet. The curtains were really swinging!

[@MatthewHunting-ui9oj]

Always love the music for these videos. Tim, you’re awesome

[@dansullivan2954]

Pretty impressive your holes aligned with 1/16" over and 16' run. Nice job.

[@AVSMedical1]

We use a German lubricant for our sill bolts called Gutenschlick, works like magic!

[@npsit1]

I think the bolt hole size in your sill plate will probably affect the ability of the wood to resist the nut pulling through the wood. You could probably put a large plate/washer on top to make up the difference. Obviously you don't want a 1" hole for a 1/2" bolt.

[@lylewaters6161]

Stumpynubs recommended wood owl bits for drilling holes. They are fast, but their main advantage is how clean they cut on both sides. Normal auger bits that self-feed (have what looks like a screw at the end) are also fast, but they tend to blow out the back. I bought the 3-piece combo set (5/8”, 3/4”, 1”) but didn’t use them yet.

[@crism2781]

I did buy, and use them. Very happy with the performance. But they’re much more expensive than the Diablo bits, harder to source and replace (if you’re silly like me and hit the concrete occasionally) and, for mudsills, the neatness isn’t so much of a concern.

[@ogasthmaattack4145]

awesome vid tim!

[@RJ-cc1fz]

My sill bolt holes will always be at least an 1/8 inch bigger than the bolts.. if the inspector measures I’ll say the board must have dried out a 1/16….

[@BigTee-lp7qu]

@@RJ-cc1fz so why should WE believe anything you say...

[@hepparade]

Can't exceed a 1/16th larger than bolt for foundation plate in CA

[@highdesertjohn]

Great question regarding drilling oversized anchor bolt holes. Anyone who has done plating has asked this question. And yes, do not use your framing hammer to beat the plates on, 8lb sledge is my go to.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Yes to the sledge...(I know, the specs say no...)

[@highdesertjohn]

@disqusrubbish5467 using it gently letting the weight do the work of course

[@BlahBlahManYeah]

Can you put steel plates, at project owner expense, over that area to drive through till frame construction is done.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Thought about it, but they wouldn't pay

[@adubbelde1]

My new Neighbor is a builder from Bend. He had his plans done by en Architect from Bend. We all are amazed by the structural requirements that were in the plans. We are in a Very low earthquake zone.3/4" anchors with Simpson brackets are not normally used around here.

[@AwesomeFramers]

I love Bend.

[@zonevproductions]

we always use auger bits on all the framing jobs I worked on.

[@williamdemilia6223]

You are in Washington state , I cannot believe that your frost line is so shallow as compared to us in New England .. 42"-48". keep it up. thanks.

[@judmcfeters9054]

It’s the Jet Stream. In the PNW the weather usually blows in from the southwest off of the pacific, which is usually warmer than freezing. The NE frequently has weather blowing in from Canada where it has already gotten very cold.

[@williamdemilia6223]

@@judmcfeters9054 thank you.

[@AwesomeFramers]

12" frost line here 🙂

[@mdun1440]

Maybe try a bar of canning wax for the bolts? We joiners use it on the bottom of our handplanes to reduce friction. It would be easy to carry in a belt unlike liquid soap...

[@disklamer]

Hold a scrap block against the mudsill* and hammer on the block, then you can go all in without hurting your good wood. (*or anything that you want to move with a hammer but not damage)

[@bwillan]

Would your engineer allow the use of Titen HD concrete screws instead of the j-bolt anchors in the concrete? This would allow you to properly lay out the anchor locations from the beginning and not have to re-drill anything after the fact.

[@mrpanda39]

That's what they usually do. They didn't do the foundation on this one so I'm guessing the foundation guys were traditional J bolt people!

[@Braindead154]

@@mrpanda39yup they have plenty of videos talking about how they just have to have the conversation with the engineer before hand… but they didn’t do foundation on this one.

[@drumswest5035]

We rarely ever use J bolts in our high seismic zone, we use a anchor bolt that has a large square plate and double nut at the embed end, there is data out there from the concrete institute that shows it has more holding power than a J bolt.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Yep, but this late in the process for us it would have cost us time. The foundation guy had steel right in the way for the 20 we did drill.

[@JonnyCat63]

I'm not an engineer, but I am a licensed general contractor in So-Cal. 39 years in the trade, the last 33 on my own as a remodeling contractor. I've been around the block, and set enough mud sill in these situations, to come to this conclusion. Sometimes things on paper don't transfer into the real work and practical applications. When setting sill, it doesn't matter a lick if the hole is slightly larger. I always drill an 1/8" over, and I confess, in some situations, it's even had to be a little larger. With job-site situations, it's just the way it has to be done. I mean we always have to beat it in anyway, so it's always tight as heck. And once you put a bearing plate and tighten the nut, it's just not moving. And in 39 years, how many inspectors on my jobs have checked the hole diameter? Not one. We even have to have special inspectors for most epoxied anchors, and those guys (some of them engineers) could care less abut the hole diameter.) As long as it's not egregious, those guys don't check either.) I don't know anybody that drills a 1/16th over, it's always an 1/8th. I mean seriously, what framer even has an 11/16th drill bit? 😅 In theory, yes a 1/16th. In practicality, it's an 1/8th. Put me in the camp that it doesn't make a crap bit of difference. The only other thing I do, that I thought I didn't see you do, is I clean the tear outs under the sill. Those bits of wood often prevent the sill from sitting flat to the concrete. In fact, I usually take a grinder and flatten out the concrete around each anchor bolt and hold down. Most of the time, the concrete is slightly built up around the bolts. I know the finishers could do a better job, but trying to get a trowel around those bolts and keeping it flat is difficult. A spare me the whole "get better finishers" shtick. I've had good finishers and bad finishers, and it always seems to be the same. It takes a bit more time to grind, but I've found it makes the sill lay so much flatter. YMMV.

[@tonymers]

Been framing for over 24 years, I am with you on this one.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Yes to cleaning the tearouts.

[@relaxationhub3983]

I hope you’re doing well. I offer comprehensive estimating and takeoff solutions for all residential and commercial projects, regardless of size. I am using Planswift. I provide detailed estimates and charge per project based on its scope and size. Feel free to share your project plans, and I’ll send you a detailed service proposal with my fee and turnaround time. I'm looking forward to hearing back from you.

[@major__kong]

If the gap really worries someone, grab some PL construction adhesive and inject it into the gap. It will help transfer load to the bolt.

[@AwesomeFramers]

specifically non shrink grout.

[@b1zarre23]

@AwesomeFramers -why not just rest the lumber on top of the bolts, give a whack to transfer the locations instead of measuring each?

[@adammacer]

Different length bolts I think..

[@AwesomeFramers]

That doesn't actually work in real life.....real life being what you see here with the bolts.

[@andrewjblack6]

So glad this series is finally starting, was super stoked when I saw the sneak peeks on Instagram. Quick questions, might have missed the video explanation. But what are the pros/cons of going with 3x6 as opposed to 2x6? Have any preferences yourself? Thanks again for the great content!

[@AwesomeFramers]

Generally 3x is used when the shear wall is shorter so it doesn't crush as the wall cyles back and forth.

[@johnmichelotti5373]

I love your content and your channel helped me through the pandemic. My question is, if they told you the width of the driver was

[@maxracine8118]

I'm an architectural technologist and build new homes up in canada... thats wayyyyy overkill at for where i am lol. Here anchor bolts are maximum 6'-10" O/C per code. usually our guys place them at roughly 48" O/C. Also all our exterior walls are shear walls usually (treated differently depending on the type of composition). Hold downs are never required other than achor bolts where i live (wind loads are minimal here). Also here we usually have 8' foundations as we have a frost line of about 5' so the extra 3' isnt much for the amount of space you gain.

[@drumswest5035]

A little Different on the west coast in BC, we always require holdowns at the end of shearwalls. We are in a high seismic zone so Anchor bolt spacing can vary 32" to 48" ( never done 16" !) and diameter can be quite large too, it depends on what the engineer requires. Im surprised he could bend the bolt that easily, wonder what strength of steel bolt they used?

[@pcatful]

@@drumswest5035I’ve been designing homes and additions in one of the highest seismic areas of California and Hawaii (NOT engineering). Never seen closer than 48” o.c. 5/8” dia. anchor bolts specified by the engineer for light frame construction. Also I’m pretty sure the inspectors would not check the diameter of the mudsill holes-not that it might not be a good idea.

[@steveharkins279]

Terms & conditions of any contract are the 2nd only to price, very important things to learn. And should be stated in any contract before work begins.

[@scottshelley7668]

The random bolt placement is a nightmare. We usually layout our framing and window locations on the forms to try to avoid having to notch joist or studs. we also pull bolt layout from the same side so at least we aren't fight to different layouts. At 16 OC placed randomly you are going to hit all kinds of things.

[@para-cad_llc]

I guess I'm wrong. I drill the hole larger than the bolt so I can beat the plate in or out before I finally tighten the 3" square washer down using a big impact gun. Once it's TIGHT (The 3" washer is embedded a bit), the plate will never move laterally

[@chrisg2779]

I thought there was supposed to be some sort of sill membrane between the concrete and wood?

[@Doodooheadguy-fishing]

All depends on local code

[@benfowler2127]

He’s right, but I would think it’s best practice whether required or not. But it probably depends more on the treatment of the lumber you use.

[@sterlingleinen9374]

I'm not sure why it would matter on a ventilated crawlspace

[@benfowler2127]

@@bradzdanivsky That’s why I would think it’s best practice. I do remember Tim mentioning why they don’t use a sill seal, but I don’t remember what the reason was. It may have been the treatment of the wood.

[@AwesomeFramers]

No need, and its not required in the IRC. This is treated lumber that is out of the ground.

[@mrpanda39]

Im a formwork carpenter and we use vaseline to lube stuff it works great. Dont see why it wouldnt work on the J bolts.

[@chrisestill8825]

2 things: 1. I find auger bits cut faster with less vibration over a spade bit. B. Instead of having to measure every anchor bolt, you can set the sill on the ‘wrong side’ of the chalk line, set a compass to the width of your sill-1/2 bolt diameter and scribe all the locations.

[@sterlingleinen9374]

the "diablo" spades are threaded like an auger to self feed. They are faster than a traditional auger, but not as clean on the exit.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Big Foot makes a tool to do that, but I don't find it works well on stemwalls.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

If you get really excited by the hole size, an 18mm auger is between the 11/16 spec, and the 3/4 most use...

[@lorenrickey5481]

Wow, I just found a new use for my Burke bar! Straightening anchor bolts.

[@highdesertjohn]

Same way I mark and layout anchorbolts on my bottom plates.

[@Hans-k9d]

Awesome guys.. Btw..as a retired project manager with more than 35years of experience, Most of the the architect drawings just put you on headache.cause these days the best they do is copy and paste.😂they can do wonders on paper,but on site its a different story.. I was mostly on bridges,mills roadwork and buildings..i have always argued with most of the architect,consultants also with ir's. Most of the time,its all depend on your experience .if you are confident enough, just proceed .

[@stankaminski4338]

Hey Tim do you ever use sill gaskets/sill sealer between the mud sill and the concrete?

[@AwesomeFramers]

No, not between the concrete and treated plate. There isn't a need too since this is PT lumber.

[@billmccance7762]

no sill gasket or air seal caulking on top of concrete ???

[@fox156]

Personal lubricant (ky jelly) for lubing up the bolts.

[@dennishigley221]

Is foam sill sealer not required where your building? I thought it was a national code requirement

[@noelestabrooks9040]

great vid. excited to see everything come together. i'm curious how you transport the telehandler to site; do you hire out a semi and flatdeck? thanks

[@AwesomeFramers]

Yep, an excavating contrator moves it for us.

[@TrendyStone]

Interesting video! Here in the Rocky Mountains they place some sort of thin blue foam material between the concrete and sill plate. I've noticed it on all the homes here. I don't know if the purpose is to better seal around the wood for an air-tight home, prevent termites (despite using treated lumber) or perhaps moisture protection? I was told it's required by local code but don't know why. Is it something builders only do here?

[@nicholasmendoza6159]

I would have covered the tanks with 1 1/8 inch ply, ordered some rental beams, thew them across the top and more ply and then burried the ply amd the outer rock on the wall to make it all flat. billed to the customer of course.

[@nathang.1561]

i have limited experience with the PNW. is that pale rocky soil from volcanic deposits?

[@AwesomeFramers]

I don't actually know, I do no they hid hardpan pretty quickly when they dug.

[@bullittandy]

I'd think that even with an oversize hole on mud sill you could quickly and easily fix by injecting some thickened epoxy into the gap around bolt after mud sill is installed. And not that treated wood needs it, but that epoxy on the end grain inside hole would protect.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Yes, non shrink grout is what we could use if we oversize. I'd be curious to see what takees longer?

[@adammacer]

I'm gonna suggest you were making that squaring way more diffcult than it needed to be. Does the tape HAVE to be level? Nope, IF there is nothing impeding the line of the tape, or the impedence is the same for both sides. You could've marked your theoretical corners on the lower sill, 30' apart, centred on the concrete, then measured to those marks from each upper corner and checked if they were the same. If so - BOOM. If not, split the difference and re-mark one corner, then adjust the other mark by the same offset. ;) Also, I lost my 3/4 Irwin Speedbor auger bit in the middle of a timber-frame raising and had to use a Bosch spade bit (the threaded spur version) I had instead on a tenon I'd forgotten to drill.. Bloody thing wandered horribly and really screwed up the draw I put on the bore - the oak peg went bananas.. literally..

[@TheoneandonlyRAH]

No sill sealer? And caulk above and below?

[@weirze79]

why air seal a vented crawlspace?

[@TheoneandonlyRAH]

@@weirze79 capillary action of water through the concrete? and can still try to seal the house from the crawlspace, no?

[@AwesomeFramers]

No need for it when we use treated lumber on the stem walls. It isn't required in the IRC because it really doesnt do anything.

[@TheoneandonlyRAH]

@@AwesomeFramers ok thanks! learn something new every day :)

[@AndrewCastellanoReal]

Anyone know what brand carpenters pencil is used?

[@jerryminyard7460]

I think it's called a pika

[@dcl97]

Pica Dry, maybe a pica dry big

[@zed9227]

Pica

[@lorenrickey5481]

Pica Big Dry construction pencil

[@AwesomeFramers]

PicaDry

[@bigbob9702]

Silly question. Do you need a vapor barrier under the sill?? I’ve always used one.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Nope not with treated wood.

[@stevebausch72]

Perhaps PVC heat shrink sleeves? Not polyolifen, PVC. You'd need a heat gun, but the sleeves will be slippery, and will protect from concrete splatter, and possibly rust.

[@bmcooper]

Why didn't you use the Stabila L180?

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Yes. Expensive though. Any accurate laser with 90 degree beams...

[@MichaelJ674]

He already owns one-has used it in previous videos, so very good question.

[@AwesomeFramers]

The bolts were in the way and this was a teachable moment.

[@Dude-mz8su]

Those bolts are overkill. Each bolt could hold a couple tons. Probably the strongest part of the house. The rest is just nailed together.

[@jerichodesignbuild7148]

Are the import bearing plates less than .229" per the R602.11.1? I would expect that (5) .229" would stack up to be less than (5) .250" plates.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Those import bearing plates were smaller than the .229"

[@colemanstanford]

How’s that residential driveway holding up to that 33,000 lb. machine?

[@AwesomeFramers]

every reaction has an equal and opposite reaction.

[@niktak1114]

Going through with a torque wrench to get the anchor bolts at the correct torque would only take like 5 mins

[@freddyhernandez1371]

How do you work overtime , as a contractor ? Is it a back charge ? ?

[@AwesomeFramers]

Case by case. If the client is reasonable, we often just get it done and don't make an issue. If they are, then it can be a fight.

[@marcesw35]

Why no sealant on the foundation and 2x6?

[@AwesomeFramers]

No need for it when we use treated lumber on the stem walls. It isn't required in the IRC because it really doesnt do anything.

[@dustinmarquand5301]

Does the inspector actually check the diameter of rhe hole?? Id like to see him try and measure

[@AwesomeFramers]

No, but now we are getting into an ethical question. I'm hired to frame it to code/engineering.

[@steveharkins279]

Have you ever asked, your LB supplier to go to the end of the “beam chart”? In a design, 32 feet of span… 9 feet in the air.does code let a 8 3/4’s wide X 9 1/4 sit on a 2 X4 wall in a 2 X 10 ceiling.. destroying the “center hall Coilial” in redesign.

[@joshrountree]

When you're pulling tape from the first line you snap, how do you know it's perpendicular to that line?

[@adammacer]

It doesn't need to be exactly perpedicular/square - the difference of length on a 30' arc across 6" of concrete is tiny.. I'd do the sum for you but I can't be arsed..

[@AwesomeFramers]

It doesn't need to be peprendicular, just close to perpndicular. If you swing a 30' radius, then if you are plus or minus 2" it won't make a difference.

[@joshrountree]

@@AwesomeFramers thank you, I think the experience in all of this is knowing the acceptable range. I'd be out there with a robotic total station chasing 1/64

[@steveharkins279]

In your contract does it say anything about septic? Drive right over it, and Finnish the job, it’s on the homeowner.

[@MichaelJ674]

I bet you never get hired a second time by any clients 😂😂😂

[@bradywolf4879]

Is this a video from before you owned the Stabila LS180? I presume you would have used it to square up the mudsills instead of measuring diagonals on a stepped foundation …

[@AwesomeFramers]

No, its just that with all those bolts, it was difficult to set up and was a good teaching opportunity.

[@aknorth1053]

I am adding the confusion of no sill membrane. Seems like it would be cheap insurance all wood if wet pressure treated or not will rot eventually c9ncrete in contact with earth will wick moisture into the sill plate certainly not a problem now but will be eventually

[@AwesomeFramers]

Real life says differently and that is why it isn't required in the IRC because it really doesnt do anything.

[@JeffHarris1071]

Why don’t you use the Pythagorean theorem to square the building on your stem walls? Just wondering. It’s how I was taught. Trying to learn more

[@AwesomeFramers]

It is much easier to work in the unit of measurement and use the contruction calculator to just use the actual dimensions.

[@keithN6]

Is some one really going to know if you drilled the holes to big. They get covered by 3 inch plates and washers.

[@AwesomeFramers]

We are hired to build the job according the plans/specs/code/engineering.

[@zephyr1408]

Tim I watch a couple young superstars in the framing world Jarod (Coffman Const.) and Matt ( Matt Bangs Wood) & You. Yes they are very good however, your probably one of the best well rounded framers on the Job Site I hv watched! You remind me of my Dad with one exception? Dad could not teach ? If you accidentally hit the intersection when he entered ? Yep your ran over! I told you I do finish and more so custom cabinetry now. Please pray for Spencer Lewis over at “ Inside Carpentry “! His wife is fighting Cancer ( Lung) and they have two younger kids ! Spencer is like 36 yrs old . Ok Tim once again thank you for your kindness in making these and sticking to just carpentry not rants !

[@AwesomeFramers]

Those carps are me at that age.

[@steveharkins279]

You need to work on your contract exclusions. The exclusions need to be the biggest text of the contract. And it is printed in red ink.

[@michaelmiller1109]

Where is your mud seal or whatever that seals the gap between the concrete and wood?

[@AwesomeFramers]

No need for it when we use treated lumber on the stem walls. It isn't required in the IRC because it really doesnt do anything.

[@steveharkins279]

An easier way would be in the dark with 2 DeWalt DCLE34031B’s, one each in opposing low corners, shoot a dial best 90 degree lines “X”.,,,,,= square on the best crete, on a round planet, take grandpa’s 100 tapes and throw them in the dumpster. Had to do that this week. Work in the dark & the light.

[@frotobaggins7169]

No sill seal?

[@SM-xm7dt]

Zip siding then sega tape to wall at base.

[@MichaelJ674]

@@SM-xm7dtSill seal to prevent capillary action, not air leakage.

[@AwesomeFramers]

No need for it when we use treated lumber on the stem walls. It isn't required in the IRC because it really doesnt do anything.

[@frotobaggins7169]

@@AwesomeFramers I get it, I figured that's why you were using PT lumber. I was thinking more of air sealing and a capillary break. I understand that sometimes "not required" isn't the same as "it's a good idea".

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@frotobaggins7169 Since this is a vented crawl, we won't seal the mudsill. If it were a non vented crawl, then we'd use Siga Fentrim to seal the face of the Zip to the concrete. We'll be doing that over at the Madrona Project soon. kzbin.info/aero/PLSab5V2CnIbB1H5c5XgVDhqKaju0UdFt8&feature=shared

[@joshrountree]

Why not hook concrete?

[@AwesomeFramers]

Usually we are making adjustments

[@OperationDarkside]

22:29 for a second I wondered if you would The anchor bolts are the worst I've ever seen in a video. Not galvanised, in line and also crooked. I always wonder in what state of mind the person setting those was. Were they like the construction workers I saw in Germany in the 90s? Fat, smoking, drunk and sunburns 5 minutes before cancer? I know, it's probably time crunch and underpaid, but dude.

[@dredhead117]

trusses supposed to be there first thing Friday then not showing up till 3:30 is literally one of my worst nightmares

[@terrymiller5028]

If the soap isn’t working properly try KY😂

[@drumswest5035]

I would of called the engineer to see if you need the AB at 16", i bet you could of cut half of them off as i have never seen 16" spacing and im in a high seismic zone.

[@AwesomeFramers]

Good point, he won't answer my questions anymore........

[@nathang.1561]

you ask for the engineers to weigh in, but this is the real world... they dont live here, they wont hear you

[@joegrimes6485]

😂😂😂

[@franciscothedyslexic]

👏👏👏

[@major__kong]

I think the foundation guys were all drunk when they built my 1963 ranch on a slab. The wall between my living room and garage was hanging over the foundation significantly, and it wasn't a constant overhang. I finally figured out it was the foundation guys not the framers after I took my own measurements. The framers just tried working with what they were given. I had to replace that wall due to termite damage, and when I laid everything out, I noticed a huge gap between the bottom plate and the slab going into the house that I had to shim. Hold that thought. When I got around to doing the floors, the difference in height between the highest and lowest point of the slab in the kitchen area was 1 inch, and those points were about 8ft apart. The kitchen was kind of narrow, and somehow they peaked the concrete in the middle along the length of the kitchen. And it sloped down to the door going out into the garage where that bottom plate from the living room-garage wall was replaced. The slab was so out of whack over such a large area, I couldn't do self-leveling concrete one bag at a time and get anywhere. I got one of my 40 gallon garbage cans and mixed 4-5 bags at a time. When mixed, I pushed it over and let it spill out. And I think I did that twice until I reached the thickness limit the manufacturer recommended for the self-leveling concrete. I eventually got close enough where you wouldn't notice walking around. But because the door was in the low spot, I had to remove it, create a dam so the self-leveling concrete wouldn't spill into the garage, and reframe the door due to the height change. Good times.

[@CompulsoryDemocracy]

With that experience, your ready to do my 80 tract house next! All that is my next project.

[@BARB33RIAN]

Man it sucks but at the same time it's nice to know everyone goes through those lumber/truss company shenanigans. Call at 9: Oh yeah bud it's on the truck on the way to you right now. Call at 11: Oh yeah bud it's on the truck on the way to you right now. A few more calls later and whaddaya know they show up 5 minutes before we normally finish for the day. Well that and straightening out anchor bolts, or finding out they're all on the wrong side of the line lol. If I had a nickel...

[@jamesoncross7494]

So tell the customer if he doesn't meet your specks, you will charge him $10,000. That will eliminate problems.

[@vanman3752]

We built houses back in the early 70's that are still standing today without all these ridiculous code mandates. How is anyone ever going to check on the diameter of the hole when it's covered up with a 3" square piece of steel (washer)?

[@irishhandyman2009]

The crete jokeys must have had a bunch of J hooks left over from job they didnt use. LOL

[@YIQUANONE]

No one drills holes within 1/16", these engineers never worked on a job site, and it's not going to move, and they want a 3" x 1/4" washer here in CA, if the hole is too big I fill it with subfloor adhesive which is harder than the wood and then it has no gap.

[@Bobcat1950]

“I think!”, always bites me in the A__.

[@mergrew0110]

Each trade blames the previous trades, and maintain they have to correct the mistakes of those before them, up to and including the guy who hangs the wallpaper. Especially when it’s a self build 🤡😂

[@AndrewCastellanoReal]

1/16th wider lol, over so long a board, ouch

[@steveharkins279]

Anyone want to be helpful to me, tell me how to cut a ceramic tile in a bath floor, only “2 “ inches from a tub. There is no diamond multi tool blade. Only carbide…….that would be very helpful. Details 3 rd floor, concrete floor foam bead tile1/4 underbed.

[@julietphillips1991]

Forgive me...white pants on a construction site?! Why not.

[@gremlinw4858]

Construction pimp daddy! 😂

[@MurilloFraming]

it should be DADU

[@BigTee-lp7qu]

Why the 4" mudsill? Missed it if you ever said.

[@joelethalcruz4417]

I just oversized it nobody is looking anyways

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Surprised that foundation is square (and I assume level.) It's pretty ugly... Just saying...Glad you guys didn't do that.

[@feriluc]

Why not just post it?

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@feriluc it is

[@feriluc]

@@AwesomeFramers oh! Thanks😆

[@needamuffin]

There's no apostrophe in "framers" in the thumbnail needed. They aren't owning anything, it's just plural. Apostrophes are only for possessives and contractions, they're never used anywhere else in English. It's one of the very few rules in English that is a true rule, I don't know how people keep getting it wrong.

[@ianskinner1619]

meh, with that little respect for you as a builder, I'd walk on the job, you have no idea going fwd just how much this is going to cost you, not the home owner. Homeowner does not respect your business or your time.

[@BigTee-lp7qu]

@ianskinner1619 let me get you that crying towel. The one I just wiped my butt with. Doubt you have enough knowledge to walk on to your own job... oh yeah, your a day laborer I bet

[@tdotw77]

I believe the oversize holes have more to do with lessening the uplift strength\hold down force that the washer is touching and actually holding down. If the hole is way too big the potential uplift could pull washers right through a too large hole, thats why you gotta step up to washers and the thick steel square plates(3" x 3" or 4" x4") when the hole is way too big. I'm sure it can vary by jurisdiction also. 👌🏻👍🏻🛠️🔧🔩🚜🏗️🚧🦺🤔 ✊🏻🇺🇸🦅🇺🇸✊🏻

[@phillipwhitley2054]

Personally, I think engineers are over schooled common sense goes a long way. Granted your mud sill won’t come up, but framing will come loose from a mud seal, so what’s the point of the big square, washer, washers are all I have ever used in 40 years never had an issue 😀