Transition: Fourth to Fifth Class Climbing

[@brendanmaggs]

Awesome, interested to learn that coil you tied here.

[@dylanbistany6498]

Hey glen, thanks for the video. I am curious about tying off that coil. I found Mikebarter's video on the magic WOW coil but I am curious on how to tie off the rope to carry it on your chest like that. If there are any resources that you could share about that i'd appreciate it!

[@ASNIV_]

Never used that coil. Looks awesome

[@johng1097]

So many good tips !

[@skillsforclimbing]

Thanks for your support @johng1097!

[@summitseekersexperience]

One improve would be clove on your belay loop on the back of your follower clove. Then you don’t need the PAS.

[@skillsforclimbing]

Yep, that would save a bit of time and a piece of material in the transition here. Thanks for watching!

[@Tutamten]

You are basically scrambling up to the ledge and then belay your partner? Why can't he scramble as you did? Whats "climbing context" of this situation?

[@skillsforclimbing]

That's a great question @tutamten. In a recreational context with two partners who are similar in ability level the belay isn't really necessary. When guiding or if you are recreating with someone who has less ability in the terrain then this makes more sense. When I'm recreating I often still use coils and leave the rope on in easy terrain even if I'm not belaying my partner. This has to do with efficiency. I will sometimes coil the rope on my body while I belay to transition easily into walking when my partner arrives, and leaving the rope on saves time by not having to untie. It also can reduce the liklihood of rockfall compared to simulclimbing with significant rope out, and in some instances- but not the one demoed here- it can offer additional security since the strand between myself and my partner can be flipped over horns or other terrain features to protect against a catastrophic fall. Thanks for watching and asking about the context for this!