Triumph TR6 Taper Pin Clutch Repair

A very common problem with TR6s (and TR250s) is that the clutch pedal doesn't get enough travel. The problem is sometimes with the hydraulics, though usually you'll be able to find a leak if that's the case. Well intentioned owners have relocated the slave cylinder and lengthened the pushrod, but this is a bandaid and will not fix the actual problem (if it works at all). The repair unfortunately means pulling the gearbox, but the actual part replacement is arguably as easy as changing the oil, so there's no need for large repair bills on this one. I hope this helps! Let us know in the comments below.

[@andrewgillespie9485]

One thing you could do to ensure that the new 1/4" bolt you install doesn't move is to drill a very small hole through the head of the bolt, and then safety wire it to the original bolt ensuring that neither bolt can unthread. It's a common aviation practice.

[@midwestmotoring]

Great point, and good idea! Having the bolt come undone would win some awards for stupidity....

[@pieterhaeck8888]

This was exactly what I needed to find the problem on my TR6. I've took the transmission out this weekend and expected a pressure plate that was bad but it looked quite new! This little bolt is also broken in my gearbox! Thanks a lot!

[@midwestmotoring]

Happy to help. It's a very common issue!

[@frankmgallo]

Great job learn something new today. Thanks

[@midwestmotoring]

Glad to be helpful!

[@marcsmith5959]

Great tutorial 👌 thanks very much.

[@midwestmotoring]

Thank you!

[@albyers5554]

Great video !

[@midwestmotoring]

Thank you!

[@soup1448]

Good tutorial

[@midwestmotoring]

Thank you!

[@conradsaam8932]

This is awesome.... thanks for the step by step. I owe you a beer.

[@midwestmotoring]

Careful, I'll take you up on that if you're in the area.

[@cheftush]

Good job.

[@midwestmotoring]

Thanks! I like keeping these on the road

[@sammoj9836]

Thank you for the video. VERY helpful 👍👍. I am replacing my clutch mechanism and using this video as my guidance. I am also replacing the rear main seal and I was hope to get some direction and guidance. It doesn’t seem like that it’s on there perfectly center. Finally, is there any way to stop oil from leaking out from the bottom of the shifter area that is open directly under the gear shift? Thank you

[@midwestmotoring]

If the rear main isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. I think there may be a way to center the rear housing when it goes on and believe someone may have even made a tool for that. For the shifter, I don't have a TR6 gearbox in front of me, but I believe there are some seals at the ends of the rails in the remote control. Those seals are basically o-rings and they get brittle and fail. You should be able to replace them without pulling the gearbox since the top cover comes off... but again, it's been a little while since I've had one in front of me.

[@frasercocks]

I'm just curious if the broken pin was difficult to get out?

[@midwestmotoring]

Not really. Remember that it's tapered, so it only goes out one way, but a small punch and a hammer does the trick. Worst case scenario, you should consider a new cross shaft anyway since they're under $20. If you can't get the old pin out, there's good odds the shaft itself is worn somewhere anyway.

[@midwestmotoring]

I should add that the hole goes all the way through--so the pin is easy to get out.

[@paulfanning7059]

Is there a torque setting for the factory pin?

[@midwestmotoring]

I just looked at my factory manual, and I don't see a torque spec for this. I'd have thought the same--there are even torque specs for the speedometer drive gear retaining bolt.... Please let me know if you find one.