Tree Training: Avoiding Narrow Crotch Angles & Bark Inclusions, Orchard, Fruit Trees

Narrow crotch angles in trees cause bark inclusions leading to weak tree structures that fail under stress. They should be avoided when possible. I discuss why they are a problem and ways to avoid or remedy them.
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[@peerless-d6r600]

I am surprised you have so few subscribers. the info presented deserves much more attention

[@SkillCult]

It'll happen, it just takes time. Most views and subs come from youtube suggested videos and I won't be suggested a lot until I reach a certain level of activity on my videos. A lot of people seem surprised that I have such low views, so I'm just assuming that's a good thing and it will take off eventually. Thanks.

[@TheEmptynester]

Thanks for the lesson. I am grateful for your time.

[@Theorimlig]

Really solid information presented well, as always. I love your videos, you've quickly become one of my favourite channels on KZbin.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks!

[@GriffinBenchmark]

Great channel man, glad I found it. Very informative! 👍

[@SkillCult]

thanks, welcome!

[@rosehavenfarm2969]

Thanks again for the information. Going to go out to re-examine our new trees...if it ever stops raining!

[@stephenluna7932]

You're a great teacher

[@congamike1]

I had no idea. Thanks!

[@suttonelms1]

Interesting video, Steve - thank you.

[@SkillCult]

Did you get some fruit set on your seedling apples this year? I've got 5 or 6 new ones fruiting. I had more bloom, but there were almost no bees this year.

[@tree_fool]

When a branch has included bark, it is called a co-dominant stem. Bending will not solve the problem. It is best to cut the branch off, but you can get by with pruning about half of the top off of the least desirable of the two. This will allow the other to assume dominance and outgrow the stem you pruned.

[@3pipper]

Good info to lock away in the mind safe... Cheers ..... How long will / should it take too train the branches i.e. How long do you use the spreaders etc for before removing them. I have had issues hitting old files etc embedded deep in trees when falling them etc. so know leaving them there permanently can be an issue as well. Keep up the great content .. Love your rants... Bloody magic... Cheers

[@SkillCult]

If you catch them as new twigs it can be just a few weeks, but almost anything else sets in place within a year. I don't use anything metal except weights hanging off the branches and the clothespin springs. More rants to come :)

[@3pipper]

+SkillCult cheers appreciate some one who knows what they are talking about and more importantly have passion and able to communicate... 👍 keep the rants coming .. It is good to hear them voiced instead of just in my own head.... One word.... LEGEND.... Says it all ... Be like an ever ready battery... Keep on keeping on....😜

[@SkillCult]

thanks for the encouragement :)

[@3FeathersFarmstead]

You stay throwing out the goods...definitely going to keep an eye out for this stuff as my new trees mature.

[@HomesteadOC]

Ive got an apple growing with a tight crotch like the opening tree was. Should I cut this immediately in the heat of summer or wait til dormancy to prune? Also, thanks for the notching tip, Ive got a few stone fruits that need that treatment. Again, should this be done in summer heat or cooler months going into dormancy?

[@SkillCult]

Just wait. Notching is best done before bud break in late winter.

[@HomesteadOC]

SkillCult ok thanks, what about training scaffold branches that are less than 45 degrees from the leader? Im assuming that can be done now during summer with weights or stakes.