72 Inch Starship Enterprise NCC-1701 Model Build Series Pt 2

Some more progress on the 72" TOS Enterprise model build. Here I go over the design of the internal support armature. Also some more detail parts have arrived to show you.

[@robdcollector2808]

cant wait to see it finished...that one side looks hugeeee!

[@herbbluntman2287]

Way to go Boyd! Or should I say Mr. Scott? You're engineering the...you know what out of this build. When it's finished, it will be spectacular.

[@JohnPetrySPECIES8472]

Looking like you guys still have a few hurdles to overcome with the armature fitments and alignment. Very best of luck getting all that engineering work sorted out Mr Scott. The deflector is looking lovely! Can't wait for the next update. Thank you so much for keeping this build on the TrekWorks channel for us all to enjoy. Its mesmerising!

[@AvengerII]

Aztek Dummy is building the 66-inch fiberglass Enterprise kit now, Boyd. I think he had to buy the electronics separately but the armature definitely came with the kit. I think he did some additional reinforcement, though. Poor guy is going crazy building that kit, btw! He took time off to enjoy a model kit convention in Tennessee this week.

[@TrekWorks]

The kit Lou is building was the best available design at the time which was several years ago. This kit is modern tech and won't require near as much cleanup work. Also, even though this kit is larger than the 66" it's carbon fiber construction makes it much stronger and less than half the weight. That should be very beneficial for long term stability.

[@davidgudzinas1797]

What a wonderful project! Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.

[@Lumibear.]

Cheers Boyd, great stuff as ever, I love the removable deflector to access the boards idea and the 3D printed lighting blocks for the impulse engines sound really innovative, I’ll be interested to see those working.

[@TrekWorks]

Half the fun is the brainstorming to come up with solutions that can work.

[@iancameron1662]

@@TrekWorks what state you in would love to see some of you models on display

[@johngrubb1590]

That deflector dish is fantastic just spot on Boyd.

[@Custerd1]

The guitar jack idea is genius.

[@besttimes3248]

Exciting? Very cool. Looking forward to the build.

[@obcesar]

Good lord...seeing you hold the secondary hull...the size of it is really starting to dawn on me! Awesome work Boyd!

[@mattalki]

I'm enjoying the build quite a bit, Boyd. I'll be looking forward to each and every episode! That's a helluva kit!

[@timcc001]

Thank you for the update, Boyd. This Enterprise is in good hands.

[@KlingonCaptain]

It was the most aggressive starship design ever conceived; a battle shield attached to two war clubs, and all of it a chilling bone-white. Everything about the ship said "I want to kill you. I WILL kill you!" I cannot even begin to imagine the darkness of the minds that designed this thing.

[@wierdalien1]

Does sound like what a klingon would say

[@HobbyLinkInternational]

This will be epic. Thanks for the update Boyd!

[@TKommando]

I used the same idea with the power Jacks on my NX-01 build. Really makes transporting the model and base a lot easier.

[@5200210jim]

This is awesome. Cannot wait to see this complete.

[@TrayChester01]

And don't forget the nacelle pylons have a couple of lit windows too! :)

[@TrekWorks]

Actually they were never lighted on the original model and still are not after the restoration was done. On this model those will be dark as well as the same group of hull widows that are dark on the 11 footer.

[@TrayChester01]

@@TrekWorks indeed, I know. I just figured that you might light them since you were doing the impulse engines. No biggie. :)

[@t75044]

She is going to be magnificent when she's complete

[@perryking4180]

looking good

[@GregsModels]

looks great, looking forward to the other stages.

[@BobbyTB425]

great job

[@ShawnMcClureModeler]

Really cool.

[@clidefrog879]

Amazing Boyd. Looking forward to seeing it done.

[@wierdalien1]

Using a 6.5 mill Jack is clever clever idea

[@aaronvandoorn6347]

Yeah I agree I can't wait to see it finished either .it's gonna be amazing

[@Bluddphart]

Loving the info on building such a behemoth.

[@MrChief101]

I like and enjoy the progress so far. I do have to throw in my 2-cents about the internal armature: I think there should be a couple of rings for the inside of the engineering hull. They don't have to be entire rings-- the idea is that two of them, perhaps right near the front sensor ring and just at the rear of the neck -- will provide a spot that a pair of rods can be attached to. This would support the area between the neck and the pair of penetrations that are the pylon openings. I always saw that area as a source of flex. The idea is that the "partial rings' would only need to lay in between "10 and 2" of the clock (miss the windows, natch). Whether they touch the inside of the hull or not is up to Jerry. A couple of notches would hold the rods (or such a shape) that would connect the forward and aft partial rings. They would touch the inside-- even if with ApoxySculpt for "perfection" or some Evercoat as a gap filler. I am not a big fan of those 1/4" plugs and jacks. I fooled around with them for years and they always gave out on me at some point. The 1/8" (3mm) jacks and plugs too-- worse, as it takes only the slightest misalignment when inserting one thing into another to rip the guts out of the socket. Sure, they look tough, but this is a big, solid ship. Weight will probably not be "perfect" to and fro. I don't see why an ordinary set of power connectors, nice and loose, can't do better. The transition from engineering hull to neck to saucer is always a head-scratcher. I guess the Key solution is pretty good-- just not enough adjustment possible. That could be addressed fairly easily with a real laser cutter (who knows what was available back in that day). Ahem, while we've got this wonderful device to hand-- why not a one-piece hull-neck-one-axis-of-the-saucer piece? The whole shebang in one piece. i know-- a big piece of plastic. Maybe it would have to be tilted on the cutting table... I was never satisfied with that Key solution of a acrylic sandwich joint. A little too complicated, some parts too thin for my liking and one still didn't get enough adjustment points. Final, pursed-lip question: is metal sheet okay in that laser cutter? 'Cause I'd say 3/16" steel sheet would be better form somthing this big!!! Now here's the crazy suggestion: how 'bout a side mount (option... maybe) where one of the hull "grabber" pieces comes free (whatever those three things are around the sensor shroud). Inside would be a square receptacle for a piece of square steel stock. That square tube would welded to a larger square tube that stood upright on a steel base on wheels. Adjustability here may still need to be done-- that's just a little bit more engineering. The tube stock I've seen is pretty tough stuff. All metal gives a little and there might be a couple gusset points at top and bottom of the main tubing. This concept echoes the "3-point" mounting of motion control models-- but I think only two points would really be needed. It is a more spectacular display when you can see clear below the hull. (You'd cover that mounting point up with a simple plug or a sheet of magnet material with the registry pattern on it. Have that main column be adjustable in height for all display potential and never look back!!! if you kept the bottom mid-line mount available, you could always put this on your fireplace mantle... This also would allow for the utterly insane idea of a thoroughly custom installation somewhere, somehow, where the mount is down from a ceiling. Yes, I do like spending other people's money...

[@TrekWorks]

Will have to see how it works out. I'll add more bracing if it seems to need it. I do want to keep it as light as possible also.

[@triskellian]

Looking good Boyd ,as usual ! I'm interested in the little enhancements you'll be adding. Mr Atoz approves..😎

[@averagemodeler]

Looking great boyd. Can't wait for everything

[@markpullen326]

Great video as always Boyd. If Jerry does decide to produce those impulse engine inserts for the 1/350th OS Enterprise, I would definitely want a set! Happy modelling.

[@colinjohnston8519]

I'm not a huge startrek fan but that kit is epic!

[@vincemokry9643]

Boyd, the kit is 72 inches which is roughly 1/162. that is about N-scale and you can get N scale figures commercially for the bridge or hangar deck!

[@ijb4815]

Amazing work.

[@CannonRanger-1]

Sweet!

[@startrekking359]

There are a lot of types Christmas led lights all sizes and colors and can be separated some come with flashing units and you get a lot for the price, that's what I use it works great and can be customized.

[@robertmartinez1645]

I'm excited!!!👍👍👍

[@dh1031]

Hope this is still being worked on, amazing work!!

[@outsider238]

Whew! I don't know how you find the time to build all these kits!

[@justins.1283]

You should check out using addressable RGBW lighting controls like used in the newer computers. Those controllers are compact ,power efficient, and bright if need be. You even have room to mount a raspberry Pi micro computer inside to control lights effects and sound

[@vincemokry9643]

Also, Boyd, the nacelle struts have a metal rod so they won't bend...but the could twist! Watch out for that.

[@gearhead-442]

According to an article by G Kerr who did paint stuff on the Smithsonian model restoration, the deflector dish is painted copper color and the deflector dish housing is painted copperish gold color. Pics of the restoration are in the article near the bottom. a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr

[@danclark1348]

Wow, nice scale. Wish I had one that large. In my situation, not enough room to house it, plus ailments I have, model building skills not as good anymore.

[@kerryadams8922]

Great video update THANKS Will be following along THANKS KA

[@anthonylosego]

Maybe use 3 ring / 1 tip - 1/4" plugs. Could also do +/- and s/r (send and receive) then use a break out board to decode your digital communications to the pylons. Then you can always expand features.

[@L.Scott_Music]

Have you got to the power jacks yet? I wanted to point out that there is a company that makes a stronger 1/4" jack socket that doubles the amount of contacts and makes a stronger connection (so the jack doesn't pull out of the guitar as easy but also makes a better electrical connection.) EDIT: It's called "Pure Tone Full Contact Output jack" On Amazon for just under $7.

[@burtpanzer]

Sounds good, though I think the sheer strength of the hull may become compromised, the more the end plate behind the deflector dish is removed. The entire weight of the model pushing on the base will flatten the hull until it resembles the Enterprise D. =D

[@christheother9088]

Don't make the rookie mistake of mixing the matter and anti-matter cold.

[@bennygilardi3912]

Gotta have a plan to turn out right. What if the bussard motors were on a potentiometer instead of switches?

[@jjones552]

Something to look forward to this fall other than football. You mentioned having the saucer removable, will you use a magnet secured opening on top of the saucer to access the Allen screws?

[@TrekWorks]

Yes, the neck /spine cap detail part on the saucer top will be fastened with magnets so it can be an access port for the saucer mount.

[@kurk1701a]

Great progress, those 3d parts are wicked. The "lego type"(LOL) conections sound like a great idear if you are going to travel around showing the kit. But like the jacks for a headphone for a mobile , the more you use it the looser it gets , will this be a problem for the kit.

[@Lumibear.]

I thought of Lego too!

[@cscape1973]

This is a great series, but I’m gonna call you out for the “First Contact” musical opening......🤣🤣🤣

[@johnmogavero8156]

I want one ! For real ! Please !

[@vidar7106]

Any chance we can see the application of the clear UV resin? Thnx!

[@vincemokry9643]

Hi Boyd. I plan to go to the Nats in San Marcos since my mom and sister are up in Round Rock. It will be fun to meet u and see this big E! Btw it looks great so far. One comment. The area behind the deflector dish was found to be hull color on the back wall. You could pour paint back there?

[@TrekWorks]

To keep it clean looking I'm going to cut out some rings of thin sheet plastic, paint them the hull color and glue them on around the copper colored rings.

[@spacepirateshobbies9426]

One huge kit. Talking about blind scale. BTW what scale would this thing be? I wonder if a DJ speaker stand would be able to hold this up for shows. I'd definitely be interested in some of those impulse parts for the 1/350.

[@petergreen8674]

At this scale, would working shuttlebay doors be possible? A quick search suggests that, if you can pull it off, it would the first time anyone's done it.

[@rasmokey4]

You could light the nacelle struts!!!

[@hobbiesnorth4440]

Where can you get one of these kits?

[@burt66669999]

www.modelermagic.com/?p=93424

[@hobbiesnorth4440]

@@burt66669999 Thanks for the link!

[@vincemokry9643]

Hi Boyd. Question on how to do the windows. Could you just drill them out and then once filled and sanded just use rectangular masks to establish the windows with paint?

[@scottssillymodelworx370]

San Marcos you say🤔. What's the date, I live in New Braunfels and I'd like to see this beauty.

[@lukealmighty8828]

Wow!

[@StrangeAngel66]

What happened I can’t find the rest of the videos finishing this model

[@gunplanut]

Is your energizer going to be bypassed like a Christmas tree? If so I hope they don’t give you any bumps.

[@philconner3946]

Hey Boyd...two questions: Have you considered making the aft cross plate notched along with the armature....would that offer any additional strength and stability? Do you think she'll be displayed at Wonderfest next year? That would be awesome to see!

[@TrekWorks]

Hi Phil, it could be that an extra notch would make it stronger. We'll see. I'm told that 1/4" thick acrylic bonded with the proper adhesive is incredibly strong and won't break down over time. As it stands now, it'll be overly sturdy which is a good thing. As for the debut display the plan is for the IPMS Nats in July 2020. Might be a sneak peek at the February 2020 IPMS show in San Antonio. It could make a Wonderfest appearance after that though :)

[@dsh5564]

I don’t think you should light the impulse engines. Or maybe set it up where you can have them off with the rest of the lights on

[@victorallen4809]

Hey Boyd. Who makes this kit and how much is it. I would like too buy one. Thanks.

[@Zeaiclies]

Where can one buy the TOS 72" kit or is it even available? Would love to have one.

[@Wildstar40]

NCC-1701 ... No bloody A, B, C or D

[@TrekWorks]

Absolutely!

[@llmyth007]

one of my fav scenes from TGN.

[@MegaScotsman1]

What scale would that ship be ? Wow

[@herbbluntman2287]

By my info, this model is 6 feet long from bow of the saucer to tip of the warp nacelles and the Franz Joseph blueprints for the Constitution class Enterprise say it's 947 feet long so 947 divided by 6 equals 1: 157.8 scale.

[@AvengerII]

@Shawn Burke Boyd's six ft model is OVER half the scale of the 11-ft model. The 11-ft model hanging in the Smithsonian is actually 134 inches long, or 11ft 2 inches long (or one other source says 11ft, 3.5 in; it's just over 11 ft long either way). The fiberglass Enterprise model Aztec Dummy is building is the HALF-STUDIO scale model at 66 inches (5 ft, 6 inches), or 6 inches shorter than the model kit Boyd is building here. The 3-ft prototype/original shooting miniature was 33 inches long. The 11-ft model that survives and is on public display in the NASM is 4 times the scale of that one but it's not an exact scale duplicate of the 3-ft model (differences aside from the fact the 3-ft model never had lighting or warp nacelle effects). There are differences in the shape of the primary lower on the lower half of the 3ft model and an ugly stubby area on the 3ft model where it was secured onto a shooting tripod or whatever kind of stand was used for it. They still have the stand for the 11-ft model in the NASM and it still bears the blue paint or chalk used to disguise it for shooting against the blue screen. One thing they NEVER put back on display with the 11-ft model is the control panel they used to activate/control the lighting and warp nacelle effects. It's literally a work bench! That control panel was on display in 1972 or 1973 when they had the 11-ft model on display at a California college over a weekend. All the lights and warp nacelle effects still worked even then after 3-4 years in storage. The model was intact except for the missing main deflector dish. This was prior to the shipping to the NASM. By then, the 11-ft model's frosted nacelle caps had been smashed and were later replaced (incorrectly) with non-spinning red nacelle caps.

[@aaronvandoorn8397]

Did I miss part 3?

[@richardgrahame6023]

Hi Boyd, Lou has noise from his Motors in the nacelles due i think to the sheer size of them. Have you worked out how to keep the Motor noise down in your ships nacelles?

[@TrekWorks]

Yes I think so. The motors we'll use are much smaller. Between that and some sound deadening with foam rubber in the nacelles should do the job.

[@nickd920]

San Antonio? I live NW side by 1604.

[@karlburgess3518]

Hi Boyd can i ask ...? Im doning my very first LED Star Trek model the leds that i have bought seem to keep blowing when im testing them on the breadboard . Is there something im not doing right .. Also would it be better to buy the proper lighting boards that go to the model and if so where can i buy them from ? thanks im in England .... Superb workmanship what you do with these models ...thank you ....

[@TrekWorks]

You need to use the appropriate resistors for the LED's. The correct value of the resistors depends on the power level you use as well as the specs on the LED's themselves. I build 99% of my model lighting to operate at 9 volts dc. At that rate, a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor is proper for almost any type of LED you would need. Also most pre wired LED strip and pre wired SMD's wilth resistors will work properly at 9 volts.

[@karlburgess3518]

@@TrekWorks Hi thank you so much for this Boyd .. its very very helpful once i get back onto my model and its completed ... Its the Starship Voyager by the way .. i ll put up some pictures to see what you think ... My major project after will be the Lost in Space Jupiter 2 , also with leds ... thank you for getting back to me its very much appreciated ...

[@karlburgess3518]

The Jupiter 2 model is the 18" version ...thanks again ....look forward to more great posts of this ENTERPRISE .... and wow its huge id love to get this model ....

[@tmseh]

Would you add sound effects?

[@Lumibear.]

Good question!

[@TrekWorks]

For sure! I have plans for some theme music , dialog, sound & lightup phaser & photon torpedo effects.

[@Lumibear.]

TrekWorks good answer! ;)

[@tmseh]

@@TrekWorks Thanks guys. I can't wait to see how you finish this monster! The sound effects will no doubt be as big as this build.

[@seka1986]

👍👍👍

[@charleshilton7324]

Seriously how can I get my hands on this I have been clicking around looking but can't find it

[@TrekWorks]

It's an in house project and not available to the public.

[@ebt12]

Whatever became of this project?

[@AvengerII]

What about options for people to build this as the Pilot versions of the Enterprise? I know most people would want the production/or close to production (with maybe the lit Impulse Deck and internal warp nacelle lighting) but there might be people who prefer something closer to the "launch-version" Enterprise (even though that was NEVER show onscreen). I'm not counting the 2009/later version or STD ship. Let's just pretend those are the BAD fanfiction they truly are...

[@josepha.correiaiii8855]

Is this project still active?

[@lomax6996]

Where did you purchase this??

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

Have you been watching The Aztec Dummy's 66 inch build any, Mr. Boyd?

[@TrekWorks]

Oh yes, and learning a lot about the trials of working on a very large model. He's having to do a lot of cleanup work that thankfully isn't needed on the kit I have. He's doing a great job on it.

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

@@TrekWorks I'm still working on my shop. Setting up my lathe and such. I have 2 computers. I need to get the camera a tripod. I am doing to much stuff with the 3D modeling, and lastly I had to do some major work to my 1972 Plymouth on my days off, but I'm getting close to building some physical models.

[@kdryan21]

Begging for an update... :)

[@p.j.c.2.0]

That big Enterprise got me working to save my old 1/600 scale TOS Enterprise model i've been posting my progress on The Model Shop's Facebook Page i'm also redoing the Display Base i think you might like how it turns out Boyd. Feel free to check out my GODZILLA KING OF THE MONSTERS build i just finished it and i'm working on posting it. Oh are you still going to do the HALLOWEEN Group Build this year Boyd ?

[@silvereagle2061]

This is the Smithsonian film used size?

[@stephenhester9804]

The Smithsonian one is the TOS TV one, that beast is 132" !

[@outerrealm]

72 inch. Is there a reason you can't say 6 feet? Does it sound more dramatic in inches? Really

[@knowles217]

awhile wait for brig get back are you doing badass galactica boyd lol peoples today as about that of 1/2500 kit

[@gearhead762]

That build got cancelled...parts of the model were made wrong and the guy who made the kit is dead so no replacement parts. .

Hello my friend. Sorry for my bad english, i am using a google translator. I am interested in buying this 72 inch scale model. Will you sell this model or the 72 'kit to assemble? Can you tell your contact e-mail?

[@Sarah_Swede]

So much garbage at the beginning that I didn't watch this, thumbs down. Stop wasting peoples time.