Laying out the anchor bolts during the pour seems faster and easier in my opinion. We wet set them after the top is troweled. I dont frame but ive laid out so many anchor bolts I always get them right where the framers want them. This whole process intrigues me as I've always wanted to start bidding the framing. Basically what your doing but starting from foundations. I typically can wet set several hundred anchor bolts during a pour after the top is troweled. I go behind my guys to set them in between trucks. This has taken many years experience to be able to do tho so maybe your method is best for most.

Is that pole designed to attach to the router or is this something you built yourself? I am curious where a guy might be able to find one

In reality you should have an engineer design the lift and have a propping plan! You are all very lucky to have not been injured

Hey Tim have Paslode given you the bump fire model yet to test ?

Any tips and tricks to keep my marriage together?

Plumbers and electricians will still find a reason to hole saw completely through a top, or bottom plate, carrying beam, or any other important framing if it suits them. Its like those trades are why murphys law exists 😂

Nice. Can I get one in titanium?

Am I the only one that can't get the Isotunes to stay in my ears?!

I have done stuff like that but be careful that can be death

That is an excessive amount of nails for backing but electricians and plumbers or any other trade that needs to penetrate the top plate to route into the attic will appreciate that you aren’t nailing in the bay.

dude this is so shotty, do it right

Why screws instead of nails? I'm an old dog that came up before nail guns. I remember racking walls and needing the brace nailed quickly. The form bar is handy as heck. I keep one in my truck when off road.

First off don't use one of those nailers

Yes Mr Awesome framer, nail your backing directly on top of the studs

Your the kinda boss everyone loves

I wonder if now the kitchen drain runs uphill? 🤣

Bought a 3 ton mini Ex and can do all my trenching on my time and save the customer $ on rental rates. At the end of the day I own it and can sell it or upgrade when needed

Math is so fascinating. I think it’s what ultimately drew me into carpentry. That and the cool tools. Gots to have cool tools

We did something similar today. It popped one of our windows though.

I might actually clean the job if I see you guys

Looked like your cut wandered a bit toward the bottom, could just be camera angle though. I love using the chainsaw to stack cut I-joists like that, but i also draw a line on the side to follow, otherwise my bottom joists are likely to be out by a bit.

whats a shinned

As a plumber, I want to say thanks.

Cripless n Seattle

Almost left the building trade in the early 80s just to do custom stairs ( glad that I didn't) The range and scope of stair systems is very extensive ,as large as the structures we build. Its as clear to me now as it was in the early 70s when I helped my dad put in a spiral .....stair case building is a trade ! Intesive and extensive time, labor, capital, bitching, cursing and divorcing all rolled up in one package, if you can make it long enough for the math and your ability to gel......you survive and you are ready to start your life again. I am a builder but I am a Carpenter first and by trade, I know ( mostly) what went into the framing and finishing of these Stairs, much respect ! Thanks for taking time for your videos , after some years of watching many of your videos ,I thought I would do me a video of something .....no way , I am so focused on the projects and task at hand , I can't make myself or have anyone else video......lol , I have never found a good place to stop working and start filming......even where and when to set up a tri pod , ......it's pathetic ! I might feel like a Super Man sometimes but I swear the recording equipment must turn into kryptonite on the Job Site .

You can save time, money and material by just using drywall clips you don’t need that nailer. • Also use the clips instead of wall pockets, and California corners. • The only place we use studs in the corners on the walls is where shelving would be, like in closets

If only other trades treated carpenters with the same level of considerstion. Last big site I was on I had an hours worth of coving work ripped down by the HVAC guy who came in for half a day. Most annoying thing Is they destroyed my work first then told me, rather than ask. It was complicated and tricky to work out, even the cuts themselves were difficult as it was wrapping around a steel I beam which was being left exposed. That’s just 1 example this thing happens constantly. I don’t mind if someone asks because at least it gives a chance to think of a workaround. Wasting my time like that though is essentially stealing cause I’m getting paid to do the job, not by the hour.

Perfection? Or easy way haha

Larry was a beast

Not sure what you mean by joist bay. Someone said stud bays, guessing we mean cavities. Why? Are you using 5” nails? Even if they protrude inside a cavity what’s the problem? Furthermore, it’s good practice to nail your backing to your plates from the edges of the backing angled to the top plates.

I joists are crap. Just because you follow the manufacturers maximum length etc. doesnt mean the results are ok. I just bought a home in WA but skipped over another we called the bounce house made out of composite.

Isn’t balloon framing for those old sears houses and they are not done that way anymore cause fire consumes the whole building where building decks on top stops fire from traveling through hollow parts of framing decks as in 2nd floor where rim joist is outside not adding a rim joist interior. Would love to hear some constructive comments and questions

Nothing screams "Quality", more than wet OSB!!!!!!

The trick is to use a nail gun with air so you aren't moving or working like a 90 year old framer. It's like watching paint drying.

So that they won't hit a nail later when drilling holes through the top plate?

Anyone who doesnt do this is just wasting time later

30:05 I’m sort of surprised with all the care to use robust everything that you got away with out using the extra heavy nails that fit the holes in the brackets without any wiggle. I hated nailing those things in.

But your top plate is staggered nailed in the stud bay by code anyway

As an electrician I would love to work with a GC that is thinking about his subs. It’s hard when you constantly need to think about every other trade but no one cares about your trade.

Nice to see you’re always thinking of the end and for plumbing adjustments for toilet flanges etc

Timber joinery is the only way🎉

Initially, very poor design. With a span that far and the load of two levels and roof on the beam, why wasn't an appropriate or larger steel beam used. Then, there wouldn't be this sag issue. Also, when jacks from the top or bottom, why weren't the jacks fixed to timber. When the jacks were on the bottom, the timber must be perfectly flat. Then, the jacks couldn't kick out on the starting attempt and it would also prevent any on the job injury. In Australia, adjustable acrow steel props (screw jacks) fixed to timber top and bottom are used to when the final position of the beam is achieved. Further, why not install a steel plate and bolt to the existing beam.

Small correction. "Stud bay" not "joist bay" But you are 10,000% spot on with this. Always stack nails over the top of studs with each layer... so you dont F over the plumbers, electricians, and hvac when they go to rough in the utilities.. Bottom plate wants a specific nail pattern as well so you can leave each bay open for drilling and roughing utilities into the crawl space. Learned this one the hard way myself 😬

Proper trade work means thinking about the next guy. Making their life difficult compromises your work.

You should install squash blocks on the wood I beams for the temp wall. Also you can use screw jacks on the beam and the temp wall to take the load of the floor system off the beam and spread the load across the slab. A point load without a footing underneath the slab can punch shear through or crack the slab. Flitch plate would also be something to consider for the beam.

Hope you have good workers compensation insurance. Stupid is as stupid does.

That span should have been a steel beam

7 to 15 feet? So they more than doubke in size? Mine only go 6 to 9 or 9 to 15.

Another useless tip

The work you will gain by doing the right thing will more than pay for the time and materials you use. Plus you can sleep well knowing you did the right thing. I wish more people had your attitude.