Troubleshooting and Repairing the F11 Error Code in a Whirlpool Duet Washer

[@bradnelson3053]

We bought this washer used at a discount knowing that there was an F11 periodic problem. Over the course of 2 years it became almost impossible to complete a load. Because the dryer was stacked on top of the washer in a smalle laundry room I hesitated to take action. Today I finally followed your instructions and the washer is acting flawlessly. Thank you and God-bless KZbin

[@paulb4496]

God bless you for making this video. I wa an Appliance repairman from 1973-1999 and had my own company almost 12 years. My 2006 Kenmore HE4t has been acting up for too long. I appreciate your expertise and willingness to share! Bless you!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Glad it helped!

[@leighstephens9243]

Thank you for this video. A girlfriend, who does not live close to me, had had her machine moved up onto a stand and a week later the machine got this error code. I found your video and based on what you showed, I told her that it sounded like a harness was loosened when the machine was moved and had worked totally loose in the next week's use. Now my girlfriend is NOT mechanically inclined, but after watching your video, she was able to track down the loose harness and fix her own machine! Thank you again!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Leigh Stephens Thanks for watching, Leigh!

[@dianereinhold7998]

I have a Kenmore Elite HE4t that was showing the F11 code. I added the solder to the wire harness pads but then found out it was only a loose connection on the MCU. This made sense because it happened as my washing machine was unbalanced and spinning with a banging sound when the error code occurred. I can't thank you enough for your help and ease of explanation. You are truly amazing!

[@hoyamd2b]

I have been battling F11 and dL errors for over a year, but nothing a few smacks couldn't fix. My main problem was that the machines were stacked, preventing access to the control board. We finally decided that if someone was going to come fix it, they'd have to unstack them anyway. So we unstacked and used your video to fix it ourselves! Thanks so much!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Great job and thanks for watching!

[@1975GILL]

Whomever gave you a thumbs down must want you to go to their house and do it for free, as far as I'm concerned you did a lot of us a great service thank you very much

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Domo, Gill!

[@lindalarsen7298]

Same as Robert. How cool is this? I was pissed having such a major "appearing" problem on a nice machine. BUT... your guidance put me on the right track. I basically re-seated the plugs (pushed them in, worked them a little bit back & forth) and NOW.... WOW.... I'm washing a load of dirty laundry. Dang. Thank you guy... Great info. Wonderful. Good time in my life for good solutions from you. Good man.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

The washer in this video was consistently throwing the F11 code every time. I had previously tightened the tines on the molex connector and it worked for 3 cycles, then F11 again. I knew it had to be a connection problem because the machine ran the diagnostic cycle just fine. Then I had the idea about building up the connection pads on the CCU at the MCU wire harness port. That did the trick. Thanks for watching!

[@razoRjaw75]

dude that was an amazing example of what a great KZbin video should be like. If I'm ever in the New Hampshire area I will definitely buy you a beer!

[@barnacle1brad]

I was hesitant to try to lay down that thin line of solder to fix f11 error, but then started to get fdl consistently. Spent $18 on a butane mini torch kit complete with solder and had the fix done in minutes. Reinstalled the board and viola! Thanks for the video. Awsome!!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Good job, Brad. But I would caution against using open flame soldering techniques on circuit boards. The proper tool is an electric pencil-type soldering iron and rosin core solder. Search around KZbin for videos on soldering techniques on electronic circuit boards.

[@lisarinehart8533]

Unbelievable! After several years of intermittent F 11 codes, I finally took the plunge - purchased a $20 soldering gun, dismantled the CCU, did your suggested fix, and incredibly, just finished a load of laundry with no interruption. This is after being told the washer couldn't be fixed. Oh, and perhaps I was interested in buying a new matched set courtesy of the repairman for about 2K? Yikes! If and when I really do have to replace a part, it will be from you. THANK YOU!

[@haulinashla]

Thank you so much. I had a Door Lock code and I followed a couple of your videos and fixed the issue simply by cleaning the posts with a small nail file and tightening the contacts. Saved me a bundle and I didn't have to wait around the house during a four hour service window.

[@FrederickWalser]

I did the solder thing on the upper board and it fixed the problem. A year and half later, it started again, so I tightened the prongs on the lower plug (on the motor control board at the bottom) as shown in the video and its working again. Thanks!

[@GeococcyxVelox]

Wow! Thank you so much for your video. The pin and fresh solder advice did the trick. Our washer is 5 cycles post-repair and no error code. Sweet!

[@darrenm.4058]

F11'd on the last step in the diagnostic. I put solder on the connections as directed and also added dielectric gel on each connection point too and bottom. Put it all back together and it passed all the diagnostic tests and ran multiple loads with no F11. Thanks for the video, great info!

[@tonycarlson7159]

thank you for the video. I was receiving F11 all the time and dL (door lock) occasionally. Adjusting the Tines (contacts) at both locations worked for me. As the tines are thin you have to be gentle as I ended up bending a couple and had to fix by bending them back. It has been 10 months error free.

[@PriyaDoobay]

Hi! We are a family from Canada and your video was very helpful. It saved us from buying a brand new washing machine. Thanks again!

[@mw-dc1by]

I did the fix, although my solder skills aren't nearly as good as yours. It passed diagnostics and I'm running a big load of towels. We'll see how it goes! Thanks for posting this video!

[@xelawash]

The tips you provided in this video saved me thousands, as my wife was about to purchase a new washer/dryer set😨 Thank you for posting this video to your channel🙏💪

[@papavinson]

I did not solder anything. I didn't see the eraser suggestion until just now. I did squeeze the pins in and SUCCESS! Thank you so much. Great Video.

[@michaelhelander7976]

Just fixed my own machine with your video. Repair costs here in Sweden are sky high...so you really made my day! Thanks so much!!!

[@prodigital]

The tip on checking the diagnostic test at 2:13 is invaluable! Thanks for enabling me and saving me a ton of money. Because of your video, this repair only took me 15 minutes to complete. I'll definitely buy parts from you when I need them. Thanks!

[@SeanBrennan007]

For those that have done this and it's still failing, it could be the relay. They are two white boxes that sit right next to each other on the same circuit board. On mine, I pulled the caps off and could clearly see the one was worn and had black carbon on the contacts from the connection not being enough to hold it during the shaking spin cycles. I took a small piece of fine sand paper and gently cleaned the contacts (took all of 5 minutes to do this). You'll see the contacts looking shiny again. Once put back together it works much better and you can actually hear a 'firmer' door lock when the connection is made vs. it being weak due to a lower voltage trying to make the required connection. Another option that I'm going to try is to actually solder the 3 wire connector to the circuit board. This should make for a very solid connection that won't vibrate while shaking over the years. If you are comfortable with soldering and working with circuit boards, don't let this video and fix deter you from trying it. It's actually not too bad to do this fix and will save you a ton of money.

[@grgfourtinas]

Thank you so much!!!! The tec who came told me to replace the mcu … 300 euros all i did was what you said… i messed with the wire harness on the mcu! Didnt cost nothing! You saved me tons!! God bless you!! Cheers from Greece❤

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Yassou!

[@chargerman100]

Thank you so much for this video. You explained everything so well and in great detail. My machine was faulting over and over. After doing the test check and learning the CCU was good saving me time and money, I took the cheap route by just pulling the MCU 3 prong plug in and out and the machine now runs great with no faults. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Thanks, Robert, glad to know that worked for you!

[@g.peanut8879]

It wasn't QUITE as easy as you made it look, but CLOSE! The first attempt resulted in an immediate F11 code. Upon checking, I discovered I had bent one of the tines too much and crushed it when I had pushed the connection back in. Luckily, I was able to straighten the bent tine and... VOILA! Fixed! Three loads so far with no F11 codes. I did not do the solder fix because as one other commenter put it, it's not a job for the ham-fisted. I did scratch loose the scaly material and wiped it with a q-tip. Thank you, sir.

[@odiexx]

I thought the same about the solder job, but it was surprisingly easy.

[@andyspromise1]

Thank you sooooo much, I know this was posted years ago but I still have this machine and this actually fixed my issue a freaking loose connection!!!!! For sure a actual tech or someone I think would have told me to order a new board, but not sure I can even get one anymore due to the age of this machine now. So thanks a ton as this machine has worked perfectly for us for years!

[@MrMultitool]

I was wondering if you moved the cable to prove that there was a bad connection? I doubt the average tech would attempt to make this repair and would just replace the board.The folks in your area are very lucky to have such a tech as you.

[@sybrinacolosanta8927]

Thanks for your video! I've been getting F11's for a year and your video helped more than any other video online!!!!!

[@mikestankostanko6121]

Soldering CCU contacts didn't work...its likely a board or interface wiring issue like an internal break due to maybe vibration and time....can't waste any more time on this...Duets are gone...new Speed Queens here and we couldn't be happier. FYI, for those trying soldering....practice, this is not for the ham fisted, this is closer to micro surgery and for those with fine hand and eye skills...closer to jeweler work....careful to not put too much on and let solder bridge or jump across to another adjacent terminal strip....some are very close by!!!! Thanks again Samarai Man as I believe many have fixed theirs due to your help!

[@odiexx]

Fwiw I'd never soldered before and it was actually really easy.

[@leonbuck2t2]

Please ignore the thumbs down votes. Good Lord. This has helped us countless times, and we still haven't had to use the solder yet. Thank you for such detail and clarity!!

[@thomaslgill]

Thanks for posting this - I have a Kenmore Elite HE3T with this issue and your fix seems to have worked - In my case, the soldering was not neccessary

[@mikestanko8407]

F11 back again :( Spreading the plug tines and cleaning the contacts worked for 20 straight loads right afterward...which was amazing. Then f11 started to reoccur once again and getting progressively more frequent. Gonna try the contact solder build up on the CCU contacts next.....and if that doesn't work gonna hold a Whirlpool Duet Washer smash it to pieces event....all other Duet owners are welcome to attend and get 1 swing of a sledge hammer for every f11 they have seen. Mo more Whirlpool in our future after nearly 30 years of brand loyalty.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Since last Fall, I've been shooting all my videos with my iPhone and I also edit and produce them with iMovie right on my iPhone. Before that, I used a Flip camera and did the editing and production on my desktop with the Flip software. I discovered that the both the camera on the iPhone and the iMovie software were superior to both the Flip counterparts. In this particular video, my son was with me on this job and he did the camera work on the segments where you see both my hands.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

I try to keep the videos short and on-point. In this age of short attention span theatre, people lose interest quickly. Soldering is easy. I use a pencil-type soldering iron with a pointed tip, $10 at Radio Shack. Let it get good n' hot then touch it to the pad. Maybe I'll do another video just showing the basics of soldering.

[@inutopia67]

Thank you for the video! This fixed the F11 error code I was getting. Instead of soldering the contacts on the board, I just cleaned them and bent the tines on the plug to make a better contact. Been working great for over a week now.

[@gaWalt]

Thank you very much, for your video, on the "F11" error code. Our washer kept stopping and would display the "F11" error code and so I followed your suggestions and it's working great now! Thanks for saving me a ton of money by not having to call for service!

[@peterlonstrup5517]

just did exactly as in the video. Built up board w/solder and used a straightened paper clip between connectors to separate out the solder. Plugged it in and ran a small load w/out issue. Hopefully this is the fix. Great video.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Good job!

[@nataleestewart4063]

I just want to say thank you so much for the forums, videos and the general awesomeness that you provide!

[@Chris_Goulet]

Did two F11 error Duet repairs: GHW9150: CCU board repaired, resoldered crack at relay K6 Kenmore branded Duet: open in MCU brd, (one of the 3 communications terminals is open, infinite resistance to the other 2 terminals) unable to repair MCU 8182706, replaced to W10756692

[@jimothy4j]

Thanks. I've been putting up with the F11 error off an on for years, but this week, it became a real problem and it took hours just to do one load. I finally had to stop procrastinating and do something about it. Following your instructions, I was able to fix it easily. I've since done three loads of laundry with no problems. So far, so good. It was so easy, I have no excuse for putting up with the problem for as long as I did. I didn't do the solder, yet. I just bent the tines to make better contact, as your video shows. If the problem returns, I'll try adding solder. Thanks again. You saved me hundreds of dollars!

[@mikezamber]

I thank you for your help. My unit is an Kenmore Elite HE 3T. The CCU contacts on the board showed serious signs of wear. Likewise, the pins were a bit out of spec as a result of many years of shaking.... So, if you want to fix this issue do the following: Indeed, close the pins on the ribbon cable connetors connecting the CCU to the MCU (watch some vids and it will make sense) then remove the board from the CCU enclosure. Solder a bead down those three terminals on both sides of the board. Then LOOK AT ALL THE SOLDER TERMINATIONS ON ALL THE COMPONENTS. Find the black square rectangle looking components on the board (12V DC relays) CHECK THESE!!!! When this machine shakes like heck during its spin cycle these connections fail. Anyhow, if you see any fractures in the solder connections on these, or any component for that matter you MUST resolder that connection. Otherwise, the boad will kick an error code saying, I cant talk to my Motor Control Unit. In fact, it cant. So the moral of the story is as follows, yes this is a break in the serial connectiviety from the Motor Control Unit and The CCU. However it has multiple points of failure... its not limited by any means to the ribbon cable connector. I THAK THIS MAN FOR POSTING HIS VIDEO. A+++

[@garoululatrouve975]

I just clean the contacts and torque the connector and restart the washer....but F11 come back....So I made soldering and now all is OK!! Wow thank you , your video is so well done and so practice... I save many $$$$

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Great job!

[@matpolo88]

Thank you Sir it worked like a charm :) your a good man for taking your time to show us how to fix our washer

[@walkeywalkey4725]

Walkey Thanks for the Video, I have been looking for about a year now, on how to fix this problem on our machine, I had to find info else where on how the covers come off. I used some contact cleaner instead of adding solder. on all the connector that have the edge board connections. I also made a copy of the Tech Manual to put in my file. I had replaced the door switch a year ago and it work for a while then the F11 and DL error came back. I have done a full load in the machine, and it completed with no problems. Thanks again for the info.

[@chrisp8060]

Bless you. I've been struggling with this issue for 2weeks. Thank you so much

[@yeahwright9673]

Thank you so very much for this awesome and thorough video. All I did was pull out the connection and reconnect it and it worked again. If it fails again, I'll add some solder. Thanks again, It's much appreciated.

[@AIRMANBEAR]

THANKS SO MUCH .. WASHERS IN THE BASEMENT OFTEN LIVE IN A HUMID ATMOSPHER AND CAN CORRODE MORE THAN THOSE WHO LIVE ON THE FIRST FLOOR ..

[@MrMultitool]

you did a great job repairing the board! Would have enjoyed seeing the soldering process but I know time is limited. As always another appliance tail whoopin!

[@IsmaelHernandez-ep7cp]

Took me some time to get the soldering right, but once i got it, and adjusted the clip, it worked!

[@MyFuriousGeorge]

Excellent video. For me, Spreading the tines solved the F11.

[@KFRoss1]

@samurairepairman Good video. So if my diagnostics fair at the 3rd step, it's likely one of the boards? Is there a way to diagnose which board is bad?

[@xyzzydude]

Thank you for this great video. I was finally able to fix my F11 code thanks to this. All I had to do was to tighten the tines on the connector as you showed in the video. I guess all those years of vibration loosen them.

[@MenesesInc]

Wow! Can I also add that the tightening of the serial com connectors, at both sides (CCU & MCU), might also fix the dreaded F06 F6 Drive Motor Tachometer Error. I had done all the other tests for ohms & continuity at the Motor/Tachometer sensor, at the MCU and at the CCU. My next step was going to be to remove the motor and check my magnet brushes, etc. I'm so happy I decided to watch this video. Hopefully, my comment my help others with the F06 F6 Drive Motor Tachometer Error. Thank you so much. P.S. vote my comment up if this resonates with you F06ers.

[@pennylockhart2504]

MenesesInc Hi, how do you fix the f6 error code?

[@MenesesInc]

After troubleshooting and troubleshooting, even attempting to change a transistor in the MCU, I decided to just buy a used MCU on eBay. Make sure you take out the MCU, take pictures of the "motherboard" both sides. I bought something on eBay with perhaps a revision or 2 a head of what I had? I did not buy a motor as I also watched a couple of videos where they destroy the washer buy placing objects or bricks inside of it and max out the power. At the end of all that abuse, the motor just didn't stop going. So, with that, I took a gamble and focused on the MCU. I bought mine from "Doctor-fridge" on eBay for ~$37. He had very detailed pictures and his communication with me, help me to decide on his used part. Hope this helps everyone with this horrible code of no return, F06.

[@Capsystech]

Great info, MCU wire harness became disconnected at main control. thanks for the video post!

[@jonathandavila5126]

Thank you! This was it for me except the issue was with the bottom motor. There was a little uniform corrosion and I was able to clean off that and get it working.

[@Chrisbuildsbadassfences]

thanks so much!! took my cover off, looked down and BAM. plug wasn't in all the way. so I plugged it in and everything is fine. thanks again! :)

[@cchambers30]

Better advice than most for in hard problems.

[@constitutionalrn4458]

Adjusting the tines worked for me! Thanks for the video!!!

[@jlitgaming3760]

This helped me so much right now thanks for the video

[@evelynbradley1622]

Instead of soldering first try taking a pencil eraser and rub the contacts. That usually fixes oxidation problem. saves you the expense of buying a soldering gun and supplies if it works. Most of us have old pencil erasers lying around. Make sure eraser is clean (pink) and not dirtied by lead.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

+Evelyn Bradley That's an old Navy trick and works in some applications. The problem here was that the tines on the edge connector where not making tight contact with the pads. Pencil eraser wouldn't help in this case due to this loose connection. But building up the pads with solder restored that tight connection and fixed the problem.

[@garysmith9015]

Its 2020 and I'm late to this but had to send a thank you for this video. My kenmore elite got a f11 code this year. I removed the top cover and checked the connector for the motor. It was strange that all of the connectors has a clip that holds connectors in place except for the connector that sends the signal to the motor. The clip was either snapped or was designed to work out over time ??? It was a clean break?? But problem solved, I used a small piece of sponge material hold the connector in place. Didn't want to use tape or metal of any kind . thanks again!

[@grsu3427]

Great video - big thumbs up as bending the clips fixed my F11 code and maybe the F-DL code too.

[@spheder]

Do I clean and tighten both CCU AND MCU connections? You seem to have just done the upper CCU connection and board.

[@SrinivasNarahari]

Due to vibrations, over time there will be minute cracks in solder near the relays. Using a soldering gun, I had to touch up all the relays joints underneath the board and that fixed F11 errors. Previously I had to tap on the CCU top to get past the F11 codes.

[@BillBennettASC]

I tried adding solder to the contacts for the serial connector of the CCU, and that didn't solve my problem. I had this set of symptoms: I was getting the F-11 Code when the washer first started filling the water, and before the drum started turning, in a regular washing cycle. When I ran the diagnostic test, I would get the F-11 code at the C:03 step, and the drum would not move. I ordered a new Motor Control Unit (MCU) and swapped it out, and the washer works properly now. The MCU is in the bottom of the machine, on the left side. There are a couple of other videos here on KZbin that describe how to remove and replace the MCU.

[@Witless_Dragon]

At first I was getting an F11 error. After some research I checked the grounding connection on the front panel and found the plastic tab bent. I fixed that and my machine worked fine for a week. When my hubby went to do a load he got the same F11 error. I reset the washer adjusted the machine because it was vibrating more than before I had moved it and it worked for 2 loads. I then got the same F11 but also an F28. After reviewing your video I did the diagnostic and it worked, but that showed error codes 11, F28 and now an F29. I manually unlocked the door and checked the 3-wire connection on the smaller computer panel on the top right of the machine. I was unable to reach the larger control unit at the bottom back of the machine. Fingers crossed that a proper load works. PS, my machine is a Kenmore he2plus that is now 13 years old. Any suggests are appreciated!

[@fritzhummel1894]

Nice repair.good trick, has worked for me and my customers...thanx

[@JustinKada]

I appreciate the video. I found the wire harness connector to the CCU damaged. I was wondering if you knew where to get that 3 wire pigtail?

[@abnad2827]

Excellent, explication claires et très utile. Bonjour, Mon lave vaisselle whirlpool démarre et se met en défaut au bout de 3 à 4 minutes avec code erreur F11. J'ai nettoyé le capteur optique mais le défaut persiste malgré le reset. Merci de me donner votre avis sur l'origine possible de la panne. CORDIALEMENT Merci

[@paulwebendorfer5627]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I have found your videos to be very helpful.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Paul Webendorfer Thanks for the encouraging feedback, Paul!

[@jaswyoung]

another point of failure I just identified is at the breaker points inside the door lock. if you remove the lock and have the patience to split the case, you can give the points a quick file and works like new...the switch is easy to remove with the top off, so if you've cleaned up the connections to the MB, this is just an extra few minutes.

[@jaysigel9837]

The first thing you do before you attempt doing this yourself is to unplug the washing machine. And that alone may be the fix. We have an old Duet. We were encountering the F11 error with increasing frequency. Repair parts for our machine are unavailable and even if they were available, replacement would not be cost-effective. I told this to my son who has an even older Duet and had experienced similar error codes with his machine. He said the fix is to just unplug the machine about once a month. Well, naturally, I thought that was stupid, but I figured that it was worth a try. Since doing that, we have not encountered any error codes.The cost of this "repair" is zero and the effort is near zero.

[@351cleavland]

Thanks! I am broke this X-mas so this was sooooooo appreciated!!! : D

[@bmss4932]

Awsome video buddy, Thank you very much.

[@ChrisPageHome]

Easy to follow video, thanks. Our washer still gets as far as C:01 in the diagnostic, then water starts running out onto the floor. What do you think, MCU fried, or something else?

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Thanks for watching and for your feedback!

[@jayjaydizzle1209]

Great video. I'd love to see a video of your techniques involved in adding solder to the worn pads on the control board!

[@AppliantologyOrg]

The proper tool is an electric pencil-type soldering iron and rosin core solder. Search around KZbin for videos on soldering techniques on electronic circuit boards and you'll find a ton of them. I didn't bother showing that in this video because there are already so many other videos that do.

[@jayjaydizzle1209]

SamuraiRepairman Yes, many other videos, but none with Samurai-Style!

[@jayjaydizzle1209]

JayJayDizzle HY-YAAAH!

[@seanobrien3133]

Thank you. Spot on fix, thank you for your help. Keep up the good work

[@SeanBrennan007]

Nice video, Thank you for taking the time.

[@jeffshern]

I first just tried to tighten the tines to see if that would fly... (got a F11 error in the first 30 seconds) I ended up bending a pin... I think I straightened it out enough.. then I ran another quick-wash cycle and had a F11 the last minute... normally I'd just let that fly, but I figured it's not really fixed, so I dug out my old soldering iron. One of the soldering joints on one of the components looked a little iffy.. so I soldered it, and reinforced where the motor hooks on. I ran 2 quick washes and 1 sanitary wash, no errors yet.. Still crossing my fingers. I've had to fix several problems on this washer/dryer pair. A lot of the problems are caused by vibrations, especially if they are stacked on top of each other.

[@jeffshern]

+javajeff Just a follow up, haven't had any problems in 3 weeks of doing this! Thanks for the help.

[@gproicou]

perfect! just trouble shot and fixed...harness disconnected from MCU...hmmm how did that happen behind a closed door on the MCU?? thanks!!

[@ricksaran7694]

Nice job

[@elijahhannigan4302]

thanks for sharing your knowledge .

[@popsmccartney435]

Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@davidz8286]

Keep getting f11 errors. Ran diagnostic program, fine. Checked blue wires between ccu and mcu, and narrowed prongs. Still getting f11. Ideas?

[@jessewoody5772]

Thanks for dropping knowledge the homeowner can use. Is it merely because of vibration that the connection only fails at the CCU end of the harness? Or does the MCU end sometimes need repaired too?

[@austincrawford1559]

Man i hope u check ur comments ur a damn champion. This videos saved me so much time i wish i had found it 3 months ago haha

[@11ccarp]

We've dealt with the F11 error code for over a year now. Your video was very helpful, thank you! I did have one question, what is this little white piece at the end of the blue cords (with the tines) called so I can see if we can order it? Because just one of the tines broke off and they don't make this model (let alone) for this washer anymore, is there anyway we can fix this ourselves? Maybe soldering where the tine was?

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Sounds like you broke off the latch clip on the edge connector for the wire harness. You still be able to buy the replacement wire harness for this machine.

[@11ccarp]

SamuraiRepairman Thanks for your input and help! So I've been looking and looking and I can't seem to find a replacement wire harness for this machine... All I need is a new 3-blue-wire harness that runs from the CCU to the MCU... do you know a part number or where I can locate this part?

[@slipnorris5882]

Cori Carpenter If you have any luck let me know, because one of the tine broke off on my harness conector that goes to the CCU. I'm also looking for the 3 blue wire harness

[@slipnorris5882]

I wonder if I could just cut off the end connector and solder each wire directly to the CCU, if that would work. I would prefer though that 3 blue wire harness

[@travisblount6089]

Thanks for video, my machine works great now!

[@paulmilnes3563]

Wow! great information. Did just what you suggested. Saved myself tons of money. My appliance repair guy wanted to sell me a Good used like new machine. Merry Xmas to me! now I can buy my honey some great stuff!!

[@Snimbudio]

So, what do you do if the diagnostic won't run?

[@buzzydj]

Where can I buy that blue cable from that connects to the washer motor? Mines is broken on one end due to aging.

[@jefflayman2841]

+1, great video, for a poor man in a rich mans world.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

Domo, Jeff!

[@gaWalt]

I had a missing tine on the connector that throws that F11 error code. I soldered the wires directly to the board but I'm still getting an F11 error. What could cause that and is there some sort of reset that I need or can do to clear the F11 message? Thanks, Gary

[@grahammckinnon4138]

Thanks!

[@benzacct1]

How do I run the diagnostics test.

[@thatsmescottyb]

I pulled out the 3 blue wires from the harness by accident, what’s the best way to figure out the order? The mcu the bottom board

[@billzziv6859]

So my Kenmore has been flashing the F11 code at the end of the wash cycle. I ran the diagnostics code, and it went through it without a problem. Would you suggest looking at the connection first?

[@arielaine216]

Great video! I followed everything but F11 is back. I purchased a new CCU Board and connected all harness but all I get is 0:00 on my display and control buttons wouldn't work. Is there a reset button I can press after installing a new board to make it work again? Please help, I called for a specialist and it's going to cost me over $250.+ just to get an appointment and labor. Thinking of getting a brand new washer.

[@AppliantologyOrg]

There's no reset button. Double check all your wire harness connectors to make sure they're all the way in. Sounds like one of your wire harnesses isn't seated all the way.