Transmission Flush Vs. Fluid Change and Service

[@DCSPORTSTER]

Your recommendation is exactly what I do and I change the fluid out every 30,000 miles. It’s an older Honda Ridgeline 2010. I also installed an in-line filter going to the transmission to help keep the dirt out of the transmission and the fluid clean. So far I’ve never had a transmission fail, and I have been driving for 50 plus years. I still do all my own service work being a mechanic I am.

[@frequentlycynical642]

Why do you add a filter when the transmission comes with a well designed one? Your auxiliary filter has to have a lot of surface area to equal the factory one. Sounds really anal retentive to me. Most people never have had an automatic transmission fail. The one time I did it was due to a part breaking. Known defect by then. Nothing to do with oil purity.

[@johnvgig]

@@frequentlycynical642on a Toyota truck, the "well designed" filter is a fine mesh screen. So hardly a filter at all.

[@oscarbravo9009]

50 years? You should pull over and take a break!

[@waynzwhirled6181]

This is great. You did an excellent job laying this issue to rest. Thank you. I'm a changer (fluid AND filter). I avoid the flushes.

[@crand20033]

How many drain and fills do you it do per change?

[@cal48koho]

as a mechanic I agree entirely with your recs. In fact that is what I generally do. If the transmission has never been serviced and has high miles say over 150 K I do it every other or every third oil change with 5000 miles as my normal oil change interval. When it becomes red which usually takes 4-5 changes I ease back to about every 4th or 5th oil change.

[@JoseMartinez23244]

So I got a car with 155,000 miles and never change the fluid. Never tow with it can I change the fluid ?

[@cbpuzzle]

@@JoseMartinez23244 Do it by exchanging two 2 -2.5qt cycles through draining the pan at a time for 5 qts. Then wait 10-15K. Do that again 3-4 more times. Then maybe do a full forward flush from the cooler line. You want to give it time to dissolve any gunk without causing slippage.

[@Josh_3165]

I have an 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 got my 1st BG Transmission Fliud Service at 90k they add Chemical to old fluid and remove then add new Fluid, just got my 2nd BG Product Fluid Flush and Removed at 136k will I be ok

[@Dougie2fly]

@@Josh_3165Same thing with me

[@nicholaspetre1]

This is exactly what I did with my Honda Accord where previous degenerate owner never changed transmission fluid. I got the car when it had 180k miles on it. First time the drained fluid looked like water from a puddle. I immediately drained 3.5 qts, took it for a spin for 20 miles, then drained again. I did 6 fluid changes on total within the next 10K miles to bring it to decent shape. Now it is bright red and I am planning to drain and fill 3-3.5 qts every 3 oil changes or about 10K miles.

[@TargaWheels]

How I did my fluid change last time (on two cars) was to pull a line from the trans cooler, face the hose down towards a bucket, pull the dipstick (make sure I have a case if trans fluid), get a funnel in the dipstick tube, start the car and fill through the dipstick tube as its dumping the old fluid in the bucket. Keep going until the fluid looks clean, shut off the car, reconnect the hose to the cooler, start the car check the level, done. It took at least 5 but less than 10qts to do it. That was a few years and many miles ago. Car runs like a champ. The old fluid was black. Its risky this way, but if prepare everything beforehand, its pretty easy.

[@davidsauls9542]

%100 Agree. I did that with my 2005 Jaguar XJ8 and after 367,000. care free miles she was traded.

[@nicholaspetre1]

Very well said. Just change it regularly and it always remain clean.

[@jefferyjustus7225]

I do a drain and fill on the pan. Then disconnect cooler line, start engine, capture two liters of old fluid that is being pumped out by the transmission. Stop engine, refill with two liters. Repeat, till fluid runs clean. Reconnect cooler line. Check level. Add if needed. Now you have completed a full fluid flush, without endangering the transmission. You are welcome.

[@franktarawa1300]

I do the same. After 4 drains, assuming 50 % each drain, the fresh fluid will be 50, 75, 87.5, 93.75 %.

[@wryanddry2266]

@@franktarawa1300 Two liters isn't anywhere near 50%.

[@franktarawa1300]

I didn't mention liters, only percentages@@wryanddry2266

[@dirtydogvideo]

​@@wryanddry2266 someone cant read.

[@sreitshamer]

Yes. No high pressure or detergents this way. I just let it run and keeping pouring fluid into the dipstick hole.

[@EB-vs3oo]

As a mechanic I agree. I recommend a drain and fill and filter change if applicable. Also, I know with most cars today checking the fluid is sometimes nearly impossible. Jeep Cherokee hardest. But checking it and topping it off is very important. If just topping the trans off, you can use a Univeral fluid as long it recommended for your trans. When you are changing the fluid, I recommend buying the fluid from the dealer or getting a very good brand, example Idemitsu, liqui moly, pentosin, zF, motul, Valvoline, Castrol, Enso. Make sure you get the correct type for your vehicle. That is very important.

[@redlywaxer]

Nothing wrong with a cooler line "flush" or better described, a "fluid exchange". Avoid trans cooler flush machines. If the trans has a drain plug, just drain and refill...yes you only get out about half the fluid or less, but this changes the ATF fluid gently on a unit that has been neglected. The neighbor's son was visiting from out of town today. Unknown history on his newly aquired 2018 Ford Edge with 107,000 miles. I drained out about 4 qts very black auto trans fluid from his 6 speed auto. Dumped a gallon of new Maxlife Mercon LV ATF back in and went for a 5 mile drive, then drained out 4 more quarts of black ATF and refilled with 4 more new quarts Maxlife ATF. Drove and repeated a third time and the draining fluid looked a little more red and a little less black finally. Refilled 4 qts and called it good. Shifting much better. 2.0L 4 cyl turbo. Replaced oil & filter, spark plugs and coils. Runs like new

[@hishamelshoni7235]

You r 100 percent correct. I did repeated drains and fills on 330000 km lexus es330 4 times with 1000 km in between, and it went great

[@bobimbordino3024]

I just do a fluid change with a filter change. 163,000 miles on my transmission without any problems. I get my transmission serviced every 30,000 miles or 4yrs.

[@dmack7328]

It is a whole different ball-game today... I have been in the business for almost 50 years now!!!

[@cedricmendoza1305]

my transmission fluid has never been changed. 2003 tacoma . 171k miles . it’s dark. should i change or just leave it alone

[@bradnewton1680]

@@cedricmendoza1305 Change it! Do just like this guy said...some people will drain and refill 3 times...I would drive it a week or two then drain refill 2nd time. Drive it 2 weeks then do 3rd time.

[@stephenbay9564]

This is a great video, and I agree with your thinking. Now with that said - there are too many people out there, that don't even change their oil when they should, so trying to get them to change the trans fluid - may be asking too much. But for those that DO maintain their cars, the fluid change idea makes a great deal of sense. It's what I have been doing for the last 20+ years, and I've no problems or issues. Thanks for this video!

[@Prepare2Survive]

I just do a transmission fluid drain, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the transmission pan, install a new pan gasket, torque the bolts to the appropriate specs and refill the transmission with the appropriate amount and type of fluid bought at the actual dealership. I do this every 50k-60k miles and typically this allows the transmission to last 300k-400k miles without any issues. I would NEVER have a transmission "flushed" for the exact reasons you mentioned. It's just not worth the risk. If you can't change the fluid yourself just ask a shop to change it and specify you do NOT want it flushed.

[@tssci6774]

There is a lot misinformation about the term flush, and does mean the same thing. Today the correct term is fluid exchange. No flushing, back pressure, or high pressure, and no chemicals used.

[@Prepare2Survive]

@@tssci6774 That's good to hear, but I still prefer to do it myself and save some money.

[@tssci6774]

@Prepare2Survive I do the fluid exchange myself, doesn't require a machine, and I get 95% replacement and saves $200 in labor.

[@Prepare2Survive]

@@tssci6774 Are you also replacing the filter or are you just replacing the fluid?

[@csan255]

@@tssci6774 At what mileage did you do a fluid exchange? Do you have the sealed transmission type?

[@mikeeeeee555]

Drain and refill is ideal because it adds back a number of critical additives that have been degraded over time. Do a drain and fill every 50k miles and you won’t have any issues.

[@donwyoming1936]

Just did the fluid replacement on my 2010 Ford Escape per the manual. Recommended at 103k miles. Did mine at 136k. Easy. 1 drain plug. No filter replacement. Drain, fill, drive. Drain, fill, drive. Drain, final fill. Only half the fluid drains, ~4.5 quarts. Took 14 quarts to complete. Leaves you with ~89٪ new fluid in there. 🤠

[@blackericdenice]

You still have an old filter with dirt from 136k miles.

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

HEY, good advise, really good idea !

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

@@blackericdenice yes, but he said the Escape does not have a filter ? if so no need

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

@@blackericdenice confirmed google it, escape doesnt have a trans filter

[@blackericdenice]

@@AdrianJayeOnline It has a filter, You have to take the transmission apart to change it.

[@timschreiber1584]

Just do the fluid change at 40,000 miles you will never have an issue. Flushing always causes issues most don’t actually do it properly.

[@pauliedweasel]

I have a used 2009 Ford E-150 utility van that I bought in February 2020 to start hauling our stuff from our old house in Los Angeles to a house we bought in Prescott Arizona that was for our retirement. The van had 3 former owners and had 78k miles on it at the time of purchase. We made a total of 15 trips to AZ and the van performed flawlessly and we finally pulled the plug on California in April 2021. At the time of retirement the van had about 92k to 93k miles on it and I put another 5k on it over here and finally did a full service on it in December of 2023 at the 98k mile point. When I dropped the trans pan on 4W75 it still had the yellow plug ball floating around inside that is from the factory so apparently the pan had never been off before so it was either flushed or siphoned at some previous point. The fluid was dirty and I even form a small shiny metal flake in it. I replaced the filter and installed a new Dorman trans pan with a drain plug and refilled it. The trans seems to be working fine and as precaution I have already drained the pan and put in four more quarts of Mercon LV and instead to drain and fill it again in an attempt to further dilute many of the old remaining fluid that might have been in the valve body or torque converter. The van is just about at the 100k point and I’m hoping it will give me another 50k to 100k with no major problems.

[@ericl2969]

You are right that keeping the oil fresh in the first place eliminates all the issues associated with a massive oil change later in the transmission's life. I do what you recommend, changing the oil at a similar mileage interval to that which you recommend, but I take it one step further. When it's time to change the oil, I drain and refill a few times in a row over the course of a few days of normal driving (driving a fair bit in-between changes is necessary to re-mix the oil, which is necessary for this method to work). I do it at least four times, but usually five, and sometimes even six. On the vehicles I've had, only 1/3 of the oil can be drained at one time. That means that with just one drain-and-refill cycle, 2/3 of the old oil remains, but the proportion of truly "old" oil that remains gets diluted down to a lesser value with each additional change. If you drain and refill 1/3 of the oil five times in a row over the course of at least that many days of normal driving, the proportion of old oil remaining is only 0.13. If you do this six times in succession instead of five, the proportion of old oil remaining is only 0.09. A lot of oil is wasted with this method and so the cost is pretty high, but with shop prices being what they are, it's still more economical than paying for a flush, and the results are comparable, in terms of how much old oil actually remains when the process is done (ask your shop for the real details and you will see that the flushing process is far short of 100-percent complete). The thoroughness of the oil-change process with this method is so good that I feel comfortable stretching my oil-change interval to 40,000 miles. The oil still looks like new when after another 40,000 miles has gone by and "it's time" for another change. If it sounds like a lot of work to do a few changes in a row, here's a time-saving tip that makes the job go really fast. Get two identical one-gallon jugs (one of the jugs is for measuring new oil so it must be spotlessly clean). Take the drained oil from your collection pan and pour it into one of those jugs. Now put the two jugs side by side and fill the other jug the identical amount with new oil (for jugs made of colored plastic, it helps to have a bright light to shine through and reveal the oil level more clearly). Now you have made sure that the volume of oil you will add is exactly the same as the volume that was drained, so there's no need for the usual trial and error when re-filling. In this way, your actual hands-on labor time for the entire drain-and-refill process is only about 5 minutes (I usually leave the transmission draining overnight or even much longer since it will keep dripping forever and the longer it drips, the larger the amount that gets drained, but that isn't part of your work time). If you drain more than a gallon of oil from your transmission, use the jug-comparison method to exactly measure how much oil is needed beyond that first gallon. This method requires that you have a drain plug, which is why I install my own drain plug on any transmission that doesn't already have one. For a transmission with a steel pan, I cut a pipe coupling in half and braze it to the bottom of the pan (first remove the layer of galvanizing from the location where the drain plug will go, and then paint that area when you are done so it doesn't rust). The actual plug is just a standard pipe plug. By the way, the guys who get more complete changes by disconnecting a cooling line and adding additional oil "on the fly" to keep from accidentally running too low while the transmission parts are spinning have got the right idea, but I prefer my method because the amount of labor and effort is virtually zero. I edited this post regarding the results of the math, since the math wasn't quite as straightforward as I had first thought.

[@InsayneVidz]

Thank you this clears up a lot of uncertainty I've got two vehicles over 100,000 miles and I was concerned if a fluid change would make it worse but it doesn't seem like it so I'll give it a shot

[@hesmycat]

My favorite transmission fact is the Ford power shift gearbox. When mine stopped working I was really confused, because there was no dipstick to check the fluid. Then I looked it up and they said it was a lifetime sealed transmission. This is technically true considering the transmission never got to a mileage where you would flush it before it stopped working. Thanks ford.

[@Grant849]

Yeah I hate the lifetime BS. I drained my fluid at 150k miles and it was darker than an eclipse. Put new fluid and i immediately noticed a difference

[@MarzNet256]

Cool. I do a single ATF drain and fill every 30k miles.I also do rear diff and TC every 30k as well. My 2006 Matrix 4WD has over 221,000 miles and shifts great.

[@JohnChann-w2s]

Hello young man I own a 2007 tundra 5.7 liter, very bad mpg but I love my truck. I need my truck for towing my 22 ft fishing boat every summer. It has 189500 miles on it. She runs perfect, the whole power train. I have been doing the drained and refilled for years. I think I probably over doing it because I perform that task every year just before towing season. Enjoy your video, very educational. Thank you, by the way this is John Chan the fisherman

[@macegarage9603]

Just do it 5 years or evey 30kMiles.

[@macegarage9603]

Toyota Fan here.

[@JohnChann-w2s]

@macegarage9603 hi Yes sir, at the moment my wife and I own 2007 tundra, 2013 rx350, 2018 nx300, 2023 gr86, and last but not least 2007 rx350, and a toy a 22 ft boat with a 2006 Suzuki 175 hp four strokes. Yup like and trust toyt. Used to own many different types of cars. Just to name a few EvoX, c7 vett, 911 cs4, mustang RTR....ext.

[@macegarage9603]

@@JohnChann-w2s amazing man , thanks for sharing.!

[@macegarage9603]

@@JohnChann-w2s aren't they almost superb in comfort as well as reliable daily driving car. (Excluding 86 i guess) I'm not a type of guy always looking for power(having enough HP are just good to me), going to point A to B is enough from my point of view.

[@charlesyoungblood7561]

Awesome video! I have a F250 super duty and opted for the filter change and refill, which changes about half of the trans fluid and fresh filter. I get to inspect and clean the pan and magnet so I can see what is happening in the trans. A little messy but I have had good luck with this. I can do everything myself so the cost is not as big of a deal.

[@garyradtke3252]

Changing your fluid and only getting part of it changed is the way it has been for many many years for most transmissions. The only ones I can remember having torque converter drains was the Ford C6 and Chrysler 727 and 707 trans. from the 70's until the lock up converters came along. The cooler and lines still had a quart or two unless extra steps where performed. I have a 2016 ram and checked with the dealer for a fluid change or flush. What ever you want to call it and they quoted me $900+ for 9 Qts of fluid and labor and stated there was no filter to be changed. I knew the pan had a filter made into it. I didn't want to crawl under my vehicles anymore but out of necessity I did. It still cost me approx $400 for fluid and filter. I did first change with pan/filter. Drove it a couple weeks and change fluid only the second time. It still doesn't get it all but first off I don't tow much any more like I did with my old truck which had 240,000 miles on it when it was rusted out so bad the door strikers where gone and I traded it at 17 years and 2 trans fluid changes. That 2500 I towed a lot with through hilly country and some mountains with as much as 13000 lbs. I think this 1500 truck I use mostly as a passenger car transmission will out live me without worrying about excessive fluid changes.

[@Sstantial]

I bought my 2010 Honda Odyssey with 59k miles. I did the drain and fill 3X (short drive after each one. Then by 80k I bought a harbor freight 110 volt small irrigation pump for outside water pond. I plumbed it up to vinyl tubing. I disconnected the transmission oil cooler line at the radiator, had someone crank the engine so I could tell which is pressure and which is suction. I then tool a 3 gallon soft tank used for flushing boat motor outdrives with antifreeze, cleaned it out super clean, and put 12 quarts of the correct Honda ATF in and plumbed it into the pump. I ran a two foot piece of vinyl tube from the pressure side coming off the radiator. I have someone start the engine and I start the pump at the same time. In the clear vinyl tube I can see the color coming out. I run the pump and engine until it turns red, turn the engine off and stop the pump at same time. Remove pump, reconnect ATF hoses, do a leak check, then check and correct ATF level. It was all of $50 or $60 initial cost for the pump, tubing, and some fittings and I have done my own flush every 30k miles. Have also done another friends Honda car with same set up. Because I bought it with low miles, and kept up with transmission service, and when Honda called for a drain and fill, I did a flush, I bet this transmission will last a very long time! It currently has 205k and shifts perfect!

[@rosspbarnett458]

If you want your trans to last 200K +, get the trans serviced, not flushed. I learned this from experience !

[@flamer7763]

or get manual, it will last 300 without any service :D

[@332ARA]

I figure I can do a fluid/filter change and then drain and replenish a couple of more times in few hundred miles and accomplish the same thing.

[@frequentlycynical642]

@@flamer7763 Yeah, that's the solution. /s By 300K on a stick shift you will have replaced the clutch, perhaps the pressure plate, and the the throw out bearing at least three times. And then when the pilot bearing runs dry because the last guy didn't lube/replace it, it all comes out again.

[@flamer7763]

@@frequentlycynical642 clutch is very rare to fail before 200k if you are not a new driver, its True if you dont know how to shift properly

[@frequentlycynical642]

@@flamer7763 You're picking nits. Every car and driver is different. I'll say that they've gotten a lot better. I remember my father replacing the one in our 1949 Studebaker, well under 100K.

[@ruckinehround6965]

Have a 2014 Honda CR-V have been changing the trans fluid every third oil change…..about 15k kilometres not miles…..new fresh fluid all the time. I do all my own maintenance so it’s just therapeutic time for me. Plus I keep my vehicles for as long as I can practically keep them running.

[@zone4garlicfarm]

I change the fluid and filter every two years in my van and pickup regardless of mileage. It usually works out to 25-35k miles. In the pickup I adjust the bands and replace the check valve at the same time. I've only needed to replace a transmission once and that was in a 1996 Dodge pickup with 186,000 miles. Dodge transmissions were notorious for failing in those trucks.

[@markromano6417]

I flushed my transmission at 40 thousand and agree with you. FREE CLASSIC AND MUSCLE CAR SHOW SECOND SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH AT THE KAUAI DMV 🤙🌴

[@TheMonchesta]

I have a Kia rio 2009, a have it since 61K km and a do a Change every years. doing good so far now at 168 K km.

[@hugh007]

My F150 has 260,000 miles - same engine and trans. Regular oil changes, and drain, filter and fills in the trans every few years. Last time I did a disconnected cooler line and 'flushed' the fluid and refilled as necessary. Thanks

[@cbpuzzle]

Best way is a "forward fluid exchange". Run the cooler return line to a bucket with a hose. Rig up a secure funnel into the trans fill hole. Drain the pan and refill the same amount from the funnel. Start the car, start dumping in new fluid, click through the gears 3 seconds each, go until it shifts instantly from brown to red. Turn off the key immediately. Done. Hardest part is getting the car up high enough to drain the pan, while keeping it level for the refill and rigging up a stable and strong funnel system that won't cause a panic during the procedure.

[@kenforu1531]

Sometimes BOTH are needed! A machine IS NOT required. 46year tech here.

[@stressederic64]

Best sensible advice ive heard in a long time - thanks

[@billbright1755]

Shot of Tijuana river was worth the price of admission alone. Fortunately just fortifying the fluid with new is a great way to extend longevity.

[@wholeNwon]

Of course. I simply drain and refill (2 qts. in my case) with alternate engine oil changes. I keep my cars just about forever and zero trans. problems.

[@StayPositive-sd8op]

I had the same issue with the oil. I had an older grand prix, and i was using regular oil. So i chose one time to use a high mileage oil, and after the oil change, i started having to add oil. So after a few oil changes i decided to go back to the original oil, and i never had to add oil again. I think the detergens in the high millage oil cleaned it to good, and it took away all deposits that was actually helping to not lose oil

[@pierrerouvroy2433]

100 percent right... regular maintenance and not driving like a fool will certainly do the trick,,,

[@Number6_]

You are right. I have always done it this way with no problems. Same with brake fliuld change what is in the reservoir once a year and have no problems.

[@nickv4073]

Won't work with brake fluid. What's in the brake lines stays in the brake lines. Brake fluid does not circulate. You need to bleed them to get fresh fluid in the lines. Its the only way. You're wasting your time.

[@Number6_]

@@nickv4073 an illiterate opinion! I'm an ASE brake tech and have been doing it on my car for years. Are you just guessing or did some one tell you it doesn't move.

[@nickv4073]

@@Number6_ Dude, just Google "Does Brake Fluid Circulate". I guess you missed that day at ASE school.

[@nickv4073]

@@Number6_ Dude, just Google "Does brake fluid circulate". Its really that simple.

[@nickv4073]

@@Number6_ Just do an internet search "Does Brake Fluid Circulate?" I have a hard time believing you're an ASE Certified Tech since you don't even know the basics of how the brake system works..

[@TiesOfZip]

I know everyone has diff taste thoughts on this, but just my anecdotal experiences working in big dealers and small dealers as a tech, more often than not you drive it in, do the trans service, and have to push it out.

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

A home flush uses no pressure or detergents but it does change more than 90% of the fluid. I've done this for decades. The same method can be done on the power steering system also.

[@tssci6774]

The term transmission flush machine or services is no longer accurate. Its been over 20 years since the industry shifted away from high pressure, chemical back flush services. Today these machines or service are referred to fluid exchange service. They merely capture the normally flowing fluid through the cooler, and return the same amount of clean fluid. Sometimes they may back flush the cooler, but that is all. For a 9qt transmission, it will take about 11 qts to fully exchange the fluid. I bought a 2012 Chevy with 90k, they did not do a service at 45k. It was black and burnt, oul analysis showed high wear metals and insolubles, and start to have some driveability issues. I did a complete fluid exchange. All issues stopped, did another exchange at 140k. At 190k miles still running great. I agree with a 30k spill and fill. If the filter and sump( no pan) is unserviceable, I recommend full exchanges or an external inline filter with magnets built in and magnetic fill plugs. If the transmission is already slipping, as the first commentor reported, than a full exchange is not recommended, instead 2-3 drain/fills with with a few thousand miles in between. Recently subscribed, good videos.

[@jamesmonahan3904]

Have an old Ford 4-speed automatic reverse is slipping and won't move

[@jamesmonahan3904]

Any suggestions other than tearing it down

[@jaywebb0113]

@@jamesmonahan3904 a fluid exchange/service wont fix a slipping trans. there might be a mechanical problem. The only way a fluid issue that can cause that is lack of fluid

[@jadore1339]

@@jamesmonahan3904my brother had the same problem and did a flush and it fixed it.

[@evelynrodriguez9310]

That’s not true I just was told recently that I needed a transmission flush and it was right at the limit of where I need to be flushed in today. I was driving and it won’t go past second gear.

[@Kevin-p5o3d]

You didn't 'put this to bed' as you stated, but rather left even more confusion for people who know nothing about automatic transmissions. No worries, I'm here to help. 1) There are no 'particles' floating around in the transmission unless there is very fine metal which the filter will not capture. 2) Any 'particles and debris' are sucked up by the filter, that's it's job. You will not see them unless you dissect the filter. 3) There is [nothing] that will 'wash away' and make the clutches start slipping. Any time fluid is changed on a unit with burnt fluid, and the filter is not replaced, the filter will generally clog up, causing low line-pressure and clutch slippage accordingly. Anytime a filter is restricted, the pump cannot make full line pressure (which is what applies those clutches under severe force), and then the clutches and band(s) will slip. 4) Lots of automatics have filters that are enclosed in the transmission case, and cannot be replaced. Flushing one of those units will lead to transmission failure. Just like a football game, don't try a 'hail Mary' pass to make a touchdown by doing a 'flush', take it a step at a time and slowly get the fluid up to brand new condition. The ONLY thing I flush here at my shop is the toilet. 5) When a vehicle comes into my shop, I analyze the fluid condition FIRST. If it is really dark and nasty, I will either remove the pan, or bore a small hole (where I will be installing a drain plug kit anyways) and do a few drain/fills FIRST, and THEN I will lower the pan and swap the filter. I do this in order to avoid placing a new filter into contaminated/burnt fluid. 6) In states such as Florida where the outside temps are much hotter than others, fluid changes need to be done every 10-15K miles, depending upon the vehicle. 7) Here in Florida, there is no such thing as 'lifetime' fluid. I service vehicles all the time here, with very low miles, and the 'lifetime' fluid is burnt black. 8) I have a Camry service video I recently posted. The car only has 37K miles and the fluid was toasted. In order to know when to change the fluid, keep monitoring it frequently and you will see the fluid deteriorating over a period of time. Just keep it looking new, it's that easy.

[@ivobiancucci4528]

2005 Ford Escape with 317,000 kms I change the fluid (drain/fill) every 30,000 km or two years. I change the oil every 5,000 km (5w30) not (5w20) Never had any issues with the transmission or engine. I use Walmart oil (Ford OEM) filter for the oil changes.

[@williamswindle5445]

My 01 Frontier has just over 308k miles. I changed the transmission filter at 125k and now I'm going to do so again.

[@rdkirk3834]

In agreement what you said about flushes, I'd simply never advise one for anyone in any case. If the fluid has been changed at 30K mile intervals, it isn't needed. If the fluid hasn't been changed at 30K intervals, more frequent drain-and-fills (including tapping the line at the cooler to do a more complete drain-and-fill) at any point are more likely to be successful than a flush. At no point is a flush a _better_ option than a drain-and-fill.

[@robertveronese4405]

If you do mostly city driving in traffic service it at 25-30k mostly freeway 50k (assuming you are not driving in traffic).

[@renedelafuente123]

You make a lot of good common sense questions with good answers. You got me sold on transmission flush. Thanks for the video

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

liked and subscribed, very sensible advise, (BMW owner here)

[@sammym.belfastchild]

My Mother when I was a kid had her transmission flushed with less than 60k on the car , and short there after the transmission started having issues , before that the transmission worked perfectly.. Later I went to college and became a Heavy duty tech , I personally would never flush a transmission , do a service , change the filter and oil every 60K and you should be nearly trouble free under normal driving conditions , 40/50K if under more extreme conditions like trailer hailing or lots of city only driving in hot environments ... JMO an experience .

[@tempestv8]

This advice is spot on! ☝👍

[@trainstractorscarsandtruck7362]

I wish my 2020 Toyota Corolla XSE was as easy to change Transmission fluid as it is to change oil. Good points and advice

[@cbpuzzle]

Just did it in my 2018 RAV4. Get vinyl tubing from HomeDepot, big funnel, 2 brass hose couplers, and 6 mini hose clamps for maybe $15. Jack and level the car, run the ATF cooler lines into a bucket, rig up a stable funnel setup (the hardest part) into the drivers wheel well WS fill plug. Uncap all your bottles, drain the pan, remove the fill plastic tube, replug the pan completely with the plastic tube also, refill the pan fully with WS ATF, start the engine, keep refilling the funnel until the fluid is bright red, turn off the car. Check the level at temp over 97F. Done

[@joet4806]

excellent video! you are very knowledgeable. Thank you

[@nmartin5551]

I picked up a 94 Dodge B250 with 144K on it. No history. So I researched the whole transmission service debate. I think the statement was made that if you change your transmission fluid and the transmission doesn’t work right afterwards, the transmission had a problem before you changed it. (This is discussing the no power flush/chemical wash fluid change type of service). So I changed the T fluid. Well, partial change. There were a lot of shavings stuck to the magnet in the pan. It’s 30 years old. But it seems to be as good after as it was before.

[@alixandria7346]

Thankyou so much ... I was actually going to get my transmission done by service i think i will do it myself instead

[@Grant849]

If you wanna do a drain and fill occasionally and your car has an ATF dipstick. 1. Go buy a cheap fluid transfer pump from harbor freight ($7) 2. Suck it out through the dipstick into an empty oil bottle (measure every drop and compensate for the fluid in the transfer hose not much) 3. Refill EXACTLY what you took out Easiest and cheapest way for a smooth transmission and maintenance. Also only use OEM fluid (definitely for honda) but never cheap out on one of the most expensive parts of your car

[@MrCoincoin21]

Why not draining and topping instead of this?

[@Grant849]

@@MrCoincoin21 I've done both, and I'll never go back to draining from the plug. This way saves time, it's easier, and it's more precise measuring liquid drained

[@percyfaith11]

@@Grant849 You don't have to measure. The dipstick has min and max marks.

[@Grant849]

@@percyfaith11 if it's factory fluid levels, you should measure what you take out and replace exactly that. But for sure tho, measure with the dipstick afterwards.

[@woohunter1]

I do a drain a fill every other year (about 30,000 miles) been driving for almost 35 years, never let me down. Also, make 100% sure you are using the proper fluid, don’t skimp on parts.

[@Alex-js5lg]

Thank you for this! It makes a lot of sense. As usual, it's not as black and white as people think.

[@keithscott9774]

I never realised a flush uses detergents. I've always hated the thought of diluting brand new fluid with old dirty fluid, so I use the transmission itself to pump the old fluid (via the cooler supply line) out into a bucket, while filling with new fluid, and keep going until clean new fluid is being discharged. Love the thought of having the transmission full of brand new fluid. However, I wouldn't call this a basic DIY method. The only thing about this method is you need to know if the cooler return line returns direct to sump, or goes through parts of the transmission first. I also drop the pan, give it a good clean, and change the filter before doing the flush.

[@thomasbradley512]

If you can do a non flush fluid change every other year, that will do much for that transmission then you can flush it out at around 90 to 100,000 mi and the transmission will be just fine. Also use a pint of lube guard that product will do a lot for keeping a transmission clean and functioning for well beyond a normal service life. I've used lube guard for many years in my Oldsmobile Alero with a 4T 60 automatic transmission and it's still going strong with 337,000 mi on it.

[@Brisco_County_Jr]

Wow. Last flush at 100k miles in a 6 speed Outlander was $100 at the dealer. Getting it done again at over 200k miles. Fluid is still red and looks clean. Idk. Could be the fact it's got a transmission cooler from the factory. Never has a chance to get too hot. Shame they no longer offer the V6 and 6 speed. Such a reliable drivetrain.

[@kman2220]

When a transfer machine (e.g. BG transfer machine) is used, it is not necessary to perform a "flush". It can be used to simply pump out the old fluid while pumping in new for a near 100% fluid change. I never do a flush, but I do have a local mechanic that has the BG machine and will do a complete fluid exchange. I think you should explain that option. For DIY'ers like me, you can also do a near 100% fluid exchange using the cooler lines to suck in clean fluid while pumping out dirty fluid out the other cooler line. First you need to drain and fill the pan so that the pump picks up clean fluid at the start of the process.

[@SportsMusicCars]

The best practice is to do a trans service every 30k miles. You will drain approx. 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid the first drain, then drive 500-1000 miles, do a second drain, then repeat a 3rd time. By then you will have about 85% newer fluid in, then drive it 30k, then repeat. Somewhere in there replace the filter by say 90k as well. Of course if you are buying a used vehicle with 60-90k on it to begin with, and have no service records, assume the fluid was NOT changed and do it asap before the fluid gets too dirty & causes issues past 100k. Once the trans starts having issues, doing the fluid drains/fills most likely won't fix those issues, sadly.

[@HypocriticYT]

Depends on your driving. I’m lucky and put over 90% of the mileage being highway so it’s not shifting much and not moving the vehicle from repeat stops 😮 City driving requires more frequent changes

[@igotstoknow2]

If my next car/truck has a 'lifetime fluid' transmission I will drain the fluid once a year. That way the fluid stays fresh and can provide better protection including keeping the seals flexible. Fluid/gear oil wears out and both are never 'lifetime'. I recently replaced the gear oil in my manual transmission after 10 years. It now shifts as good as new. The old gear oil was Amsoil.

[@peterrudy9207]

On KZbin it has been shown to remove hoses from transmission cooler . One end into new fluid that is suctioned up to flush out the old from the other , obviously vehicle running being normal pressure . To replace all fluid at one time , not the " drain and fill " , how many times . And not the flush machine that has too much pressure

[@nachoangeloni6062]

I do drain and fill without replacing the filter. I'm of the idea that if filter replacement would be needed, we would have a spin off filter on transmission rather thana weird screen inside the pan. I repeat the process every 2/3 years without tracking mileage (no more than 10K/15K per year). Regards, Nacho.

[@redlywaxer]

I would much rather just do a drain and refill a time or two or three, or when no drain plug, a cooler line fluid "exchange" vs dropping a pan that was not leaking just to change a 100 micron screen or 100 micron suction side filter that actually gets more efficient at filtering small particles the longer it is in there. Typical suction side trans filter in the pan will never be overwhelmed or overfilled with debris because a filter in the pan on the suction side of the pump is basically to keep the pump from ingesting pieces big enough to damage the pump. If you have enough debris to clog up a suction side filter, then that unit is beyond help and will need to come out soon anyway for repair. It is, however, helpful at times to look at what was caught by the filter to see if the unit is still healthy or is coming apart inside. Many units have no serviceable filter, like the Ford Edge I serviced today. Best to just get new, clean/appropriate ATF in there on a regular basis, say every 30,000 miles. Cheap insurance and best way to get maximum service out of a transmission. No guarantees, but push the odds in a good direction🙂

[@MissionEnablers]

Hey I know you. Your channel is awesome. I see your video training graphics which held my attention. Great job. This is Andy from the UofNkona. I am trying to help the YWAM base in Heredia, Costa Rica revitalize two high mileage vehicles with transmission issues. I am introducing the treatment Lube Guard Platinum. Ben, my engineer son flushed and treated his 2007 Pilot that was slipping with Lube guard and has given him 7 more years on his Pilot. I do need to know the best advise on flushing verses just changing and adding fluid. I'm suggesting do a: drain, change filter if it has one, refill transmission and drive 100 miles to get the torque converter fluid in the pan. Drain again , refill and add Lube Guard Platinum. Do you have a better suggestion for this vehicle? This is a 2001Mitsubishi Montero.

[@steven.h0629]

Very sensible video and comments below 👍😎✊

[@cbijames7]

Yup so true , I have a Subaru CVT and I do them every 45k just a drail and refill no flush just a d&refill and no problems so far. If I do this every 45k so the old and new mix good and keeps it moving good. Plus I use Amsoil CVT so it good fluid.

[@ownytony]

Use the transmission pump to flush it out. Use return line from radiator to catch pan. Easier with 2 people but let it run and fill it up with new fluid and cut engine when fluid looks clean

[@kevchev9952]

When the dirt and debris from worn clutches and mechanical wear are flushed from a high-mileage transmission, the clutch pack now compresses to its true thickness, which has worn too thin overall. The clutch pack now slips.

[@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7]

you can pull your transmission hoses off of the transmission cooler and aim then into a catch pan and use the transmission pump to pump out all of the old fluid using the transmission pump normal transmission pressures. No need to use a machine.

[@rustedhorsepower5132]

As a professional mechanic, i agree with most of you said, but...all the transmission flush machines i have used use the transmissions own pressure, and DO NOT introduce their own higher pressure. Good video tho!

[@bdcochran01]

You asked for comments. 1. Transmission repairs are quite expensive and not always successful. I had the experience of dealing with a poorly designed transmission in an American car purchased brand new. So, I vowed with my next car to be very diligent in servicing the next car. 2. The next car turned out to be a 2004 Toyota which runs in 2024 like the first day, brand new. 3. I took the recommended milage servicing in the manual and divided it by the average number of miles driven in my state. So, it turned out to be somewhere between 2 and 3 years. There wasn't any comments in the manual about hard use maintenance. However, it is/was a lubricant. 4. With the first couple of drains, the car ran better each time. I concluded that I didn't have to do flushes, just do partial drains more frequently and watch the color of the fluid. 5. Somewhere after 100,000 miles, I did not like the color of the drained fluid. The car was running fine and there was no need to panic and to do a flush. I let the status quo continue for about 7,000 miles and then did another drain. No color problem. 6. My driving habits have changed radically in the last ten years, just short hops. Reduced the mileage by about 1000 miles a month. Now the engine and the transmission might not get up to operating temperature and particles would be tossed through the systems on start ups, but I wouldn't be going very far. 7. So there it is. If I can get another 10 years of service by doing oil changes and transmission drains more frequently, I come out way ahead. And, if i have a factory oil filter and factory recommended (but not necessary factory labeled) transmission fluid, then I am not taking chances about what my trusted mechanic is doing.

[@therealkilleryo56ss]

We flushed our trucks trans before the dealership recommended 60,000 miles and 15k miles later trans starts slipping! They found metal shavings in pan recommend trans repleced! We do all the services recommended by dealership because they honor a powertrain warranty for the life of the vehicle! Now its being replaced by them!

[@HailAnts]

The key to understanding an ATF change is the *torque converter.* Unlike your engine and its oil, dropping and draining an AT oil pan does not drain the torque converter, which constantly contains several quarts of ATF. There is no way to drain them separately. Slowly replacing the fluid by way of the cooling lines with the engine running and the car in DRIVE is a proper way to do it, but you can't do this at home, you need specialized equipment, and nobody seems to offer this anymore. Besides, ATF simply does not wear out the way engine oil does. Engine oil is exposed to high temperature combustion, which requires it to be changed regularly because this breaks down the oil at a molecular level. ATF does not do this, it's just hydraulic oil like brake fluid or power steering fluid. And contrary to popular belief, brake and steering fluids do NOT need to be changed regularly. And neither does ATF (at least not nearly as often as engine oil). Don't get me started on CVTs, the biggest scam ever perpetrated by car manufacturers. They are sealed not because they are maintenance free, but because the car makers want them to wear out in less than 75K so you'll just buy a new car. Seriously. You are going to see them disappear and a whole bunch of class-action lawsuits filed..

[@stevekeyes9402]

I just had my 2021 CX 55 Mazda flush done at 42000 miles. I wanted all original dirt and stuff out completely. It cost 400 dollars. It took 16 quarts of fluid. It will be 5 years before I need to do it again.

[@robertbigler7743]

I bought a transmission pan with a built in drain plug. Makes it easier/cleaner to drain.

[@M40A5]

There’s a middle ground. Drain your pan, change your filter, re-install the pan, then locate the return line from the cooler. Detach the hose from the return tube, put on some clear hose and run it into something like an old oil bottle with markings showing volume. add transmission fluid until your level is at the same height it was before you drained anything. Turn the car on and watch the level in the bottle until you’ve drained a quart, shut off the car, replace the quart. Repeat the drain and fill until you see new transmission fluid in the hose. Put the transmission line hose back on the cooler tube, get your car level, verify that you have the right amount of transmission fluid.

[@chinocampos4088]

I replaced filter and fluid on my 2014 Corolla cvt. Running like a champ

[@williesteele4503]

ok, but did you do it yourself or did you take it to the Toyota Dealer and have it flushed? or did they do a drain and fill only? I ask because I have a 2016 Corolla with a CVT and I am at 55K and trying to decide if I should do a drain and refill or take it to Toyota for the flush. be specific!

[@dave6199]

I have a 2014 corola cvt pretty sure they have a mesh filter so pointless changing it and also risking the pan leaking in the future. It can do your head in a bit whats the best to do and decided drain and fill every so often like this guy suggests suits me. Just keep in mind if you heat the fluid up it expands and will affect your amount to put back in.

[@George_Lewis]

I perform a fluid change yearly on my 2012 Ford Escape. Four quarts drain out and I refill it. It has 118,000 miles and will probably last me as long as I want to keep it. BTW the owners manual says the filter can only be accessed by disassembling the transmission.

[@mortalballdc]

I took my Cadillac SRX 2016 to the dealer back in 2020 and it only had 43,000 miles and the dealer flushed my transmission and they made it a lot worse than how it was. It was slightly shifting rough so I wanted to have the fluid changed not flushed but they flushed it and it was way worse and shifting more rough, it took a year for it to get better. I changed the fluid just now at 73,000 miles and didn’t experience the rough shifting at all, so it is true that flushing it is really bad idea even with clean fluid.

[@BulletSpoung]

Just drain and refill every 30,000 miles and you're golden.

[@jimb4090]

Takes way longer to do a change if you dont have a lift. For a Toyota Camry you have to jack it up and jack stand it level on all four corners. Then you drain...hot preferably....and wait til it cools down because the refill is dependent upon fluid temperature to get the level correct. That means having a OBD reader to watch the trans temperature when refilling. Fortunately you an get a Bluetooth OBD interface for about $20 and use your phone/tablet to watch as the temp comes into range.

[@dannybryant6873]

On my 06 Odyssey minivan 3.3 quarts will come out. Just put the new oil down the tranny dip stick tube. The tube is small. A Dollar General turkey baster is a good funnel. Do with each engine oil change until discarded oil is clean.

[@joshuamoore24_7]

The T-Tech machine just uses the vehicles transmission pump to pump the old fluid out and the new fluid in. But it doesn't change the gasket, filter/filters. That when the pan drop with new gasket, filter/s, and fluid is better, but it doesn't get 100% of the fluid like the fluid exchanges machine does.

[@Jp75402]

I am an aircraft hydraulic mechanic. We never pushed contaminates back through the valve bodies, pumps, etc. we have to bypass each one of those components.

[@grunfieldf8694]

95 Bronco, pull my fishing boat, and 4wheeler/ trailer. Do a fluid/filter change every spring. 215k ,trans works like new.

[@mr.radioshow8544]

The car i own now is the car i learned hoe to drive in and my dad was the owner prior and he believed in "lifetime" transmission fluid. I always am fixing the maintenance he never did.

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

well put! I agree 100%! wise words!

[@networth9151]

Drain / Fill each year. Never put less than 200K on a car and no transmission problems.

[@nutandboltguy3720]

I did a fluid flush at the Toyota dealership for my Scion XB at about 140k miles. It shifts great. I’ve been told Toyota transmissions aren’t as crappy as GM or Ford transmissions that will fail if a flush is done after 100k miles.

[@logbeejr]

I agree for what you said. Thank you.

[@rvvanlife]

I noticed that when I change my oil, seems as if a good percentage of oil stays in the engine. Am on my 3rd 50 mile oil change/flush and its still coming out very dark

[@SpynCycle57]

My transmission has a drain plug, so it's easy to drain the transmission pan and replace that fluid every oil change, which I do myself.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

Must be a Toyota.

[@SpynCycle57]

@@Michael-yi4mc Chevrolet

[@cowtownokla]

It seems like lots of commenters think he said "don't do the fluid exchange". That's not what he said....

[@steveludwig4200]

Excellent explanation!