Triumph TR6 Differential rebuild - Part 2 - Pinion Preload and Position

[@cheftush]

First? Very Interesting Video. This along with Ed’s guide will help a lot of TR Owners.

[@johngidman4574]

👍

[@elhollin]

Another enjoyable video, Elin. And thanks for the shout-out. Ed

[@RustyBeauties]

No, thank you for all the precious information you put together on your website!

[@charlesbaker4508]

Interesting, thanks Elin! Ed’s websites are an invaluable resource like your videos. Our community is so much better off due to the efforts of you guys…🙏

[@JohnCarey1963Jag]

You always make these projects seem simple and straight forward! I'd spend two weeks figuring this stuff out. Great work so far....

[@ridewithtriumph3596]

Thanks it's always easier to understand how to do when it's explained step by step like you do. And you show that's possible to refurbish a differential with a minimal tools

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Elin, thanks again for making a critical process look simple by breaking down the steps. Oh, to have a small machine lathe in the shop! lol

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Elin, Well done you make it look so easy!! Look forward to the next stage of the rebuild. Good luck from Spain!!

[@BruceBoschek]

Very interesting to watch, very tedious to do. Thanks for showing us how it is done and why.

[@kjeldlarsen7457]

thx Elin

[@thierryl0]

hi , Elyn Hi I have replaced all the bearings on my rear axle with original triumph bearings except for the preload one, and I have an abnormal end play at the output as on your TR6 video, the new bearing is Moss.....i have got a TR4 rear axle (rigid deck) i didn't check the thinkness before mounting so do you think my problem schould be the same? thanks for all your videos !!

[@timmarsh6754]

Hey Elin, Great video. Another complicated procedure demystified! I’m intrigued that you didn’t preload the bearings with grease. Is that a ‘behind the scenes’ move, or do they not need it due to oil in the diff? It seems that outside one would run pretty lean of oil due to it’s placement.

[@RustyBeauties]

For accurate measurements they recommend taking them with dry bearings. The front bearing is indeed less lubricated than all the rest and that is why it is often going first.

[@davidwarr8600]

Did I miss seeing you put a pinion seal?

[@RustyBeauties]

The flange still needs to come out to install the cross plate. I put the seal at the end

[@davidwarr8600]

@@RustyBeauties yes, I am sorry I made the comment before I watched the full video.

[@JB_WI_Triumph]

I think you are getting a wrong reading the way you have setup that ruler. Isn't your "Lever" arm going through, roughly, the center of the two bolts on the flange when it really should go through the center of the pinion shaft? Maybe it isn't enough of a difference to matter, but I'd put another hole in the ruler so you use two bolts that are diametrically opposite.

[@Tom111060]

He lined up the edge of the ruler crossing the center of the shaft and pulled on the same edge - so everything was correct I think ...

[@JB_WI_Triumph]

@@Tom111060 What if the ruler was wider though, would that change things then? I think what matters is where the forces is applied to the flange, and that is at the two bolt holes no matter how wide the ruler is. I actually went though this with some tired physics skills. I found that Actual Torque is the Applied Torque (as he measured) times the cosine of the angle between the bolts he used on the flange and a radial to the point where the scale was. This makes sense because if he was applying the force on a ruler 10 miles long, that would make the line through the bolts almost parallel to the radial line, and the cos would be 1. I will try to make a sketch of this and send to him, maybe he will feature it in an upcoming video. Surely it would get him 50K more viewers instantly.

[@RustyBeauties]

@@JB_WI_Triumph That will be interesting to figure out. I was pretty sure that it didn't matter where the ruler was attached to the flange as long as the force was applied at 4" away from the center and to ensure that I lined up one edge of the ruler with the center, but after reading your comment I started thinking and I am not so sure anymore :) So if I was to just clamp the other edge of the ruler, the one that goes through the center that was going to be correct? the ruler is still in the same position..... just fastened differently... It will be interesting to find out.

[@JB_WI_Triumph]

@@RustyBeauties 30 years ago I could have figured this out in a minute, but struggling today. After going through it, I think you are right now. It comes down to the angle of your scale to the ruler. If it is 90 degrees to the line through the center of the pinion bolt, then you are good. I was thinking you had it at 90 degrees to the line through the bolt holes. I will send a scan of my solution to you where I resolve your applied torque into an actual torque and a force along the radius. Also, my initial thought that if you made the ruler wider, it shouldn't matter, is wrong assuming you apply force at right angle to ruler edge. I seriously over thought this and wasted a couple hours getting back to your correct solution....

[@Tom111060]

@@JB_WI_Triumph ... As long as the ruler is fixed to the rotating part and the force is applied in line to the center, the rotating resistance/force should always be centered ...

[@2dumb2knoworcare]

I believe your pinion preload is incorrect. Your trying to turn on a pivot 1 3/4” past the pinion center. Buy an inch pound torque wrench and do it properly. You should be using a dial unit but a beam will suffice @ $35 vs $350. You could probably get one at a NAPA auto parts up there. You don’t want a clicker because it is very inaccurate using it in that situation. Get the best you can afford but not a clicker for setting turning preloads. I cringed when you started to lathe the pinion sleeve. I’m going “ you got adjustment shims, remove some!!”

[@RustyBeauties]

There is another comment above saying that the ruler was fastened off center with the two bolts and that affects the measurements. I could kind of agree with that. But I disagree wit you that the pivoting point is 1 3/4" past the center. There are two points (the two bolts) where opposing each other forces are applied and the center point between them is the pivoting point. It might be a little off from the flange center, but it is not 1 3\4" past it. Regarding the machining vs. removing shims, this is where I am super thankful to Ed for his website, because he saved me time. I know from his article that even after he removed all the shims he still had endplay. So I skipped that and went straight ahead to shortening the sleeve. I almost messed up by removing too much, but I caught myself on time and it turned out I removed just enough material to be within the range of the shims.

[@markymark8564]

Ah you must have heard shouting, don't remove 62 though.